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PROFESSOR  H.  I.  BLITS' 

METHODS  OF 

CANNING  FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES 

BY   HOT   AIR  AND  STEAM 

AND 

BERRIE. 

BY  THE   COMPOUNDING  OF  SYRUPS 


THE  CRYSTALLIZING  AND  CANDYING  OF  FRUITS 

ETC.,  ETC.,  ETC. 


TlBUtb  IRew  BDftfon  anfc  Supplement 


PRICE,   THRKE    DOLLARS 


CANNING  METHODS  PATENTED  A.D.  1888 
COPYRIGHTED  1890,  BY  H.  I.  BLITS.     ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED 

ON    ACCOUNT  OF  CONSTANT  TRAVBLJNG,   ADDRESS   PROF.  H.  I.  BLITS,    POST   OFFICE,  NEW   YORK 


FOR  INDEX,  SEE  BACK  OF  BOOK 


TESTIMONIALS 


THE  MYSTERIES  OF  CANNING  AND  PRESERVING  BY  THE 
LATEST  AND  MOST  IMPROVED  METHODS 


A  very  tempting  array  of  glass  jars,  filled  with  deliriously  preserved  fruits, 
and  a  gentleman—  Professor  Blits  —  occupied  the  stage  of  the  Odeon  yesterday 
afternoon,  and  an  audience  of  nearly  six  hundred  of  the  prominent  ladies  of 
Cincinnati  listened  enraptured  to  his  dissertation  on  '  '  Preserving  Fruits  and 
Canning  Vegetables  by  Hot  Air  and  Steam,  and  the  Compounding  of  Syrups 
for  Preserving  Berries,  and  Crystallizing  Fruits."  The  samples  exhibited  were 
the  perfection  of  preserving,  and  the  results  obtained  by  many  ladies  who  had 
already  tried  some  of  his  methods,  and  who  had  fruits  and  vegetables  on  exhi- 
bition, were  very  flattering.  His  presentation  of  the  subject  was  interesting, 
and  Professor  Blits  is  a  recognized  authority  in  this  country  on  the  art  of 
canning  fruits  and  vegetables.  The  impression  made  was  so  favorable  that  all 
the  ladies  present  paid  the  three  dollars  demanded  for  the  book  of  instructions, 
which  contained  all  the  formulas  and  many  other  valuable  and  scientific  methods. 
Professor  Blits's  methods  are  copyrighted  and  patented,  and  no  person  has  the 
right  to  use  them  without  permission.  The  methods  are  very  simple  and  prac- 
tical ;  Mrs.  E.  K.  Porter,  of  Newport,  Ky.,  testifying  that  no  methods  of  modern 
times  equal  them  for  their  simplicity,  the  curtailing  of  time,  and  keeping  the 
fruits  whole  and  natural.  —  From  The  Cincinnati  Commercial,  April,  1090. 


ALBANY,  N.  Y.,  September  g(A,  1890. 

This  is  to  certify  that  I  have  used  the  same  methods  as  taught  by  Professor 
Blits  for  canning  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  pronounce  them  far  superior  to 
any  I  have  ever  used.  They  keep  fruits  and  vegetables  more  natural,  and 
save  half  the  work. 

198   LARK  STREET.  Miss  ANNIE    CRAIG. 

4- 

BROOKLYN,  October  z6f/i,  1890. 

This  is  to  certify  that  for  some  years  I  have  used  Professor  Blits's  "  Hot 
Air  and  Steaming"  methods  for  canning  and  preserving  fruits  and  vegetables, 
and  can  endorse  them  in  the  highest  terms,  and  cheerfully  recommend  them 
to  all  ladies  as  they  are  simple  and  useful,  being  based  upon  practical  and 
common-sense  ideas.  I  have  friends  that  are  using  these  methods,  and  from 
personal  knowledge  can  say  they  are  as  satisfactory  to  them  as  they  are  to 
myself. 

571   PUTNAM  AVENUE.  MRS.  JOHN    KING. 


PREKACB. 


It  is  quite  within  modern  times  that,  by  observation  and  ex- 
perience, mankind  has  become  aware  of  the  independence  of  all 
inventions,  and  that  upon  our  ability  to  improve  the  conditions  in 
which  we  are  placed  can  we  alone  depend  upon  our  future  prog- 
ress, the  curtailing  of  time  and  the  saving  of  labor.  And  so,  in 
presenting  my  inventions  and  improvements  in  the  methods  of 
Canning  Fruits  and  Vegetables  to  the  public,  I  desire  their  kind 
indulgence,  and  ask  them  to  set  aside  the  prejudice  or  skepti- 
cism which  in  all  ages  and  times  has  been  the  great  obstacle  that 
an  inventor  had  to  contend  against,  while  I  admit  that  the  public 
has  been  imposed  upon  at  various  times  by  so-called  inventions 
which  were  to  perform  wonders  to  lessen  the  labor  of  house- 
keepers, but  which  upon  practical  test  proved  worthless,  inas- 
much that  the  methods  employed  either  required  the  use  of 
preparations,  acids  or  other  foreign  substances,  which,  while  they 
may  have  kept  the  fruits,  destroyed  their  flavor;  but  by  my  im- 
proved methods,  no  preparations,  acids  or  machinery  are  required. 
The  methods  embodied  in  my  inventions  are  based  upon  scien- 
tific principles,  upon  the  law  of  impenetrability.  Two  bodies 
cannot  occupy  the  same  space  at  the  same  time;  therefore,  I 
simply  use  steam  or  hot  air  as  an  agent  to  expel  the  cold  air ; 


2  Preface. 

and  while  I  also  admit  that  this  principle  has  been  employed 
since  the  art  of  canning  was  first  discovered,  it  has  been  used  in 
a  manner  requiring  more  time,  expense  and  labor.  By  my  im- 
provements and  inventions  the  great  necessity  of  simplifying  and 
curtailing  the  time  and  labor  has  been  solved,  conferring  a  great 
boon  and  blessing  upon  the  thousands  of  canners  and  house- 
keepers throughout  the  land  who  have  adopted  my  methods. 

Then,  again,  I  wish  to  call  the  attention  of  housekeepers  to 
the  fact  that  it  has  been  an  utter  impossibility  for  them  to  can 
corn  and  vegetables,  which  by  my  method  is  simple  and  practical, 
and  keeps  them  perfectly  natural — the  secret  being  simply  in 
using  the  steam  so  as  to  exhaust  the  air,  and  destroy  a  certain 
amount  of  carbonic  acid  gas  existing  in  same  : 

The  canning  of  tomatoes,  sliced  or  whole,  in  glass  jars,  by  hot 
air,  and  also  steaming  them  so  as  to  exhaust  the  air  and  destroy 
a  certain  amount  of  acid,  keeping  them  more  whole  and  natural 
in  flavor,  and  doing  away  with  the  old  methods  of  stewing  and 
cooking  them  to  pieces  : 

Also  to  my  great  improvement  of  keeping  strawberries  whole 
and  natural  by  simply  compounding  a  syrup  to  can  them  with, 
instead  of  stewing  or  boiling  them,  which  destroys  their  natural 
flavor  and  shape. 

In  concluding  my  remarks,  I  wish  to  say  to  experienced 
housekeepers  that,  while  there  may  be  some  information  herein 
given  that  they  are  already  familiar  with,  through  practical  expe- 
rience of  their  own  or  obtained  through  other  sources,  they  must 
remember,  for  the  sake  of  inexperienced  housekeepers,  I  am  com- 
pelled to  commence  with  the  fundamental  principles  of  canning, 


Preface.  3 

which  requires  me  to  give  many  little  practical  hints  and  details 
that  otherwise  I  would  omit. 

Also,  in  using  the  boiler  for  steaming  fruits,  tomatoes  and 
vegetables,  which  embodies  the  old  principle  of  canning,  I  cau- 
tion every  one,  unless  you  use  my  improved  methods  of  applying 
the  steam,  you  will  meet  with  no  success.  Hoping  members  will 
give  these  methods  a  fair  trial,  I  remain, 

Respectfully, 

H.  I.  BLITS. 

P.  S. — On  account  of  continuous  traveling,  address  letters  to 
General  Delivery,  New  York,  and  they  will  be  forwarded  to  me. 


Methods  patented  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  by  H.  I.  BLITS,  in  the  year  A.D.  1888. 

As  members  have  all  pledged  themselves  to  secrecy,  they  will  remember  not  to  circulate  or 
publish,  or  use  for  business  purposes,  under  penalty  of  the  law.  Remember,  my  methods  are  copy- 
righted and  patented. 


The  Proper  Time  to  Can  Fruits  and  Vegetables  as  they 
Come  in  their  Season. 


Cherries  (the  Ox  Heart  are  the  best) From  June  15th  to  July  ist. 

Currants  and  Strawberries June  loth  to  July  ist. 

Raspberries July  ist  to  July  25th. 

Blueberries July  ist  to  Aug.  5th. 

Blackberries , July  isth  to  Aug.  25th. 

Pineapples  (Sugar  Loaf  are  the  best  >  over-ripe  )  M      joth  tQ  _    igt 
will  not  answer. ) 

Peaches  (the  late  Crawfords  are  the  best) Aug.  2oth  to  Oct.  5th. 

Pears Aug.  20th  to  Oct.  i5th. 

Apricots  and  Plums Aug.  loth  to  Sept.  loth. 

Apples  (the  Pippin  are  the  best) Oct.  2oth  to  Nov.  2oth. 

Quinces Sept.  zoth  to  Oct.  25th. 

Asparagus  (the   best  for  canning  purposes  is  )  M          h  tQ  ,,    igt 
grown  in  New  Jersey) [ 

Peas May  25th  to  July  ist. 

Tomatoes Aug.  i5th  to  Oct.  ist. 

Corn Aug.  i5th  to  Oct.  i5th. 

Beans Sept.  2oth  to  Oct.  2oth. 

Lima  Beans Aug.  2oth  to  Oct.  1 5th. 

Rhubarb May  i5th  to  July  ist. 

Cauliflower. Sept  i5th  to  Oct.  25th. 


Fruits  or  vegetables  must  never  be  canned  when  speckled  or  frost- 
bitten, and  should  be  always  kept  in  the  dark  and  at  a  temperature  of 
from  45  to  65  degrees.  Tomatoes,  strawberries  and  vegetables  should 
be  wrapped  in  brown  paper. 


INTRODUCTORY. 


Fruits  and  their  Nutritive  Yalue. 

Two  of  the  most  important  and  wholesome  articles  of  food 
used  by  the  human  race  are  Fruits  and  Vegetables;  and  in  this 
country,  where  it  is  impossible  to  have  fresh  fruit  and  vegetables 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  it  devolves  upon  the  housekeeper  at 
certain  times  of  the  year  to  can  them  by  the  simplest  and  best 
method,  so  as  to  retain  their  natural  form  and  flavor.  There  is 
no  article  of  diet  that  nature  so  abundantly  provides,  and  none 
that  gratifies  our  appetites  better. 

Fruits  in  their  natural  or  preserved  state  should  be  served 
daily,  for  when  in  good  condition  they  are  a  healthful  article  of 
diet,  as  they  supply  a  variety  of  acids  which  invigorate  the  sys- 
tem and  keep  the  blood  in  good  condition,  which  is  a  vital 
necessity.  They  also  aid  digestion,  and  lessen  the  desire  for 
alcoholic  stimulants.  It  is  conceded  by  our  most  eminent  phy- 
sicians that  in  liver  and  kidney  affections,  rheumatism  and  gout, 
the  use  of  fruits  judiciously  is  very  beneficial. 

Fruits  should  begin  the  meal,  as  they  are  then  more  easily 
digested  and  assist  in  the  digestion  of  other  foods,  as  the  fruit 
stimulates  the  flow  of  the  digestive  juices. 

Fruits  are  divided,  for  convenience'  sake,  into  seven  different 


6  Introductory. 

groups:  1st.  The  pomaceous  fruits,  including  the  apple,  pear, 
quince,  crab  apple,  pineapple,  etc.  2d.  The  drupaceous  fruits: 
those  provided  with  a  hard  stone,  surrounded  by  a  fleshy  pulp, 
as  the  peach,  apricot,  plum,  cherry,  olive  and  date.  3d.  The 
orange  or  citron  group,  including  the  lemon,  lime,  orange,  grape 
fruit,  pomegranate,  etc.  4th.  The  baccate  group,  including  the 
gooseberry,  currant,  whortleberry,  blueberry,  grape,  cranberry  > 
etc.  5th.  The  arterio  group,  which  includes  strawberries,  black- 
berries, raspberries  and  dewberries.  6th.  The  fig  group,  /th. 
The  gourd  group,  comprising  the  watermelon,  muskmelon,  can- 
taloupe, etc. 

This  takes  in  most  of  our  native  fruits,  and  fruits  that  we  are 
familiar  with. 

Aside  from  the  skins  and  seeds,  fruits  are  divided  into  two 
parts :  The  cellulose  structure  containing  the  juice,  and  the 
juice  itself.  The  latter  is  water,  with  a  small  proportion  of  fruit 
sugar  and  acids.  Some  of  the  acids  are  free,  and  some  combined 
with  lime  and  potash  in  the  form  of  acid  salts.  They  are  termed 
citric,  tartaric,  mallic  and  pectic  acids. 

Unripe  fruits  contain  starch,  which,  as  it  ripens,  is  changed 
into  sugar  and  a  certain  proportion  of  tartaric  acid,  which  gives 
them  that  tart  and  sour  taste.  As  raw  starch  in  any  form  is  in- 
digestible, therefore  unripe  fruit  should  not  be  eaten  unless  well 
cooked. 

Fruits  taken  at  seasonable  times  and  in  the  right  proportion, 
either  alone  or  with  other  proper  foods,  gives  us  a  very  healthful 
article  of  diet,  but  when  combined  with  fats  or  meats  are  liable 
to  be  injurious. 


Introductory.  7 

Over-ripe,  stale  or  partially  decayed  fruits  and  vegetables 
should  never  be  used,  for  it  has  been  proven  by  our  greatest 
scientists  that  they  contain  thousands  of  germs  or  bacteria  which, 
when  introduced  into  the  system,  are  the  cause  of  much  sickness; 
and  expert  canners  and  good  housekeepers  will  never  can  fruits 
or  vegetables  that  are  in  that  condition. 

Fruits  and  vegetables,  before  eating  or  using  for  canning  pur- 
poses, should  be  well  washed,  especially  those  which  grow  on  or 
near  the  ground,  as  they  are  liable  to  be  covered  with  a  danger- 
ous bacteria  which  might  cause  typhoid  fever,  diphtheria  or  other 
dangerous  sickness,  as  these  germs  exist  in  the  soil  or  the  mate- 
rial used  for  fertilizing  purposes. 

To  Keep  Fruit  Fresh. 

Apples,  pears,  quince  and  grapes  are  about  the  only  fruits 
that  can  be  kept  for  any  length  of  time  without  processing  them, 
for  as  soon  as  fruit  has  become  ripe,  a  gradual  breaking  down  of 
tissues  begins.  The  fruit  then  becomes  mellow,  and  very  shortly 
after  the  putrefactive  state  begins  and  the  fruit  rots  rapidly.  But 
the  late  varieties  of  apples,  pears,  quince  and  grapes,  by  exercis- 
ing care  and  using  the  following  directions,  can  be  kept  for  some 
time: 

1st.  Allow  fruit  to  remain  on  tree  or  vine  as  long  as  possible. 
2d.  Gather  or  pick  the  fruit  on  a  dry,  cool  day,  when  there  is  no 
frost  or  dew  on  the  ground.  3d.  In  picking  fruits,  handle  them 
with  care,  so  as  not  to  bruise  same.  4th.  Carefully  sort  the  dif- 
ferent varieties,  keeping  each  separate,  and  leave  out  the  soft  and 
mellow  fruit.  5th.  Select  good  barrels  or  large  pasteboard  boxes 
that  shoes  come  in  (I  mean  the  stock  boxes) ;  then  secure  dry 


8  Introductory. 

corkdust,  which  must  not  be  moist  or  old;  this  can  be  procured 
at  any  drug  store  where  they  buy  corks,  and  it  is  very  cheap. 
6th.  Then  spread  a  layer  of  corkdust  in  the  barrel  or  box,  and 
then  a  layer  of  the  fruits  mentioned ;  then  corkdust  and  then 
fruit,  and  so  on ;  do  not  allow  the  fruit  to  touch  each  other.  The 
very  top  layer  of  corkdust  should  be  about  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  thick;  then  secure  the  lid  of  the  barrel  or  box  tightly,  and 
keep  in  a  temperature  of  from  10  to  40  degrees  Fahrenheit. 
They  will  keep  for  some  months.  Do  not  use  sawdust,  as  it  gathers 
moisture  and  will  rot  the  fruit ;  but  corkdust  is  a  non-conductor 
of  heat  or  cold.  Do  not  dip  the  stems  of  grapes  in  wax,  as  it 
shrivels  them;  and  when  you  cut  them  from  the  vine  you  must 
leave  about  one  inch  of  the  stem.  Grapes  must  be  packed  as 
soon  as  cut  or  within  twelve  hours,  or  they  will  not  keep. 

The  ordinary  cellar  underneath  your  dwelling  is  not  a  proper 
place  to  keep  fruits  or  vegetables,  either  in  their  natural  or  pre- 
served state.  A  cool,  dry  attic  or  a  nice  storeroom  is  the  proper 
place,  well  ventilated.  In  most  cellars  it  is  either  too  warm  or 
damp.  It  has  been  verified  beyond  doubt  that  much  sickness 
has  been  caused  by  storing  fruits  and  vegetables  in  the  cellars 
under  dwelling-houses,  as  the  gases  generating  from  fruits  and 
vegetables  in  a  decayed  condition  are  very  poisonous.  A  store- 
house can  be  built  entirely  above  the  ground,  and  on  the  prin- 
ciple of  a  refrigerator.  Its  walls,  floor  and  ceiling  should  be 
double,  and  the  space  between  filled  with  sawdust  or  char- 
coal. Windows  should  have  shutters  to  shut  out  the  light.  The 
storeroom  should  also  have  some  heating  appliances,  so  as  to 
regulate  the  temperature  in  very  cold  weather. 


PATENTED  AND  IMPROVED  METHODS  FOR 
CANNING  FRUITS,  VEGETABLES,  ETC. 


To  Can  Gooseberries,  Rhubarb  and  Cranberries 
in  Cold  Water. 

Select  fruit  in  prime  condition,  not  over-ripe  or  green.  Place 
any  one  of  the  above  in  your  jars,  packed  as  tightly  as  possible 
to  first  screw  of  jar;  put  on  your  rubbers  (leaving  off  the  lids), 
submerge  jars  completely  under  water  that  has  been  first  boiled 
and  allowed  to  cool;  fasten  lids  tightly  as  possible  under  water, 
take  out  and  tighten  more  if  possible,  wrap  jars  in  brown  paper 
and  set  in  cool  place. 

When  using  above  fruit,  drain  off  the  water  and  make  syrup 
to  suit  the  taste.  It  is  always  best  to  filter  water,  after  boiling, 
through  a  piece  of  cheesecloth  before  processing  by  this  method. 

To  Can  Pineapples  in  their  own  Juice  Perfectly  Cold. 

Cut  up  pineapples  in  small  slices,  take  from  one  pound  to  one 
pound  and  a  quarter  of  granulated  sugar  to  a  pound  of  pineapple, 
and  place  in  layers  in  a  stone  crock  and  leave  over  night ;  then 
transfer  your  pineapple  to  glass  jars,  and  fill  jars  to  the  top  with 
its  own  juice  drawn  over  night,  and  seal  the  jars  air-tight.  Place 
in  a  dark  place.  For  a  delicious  flavor,  add  a  dessertspoonful  of 
sherry  or  brandy  to  each  quart  jar  before  sealing.  In  letting 
pineapples  stand  over  night,  put  in  a  cold  and  dark  place. 


io  Patented  and  Improved  Methods 

If  you  use  the  brandy  or  sherry,  as  directed,  you  need  not 
use  over  one  pound  of  sugar;  if  otherwise,  use  one  and  one- 
quarter  pound  of  sugar,  and  dip  paper  in  warm  alcohol  or  brandy ; 
place  a  piece  of  cotton  batting  on  paper  before  sealing  air-tight. 
In  doing  fruit  up  cold,  always  have  your  rubbers  and  lids  warm, 
so  they  will  tighten  better ;  also,  warm  your  jars  before  putting 
in  cold  fruit,  but  don't  have  them  hot,  and  pour  cold  syrup  in 
slowly,  so  as  not  to  break  the  jars. 

For  quince,  always  use  one  and  one-quarter  pound  of  sugar 
to  one  pound  of  quince,  and  steep  them  in  boiling  water  for  half 
an  hour  before  using  this  process,  covering  vessel  with  toweling. 

To  Can  Fruits,  Berries  and  Tomatoes  by  the  Hot  Air  Gen- 
erated from  Oven  of  Stove  or  Range. 

First  select  jars  that  are  perfect  in  every  respect,  and  rinse 
them  with  hot  water,  pouring  water  in  slowly  and  shaking  around 
inside  of  jar  gradually,  so  that  the  jar  won't  break;  then  pack  the 
raw  fruit  as  compactly  as  possible,  whole  or  cut,  in  the  jars  up  to 
the  first  rim  (working  down  fruit  on  each  side  with  a  silver-plated 
knife  or  handle  of  spoon — never  use  any  other  metal),  pour  in 
your  hot  syrup,  filling  jars  within  one  inch  of  the  top ;  place  tin 
covers  on  jars,  or  a  piece  of  sheet  iron,  or  a  flat  tin  with  a  weight 
on,  to  keep  cover  from  coming  off  (but  not  the  lid  of  jar,  as  it 
may  scorch);  then  place  jars  in  the  fruit  racks,  or  in  a  dripping- 
pan  with  a  little  warm  water  in  it,  and  a  cloth  at  the  bottom  to  set 
jars  on ;  don't  let  jars  touch  each  other ;  set  them  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven  and  almost  close  door  of  oven ;  then  set  on  full  heat  and 
leave  in  until  syrup  in  jars  beads  on  top ;  it  generally  takes  from 
fifteen  to  thirty  minutes,  according  to  the  condition  of  the  fruit — 
this  means  from  the  time  you  have  a  good  heat  in  your  oven. 
Make  syrup  as  follows :  For  sweet  fruit,  one-half  pound  of  sugar 
to  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water  to  a  quart  jar,  or  five  quarts 


for  Canning  Fruits,  Vegetables,  etc.  II 

of  water  to  six  pounds  of  sugar  to  a  dozen  jars ;  for  very  sour 
fruit,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pint  of  water,  or 
six  quarts  of  water  to  nine  pounds  of  sugar  to  a  dozen  quart  jars; 
let  syrup  come  to  a  simmer.  After  leaving  fruit  in  oven  as  de- 
scribed above,  take  out  the  jars  and  pan  from  oven,  leaving  the 
jars  in  the  pan,  and  pour  boiling  syrup  quickly  over  the  fruit  in 
jars;  to  fill  up  the  jars,  work  down  on  each  side  with  a  silver- 
plated  knife  and  seal  jars  air-tight;  put  fruit  in  a  dark  place,  and 
in  a  room  with  temperature  from  forty- five  to  seventy  degrees. 
One  coffee-cup  full  of  sugar  is  a  half  pound.  To  temper  jars  be- 
fore placing  them  in  an  oven,  allow  medium  hot  water  to  run  on 
the  outside  of  jar  slowly  after  fruit  is  in  it  for  about  a  minute.  It 
is  always  best  to  boil  your  empty  jars  before  canning  by  allowing 
them  to  heat  up  gradually.  If  the  oven  is  very  hot,  don't  fasten 
the  door  entirely.  A  good  way  to  seal  jars  or  bottles  is  to  get  a 
bladder  and  fit  it  snugly  over  the  mouth  and  sides  of  the  jars  and 
seal  tightly  by  using  sealing-wax  or  the  white  of  an  egg  or  white 
wax,  or  you  can  put  a  cork  into  bottles  and  seal  with  sealing- 
wax,  and  after  it  dries,  if  you  tie  three  folds  of  cotton  batting 
around,  it  will  surely  be  air-tight.  When  pouring  your  syrup 
over  the  last  time,  overflow  jars  so  as  to  overflow  the  air  bubbles. 
You  can  use  more  or  less  sugar  to  make  syrup.  It  is  best  to  use 
a  large  pan  to  set  jars  in,  instead  of  the  racks  in  using  this  method. 

To  Test  Jars  to  See  if  Air-Tight. 

After  jars  are  sealed  air-tight,  and  before  putting  them  away, 
wipe  dry  around  the  rubber  and  lid,  stand  them  upside  down  on 
white  paper  for  about  twenty  minutes,  and  if  any  liquid  comes 
out,  take  putty  and  fasten  all  around  the  rubber  and  lid/so  as  to 
made  it  air-tight;  be  careful  to  get  the  right  rubber  for  each  jar, 
and  don't  use  any  that  are  worked  down  on  the  side.  A  better 
way  is  to  tie  three  folds  of  cotton  batting  over  top  of  lid  of  jar. 


12  Patented  and  Improved  Methods 

To  Can  Pears  White  and  Whole,  with  Stems,  in  Rock 
Candy  Syrup. 

Take  skins  from  pears  carefully ;  put  pears,  with  stems,  in  jars 
compactly;  make  a  syrup  by  using  one-half  cup  of  pulverized 
rock  candy  to  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water ;  allow  to  come 
to  a  simmer  until  all  is  dissolved ;  pour  over  medium  hot  and 
process  twenty  minutes  in  oven,  as  described  in  fruits.  Take 
out,  fill  and  seal. 

The  most  Scientific  Method  of  Preventing  Mould  on  Fruits, 
Jellies,  Jams  and  other  Preserved  Matter. 

After  packing  the  fruit  in  the  jars  or  glasses,  heat  (not  boil) 
on  back  of  stove  some  brandy,  sherry  or  alcohol ;  dip  a  piece  of 
writing  or  manilla  paper  in  same,  and  place  on  inside  of  jar  to 
cover  fruit ;  then  put  a  thick  layer  of  cotton  batting  on  top  of 
paper  on  the  inside  of  jar,  and  seal  jars  as  tightly  as  possible ; 
this  will  prevent  the  germs  from  penetrating,  which  is  the  cause 
of  the  mould  or  fungus  growth.  Heat  the  spirits  gradually  by  a 
slow  fire,  until  it  is  just  warm. 

The  above  formula  is  also  good  to  use  for  chow-chow,  pickles, 
catsup,  chilli  and  other  sauces. 

To  Can  Tomatoes  by  the  Hot- Air  Process. 

Remove  the  skins  by  placing  them  in  a  wire  or  cane  basket  and 
plunging  same  in  boiling  water  for  a  minute,  and  then  in  cold  water 
for  a  minute;  then  take  skins  off  with  knife.  Pack  your  jars  as  com- 
pactly as  possible  with  whole  or  sliced  tomatoes  up  to  first  screw 
or  thread  of  jar ;  work  down  on  all  sides  with  silver-plated  knife 
to  let  out  the  air ;  then  place  in  the  pan  and  in  the  oven,  as  de- 
scribed in  Hot- Air  Process  for  Canning  Fruit;  leave  in  twenty- 


for  Canning  Fruits,  Vegetables,  etc.  13 

i 

five  to  thirty  minutes  from  time  you  have  a  good  fire,  or  until 

syrup  in  jars  commences  to  bead  rapidly ;  then  take  out  pan 
and  set  on  top  of  stove ;  take  out  one  jar  at  a  time,  fill  up  with 
boiling  tomatoes  and  juice  until  the  jar  is  full;  see  that  the 
juice  covers  the  tomatoes,  and  seal  jars  air-tight.  If  you  can 
tomatoes  with  skin  on,  add  tomato  juice  before  setting  them  in 
oven.  The  juice  is  made  by  stewing  some  tomatoes  and  strain- 
ing the  juice,  as  tomatoes  with  skins  on  will  not  make  sufficient 
juice  of  their  own.  You  can  add  from  one  to  two  level  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  salt  for  each  quart  jar.  Before  sealing  jars  air-tight,  as  you 
take  them  from  the  pan,  run  your  silver-plated  knife  down  on  all 
sides  to  let  out  the  air.  Wrap  jars  in  brown  paper,  and  put  them 
in  a  cool  place. 

To  Can  Without  Cooking  or  Stewing  Damson  Plums,  Sour 
Cherries,  Pie  Plant,  Sour  Grapes,  Gooseberries,  Currants 
and  Peaches. 

(The  above  are  the  acid  varieties,  and  no  sweet  fruit  will  keep 
by  this  method.) 

Make  a  syrup  of  one  pound  of  sugar  to  one  half  pint  of  water 
for  each  one  pound  of  the  above  acid  fruits.  Allow  syrup  to  come 
to  a  boil,  and  after  it  comes  to  a  good  boil  put  in  five  drops  of 
lemon  juice  (to  prevent  candying)  for  each  one  quart  of  syrup, 
then  leave  syrup  boil  for  ten  minutes  more — don't  stir  more  than 
necessary  to  prevent  it  from  burning.  While  syrup  is  boiling, 
take  any  of  the  above  metioned  fruits,  put  in  a  vessel  (agate  or 
porcelain),  pour  boiling  water  over  them  so  the  water  completely 
covers  them,  then  tie  two  or  three  thickness  of  toweling  over 
mouth  of  vessel  so  as  to  retain  the  heat  and  leave  in  water  ten 
minutes,  then  dip  fruit  into  the  hot  jars,  pour  over  the  boiling 
syrup  made  as  described,  and  seal  jars  air-tight,  and  leave  in  a 
cool,  dark  place,  or  wrap  jars  in  brown  paper.  When  you  take 


14  Patented  and  Improved  Methods 

fruit  from  the  vessel  of  hot  water  it  is  best  to  use  skimmer  and 
pack  the  fruit  in  jars  by  degrees,  pouring  over  syrup  gradually; 
in  that  way  you  can  pack  fruit  in  jars  nicer  and  tighter,  and  keep 
it  from  rising  to  the  top. 

The  Latest  Improyed  Method  of  Keeping  Strawberries  and 
Red  Raspberries  Whole  and  Natural. 

Owing  to  the  different  kind  of  berries  grown  in  the  different 
sections  of  this  country,  and  as  they  do  not  all  contain  the  same 
amount  of  acid,  so  as  to  keep  them  nicely  by  simply  using  a 
compound  syrup,  as  recommended  in  this  volume,  the  following 
formula  is  recommended  as  being  superior  to  any  method  now 
used  by  canners  and  housekeepers : 

First,  select  choice  berries  (wash  if  necessary).  To  every  one 
pound  of  granulated  sugar  pour  over  sufficient  water  to  moisten 
well  the  sugar;  allow  this  syrup  to  come  to  a  boil,  and  skim  off 
all  impurities.  After  syrup  comes  to  a  good  boil  drop  in  six 
drops  of  lemon  juice  and  allow  to  boil,  not  too  rapidly,  until 
syrup  hairs  or  strings.  To  that  proportion  of  syrup  take  one 
pound  of  nice  berries,  drop  into  the  syrup  and  allow  berries  to 
boil  slowly  for  five  minutes;  take  the  vessel  off  the  stove,  cover 
same  and  allow  to  stand  in  a  cool  place  (temperature  between  45 
and  75  degrees)  from  six  to  eight  hours.  Then  cleanse  your 
jars  with  hot  water,  and  fill  them  with  the  cold  berries  and 
syrup,  packing  jars  compactly  nearly  to  the  top ;  overflow  with 
syrup  and  seal  jars  air  tight. 

Allowing  berries  to  remain  in  the  syrup  the  time  specified 
hardens  them  and  retains  their  natural  flavor  and  state.  Of 
course  you  can  do  a  larger  quantity  at  a  time,  but  you  must  in- 
crease the  sugar,  water  and  berries  in  proportion.  It  is  best  not 
to  stir  syrup  after  it  boils,  and  by  placing  a  few  agate  marbles 
in  syrup  will  prevent  the  burning,  as  this  makes  an  automatic 


for  Canning  Fruits,   Vegetables ,  etc.  15 

stirrer.  To  prevent  syrup  from  candying  when  boiling  it  down, 
use  two- thirds  sugar  and  one-third  glucose;  this  is  a  sure  pre- 
ventive. 

Before  filling  the  jars  rinse  them  well  with  hot  water,  so  as  to 
take  out  all  impurities;  and  in  packing  the  berries  fill  jars  first 
about  one- quarter  full  of  berries,  then  work  down  well  on  all 
sides  with  a  silver-plated  knife  or  handle  of  spoon,  so  as  to  fill 
the  jars  compactly  and  let  out  the  air.  Keep  filling  jar  in  this 
manner  until  it  is  full,  and  see  that  the  syrup  covers  the  berries 
on  top.  Only  use  sufficient  water  to  dissolve  the  sugar,  and 
when  packing  the  berries  in  the  jar  be  careful  not  to  add  too 
much  syrup,  for  if  you  do  it  will  cause  them  to  rise  to  the  top. 
The  syrup  you  have  left  after  processing  the  berries  in  this  man- 
ner you  can  bottle  air-tight,  and  use  to  make  summer  drinks  or 
pudding  sauces.  This  syrup  being  heavy,  you  can  dilute  it  with 
water  when  using. 

If  you  have  trouble  with  jars  not  being  air-tight,  it  is  best  to 
dip  a  piece  of  writing  paper  in  warm  brandy  or  spirits,  and  place 
on  top  of  liquid,  and  then  place  a  layer  of  cotton  batting  on  the 
paper  before  sealing  the  jars  air-tight.  This  will  prevent  the 
berries  from  fermenting.  This  is  a  good  method  in  canning  all 
kinds  of  fruit  where  the  jar  or  rubbers  are  not  in  good  condition. 
It  is  best  to  renew  the  rubbers  each  year  if  they  are  not  in  good 
condition,  as  the  rubber  bands  commonly  sold  are  very  much 
adulterated.  It  is  best  in  making  heavy  syrups  for  canning  ber- 
ries to  use  two-thirds  sugar  and  one-third  glucose  for  each  pound 
of  berries.  This  prevents  syrup  from  candying. 

N.  B. — Berries  will  keep  all  the  better  if,  after  allowing  them 
to  boil  five  minutes,  the  syrup  is  drained  off  and  boiled  down 
about  eight  minutes  and  then  poured  over  the  berries,  and  all  is 
allowed  to  cool  as  described  on  page  14.  Never  can  cold  stor- 
age berries  or  berries  which  have  been  picked  over  24  hours. 


1 6  Patented  and  Improved  Methods 

To   Make   a   Heavy  Syrup  for   Keeping   Strawberries   and 

Raspberries. 

To  each  one  quart  of  syrup  made  as  described  in  strawberry, 
page  14,  dissolve  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  corn  starch  in  a 
little  cold  water.  Stir  this  solution  well  in  the  syrup  just  before 
taking  syrup  from  the  fire.  See  that  the  corn  starch  is  well  dis- 
solved. You  can  use  this  solution  for  canning  berries  when 
cooking  them  by  your  old  method,  but  do  not  use  it  for  canning 
berries  cold,  as  given  on  pages  14  and  15. 

^  General  Directions  of  Importance. 

Don't  stir  syrup  for  berries  or  fruit  after  it  boils,  and  shake  it 
as  little  as  possible,  as  it  will  sometimes  candy;  in  that  case,  add 
a  little  more  water,  stir  and  boil  it  over  again,  and  drop  in  a  small 
pinch  of  cream  of  tartar  to  every  pint  of  syrup ;  this  will  prevent 
it  candying.  When  pouring  syrup  in  jars,  hold  a  silver  spoon  in 
it  and  pour  over  quickly.  The  berries  you  have  left — that  you 
made  the  juice  from — use  for  jams,  preserves,  sauce,  pies,  etc. 
When  draining  off  the  syrup  from  berries,  don't  drain  off  the 
whole  of  it  or  they  will  taste  insipid.  To  every  pint  of  juice 
made  from  berries  add  one-half  pint  of  water  and  from  one-fourth 
to  one-half  pound  of  sugar ;  let  it  come  to  a  good  boil  and  seal 
air-tight  in  bottles.  This  makes  a  delicious  drink. 

By  placing  three  folds  of  cotton  batting  over  lids  of  bottles 
(after  they  have  the  corks  in)  will  make  them  air-tight ;  but  you 
must  tie  the  cotton  around  as  tightly  as  possible. 

When  berries  are  processed  by  the  old  methods  and  then  im- 
mediately placed  in  the  jars,  the  juices  of  the  berries  thin  the  syrup, 
thereby  causing  them  to  lose  their  color  and  rise  to  the  top;  they 
also  become  insipid  in  flavor.  By  processing  them  as  described 
on  page  14  this  is  avoided.  By  allowing  them  to  stand  the  spec- 
ified time  they  harden,  absorb  the  juices,  thereby  retaining  their 
natural  state  and  flavor. 


for  Canning  Fruits ',  Vegetables,  etc.  17 

Another  way  of  Canning  Strawberries,  Blackberries,  Rasp- 
berries and  other  Soft  Fruits. 

First  cleanse  your  berries,  and  to  every  one  pound  berries 
take  not  less  than  three-fourths  to  one  pound  of  granulated 
sugar ;  mix  this  in  layers,  viz.:  a  layer  of  berries,  then  a  layer 
of  sugar,  and  so  on,  in  a  stone  crock ;  set  crock  with  cover  on, 
in  cool  place,  and  allow  it  to  stand  over  night.  In  the  morning 
place  crock  on  back  of  stove  that  is  only  moderately  hot,  and  set 
on  gradual  heat,  moving  jars  gradually  front,  until  syrup  com- 
mences to  foam  over.  Then  skim  off  scum,  allow  berries  to 
heat  about  ten  minutes  longer ;  take  off  from  stove,  and  fill  your 
glass  jars  as  rapidly  as  possible,  allowing  syrup  to  overflow  jars, 
and  seal  air-tight  Don't  use  any  other  vessel  to  heat  in  except 
stone  crocks,  and  when  filling  jars  from  crocks,  set  crocks  on 
back  of  stove,  and  see  that  your  jars  are  hot  before  filling  them. 

To  Keep  Fruit  from  Fermenting  after  Using. 

After  using  part,  fill  up  balance  of  jar  with  medium  hot 
syrup,  made  from  sugar  and  water ;  screw  the  lid  half  way  on 
and  steam  about  ten  minutes  from  time  the  water  boils,  as  de- 
scribed in  the  steaming  of  fruits  or  hot  air  process,  then  seal  jars 
air-tight. 

The  Cold  Process  for  Keeping  Strawberries,  Raspberries  and 
Other  Berries ;  also  Grapes  and  Cherries. 

Make  a  syrup  by  mixing  sugar  and  water  as  described  on 
page  14  (strawberry  process),  and  boil  it  down  for  about  twenty 
minutes ;  while  it  is  tepid,  not  hot,  add  the  following  solution : 
dissolve  six  grains  of  salicylic  acid  in  two  ounces  of  glycerine ; 
then  add  this  solution  to  each  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  syrup, 


1 8  Patented  and  Improved  Methods 

which  will  be  enough  to  fill  one  quart  jar  of  berries.  It  is  per- 
fectly harmless — leaves  no  taste.  Put  the  syrup  over  berries  just 
before  it  cools,  as  by  this  process  it  is  not  necessary  to  put  the 
syrup  over  hot.  Pit  cherries  before  mixing  with  sugar ;  or  you 
can  make  the  syrup  for  grapes  or  cherries  with  one  half  of  a  pint 
of  water  to  one  pound  of  sugar  for  each  quart  jar;  boil  syrup 
down  as  described  for  berries  and  add  this  solution  when  syrup 
becomes  tepid. 

The  Rule  for  Boiling  Syrup. 

The  method  of  boiling  syrup  down  thick  so  as  to  prevent  it 
from  candying  is  as  follows :  After  syrup  comes  to  a  boil,  skim 
off  all  impurities ;  then  add  to  each  quart  of  syrup  six  or  seven 
drops  of  lemon  juice,  and  don't  stir  syrup  after  it  boils ;  it  is  best 
to  put  in  two  white  marbles,  or  for  a  large  quantity  of  syrup  four 
or  five  white  marbles ;  the  heat  will  keep  the  marbles  rolling 
and  prevent  the  syrup  from  burning  or  candying.  In  order  to 
avoid  the  granulation  on  the  sides  of  the  vessel  while  syrup  is 
boiling,  keep  vessel  covered  ;  the  vapor  not  being  able  to  escape 
condenses  and  washes  the  sides  of  the  vessel  and  prevents  the 
granulation. 

How  to  Make  Jars  Air-Tight  with  Cotton  Batting. 

Jars,  bottles  or  crocks — if  you  desire  to  have  them  air-tight. 
Place  three  folds  of  cotton  batting  over  the  tops  of  lids  or  fasten- 
ings, let  batting  extend  over  one  inch  down  the  outside  of  neck 
of  bottle  or  jar  and  tie  it  tightly,  but  you  must  do  this  while  jar  is 
hot,  and  just  after  fastening  on  your  covers  or  stoppers. 

To  Prevent  Cider  Liquids  Souring  and  Fermenting. 

Cleanse  your  casks  with  warm  water ;  then  bore  a  hole  about 
half  an  inch  in  diameter,  about  two  inches  from  top  of  barrel ; 


for  Canning  Fntits,  Vegetables,  etc.  19 

in  this  hole  fix  a  tin  tube  air-tight,  allowing  it  to  project  out 
about  three  inches,  and  to  this  tube  attach  a  rubber  tube,  air- 
tight, making  the  rubber  tube  long  enough  to  fall  into  a  basin  of 
water  placed  on  the  outside  at  bottom  of  barrel ;  pour  in  your 
liquid  until  about  three-fourths  full,  and  every  day  (especially  if 
the  cider  or  vinegar  is  new),  pour  in  an  extra  gallon  of  same  for 
two  or  three  days,  until  liquids  have  quit  fermenting;  then  make 
casks  air-tight,  leaving  the  tube  in  the  water  as  long  as  the  liquid 
is  in  the  barrel,  changing  water  every  two  weeks.  Before  draw- 
ing liquid,  bore  a  small  hole  on  top  of  barrel.  When  barrel  is 
dry,  before  putting  in  liquids,  fumigate  barrel  with  vapor  of  brim- 
stone for  about  ten  minutes.  I  would  recommend  using  two 
ounces  salicylic  acid  to  each  barrel. 


Ladies,  Bead  this  Carefully. 

In  introducing  my  improved  methods  of  canning  fruits,  berries, 
tomatoes  and  vegetables  by  steaming  in  boiler  of  water,  I  know 
many  of  my  patrons  will  remark  :  oh !  that  is  similar  to  the  old-fash- 
ioned way  we  used  to  do  it  years  ago,  and  we  did  not  like  it,  and 
it  was  not  always  successful.  Now,  while  I  admit  that  the  princi- 
ple of  applying  the  steam  is  the  same,  the  method  is  yet  so  dif- 
ferent that,  unless  you  follow  my  rules  exactly,  you  will  not  meet 
with  success.  Simply  placing  jars  in  boiler  of  water  and  steam- 
ing them  the  old-fashioned  way  may  keep  fruit,  but,  as  for  to- 
matoes and  all  kinds  of  vegetables,  unless  the  jars  are  submerged 
as  described,  and  the  time  used,  as  given,  they  will  not  keep — 
as  a  certain  amount  of  acid  must  be  destroyed  in  the  tomatoes, 
and  in  corn  and  other  vegetables  a  certain  amount  of  carbonic 
acid  gas.  Another  advantage,  by  submerging  them — as  de- 
scribed :  there  is  not  so  much  shrinkage  to  take  place,  you  do 
not  need  to  fill  from  one  jar  to  another — as  evaporation  cannot 


20 

take  place — the  fruits  and  vegetables  are  more  whole  and  natural 
in  taste,  and  when  you  lift  them  out  the  last  time,  the  jar  being 
air-tight,  the  air  has  not  the  chance  to  rush  back  as  in  the  old 
method,  which  causes  so  much  fermentation.  Never  place  jars 
on  the  surface  of  vessel  or  plain  board  or  tin  ;  use  a  perforated 
board  or  tin,  or  better  still  and  which  I  deem  it  important  for 
every  housekeeper  to  have,  the  fruit  rack,  which  I  shall  describe, 
and  have  your  tinner  make  them  for  you ;  he  should  not  charge 
over  $1.75  per  dozen  or  15  cents  apiece ;  each  rack  holds  a  jar. 

Fruit  Back. 

Make  a  band  of  tin  of  two  or  three  thicknesses  and  one  inch 
in  depth  when  hemmed  or  wired,  and  four  and  one-half  inches 
in  diameter ;  then  on  each  side  of  rim  rivet  on  a  heavy  strip  of 
tin,  making  strips  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  width,  when  wired 
or  hemmed,  and  seven  inches  in  length  from  top  of  rim ;  this  is 
intended  for  the  handle  ;  make  handle  all  of  one  piece  of  tin,  so  you 
can  bend  it  on  top,  and  have  a  place  to  take  hold  of  to  lift  the 
racks.  Then  to  the  rim  rivit  on  four  legs  about  three  and  one- 
half  inches  in  length  trom  bottom  of  rim ;  have  bottom  of  legs 
bent  outward  about  one-half  inch,  so  they  will  set  firm,  and  have 
legs  made  of  tin  of  two  or  three  thicknesses  and  about  one-half 
inch  in  width  when  hemmed.  Now  if  jar  was  set  in  the  rim  it 
would  fall  through  unless  it  had  something  to  rest  on  ;  so  about 
one  inch  from  bottom  of  legs  rivet  on  two  three-quarter-inch 
strips,  each  strip  crossing  each  other  in  the  form  of  X  and  riveted 
on  legs  for  the  jars  to  rest  on.  The  idea  is  to  set  jar  with  fruit 
in  the  rack,  when  they  are  steaming,  so  they  will  not  roll 
around  and  so  you  can  lift  them  out  when  through.  The  handle 
must  be  riveted  so  it  is  stationary,  and  no  solder  must  be  used 
in  the  fastening.  The  whole  rack  is  ten  and  one-half  inches  in 
height 


for  Canning  Fruits,  Vegetables,  etc.  21 

To  Steam  Tomatoes  by  Improved  Method. 

First  scald  tomatoes  by  dipping  them  in  boiling  hot  water 
for  a  minute;  then  dip  in  cold  water  for  a  minute,  then  take  out 
and  remove  skin,  place  in  jars,  whole  or  sliced,  as  compact  as 
possible,  by  working  tomatoes  down  on  all  sides  with  a  silver- 
bladed  knife,  filling  jar  completely  full,  put  on  rubbers  and  screw 
lids  part  way  down ;  then  take  a  boiler  or  vessel  and  set  on  hot 
stove ;  put  in  your  perforated  tin  or  racks  as  described ;  pour  in 
lukewarm  water  in  boiler  so  as  to  cover  about  three-fourths  of 
the  jar  or  about  up  to  neck  of  jar,  and  as  soon  as  the  water  boils 
steam  ten  minutes  from  that  time;  then  takeout  one  jar  at  a  time, 
screw  lid  air-tight,  put  back  in  boiler  at  once,  and  when  all  the 
lids  have  been  fastened,  steam  eighteen  minutes  more,  allowing 
water  in  vessel  to  completely  cover  the  jars ;  then  take  them  out 
and  allow  them  to  cool,  and  screw  on  lids  of  jars  tighter,  if 
possible.  When  you  put  jars  in  vessel  to  steam  for  the  last  time, 
the  water  that  you  use  must  completely  cover  jars,  must  be  boil- 
ing and  poured  over  slowly.  Never  set  jars  in  a  vessel  of  hot 
water  when  you  commence  to  steam  them.  For  tomatoes,  whole, 
with  the  skins  on,  put  tomatoes  in  jars  as  described  before. 
Stew  some  other  tomatoes  to  get  the  juice,  then  filter,  pour  this 
juice  medium-hot  over  the  whole  tomatoes  in  jars,  and  steam  in 
vessel  as  described  in  tomatoes  with  skins  off.  Always  select 
solid  tomatoes,  not  too  ripe,  frost  bitten  or  speckled,  as  they  will 
ferment ;  wrap  each  jar  with  coarse  brown  paper.  If  you  have  a 
damp  cellar  and  have  no  closet  to  keep  your  fruit  in,  put  it  in  a 
box  lined  with  cotton  batting  and  cover  with  a  lid. 

The  best  months  to  do  tomatoes  is  between  the  i$th  of 
August  and  the  5th  of  October.  If  you  wish  tomatoes  soft 
for  stewing  purposes,  steam  thirty  minutes  the  last  time, 
instead  of  eighteen  minutes.  Light  will  sour  tomatoes  and 
vegetables,  so  be  sure  to  wrap  them  as  described  or  keep  them  in 


22  Patented  and  Improved  Methods 

the  dark.  In  steaming  fruits  and  vegetables  you  must  always 
allow  from  the  time  water  boils,  and  when  you  tighten  lids, 
before  submerging  them  under  water,  you  allow  from  the  time 
the  lid  on  this  last  jar  is  tightened. 

To  Steam   All   Fruits  and  All  Berries    by   the   Improved 

Method. 

To  steam  the  fruits,  you  place  the  fruits  in  jars  compactly  as 
possible,  to  the  first  screw  of  jar,  pour  over  your  hot  syrup  to 
the  top  of  jar,  so  as  to  cover  fruit,  making  as  described  in  oven 
process,  and  steam  in  boiler  by  the  same  method  as  tomatoes. 
Use  the  following  time  :  For  all  berries,  and  grapes,  five  and  five 
minutes;  for  plums,  cherries,  peaches,  etc.,  five  and  ten  minutes  ; 
for  pineapple,  apples  and  pears,  five  and  fifteen  ;  quinces  and 
hard  fruits,  five  and  thirty.  This  means  five  minutes  to  be 
steamed  with  lid  part  way  and  the  balance  of  time  sealed  tight 
and  immersed,  as  described  above.  It  is  best,  if  you  can,  to 
tighten  the  lids  in  boiler,  instead  of  taking  them  out  and  tighten- 
ing— that  is,  before  you  immerse  them  the  last  time.  It  is  best 
in  using  this  steaming  process  never  to  set  jars  on  bottom  of 
boiler  or  on  a  flat  board.  I  desire  all  members  to  have  some 
fruit  racks  made,  which  I  describe  in  this  book  (to  be  made  by 
some  tinner  in  your  city),  as  it  will  save  you  a  great  deal  of 
inconvenience  and  prevent  the  breaking  of  jars.  When  filling 
jars  with  tomatoes,  pack  them  way  to  the  top,  and  if  after  ex- 
perimenting with  one  jar,  after  steaming  it  the  desired  time,  you 
find  that  it  will  not  make  enough  juice  to  completely  cover 
tomatoes,  I  would  fill  up  with  boiling  water  or  boiling  tomato 
juice  before  steaming  them  underwater  the  last  eighteen  minutes, 
as  it  is  important  for  the  liquid  to  cover  tomatoes.  It  is  best  to 
pour  in  the  described  liquids  or  syrups  for  your  fruit  or  tomatoes 
while  jars  are  in  boiler,  and  to  screw  them  tighter  in  boiler  as  de- 


for  Canning  Fruits,  Vegetables,  etc.  23 

scribed,  instead  of  taking  them  out  as  mentioned  above.  When 
tightening  jars  in  boiler  do  not  screw  lids  too  tight  or  the  jar  is 
liable  to  crack.  Use  a  cloth  in  your  hand  to  tighten  lid  on  jars 
in  boiler,  and  when  you  take  them  out  gradually  tighten  more 
as  they  cool ;  if  jars  are  allowed  to  cool  in  the  boiler  of  water, 
when  through  the  fruit  will  not  shrink  so  much. 

To  Steam  Corn,  Lima    Beans,   Peas,    and  For    All  Mixed 

Vegetables. 

Put  corn  in  a  colander  and  let  a  little  hot  water  run  over  it 
for  about  a  minute ;  then  cut  your  corn  off  the  cob,  scraping  as 
much  juice  out  of  the  cob  as  possible,  but  don't  mix  any  of  the 
cob  with  the  corn ;  fijl  your  jars  compactly  with  corn ;  every 
time  you  get  two  or  three  ears  of  corn  off  the  cob  in  a  jar,  work 
down  as  tight  as  possible,  until  the  jar  is  filled  compactly  about 
one-half  inch  from  top;  dissolve  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  five 
teaspoonfuls  of  sugar,  for  each  quart  jar,  and  mix  well  with 
the  corn ;  fasten  the  lid  of  the  jar  (without  the  rubber)  part 
way,  and  steam  in  boiler  of  water,  as  described  in  the  tomato 
method,  but  steam  four  hours  divided  as  follows :  Three  hours 
with  the  lid  screwed  down  part  way  so  as  to  leave  a  vent,  and 
the  water  in  boiler  covering  the  jars  about  three-quarters,  then 
take  out  the  jar,  work  corn  down  compactly  and  fill  up  from 
another  jar  processed  the  same  manner  and  time ;  put  on  rubber, 
and  seal  jars  air-tight  as  possible,  place  back  in  boiler,  add  boil- 
ing water  so  jar  is  completely  submerged  under  water  and  steam 
one  hour  more.  Take  jars  from  boiler,  allow  jars  to  cool  and  if 
Mason  jars  gradually  screw  them  tighter  and  put  in  a  dark,  cool 
place.  Corn  makes  sufficient  juice  of  its  own ;  never  can  corn 
that  is  dry  or  old,  it  should  be  canned  within  twenty-four  hours 
after  it  is  picked — it  is  best  to  wrap  the  jars  in  coarse  brown  paper 
as  light  will  cause  fermentation. 


24  Patented  and  Improved  Methods 

For  Lima  Beans,  Peas,  and  Succotash. 

Pack  them  in  your  jars,  but  not  as  compactly  as  you  would 
corn.  Dissolve  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  four  teaspoonfuls  of 
sugar  to  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water  for  each  quart  jar. 

N.  B. — You  can  leave  the  sugar  out  if  you  desire,  dissolve 
this  well,  pour  over  the  above  vegetables  in  the  jar  and  steam  the 
same  manner  and  time  as  described  for  corn.  Wrap  jars  and 
keep  them  in  a  cool  place. 

For  Mnshrooms,  String  Beans,  Asparagus,  Squash  and 
Cauliflower. 

The  string  beans,  such  as  white  and  bush  beans,  steam  three 
hours,  divided  as  follows :  two  hours  with  the  lids  part  way  on, 
and  one  hour  with  jars  sealed  air-tight  and  immersed  under 
water  as'  described  in  corn  ;  the  liquid  being  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt  to  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water,  to  one.  quart  jar.  For 
asparagus,  steam  the  same  as  string  beans,  using  the  same  liquid, 
but  before  steaming  the  last  hour  be  careful  to  have  the  liquid  in 
the  jar  cover  the  asparagus  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch,  or  it  is 
liable  to  ferment.  When  steaming  these  vegetables,  always  leave 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  from  the  top  of  the  jar,  to  allow  them 
to  swell  without  bursting  the  jar,  but  have  the  liquid  come  way 
to  the  top ;  wrap  vegetables  and  tomatoes  after  they  are  canned 
with  coarse  brown  paper  before  setting  them  away  in  the  closet. 
If  you  fill  jars  perfectly  full  with  fruit  and  vegetables,  and  have 
liquid  coming  way  to  top  so  as  to  leave  no  vacuum,  I  find  you 
can  with  safety  immerse  them  at  once  under  water. 

For  Squash,  Pumpkin,  Cauliflower  and  Mushrooms. 

Use  the  same  time  and   liquid  as  described  in  string  beans, 
etc.     If  you  wish  to  can  all  kinds   of  vegetables  together,  pack 


for  Canning  Fruits,  Vegetables,  etc.  25 

the  mixture  compactly  in  jars,  put  over  the  liquid  as  described 
above,  and  steam  by  the  same  time  as  the  corn  process,  but  never 
mix  corn  in  this  mixture. 

- 
To  Can  Salmon,  Lobster,  Meats,  Oysters  and  Other 

Shell  Fish. 

Pack  the  fish  in  your  jars,  and  distribute  about  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  salt  for  each  quart  can,  and  steam  by  the  same  method  as 
described  in  corn  and  vegetable  process,  using  the  same  time.  If 
after  steaming  the  first  two  hours  it  does  not  make  enough  juice, 
fill  up  can  with  boiling  water.  After  steaming  the  last  two  hours 
under  water,  take  out  and  allow  to  cool  under  water.  Be  sure 
and  wrap  coarse  brown  paper  around  jars,  as  light  will  cause  fer- 
mentation. Also  be  sure  to  keep  your  canned  fish  in  a  cool 
place  or  they  will  not  keep. 

We  do  not  need  to  use  acids  in  our  methods  of  canning  fruits 
or  vegetables,  nor  do  we  recommend  same  for  canning  purposes 
when  not  necessary,  especially  in  the  large  proportions  given  by 
unscrupulous  agents  who  pretend  they  can  preserve  fruit  and 
vegetables  in  the  cold  state  by  the  use  of  this  acid.  This  is  a  rank 
fraud  and  imposition.  It  may  keep  the  fruit,  but  it  imparts  a 
terrible  flavor  and  just  ruins  it  for  eating  purposes.  But  in  the 
small  proportions  given  in  my  formula,  first  dissolving  it  in  alco- 
hol and  putting  this  solution  in  while  hot,  which  causes  a  certain 
amount  of  evaporation  to  take  place,  canners  will  find  this  a  splen- 
did remedy  for  the  preventing  of  fermentation  of  the  following 
vegetables  mentioned  and  leaves  no  taste.  You  will  notice  we 
do  not  mention  fruits,  it  is  not  necessary  for  them,  as  they  seldom 
ferment  if  properly  canned.  But  owing  to  the  fact  that  heat, 
light,  dampness,  or  improper  ventilation  do  affect  vegetables  or 
any  compound  made  of  them,  or  in  case  housekeepers  are  care- 
less in  not  selecting  perfect  tomatoes  or  vegetables,  fermentation 
will  surely  take  place,  and  the  following  is  a  sure  remedy  for  pre- 


26 

venting  tomatoes,  corn,  vegetables,  catsup,  mince  meat,  chili 
sauce,  and  other  vegetables  compounds ;  also  syrups,  cordials, 
spiced  fruits  and  other  fruit  compounds  from  fermenting :  Take 
six  grains  of  salicylic  acid  and  dissolve  into  one  dessertspoonful 
of  pure  alcohol  for  each  one  quart  of  the  above.  Put  this  solu- 
tion in  just  after  taking  any  of  the  above  mentioned  vegetables, 
syrups  or  compounds  while  hot  from  the  stove,  preparatory  to 
filling  into  your  jars  or  bottles;  pouring  the  solution  in  while  your 
syrups  or  compounds  are  hot  evaporates  the  alcohol  and  leaves 
no  taste ;  seal  jars  or  bottles  air-tight  and  keep  in  a  dark,  dry 
place ;  temperature  should  be  from  forty  to  seventy  degrees  (one 
dessertspoonful  is  equal  to  two  teaspoonfuls).  For  liquids  and 
unfermented  drinks  add  only  three  to  four  grains  to  each  quart. 

If  you  find  you  have  trouble  in  keeping  tomatoes,  corn  and 
vegetables  from  fermenting,  owing  to  improper  ventilation  or  not 
having  the  proper  storerooms  to  keep  same,  use  the  following 
method :  Dissolve  six  to  eight  grains  of  salicylic  acid  to  one  tea- 
spoonful  salt  to  four  teaspoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar  for  each  one 
quart  jar ;  mix  well  through  the  jar  with  your  vegetables  and 
process  according  to  directions.  You  will  find  this  will  leave  no 
taste,  and  is  an  infallible  remedy  to  prevent  fermentation. 

Fermentation  is  divided  into  three  stages — alcoholic,  ascetous 
and  putrefactive.  When  yourfruitand  vegetables  commence  to  turn 
sour  that  is  the  alcoholic  state,  and  in  that  state  you  must  never 
attempt  to  can  same,  but  they  can  be  utilized  to  make  wine  and 
other  fermented  drinks.  After  a  few  days  the  acetous  state  sets  in, 
which  makes  them  very  sour,  and  last  of  all  the  putrefactive 
which  is  the  complete  decomposition  of  the  fruits  or  vegetables. 

Important  to  Housekeepers. 

I  would  advise  my  patrons  not  to  use  tin  cans  at  all  to  can 
fruit  or  vegetables  in,  as  the  acid  of  fruits  and  vegetables  com- 


for  Canning  Fruits,  Vegetables,  etc.  27 

bined  with  the  lead  of  the  tin  forms  an  ascetate  of  lead  which  is 
very  poisonous.  In  purchasing  fruits  or  vegetables  canned  in  tin, 
great  care  should  be  exercised  in  selecting  perfect  cans.  The 
following  rules  will  be  well  to  follow:  Reject  all  canned  goods 
that  do  not  have  the  manufacturer's  name  and  address  stamped 
on  can.  Reject  cans  that  do  not  show  the  rosin  around  the  edge 
of  the  solder  of  the  cap.  Always  press  up  on  the  bottom  of  can, 
and  if  it  rattles  you  will  know  that  contents  of  same  is  in  a  putre- 
factive state,  for  if  sound  it  would  be  solid  and  there  could  be  no 
rattle.  All  fruits  and  vegetables  should  be  removed  from  tin 
cans  as  soon  as  opened,  for  if  they  are  left  to  stand  in  same  for 
any  length  of  time  a  poisonous  compound  is  liable  to  form. 


NKW    KDITION. 


The  formulas  given  in  this  new  edition  embrace  jellies,  jams, 
catsup,  pickling,  sauces,  chow  chow,  fancy  drinks,  ices  and 
fancy  desserts  ;  also  many  other  valuable  household  formulas 
which  no  good  housekeeper  can  afford  to  be  without.  We  do 
not  claim  them  all  as  original,  but  we  do  claim  that  they  are  the 
most  modern  and  improved  methods  known,  and  that  they  are 
the  means  of  saving  a  great  deal  of  labor  and  expense,  and  if 
followed  exactly  no  one  need  make  a  failure.  The  methods  of 
preserving,  pickling,  brandying  fruits  and  making  jams  have  all 
received  the  highest  prizes  at  the  different  fairs  in  France, 
Germany  and  this  country,  and  should  be  highly  prized  by  all 
housekeepers. 

Formulas  for  fancy  desserts  published  in  this  edition  have 
been  obtained  by  me  from  some  of  the  leading  chefs  of  this 
country  and  Europe  at  a  considerable  cost,  and  can  be  highly 
recommended  for  their  simplicity  and  the  good  results  that  any 
one  can  obtain  by  following  out  the  directions  minutely. 

In  our  latest  edition  on  "  The  Art  of  Cooking  and  House- 
keeping Simplified,"  we  have  published  a  great  many  more 
valuable  formulas  for  desserts  of  all  kinds,  which  will  prove  very 
valuable  to  our  patrons, 


Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves.  29 

The  Preparation  of  Jellies. 

All  fruit  used  in  making  jellies  should,  if  possible,  be  freshly 
picked  before  it  becomes  overripe,  as  \hzpectose,  the  jelly  pro- 
ducing element  looses  its  strength  with  age.  It  consequently 
would  not  have  as  nice  a  flavor,  and  would  be  more  apt  to  "  form." 
Therefore  reject  all  overripe,  unripe,  wormy  or  partially  decayed 
fruits,  and  when  necessary  wash  fruits  in  colander  before  jellying. 

The  reason  that  some  fruits  cannot  be  made  into  a  firm  jelly 
is  because  they  do  not  contain  as  much  pectose.  Peaches  and 
cherries  contain  but  a  small  amount  of  pectose. 

Apples,  crab  apples,  pineapples  and  quinces  should  be  first 
steamed  in  a  steamer  or  cooked  in  a  little  water  to  soften  them. 

If  a  very  clear  jelly  is  desired,  the  juice  must  be  allowed  to 
drain  out  without  pressing  or  squeezing.  The  juice  of  berries, 
grapes  and  currants  may  be  extracted  without  the  fruit  being 
first  scalded,  if  preferred,  by  putting  the  fruit  into  an  earthen  or 
granite-ware  dish,  and  mashing  well  with  a  wooden  potato  masher, 
then  putting  into  a  jelly  bag  and  allowing  the  juice  to  drain  off 
for  several  hours. 

When  strained,  if  the  jelly  is  to  be  prepared  with  sugar, 
measure  the  juice  and  pour  it  into  a  granite  or  porcelain  fruit 
kettle  with  a  very  broad  bottom,  so  that  as  much  surface  can  be 
on  the  stove  as  possible.  It  is  betterto  boil  the  juice  in  quantities  of 
not  more  than  two  or  three  quarts  at  a  time,  unless  one  has  some 
utensil  in  which  a  larger  quantity  can  be  cooked  with  no  greater 
depth  of  liquid  than  the  above  quantity  would  give  in  a  common 
fruit  kettle.  The  purpose  of  the  boiling  is  to  evaporate  the  water 
from  the  juice,  and  this  can  best  be  accomplished  before  the 
sugar  is  added.  The  sugar,  if  boiled  with  the  juice,  also  darkens 
the  jelly. 

The  average  length  of  time  required  for  boiling  the  juice  of 
most  berries,  currants  and  grapes,  extracted  as  previously  directed, 


30  Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves. 

before  adding  the  sugar,  is  twenty  minutes  from  the  time  it  be- 
gins to  bubble  all  over  its  surface.  It  is  well  to  test  the  jelly 
occasionally,  however,  by  dropping  a  small  quantity  on  a  plate 
to  cool,  since  the  quantity  of  juice  and  the  rapidity  with  which  it 
is  boiled,  may  necessitate  some  variation  in  time.  In  wet  seasons 
fruits  of  all  kinds  absorb  more  moisture  and  a  little  longer  boil- 
ing may  be  necessary.  The  same  is  true  of  the  juice  of  fruits 
gathered  after  a  heavy  rain.  Jellies  prepared  with  sugar  are 
generally  made  of  equal  measures  of  juice  and  sugar,  measured 
before  boiling ;  but  a  very  scant  measure  of  sugar  is  sufficient, 
and  a  less  amount  will  suffice  for  many  fruits.  White  granulated 
sugar  is  best  for  all  jellies. 

To  Make  Jelly  from  Any  Kind  of  Berries. 

To  every  one  pound  of  sugar  take  one  pound  of  berries  and 
prepare  as  follows :  Put  berries  first  in  a  stone  crock,  porcelain  or 
agate  vessel.  Stand  this  in  vessel  of  warm  water  (not  hot),  al- 
lowing water  to  come  up  about  three-fourths  of  vessel  holding 
fruit  and  allow  to  boil  until  berries  are  well  broken  and  mashed. 
Then  take  out  vessel  from  water,  strain  juices  through  a  piece  of 
cheese  cloth.  If  you  desire  to  utilize  all  the  berries  for  jelly,  put 
the  berries  after  the  juice  is  drained  off  in  a  bag  made  of  cheese 
cloth,  about  a  cupful  at  a  time,  and  squeeze  out  all  the  juice  until 
all  are  thus  treated.  But  if  you  wish  to  make  a  jam  from  the  ber- 
ries remaining,  you  can  take  the  berries  after  you  first  strain  off 
the  juice  and  work  them  into  a  jam.  Then  take  your  sugar  in 
the  proportion  given  (always  using  the  best  granulatad  sugar), 
and  put  in  a  dripping  pan  and  stand  pan  in  a  medium  hot  oven, 
opening  the  door  of  oven  every  now  and  then  to  stir  sugar  so  it 
will  not  burn.  Then  boil  juice  from  the  berries  on  top  of  stove 
about  twenty  minutes  from  time  it  commences  to  boil.  Then 
take  sugar  out  of  oven,  pour  into  juice,  and  let  this  just  come  to 


Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves.  31 

a  boil ;  skim  off  scum  quickly,  take  off  stove,  and  fill  your  hot 
jars  or  tumblers  as  quickly  as  possible.  Place  paper  over  jelly  on 
inside  of  jar  (first  dipping  paper  in  warm  brandy).  Put  a  piece 
of  cotton  batting  (not  wadding)  over  paper  and  seal.  This  latter 
will  prevent  all  mould.  If  you  find  that  sugar  in  pan,  while  in 
oven,  melts  on  the  side,  do  not  be  alarmed,  for  when  this  is  poured 
in  the  juice,  it  will  form  in  lumps  and  you  can  easily  remove 
that.  Always  remove  all  lumps  and  impurities  in  the  jelly  be- 
fore taking  same  off  the  stove.  The  juice  of  one  lemon  to  every 
pint  of  juice  before  boiling  juice  will  add  greatly  to  the  flavor. 
Stir  jelly  as  little  as  possible  after  adding  sugar,  as  it  is  liable  to 
candy.  In  that  case  use  the  remedy  as  suggested  in  this  book  in 
general  receipts,  and  marked  on  page  18  in  book. 

To  Make  Jellies  from  Peaches,  Pears,  Apples  and  Other 

Fruits. 

To  every  one  pound  of  fruit  take  one  pound  of  good  granu- 
lated sugar  and  treat  them  in  the  same  way  as  you  did  the  ber- 
ries, drawing  off  the  juice  and  adding  the  juice  of  the  lemon  and 
sealing  in  the  same  manner. 

Quinces  and  crab  apples  being  hard,  steam  them  a  little  while 
in  your  steamer,  then  put  them  in  crocks  or  vessels  in  water  as 
described.  To  each  pound  of  fruit  put  over  about  one-quarter 
cup  of  warm  water — and  jelly  as  described  in  berries — don't  fail 
to  add  lemon  juice. 

To  Brandy  all  Kinds  of  Fruits. 

To  every  one  pound  of  fruit  take  one  pound  of  good  granu- 
lated sugar,  and  one-quarter  of  a  pint  of  good  white  brandy,  and 
use  as  follows  :  First  pour  over  just  enough  water  so  sugar  will 
dissolve,  then  drop  in  your  fruit  and  allow  to  boil  five  minutes 


32  Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves. 

for  cherries  and  berries,  and  eight  minutes  for  peaches,  pears, 
plums,  pineapples  and  apples,  and  ten  minutes  for  apricots,  crab 
apples  and  quinces. 

Take  out  fruit  and  place  in  hot  jars  on  back  of  stove  in  drip- 
ping pan  as  described  in  fruit,  having  cover  on  jars ;  boil  down 
the  syrup  fifteen  minutes,  don't  stir  more  than  necessary,  add  in 
the  brandy  and  pour  this  syrup  over  fruit  to  overflowing  and 
seal.  The  brandy  must  never  be  added  until  the  syrup  is  boiled 
down  as  described. 

To  make  Jam  from  Raspberries,  Strawberries,  Currants,  and 
All  Other  Berries  and  Fruits. 

To  every  one  pound  of  fruit  use  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
good  granulated  sugar,  and  one-quarter  of  a  pint  of  red  currant 
juice;  using  as  follows :  Boil  the  juice  of  the  currants  with  the 
strawberries  for  about  one-half  an  hour,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Then  dip  out  nearly  all  the  juice,  leaving  the  fruit  quite  dry.  Add 
the  sugar  in  proportions  given,  and  boil  about  twenty  minutes, 
skimming  carefully,  then  put  in  your  jars;  use  brandied  paper 
on  top  before  sealing  and  piece  of  cotton  batting  as  described. 
You  can  omit  the  currant  if  you  desire,  but  the  flavor  is  not  so 
nice. 

Brandied  Cherries. 

Use  perfectly  sound,  large  sweet  cherries  ;  remove  the  stems, 
or  clip  them  within  an  inch  of  the  fruit ;  put  over  the  fire  in  the 
preserving-kettle  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  quart  of  water ;  boil 
them  together,  and  skim  the  syrup  quite  clear ;  scald  the  cher- 
ries in  this  for  two  or  three  minutes,  but  not  long  enough  to  break 
the  skins ;  then  take  them  from  the  syrup  with  a  skimmer,  and 
spread  them  on  dishes  to  cool. 

Make  a  syrup  in  quantity  sufficient  to  cover  the  cherries,  al- 


Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves.  33 

lowing  a  pound  of  sugar  to  half  a  pint  of  water  or  of  the  thin 
syrup  used  for  scalding  the  cherries ;  boil  the  syrup,  skimming  it 
until  it  is  clear,  and  then  cool  it ;  when  it  is  cold,  mix  with  it  an 
equal  quantity  of  the  best  French  brandy.  Put  the  cherries  into 
wide-mouthed  bottles,  pour  the  syrup  over  them,  cork  the  bottles 
tight,  and  then  seal  them  by  dipping  the  corks  into  melted  resin 
and  wax. 

Grape  Jelly. 

Prepare  the  juices  the  same  as  in  directions  given  for  berries, 
and  process  the  same  manner ;  for  green  grapes  add  from  one- 
quarter  to  one-half  pound  more  sugar. 

Orange  Jelly. 

Select  tart  oranges,  press  out  the  juice,  and  mix  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  juice  pressed  from  sub-acid  apples.  Then  for  each 
pint  of  juice  use  from  three-quarters  to  one  pound  of  sugar,  and 
process  the  same  as  in  directions  for  making  other  jellies. 

Apple  Jelly  without  Sugar. 

Select  juicy,  white  fleshed,  sub-acid  fruit,  perfectly  sound  and 
mature,  but  not  mellow.  The  snow  apple  is  one  of  the  best  vari- 
eties for  this  purpose.  Wash  well,  slice  and  core,  without  remov- 
ing the  skins,  and  cook  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe.  Drain 
off  the  juice,  and  if  a  very  clear  jelly  is  desired,  filter  it  through  a 
piece  of  cheesecloth  previously  wrung  out  of  hot  water.  Boil 
the  juice,  rapidly  at  first,  but  more  gently  as  it  becomes  thick- 
ened, until  of  the  desired  consistency.  The  time  required  will 
vary  with  the  quantity  of  juice,  the  shallowness  of  the  dish  in 
which  it  is  boiled,  and  the  heat  employed.  One  hour  at  least 
v/ill  be  required  for  one  or  two  quarts  of  juice.  When  the  juice 


34  Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves. 

has  become  considerably  evaporated,  test  it  frequently  by  dip- 
ping a  few  drops  on  a  plate  to  cool ;  and  when  it  jellies  suffi- 
ciently remove  at  once  from  the  fire.  A  much  larger  quantity 
of  juice  will  be  needed  for  jelly  prepared  in  this  manner  than 
when  sugar  is  used,  about  two  quarts  of  juice  being  required  for 
one-half  pint  of  jelly.  Such  jelly,  however,  has  a  most  delicious 
flavor,  and  is  excellent  served  with  grains.  Diluted  with  water, 
it  forms  a  most  pleasing  beverage. 

Apple  and  Pear  Marmalade. 

Peel  seven  pounds  of  tart  apples  and  put  them  into  the  pre- 
serving kettle  with  a  pint  of  cold  water  ;  peel  the  yellow  rind  of 
four  lemons,  and  add  same  to  the  apples.  Boil  it  to  a  pulp,  then 
squeeze  in  the  juice  of  the  lemons  and  add  four  pounds  of  sugar, 
and  boil  the  marmalade  from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  until  it  has  the  proper  "  form  "  and  seal  in  your  glasses. 

To  put  Fruit  in  Jelly. 

Prepare  some  jelly,  either  from  apples  or  oranges  when  boiled 
to  the  proper  consistency,  and  add  to  it  as  it  begins  to  cool  stoned 
dates,  seeded  raisins,  pitted  cherries  or  other  small  fruits. 

Quince  Jelly. 

Clean  thoroughly  good  sound  fruit,  and  slice  thin.  Put  into 
a  double  boiler  with  one  cup  of  water  for  each  five  pounds  of 
fruit,  and  cook  until  softened.  Express  the  juice,  and  proceed 
as  with  other  jellies,  allowing  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  each  pint  of  juice.  Tart  or  sweet  apples  may  be  used  with 
quinces  in  equal  proportions,  and  make  a  jelly  of  more  pleasant 
flavor  than  quinces  used  alone.  The  seeds  of  quinces  contain  con- 


Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves.  35 

siderable  gelatinous  substance,  and  should  be  cooked  with  the 
quince  for  jelly  making. 

Plum  Jelly. 

Use  damsons  or  greengages.  Stone,  and  make  them  in  the 
same  way  as  for  berry  and  other  small  fruit  jellies. 

Peach  Marmalade. 

With  a  rough  cloth  rub  the  fur  from  sound  ripe  peaches.  Cut 
them  in  halves,  taking  out  the  stones,  and  crack  about  half  of 
them  and  take  out  the  kernels  ;  pour  boiling  water  over  the  ker- 
nels, and  rub  off  the  skins ;  then  cut  them  lengthwise  in  small 
strips,  weigh  the  peaches,  put  them  in  preserving  kettle,  and  add 
to  them  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of 
peaches ;  set  on  back  of  stove  where  it  will  heat  slowly  ;  when  it 
boils  stir  constantly  and  let  it  boil  half  an  hour ;  when  it  has 
boiled  twenty-five  minutes  put  in  the  kernels  you  have  cut  in 
strips,  and  boil  it  five  minutes  longer.  Put  the  marmalade  in  jars, 
and  when  cold  dip  a  white  paper  in  brandy  and  lay  over  it  and 
seal  tight. 

Crab  Apple  Jelly. 

Wash  the  apples,  cut  them  in  small  pieces,  put  them  in  pre- 
serving-kettle with  just  enough  water  to  cover  them.  Set  them 
on  the  stove  and  let  them  cook  to  a  pulp ;  then  pour  all  into  the 
jelly  bag,  and  let  the  juice  drain  through  them  (do  not  squeeze 
the  bag),  and  to  each  pint  of  juice  add  one  pound  of  sugar  and 
boil  together,  removing  all  scum,  for  twenty  minutes,  or  until  a 
little  of  the  juice  cooled  forms  a  jelly  ;  when  partly  cooled  put  it 
in  your  cups,  dip  a  piece  of  white  paper  in  brandy  and  lay  over 
it,  and  seal  tight. 


36  Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves* 

Apple  Jelly. 

Quarter  and  remove  the  cores  of  twelve  large,  juicy  apples, 
put  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and  place  over  the 
fire  ;  let  simmer  slowly  for  thirty  minutes.  Place  a  sieve  over  an 
earthen  bowl,  pour  the  apples  in  the  sieve,  and  let  the  juice 
drain  into  the  bowl ;  when  the  juice  has  all  run  into  the  bowl, 
strain  it  through  a  cheesecloth,  and  to  each  pint  of  juice  add 
one  pound  of  white  sugar ;  put  juice  and  sugar  in  preserving 
kettle,  and  set  it  over  the  fire.  Let  it  heat  gradually,  and  when 
it  comes  to  a  boil,  boil  it  ten  minutes  longer,  remove  from  stove, 
and  let  it  cool.  Pour  into  your  glasses,  and  put  up  as  already 
directed  for  jellies. 

Cherry  Preserves. 

Take  sound  fruit  as  large  as  possible.  Stew  the  cherries,  and 
remove  the  stone  or  pit  with  a  quill  by  pushing  through  the 
cherry  from  the  stem  end,  thus  punching  out  the  stone  (the  quill 
should  be  cut  squarely  off  first)  ;  save  all  the  juice.  After  the  fruit 
is  stoned,  weigh  it,  and  for  every  pound  of  fruit  add  one  pound 
of  sugar;  sprinkle  the  sugar  through  the  fruit  and  let  it  stand  over 
night — this  will  harden  the  fruit ;  then  put  all  in  the  preserving 
kettle  and  place  it  on  back  of  stove  where  it  will  heat  gradually, 
and  let  it  boil  slowly  until  the  cherries  look  clear,  removing  all 
scum  as  it  rises.  When  the  cherries  are  clear  remove  from  the 
stove,  cover  it,  and  let  it  cool.  Put  in  glass  jars,  dip  a  piece  of 
paper  in  brandy  and  lay  over  the  fruit,  seal  air-tight  and  keep 
them  in  a  cool,  dark  place. 

Raspberry  Preserves. 

Take  nice  firm  berries,  looking  them  over  carefully  so  as  to  be 
?ure  that  no  insects  are  hidden  in  the  fruit,  and  then  weigh  them ; 


Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves.  37 

take  an  equal  amount  of  sugar  and  fruit,  put  it  in  the  preserving 
kettle  in  layers  alternately,  having  a  layer  of  sugar  at  top  and 
bottom,  let  it  stand  over  night.  The  next  day  squeeze  through 
a  cloth  some  ripe  currants,  and  allow  half  a  pint  of  currant  juice 
to  each  two  pounds  of  fruit  and  sugar,  weighed  together ;  pour 
the  currant  juice  over  the  fruit  and  sugar  in  preserving  kettle 
and  place  kettle  over  the  fire  and  stir  until  they  boil;  be  careful 
not  to  break  the  berries.  After  it  boils,  stir  often  enough  to  pre- 
vent sticking  or  burning;  when  the  berries  look  clear  remove 
from  stove,  cover  them  and  let  cool  When  quite  cold  put  into 
glass  jars,  lay  a  piece  of  brandied  paper  on  top  of  fruit  in  each  jar 
and  seal  air-tight.  A  few  china  marbles  placed  in  kettle  when 
syrup  is  boiling  will  prevent  the  sticking  or  burning  of  same. 

Elderberry  and  Grape  Jelly. 

Use  one-third  of  ripe  grapes  and  two-thirds  of  ripe  elder- 
berries, have  all  the  stems  out,  put  them  in  saucepan,  and  place 
over  the  fire  and  let  them  cook  slowly  until  tender  enough  to 
yield  all  their  juice  freely,  then  put  it  into  a  jelly  bag  and  let 
drain  until  all  the  juice  is  out.  Then  for  each  pint  of  juice  add 
one  pint  of  granulated  sugar;  then  boil  the  sugar  and  juice  to- 
gether, and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Continue  the  boil- 
ing until  a  little  of  the  jelly  cooled  on  a  saucer  stiffens,  and  when 
it  is  partly  cool  pour  it  into  the  jelly  moulds,  and  when  cold 
cover  with  brandied  paper  to  exclude  the  air. 

Barberry  Jelly. 

Clean  the  berries,  weigh  them,  and  put  in  saucepan  with 
water  enough  to  prevent  burning,  and  boil  the  berries  to  a  pulp ; 
then  pour  all  into  a  jelly  bag,  do  not  squeeze  them,  but  let  the 
juice  run  through  the  bag,,  and  to  each  pint  of  juice  add  one 


38  Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves. 

pound  of  sugar.  Boil  the  sugar  and  juice  together,  and  if  a  scum 
rises,  skim  it  off;  continue  boiling  until  a  little  of  the  jelly  cooled 
on  a  saucer  stiffens,  and  when  the  jelly  is  partly  cool  pour  it  into 
the  jelly  glasses  and  cover  with  brandied  paper  and  seal  air- 
tight. 

Pineapple  Preserves. 

Peel  and  slice  nice  ripe  pineapples,  use  equal  parts  of  sugar 
and  pineapple,  put  a  thick  layer  of  sugar  in  a  deep  bowl  or  crock 
and  fill  it  with  alternate  layers  of  fruit  and  sugar,  having  sugar 
at  top,  and  let  it  stand  over  night.  In  the  morning  drain  the 
syrup  into  a  preserving  kettle,  place  it  over  the  fire  and  let  it  boil 
gently,  removing  the  scum  as  it  rises,  and  allow  to  boil  slowly 
until  a  little  of  it  cooled  on  a  plate  thickens.  Then  pour  the 
syrup  over  the  pineapple,  and  let  it  cool,  and  when  quite  cold 
seal  in  glasses  or  jars. 

Plum  Marmalade. 

Wash,  and  cut  the  plum  nearly  to  the  stone,  put  into  a  pre- 
serving kettle  and  place  over  a  moderate  fire  ;  stir  them  to  pre- 
vent burning  as  they  boil ;  the  stones  will  rise  to  the  top — skim 
them  out.  Simmer  until  the  plums  are  tender,  then  rub  them 
through  a  sieve ;  crack  about  one-quarter  of  the  stones,  take  out 
the  kernels,  pour  boiling  water  over  them  and  rub  the  skins  off; 
cut  them  in  small  strips,  add  the  kernels  and  weigh  the  pulp. 
To  each  pound  of  pulp  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar. 
Place  in  preserving  kettle  and  put  on  the  stove,  stir  until  they 
boil,  and  slowly  boil  them  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  constantly. 
Then  partly  cool  the  marmalade  and  put  it  up  as  already 
directed. 

Cranberry  and  Sago  Jelly. 

Select  nice  berries  and  wash  thoroughly ;  put  them  in  a 
saucepan,  cover  with  cold  water,  place  vessel  over  the  fire  and 


Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves.  39 

stew  until  so  tender  that  they  will  break  as  you  stir  them  with 
a  spoon.  When  they  are  all  soft,  squeeze  through  a  jelly  bag, 
and  to  a  quart  of  the  strained  juice  add  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and 
two  ounces  of  sago ;  let  it  boil  until  the  sago  is  transparent. 
Rinse  your  jelly  glasses  with  cold  water  and  pour  the  jelly  in. 
Let  it  cool  before  using. 

Apple  Jam. 

Select  nice,  tart  and  well  flavored  apples ;  chop  them  fine, 
removing  the  core ;  to  each  one  pound  of  prepared  apples  as 
described,  use  one  pound  of  light  brown  sugar.  First  pour  over 
the  sugar  one  gill  of  cold  water  ;  put  this  in  a  kettle  on  the  stove, 
skim  syrup  clean,  then  put  in  your  apples  and  scrape  into  this 
the  yellow  rind  of  one  lemon  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  lemon  ; 
scrape  and  slice  one  small  green  ginger  root  to  each  pound  of  apples 
and  boil  all  slowly  until  apples  look  clear,,  stirring  just  enough  to 
prevent  burning.  When  the  jam  is  cooked  sufficiently,  allow  it 
to  cool  in  kettle,  put  into  glasses  or  jars,  and  seal  as  directed  in 
jellies  and  jams. 

Florida  Orange  Marmalade. 

Grate  off  the  yellow  rind  of  nine  large  oranges ;  add  to  the 
grated  rind  the  juice  of  three  large  lemons ;  remove  the  thick 
white  rind  from  the  grated  oranges,  and  all  the  rind  from  nine 
more  ;  weigh  the  eighteen  oranges,  and  allow  an  equal  weight  of 
white  sugar.  Put  the  grated  rind,  lemon-juice  and  sugar  over 
the  fire,  and  let  them  boil ;  meantime  free  the  pulp  and  juice  of 
the  oranges  from  all  the  white  skin,  and  add  them  to  the  boiling 
sugar ;  boil  the  marmalade  slowly  until  a  little  of  it  cooled  on 
a  saucer  jellies.  Put  it  away  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  other 
marmalades. 


4O  Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves. 

Preserved  Tomatoes. 

Use  small  yellow  tomatoes,  perfectly  ripe  and  sound  ;  pour 
boiling  water  over  them  and  then  peel  them,  being  careful  to 
keep  them  entire.  Weigh  the  tomatoes  and  allow  an  equal 
quantity  of  sugar ;  to  each  pound  of  sugar  use  half  a  lemon 
thinly  sliced,  the  seeds  being  removed  ;  put  the  sugar  and  lemons 
into  the  preserving-kettle,  with  just  enough  water  to  moisten  the 
sugar,  and  slowly  heat  it  until  it  dissolves ;  boil  it  and  skim  it 
until  it  is  clear ;  then  put  in  the  tomatoes,  and  boil  them  gently 
for  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Cool  the  tomatoes,  and  then  put 
them  up  as  directed  in  other  preserve  recipes. 

Tomato-Figs. 

Use  the  small  yellow  tomatoes ;  scald  the  tomatoes,  remove 
the  skins  without  breaking  the  fruit  and  weigh  it ;  allow  half  as 
much  sugar  as  there  is  fruit ;  pack  the  tomatoes  and  sugar  in 
layers  in  earthen  jars  and  let  them  stand  for  twenty-four  hours. 
Then  drain  the  juice  from  the  fruit,  add  to  it  a  pound  of  sugar 
for  each  pint  of  juice,  put  them  together  in  a  preserving-kettle 
over  the  fire,  and  boil  them  ;  when  the  syrup  thus  made  is  boil- 
ing, put  in  the  tomatoes,  and  continue  the  boiling  until  they  look 
clear,  removing  all  scum  as  it  rises ;  when  the  tomatoes  look 
clear  pour  them  into  earthen  jars,  and  let  them  stand  for  two 
days.  Then  again  drain  off  the  syrup,  boil  it  up  once,  pour  it 
again  over  the  fruit  and  let  them  stand  two  days  longer.  At 
the  end  of  that  time  take  the  tomatoes  from  the  syrup,  lay  them 
on  sieves  or  dishes,  and  dry  them  for  a  week,  putting  them  in  the 
sun  every  day,  and  turning  them  over  twice  a  day  ,  if  the  weather 
should  be  damp,  the  tomato-figs  should  be  dried  in  a  warm  room. 
When  they  are  quite  dry,  pack  them  in  wooden  boxes,  with  dry 
sugar  between  the  layers,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  place. 


Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves.  41 

Tomato  Jelly. 

Stew  a  quart  of  tomatoes,  with  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt 
and  pepper,  to  a  soft  pulp ;  strain  this  pulp  through  a  very  fine 
sieve  or  jelly-bag;  to  each  pint  of  the  strained  tomato  add  half 
a  cupful  of  white  sugar,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch 
dissolved  in  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water ;  put  these  ingredients 
over  the  fire,  and  stir  them  until  they  have  boiled  for  one  minute  ; 
then  cool  the  jelly.  Serve  it  with  broiled,  fried,  baked  or  roasted 
meats. 

Tomato  Jam. 

Scald  ripe,  sound  tomatoes,  peel  them,  put  them  over  the  fire 
in  a  preserving  kettle,  and  cook  them  gently  until  they  are 
tender  enough  to  be  rubbed  through  a  sieve  with  a  potato-masher; 
weigh  the  pulp,  put  it  again  into  the  kettle  with  an  equal  weight 
of  sugar;  to  each  pound  add  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  two 
lemons,  and  boil  the  jam  until  it  looks  clear,  and  is  thick  when  a 
little  is  cooled  on  a  saucer.  Then  cool  it  a  little,  and  put  it  up 
in  air-tight  glass  jars,  or  in  glasses  with  paper  pasted  over  the 
top. 

Barberry  Jam. 

Weigh  the  berries  that  are  left  in  the  jelly  bag  (after  making 
jelly)  put  them  into  the  saucepan,  with  an  equal  amount  of  brown 
sugar,  and  boil  to  a  thick  jam  ;  take  off  all  scum  that  rises.  Stir 
it  as  it  thickens  to  prevent  burning  ;  when  the  jam  is  done  let  it 
cool  a  little,  put  in  air-tight  jars  and  cover  with  paper. 

Raspberry  and  Currant  Jam. 

Take  an  equal  amount  of  raspberries  and  sugar.  To  each 
pound  of  fruit  and  sugar  (that  is  the  united  weight  of  both)  add 


42  Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves. 

half  a  pint  of  currant  juice.  Put  the  currant  juice  and  the  rasp- 
berries in  the  saucepan  and  place  on  the  fire ;  mash  the  berries 
by  using  a  wooden  spoon;  stir  continually,  let  them  boil  until 
about  one-third  of  the  juice  is  left,  then  put  in  the  sugar,  stirring 
constantly.  When  the  sugar  is  dissolved  let  it  simmer  slowly 
for  about  five  minutes;  great  care  should  be  taken  not  to  let  it 
burn.  When  cool  put  in  jars,  and  dip  a  piece  of  white  paper  in 
brandy  and  lay  over  it ;  then  put  a  layer  of  cotton  batting  over 
all  and  seal  the  jars. 

Preserved  Pears. 

Take  acid  pears  for  preserving.  If  the  fruit  is  small  preserve 
it  whole,  if  large  cut  in  halves,  peel  the  pears  with  a  silver  knife, 
dropping  them  into  cold  water  as  fast  as  they  are  peeled  to  pre- 
vent discoloration.  When  the  fruit  is  all  prepared  allow  a  pound 
of  sugar  to  each  pound  of  pears.  Put  the  fruit  over  the  fire  with 
just  enough  water  to  cover  it,  and  boil  it  gently  until  it  is  tender 
enough  to  yield  to  a  slight  pressure  of  the  fingers ;  meantime 
put  the  sugar  into  the  preserving  kettle,  adding  to  each  pound  a 
pint  of  cold  water,  and  to  every  five  pounds  of  the  sugar,  add  the 
thinly  pared  yellow  rind  and  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  two  ounces 
of  green  ginger  root  scalded  and  scraped  ;  boil  the  syrup  and  re- 
move all  scum  as  it  rises;  when  the  pears  are  boiled,  as  directed 
above,  put  them  into  the  syrup,  and  boil  them  until  they  look 
clear  ;  when  the  pears  are  thoroughly  penetrated  with  the  syrup, 
remove  the  preserving  kettle  from  the  fire,  allow  the  preserves  to 
cool,  and  put  them  in  glasses  or  jars  as  directed  in  preserves  and 
jams. 

To  Preserve  Fruits  Whole. 

Take  four  pounds  of  granulated  sugar  and  add  just  enough 
water  to  dissolve  the  sugar ;  allow  syrup  to  come  to  a  boil,  skim 
clean,  and  then  boil  syrup  until  it  strings.  Take  vessel  from 


Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves.  43 

stove,  add  to  syrup  one  pint  of  alcohol,  and  while  it  is  foaming 
pour  it  over  peaches  or  other  acid  fruits,  which  have  been  pre- 
viously packed  in  their  raw  state  in  the  jars,  and  seal  jars  air-tight. 

To  make  Preserves  of  Citron  or  Watermelon  Bind. 

After  the  citron  is  peeled  weigh  it ;  to  each  pound  allow  a 
pound  of  sugar,  an  ounce  of  green  ginger  root,  a  lemon,  and  halt 
a  pint  of  water ;  scrape  the  ginger  root  and  tie  it  in  a  clean  cloth 
with  the  yellow  rind  of  the  lemon  pared  very  thin ;  squeeze  the 
juice  of  the  lemon  and  strain  it ;  put  the  sugar  and  water  over 
fire  and  let  them  heat  together  and  begin  to  boil,  removing  all 
scum  as  it  rises ;  when  the  syrup  is  free  from  scum,  put  in  the 
citron  rind,  ginger  and  lemon  peel  and  juice,  and  boil  all  together 
until  the  citron  looks  clear,  removing  any  scum  which  may  rise. 
Then  let  the  preserve  cool  in  the  kettle,  put  it  into  glass  jars, 
leaving  the  ginger  and  lemon  with  it,  if  their  flavor  is  desired, 
distributing  them  among  the  jars  of  citron. 

The  watermelon  rind  is  preserved  in  the  same  manner. 

Sherry  Wine  Jelly — From  the  French. 

Dissolve  to  each  quart  of  water  one-half  pound  of  granulated 
sugar,  then  stir  in  two  ounces  of  gelatine,  broken  in  small  pieces, 
squeeze  the  juice  of  a  medium  sized  lemon  into  this,  grate  the 
rind  of  this  lemon  and  add  to  this  mixture.  Stir  well,  place  the 
vessel  on  a  hot  stove  to  boil.  Take  the  white  of  two  eggs,  first 
beat  well  in  separate  dish,  and  add  to  the  above.  Also  grate  in  a 
saltspoonful  of  nutmeg,  add  six  cloves,  one  bay  leaf,  mixing 
well  for  one  or  two  minutes.  Have  in  readiness  a  jelly  bag  tied 
on  a  jelly  stand,  or  two  kitchen  chairs  will  answer.  Stir 
preparations  in  the  vessel,  when  it  comes  to  a  boil  set  it  back  to  a 
cooler  part  of  the  stove  to  prevent  it  overflowing.  Put  in  three 
or  four  china  marbles;  these  will  act  as  automatic  stirrers  and 


44  Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves. 

keep  the  mass  from  burning  or  candying ;  leave  boll  for  about 
six  or  seven  minutes.  Place  another  vessel  under  the  jelly  bag, 
pour  into  the  jelly  bag  the  hot  mixture,  immediately  adding  to  it 
a  half  pint  of  good  sherry  wine  and  a  teaspoonful  of  burned 
sugar.  Allow  all  to  drain  into  the  vessel,  then  pour  this  back 
into  the  bag,  and  allow  it  to  drain  through  again  for  about  two 
hours  in  another  vessel.  Have  a  quart  jelly  mold  in  readiness, 
pour  jelly  into  same  and  allow  it  to  cool  for  two  hours,  keeping 
mold  covered  and  set  into  your  refrigerator  for  two  hours  to 
harden.  Then  place  mold  carefully  into  warm  water,  not  hot, 
nearly  up  to  the  top  for  a  minute,  then  turn  the  jelly  into  a  des- 
sert dish,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

To  make  champagne,  Jamaica  rum,  brandy  or  other  wine 
jellies,  use  the  same  formula  only  adding  the  wine  you  desire  to 
flavor  it  with. 

Burned  Sugar. 

Put  into  your  vessel  one  pound  of  sugar  and  place  on  a  slow 
fire  to  burn  thoroughly  for  about  thirty  to  thirty-five  minutes  (a 
small  frying  pan  is  best  to  use) ;  then  take  pan  from  stove  to  cool 
for  about  six  minutes  and  add  a  half  pint  of  water  stirring  well. 
Put  back  on  stove  and  allow  to  boil  six  minutes  more,  stirring  it 
constantly ;  take  from  stove,  drain  through  a  fine  sieve  into  an- 
other vessel  and  allow  it  to  cool.  Then  place  into  Mason  jars, 
seal  and  keep  until  ready  to  use  ;  it  will  keep  for  nearly  a  month. 

Apple  Jelly. 

Take  five  large-sized  apples,  cut  them  into  small  pieces  and 
add  to  them  nearly  one  pint  of  cold  water,  place  vessel  on  hot 
stove,  and  when  this  comes  to  a  boil  skim  clean  and  add  in  about 
one-quarter  of  a  lemon,  and  allow  all  to  boil  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes,  stirring  well  to  prevent  burning  ;  place  a  sieve  over  an- 
other vessel,  pour  this  mixture  into  sieve  and  allow  it  to  drain 


Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves.  45 

about  twenty  minutes.  Add  into  the  vessel  about  one  pound  of 
granulated  sugar,  and  replace  on  the  stove  and  allow  it  to  boil 
down  about  one- half ;  it  usually  takes  from  thirty  to  thirty-five 
minutes.  Take  this  from  the  fire,  pour  into  stone  crock,  cover 
mouth  of  crock  with  cotton  batting  and  keep  in  cool  place. 

Brandied  Green-Gage  Plums. 

Choose  perfectly  sound  green-gage  plums,  not  quite  ripe ; 
wash  them  in  cold  water,  and  wipe  them  dry ;  have  plenty  of 
peach  or  vine  leaves  washed  and  drained  ;  in  the  bottom  of  a 
preserving  kettle  put  a  layer  of  leaves  three  deep  ;  weigh  the 
plums,  and  to  each  pound  allow  a  piece  of  alum  as  large  as  a  grain 
of  corn ;  put  the  plums  and  leaves  into  the  kettle  in  layers,  with 
the  alum  pulverized  and  sprinkled  among  them ;  cover  the  last 
layer  of  plums  with  a  layer  of  leaves  three  deep,  and  pour  over 
them  just  enough  cold  water  to  cover  them;  spread  a  clean 
towel  over  the  top  of  the  kettle,  and  then  fit  on  a  perfectly  tight 
cover  to  keep  in  the  steam ;  place  the  kettle  on  the  back  of  the 
stove,  where  its  contents  will  heat  gradually,  and  steam  them  for 
two  hours  ;  do  not  allow  the  plums  to  boil,  or  they  will  soften  and 
break ;  when  they  are  quite  green,  drain  them  and  cool  them, 
and  put  them  into  wide-mouthed  jars. 

Make  a  syrup  as  follows  :  For  each  pound  of  plums  allow 
half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  half  a  pint  of  water ;  put  them  into  a 
preserving  kettle,  and  boil  and  skim  the  syrup  until  it  is  clear ; 
then  cool  it,  and  add  to  it  an  equal  measure  of  the  best  French 
brandy  ;  when  both  plums  and  syrup  are  quite  cold,  fill  the  jars 
with  the  syrup,  and  then  cork  and  seal  them  air-tight. 

Pear  Jam. 

Peel,  quarter,  and  core  perfectly  ripe  pears ;  weigh  them,  and 
then  pack  them  closely  into  an  earthen  jar ;  place  the  jar  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  over  the  fire,  and  let  it  remain  until 


46  Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves. 

the  fruit  is  soft  enogh  to  break  apart ;  then  put  an  equal  weight 
of  sugar  over  the  fire,  with  a  pint  of  water  to  each  pound  of 
sugar,  and  skim  it  until  it  forms  a  clear  syrup  ;  put  the  pears  into 
the  syrup,  and  stir  them  frequently  until  they  boil ;  after  they 
begin  to  boil,  stir  them  constantly,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes ; 
then  partly  cool  the  jam,  and  put  it  up  as  already  directed. 

Plnm  Jam. 

Wash,  dry,  and  weigh  the  plums ;  allow  three-quarters  of 
their  weight  in  sugar  ;  put  the  plums  over  the  fire,  and  boil  them 
gently  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  stirring  them  often  enough 
to  prevent  burning ;  remove  the  stones  as  they  rise  to  the  sur- 
face, and  crack  one-fourth  of  them  ;  at  the  end  of  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  put  in  the  sugar,  and  continue  to  boil  the  jam  for 
fifteen  minutes,  stirring  it  constantly,  and  removing  all  scum  as 
it  rises ;  five  minutes  before  it  is  done,  put  in  the  kernels ;  when 
the  jam  is  partly  cool,  put  it  in  jars ;  when  it  is  quite  cold,  lay 
paper  dipped  in  brandy  in  each  jar,  and  seal  them  air-tight 

Sugared  Quinces. 

Select  sound,  firm  quinces :  wipe  them  with  a  wet  cloth,  pare 
them,  cut  them  in  eighths,  and  core  them ;  put  the  cores  and 
parings  into  a  small  cloth  bag,  and  boil  them  with  the  quinces, 
which  must  be  put  over  the  fire  in  a  preserving  kettle,  with  boil- 
ing water  enough  to  cover  them,  and  boiled  gently  until  they  are 
tender,  then  drain  and  cool  them ;  after  they  are  cool,  weigh 
them,  and  allow  an  equal  amount  of  granulated  sugar;  when  the 
quinces  are  quite  cold,  put  them  into  glass  or  earthen  jars  in 
layers  with  the  sugar,  and  cover  the  jars  air-tight. 

To  Test  Jelly. 

Drop  a  spoonful  in  a  glass  of  cold  water ;  if  it  goes  to  the  bot- 
tom without  mixing  with  the  water  it  is  done;  or  ^lace  a  spoon- 


Jellies,  Jams  and  Preserves.  47 

ful  in  a  cold  saucer  ;  if  it  hardens  without  spreading  it  is  done. 
It  is  always  best  to  stew  or  boil  berries  or  fruit  sauces,  also 
jellies,  in  earthen  crocks ;  be  sure  and  not  have  them  glazed.  Boil 
water  several  times  in  them  before  using ;  this  will  temper  them. 

Apple  Butter. 

Take  nine  gallons  of  cider,  boil  down  one-third ;  add  to  the 
boiling  cider  three  gallons  of  apples  that  have  been  pared  and 
quartered ;  boil  rapidly  for  two  hours,  so  as  to  prevent  them 
from  sinking ;  when  they  commence  to  sink,  stir  so  as  to  prevent 
them  from  burning;  add  sugar  and  spice  to  suit  the  taste,  stir  con- 
stantly until  the  mass  is  reduced  to  a  thick,  smooth  pulp — this 
generally  takes  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes.  Place  in  crocks  and 
tie  cotton  batting  over  the  mouth  of  crock. 

Tomato  Butter. 

One  bushel  ripe  tomatoes,  one-half  bushel  of  ripe  apples,  five 
pounds  of  brown  sugar,  one  ounce  cinnamon,  one  ounce  allspice, 
one  ounce  cloves ;  first  allow  tomatoes  to  come  to  a  boil,  then 
add  the  apples  peeled  and  cored ;  let  cook  together,  watching 
very  carefully  for  about  three-fourths  of  a  day,  then  add  the 
sugar  and  allow  to  boil  until  juice  is  cooked  out  of  them  ;  one 
hour  before  taking  off  add  the  spices. 

Apple  Butter  from  Dried  Apples. 

Four  pounds  dried  apples,  two  pounds  of  dried  pumpkin, 
allow  to  soak  twelve  hours  with  water  covering  same;  add 
one  gallon  glucose,  one  quart  of  boiled  cider,  one  quart  of  syrup, 
six  pounds  brown  sugar,  one-quarter  pound  gelatine,  a  little  mixed 
spice  to  suit  the  taste  ;  boil  slowly  one  hour  or  more,  stirring  all 
the  time. 


PICKLING,  CHOW-CHOW  AND  CATSUPS. 


To  Test  the  Proper  Strength  of  Cider  or  Wine  Vinegar. 

Vinegar  should  be  from  fifty  to  sixty  grain  strong ;  if  over 
sixty  grain  it  is  too  strong  ;  if  under  fifty,  it  is  too  weak  for  pick- 
ling purposes.  To  test  same  take  one  hundred  and  thirty-five 
grains  bicarbonate  of  soda,  (baking  soda),  have  druggist  weigh  it 
for  you,  and  stir  this  in  small  proportions  gradually  into  a  large 
tumbler  that  contains  exactly  two  ounces  of  the  vinegar  you 
desire  to  test.  If  it  effervesce,  or  foams  quickly,  overflows  the 
glass,  goes  down  quickly  and  absorbs  all  the  baking  soda,  it  is 
too  strong,  and  in  that  case  add  one-quarter  filtered  rain  water 
to  three-quarters  of  this  vinegar  before  using.  If  it  foams  up 
gradually,  goes  down  gradually,  comes  down  slowly,  falls  flat  and 
does  not  absorb  the  baking  soda,  it  is  too  weak  and  should  be 
used  for  table  or  cooking  purposes  only.  But  if  it  foams  up 
gradually  and  don't  overflow  much,  comes  down  gradually, 
absorbs  all,  or  nearly  all  the  soda,  it  is  the  proper  strength  for 
pickling  purposes. 

The  Test  to  Ascertain  if  There  is  Acid  in  Vinegar. 

Take  one  ounce  of  acid  called  muriate  barium  and  mix  this 
with  two  ounces  of  water  ;  put  in  bottle  and  cork  it.  When  de- 
siring to  test  vinegar,  take  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  you 


Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups.  49 

desire  to  test  and  drop  into  the  vinegar  five  drops  of  the  above 
solution  ;  if  the  vinegar  turns  a  milkish  color,  there  is  sulphuric 
acid  in  it. 

To  Prepare  Tinegar  for  Pickles. 

Take  one  pound  of  green  ginger  cut  up  and  dried,  one  pound 
of  horse  radish  cut  up  and  dried,  one  pound  of  mustard  seed 
mashed  and  dried,  one  ounce  of  white  pepper  whole,  one  ounce 
of  mace,  one  ounce  of  grated  nutmeg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
turmeric,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  celery  seed,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
allspice,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cloves,  two  pounds  of  brown 
sugar,  two  gallons  of  vinegar  and  shallots  to  taste,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  alum.  Keep  this  in  the  sun  and  shake  daily.  Pre- 
pare this  vinegar  early  in  the  summer,  keep  in  closed  crocks  until 
ready  for  using. 

To  Strengthen  Yinegar. 

Let  it  freeze  and  take  the  ice  off  the  top,  as  the  water  alone 
freezes. 

Potato  Yinegar. 

Two  gallons  of  water  that  potatoes  have  been  boiled  in,  one 
pound  brown  sugar,  a  cup  of  hot  yeast.  In  three  or  four  weeks 
you  will  have  most  excellent  vinegar.  Cucumbers  cut  fresh  from 
the  vines,  without  salt,  will  keep  in  this  vinegar. 


Beet  Yinegar. 

Take  one  bushel  of  sugar  beets,  wash  and  grate  them  into  a 
cheese  or  cider  press.  Put  the  juice  into  a  cask,  cover  the  bung 
with  netting  and  set  in  the  sun.  In  two  or  three  weeks  you  will 
have  five  or  six  gallons  of  good  vinegar. 


50  Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups. 

i 

Spiced  Vinegar. 

Two  gallons  cider  vinegar,  two  and  one-quarter  pounds 
brown  sugar,  one  and  one-half  ounces  celery  seed,  one  and  one- 
half  ounces  cloves,  one  and  one-half  ounces  mustard,  one  and  one- 
half  ounces  mace,  one  and  one-half  ounces  pepper,  one  and  one- 
half  ounces  turmeric,  one  and  one-half  ounces  white  ginger.  Put 
the  spices  in  small  loose  muslin  bags  in  the  jar  with  the  vinegar 
and  sugar. 

The  Most  Improved  Method  for  Making  Pickles. 

Make  a  brine  of  four  pails  of  water,  six  quarts  of  salt,  a  piece 
of  alum  size  of  an  egg,  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  saltpetre,  and 
stir  until  thoroughly  dissolved.  Test  to  see  if  brine  is  strong 
enough  ;  see  that  it  will  balance  an  egg  or  a  small  potato.  Put 
in  your  small  or  medium-size  cucumbers,  and  leave  in  from 
fourteen  to  twenty-four  hours,  according  to  how  salty  you  de- 
sire same.  Then  transfer  pickles  into  a  vessel  of  fresh  cold  water 
for  twenty- four  hours,  mixing  grape  leaves  in  water  as  follows  :  A 
layer  of  grape  leaves  and  a  layer  of  pickles,  and  so  on  until  ves- 
sel is  full.  The  last  five  hours  of  the  twenty-four,  put  a  piece  of 
ice  on  top  of  pickles  large  enough  to  chill  them  ;  this  will  harden 
them.  Boil  the  vinegar  made  as  described,  put  pickles  into  stone 
crocks  or  jars,  pour  hot  vinegar  over  same,  put  a  piece  of  writing 
paper  on  top  of  vinegar,  then  a  thick  layer  of  cotton  batting,  and 
seal  jars  or  crocks.  Tie  cotton  batting  over  mouth  of  crocks. 

You  will  find  by  processing  pickles  by  this  formula  they  will 
not  be  soft,  and  fungus  or  mold  cannot  form  on  top. 

Cucumber  Pickles  (Sweet). 

Select  the  medium,  small-sized  cucumbers ;  for  one  bushel, 
make  a  brine  that  will  bear  up  an  egg ;  heat  it  boiling  hot  and 


Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups.  5 1 

pour  it  over  the  cucumbers ;  let  them  stand  twenty-four  hours, 
then  wipe  them  dry;  heat  some  vinegar  boiling  hot,  and  pour 
over  them,  standing  again  twenty-four  hours.  Now  change  the 
vinegar,  putting  on  fresh  vinegar,  adding  one  quart  of  brown 
sugar,  a  pint  of  white  mustard  seed,  a  small  handful  of  whole 
cloves,  the  same  of  cinnamon  sticks,  a  piece  of  alum  the  size  of 
an  egg,  half  a  cupful  of  celery  seed.  Heat  it  all  boiling  hot  and 
pour  over  the  cucumbers  in  jars  and  seal  tight. 

Sliced  Cucumbers — Canned. 

Slice  cucumbers  very  thin,  let  them  stand  about  twelve  hours 
in  weak  solution  of  salt  and  cold  water,  then  place  them  in  col- 
ander and  drain  thoroughly,  then  fill  a  jar  little  over  half  full  of 
the  cucumbers,  heat  vinegar  and  pour  over  them  to  fill  up ;  a 
small  piece  of  horse-radish  gives  them  a  nice  flavor;  you  can  also 
spice  the  vinegar  if  you  desire. 

Sweet  Cucumber  Pickles. 

Take  one  peck  of  small  cucumbers,  and  for  five  mornings 
pour  over  them  a  hot  brine  made  of  one  cup  of  salt  to  one  gal- 
lon of  water;  the  sixth  morning  pour  over  them  hot  vinegar 
enough  to  cover  them  nicely.  The  seventh  morning  take  new 
vinegar,  add  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  brown  sugar,  one-half 
pound  of  white  mustard  seed,  and  one  pound  of  cassia  buds,  heat 
to  boiling  point  and  pour  over  the  pickles,  cover  the  jar  with  a 
cloth  and  in  a  few  days  they  will  be  ready  for  the  table. 

Sweet  Green  Tomato  Pickles. 

Slice  one  peck  of  green  tomatoes,  put  them  in  a  jar  sprink- 
ling through  them  two  cups  of  salt  (they  will  make  their  own 


52  Pickling,  Chow-cJiow  and  Catsups. 

brine),  let  them  lay  over  night,  the  next  morning  let  them  drain 
thoroughly.  Take  one  gallon  of  vinegar,  one  and  one-half 
pounds  of  brown  sugar,  one-half  ounce  of  ground  cloves,  and  one- 
half  ounce  of  ground  cinnamon,  put  the  tomatoes  in  and  cook 
until  they  are  tender;  put  in  a  jar  and  cover  well;  as  soon  as  they 
are  cold,  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Pickled  String  Beans. 

Soak  your  beans  in  salt  water  twenty-four  hours  (brine  strong 
enough  to  balance  an  egg);  pour  off  brine  and  scald  in  good 
vinegar  for  a  few  minutes,  with  a  little  alum  and  spice ;  then 
seal  in  jars  or  crocks,  using  the  same  vinegar.  Use  a  piece  of 
alum  about  the  size  of  a  cherry  for  each  quart  jar.  Spice  to  suit 
taste. 

Watermelon  Pickle. 

Ten  pounds  of  watermelon  rind  boiled  in  pure  water  until 
tender;  drain  the  water  off,  and  make  a  syrup  of  two  pounds  of 
white  sugar,  one  quart  of  vinegar,  one-half  an  ounce  of  cloves, 
one  ounce  of  cinnamon,  the  syrup  to  be  poured  over  the  rind 
boiling  hot  three  days  in  succession,  leaving  them  in  the  syrup 
until  next  day.  The  last  day  when  syrup  comes  to  boil  drop  the 
melon  in  and  let  it  boil  three  minutes ;  then  place  in  stone  jars 
tied  up  with  cotton  batting  as  described. 

Citron  Pickle. 

Pare  the  citron,  cut  it  into  such  shapes  as  are  desired ; 
boil  with  a  teaspoonful  of  alum  to  each  one-half  gallon  until 
tender,  then  drain  well ;  boil  together  for  ten  minutes  two  quarts  • 
of  vinegar,  three  pounds  of  sugar,  three  ounces  of  cassia  buds ; 
then  add  the  citron  and  boil  this  five  minutes  longer.  Put  away 
in  jars  or  crocks  sealed  air-tight. 


Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups.  53 

Ripe  Tomato  Pickles. 

Take  tomatoes  two-thirds  ripe — those  that  are  red  and  firm. 
Put  them  into  very  strong  brine  that  has  been  made  by  boiling 
and  skimming,  and  has  become  perfectly  cold.  Let  them  remain 
in  this  brine  eight  days.  Then  drain  them  and  put  them  into 
very  weak  vinegar  for  twenty-four  hours ;  remove  them  from 
this,  and  lay  them  in  layers  in  stone  jars,  with  sliced  onions  and 
spices  between ;  then  pour  over  them  very  strong  and  cold 
vinegar.  For  every  peck  of  tomatoes  add  one  ounce  of  cloves, 
eight  tablespoonfuls  of  dry  mustard,  one  ounce  of  ground  black 
pepper,  one  ounce  allspice,  and  one  dozen  large  onions  sliced. 

To  Salt  Cucumbers  for  a  Year. 

For  a  butter-tub  of  cucumbers  pour  one  pail  of  boiling  water 
on  one  quart  of  salt  and  one  ounce  of  saltpetre;  let  it  stand 
over  night.  Pick  cucumbers  every  day  and  put  in  until  full.  If 
more  liquid  is  required,  put  in  water,  spread  a  cloth  over,  and 
upon  that  place  a  board. 

Green  Tomato  Pickles. 

One  peck  of  green  tomatoes  and  twelve  large  onions  sliced 
very  thin  or  chopped  ;  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  let  them  stand 
over  night ;  in  the  morning  drain  them.  Have  ready  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  mustard  seed,  one  ounce  each  of  allspice, 
ground  pepper,  cinnamon,  cloves,  ginger,  one  box  mustard  and 
one  pound  of  sugar.  Mix  well  together.  Put  a  layer  of  toma- 
toes and  then  layer  of  spices  alternately;  cover  with  strong  vine- 
gar and  boil  gently  until  transparent. 

To  Make  Mangoes  or  Green  Peppers. 

Let  them  lie  in  salt  and  water  for  about  a  week  (brine  the 
same  strength  as  for  string  beans) ;  then  remove  the  seeds  and 


54  Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups. 

fill  them  with  shaved  cabbage  and  a  little  mustard  seed.     Pour 
over  them  scalding  vinegar,  then  seal  in  jars  or  crocks. 

To  Make  Chow-chow. 

Two  large  cauliflowers,  two  dozen  onions,  two  dozen  pickled 
cucumbers  cut  in  slices,  two  quarts  of  vinegar,  one-quarter  of  a 
pound  of  ground  mustard,  one  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  whole  pep- 
pers, the  same  of  allpsice,  cloves  and  horse-radish  cut  in  small 
pieces ;  boil  the  cauliflower  till  tender ;  then  put  it  in  salt  and 
water  for  twenty-four  hours.  The  onions  are  to  be  sliced 
and  laid  in  salt  and  water  two  days.  Put  the  mustard  in  the 
vinegar ;  let  it  come  to  a  boil ;  then  pour  it  over  the  cauliflower, 
spices,  etc.  Pick  the  cauliflower  in  pieces. 

To  Pickle  Onions. 

Peel  and  boil  small  onions  in  milk  and  water  ten  minutes. 
Put  to  a  gallon  of  vinegar  one-half  ounce  of  mace,  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  cloves,  five  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  one-half  ounce  of 
alum,  and  turn  the  whole,  boiling  hot,  on  the  onions,  the  water 
and  milk  being  first  drained  bfi,  and  seal  in  jars  or  crocks  air- 
tight 

Chow-chow. 

One-half  bushel  of  green  tomatoes,  one  dozen  peppers,  one 
dozen  onions ;  chop  all  fine  and  salt  over  night  with  one  pint  of 
salt.  In  the  morning  drain  the  mess  from  the  brine  and  put  in 
a  kettle  over  a  fire  with  enough  vinegar  to  stew  same ;  cook 
slowly  for  one  hour,  then  drain  it  from  the  vinegar  and  pack  same 
in  crocks  or  jars.  Then  take  one  pint  of  grated  horse-radish,  two 
pounds  of  sugar,  one-half  cup  of  ground  mustard,  one-half  pound 
of  white  mustard  seed,  two  large  spoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  two 


Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups.  55 

spoonfuls  of  allspice,  one  spoonful  of  cloves,  one  spoonful  of 
black  pepper,  with  enough  vinegar  to  thoroughly  wet  the  chow- 
chow  ;  put  in  a  kettle,  allow  it  to  come  to  a  good  boil,  and  pour 
over  the  chow-chow  in  crock  boiling  hot,  and  seal  with,  cotton 
batting  as  described  in  pickles. 

Pepper  Sauce. 

Six  large-sized  peppers  and  one  hard  head  of  cabbage  chopped 
together.  When  partly  chopped  add  one  and  one-half  teacupfuls 
of  salt,  to  preserve  it,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper, 
one  tablespoonful  of  ground  allspice,  one-half  pound  of  black 
mustard  seed,  one-half  pound  of  white  mustard  seed ;  put  in 
pots  and  cover  with  cold  vinegar ;  cover  tightly. 

It  is  fit  for  use  in  about  one  month. 

Tomato  Catsup. 

To  one  gallon  of  ripe  tomatoes  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
salt,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  ground  black  pepper,  three  tablespoon- 
fuls of  ground  mustard,  one-half  of  a  tablespoonful  of  allspice, 
one-half  of  a  tablespoonful  of  cloves,  six  red  peppers  ground  fine. 
Boil  the  whole  slowly  with  one  pint  of  vinegar  for  four  hours, 
then  strain  it  through  a  sieve.  Bottle  and  cork  tight. 

Tomato  Catsup. 

To  one-half  bushel  of  tomatoes  (it  is  not  necessary  to  skin  the 
tomatoes)  add  five  large  onions,  cutting  all  up  together,  and  boil- 
ing them  for  four  hours ;  strain  them  through  a  wire  sifter,  and 
to  each  quart  of  juice  put  two  tablespoonfuls,  of  fine  salt,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  ground  black  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  each  of 
cloves,  allspice  and  mustard,  ground,  one  teacupful  of  vinegar, 


56  Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups. 

and  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  pepper ;  put  all  on  together, 
and  boil  for  six  hours.  Have  bottles  ready,  and  bottle  and  cork 
up  well  while  hot. 

Currant  Catsup. 

Pick  over  and  wash  five  pounds  of  currants  ;  put  them  in  a 
porcelain-lined  kettle,  add  three  pounds  of  sugar,  one  pint  of 
good  vinegar,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  cinnamon,  mace  and 
black  pepper,  then  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Boil  all  together 
until  the  fruit  is  well  cooked ;  then  bottle  tightly. 

Spiced  Currants. 

Five  pounds  of  currants,  four  pounds  of  sugar,  one  pint  of 
vinegar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cloves.  Boil  one  and  a  half  or 
two  hours. 

For  Making  Chilli  Sauce. 

One  peck  of  ripe  tomatoes,  six  onions,  five  red  peppers,  one- 
half  pint  of  horse-radish,  one  and  a  half  pints  of  vinegar,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  if  desired,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  one  tablespoonful  of  allspice,  one 
tablespoonful  of  ginger,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  mace,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  cloves,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg;  peel  toma- 
toes and  onions,  remove  seeds  from  peppers,  chop  fine,  add 
spice,  vinegar,  salt  and  sugar.  Boil  slowly  four  hours  and  stir 
continually  or  it  will  burn.  Bottle  or  can  while  it  is  hot,  sealing 
jars  the  same  as  for  fruit ;  always  have  your  jars  or  bottles  hot 
beforehand;  if  the  flavor  of  celery  is  liked  add  one-half  dozen 
stalks  and  roots ;  if  celery  is  used  add  one-half  pint  of  vinegar 
extra. 

To  Make  Mushroom  Catsup. 

Lay  alternate  layers  of  mushroom  and  salt  in  an  earthen-  ware 
jar,  using  one-fourth  pound  salt  to  each  quart  of  mushrooms. 


Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups.  57 

After  six  hours  break  them  into  pieces,  and  set  them  in  a  cool 
place  for  three  days,  stirring  every  morning.  Next  strain,  and 
to  every  quart  of  the  juice  add  one-half  ounce  each  allspice  and 
ginger,  one-half  teaspoonful  powdered  mace  and  one  teaspoonful 
cayenne  pepper ;  put  into  a  closely  covered  stone  jar,  set  in  a 
vessel  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  briskly  for  five  hours;  then 
empty  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  and  simmer  gently  for  one- 
half  hour  more ;  let  it  stand  over  night  in  a  cool  place,  drain  off 
the  liquor,  and  fill  jars  or  bottles  to  the  mouth,  and  seal  air-tight ; 
keep  in  cool,  dark  place. 

Cold  Catsup. 

(Using  no  heat  to  make  same.  This  formula  cost  the  author 
five  dollars). 

One  peck  good  tomatoes,  one  cup  chopped  celery,  six  medium 
size  onions,  two  pounds  brown  sugar,  one  cup  salt,  one  cup  Eng- 
lish mustard  seed,  two  quarts  of  best  cider  or  wine  vinegar,  three 
red  peppers,  two  ounces  of  ground  cinnamon ;  chop  the  toma- 
toes, and  drain  in  a  colander ;  chop  the  onions  and  peppers  to- 
gether very  fine.  After  a  greater  part  of  the  juice  of  the  toma- 
toes has  been  drained  off,  mix  all  the  ingredients  with  the  toma- 
toes, bottle  and  seal  air-tight ;  wrap  and  keep  in  cool  place. 

In  case  you  should  have  any  trouble  with  it  fermenting  add 
the  acid  in  the  quantity  as  directed  in  preventing  fermentation ; 
but  I  find  it  will  keep  nicely  without  acid  if  the  formula  is  used 
as  directed. 

Tomato  Catsup  (Using  Heat). 

Two  quarts  tomato  pulp,  one  onion  cut  fine,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  brown  sugar,  boil  until  thick  ;  take  from  fire,  strain  through 
sieve,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  mustard,  one  tablespoonful  of  all- 
spice, one  tablespoonful  of  black  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  ground 
cinnamon,  one  teaspoonful  ground  cloves,  one-half  teaspoonful  of 


58  Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups. 

cayenne  pepper,  one  grated  nutmeg,  one  pint  good  wine  or  cider 
vinegar,  and  boil  all  together  until  fine  enough  to  run  from  the 
mouth  of  a  bottle  ;  it  should  be  stirred  often  enough  to  prevent 
burning,  and  be  sealed  in  jars  while  hot 

About  Vinegar. 

Never  boil  vinegar  over  six  minutes,  as  it  reduces  the 
strength  to  boil  longer.  If  you  think  vinegar  is  too  weak  after  it 
is  poured  over  pickles,  turn  it  off,  prepare  new  vinegar  and 
spices  as  described,  and  pour  over  the  pickles.  In  boiling  the 
spices  in  vinegar,  tie  them  in  a  muslin  cloth. 

To  Make  Vinegar  from  Tomatoes. 

Press  ->ut  the  juice  from  ripe  tomatoes  in  a  clean  pan  or  dish. 
Keep  it  in  a  moderately  warm  place  for  one-half  day  and  it  will 
turn  into  vinegar;  add  one  gill  of  molasses  to  each  quart  of 
vinegar. 

To  Make  Cider  Vinegar. 

Put  enough  cider  in  a  barrel  or  keg  to  fill  within  a  gallon  of 
its  capacity ;  it  will  gradually  sour  in  four  to  six  months ;  then 
rack  it  off,  either  keeping  it  in  casks  or  demijohns.  Whenever  it 
thickens  or  gets  mothery,  draw  it  off  again  and  put  it  in  a  clean 
vessel ;  if  it  is  not  acid  enough  add  two  ounces  brown  sugar  to 
every  gallon. 

To  Determine  Whether  Vinegar  is  Vegetable  or  Made 

of  Acids. 

Take  a  glass  bottle  that  is  perfectly  clear ;  put  in  your 
vinegar,  take  it  to  the  light,  or  use  a  small  microscope.  If  you 


Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups.  59 

can  see  any  signs  of  animal  life  in  the  shape  of  little  wigglers, 
called  pollywogs,  that  is  good  vegetable  vinegar,  as  no  life  can 
exist  in  acid  vinegar. 

To  Make  Vinegar  for  Household  Purposes  in  Three  Weeks 
—Not  to  be  Used  for  Tickling. 

Take  one  quart  of  molasses,  one  pint  of  yeast,  to  three  gal- 
lons of  warm  rain  water ;  put  this  mixture  in  a  keg  or  barrel  with 
bunghole  open,  and  protect  it  with  gauze,  as  described  on  page  59. 

How  to  Soften  Rubbers  and  Make  them  Nearly  as  Good  as 

New. 

Take  about  one  teaspoonful  of  pure  ammonia  to  about  one 
pint  of  water.  Drop  in  rubbers  and  let  stand  for  few  minutes. 
If  one  fits  loosely  put  in  two  rubbers  instead. 

If  Yinegar  is  Too  Strong,  How  to  Weaken. 

To  every  gallon  of  strong  vinegar  pour  in  a  quart  of  filtered 
rain  water. 

To  Keep  up  a  Constant    Supply  of  Vinegar,   as  made   on 
Page  58,  called  "Cider  Vinegar." 

When  about  two-thirds  of  the  cask  or  the  barrel  of  cider 
vinegar  is  used,  mix  to  the  other  one-third  vinegar  left  the  fol- 
lowing :  to  every  eleven  gallons  of  soft  water  add  one  gallon  of 
molasses,  used  in  this  proportion  to  fill  up  barrel ;  this  mixture 
will  become  good  vinegar  in  about  three  weeks.  If  the  barrels 
stand  on  end  there  must  be  a  hole  made  in  the  top  protected 
with  gauze  to  keep  out  insects ;  if  standing  on  side,  bung-hole 
must  be  kept  open,  and  similarly  protected. 


60  Pickling,  Chow-chow  and  Catsups. 

Mixed  Pickles. 

Three  hundred  small  cucumbers,  four  large  green  peppers, 
sliced  fine,  two  large  heads  of  cauliflower  broken  in  small  pieces, 
three  heads  of  white  cabbage  shredded  fine  (the  cabbage  can  be 
left  out  if  you  wish),  two  quarts  small  onions,  one  quart  or  more 
of  small  string  beans  cut  in  small  pieces,  one  quart  of  small  green 
tomatoes  sliced.  Put  this  all  in  a  pretty  strong  brine  twenty- 
four  hours.  Drain  three  hours,  then  sprinkle  in  one-quarter 
pound  black  and  one-quarter  pound  of  white  mustard  seed,  one 
tablespoonful  of  black  ground  pepper.  Let  the  whole  come  to  a 
boil  in  just  enough  vinegar  to  cover,  with  a  little  alum  put  in. 
Drain,  and  when  cold  mix  a  pint  of  ground  mustard  as  for  table 
use,  and  put  in,  cover  the  whole  with  good  cider  vinegar. 

Pickled  Grapes. 

Take  firm,  ripe  grapes,  pack  closely  in  a  jar  with  grape 
leaves  between  the  layers,  if  you  can  get  them.  To  four  quarts 
vinegar,  add  two  pints  white  sugar,  one  ounce  cinnamon,  one- 
half  ounce  cassia,  one-half  ounce  of  cloves.  Boil  vinegar  and 
spices  well  together,  let  stand  till  cold,  and  pour  over  the  grapes. 

Sweet  Pickle  for  All  Fruits. 

To  every  quart  of  fruit  allow  one  cup  of  white  sugar  and  a 
large  pint  of  good  cider  vinegar,  adding  half  an  ounce  of  stick 
cinnamon,  one  tablespoonful  of  whole  cloves,  and  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  whole  allspice  ;  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  and  pour  it  hot  over 
the  fruit ;  repeat  this  two  or  three  mornings  in  succession,  then 
seal  hot  in  glass  jars  if  you  wish  to  keep  it  for  a  long  time.  The 
fruit  (not  the  liquor)  is  to  be  eaten  and  used  the  same  as  any 


Pickling,  Chow -chow  and  Catsups.  61 

pickle.  Some  confound  this  with  "  spiced  fruit,"  which  is  not 
treated  the  same  ;  one  being  a  pickle,  the  other  a  spiced  preserve 
boiled  down  thick.  Damson  plums  should  be  pricked  with  a 
needle,  and  peaches  washed  in  a  weak  lye  and  then  rubbed  with 
a  coarse  cloth  to  remove  the  fur. 


PICKLING  ALL  KINDS  OF  FRUITS. 


Pickled  Plums. 

Seven  pounds  of  plums,  each  pricked  several  times  with  a 
fork ;  prepare  spices  same  as  for  pears,  and  put  in  the  kettle  one 
pint  vinegar,  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling  point,  add  three  pounds 
of  sugar,  and  when  boiling  hot  pour  upon  the  plums.  Repeat 
this  for  two  successive  mornings ;  the  last  day  put  in  the  plums 
and  boil  until  tender. 

Pickled  Peai*s. 

Pare,  halve  and  core  the  pears;  take  seven  pounds  of  fruit 
thus  prepared ;  sew  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  cinna- 
mon, one  tablespoonful  of  cloves,  one  tablespoonful  of  allspice, 
and  a  little  mace  in  a  loose  muslin  bag ;  put  it  in  a  kettle 
with  one  quart  of  vinegar,  heat  it  slowly  to  a  boiling  point, 
then  remove  the  spice-bag,  add  one  and  one-half  pounds  of 
sugar,  and  when  boiling  hot  put  in  one-half  of  the  pears  and 
the  spice-bag.  Boil  until  the  fruit  is  tender,  not  soft,  skim 
out,  and  add  the  remainder  of  the  pears,  keep  in  a  stone  jar, 
and  paste  paper  or  cloth  over  the  top  of  jar,  or  tie  three  folds  of 
cotton  batting  over  mouth  of  jar. 

Pickled  Peaches. 

Stick  two  cloves  and  two  pieces  of  cinnamon  in  each  peach, 
then  weigh  the  peaches,  allowing  one-half  a  pound  of  sugar  to 


Pickling  all  Kinds  of  Fruits.  63 

each  pound  of  peaches  ;  put  the  sugar  in  enough  vinegar  to  dis- 
solve it,  then  pack  the  peaches  in  a  crock,  pour  the  vinegar  and 
sugar  over  them,  and  let  them  boil,  setting  the  crock  in  water, 
until  soft.  As  soon  as  they  are  cold  put  a  cloth  over  the  top  of 
them,  set  them  away  with  cover  on,  and  in  a  few  days  they  will 
be  ready  for  the  table. 

Spanish  Pickles. 

Slice  one  peck  of  green  tomatoes,  break  in  small  parts  four 
cauliflowers,  one  peck  of  small  onions,  one  peck  small  cucum- 
bers, each  to  lay  separately  for  twenty-four  hours  in  weak  solu- 
tion of  salt  and  water ;  then  let  them  drain  thoroughly,  and 
put  them  in  stewpan  in  layers,  sprinkling  through  them  one 
ounce  of  ground  cloves,  one  ounce  ground  cinnamon,  and  one 
pound  of  white  mustard  seed  ;  cover  with  vinegar,  and  boil 
until  they  are  tender ;  then  skim  all  out  into  jars,  and  cook 
the  remainder  of  the  pickles  in  the  same  vinegar ;  when  all 
is  cooked  throw  out  the  old  vinegar,  and  take  two  gallons 
of  cider  vinegar,  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  and  stir  in  one  pound 
of  ground  mustard,  one  pound  of  C  sugar,  one-half  cup  of  flour, 
having  first  dissolved  this  in  a  little  vinegar,  and  stir  it  in  slowly 
while  the  vinegar  is  boiling,  and  while  hot  pour  it  over  the  pickles 
and  stir  thoroughly. 

Pickled  Walnuts. 

Take  white  walnuts,  fresh  and  tender,  put  them  in  salt  and 
water  for  three  days ;  then  put  in  the  sun  until  they  turn  black  ; 
use  the  proportion  of  one-half  pound  of  mustard  seed,  two  ounces 
pepper,  one-half  ounce  mace,  one-half  ounce  nutmeg  and  a  good 
stalk  of  horse-radish,  and  boil  in  four  quarts  of  vinegar;  cover  the 
walnuts  closely,  and  let  them  remain  three  or  four  weeks  ;  pour 
off  the  liquid  for  catsup,  if  desired,  and  bottle  it,  covering  the 
walnuts  again  with  cold  vinegar. 


64  Pickling  all  Kinds  of  Fruits. 

Cantaloupe  Pickles. 

Take  seven  pounds  melons  after  they  are  peeled  and  cut  in 
shape  (they  must  be  nearly  ripe),  and  lay  same  in  a  weak  brine 
over  night ;  then  put  them  in  alum  water  made  from  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  alum  to  two  quarts  of  water,  and  allow  to  boil  about 
one-half  hour ;  take  out  of  water,  put  in  another  vessel,  and  pour 
over  the  melon,  boiling  hot,  the  following :  Three  pounds  sugar, 
one  quart  vinegar,  two  ounces  cinnamon  bark,  one  ounce  pounded 
mace,  and  one  and  a  half  ounce  whole  cloves,  and  allow  to  scald 
altogether  about  fifteen  minutes  on  back  of  stove,  then  seal  in  jars. 

Pickled  Strawberries  and  Red  Raspberries. 

Ten  pounds  of  berries,  four  pounds  of  sugar,  one  pint  vine- 
gar, one-half  ounce  whole  cloves,  one  ounce  stick  cinnamon  ; 
heat  the  vinegar,  sugar  and  spices  in  a  preserving  kettle,  add  the 
berries,  simmer  thirty  minutes,  put  into  jars  and  seal. 

Pickled  Blackberries  and  Huckleberries. 

Ten  pounds  of  berries,  four  pounds  of  sugar,  one  pint  vinegar, 
one-half  ounce  cloves,  one-half  ounce  cinnamon  ;  heat  the  vine- 
gar, sugar  and  spices  in  a  preserving-kettle,  add  the  berries,  let 
boil  gently  for  fifteen  minutes,  pour  into  jars  and  seal. 

Pickled  Limes  or  Lemons. 

Six  lemons  put  into  brine  that  will  bear  an  egg,  let  remain 
six  days,  stirring  every  day ;  then  boil  fifteen  minutes  in  two 
quarts  of  water,  boiling  when  put  in  ;  remove  and  put  into  a  cloth 
till  cold,  boil  up  sufficient  vinegar  to  cover  the  lemons,  allowing 
to  each  quart  two  teaspoonfuls  scant  cloves,  two  teaspoonfuls 


Pickling  all  Kinds  of  Fruits.  65 

white  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  mace,  one  tablespoonful  of  bruised 
ginger,  one  tablespoonful  of  mustard  seed,  a  few  scrapings  of 
horse-radish  root,  and  a  clove  of  garlic ;  pour  over  boiling  hot,  tie 
down  securely ;  they  will  not  be  ready  for  use  for  nearly  a  year. 

How  to  Absorb  and  Purify  the  Damp  Air  in  Cellars  or  Closets 
so  Fruits,  Vegetables  and  Meats  will  not  be  Affected. 

Take  four  one-gallon  crocks  and  place  one  in  each  corner  of 
the  cellar,  fill  each  crock  about  three-quarters  full  chloride  of 
lime ;  this  will  absorb  the  moisture  and  purify  the  air.  In  large 
closets  one  crock  will  be  sufficient ;  change  lime  every  six  weeks. 

Caution  in  the  Preparation   of  Catsups,  Pickles  and  Other 

Vegetables. 

In  preparing  catsups,  pickles,  etc.,  vessels  of  glass,  earthen- 
ware or  stoneware  only  should  be  used,  as  salt,  vegetables,  juices 
and  vinegar  rapidly  corrode  in  copper  and  render  the  results 
poisonous.  Nothing  in  the  shape  of  copper,  lead  or  pewter 
should  be  allowed  to  come  in  contact  at  any  time — even  a  plated 
copper  spoon  left  in  a  bottle  of  catsup  or  pickles  will  in  time  ren- 
der its  contents  poisonous,  resulting  in  attacks  of  colic,  diarrhoea 
and  vomiting. 

To  Prevent  Fermentation. 

The  following  is  a  reliable  formula  for  preventing  tomatoes, 
corn,  vegetables,  catsup,  mince  meat,  chili  sauce  and  other  veg- 
etable compounds ;  also  syrups,  cordials,  spiced  fruits  and  other 
fruit  compounds  from  fermenting :  Take  five  grains  of  salicylic 
acid  and  dissolve  into  one  dessertspoonful  of  pure  alcohol  for  each 
one  quart  of  the  above.  Put  this  solution  in  just  after  taking  any 
of  the  above  mentioned  vegetables,  syrups  or  compounds  while 


66  Pickling  all  Kinds  of  Fruits. 

hot  from  the  stove,  preparatory  to  rilling  into  your  jars  or  bot- 
tles (pouring  the  solution  in  while  your  syrups  or  compounds 
are  hot  evaporates  the  alcohol  and  leaves  no  taste),  seal  jars  or 
bottles  air-tight,  and  keep  in  a  dark,  dry  place ;  temperature 
should  be  from  forty  to  seventy  degrees ;  one  dessertspoonful  is 
equal  to  two  teaspoonfuls. 


FRUIT  JUICES  AND  BEVERAGES. 


One  of  the  most  important  duties,  and  one  which  should  not 
be  neglected  by  any  housekeeper,  is  the  putting  up  a  full  stock 
of  unfermented  drinks  made  from  the  juices  of  fruits.  Physicians 
have  recognized  their  value  for  medicinal  purposes,  and  prescribe 
them  to  the  sick  and  convalescent,  as  they  combine  nutriment 
with  digestibility,  and  are  very  appetizing. 

All  kinds  of  berries  are  especially  desirable,  and  in  the  pre- 
paration of  same,  select  only  choice  fruit  in  prime  condition. 

The  best  method  is  to  mash  your  fruit  or  berries  in  a  vessel ; 
place  vessel  into  another  deep  vessel  containing  hot  water,  allow- 
ing the  water  to  come  up  to  about  one  inch  from  top  of  vessel 
containing  the  fruit,  and  allow  it  to  remain  until  fruit  is  thoroughly 
scalded  (not  boiling) ;  strain  through  a  jelly  bag  or  piece  of 
cheese  cloth,  and  allow  it  to  strain  all  it  will,  without  squeezing, 
into  a  vessel ;  it  will  take  quite  a  long  time  ;  then  take  the  ves- 
sel, set  on  hot  stove,  allow  juice  to  come  to  a  boil,  skim  off  the 
impurities  and  allow  to  boil  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  longer, 
putting  in  the  china  marbles  as  described  in  jellies,  which  will 
keep  the  juice  from  burning  ;  then  strain  into  your  hot  fruit  jars 
or  bottles  and  seal  air-tight.  You  can  do  without  sugar,  but  it 
is  best  to  use  some,  and  add  the  sugar  hot  and  prepared  in  oven 
as  described  in  jellies.  The  most  popular  formula  is  one-half 
pound  of  sugar  to  each  one  quart  of  syrup  ;  less  can  be  used  with 
good  results. 


68  Fruit  Juices  and  Beverages. 

To  Filter  Water,  Syrup  or  Fruit  Juices. 

Procure  from  your  druggist  filtering  paper ;  the  paper  is 
folded  in  funnel  shape  and  laid  inside  of  a  funnel,  which  is  placed 
in  neck  of  bottle  or  mouth  of  jar,  and  the  liquids  allowed  to  filter 
through  paper.  I  find  for  filtering  syrup  a  clean  piece  of  thin 
chamois  is  excellent.  The  chamois  must  be  washed  in  borax 
water  each  time  it  is  used,  then  thoroughly  rinsed  in  fresh  water. 

Raspberry  Vinegar. 

Cover  any  quantity  of  raspberries  with  vinegar  and  let  them 
stand  over  night ;  then  squeeze  them  through  cheese  cloth,  add 
one  pint  of  sugar  to  one  pint  of  the  juice  and  boil  well ;  skim 
clean  and  seal  air-tight  in  jars  or  bottles. 

To  Make  Fruit  Syrup  and  Keep  it  for  an  Indefinite  Time. 

Prepare  the  juice  from  any  kind  of  berries  or  fruits  as  directed 
in  making  unfermented  wines,  and  after  the  syrup  has  come  to  a 
boil  add  one  pound  of  sugar  to  each  quart  of  juice;  allow  to  boil 
slowly  on  back  of  stove  for  about  fifteen  minutes  and  seal  in  jars  or 
bottles  air-tight.  In  using  for  drinks  add  one-third  of  this  juice 
to  two-thirds  ice  water,  or  the  juice  is  very  nice  to  flavor  pud- 
dings and  sauces. 

Lemon  Syrup. 

Grate  only  the  yellow  part  of  four  lemon  rinds,  mix  that  with 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar  and  add  a  little 
over  a  pint  of  water ;  allow  it  to  boil  until  it  thickens,  strain  and 
add  the  juice  of  the  four  lemons,  being  careful  not  to  add  the  pulp 
or  seeds ;  allow  this  to  boil  ten  or  twelve  minutes  and  seal  air- 
tight. 


Fruit  Juices  and  Beverages.  69 

To  Make  Lemonade. 

To  each  tumbler  or  cup  add  one-third  full  of  the  lemon  juice 
and  fill  up  with  ice  water ;  sweeten  to  taste. 

Another  Recipe  for  Preparing  Lemon  Syrup. 

To  each  quart  of  pure  lemon  juice  add  two  pounds  of  granu- 
lated sugar  ;  allow  come  to  a  boil,  skim  clean,  boil  ten  minutes  lon- 
ger, and  seal  air-tight. 

Orange  Syrup. 

Select  juicy  oranges  in  prime  condition,  and  dissolve  to  each 
quart  of  juice  two  pounds  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  two  good  sized 
lemons  ;  allow  this  to  boil  for  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes,  skim  clean, 
filter  through  filtering  paper  in  funnel  placed  in  your  bottles  or 
fruit  jars,  and  seal  air-tight. 

Blackberry  Cordial. 

To  one  quart  of  blackberry  juice  add  one  pound  of  granulated 
sugar,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  cloves,  allspice,  cinnamon  and 
nutmeg;  boil  all  together  fifteen  minutes;  remove  vessel  from 
stove,  add  in  one  wineglassful  of  brandy,  whiskey  or  rum ;  bottle 
while  hot  and  seal  jars  air-tight ;  use  only  one  of  the  liquors 
mentioned  and  see  that  it  is  of  the  best  quality. 

To  Make  Unfermented  Wine. 

Select  grapes  in  prime  condition  picked  fresh  from  the  vines, 
or  those  that  have  been  picked  within  twenty- four  hours.  Wash 
well  after  taking  them  from  stem ;  then  to  every  six  pounds  of 
grapes  use  a  little  over  a  pint  of  water,  put  this  in  porcelain  or 
agate  vessel  on  top  of  hot  stove,  allow  to  come  to  a  boil,  skim 
off  the  impurities,  use  the  marbles,  set  vessel  back  and  allow  it  tr 


7O  Fruit  Juices  and  Beverages. 

boil  slowly  for  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes  longer ;  be  careful  to 
skim  syrup  clean;  remove  the  seeds  and  skins  from  juice  and 
allow  them  to  drain  all  they  will,  and  filter  the  juice  separately  as 
described.  Then  allow  the  juice  again  to  come  to  a  boiling  point, 
add  in  your  hot  sugar,  about  a  cupful  granulated  sugar  to  each 
quart  of  juice,  and  seal  in  bottles  or  fruit  cans  air-tight.  Keep 
in  a  cool,  dark  place. 

Raspberry  Shrub. 

Put  one  quart  of  vinegar  to  three  quarts  of  ripe  raspberries ; 
after  standing  a  day,  strain,  adding  to  each  pint  one  pound  of 
sugar ;  boil  about  one-half  hour,  skim  until  clear  while  boiling ; 
one  wineglass  of  brandy  to  each  pint  of  the  shrub.  When  cold, 
two  spoonfuls  of  this  mixture  with  a  tumbler  of  water  is  an  ex- 
cellent drink. 

To  Make  Grape  Wine. 

One  gallon  of  grapes  from  the  stems,  one  gallon  of  water, 
three  pounds  of  sugar  to  each  gallon.  Mash  the  grapes  and  then 
put  on  the  water,  and  let  them  stand  three  days,  being  stirred 
well  and  mashed  each  day.  Then  strain  and  pour  on  the  sugar, 
and  let  it  stand  over  night.  Then  skim  off  and  put  into  a  barrel, 
and  skim  every  day  until  fermentation  ceases.  Then  bung  tight 
until  ready  for  use. 

Elderberry  Wine. 

Seven  pounds  of  berries,  two  gallons  of  warm  water,  seven 
pounds  of  sugar  to  every  two  gallons  of  the  mixture,  and  pre- 
pare the  same  as  in  formula  for  grape  wine. 

Mead. 

Three  pounds  of  brown  sugar,  six  gills  of  molasses,  three  pints 
of  water,  or,  if  to  be  had,  the  same  quantity  of  a  decoction  of 


Fruit  Juices  and  Beverages.  71 

sarsaparilla,  four  ounces  of  tartaric  acid.  Pour  one-half  of  a  pint 
of  the  water,  or  of  the  decoction,  boiling  hot  on  the  acid,  and  the 
remainder  on  the  sugar  and  molasses.  Heat  gently,  and  skim 
when  cool.  Add  the  acid,  and  bottle.  To  each  bottle  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  the  essence  of  sassafras,  or  any  pleasant  essence 
you  please. 

How  TO  USE. — Pour  two  tablespoonfuls  into  a  tumbler,  add 
one-third  or  half  of  a  tumbler  of  cold  water,  then  add  one-third  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  stir  and  drink. 

Spruce  Beer. 

Two  gallons  of  water,  one  pint  of  molasses,  one  teacupful  of 
yeast ;  about  an  ounce  of  the  essence  of  spruce.  Let  it  stand  in 
the  sun  half  a  day.  Then  bottle. 

To  Make  Cordial  and  Wine  from  Orange  Juice. 

A  sweet,  pleasant  cordial  may  be  made  from  the  juice  of  the 
sour  orange.  The  usual  formula  is  to  add  three  gallons  of  water 
to  one  of  juice  of  sour  oranges,  and  then  three  pounds  of  white 
sugar  to  each  gallon.  After  fermentation,  bottle  and  use  after  a 
few  months.  A  formula  for  converting  the  juice  of  the  sweet 
orange  into  wine,  which  is  said  to  be  worthy  of  the  name,  is  as 
follows  :  Take  of  sweet  orange  juice  and  water  equal  parts,  and 
add  three  pounds  of  pure  sugar  to  each  gallon,  in  a  tight,  full 
barrel,  with  a  bent  tube  from  a  bunghole  to  a  vessel  of  water. 
When  the  gas-bubbles  cease  to  show  in  the  water,  the  barrel 
must  be  closed  and  put  away  for  several  months,  when  the 
liquor  can  be  drawn  off,  bottled  and  corked  tight.  The  bottles 
must  be  kept  in  a  cool  place  till  wanted  for  use. 

How  to  Make  Unfermented  Drinks. 

There  is  a  method  of  preserving  the  juice  of  fruits  for  use  as 
an  unfermented  beverage,  which  applies  to  most  fruits,  especially 


72  Fruit  Juices  and  Beverages. 

the  orange.  The  juice  is  pressed  out  of  the  fruit  before  cooking. 
To  one  quart  of  juice  is  added  one  pint  of  water  and  a  half  pint 
of  sugar  ;  if  very  sour  add  a  little  more  sugar.  The  juice  is  then 
bottled  hot,  corked  tight  and  sealed. 

Pineapple  Cider. 

To  each  pineapple  rind,  chopped  in  small  pieces,  add  two 
quarts  of  cold  water  and  allow  to  stand  until  it  ferments,  which 
will  take  about  three  days  in  warm  weather  ;  strain  off  the  water, 
add  about  one-third  pound  sugar  to  each  quart  of  liquid,  then 
bottle,  fasten  the  corks  down  with  wire  or  string,  allow  bottles  to 
remain  lying  on  their  sides  for  three  days,  and  then  it  will  be 
ready  to  serve. 

Pineapple  Rum. 

Select  a  ripe  pineapple,  slice  it,  put  in  glass  jar  and  pour  over 
the  best  rum  so  it  will  be  completely  covered,  seal  jars  and  allow 
it  to  remain  three  days.  Have  a  syrup  in  readiness  made  from 
one  and  one-quarter  pounds  of  sugar  to  one  pint  of  water.  Boil 
syrup  until  it  is  clear  and  strain  it  through  cheese  cloth,  and  allow 
it  to  cool.  Now  strain  the  liquor  from  the  pineapple,  pressing 
the  fruit  so  as  to  extract  all  the  juice,  then  mix  the  juice,  liquor 
and  syrup  together,  adding  a  half  pint  of  lemon  juice  to  same, 
and  also  about  one  quart  more  rum,  and  bottle  for  use.  Use 
one-third  of  this  concoction  to  two-thirds  iced  water  for  summer 
drink. 

Mulled  Cider. 

To  every  quart  of  cider  add  a  handful  of  cloves,  and  allow  it 
to  come  to  a  boil.  Then  beat  six  eggs  and  add  sugar  sufficient 
to  make  very  sweet ;  when  they  are  beaten  very  light  pour  the 
boiling  cider  over  the  eggs  and  stir  well  by  pouring  this  from  one 
vessel  to  another  until  frothy,  and  serve  while  warm. 


Fntit  Jtdces  and  Beverages.  73 

Grape  Cordial. 

To  the  juice  of  four  pounds  of  grapes  add  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar  and  two  coffee  cups  of  cold  water.  Ice  same  and  you 
will  find  this  a  delicious  drink. 

A  Healthy  Summer  Drink  to  Satisfy  Thirst. 

To  each  pint  of  cold  water  mix  one-half  cup  of  good  vinegar, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  ginger,  and  six  teaspoonfuls  of  granulated 
sugar  and  keep  covered  in  cool  place. 

Raspberry  Nectar. 

Pour  over  two  quarts  of  ripe  raspberries  one  quart  of  vinegar. 
Let  stand  until  the  fruit  ferments,  strain,  and  to  every  pint  of 
juice,  add  three-quarters  pound  of  granulated  sugar ;  allow  to 
simmer  on  back  of  stove  twenty  minutes  and  bottle  while  hot  and 
seal  air-tight. 

Mixed  Fruit  Syrups. 

Mix  cherries  and  strawberries  or  raspberries  and  cherries  or 
currants  and  raspberries,  and  take  out  the  juice  as  described  in 
preparing  fruit  juices.  Add  the  proper  proportions  of  sugar,  boil 
specified  time  and  seal. 

Pineapple  Syrup. 

Cut  the  pineapple  in  small  pieces  and  to  each  three  pounds 
add  one  quart  of  water,  boil  until  very  soft.  Mash  and  filter  in 
another  vessel  and  to  each  pint  of  syrup  add  from  three-quarters 
to  one  pound  of  granulated  sugar.  Boil  to  a  rich  syrup,  bottle 
and  seal  air-tight. 

Blackberry  Syrup. 

Select  fresh,  ripe  blackberries  and  crush  them ;  and  to  each 
pint  of  berries  add  four  ounces  of  boiling  water ;  let  them  stand 


74  Fruit  Juices  and  Beverages. 

twenty- four  hours,  stirring  frequently.  Then  strain  the  juice  and 
to  each  quart  of  juice  add  one-half  pound  of  granulated  sugar ; 
boil  slowly  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  bottle  while  hot  and  seal 
air-tight  Syrup  from  other  berries  can  be  prepared  in  the 
same  manner,  adding  one-quarter  pound  more  sugar  to  the  above 
proportions  for  the  acid  fruits.  When  serving,  add  to  each 
tumbler  one-third  of  this  juice  and  two-thirds  iced  water. 

Ginger  Nectar. 

To  five  gallons  of  water  dissolve  eight  pounds  of  granulated 
sugar,  the  whites  of  three  eggs  well  beaten  and  strained,  mix 
all  together  and  allow  come  to  a  boil.  Skim  clean,  then  put  in 
one-quarter  pound  of  ginger  and  boil  twenty  minutes.  When 
cool  put  in  the  juice  and  yellow  of  two  large-sized  lemons,  also 
one  tablespoonful  of  good  yeast,  stir  well  together,  bottle  and 
seal  air-tight. 

Pineapple  Lemonade. 

Boil  slowly,  two  pounds  of  sugar  to  one  quart  of  cold  water 
until  it  forms  a  thin  syrup ;  skim  clean.  When  the  syrup  is 
boiled  to  the  proper  consistency,  add  the  juice  of  six  large 
lemons,  no  seeds,  add  this  syrup  over  the  pineapple,  prepared 
as  follows :  take  two  nice  pineapples,  cut  out  the  eyes  and  grate 
them  into  a  bowl,  allow  to  stand  for  three  hours,  then  add  two 
quarts  of  ice  water,  mix  well,  strain  it  through  cheese  cloth,  and 
it  is  ready  to  serve. 

Currant  Water. 

Pick  over  a  pint  of  raspberries,  and  strip  a  quart  of  currants 
from  the  stems ;  bruise  the  fruit  in  a  preserving  kettle  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  pour  over  it  two  quarts  of  cold  water,  add  half 
a  pound  of  sugar,  and  set  the  kettle  over  a  moderate  fire  where 


Fruit  Jttices  and  Beverages.  75 

its  contents  will  heat  gradually ;  after  the  currant  water  begins 
to  boil,  remove  the  kettle  from  the  fire,  pour  its  entire  contents 
into  a  flannel  jelly  bag,  and  let  the  currant  water  drain  through 
the  bag.  When  it  is  quite  clear,  cool  it  and  ice  it ;  add  sugar  to 
taste,  and  use  it  cold  as  a  summer  or  temperance  drink. 

Currant  Shrub. 

To  each  quart  of  currant  juice  prepared  as  directed  in  fruit 
juices,  add  about  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  stirring  the 
sugar  until  well  dissolved.  Allow  it  to  cool,  and  when  nearly 
cold,  add  nearly  two  quarts  of  good  rum.  Filter  into  bottles  and 
seal  air-tight. 

To  Boil  Cider. 

Take  the  fresh,  sweet  cider  and  boil  it  until  it  is  nearly 
reduced  one- quarter  of  its  original  quantity,  skimming  clean  as 
scum  rises ;  allow  it  to  cool.  Bottle  and  seal  air-tight. 

I  find  that  using  three  grains  salicylic  acid  to  each  quart  will 
keep  it  from  souring. 

To  Prevent  Cider  and  Other  Liquids  from  Souring  and 
Fermenting. 

Cleanse  your  casks  with  hot  water ;  then  bore  a  hole  one- 
half  an  inch  in  diameter  about  an  inch  from  top  of  barrel ;  in  this 
hole  fix  a  tin  tube  air-tight,  allowing  it  to  project  out  about 
three  inches,  and  to  this  tube  attach  a  rubber  tube,  air-tight, 
making  the  rubber  tube  long  enough  to  fall  into  a  basin  of  water 
placed  on  the  outside  at  bottom  of  barrel ;  pour  in  your  liquid 
until  about  three-fourths  full,  and  every  day,  especially  if  the 
cider  or  vinegar  is  new,  pour  in  an  extra  gallon  of  same  for  two 
or  three  days,  until  liquids  have  quit  fermenting ;  then  make 


j6  Fruit  Juices  and  Beverages. 

casks  air-tight,  leaving  the  tube  in  the  water  as  long  as  the 
liquid  is  in  the  barrel,  changing  water  every  two  weeks.  Before 
drawing  liquid,  bore  a  small  hole  in  top  of  barrel.  When 
barrel  is  dry,  before  putting  in  liquids,  fumigate  barrel  with 
vapor  of  brimstone  for  about  ten  minutes. 

I  find  that  adding  to  each  quart  of  cider  three  to  four  grains  of 
salicylic  acid  dissolved  in  a  dessertspoonful  of  alcohol,  or  to  one 
barrel  of  forty-five  gallons,  two  ounces  of  salicylic  acid  dissolved 
into  one  pint  of  alcohol,  will  keep  it  for  a  long  time.  Adding 
raisins  in  cider  helps  to  keep  it  sweet  and  gives  it  a  nice  flavor. 

Roman  Punch. 

Mix  in  a  large  tumbler  one  tablespoonful  each  of  sugar  and 
raspberry  syrup,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  one  teaspoonful  of 
curacoa,  a  wineglassful  of  Jamaica  rum,  and  half  a  wineglassful 
of  brandy.  Fill  the  glass  with  shaved  ice  ;  put  a  teaspoonful  of 
port  wine  on  the  top,  and  whatever  berries  or  fruit  are  in  season, 
and  drink  the  punch  through  a  straw. 

Punch  a  la  Romaine. 

This  beverage  requires  to  be  partly  frozen  in  an  ice  pail  or  an 
ice  cream  freezer.  Mix  two  pounds  of  powdered  sugar  in  the 
juice  of  a  dozen  lemons;  add  the  thin  yellow  rind  and  the  juice 
of  two  oranges,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  ;  then  strain 
the  syrup  thus  made,  and  mix  with  it  the  whites  of  a  dozen  eggs 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth ;  freeze  this  mixture  nearly  solid ;  then 
quickly  stir  into  it  one  bottle  each  of  champagne  and  Jamaica 
rum,  and  serve  the  punch  at  once  in  small  goblets  or  champagne 
glasses.  The  freezing  mixture  is  composed  of  equal  parts  of  salt 
and  pounded  ice  packed  around  the  vessel  containing  the  Roman 
punch. 


Fruit  Jtdces  and  Beverages.  77 

Milk  Punch. 

Two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  one 
wineglassful  of  brandy,  one-half  wineglassful  of  Jamaica  rum. 
Put  the  above  in  a  large  tumbler,  shave  ice  and  fill  tumbler  half 
full,  fill  up  with  cold  milk  and  grate  some  nutmeg  on  the  surface 
of  milk. 

Egg  Nogg. 

The  yolk  of  one  egg,  well  beaten,  one  tablespoonful  of  water, 
one  tablespoonful  of  sugar;  stir  all  together  until  sugar  is  well 
dissolved,  then  mix  in  one-half  wineglassful  of  Jamaica  rum,  one 
wineglassful  of  brandy,  one-third  of  a  glass  of  milk,  beat  the 
white  of  the  egg  until  it  comes  to  a  stiff  froth,  put  it  on  the  egg 
nog  and  serve. 

Pineapple  Brandy. 

Pare  a  large,  ripe  pineapple,  saving  the  rind  to  make  pine- 
apple cider,  and  slice  it  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick ;  then 
weigh  it,  and  use  an  equal  weight  of  powdered  sugar ;  put  the 
fruit  and  sugar  in  layers  in  a  large  glass  jar,  with  sugar  at  the 
bottom  and  top ;  pour  into  the  jar  enough  of  the  best  brandy  to 
stand  an  inch  above  the  pineapple  ;  then  close  the  jar  perfectly 
air-tight,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool,  dry,  dark  closet  for  a  month  or 
longer. 

Use  the  fruit  for  the  table ;  and  the  brandy,  mixed  with  soda 
water  or  seltzer,  for  a  drink  in  hot  weather. 

Currant  Shrub. 

Strip  two  quarts  of  ripe  currants  from  the  stems,  put  them 
into  a  glass  jar,  set  it  in  a  pan  of  cold  water,  and  place  the  pan 
on  the  stove  where  the  water  will  heat  gradually;  let  it  stand 
there  for  an  hour  or  more,  until  the  currants  yield  their  juice  freely ; 


78  Fruit  Juices  and  Beverages. 

then  strain  the  juice,  and  measure  it ;  to  each  pint  add  six 
ounces  of  sugar,  stirring  the  sugar  into  the  cold  water,  and  boil 
it  until  it  becomes  a  syrup  of  medium  consistency,  removing  all 
scum  as  it  rises.  Mix  this  syrup  with  the  fruit  and  brandy,  pour 
the  mixture  into  a  jelly  bag,  and  let  it  run  through  slowly;  then 
bottle  it,  and  cork  the  bottles,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool,  dark 
closet  for  two  weeks  longer.  At  the  end  of  two  weeks,  filter  it 
again,  carefully  pouring  it  from  the  bottles  to  avoid  disturbing 
the  sediment,  and  when  the  liquor  is  quite  clear  and  bright,  bottle 
it  for  use. 

Cider  Cup. 

Mix  together  in  a  large  glass  jug,  or  a  claret  cup,  the  follow- 
ing ingredients  :  one  quart  of  cider,  two  wineglasses  of  sherry  and 
one  of  brandy,  the  thinly  cut  yellow  rind  of  two  lemons,  one 
orange  sliced,  and,  in  season,  six  thin  slices  of  cucumber.  Fill 
the  cup  with  finely  pounded  or  shaved  ice,  sweeten  it  palatably, 
and  serve  it  before  the  ice  entirely  melts  ;  a  glass  of  cura9oa  and 
a  little  grated  nutmeg  may  be  added  if  desired. 

Claret  Cup. 

Mix  together  in  a  claret  cup  one  bottle  of  claret,  one  wine- 
glassful  of  brandy,  the  yellow  rind  of  a  lemon  cut  very  thin,  a 
sprig  of  mint,  and  three  slices  of  cucumber  if  it  is  in  season, 
sugar  enough  to  make  the  cup  palatable,  plenty  of  fine  ice,  and, 
last  of  all,  two  bottles  of  seltzer  water  or  plain  soda.  Serve  the 
claret  cup  as  soon  as  it  is  made. 

Mint  Julep. 

Use  for  an  ordinary  tumbler  half  a  dozen  sprigs  of  fresh 
mint ;  bruise  the  tops  a  little  in  the  glass  with  one  tablespoonful 
of  sugar  and  two  of  water,  using  a  teaspoon  ;  then  pour  in  a 


Fruit  Juices  and  Beverages.  79 

wineglass  and  a  half  of  brandy  ;  take  out  the  mint,  fill  the  glass 
with  shaved  ice,  and  put  the  mint  in  again  with  the  stems  down. 
On  the  top  of  the  julep  arrange  fresh  berries  or  fruits  and  serve. 

Egg  Flip. 

The  yolks  of  four  eggs,  four  tablespoonfuls  sugar,  the  whites 
of  four  eggs,  one  quart  of  fresh  ale  ;  beat  the  yolk  of  the  eggs  and 
sugar  together  until  it  is  like  a  cream,  then  add  the  ale  scalding 
hot,  stirring  constantly,  quickly  whip  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
until  flip  is  smooth,  and  serve  same  ;  don't  have  the  ale  boiling, 
or  it  will  cook  the  egg — when  it  comes  to  a  simmer  is  about  right. 

Hot  Apple  Toddy. 

This  favorite  winter  drink  is  made  as  follows :  Take  the  pulp 
from  a  hot  baked  apple  of  medium  size,  using  a  teaspoon  to  free 
it  from  skin  and  core ;  put  into  a  tumbler  with  an  equal  measure 
of  apple-jack,  a  pleasant  addition  of  sugar  and  grated  nutmeg, 
and  a  little  boiling  water.  A  usual  proportion  for  a  single  toddy 
is  one  finger  of  baked  apple,  two  each  of  apple-jack  and  boiling 
water,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  and  a  grate  of  nutmeg  on  the  top. 

Mulled  Wine. 

Put  a  pint  of  wine  over  the  fire  to  heat  with  a  pint  of  water ; 
meantime,  beat  three  eggs  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar ; 
when  the  wine  is  hot,  but  not  boiling,  pour  it  into  the  eggs,  beat- 
ing the  mixture  constantly ;  if  the  wine  is  too  hot,  it  will  curdle 
or  cook  the  eggs ;  sweeten  the  mulled  wine  to  taste,  grate  a  little 
nutmeg  on  it,  add  a  little  allspice,  and  serve  it  hot. 

Cream  Soda. 

Two  ounces  tartaric  acid,  two  pounds  white  sugar,  juice  of 
one  lemon,  three  pints  water,  boil  together  five  minutes  ;  when 


8o  Fruit  Juices  and  Beverages. 

nearly  cold  add,  after  beating  together  the  whites  of  three  eggs, 
one-half  cup  of  flour  and  one-half  ounce  of  essence  of  winter- 
green,  some  other  essence  may  be  used  if  preferred  ;  after  being 
well  mixed,  bottle  and  keep  in  a  cool  place.  For  a  drink  of  this 
take  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  syrup  to  one  tumbler  of  water  and 
add  one-half  teaspoonful  soda  ;  drink  quickly. 

Orange  Syrup. 

Take  ripe  fruit  and  thin  skin,  if  you  can  get  them,  squeeze 
juice  through  a  sieve,  and  add  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every  pint  of 
juice,  boil  slowly  for  ten  minutes,  skim  carefully,  bottle  when 
cold  ;  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  this  in  a  glass  of  ice  water  is  re- 
freshing ;  it  may  also  be  used  with  melted  butter  for  pudding 
sauce. 


FRUITS  AND  HOW  TO  SERVE. 


FRESH    FRUITS. 

While  fruits  contain  from  eighty  to  ninety  per  cent,  of  water 
and  only  a  small  proportion  of  the  nutritious  properties,  yet  there 
is  nothing  in  the  lists  of  foods  that  is  more  wholesome  or  more 
gratifying  to  the  appetite,  or  that  appeals  more  to  our  sense  of 
beauty.  As  we  have  the  advantage  of  procuring  fresh  fruits  of 
some  kind  nearly  all  the  year  round,  they  should  always  appear 
on  the  daily  bill  of  fare  and  should  be  eaten  before  meals,  as  they 
are  more  rapidly  digested  and  aid  in  the  digesting  of  other  foods 
by  stimulating  the  flow  of  the  digestive  juices. 

Physicians  recommend  the  eating  of  fruits  especially  in  warm 
weather  instead  of  meats,  as  they  assist  in  cooling  the  blood  while 
meat  heats  the  blood.  Fruits  combined  with  vegetables,  bread 
and  cereal  foods  are  recommended  highly  by  the  leading  scientists, 
and  are  especially  recommended  for  rheumatism,  gout,  liver  and 
kidney  trouble,  and  other  blood  affections. 

Fruits  should  be  served  in  their  prime  condition  ;  green  or 
over-ripe  fruits  are  unwholesome,  as  they  contain  from  eighty  to 
ninety  per  cent,  of  water,  and  this  is  liable  to  ferment  and  decom- 
pose in  the  digestive  tract.  Fruits  that  are  commencing  to  decay 
should  not  be  eaten  raw,  but  should  be  well  cooked  to  destroy 


82  Fruits  and  How  to  Serve: 

the  germ  which  is  the  cause  of  putrefaction  or  decay.  Fruits 
should  not  stand  in  a  warm  room  too  long.  It  is  best  after  serv- 
ing to  replace  them  in  the  refrigerator  or  storeroom.  This  will 
arrest  decay  and  keep  the  fruit  much  longer.  All  fruits  should 
be  thoroughly  cleansed  before  serving  by  placing  same  in  a  col- 
ander and  allowing  cold  water  to  run  over  the  fruits  until  per- 
fectly clean. 

The  following  table  shows  the  component  parts  and  nutritious 
properties  of  fruits : 


Apples  

u 

V 

1 
83.0 

^  Album* 

1 
t/3 

6.8 

< 
u 

£ 
i  .0 

1 
o 

1 

5-2 

3           Zv 

3                      V  2 
?                     --J1 

o            2* 

3-2               0.4 

"35   3 

o  ij"5 
~  => 
Z 

T3-  7 

Pears  

8i  o 

O    7 

7O 

O.  I 

4.6 

37                      O    3 

12.  4 

Peaches  

It^.W 

85.0 

"•  j 
0.5 

•*-* 

1.8 

0.7 

8.0 

•  /                      V*O 

3.4              0.6 

13  »9 

80.0 

o.  7 

Glucose. 
13.0 

Tartaric. 
0.8 

3»  * 

2.O                      0.4 

18.2 

plums  

82.0 

O.  2 

3  6 

o«  5 

5*  7 

0.6 

10.8 

Gooseberries  

86.0 

0.4 

*•" 

7.0 

1-5 

1.9 

2.7           0.5 

10.8 

Strawberries  

87.6 

0.5 

4.5 

'•3 

O.  I 

0.6 

10.  I 

Raspberries  

86.+ 
85.2 

o.S 
0.4 

4-7 
6.4 

1-3 
1.8 

'.  7 

O.2 

0.4 
...               0.5 

6.9 
10.7 

Blackberries  

86.4 
75.0 

o.S 
0.9 

4-4 
13.  1 

i.i 
0.3 

1-4 

2.2 

0.4 

0.6 

8.1 
14.8 

Apricots         .... 

85.0 

0.08 

1  .0 

5'9 

0.8 

13.5 

86.0 

0.08 

6  to  8 

0.08 

4.8 

5.4             0.6 

13.4 

Fat. 

Bananas      .  •    ... 

7^1   O 

4.8 

19.7* 

0.6 

O.2                      0.8 

26.7 

/  j*V 

*  Sugar  and  pectose. 


Fresh  Fruits  83 

Pineapples, 

This  is  an  excellent  dessert,  and  considered  wholesome.  It 
is  best  served  by  the  West  Indian  method,  as  the  flavor  and  juices 
are  preserved  better  ;  and,  as  the  beauty  of  the  fruit  is  in  its  shape 
and  color,  this  is  entirely  lost  if  cut  up.  Cut  the  pineapple  from 
the  crown  to  the  base  in  wedge-shaped  slices,  the  middle  being 
left  just  entire  enough  to  hold  the  slices  in  place  until  they  are 
needed  for  serving ;  they  can  then  be  easily  dislodged  with  a  thin, 
sharp  knife  and  fork,  or  another  way  is  to  cut  the  pineapple  in 
horizontal  slices  with  a  very  sharp  knife ;  the  slices  are  to  be 
kept  together,  and  the  crown  to  be  left  on  the  fruit  and  then 
placed  in  the  center  of  a  dish  of  assorted  fruits. 

How  to  Make  Tuita  Fruita,  or  the  Art  of  Preserving  All 
Fruits  as  They  Come  in  Their  Season. 

Take  one  gallon  crock,  or  one  gallon  stone  jar,  first  put  in 
one  pint  of  the  best  alcohol,  then  one  cup  of  sugar  (granulated), 
then  one  cup  of  fruit,  and  then  one  cup  of  sugar,  and  continue  to 
do  this  in  this  way  until  you  are  finished  ;  but  you  use  only  one 
pint  of  alcohol  for  the  gallon  crock  and  this  you  place  in  at  first. 

List  of  fruits  in  their  order  to  be  preserved :  Strawberries, 
red  raspberries,  blackberries,  bananas  and  oranges,  cherries,  plums, 
apricots,  pineapples,  peaches  and  pears ;  always  keep  the  jar  or 
crock  covered,  and  when  you  have  completed  work,  put  a  piece 
of  brandied  paper  on  top  and  cover  crock  securely. 

Iced  Raspberries  for  Dessert. 

Choose  large,  sound  raspberries,  remove  the  hulls,  and  ex- 
amine the  berries  carefully  to  make  sure  they  contain  no  insects ; 
beat  together  the  white  of  an  egg  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold 


84  Fmits  and  How  to  Serve: 

water ;  dip  the  berries  singly  in  the  beaten  egg  and  water,  roll 
them  at  once  in  powdered  sugar,  and  lay  them  apart  from  each 
other  on  sheets  of  white  letter  paper  until  they  are  quite  dry ; 
they  may  dry  slowly,  so  that  it  is  best  to  allow  five  or  six  hours ; 
when  they  are  dry,  keep  them  in  a  cool,  dry  place  until  dinner- 
time, and  then  serve  them  for  dessert. 

Strawberries  with  Whipped  Cream. 

After  hulling  the  berries,  put  them  into  a  glass  or  china  dish 
in  layers  with  powdered  sugar,  and  place  the  dish  in  a  cool  place. 
Mix  together  one  pint  of  cream,  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  whip  the  mixture  for 
one  minute ;  then  let  it  rest  for  a  while,  skim  off  the  froth,  and 
put  it  in  a  colander  set  in  a  bowl ;  again  whip  and  skim  the 
cream,  and  so  proceed  until  all  the  cream  is  whipped,  occasion- 
ally turning  back  into  the  whipping  bowl  the  cream  which  drains 
from  the  colander  ;  keep  the  whipped  cream  very  cold,  and  just 
before  serving  the  strawberries  lay  it  over  them  in  a  light  mass. 

Grape-Fruit  for  Breakfast. 

The  Florida  grape-fruit  makes  a  most  refreshing  dish  for 
breakfast.  It  is  a  clear-skinned,  lemon-colored  fruit,  three  or 
four  times  as  large  as  an  orange,  otherwise  closely  resembling 
that  fruit.  Its  flavor  is  sub-acid,  but  its  juicy  pulp  is  enclosed  in 
a  tough  white  inner  membrane  of  intensely  bitter  taste ;  when 
this  membrane  is  carefully  removed,  the  fruit  is  a  delicious  tonic. 
To  prepare  grape-fruit  for  the  table,  cut  the  skin  in  strips,  and 
peel  it  off;  separate  the  sections  of  the  fruit  like  an  orange,  and, 
holding  each  section  by  the  ends,  break  it  open,  disclosing  the 
pulp  ;  tear  the  pulp  in  rather  small  pieces  out  of  its  bitter  white 
envelope,  carefully  removing  every  trace  of  the  latter,  put  the 


Fresh  Fruits.  85 

pulp  into  a  deep  dish,  with  sufficient  white  sugar  to  suit  the  taste, 
and  allow  to  stand  in  a  cool  place. 

Peaches  and  Oranges. 

Select  the  best  brand  of  canned  peaches,  drain  off  the  syrup 
from  peaches,  dissolve  into  the  syrup  drained  all  the  sugar  that 
it  will  dissolve,  then  peel  for  each  can  of  peaches  six  or  seven 
nice  oranges,  slice  them,  removing  the  seeds ;  put  the  sliced 
oranges  and  peaches  in  layers  on  a  dish  and  dust  with  powdered 
sugar,  pour  the  syrup  over  them  and  serve. 

Currants  and  Raspberries. 

Currants  and  raspberries  served  together,  using  half  and  half, 
make  an  excellent  dish.  Large  red  currants  may  be  served  on 
the  stem,  and  when  it  is  possible  to  get  both  red  and  white  they 
make  a  most  attractive  dish. 

Melons. 

Watermelons  should  be  served  very  cold ;  instead  of  cutting 
through  the  center  into  even  halves,  the  melon  may  be  cut  in 
points  back  and  forth  around  the  entire  circumference,  so  that 
when  separated  each  half  will  appear  like  a  crown.  The  canta- 
loupe should  be  thoroughly  washed  and  wiped  and  laid  on  ice  till 
serving  time.  Do  not  cool  the  melon  by  placing  ice  upon  the 
flesh,  as  the  moisture  injures  the  flavor. 

Plums  and  Grapes. 

Decorate  the  edge  of  fruit  dish  with  grape  leaves  or  leaves 
from  foliage  plants,  and  fill  dish  with  plums  and  bunches  of  grapes ; 
grapes  should  always  be  washed  before  serving.  Drop  the 
branches  into  ice  water  and  let  remain  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 


86  Fruits  and  How  to  Serve: 

Cherries. 

Serve  on  stems,  piled  on  a  high  dish  with  green  leaves  and 
vines  mixed  through  them.  Different  colored  cherries  arranged 
in  rows  forming  a  pyramid  make  a  handsome  dish. 

Apples. 

An  exceedingly  ornamental  dish  can  be  made  by  using  car- 
rot or  celery  tops.  Pile  the  apples  on  the  fruit  basket  with 
sprigs  of  the  green  here  and  there.  Oranges  and  apples  arranged 
in  this  way  have  a  very  pleasing  effect. 

Gooseberries. 

Drop  them  into  cold  water  a  few  moments,  drain,  put  them 
in  a  glass  dish,  serve  with  stem  on ;  when  fresh  and  ripe  the 
gooseberry  is  one  of  the  most  delicious  of  small  fruit. 

Oranges. 

Serve  whole  or  cut  the  skin  in  eighths  half  way  down,  sepa- 
rating it  from  the  fruit  and  turning  it  inward,  showing  half  the 
orange  white  and  the  other  half  yellow ;  or  cut  the  skin  into 
eighths  two-thirds  down,  and  after  loosening  from  the  fruit,  leave 
them  spread  open  like  the  petals  of  a  lily.  Arranged  in  a  fruit 
dish  in  this  manner,  with  the  feathery  tops  of  carrots  or  celery 
here  and  there  through  them,  makes  a  highly  ornamental  center 
piece. 

Peaches  and  Pears. 

Select  nice  large  peaches  and  rub  the  fur  from  them  with  a 
rough  towel;  decorate  the  edge  of  fruit  dish  with  foliage  leaves, 
the  same  tint  as  the  fruit ;  arrange  the  fruit  with  sprays  of  the 


Fresh.  Fruits.  87 

plant  here  and  there.     Yellow  pears  and  rosy  cheeked  peaches 
arranged  in  this  way  are  the  most  ornamental. 

Raisins. 

The  London  layers  are  the  finest  brand  for  the  table. 

Peaches  and  Cream. 

Pare  the  peaches  as  late  as  possible,  as  by  standing  they  be- 
come discolored ;  if  sugar  is  to  be  used  do  not  add  it  until  time 
for  serving,  as  it  starts  the  juice  and  turns  the  fruit  brown  ;  each 
person  should  be  allowed  to  add  the  cream  to  his  own  dish,  as  it 
quickly  curdles  and  renders  the  whole  dish  unsightly. 

Oranges. 

Cut  the  peel  in  quarters  from  the  stem  half  way  downward  ; 
turn  it  outward  leaving  the  white  orange  in  a  little  cap,  from 
which  it  is  easily  taken.  A  fruit  dish  of  oranges  prepared  in 
this  way  makes  an  exceedingly  pretty  center  piece. 

La  Composite. 

Bananas  peeled  and  sliced  thin  sprinkled  with  sugar,  with 
alternate  layers  of  orange  peeled  and  sliced  thin  with  sugar ; 
set  on  ice  before  using. 

Bananas. 

Bananas  may  be  served  sliced  or  whole  by  pouring  sweetened 
cream  over  them. 

Iced  Currants. 

Dip  whole  stems  of  currants  into  beaten  whites  of  eggs,  sift 


88  Fruits  and  How  to  Serve: 

powered  sugar  over  them  ;  set  near  the  stove  to  harden.     Cher- 
ries can  be  done  the  same  way. 

Frosted  Fruits. 

Have  in  one  dish  some  whites  of  eggs  well  beaten,  and  in 
another  some  powdered  sugar ;  take  cherries,  grapes,  plums  or 
apricots,  and  roll  each  one  singly  first  in  the  egg,  then  in  the 
sugar ;  lay  them  on  a  sheet  of  white  paper  in  a  pan  or  tin  dish, 
and  set  near  the  fire  until  the  icing  hardens. 

Ambrosia. 

A  layer  of  peeled  and  sliced  oranges  alternated  with  peeled 
and  sliced  pineapple  ;  sprinkle  each  layer  with  sugar  and  grated 
cocoanut. 

Peaches. 

Just  before  serving,  pare,  cut  in  halves  with  a  silver  knife, 
and  remove  the  pits ;  sprinkle  with  powered  sugar ;  ornament 
the  edges  of  the  dish  with  peach  leaves ;  serve  in  sauce  dishes. 

Melons. 

Melons  may  be  used  as  the  first  course  for  breakfast  dish,  or 
for  dessert  at  dinner.  Do  not  serve  melon  with  fruit. 

Pressed  Figs. 

Select  perfectly  good  figs,  look  over  carefully ;  they  may  be 
served  dry  mixed  with  bunches  of  raisins,  or  they  may  be  steamed 
over  a  kettle  of  water.  For  breakfast  steamed  figs  are  excellent ; 
steamed  raisins  are  also  far  superior  to  the  dried  ones. 


Fresh  Fruits.  89 

Pineapple. 

Pare  the  pineapple,  have  the  eyes  and  the  fibrous  center  taken 
out,  slice  in  large  pieces  and  pile  upon  a  plate.  No  condiments 
are  necessary ;  sugar  even  changes  the  delicate  flavor,  but  the 
pineapples  usually  found  in  the  North  are  so  tart  that  they  require 
a  light  sprinkling  of  sugar  to  suit  most  tastes.  Pineapple  cut  in 
small  pieces  and  lightly  sprinkled  with  sugar  just  before  serving 
makes  a  delicious  dish. 

Berries. 

Raspberries,  blackberries,  dewberries,  blueberries  and  whortle- 
berries require  careful  looking  over  ;  serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 
If  necessary  to  wash  strawberries  put  a  few  in  the  water  at  a  time, 
push  them  down  under  the  water  until  they  are  clean,  remove 
from  the  water,  hull  them  and  use  at  once  ;  serve  with  sugar. 
If  cream  is  used  allow  each  person  to  add  it  to  his  own  dish,  as 
it  quickly  curdles,  and  if  allowed  to  stand  will  impair  the  flavor 
of  the  fruit. 

Iced  Pineapple. 

Select  nice  fruit,  remove  the  outer  shell  and  eyes.  Hold  the 
pineapple  by  the  crown  and  grate  it  into  a  dish ;  then  remove  the 
pineapple  into  a  glass  dish,  sprinkle  a  little  powdered  sugar  on 
same,  pour  a  glass  of  sherry  on  it  and  stand  in  the  refrigerator  for 
two  hours  and  serve  cold. 

Iced  Strawberries. 

Hull  the  berries,  allow  the  water  to  run  over  them  in  a  col- 
ander, place  them  in  a  deep  fruit  dish  and  pour  over  a  wine- 
glassful  of  wine  or  fruit  juice  for  every  two  pounds  of  berries, 
place  them  in  a  refrigerator  for  one  or  two  hours  before  serving. 


90  Fruits  and  How  to  Serve: 

Bananas  and  Oranges. 

Take  six  bananas,  slice  them  crosswise  on  a  dish.  Squeeze 
the  juice  of  two  oranges  on  them,  sprinkle  them  with  sugar, 
place  in  refrigerator  until  ready  to  serve ;  or  you  can  mix  slices 
of  the  oranges  with  the  pineapple  and  serve  with  cream  and 
sugar  or  whipped  cream. 

The  French  Method  of  Boiling  Sugar  and  Making  Syrups, 
to  be  Used  for  Candying  and  Glaced  Fruits  of  all  Kinds ; 
also  Caramels  and  Nougat. 

To  every  two  pounds  of  granulated  sugar  add  one  pint 
of  water;  place  on  stove,  having  a  good  fire.  Have  a  vessel 
handy  containing  two  or  three  quarts  of  ice  water,  and  when  the 
sugar  comes  to  a  boil  dip  the  fingers  of  the  right  hand  into  the 
water  and  quickly  pass  them  all  around  the  inside  of  the  pan, 
but  avoid  touching  the  syrup ;  repeat  this  two  or  three  times ; 
this  is  very  necessary  so  as  to  have  the  sugar  in  proper  condi- 
tion. Take  care  to  dip  the  fingers  into  ice  water  each  time? 
let  the  sugar  come  to  a  boil  and  squeeze  in  five  or  six  drops  of 
lemon  juice.  Then  take  a  thin  piece  of  wood,  the  shape  and 
length  of  a  pencil,  dip  the  point  into  the  ice  water  and  then 
plunge  it  into  the  boiling  sugar ;  remove  it  quickly,  and  dip  it 
immediately  into  the  water  again.  Lift  it  out  again  and  see 
whether  the  sugar  adhering  to  the  wood  be  thoroughly  hard ;  if 
not  let  it  boil  again  and  renew  the  test  as  before.  To  be  posi- 
tive that  the  sugar  is  perfectly  done,  place  the  point  of  the  stick 
with  sugar  on  between  the  teeth  and  bite  it ;  if  it  cracks  easily 
without  sugar  sticking  to  the  teeth  it  is  thoroughly  done.  Then 
remove  vessel  at  once  from  fire  and  set  in  ice  water  so  that 
water  comes  up  about  an  inch  around  outside  of  vessel,  to  pre- 
vent sugar  from  turning  brown  if  you  do  not  use  it  at  once. 


Fresh  Fruits.  91 

The  Method  of  Candying  Fruits,  Tomatoes  and  Nuts. 

Make  syrup  as  described  in  French  method  for  boiling  syrups. 
Then  put  fruit  in  this  syrup  and  boil  from  five  to  ten  minutes, 
according  to  fruit;  then  skim  out  the  fruit,  add  a  little  more 
sugar,  then  boil  down  the  syrup  one-half,  pour  it  over  the  fruit, 
and  let  all  stand  in  a  warm  (not  hot)  oven  till  all  the  syrup  is 
absorbed ;  turn  the  fruit  occasionally.  It  generally  takes  from 
two  to  three  days  to  absorb  the  syrup  and  to  candy.  Then 
pack  away  in  layers,  on  waxed  paper.  It  is  best  to  do  it  in 
the  evening,  and  leave  the  fruit  to  stand  in  a  warm  oven 
over  night,  repeating  two  or  three  nights  till  syrup  is  all 
absorbed ;  in  the  daytime  keep  it  out  of  the  oven  in  a  place 
where  the  temperature  is  about  seventy- five  degrees.  Large 
fruits  and  tomatoes  generally  take  about  three  nights.  Soft  fruits 
boil  five  minutes,  and  hard  fruits  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  after 
placing  in  boiling  syrup ;  judge  according  to  the  fruit.  When 
boiling  the  fruit  for  candying,  do  not  have  too  hot  a  fire,  so  as 
not  to  break  the  fruit.  Leave  skin  on  tomatoes,  berries  and  soft 
fruits;  peaches,  pears  and  hard  fruits,  skin  may  be  taken  off. 
When  the  fruit  are  candied,  put  them  on  layers  of  waxed  paper, 
put  in  tin  boxes,  and  keep  in  temperature  of  sixty-five  degrees ; 
in  summer  in  a  cool  place.  Always  use  the  best  granulated 
sugar.  It  generally  takes  about  twenty  minutes  to  bring  the  syrup 
to  a  proper  boiling  test.  To  remove  skin  from  peaches  or  fruits 
with  soft  skin,  take  a  little  boiling  water  and  soda,  until  strong 
and  feels  slippery,  then  drop  in  a  few  at  a  time,  lift  out  with  a 
skimmer,  and  wipe  with  coarse  towel  until  the  skin  is  off.  The 
syrup  that  is  left  can  be  used  for  canning  fruits. 

Marron  Glace  (Candied  Chestnuts) 

To  candy  chestnuts  or  other  nuts,  make  a  syrup  as  described 


92  Fruits  and  How  to  Serve. 

in  French  method  for  boiling  syrups.     Drop  in  the  nuts,  boil  three 
minutes  and  then  use  the  same  methods  as  in  candying  fruits. 

To  Crystallize  any  Fruit  that  will  Keep  its  Form; 
also  Nuts. 

Make  a  syrup  of  one  cup  of  sugar,  four  tablepoonfuls  of 
water  and  two  of  vinegar ;  when  it  boils  stir  in  a  small  pinch  of 
soda;  stir  as  little  as  possible,  or  the  candy  will  not  be  clear; 
boil  till  it  hairs,  as  described  before.  Separate  the  fruit  from 
the  stems;  grapes,  cherries,  oranges  (whose  quarters  have  been 
separated  about  twenty-four  hours  beforehand,  to  become  dry 
and  hard),  cutting  out  the  seeds  carefully,  so  the  juice  will  not 
escape ;  citron  cut  in  pretty  forms ;  dip  each  fruit  or  piece  of  nut 
in  the  warm  syrup,  and  lay  it  on  waxed  paper  in  a  cool  place 
to  harden.  If  the  first  dipping  is  not  successful  go  over  the 
operation  again,  adding  a  little  more  water  to  the  syrup,  and 
when  it  stands  the  test,  dip  again.  Syrup  can  be  worked  over 
twelve  times  in  case  of  a  failure  of  fruit  crystallizing.  Use  gran- 
ulated sugar.  Don't  stir  syrup  after  it  comes  to  a  boil.  If  your 
syrup  should  candy,  add  a  little  more  water  and  sugar,  and  just 
as  it  is  coming  to  a  boil  drop  in  a  pinch  of  cream  of  tartar  to  the 
quantity  of  syrup  described ;  this  will  prevent  it  from  candying. 
Use  the  same  remedy  in  making  candies. 

N.  B. — Six  drops  of  lemon  juice  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
cream  of  tartar. 


COOKED    FRUITS. 


Boiled  Apples. 

Select  nice  whole  apples,  place  in  pan  with  enough  water  to 
cover  them  and  boil  until  tender,  but  don't  break  them ;  add 
sugar  to  suit  the  taste  and  allow  to  boil  until  apples  are  thoroughly 
penetrated.  Take  apples  from  syrup,  cook  syrup  until  thick, 
and  pour  over  apples.  Do  not  peel  the  apples. 

Boiled  Spiced  Apples. 

Two  dozen  apples,  wiped  clean,  two  coffee  cups  sugar,  one- 
half  coffee  cup  vinegar,  one  dessertspoonful  ground  cinnamon. 
Place  apples  in  kettle  with  water  enough  to  cover  them,  then  add 
the  sugar,  vinegar  and  spice,  and  allow  to  simmer  slowly  until 
soft. 

Baked  Apples. 

Select  nice  tart  apples,  wipe  clean,  and  bake  in  moderate 
oven  until  done  ;  bake  slowly.  When  desiring  to  serve  with 
milk  or  cream  use  sweet  apples. 

Baked  Sweet  Apples. 

Select  nice  sweet  apples,  wipe  them  well,  fill  a  dish  nearly  to 
the  top  with  the  apples,  first  quartering  and  coring  them,  but  do 
not  pare  them.  Set  the  vessel  into  a  kettle  of  water  or  steamer, 
and  steam  until  nearly  soft ;  then  place  the  vessel  containing  the 
apples  in  oven,  covering  same  with  plate.  Let  them  bake  until 
the  juice  is  nearly  absorbed  ;  take  out  and  serve  with  milk,  cream, 
or  whipped  cream. 


94  Fruits  and  How  to  Serve: 

Apples  and  Jelly. 

Twelve  apples,  two  pounds  of  granulated  sugar,  one  quart  of 
water.  Pare,  halve  and  core  the  apples  and  have  them  uniform 
size ;  dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water  and  allow  it  come  to  a  boil, 
and  when  it  boils  add  the  rind  and  juice  of  two  lemons  and  also 
add  the  apples.  When  they  are  tender  take  out  the  halves  one 
by  one,  and  put  concave  side  uppermost  in  glass  dish  ;  drop  a 
bit  of  jelly  in  each  piece,  then  boil  down  the  syrup,  and  when 
cool  pour  around  the  apples. 

N.  B. — Cook  the  apples  slowly  so  they  won't  fall  to  pieces. 

Apple  Ooutes. 

Peel  and  core  some  nice  apples ;  then  halve  or  quarter  them ; 
then  take  slices  of  stale  bread,  trim  off  the  crusts,  butter  the 
bread  and  sprinkle  over  a  little  sugar;  on  each  piece  lay  some  of 
the  apples  flat  side  down  ;  add  a  little  more  butter  and  sugar, 
and  spice  if  desired.  Bake  in  a  slow  oven  and  dust  with  sugar 
before  serving. 

Compote  of  Apples. 

Four  quarts  of  small  apples  (golden  pippins  are  the  best) ;  one 
pound  of  granulated  sugar  ;  put  the  apples  in  stone  crock  pared 
and  cored,  leave  whole ;  cut  the  rinds  of  two  fresh  lemons,  and 
add  with  apples ;  add  the  sugar  over  the  top,  put  on  cover  and 
tie  it  down,  and  set  in  a  slow  oven  for  two  or  three  hours ;  take 
out  and  it  is  ready  to  serve.  The  above  can  be  served  hot  or 
cold  ;  before  serving  dust  it  with  a  little  powdered  sugar. 

Fried  Apples. 

Select  nice  apples,  pare  and  core  same,  and  cut  them  in  thick 
slices.  Put  one-half  cup  drippings  in  frying  pan  when  smoking 


Cooked  Fruits.  95 

hot ;  cover  the  bottom  of  pan  with  slices.  Fry  until  brown  on 
both  sides  ;  take  out  as  soon  as  done  and  put  in  more.  Keep 
apples  hot  and  sprinkle  sugar  over  them. 

Raisins  and  Cranberries. 

Two  quarts  cranberries,  one  pint  raisins,  two  pounds  of 
sugar,  one  quart  of  water.  Cook  in  stone  crock  until  the  berries 
are  well  broken  ;  don't  allow  to  burn.  Then  pour  in  sauce  dish 
to  cool. 

Stewed  Prunes. 

Wash  the  prunes  until  perfectly  clean,  then  cover  them  with 
fresh  water  and  set  on  back  of  stove  to  cook  slowly  for  about 
three  hours  so  they  will  just  simmer.  Thirty  minutes  before 
taking  out  add  sugar  to  suit  the  taste. 

Apples  with  Raisins. 

Take  a  dozen  sour  apples,  pare,  core  and  quarter,  thoroughly 
clean  one-quarter  as  many  raisins  as  apples,  pour  over  the 
raisins  one  quart  of  boiling  water,  and  let  stew  until  they  are  well 
swollen,  then  add  the  apples  and  cook  until  tender ;  add  sugar  to 
suit  the  taste,  but  little  will  be  needed  unless  the  apples  are  very 
sour. 

Baked  Pears. 

Take  ripe  pears,  pare,  cut  in  halves  and  pack  in  deep 
pudding  dish  in  layers,  sprinkle  sugar  upon  each  layer,  add  one 
cup  of  water,  cover  tightly,  and  bake  three  or  four  hours.  When 
cold,  serve  with  sweet  cream. 

Dried  Apples. 

Soak  over  night  dried  apples  and  stew  with  raisins  or  English 
currants ;  this  makes  a  palatable  dish. 


96  Fruits  and  How  to  Serve: 

Boiled  Apples. 

Take  six  tart  apples,  wash  well,  cut  in  halves  and  remove  the 
cores;  do  not  take  the  skins  off.  Cover  with  water  and  boil 
until  tender ;  take  out  in  a  deep  dish  ;  to  the  juice  add  four 
slices  of  lemon,  boil  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  sweeten  to  taste ; 
pour  over  the  apples  ;  when  cool  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Apples  and  Apricots. 

Select  nice  tart  apples,  pare,  core,  and  quarter ;  let  them 
cook,  with  two  halves  of  dried  apricots  to  each  apple  ;  when  well 
done,  rub  through  a  colander  and  sweeten.  If  you  have  no  fresh 
apples,  dried  ones  can  be  used. 

Jellied  Apples. 

Select  nice  apples  and  to  each  pound  of  apples  use  one  pound 
of  granulated  sugar,  mix  alternately  in  layers  in  a  stone  crock, 
put  on  cover  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  three  hours.  It  is  best 
to  make  this  a  day  before  it  is  wanted. 

Lemon  Apple  Sauce. 

Three  quarts  of  sour  apples  that  have  been  pared  and 
quartered  ;  one  lemon,  using  the  juice  and  the  thinly  cut  rind ; 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  granulated ;  one  cup  of 
water.  Stew  these  together  for  about  one-half  hour ;  if  apples 
are  not  juicy  add  more  water ;  do  not  allow  to  cook  quickly. 

Jellied  Cranberries. 

Two  cups  cold  water,  two  quarts  cranberries,  two  pounds  of 
sugar.  Cook  water  and  cranberries  together  in  kettle  ten  minutes, 


Cooked  Fruits.  97 

then  add  the  sugar  and  cook  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  longer ;  pour 
into  mold ;  when  cold  it  will  have  jellied. 

Cranberries. 

In  stewing  one  quart  of  berries  to  one  pint  of  water,  simmer 
gently  until  the  skins  have  all  burst,  and  the  quantity  is  reduced 
to  a  pint ;  to  remove  the  skins,  put  through  a  colander ;  when 
nearly  cool,  add  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  sugar  to  the  quart  of 
berries. 

Cranberries  and  Sweet  Apples. 

Stew  together  equal  parts  of  cranberries  and  sweet  apples, 
mash,  rub  through  a  colander  to  remove  the  skins  ;  sugar  to  suit 
the  taste  can  be  used,  but  it  makes  a  very  palatable  sauce  with- 
out it. 

Baked  Peaches. 

Pare,  cut  in  halves,  remove  the  stones,  and  place  in  layers  in 
a  shallow  dish,  put  a  little  water  over  them,  sprinkle  lightly  with 
sugar ;  cover  and  bake. 

Oranges  and  Apples. 

Select  nice  tart  apples,  use  one-third  as  many  sliced  oranges 
from  which  the  seeds  have  been  removed,  pare,  core,  and  slice 
the  apples  in  quarters,  cook  all  together  gently,  so  as  to  keep  the 
form  of  both  fruits  until  the  apples  are  tender ;  add  sugar  to  suit 
taste. 

Stewed  Crab  Apples. 

Wash,  put  in  stew  kettle  with  just  a  little  water  and  stew  until 
very  soft  Rub  through  a  colander  to  remove  skins  and  seeds ; 
sweeten  to  taste. 


98  Fruits  and  How  to  Serve: 

Stewed  Prunes  and  Plums. 

Two  pounds  prunes,  one  pound  plums,  one  and  one-quarter 
pound  of  sugar.  Wash  them  clean,  cover  with  fresh  water  and 
stew  them  for  thirty  minutes.  Add  the  sugar  a  few  minutes  be- 
fore they  are  done. 

Stewed  Dried  Peaches. 

Just  put  on  enough  water  to  cover  and  stew  about  thirty 
minutes ;  add  the  sugar  to  suit  the  taste  while  peaches  are  cooking. 

Stewed  Pears. 

Select  some  fine  Bartlett  pears  which  are  ripe,  but  have  hardly 
begun  to  soften  ;  remove  the  skins,  cut  in  halves  or  quarters,  and 
take  out  the  seeds.  Put  loosely  in  a  graniteware  kettle,  and 
add  a  pint  of  water  for  three  and  a  half  quarts  of  fruit.  Cover 
closely,  and  when  it  begins  to  boil  set  it  where  it  will  just  sim- 
mer until  the  top  pieces  are  tender.  Serve  cold.  Sugar  will  not 
be  necessary  if  the  fruit  is  of  good  quality. 

Pippins  and  Quince. 

Pare  and  quarter  nice  golden  pippins,  and  cook  in  boiling 
water  until  reduced  to  a  jelly.  Add  two  or  three  quinces  sliced, 
and  simmer  slowly  in  the  jelly  until  the  quince  is  tender.  Add 
sugar  to  taste.  Serve  cold. 

Citron  Apples. 

Take  a  few  sour  apples  of  uniform  size,  wash  well  and  remove 
the  cores  ;  place  in  the  cavity  of  each  apple  a  few  pieces  of 
chopped  citron,  and  then  fill  it  up  with  sugar  ;  put  the  apples  on 
a  flat  graniteware  or  earthen  dish,  with  a  little  water  on  the  bot- 


Cooked  Fruits.  99 

torn.  Place  in  the  oven  and  bake  until  tender,  but  not  till  they 
have  fallen  to  pieces ;  when  cold  serve  in  separate  dishes  with 
sweet  or  whipped  cream  on  each  apple.  Unless  the  skins  of  the 
apples  are  tender,  it  is  better  to  peel  them,  in  that  case,  cover 
them  while  they  are  baking. 

Apples  Stewed  Whole. 

Wash  carefully  six  large  red  apples,  put  them  in  stew  pan  and 
pour  over  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  them,  cover  the  pan, 
and  cook  slowly  until  the  apples  are  soft.  The  skins  will  be 
broken ;  remove  the  apples,  boil  the  juice  to  a  syrup,  sweeten  and 
pour  over  the  apples.  If  you  use  red  apples  the  syrup  will  be  a 
rich  red  color. 

Lemon  Apples. 

Select  sour  apples  of  uniform  size,  remove  the  cores,  and 
wash  thoroughly,  place  in  the  cavity  of  each  apple  a  mixture  of 
grated  lemon  and  sugar,  over  each  apple  squeeze  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice.  Bake  until  tender ;  when  cold,  serve  with  sweet  or 
whipped  cream. 

Steamed  Apples. 

Select  pound  sweets  of  uniform  size,  wipe,  cut  out  the  blossom 
ends,  and  pack  in  a  large  pudding  dish.  Pour  in  a  cupful  of 
water,  cover  the  dish  closely,  set  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  steam 
till  the  apples  are  tender.  Remove  from  the  dish,  and  pour  the 
liquor  over  them  frequently  as  they  cool. 

Compote  of  Apples. 

Select  tart,  juicy  apples,  pare,  extract  the  cores,  put  them  in  a 
deep  dish  with  just  enough  water  to  cover  them,  cover,  place  in 


ioo  Fruits  and  How  to  Serve: 

the  oven,  and  stew  until  they  are  tender.  Remove  the  apples  into 
a  deep  dish,  with  cover  to  keep  them  hot ;  measure  the  juice  and 
pour  it  into  a  saucepan.  Add  a  few  pieces  of  lemon  rind,  and 
boil  until  thickened  nearly  to  a  jelly ;  heat  some  sugar,  one 
tablespoonful  to  each  cup  of  juice,  and  add  to  the  juice  when 
thickened;  pour  scalding  hot  over  the  apples  and  cover  until  cold. 

Baked  Apples. 

Select  tart  apples,  pare,  halve,  and  remove  the  cores. 
Sprinkle  half  a  cup  of  sugar  in  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  lay  the 
apples  flat  side  down.  Pour  over  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  and 
bake  until  tender ;  let  them  stand  until  cold,  take  up  the  apples, 
and  pour  the  juice  over  them. 

Stewed  Raisins. 

Soak  several  hours  in  cold  water  a  pint  of  good  raisins,  cook 
them  in  the  same  water  in  which  they  were  soaked.  Do  not  let 
them  boil,  but  place  them  on  back  of  stove  and  let  them  simmer 
until  the  skins  are  tender ;  three  or  four  figs,  chopped  fine, 
cooked  with  the  raisins,  gives  a  richness  to  the  juice. 

Peaches,  plums,  berries,  cherries,  grapes,  and  all  small  fruit 
may  be  cooked  for  sauce,  by  stewing  in  a  little  water  until  done, 
and  then  add  sugar  to  suit  your  taste. 

Baked  Bananas. 

Select  large  red  bananas,  take  the  skin  off  from  one  section  of 
the  bananas,  and  loosen  the  skin  from  them  ;  put  a  row  in  a  drip- 
ping pan  with  the  side  up  from  which  you  took  the  peeling ; 
sprinkle  with  sugar,  bake  half  an  hour  in  a  quick  oven. 


Cooked  Fruits.  ioi 

Baked  Pears. 

Hard  pears  make  an  excellent  dessert  when  baked.  Pare, 
halve,  remove  seeds,  and  place  in  a  shallow  earthen  dish,  with  a 
cup  of  water  to  each  two  quarts  of  fruit.  If  the  pears  are  sour,  a 
little  sugar  may  be  added.  Bake,  closely  covered,  in  a  moderate 
oven  until  tender.  Serve  with  sugar  and  cream.  Tart  pears 
are  the  best  for  baking,  as  the  sweet  varieties  are  often  tasteless. 

Baked  Quinces. 

Pare  and  remove  the  cores ;  fill  the  cavities  with  sugar,  put 
in  a  shallow  earthen  dish,  and  add  water  to  cover  the  bottom ; 
bake  till  soft,  basting  often  with  the  syrup.  If  the  syrup  dries 
out  before  the  fruit  is  perfectly  tender,  add  a  little  more  hot 
water. 


LIBRARY 


COOKING   AND    HOUSEKEEPING 
SIMPLIFIED 

INCLUDING 

THE   ETIQUETTE  OF  VARIOUS   ENTERTAINMENTS 

RULES  GOVERNING  POLITE  SOCIETY   AND 

ENTERTAINMENTS 

FORMS  OF   INVITATIONS 
MENUS,   ETC. 


COMPILED   BY 

PROFESSOR    H.    I.   BLITS 


PRKKACK. 


In  presenting  this  edition  on  "  Cooking  and  Housekeeping 
Simplified  "  to  the  ladies  of  this  country,  I  do  so  at  the  request 
of  thousands  of  patrons  who  desired  some  practical  formulas  for 
American  cookery  in  all  its  branches — formulas  that  would  be 
simple  and  economical,  and  yet  securing  that  excellence  which 
the  French  and  Italian  chefs  are  noted  for.  There  is  no  lack  of 
cook  books  published  in  this  country,  and  every  paper  of  any 
circulation  publishes  recipes  and  various  formulas  bearing  on  this 
subject.  But  many,  while  they  read  very  nicely  in  theory, 
are  practically  of  no  use,  being  the  reverse  of  simple  and  too 
extravagant  for  the  ordinary  housekeeper  to  follow.  The  for- 
mulas given  in  this  book  have  been  selected  for  their  simplicity 
and  economy,  and  recommended  by  the  leading  French  and 
American  teachers  and  experts. 

Many  of  these  recipes  have  been  purchased  from  some  of  the 
leading  French  chefs,  others  have  been  given  the  author  by 
some  of  the  leading  teachers  and  experts  on  this  subject,  and 
many  have  been  copied  from  the  best  writers  on  cookery. 
I  have  aimed  above  all  to  be  clear  and  concise,  and  to  give  such 
simple  methods  that  an  inexperienced  person  or  even  a  girl  of 
fifteen  years  old  can  follow  them.  In  conclusion,  will  say  that 


Preface. 

any  housekeeper  who  will  follow  the  directions  as  given   need 
have  no  fear  of  their  practical  results. 

PLEASE    READ    CAREFULLY. 

At  the  request  of  many  of  my  patrons,  I  have  procured  at 
quite  an  expense,  from  some  of  the  leading  chefs  of  Europe  and 
this  country,  formulas  for  making  soups,  the  proper  preparations 
of  fish,  meats,  vegetables,  garnitures,  salads,  sauces,  icings  and 
other  fancy  desserts.  They  are  some  of  the  favorite  recipes  of 
these  eminent  chefs,  and  were  procured  after  a  great  deal  of 
labor  and  expense,  some  of  these  having  cost  the  author  as  much 
as  one  hundred  francs  (twenty-five  dollars). 

They  were  selected  carefully,  as  the  author's  object  was  to 
publish  only  the  most  simple,  practical,  and  those  involving  the 
least  expense.  But  housekeepers  must  expect,  in  using  formulas 
adopted  from  the  French  and  Italian,  that  they  will  involve  more 
expense  and  more  labor  than  American  cookery;  but  the  results 
will  amply  repay  them,  as  it  has  been  conceded  that  the  French 
and  Italian  chefs  lead  the  world  in  their  profession,  some  of  them 
being  paid  as  high  as  ten  thousand  dollars  a  year.  I  have  also 
kept  separate,  in  each  classification,  the  French  and  Italian  form- 
ulas, to  avoid  unnecessary  criticism. 

AUTHOR. 


THE    ART    OF 

COOKING    AND     HOUSEKEEPING 
SIMPLIFIED 


THE  KITCHEN,  PANTRY,  AND  CELLAR. 

The  Kitchen. 

The  fitting- up  and  care  of  the  kitchen  have  been  so  often 
treated  by  writers  upon  domestic  matters,  that  comparatively 
little  space  need  be  given  to  the  subject  here — only  a  few  out- 
lines, which  every  housekeeper  can  fill  by  the  exercise  of  her 
own  taste  and  judgment.  If  possible  have  the  kitchen  upon  the 
level  of  the  ground ;  or  if  it  must  be  in  the  basement  of  a  house, 
take  care  that  plenty  of  light  and  air  reach  it.  If  daylight  does 
not  flood  every  corner  of  it,  supply  artificial  light,  even  in  the 
daytime ;  for  no  domestic  operation  requires  more  light  than  the 
treatment  of  food.  Painting  the  woodwork  and  floor  a  light 
color  is  of  use  in  this  particular.  In  some  of  the  modern  houses 
where  there  are  elevators,  the  kitchen  and  laundry  are  placed 
in  the  top  story,  greatly  to  the  comfort  of  all  the  inmates  of  the 
house,  who  thus  escape  all  the  odors  of  cooking  and  washing. 

Equally  with  light  is  cleanliness  important  in  the  kitchen. 
The  walls  of  a  kitchen  should  be  of  some  hard  finish,  either 
paneled  wood,  tiles,  or  plastering  which  can  be  covered  with 
whitewash  or  kalsomine  coloring. 

Any  lime  wash  is  desirable  for  the  kitchen,  because  it  tends 
to  keep  the  air  pure  if  frequently  applied.  The  following  will  be 


io8  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

found  exellent :  Half  fill  a  large  pail  with  quicklime ;  pour 
upon  it  one  gallon  of  water  and  stir  it  until  ebullition  ceases; 
then  stir  in  one  pint  of  linseed  oil,  and  add  enough  more  cold 
water  to  make  the  wash  of  the  consistency  of  thin  paste.  Cop- 
peras water  used  in  place  of  cold  water  will  make  the  wash  disin- 
fectant to  a  certain  degree.  The  use  of  skim-milk  instead  of 
the  first  cold  water  will  make  a  wash  which  will  resist  the  action 
of  water.  Apply  the  wash  with  a  broad,  flat  brush,  moving  it  up 
and  down  the  walls  with  even  strokes.  The  so-called  White 
House  wash  is  made  by  slacking  half  a  bushel  of  quicklime  with 
boiling  water,  keeping  it  covered  until  ebullition  ceases ;  mean- 
time a  peck  of  salt  is  dissolved  in  warm  water,  and  three  pounds 
of  ground  rice  are  made  into  a  thin  paste  by  boiling  it  with 
water ;  a  pound  of  clean  glue  is  dissolved  in  warm  water  at  the 
same  time,  and  half  a  pound  of  Spanish  whiting  is  powdered ;  all 
these  ingredients  are  mixed  together  with  the  addition  of  enough 
boiling  water  to  make  the  mixture  properly  liquid,  and  it  is  then 
strained,  cooled,  and  allowed  to  stand  three  days  in  a  covered 
vessel.  When  the  wash  is  required  for  use,  it  is  heated  in  a 
double  kettle,  and  applied  hot  with  a  flat  brush.  This  wash 
resists  the  action  of  severe  weather,  and  will  serve  in  place  of 
paint  for  walls,  or  wood  or  stonework.  It  may  be  used  for  the 
kitchen  woodwork  if  desired. 

If  the  kitchen  is  already  painted,  and  only  needs  cleaning> 
use  hot  water  and  soap  with  a  flannel  rag.  The  addition  of 
a  handful  of  borax  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  liquid  ammonia 
to  a  gallon  of  hot  water  will  make  a  solution  which  will  clean 
paint  and  glass  quickly  and  well  without  soap.  Wash  oil- 
cloths by  first  rubbing  them  over  with  a  cloth  wet  in  equal  parts 
of  milk  and  water,  and  then  with  another  wet  in  warm  water, 
and  finally  with  a  soft,  dry  cloth  ;  wet  only  a  small  place  at  once, 
and  never  use  a  brush  if  it  can  be  avoided.  Keep  oilcloths 
clean  ordinarily  by  wiping  them  first  with  a  damp  cloth  and 


The  Kitchen.  109 

then  with  a  dry  one ;  but  do  not  apply  soap,  or  use  a  harsh 
brush  or  a  mop.  When  the  paint  has  been  scrubbed  off  oil- 
cloths, and  their  texture  is  still  unbroken,  they  can  be  restored 
by  having  a  coat  of  good  oil  paint  laid  over  them  about  once  a 
year.  Some  durable  bright  color  is  preferable;  and  the  effect 
can  be  heightened  by  having  a  solid  color  for  the  center  and  a 
contrasting  hue  for  the  border.  Rubbing  with  a  few  drops  of 
ammonia  on  a  damp  cloth,  and  subsequent  polishing  with  a  dry 
cloth,  will  clean  windows  easily  and  well.  Kitchen  tables  should 
be  cleaned  every  day  with  hot  water  in  which  either  borax  or 
washing  soda  is  dissolved.  The  sink  should  be  flushed  every 
day  with  boiling  water,  and  a  handful  ot  washing  soda  thrown 
upon  the  strainer  over  the  drain-pipe  before  the  greasy  water  is 
poured  down  it  after  a  meal  is  over.  If  this  point  be  attended 
to,  and  no  scraps  of  refuse  or  grounds  of  tea  or  coffee  are  allowed 
to  pass  into  the  drain-pipe,  housekeepers  will  escape  that  trouble- 
some and  expensive  plumber's  job  of  cutting  out  the  drain-pipe. 
Every  week  in  winter,  and  oftener  in  summer,  a  cupful  of  quick- 
lime or  chloride  of  lime,  or  a  pailful  of  hot  copperas  water, 
should  be  thrown  upon  the  drain.  Copperas  water  is  a  valuable 
disinfectant,  free  from  the  objectionable  odor  and  physical  effect 
of  lime ;  it  is  made  by  placing  the  copperas  in  the  bottom  of  a 
barrel,  and  covering  it  with  water ;  enough  copperas  should  be 
used  to  be  plainly  seen  always  upon  the  bottom  of  the  barrel. 
The  water,  heated  and  poured  in  drains,  sinks,  and  water-closets 
by  the  pailful  once  or  twice  a  week,  will  keep  them  entirely 
free  from  dangerous  emanations:  note  this  when  there  is  a  closet 
upon  the  lower  floor,  or  near  the  kitchen. 

After  every  meal  the  towels  and  dish-cloths  should  be 
washed  in  hot  water  with  soap  and  a  little  borax,  and  they 
should  then  be  well  rinsed  and  dried  in  the  sun  or  air  before 
using  them  again. 

If  kitchen  utensils  are  tarnished  and  discolored,  put  them  into 


no  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

a  large  boiler  containing  hot  water  and  a  handful  of  washing 
soda,  and  let  them  boil  for  a  few  moments ;  then  scour  them 
with  any  of  the  good  kitchen  soaps  made  of  fine  white  silicious 
matter.  Very  fine  ashes,  sand,  or  brick-dust  sifted,  will  answer 
for  scouring  iron  or  copper.  For  tin  and  japanned  or  enameled 
ware,  use  powdered  whiting,  applying  it  with  a  wet  cloth,  and 
then  polishing  with  a  dry  one  or  with  chamois.  Knives  are 
cleaned  with  powdered  Bath  brick. 

To  clean  the  stove,  first  wash  it  with  hot  water  and  soda 
after  it  is  cold,  if  it  is  greasy ;  and  then  blacken  it  with  any  good 
stove-polish,  according  to  the  directions  accompanying  the 
polish,  and  rub  the  steel  fittings  of  the  stove  with  emery-paper. 
To  build  a  fire,  first  let  down  the  grate,  and  take  up  the  ashes 
and  cinders  carefully  to  avoid  raising  a  dust,  sifting  the  cinders 
to  use  in  building  the  fire ;  brush  the  soot  and  dust  out  of  the 
upper  part  of  the  stove,  and  from  the  flues  which  can  be  reached; 
be  sure  that  all  parts  of  the  ovens  and  hot-boxes  are  clean ;  if 
there  is  a  water-back  attached  to  the  stove,  see  that  it  is  filled 
with  water;  if  it  is  connected  with  water-pipes,  be  sure  in  winter 
that  they  are  not  frozen  ;  brush  up  the  hearth-stone.  Lay  the 
fire  as  follows:  Put  a  few  handfuls  of  dry  shavings  or  paper  in 
the  bottom  of  the  grate ;  upon  them  some  small  sticks  of  pine 
wood  laid  across  each  other ;  then  a  few  larger  sticks,  and  some 
cinders  free  from  ashes ;  a  few  small  lumps  of  coke  or  coal  may 
be  mixed  with  the  cinders.  Open  all  the  draughts  of  the  stove, 
close  all  the  covers,  and  light  the  fire ;  when  the  cinders  are 
lighted,  add  fresh  coke  and  coal  gradually  and  repeatedly  until 
a  clear,  bright  fire  is  started ;  then  partly  close  the  draughts. 
To  keep  up  a  fire  add  fuel  often,  a  little  at  once,  in  order  not  to 
check  the  heat :  letting  the  fire  burn  low,  and  then  replenishing 
it  abundantly,  is  a  wasteful  method,  because  the  stove  grows  so 
cold  that  most  of  the  fresh  heat  is  lost  in  raising  the  temperature 
again  to  the  degree  necessary  for  cooking.  Removing  the 


The  Pantry.  in 

covers  of  the  stove,  to  place  a  utensil  nearer  the  fire,  lowers  the 
heat  of  the  entire  surface,  and  affects  the  temperature  of  the 
ovens ;  therefore  flat-bottomed  cooking- utensils  are  the  best,  for 
they  fit  close  upon  the  covered  top  of  the  stove.  Black  iron 
saucepans  cook  more  quickly  than  bright  tin  ones;  coppers 
retain  the  heat,  even  when  brightly  polished,  longer  than  any 
other  metal,  and  are  much  the  more  durable.  Hard  wood  is 
preferable  to  pine  for  cooking  purposes.  Charcoal  is  a  good 
cooking- fuel,  but  is  expensive. 

All  the  kitchen  refuse  should  be  burned,  first  draining  from  it 
the  slops;  and  then,  when  there  is  no  cooking  going  on,  it 
should  be  put  upon  the  back  of  the  fire,  and  all  the  draughts 
thrown  open  so  that  it  can  be  quickly  and  entirely  consumed. 
If  there  is  no  accumulation  of  rubbish  in  the  kitchen,  there  will 
probably  be  no  more  croton-bugs  or  roaches  than  can  be 
destroyed  by  the  persistent  use  of  powdered  borax  and  insect- 
powder. 

The  Pantry. 

Although  -cleanliness  in  the  kitchen  is  generally  enforced 
in  well-regulated  households,  the  same  care  is  not  always 
extended  to  those  necessary  repositories  of  food,  the  pantry,  the 
refrigerator  and  the  cellar.  The  drains  too  often  contaminate 
the  latter,  all  kinds  of  food  are  gathered  indiscriminately  in  the 
ice-box,  and  the  pantry  has  too  many  dark  corners.  Then, 
again,  the  pantry  is  too  often  located  so  near  the  kitchen  as  to 
receive  more  or  less  heat  from  that  room.  This  access  of  heat 
should  be  guarded  against  as  far  as  possible,  because  it  greatly 
interferes  with  the  preservation  of  food.  When  it  is  impossible 
to  have  the  pantry  or  storeroom  a  little  removed  from  the 
kitchen,  the  two  rooms  can  be  separated  by  double  doors,  or  at 
least  with  a  door  furnished  with  a  spring  which  will  always 
close  it. 


1 1 2  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

The  pantry  should  be  so  placed  as  to  receive  plenty  of  light 
and  air  to  keep  it  free  from  dampness,  but  it  should  not  be  so 
exposed  to  the  sun  as  to  make  it  hot  enough  at  any  season  to 
affect  its  contents.  If  there  is  not  a  storeroom  proper,  a  large, 
light  closet  should  be  devoted  to  its  uses.  Shelves  should  be 
arranged  around  the  walls,  those  upon  two  sides  at  least  per- 
mitting barrels  to  be  placed  under  them ;  hooks  should  be 
placed  upon  the  edges  of  some  of  the  upper  shelves,  within  easy 
reach,  for  the  hanging  of  bunches  of  herbs  and  small  bags  or 
nets  containing  fruit.  A  cool,  dark  section  should  be  set  apart 
for  preserves  and  jellies ;  and,  if  they  are  put  up  in  stone  jars  or 
buckets,  they  should  be  labelled,  so  that  the  contents  can  be 
known  without  opening  them.  The  arrangement  of  shelves, 
boxes,  jars  and  barrels  will  suggest  itself  to  any  tidy  person,  as 
it  affords  the  easiest  access  to  their  contents.  As  far  as  possible, 
solid  cases  should  be  used  for  stores  of  all  kinds,  because  paper 
used  for  wrapping  them  is  so  readily  torn,  and  is  no  protection 
against  mice  or  insects.  The  ordinary  contents  of  the  storeroom 
include  dry  groceries,  preserves,  pickles,  bread  and  cake;  the 
latter  should  be  kept  in  close  boxes  of  wood  or  tin,  which  should 
be  frequently  cleaned.  Hot  food  should  never  be  put  into  the 
storeroom,  because  it  gives  out  steam  and  thus  favors  dampness, 
and  also  because  it  slightly  heats  the  atmosphere. 

The  Refrigerator. 

In  most  towns,  ice-boxes  or  refrigerators  are  obtainable 
already  made,  but  there  is  some  discretion  to  be  used  in  their 
selection.  In  choosing  one,  care  should  be  taken  that  the  frame 
is  of  hard  wood,  susceptible  of  a  smooth  finish,  because  a  soft, 
rough  surface  attracts  and  retains  moisture  and  injurious  odors 
from  the  water  used  in  cleansing  it,  and  from  the  ice,  as  well  as 
from  the  food  itself.  If  possible,  the  entire  lining  and  shelves 


The  Refrigerator.  113 

should  be  metallic;  but,  if  they  are  of  wood,  they  should  be 
hard,  and  a  double  set  should  be  employed  so  that  some  can  be 
drying  while  the  others  are  in  use.  Marbleized  iron  or  zinc 
makes  the  best  metal  shelves.  No  water  or  sewer-pipes  should 
be  connected  with  the  ice-box,  because  poisonous  gases  readily 
pass  through  water.  In  so-called  model  apartment  houses,  the 
refrigerator  is  sometimes  connected  direct  with  the  drain  by  a 
small  pipe,  to  permit  the  escape  of  the  water  caused  by  the  melt- 
ing of  the  ice:  there  could  be  no  surer  way  devised  to  imperil 
the  health  of  the  inmates  of  the  apartments.  Ice-boxes  and 
refrigerators,  large  and  small,  should  be  cleaned  and  aired  often 
enough  to  keep  them  perfectly  free  from  any  odor.  Meat,  fish, 
poultry  or  game  should  never  be  laid  upon  shelves,  but  rather 
hung  by  hooks  or  laid  upon  racks ;  if  the  box  is  too  small  to 
permit  this,  they  should  be  placed  upon  earthen  dishes  large 
enough  to  prevent  contact  with  the  box  or  shelves.  Milk  should 
always  be  kept  in  closed  jars,  even  when  in  the  ice-box,  for  no 
other  substance  is  so  quickly  affected  by  air  and  surroundings ; 
it  absorbs  every  odor  and  gas  to  which  it  is  exposed,  and  takes 
on  every  taint  in  the  atmosphere :  therefore,  as  soon  as  its  first 
natural  heat  has  passed  away,  it  should  be  strained,  and  kept  in 
covered  vessels,  unless  it  is  put  into  a  perfectly  clean  milk-room 
sheltered  from  air  and  dust.  Butter,  like  milk,  readily  takes  on 
odors  and  taint :  it  should  always  be  kept  in  covered  tubs  or  jars, 
with  brine  or  a  wet  cloth  covered  with  salt  over  it.  It  should 
never  be  put  near  fish,  meat  or  vegetables  which  can  impart  any 
odor  to  it. 

The  ice-box  should  not  be  kept  in  a  damp  place,  because 
dampness  will  cause  the  ice  to  melt,  and  predispose  food  to  fer- 
ment and  mold.  No  steam  or  furnace-pipes  or  chimney-flues 
should  be  near  enough  to  vary  its  temperature  in  the  least 
degree,  for  this  in  itself  is  a  frequent  cause  of  injury  to  food. 
When  the  weather  is  variable,  it  is  necessary  to  closely  watch 


114  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

food  which  is  not  refrigerated.  In  the  winter,  there  is  less 
danger  to  food  from  decomposition  than  in  summer ;  but  some 
kinds  are  impaired  by  freezing.  And  then,  too,  there  is  always 
more  or  less  danger  of  decomposition  attending  the  thawing  of 
frozen  meats ;  they  should  be  thawed  at  a  dry  temperature,  only 
a  little  above  the  freezing-point,  in  a  well- ventilated  room,  or  in 
very  cold  water — never  near  the  fire,  or  in  a  warm  kitchen. 
When  meat  has  once  been  frozen,  it  should  be  kept  at  that 
temperature  until  it  is  thawed  for  cooking ;  for,  when  once 
thawed,  it  is  likely  to  spoil  quickly,  especially  in  close,  damp 
weather. 

A  word  in  regard  to  frozen  vegetables :  They  should  be 
placed  in  cold  water  to  thaw,  not  exposed  to  the  action  of  heat ; 
but  as  freezing  effects  a  chemical  change  in  the  substance  and 
composition  of  vegetables — as,  for  instance,  when  it  partly 
changes  the  starch  in  potatoes  into  glucose — they  should  generally 
be  protected  from  frost.  Vegetables  will  be  referred  to  again  in 
treating  of  the  cellar. 

As  dampness  favors  decomposition,  even  at  a  low  tempera- 
ture, the  ice  compartment  in  refrigerators  should  be  separated 
from  the  food  closet  by  permanent  walls,  so  that  moisture  can- 
not be  directly  communicated  from  ice  to  food.  The  only 
efficient  refrigerator  is  one  that  thus  separates  the  ice  from  the 
food,  and  has  an  outlet  for  the  water  caused  by  the  melting  of 
the  ice.  It  is  a  mistake  to  use  this  water  for  drinking  or  cooking 
purposes,  for  it  generally  contains  impurities  from  the  ice.  A 
glass  or  porcelain-lined  receptacle  placed  next  to  the  ice-com- 
partment, and  filled  with  water,  will  cool  pleasantly.  The  vessel 
should  be  washed  out  and  filled  with  fresh  water  every  day,  and 
should  be  entirely  closed  from  the  air  ;  for  water  impregnated 
with  odors  or  vapors  from  food,  or  with  those  which  pervade 
living-rooms,  is  unfit  to  drink.  As  water  standing  in  open 
pitchers  for  any  length  of  time  loses  all  its  natural  gases,  and 


The  Cellar.  115 

absorbs  the  deleterious  properties  in  the  atmosphere,  so,  equally, 
that  which  is  exposed  to  the  odors  of  food  in  the  refrigerator  be- 
comes injurious. 

In  cool  weather,  meat,  fish,  game  and  poultry  may  be  kept 
in  a  wire  safe  for  a  reasonable  length  of  time.  The  same  general 
care  should  be  given  to  the  safe  which  the  refrigerator  requires. 
Its  frame  should  be  of  hard  wood  ;  the  racks  or  shelves  of  metal, 
marbleized  or  galvanized  iron ;  and  the  wire-cloth  painted  as 
often  as  it  shows  any  trace  of  rust,  because  a  rough,  rusted 
metallic  surface  will  attract  and  retain  deleterious  odors,  and 
particles  of  decomposed  food. 

The  Cellar. 

In  cities,  cellars  are  generally  underground,  and  too  often 
contaminated  by  sewer  and  drain-pipes.  It  is  impossible  to  take 
too  much  care  to  guard  against  this  danger.  To  a  great  extent, 
dampness  can  be  obviated  in  cellars,  by  flooring  them  with  con- 
crete, and  ventilating  them  thoroughly ;  for  this  purpose  there 
should  be  movable  windows,  in  good  working  order,  with  direct 
communication  with  the  outer  air. 

Cellars  cannot  always  be  lighted  without  artificial  means,  but 
they  can  be  kept  clean  and  dry.  A  little  copperas  dissolved  in 
the  water  used  for  making  lime  wash,  or  some  good  disinfectant, 
can  always  be  used  to  purify  the  air  ;  and  care  can  be  taken  that 
no  dirt  of  any  kino  accumulates.  If  fruit  or  vegetables  are  kept 
in  cellars,  they  should  be  examined  frequently,  and  all  spoiled 
portions  removed.  The  darkness  necessary  to  the  preservation 
of  some  vegetables  can  be  secured  by  covering  them  with  old 
clean  blankets  or  carpet,  or,  better  still,  with  several  thicknesses 
of  newspaper,  which  can  be  thrown  away  when  they  bear  any 
trace  of  mildew  ;  the  blanket  or  carpet  should  be  dried  frequently, 
and  washed  when  it  becomes  at  all  mildewed.  The  temperature 


n6  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

of  cellars  where  vegetables  are  kept  should  be  regulated  so  that 
they  can  neither  freeze,  nor  spoil  from  excessive  heat ;  a  safe 
temperature  is  about  50°  Fahr. 

When  vegetables  are  kept  in  bins,  they  should  be  made  of 
hard,  smooth  wood  with  covers;  otherwise,  barrels  and  boxes 
with  covers  should  be  used.  If  those  roots  and  tubers  which  are 
to  be  kept  until  late  in  the  winter  are  packed  in  layers,  in  sand  or 
clean  moss  or  excelsior- shavings,  they  will  keep  fresh  and  good 
in  a  dry,  cool  cellar.  Apples  may  be  packed  in  this  way,  or  in 
dry  sawdust,  or  wrapped  in  soft  paper,  and  stored  in  barrels  or 
boxes.  Winter  pears  may  be  laid  between  the  folds  of  an  old 
clean  blanket,  on  a  shelf  in  a  dry  cellar.  Cranberries  are  best 
preserved  by  keeping  them  covered  with  water,  and  lemons  do 
well  in  the  same  way ;  care  should  be  taken  that  the  water  does 
not  freeze,  and  it  should  be  changed  often  enough  to  maintain 
its  freshness.  Parsnips  are  generally  left  in  the  ground  during 
the  winter,  but  they  may  be  kept  in  sand  in  the  cellar.  If  turnips 
are  kept  in  sand,  they  are  less  apt  to  become  corky  than  when 
exposed  to  the  air.  Celery  keeps  well  quite  buried  in  the  sand. 
Squashes  and  pumpkins  require  a  cool,  dry  place.  Cabbages 
may  be  laid  in  heaps,  or  packed  in  barrels,  with  the  root  up, 
and  a  thick  covering  of  their  own  outer  leaves  upon  the  top, 
under  the  cover  of  the  barrel  or  bin.  Onions  should  be  spread 
upon  shelves,  or  kept  in  well-aired  baskets.  Beets  should  be 
buried  in  sand,  as  also  carrots.  Potatoes  keep  well  in  barrels 
in  a  cool,  dark  part  of  the  cellar.  As  the  spring  approaches,  or 
if  they  begin  to  show  signs  of  germination  at  any  season,  they 
may  be  put  into  baskets  with  handles,  and  placed  in  boiling  water 
for  three  minutes ;  after  that  they  are  to  be  thoroughly  drained, 
and  then  returned  to  the  cellar :  the  heat  of  the  water  destroys 
the  young  sprouts,  without  injuring  the  rest  of  the  potato  for 
subsequent  cooking.  Sweet  potatoes  require  a  very  dry  place, 
but  do  not  keep  any  length  of  time  ;  so  that  unless  the  family  is 


The  Cellar.  1 1 7 

large,  they  should  be  bought  only  in  small  quantities.  All  the 
vegetables  which  are  used  green  or  in  an  immature  condition 
should  be  dried,  canned  or  preserved  in  their  season.  Radishes 
and  mushrooms  may  be  raised  during  the  winter,  in  warm  cellars  ; 
and  parsley  and  lettuce,  in  window  boxes,  at  any  temperature 
suitable  for  house  plants;  mustard  and  cress  will  grow  from  seed 
within  a  few  days  in  window  boxes. 


MARKETING. 

As  the  excellence  of  a  dinner  depends  as  much  upon  the 
quality  of  its  materials  as  upon  the  skill  of  the  cook,  it  is  incum- 
bent on  the  good  housekeeper  to  have  some  knowledge  of 
marketing.  If  a  good  cook  can  do  better  with  poor  materials 
than  a  poor  cook  with  the  best  supplies,  how  great  will  be  the 
satisfaction  in  a  repast  which  supplements  judicious  selection 
with  perfect  cookery  !  The  skilled  marketer  must  have  experi- 
ence, but  even  the  youngest  beginner  can  gain  some  advantage 
from  such  clear  and  explicit  description  as  is  presented  in  this 
chapter. 

Before  entering  upon  the  detail  of  meat  marketing,  a  few 
words  may  be  well  said  upon  the  importance  of  freshness  in  food 
of  all  kinds,  and  especially  when  several  kinds  are  used  for 
making  one  dish,  such  as  a  soup  or  a  stew.  The  least  taint  in 
any  ingredient  will  impair  the  flavor  of  the  dish,  and  often 
produce  temporary  discomfort  or  positive  illness ;  therefore  the 
marketer  should  not  be  tempted  to  purchase  wilted  vegetables, 
or  meat  upon  the  verge  of  spoiling,  because  the  price  may  be 
low.  In  fact,  the  rule  may  be  accepted,  that  fair  goods  command 
a  fair  price;  the  only  notable  exception  being  when  marketing 
days  occur  only  two  or  three  times  a  week,  or  at  the  end  of  the 
week,  when  the  food  is  sold  at  a  reduction  toward  the  close  of 
the  day,  by  dealers  who  do  not  wish  to  take  the  risk  of 
keeping  it. 

Good  Points  in  Meats. 

A  few  clearly  defined  points  will  enable  any  ordinarily  careful 
and  intelligent  person  to  select  a  good  quality  of  flesh  from  what 


Marketing.  119 

is  offered.  The  best  meats  are  from  well-fed,  mature  animals, 
which  have  not  been  overworked,  and  the  meat  of  which  has 
been  carefully  transported  from  the  slaughter-house  to  the 
market.  A  loose  texture  of  flesh  in  full-grown  meats  indicates 
an  excess  of  water,  which  will  cause  the  meat  to  skrink  in 
cooking  or  preserving  it  in  any  way.  The  flesh  of  grass-fed 
meat  is  of  this  character;  while  that  of  "stall-fed"  or  "corn-fed" 
animals  has  a  firm,  dense  fiber,  admirably  calculated  to  retain 
its  substance,  either  under  the  action  of  heat  in  cooking  or  of 
salt  in  curing  it.  Of  the  three  best-known  mature  meats,  beef 
has  the  largest  and  firmest  fibers,  and  pork  has  the  densest, 
closest  texture ;  and  therefore  both  are  well  suited  for  curing. 
About  one-fifth  of  the  weight  of  flesh  is  composed  of  the  solid 
substances  of  fibrine,  albumen,  and  gelatine ;  the  residue  being 
the  juice  of  the  flesh,  which  consists  of  water  and  some  soluble 
salts  that  are  essential  to  the  preservation  of  health.  It  is  this 
juice,  of  which  salted  meats  are  largely  deprived,  which  is  too 
often  lost  by  improper  methods  of  cooking ;  as  in  the  pounding 
of  beefsteaks,  under  the  erroneous  impression  that  they  are  thus 
made  tender,  when  really  the  labor  of  mastication  saved  by  the 
breaking  of  the  fibers  is  more  than  handicapped  by  the  loss  of 
the  juice  entailed  by  the  pounding  operation.  When  the  fiber 
of  meat  is  over-tough,  it  can  be  softened  by  using  vinegar 
during  cooking,  according  to  the  directions  given  elsewhere. 

The  fact  is  not  always  known  to  city  marketers,  although  it 
is  generally  well  understood  by  people  in  the  country  who  kill 
their  own  meat,  that  the  flesh  of  animals  and  birds  is  always 
most  tender  if  kept  in  a  cool  place  some  time  before  cooking. 

A  glance  will  show  an  experienced  marketer  the  difference 
between  good  and  poor  meat.  The  first  has  a  fresh,  bright 
color,  with  plenty  of  back  and  kidney  fat,  and  fine  thread-like 
particles  of  fat  running  through  the  flesh ;  the  odor  is  sweet  and 
the  general  appearance  clean.  On  the  other  hand,  meat  in  bad 


i2o  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplifies 

condition  is  dark  and  dull  in  color,  without  the  tracery  of  white 
fat  throughout  the  flesh,  and  its  abundance  on  the  back  and 
about  the  kidneys ;  even  if  the  fat  is  abundant,  its  color  will  be 
yellowish  and  its  consistency  soft ;  the  odor  will  be  more  or  less 
unpleasant.  No  amount  of  washing  will  restore  the  excellence 
of  stale  or  tainted  meat,  or  counteract  its  poisonous  effect  upon 
the  system.  The  fact  should  be  remembered  in  this  connection, 
that  meats  which  have  been  kept  on  the  ice,-  and  are  then 
exposed  to  the  action  of  a  warm  atmosphere,  taint  much  more 
quickly  than  those  that  have  never  been  iced. 

Beef. 

Good  beef  is  of  a  clear,  bright-red  color,  veined  or  marbled 
with  whitish  fat,  with  abundant  kidney  fat  or  suet,  and  thick 
back  fat ;  the  fat  of  a  prime  creature  is  of  a  clear,  whitish  yellow 
color,  rather  hard  and  brittle,  as  contrasted  with  the  dull  yellow 
fat  of  inferior  beef,  which  is  also  soft  and  greasy.  The  second 
grade  of  beef  is  of  a  dusky  red  color,  with  scant  fat  interspersed 
among  the  muscular  fiber  and  very  little  upon  the  back  and 
kidneys;  the  odor  of  the  meat  is  good;  and,  if  it  is  hung  long 
enough,  the  flesh  will  be  comparatively  tender.  Poor  beef  has 
little  or  no  back  fat,  very  scant  yellowish  kidney  fat,  and  dark 
red,  hard  flesh ;  in  cooking  it,  the  aid  of  vinegar  will  soften  the 
fibers  to  some  extent,  but  it  can  never  be  made  entirely  good ; 
if  the  odor  is  rank  and  strong,  it  will  always  be  noticeable. 

The  carcass  of  beef  as  marketed  is  cut  into  sides,  and  these 
again  into  fore  and  hind-quarters.  The  choicest  parts  of  the 
carcass  are  along  the  line  of  the  backbone. 

The  following  indicates  the  best  use  for  each  part : 

1.  Shin,  or  leg;  used  for  soups  and  plain  stews. 

2.  Round  ;  used  for  steaks,  pot-roasts,  and  beef  a  la  mode. 

3.  Rump ;  used  for  steaks,  stews,  and  corned  beef. 


Marketing.  121 

4.  Butt  or   flank   steak  ;    used   for  steak,  pressed  beef,  and 
corned  beef. 

5.  Large  sirloin  steaks;  large,  juicy  steaks,  used  for  broiling 
and  frying. 

6.  Sirloin  roast  or  porterhouse  steaks ;    used  for  the  choice 
roast  or  beefsteaks. 

7.  Flank ;  used  for  corned  beef  or  stews. 

8.  Navel ;  used  for  corned  beef. 

9.  Plate ;  used  for  corned  beef. 
10.     Ribs;  used  for  roasting. 

n.     Chuck  ribs;  used  for  roasting  and  steaks. 

12.  Shoulder-piece;  for  soups,  stews,  mince,  and  pot-roasts. 

13.  Shank,  or  shin  ;  used  chiefly  for  soups. 

14.  Neck;  used  for  soups,  stews,  and  hash  or  mince. 

15.  Brisket;  used  for  corned  beef,  spiced  beef,  and  stews. 
There   is    choice   to   be   exercised    in   regard  to  steaks  and 

roasts.  The  hip  or  thick  end  of  the  sirloin  or  porterhouse  cut 
makes  the  finest  beeksteaks,  the  two  hip-bone  or  tenderloin 
steaks  being  the  best  large  beefsteaks  in  the  entire  carcass.  The 
middle  porterhouse  steaks  are  smaller,  and  have  a  good  propor- 
tion of  tenderloin  or  filet;  the  thin  end  of  the  sirloin  gives  small 
porterhouse  steaks  of  excellent  flavor.  Beyond  the  hip-bone 
sirloin  steak,  comes  the  flat  and  round  bone  sirloin  steaks, 
which  are  large,  juicy  and  well  flavored ;  then  the  ordinary  large 
sirloin  steaks  reach  to  the  rump-piece.  The  tenderloin  or  filet 
of  beef  runs  under  the  sirloin,  beginning  at  the  round-bone 
sirloin  steak,  and  running  up  to  about  the  third  small  porter- 
house— from  fifteen  to  twenty  inches — and  weighing  five  pounds 
or  more.  Rump  and  round  steaks  cut  from  fine  beef  are  com- 
posed of  firm,  juicy,  well-flavored  flesh,  and  in  point  of  nutriment 
compare  favorably  with  any  portion.  The  roasting-ribs  are  cut 
from  the  fore-quarter;  they  number  in  all  thirteen,  and  are 
usually  cut  in  twos  or  threes,  according  to  the  size  or  weight 


122  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

required.  The  first  two  or  three  are  called  the  first-cut  ribs; 
then  come  the  second  or  middle  cut,  reaching  as  far  as  the  fifth 
or  sixth  rib ;  the  third-cut  ribs  reach  up  to  the  chuck  or 
shoulder-ribs,  which  begin  at  the  ninth  rib:  all  these  cuts  are 
juicy,  tender  and  highly  flavored.  The  four  chuck-ribs  proper 
run  up  to  the  neck.  The  piece  of  shoulder-blade  running 
through  the  chuck-ribs  can  be  cut  out  by  the  butcher,  and 
replaced  by  a  piece  of  fat.  The  chuck-ribs  are  divided  according 
to  the  requirements  of  the  purchaser ;  their  flavor  is  sweet;  and, 
as  they  are  marbled  with  fat  in  good  beef,  they  rank  next  the 
sirloin,  either  as  roasts  or  steaks.  The  chuck  nearest  the  neck 
is  inferior  in  quality  to  the  other  end  near  the  ribs  proper. 

Veal. 

The  best  veal  is  from  a  milk-fed  calf  about  six  weeks  old. 
Veal  less  than  a  month  old  is  watery,  soft  and  insipid.  Good 
veal  shows  a  fine-grained,  juicy  flesh,  of  a  delicate  pinkish  color, 
with  firm  white  fat.  When  the  food  of  calves  is  changed  to 
grass,  hay  or  meal,  the  character  of  the  flesh  changes ;  it  is 
harder,  less  juicy,  and  darker  in  color,  and  the  fat  grows  yellow- 
ish. When  the  flesh  of  veal  is  very  white,  it  may  have  been 
blanched  for  the  purpose  of  changing  the  appearance  of  poor 
veal  to  that  of  good  quality.  The  flesh  of  the  second  quality  of 
veal  is  red,  contrasted  with  the  pinkish  white  prime  flesh,  and 
the  fat  is  coarser  grained  and  less  abundant  The  poorest  kind 
of  veal  has  decidedly  red  flesh,  and  very  little  kidney  fat  When 
the  kidney  fat  of  any  quality  of  veal  begins  to  grow  soft  and 
clammy,  the  meat  is  on  the  verge  of  spoiling.  Bob-veal  is  the 
flesh  of  calves  killed  when  they  are  less  than  three  weeks  old ; 
the  flesh  is  soft,  semi-gelatinous  and  sticky,  and  the  fat  is  scant 
and  flabby.  It  is  utterly  unfit  for  food  ;  being  the  first  flesh  of 
the  young  creature,  unchanged  by  the  healthful  action  of  sun 


Marketing.  1 23 

and  air,  it  is  devoid  of  those  elements  which  make  good  flesh 
a  wholesome  food.  The  influence  of  sun  and  air  upon  the  blood 
of  animals  is  well  understood  by  stock  raisers,  who  have  demon- 
strated that  far  better  meat  is  produced  by  animals  fattened  in 
the  open  air  than  by  those  that  are  housed  for  any  considerable 
length  of  time. 

1.  Leg,  including   part   of  the  flank;    used  for  cutlets  and 
roasts. 

2.  Loin  ;     used  for  roasts  and  chops. 

3.  Flank  ;  this  part  is  often  nearly  all  cut  with  the  leg,  but 
if  separated  it  makes  a  good  roll  for  baking  or  stewing. 

4.  The  ribs  lying  under  the  shoulder ;  used  for  roasts,  chops 
and  stews. 

5.  Breast;   used  for  stews,  pot-pie  and  baking. 

6.  Shoulder  ;  used  for  roasts  and  baked  dishes. 

7.  Neck ;  used  for  broth  and  stews. 

8.  Feet ;  used  for  jelly. 

The  hind- quarter  of  veal  is  generally  considered  the  finest, 
but  the  rib  chops  are  exceedingly  good.  In  a  small  carcass  of 
veal,  the  hind-quarter  would  be  divided  simply  into  loin  and  leg, 
and  the  fore-quarter  into  shoulder,  breast  and  neck. 

Lamb. 

Spring  lamb  is  divided  simply  into  fore  and  hind-quarters  by 
a  middle  cut,  which  leaves  several  of  the  ribs  attached  to  the 
hind-quarter.  The  latter  commands  the  highest  price,  because  it 
presents  the  greatest  available  quantity  of  meat ;  but  its  flavor  is 
not  superior  to  that  of  the  shoulder.  If  a  lamb  is  very  large, 
the  neck  may  be  separated  from  the  fore-quarter  to  use  for  stews. 
Very  delicate  dishes  are  made  from  lambs'  feet. 

Spring  lamb  proper  is  from  six  weeks  to  three  months  old. 


124  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

House  lamb  is  lamb  fed  under  cover  during  the  winter  months. 
Lamb  is  sold  from  spring  until  late  winter,  not  being  called 
mutton  until  after  it  is  a  year  old.  The  weight  of  small  spring 
lamb  is  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  pounds ;  and  as  the  season 
progresses,  the  size  increases  to  about  a  hundred  pounds. 
As  the  lamb  grows  larger,  chops  are  cut  from  both  fore  and 
hind-quarters;  the  former  being  called  rib  chops,  and  the  latter 
loin  chops  or  cutlets,  as  they  are  taken  from  the  loin  or  leg. 
Sometimes  small  sheep  are  dressed  like  lamb ;  but  the  difference 
is  shown  by  the  darker  red  of  the  flesh,  the  comparative  scanti- 
ness of  the  fat,  and  the  white  color  of  the  bones  as  opposed  to 
the  reddish  bones  of  lamb.  The  back  and  kidney  fat  of  lamb  is 
hard,  white  and  abundant ;  and  the  flesh  has  a  delicate  rosy  tint 
The  flesh  of  the  second  quality  is  darker  and  less  firm  than  that 
of  prime  lamb ;  the  grain  is  coarser,  and  the  fat  less  white  and 
abundant.  Poor  lamb  has  scant,  yellowish  fat,  and  lean,  flabby 
meat  without  any  interspersed  lines  of  fat,  and  the  flesh  is  soft 
and  watery.  When  the  kidney  fat  of  lamb  begins  to  grow  soft 
and  sticky,  the  meat  is  on  the  point  of  spoiling ;  a  bad  odor 
indicates  that  it  is  already  tainted,  and  is  unfit  for  use.  It  is  not 
ever  a  safe  experiment  to  roast  or  bake  meat  upon  the  verge  of 
spoiling,  because  the  gradual  heating  of  the  interior  will  generally 
complete  its  decomposition. 

Mutton. 

Mutton  is  prime  from  creatures  about  three  years  old,  fed 
out-of-doors,  and  especially  upon  hillsides.  The  fat  of  prime 
mutton  is  abundant,  white,  and  hard  ;  the  flesh  is  firm  and  juicy, 
and  of  a  clear  red  color;  and  the  bones  are  white.  The  flesh  of 
second  quality  is  darker  and  closer  grained,  the  fat  is  scanty  and 
yellowish,  and  the  flavor  is  rank.  Poor  mutton  has  pale,  flabby 
flesh,  scant  thin  fat  laid  close  against  the  flesh  but  not  interlined 


Marketing.  125 

with  it,  and  the  flesh  parts  easily  from  the  bones.     Diseased  mut- 
ton has  decidedly  yellowish  fat,  and  soft,  flabby  flesh. 

1.  Leg;  used  for  roasts;  in  large  mutton  part  of  the  leg  is 
cut  with  the  saddle. 

2.  Loin  ;  used  for  roasts  and  chops. 

3.  Flank;  cut  separate  in  very  large  mutton,  but  in  medium 
sized  carcasses  included  in  the  loin  cut  or  chops. 

4.  Back  or  rib  chops  ;  used  for  rib  or  French  chops. 

5.  Breast;  used  for  roasts,  stews,  and  baked  dishes. 

6.  Shoulder  ;  used  for  roasts  and  baked  dishes. 

7.  Neck  ;  used  for  cutlets  and  stews. 

The  saddle  of  mutton  is  the  double  loin,  cut  without  splitting 
it  down  the  back.  French  chops  are  rib  chops  with  the  end  of 
the  bone  trimmed  off,  and  the  flesh  and  fat  cut  away  from  the 
bone  at  the  thin  or  flank  end,  leaving  the  round  piece  of  flesh  near 
the  backbone  attached  to  the  rib. 

Pork. 

The  best  pork  for  general  table  use  is  from  carcasses  weigh- 
ing from  fifty  to  about  a  hundred  and  twenty-five  pounds.  The 
color  of  the  flesh  is  a  fresh  pink ;  and  the  fat  is  hard  and  white, 
not  less  than  an  inch  thick  upon  the  back,  and  very  abundant 
about  the  intestines.  The  skin  of  young  pork  is  whitish  and 
semi-transparent.  The  second  quality  of  pork  has  rather  hard 
red  flesh  and  yellowish  fat;  the  poor  sort  has  dark,  coarse- 
grained flesh,  soft  fat,  and  a  generally  inferior  appearance. 
Measly  pork,  which  is  unfit  for  use,  has  little  kernels  in  the  fat ; 
the  kernels  or  yellowish  lumps  sometimes  show  in  the  lean,  and 
the  entire  flesh  has  a  dull  look.  The  tenderloins  of  pork  cor- 
respond with  those  of  beef  in  place ;  they  are  of  sweet  and  tender 
flesh,  and  during  the  winter  season  can  generally  be  bought. 


Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

When  the  back  fat  of  pork  is  very  thick,  some  of  it  is  removed 
from  the  parts  which  are  to  be  used  for  roasts  and  chops  ;  when 
the  skin  is  dressed  on  roasts,  it  is  scored  in  lines  about  half  an 
inch  apart. 

1.  Leg;  used  for  roasts,  ham  and  corned  pork. 

2.  Flank  ;  used  for  pickling  or  salting. 

3.  Loin;  used  for  roasts,  chops,  and  baked  dishes. 

4.  Brisket ;   used  for  pickling  and  salting,  and  bacon. 

5.  Ribs;   used  for  roasts,  chops,  and  baked  dishes. 

6.  Shoulder  ;  used  for  roasts,  ham  and  corned  pork. 

7.  Neck  ;  used  for  roasts  and  neck  cutlets. 

8.  Top  of  head ;  used  for  pickling  and  salting. 

9.  Cheek  ;  used  for  pickling  and  salting. 

10.  Hock  ,  used  for  pickling  and  salting. 

1 1.  Feet ;  used  for  souse  and  jelly. 

12.  Tail  piece;  used  fresh  as  a  choice  roast. 

That  part  of  a  carcass  of  pork  used  for  bacon  is  the  flank  and 
brisket,  including  the  belly  and  the  thin  part  of  the  ribs  ;  it  is 
first  thoroughly  salted,  and  then  dried  or  smoked.  The  flitch  of 
bacon  is  the  entire  side  between  the  shoulder  and  the  leg.  Brawn 
is  the  entire  length  of  a  side,  pickled,  after  it  has  been  boned  and 
rolled,  and  then  boiled. 

Poultry. 

There  is  no  season  when  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  good 
poultry  of  some  kind  ;  but  in  warm,  damp  weather  it  is  advisable 
to  select  that  which  has  not  been  long  killed,  or  preserved  on  ice, 
as  both  are  likely  to  spoil  quickly.  In  selecting  fowls,  see  that 
the  skin  is  clean,  soft  and  not  badly  torn,  that  the  flesh  looks 
plump  and  light  colored  or  whitish  under  the  skin,  and  that  some 
fat  is  apparent.  Young  fowls  or  chickens  have  large  feet  and 
long  necks  in  proportion  to  their  size,  and  the  lower  end  of  the 


Marketing.  127 

breast  bone  is  so  soft  as  to  bend  easily  in  response  to  slight  side 
pressure :  the  cartilage  does  not  harden  into  bone  while  the 
chicken  is  young  enough  to  be  absolutely  tender.  Of  course 
there  are  tender  large  fowls  and  capons,  bred  especially  for  the 
table,  which  are  well  grown  and  abound  in  delicious  flesh.  If  the 
head  and  feet  are  upon  dressed  poultry,  they  will  generally 
indicate  its  condition.  The  eyes  will  be  full  and  bright,  and  the 
feet  soft  and  pliable,  when  the  poultry  is  in  good  condition;  if  it 
is  poor  and  stale,  the  feet  will  be  dry  and  stiff,  the  eyes  sunken 
and  dull,  and  the  flesh  dark  colored,  and  changing  to  a  greenish 
hue  about  the  back  and  vent  as  the  poultry  nears  the  point  of 
spoiling.  There  are  so  many  devices  for  restoring  stale  poultry 
which  has  not  actually  reached  the  stage  of  putrefaction,  that  the 
only  absolute  safety  lies  in  buying  from  honest  dealers.  The 
head  of  a  capon,  which  is  always  left  on  the  bird,  is  smaller  in 
proportion  to  the  body  than  that  of  ordinary 'poultry  ;  the  comb 
is  more  withered  and  pale ;  the  neck  feathers  are  longer ;  and 
the  body  is  shorter,  fatter,  and  more  plump.  The  flesh  of  capons 
is  very  tender  and  juicy ;  the  weight  is  usually  from  eight  to 
twelve  pounds.  Capon  turkeys  are  unusual  but  delicious.  The 
best  spring  chickens  are  those  which  have  a  full  breast  and  are 
plump  and  short ;  those  which  have  long  legs  and  large  bones  are 
less  satisfactory.  Bantam  fowls,  which  are  sometimes  marketed, 
are  short  and  plump,  about  the  size  of  a  partridge,  and  their 
flesh  is  excellent  when  they  are  young  and  fat 

Turkeys  are  in  fine  condition  when  the  flesh  looks  white  and 
plump,  and  they  have  full  breasts  and  smooth  legs  :  old  turkeys 
have  rather  thick  skins  covered  with  long  hairs,  and  the  flesh  is 
purplish  under  the  skin.  Hen  turkeys  are  smaller  and  plumper 
than  male  birds,  and  of  less  intense  flavor :  turkey  poults,  or  young 
turkeys,  are  very  tender  and  delicate,  but  not  full  flavored.  The 
finest  turkeys  that  are  marketed  are  the  mutton-fed  birds ;  they 
are  fat,  juicy,  and  well  flavored. 


128  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Young  ducks,  or  ducklings,  and  goslings  are  among  the  most 
delicious  poultry ;  they  are  very  fat,  and  the  flesh  is  highly 
flavored.  Good  ducks  and  geese  are  plump,  with  abundance  of 
semi-transparent,  soft  fat ;  they  have  a  pliable  breast  bone,  flesh 
colored  and  brittle  beaks,  and  windpipes  that  break  when  pressed 
between  the  thumb  and  finger.  As  the  birds  grow  old,  the  color 
of  the  feet  and  beaks  changes  from  yellow  to  red.  Goslings  are 
sometimes  called  green  geese. 

Pigeons  and  squabs,  either  domestic  or  wild,  are  generally  in 
market.  Pigeons  are  good  when  the  breasts  are  large  and  plump 
in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  bird.  The  flesh  of  old  birds  is 
very  dark  colored,  that  of  good  ones  is  dark  red,  and  of  squabs  so 
light  as  to  be  almost  pink. 

With  all  game,  the  judgment  of  a  reliable  dealer  is  the  best 
guide  for  the  buyer ;  but  a  few  hints  may  be  given  as  to  the 
possibility  of  keeping  game  in  order  to  make  the  flesh  tender. 
All  wild  meat  will  keep  good  longer  than  domestic  meat,  because 
of  its  firm  texture.  In  average  temperate  weather,  clear  and  dry, 
meat  which  has  not  been  frozen  will  keep  the  following  length  of 
time:  Veal  and  pork,  one  day;  lamb,  two  days;  beef  and  mut- 
ton, from  three  to  ten  days ;  large  poultry  and  game  birds,  from 
three  to  six  days ;  small  game  from  two  to  five  days,  and  large 
game  about  a  week.  In  clear  winter  weather,  meat  and  game 
frozen  in  the  air  will  keep  until  there  are  signs  of  a  thaw  ;  they 
should  then  be  put  into  an  ice-house,  where  they  will  remain 
frozen,  or  thawed  out  in  cold  water  and  speedily  used.  In  warm, 
muggy  weather,  and  during  summer  rains,  meat  exposed  to  the 
air  spoils  quickly  ;  and  the  conditions  of  warmth  and  moisture  to 
which  it  is  exposed  are  not  unlike  those  which  prevail  when 
frozen  meat  is  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  fire  in  roasting  and 
baking.  Meats  should  be  hung  up,  and  entirely  covered  with 
thin  cloth  or  fly-screens,  in  a  cool,  dark  place,  free  from  damp- 
ness ;  they  should  not  be  laid  upon  dishes  or  boards,  because  the 


Marketing.  1 29 

blood  which  flows  from  them  taints  more  quickly  lhan  the  flesh 
itself.  It  is  for  the  purpose  of  entirely  removing  this  blood  that 
butchers  scrape  their  meat-blocks  instead  of  washing  them. 
Meats  designed  for  broiling,  roasting  and  baking  can  be  hung 
longer  than  those  which  are  to  be  boiled. 

Fish. 

In  selecting  fish,  have  it  as  fresh  as  possible.  This  condition 
is  indicated  by  the  fullness  and  brightness  of  the  eyes,  and  the 
clean  skin  and  firm  flesh :  above  all,  the  odor  should  be  sweet 
and  fresh.  Fish  which  is  marketed  in  a  frozen  state  should  be 
thawed  in  cold  water,  and  cooked  at  once.  Sea  fish,  and  those 
which  run  from  the  sea  into  bays  and  rivers,  have  the  finest  flavor ; 
fresh-water  fish  sometimes  have  a  muddy  taste,  which  can  be  re- 
moved to  some  extent  by  soaking  them  in  salted  cold  water  for  a 
couple  of  hours  before  they  are  cooked.  All  fish  are  best  before 
spawning ;  after  that  period  the  flesh  becomes  soft  and  watery. 
Good  crabs  and  lobsters  are  heavy  in  proportion  to  their  size,  and 
while  uncooked  their  movements  are  rapid  if  they  are  in  good 
condition  ;  if  cooked,  their  odor  is  sweet  as  long  as  they  are  good. 
Oysters,  clams,  scallops,  and  mussels  should  be  eaten  as  fresh 
as  possible  always.  Salted  and  smoked  fish  should  always  have 
a  good  odor  and  clean  appearance. 

Vegetables  and  Fruit. 

All  juicy  and  green  vegetables  should  be  very  fresh  and  suc- 
culent, and  are  best  just  before  flowering,  as  also  are  the  sweet 
herbs  called  pot-herbs.  Roots  and  tubers  should  be  full  and 
fresh  colored ;  if  withered  or  sprouted,  they  are  inferior.  The 
green  vegetables  should  not  be  bought  in  larger  quantity  than 
can  be  used  while  they  are  still  fresh  ;  they  will  keep  best  if 


130  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

sprinkled  with  water,  and  laid  in  a  cool,  dark  place.  All  the  roots 
and  tubers  are  improved  by  laying  them  in  cold  water  for  an  hour 
before  using  them.  Details  as  to  the  keeping  of  vegetables  arc 
given  elsewhere. 

Fruit  when  fresh  should  be  ripe  and  sound,  as  perfect  as  pos- 
sible (because  this  will  make  less  waste),  and  bought  only  in 
quantities  which  admit  of  speedy  use,  unless  it  is  winter  fruit 
which  can  be  kept  without  any  danger  of  spoiling.  Preserved 
and  dried  fruits  keep  well  in  cool,  dark  places,  and  so  may  be 
bought  safely  in  quantities. 


THE  ETIQUETTE  OF  DINNERS. 

The  selection  of  guests  for  a  dinner  should  be  thoughtfully 
made.  Not  only  should  social  obligations  and  personal  prefer- 
ences be  consulted,  but  also  the  individual  characteristics  of  the 
guests ;  for  a  disagreeable  neighbor  can  destroy  the  entire  en- 
joyment of  the  repast.  A  dinner  is  not  the  affair  of  a  moment ; 
it  implies  prolonged  association.  At  a  luncheon,  where  the 
time  spent  at  table  is  short,  at  a  garden-party,  where  change  of 
companionship  is  possible,  at  a  dance,  where  the  favorite  partner 
can  be  secured  at  least  once,  no  such  nice  discrimination  is  de- 
manded, upon  the  part  of  the  host,  as  at  the  dinner  table,  where 
guests  are  placed  in  close  proximity  for  hours.  It  is  true  that  no 
introductions  need  take  place,  except  between  guests  who  are  to 
go  down  together  when  they  are  not  already  acquaintances,  or 
where  there  is  on  the  part  of  the  guests  a  natural  desire  for 
introduction  to  some  distinguished  person  present;  but  one  takes 
the  fact  for  granted  that  every  guest  at  a  friend's  table  is  a  desir- 
able companion,  and  every  one  is  at  liberty  to  enter  into  conver- 
sation without  a  formal  introduction.  Although  such  desultory 
intercourse  does  not  entail  subsequent  recognition,  it  is  the  duty 
of  the  host  to  make  sure  that  the  passing  intercourse  leaves  no 
unwelcome  claims  upon  his  guests.  Then,  too,  those  persons 
should  be  placed  together  whose  conversation  is  likely  to  strike 
upon  congenial  topics  in  the  intervals  of  well  served  courses. 
The  guests  see  so  little  of  the  hosts,  after  the  first  salutation,  that 
they  are  in  a  measure  bound  to  replace  themselves  in  the 
arrangement  of  their  guests.  While  one  would  not  place  a 
chatterbox  without  taste  beside  a  man  inclined  to  pay  the  choice 


132  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

dish  of  the  dinner  the  tribute  of  silent  appreciation,  nothing  can 
be  more  wearisome  than  a  long,  elaborate  dinner  beside  a  person 
without  smile  or  voice.  It  is  true  that  a  gourmand  m£y  find  con- 
solation in  well-cooked  dishes,  but  it  is  not  in  every  house  that 
these  are  served.  To  place  a  flippant  guest  beside  an  earnest  one, 
a  commonplace  one  next  a  poet,  is  to  intensify  the  misery  of 
ennui.  The  dinner  giver  does  not  always  invite  "  minds  "  to  the 
feast,  but  the  fact  that  guests  have  minds  should  not  be  forgotten. 
On  the  part  of  the  host  a  dinner  invitation  implies  a  desire 
for  a  certain  social  intimacy  which  is  not  involved  in  any  other 
form  of  entertainment.  One  may  give  pleasant  assurances  of 
social  happiness  in  the  formal  interchange  of  calls,  or  the  slightly 
more  personal  intercourse  of  prolonged  receptions  or  of  evening 
affairs;  these  are  agreeable  ways  of  paying  one's  social  debts. 
But  to  ask  a  friend  to  dinner  means  friendliness  indeed ;  for  this  rea- 
son, a  dinner  invitation  should  be  accepted  only  from  those  whose 
friendship  is  welcomed.  It  should  always  be  returned  during  the 
social  season — that  is,  before  people  separate  for  the  summer;  if 
the  recipient  has  not  an  establishment  which  admits  of  giving  a 
dinner  in  return,  a  ride  or  drive  in  the  country,  or  a  good 
restaurant  dinner  or  a  theater  party  in  the  city,  is  considered  a 
social  equivalent.  There  should  be  no  delay  in  answering  a 
dinner  invitation  definitely ;  this  gives  the  hostess  an  opportunity 
to  fill  the  guest's  place  if  the  hospitality  is  declined.  If  the 
invitation  is  accepted,  punctuality  to  the  hour  fixed  for  the  din- 
ner is  imperative  on  the  part  of  the  guest.  The  tact  of  a  lady  is 
to  be  appreciated,  who,  after  an  unforeseen  hindrance,  reached  the 
house  of  her  entertainers  just  as  the  last  of  the  guests  were  enter- 
ing the  dining-room;  she  dropped  her  wraps  in  the  entrance- 
hall  where  her  escort  left  his  hat,  and  entered  the  dining-room  with 
him  at  once,  to  the  surprise  and  gratification  of  her  hosts.  The 
immediate  acknowledgment  of  an  acceptance  to  a  dinner  is,  in  the 
city,  a  call  within  three  days  after  the  dinner,  unless  there  is 


The  Etiquette  of  Dinners,  133 

marked  intimacy,  in  which  case  a  longer  time  may  be  allowed  to 
elapse  ;  but  no  circumstance  of  ordinary  consequence  should  set 
aside  this  social  form,  even  among  intimate  friends,  for  these  little 
courtesies  are  the  graces  of  friendship.  In  the  country,  where 
it  is  not  easy  to  get  about,  more  latitude  in  point  of  time  is 
permissible ;  unless  an  immediate  return  of  hospitality  is  contem- 
plated, any  reasonable  time  may  elapse  before  the  call  of  acknowl- 
edgment is  made. 

The  most  enjoyable  dinners  are  those  where  every  one  is  at 
ease.  Given  the  fact  that  the  selection  of  the  guests  is  perfect, 
their  number  should  not  be  greater  for  a  private  dinner  than  the 
hostess  can  render  all  requisite  courtesies  to.  Then,  too,  every 
care  should  be  taken,  previous  to  the  dinner,  to  insure  absolute 
ease  on  the  part  of  the  hosts.  The  comfort  of  guests  depends 
upon  equal  and  perfect  service,  as  much  as  upon  excellent  cook- 
ery. As  has  been  said  already,  one  well-trained  servant  can  at- 
tend to  ten  or  twelve  guests  with  the  American  dinner  or  the 
service  a  la  Russe;  but  if  the  service  is  English,  or  if  the  number 
of  guests  is  larger,  there  should  be  one  or  more  other  servants  ; 
and  for  elaborate  dinners  a  butler  should  attend  to  the  wine, 
direct  the  general  table  routine,  and,  when  not  actually  engaged, 
stand  beside  the  host  or  hostess  and  watch  to  make  sure  that  no 
person  is  unserved,  because  it  is  exceedingly  awkward  for  a  guest 
to  ask  for  attention.  The  hostess  so  largely  depends  upon  the 
servants  for  ease  during  the  progress  of  the  dinner,  that  she  should 
see  before  the  entertainment  that  they  are  entirely  conversant  with 
the  wants  of  guests  and  the  capacity  of  the  establishment.  This 
point  is  especially  essential  when  temporary  attendants  are  brought 
in  ;  they  should  be  well  informed  concerning  all  the  facilities  of 
the  house  which  can  in  any  way  affect  the  comfort  of  the  guests. 
These  details  of  service  as  closely  affect  the  perfection  of  dinner 
giving  as  does  the  deportment  of  the  hostess  when  she  stands 
ready  to  receive  her  guests. 


134  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

If  the  resources  of  the  establishment  are  limited,  a  perfectly 
quiet  entertainment  should  be  given,  the  requirements  of  which 
come  within  the  capacity  of  the  household.  A  good  hostess 
never  inflicts  the  chance  of  failure  upon  her  friends,  and  never 
makes  experiments  with  her  guests.  Her  servants  know 
just  what  they  have  to  do,  and  do  not  either  cause  delay  by 
being  unprepared,  or  make  a  noisy  haste  in  performing  their 
duties.  If  any  accident  occurs  at  the  table,  they  know  how 
to  remedy  it  quietly,  and  they  do  everything  necessary  to 
the  comfort  of  the  hour,  without  prompting.  If  the  hostess 
knows  that  her  servant  will  spread  a  fresh  napkin  over  sauce 
spilled  upon  the  cloth  from  a  dish,  or  cover  a  claret  stain  with 
salt  and  conceal  it  with  a  napkin,  she  will  naturally  be  easier 
than  if  she  thinks  such  possible  mishaps  must  go  unremedied :  in 
a  word,  if  she  feels  sure  of  her  service,  she  can  give  every  thought 
to  the  entertainment  of  her  guests.  All  this  is  very  easy  to  sug- 
gest ;  it  is  possible  to  accomplish  if  the  hostess  has  tact  and 
management,  and  sufficient  good  sense  to  limit  her  social  ambi- 
tion by  her  own  ability  to  carry  out  her  plans.  She  will  never 
attempt  to  exceed  her  means  in  dispensing  hospitality  ;  her  table 
appointments  will  be  abundant  and  suitable,  even  if  they  are 
simple.  Her  choice  of  dishes  will  be  confined  to  those  which  she 
knows  can  be  well  made  at  home,  or  she  will  call  in  competent 
outside  help  to  insure  success  in  specialties.  She  will  never 
affront  her  guests  by  serving  a  dish  that  is  not  absolutely  good ; 
and,  unless  for  very  formal  occasions,  she  will  place  before  them 
delicacies  such  as  she  is  famous  for  making  or  ordering.  Unless 
they  are  intimate  friends,  she  will  not  urge  them  to  partake  of  her 
fare,  or  invite  comments  upon  it ;  but  she  can  none  the  less  stamp 
her  dinners  with  her  own  individuality.  The  novice  in  dinner 
giving  should  confine  her  first  efforts  within  small  bounds,  begin- 
ing  with  few  dishes,  a  very  simple  service,  and  a  small  number  of 
guests  ;  as  she  gains  the  confidence  which  follows  frequent  efforts, 


The  Etiquette  of  Dinners. 


135 


she  can  safely  extend  her  hospitality,  but  she  should  take  care 
that  it  never  becomes  ostentatious.  Efforts  to  make  a  lavish  dis- 
play are  vulgar.  The  model  hostess  gives  well-chosen  guests  the 
best  of  her  fare,  and  so  marks  her  superiority ;  but  the  parvenue 
exhausts  the  market  to  overload  a  table,  and  yet  fails  to  create 
enjoyable  dinners. 

The  formal  dinner  invitation  is  a  courtesy  which  a  guest  even 
of  intimate  standing  has  a  right  to  expect  from  the  hostess ;  it 
may  either  be  written  upon  fine  stationery  or  engraved  in  script. 
The  prevailing  form  is  : 


Mr.  and  Mrs. _ 

request  the  pleasure  of 

Mr.  and  Mrs.^..  


company  at  dinner, 
Jamtary  Second,  at  Eight  o'clock, 

No.  joo  Madison  A  venue. 
The  favor  of  an  answer  is  requested. 


A  written  answer  should  be  returned  directly  the  invitation  is 
received,  using  the  same  personal  form  that  appears  on  the 
invitation.  If  the  invitation  is  accepted,  and  any  circumstance 
arises  to  prevent  attendance,  the  hostess  should  be  informed  at 
once ;  but  no  trivial  affair  should  be  allowed  to  interfere.  Formal 
invitations  and  replies  to  dinner  invitations  should  be  sent  by 
hand ;  other  invitations  may  go  by  post.  After  a  dinner  a  call 
is  imperative  ;  a  card  is  not  a  proper  acknowledgment.  Invita- 
tions to  dinners  of  more  than  ten  persons  should  go  out  two  weeks 
in  advance  of  the  date  chosen.  A  husband  is  never  invited  with- 
out his  wife,  or  vice  versa,  unless  one  is  known  to  be  an  invalid 
or  out  of  society,  except  where  there  is  sufficient  intimacy  to 
warrant  this  departure  from  formality  when  some  expected  guest 


136  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

disappoints  at  the  last  moment ;  the  affair  should  always  be  clearly 
understood  even  then. 

The  social  duties  of  the  hostess  are  too  clearly  defined  to 
admit  of  any  deviation  from  them,  but  according  to  the  number 
of  her  guests,  and  the  degree  of  intimacy  with  them,  she  may  give 
them  more  or  less  personal  attention — the  fact  being  understood 
that  there  is  ample  attendance  to  insure  every  one's  comfort; 
after  that,  she  may  permit  herself  to  take  some  degree  of  pleasure 
in  the  society  of  her  special  favorites,  although  she  never  may 
give  any  one  but  the  guest  of  honor  such  attention  as  to  be  con- 
spicuous. At  least  half  an  hour  before  the  time  named  for  din- 
ner, the  hostess  should  be  dressed  and  ready  to  receive  her  guests, 
although  they  are  not  expected  to  arrive  much  before  the  dinner- 
hour.  Her  place  should  be  near  enough  the  door  to  permit  her 
to  welcome  each  one  who  enters.  To  the  ladies  she  says  a  pleas- 
ant word  and  establishes  them  comfortably,  chatting  with  them 
between  the  arrivals ;  to  every  gentleman  she  at  once  indicates 
the  lady  whom  he  is  to  take  in  to  dinner,  introducing  him  if  the 
parties  are  strangers.  At  large  and  formal  dinners,  each  gentle- 
man, as  he  passes  from  the  entrance-hall  to  the  drawing-room, 
receives  from  an  attendant  a  small  envelope,  presented  upon  a 
salver,  containing  a  card  bearing  the  name  of  the  lady  he  is  ex- 
pected to  escort,  and  usually  a  small  boutonniere;  if  he  does  not 
know  the  lady  he  must  at  once  inform  the  hostess,  so  that  the 
necessary  introduction  can  take  place.  The  short  interval  be- 
tween the  arrival  of  the  guests  and  the  service  of  the  dinner  may 
be  spent  in  greeting  acquaintances  and  in  pleasant  chat  about 
passing  events  or  subjects  of  general  interest ;  all  dinner  talk 
should  be  light  and  amusing,  but  even  commonplace  is  more  ac- 
ceptable than  silence.  The  wise  ones  avail  themselves  of  this 
opportunity  to  approach  those  to  whom  they  wish  to  speak,  be- 
cause they  know  that  during  dinner  conversation  is  possible  only 
between  neighbors,  and  after  it  is  over  all  are  likely  to  be  en- 


The  Etiquette  of  Dinners.  137 

grossed  in  following  up  dinner-table  topics,  or  the  departure  of 
guests  may  render  intercourse  impossible. 

When  all  the  guests  have  arrived,  a  servant  opens  the  dining- 
room  door  when  it  adjoins  the  drawing-room,  or  otherwise  he  ap- 
proaches the  hostess,  and  says,  "  Dinner  is  served/'  or  "  Madame 
is  served."  The  host  then  leads  the  way  to  the  dining-room, 
with  the  oldest  or  most  distinguished  lady  present  upon  his  arm. 
No  delay  is  made  for  guests,  unless  they  are  of  much  importance  : 
it  is  the  imperative  duty  of  a  guest  to  be  punctual ;  far  better  to 
exceed  in  earliness  than  to  be  one  moment  late.  In  the  dining- 
room,  the  servant  draws  out  the  chair  of  the  guest  of  honor,  or 
that  of  the  lady  whom  the  host  escorts ;  if  there  are  attendants 
enough,  the  chairs  of  all  the  guests  may  be  drawn  out,  and 
replaced  by  the  attendants  as  the  guests  are  seated.  All  seat 
themselves  as  they  enter  the  room,  each  gentleman  assisting  the 
lady  he  escorts  when  there  are  not  enough  servants  to  place  the 
chairs.  As  the  guests  arrange  themselves  comfortably  at  the 
table,  they  may  unfold  their  napkins  and  begin  to  eat  the  shell- 
fish, without  waiting  until  all  are  placed  when  the  number  is  at 
all  large.  Usually  there  is  no  formal  beginning,  except  at  pri- 
vate dinners,  when  some  ceremonial  of  grace  preludes  the  repast ; 
taste  and  custom  regulate  these  matters.  In  entering  the 
dining-room  after  the  host,  there  is  no  special  order  of  precedence 
in  America,  unless  the  chief  magistrate  or  some  locally  honored 
personage  is  present ;  ordinarily  the  gentleman  who  is  the 
guest  of  honor  goes  into  the  dining-room  last,  with  the  hostess, 
and  is  seated  at  her  right.  If  the  table  is  small,  the  host  indi- 
cates the  places  the  guests  are  to  occupy  as  they  enter  the 
room ;  if  the  party  is  large,  a  little  menu-card  is  placed  at  each 
cover,  bearing  the  name  of  the  guest  for  whom  it  is  designed. 
After  the  shell- fish  is  eaten,  the  lady  who  is  escorted  by  the  hos^ 
and  who  sits  at  his  right  hand,  is  served  first,  then  the  other 
ladies,  and  after  them  the  gentlemen ;  each  guest  may  begin  to 


138  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

eat  as  soon  as  served.     The  routine  of  the  dinner  has  been  given 
elsewhere. 

At  the  close  of  the  dinner,  the  hostess  bows  to  the  lady  at 
the  right  of  the  host,  who  rises,  and  opens  the  door  for  her,  and 
she  leads  the  way  out  of  the  dining-room,  the  other  ladies  fol- 
lowing her,  and  the  hostess  going  last;  this,  of  course,  is  at  large 
formal  dinners,  otherwise  there  is  no  special  form  imperative. 
It  is  a  graceful  courtesy  for  the  gentlemen  to  rise  as  the  ladies 
leave  the  table,  and  assist  them  with  their  chairs.  Sometimes 
they  prefer  to  accompany  them  to  the  drawing-room  ;  but  if  any 
remain  at  the  table,  the  host  must  stay  with  them,  and  see  that 
they  are  served  with  wine  or  cordials,  and  coffee  and  cigars.  It  is 
of  course  understood,  in  polite  society,  that  no  excess  is  tolerated  ; 
and  any  young  man  showing  any  inclination  to  pass  the  limits  of 
moderation  very  soon  finds  himself  tabooed.  The  use  of  wine  at 
ordinary  dinners  is  a  matter  of  solely  personal  preference,  but  at 
state  dinners  its  absence  would  be  an  affront  to  the  guests. 

In  the  drawing-room,  the  hostess  should  always  chat  a  little 
with  all  her  guests,  even  if  the  number  is  large ;  but  she  should 
pay  special  attention  to  strangers.  If  there  is  any  lady  present 
accomplished  in  any  way,  the  hostess  may  request  her  to  assist 
in  entertaining  the  others ;  and  compliance  on  the  part  of  the 
guest  should  be  immediate  and  cheerful,  unless  there  is  some 
grave  reason  for  declining.  The  hostess  may  omit  such  requests 
for  assistance,  without  implying  any  offence.  In  the  case  of 
guests  who  are  professionally  distinguished,  this  question  of 
entertainment  should  always  be  previously  understood,  because 
sometimes  there  are  objections  to  their  contributing  to  the 
evening's  amusement.  After  the  gentlemen  enter  the  drawing- 
room,  tea  should  be  served,  and  then  the  guests  are  at  liberty  to 
depart ;  but  where  strict  social  propriety  is  preserved,  no  one 
should  leave  until  after  the  guest  of  honor  has  gone.  As  each 
guest  takes  leave  of  the  hostess,  a  few  words  should  be  said  in 


The  Etiquette  of  Dinners. 


139 


CHATEAU 

VQUEM, 

1858. 


acknowledgment  of  the  enjoyment  of  a  pleasant  evening,  with- 
out any  reference  to  the  dinner  itself.  The  call  after  the  dinner 
should  be  made  in  due  time,  as  also  should  the  reciprocating 

hospitality. 

BILL  OF  FARE. 

Oysters  or  Clams  on  the  half-shell,  very  small. 

SOUP. 

Consommd,  Terrapin  Clear  Soup,  Potage  at  la  Reine,  or  Bisque. 
Cantaloupe,  Watermelon,  Pineapple,  Grape  Fruit  or  Oranges. 

FISH. 

Broiled  Spanish  Mackerel,  Shad,  Striped  Bass,  or  Blue  Fish;  or, 
Boiled  Salmon,  Sheepshead,  Sea  Bass,  Turbot,  or  Trout ;  with 
Bermuda,  Hollandaise,  Duchesse,  Parisienne,  or  Irish  Potatoes. 
Cucumbers. 

RELISHES. 
Olives.     Tunny  Fish.      Filets   of  Anchovies    or   Sardines.      Stuffed 

Olives.      Caviare. 
French  Radishes.     East  India  Gherkins.     Salted  Almonds.     Cheese 

Straws.     Pickles. 
Small  Patties  or  Bouche'es  cold,  with  highly  seasoned  garniture  of  fish, 

poultry  or  game. 

Fine  Table  Sauces.     Anchovy  Butter.     Celery.     Small  Raw  Toma- 
toes.    Choice  Cheese. 

ENTRIES  AND  ENTREMETS. 

Vol-au-vents  of  Poultry  and  Game,  Croquettes,  Blanquettes,  Scallops, 

Salmis, 
Sweetbreads,    broiled,    fried    or    stewed,    with    Mushrooms,    Peas, 

Asparagus  or  Tomato  Sauce. 
Chicken,  fritot,  broiled,   Maryland  style,  with  Mayonnaise  filets,  and 

Pinions  saute'es. 
Filet  of  beef,  larded,  with  Mushrooms,  Spaghetti,  Stuffed  Tomatoes, 

or  vegetable  garniture. 
Lamb  Cutlets,  breaded,  truffled,  en  papillate,  with  Peas,  Asparagus  or 

Cauliflower. 
Any  Vegetable,  stewed  with  a  sauce.     Fritters  of  Rice,  Hominy  and 

Flour,  with  sauce. 
Sweet  Puddings,  with  sauces.    Charlottes     Pastry.    Jellies.    Moulded 

Creams. 
..  Sorbet.     Sherbet.     Roman  Punch.     Champagne  glace. 

ROAST. 

Any  Game  or  Game  Birds,  roasted,  and  served  with  a  green  salad. 

DESSERT. 

Ice  Creams,  with  Canton  Ginger.  Water  Ices.  Frozen  Puddings  of 
fruit  and  fine  cake.  Ices.  Confectionery.  Candied  Fruit.  Nuts. 
Foreign  Preserves  without  syrup.  Oriental  Sweetmeats.  Coffee. 


CHATEAU 
LAROSE, 

1858. 


VERZE- 
NAVE 

SEC. 


THE  ETIQUETTE  OF  VARIOUS  ENTERTAINMENTS. 

Large  Breakfasts. 

As  breakfasts  are  far  less  expensive  than  dinner  parties,  and 
as  the  time  chosen,  between  nine  and  twelve  o'clock,  is  generally 
less  full  than  the  evening  hours,  these  entertainments  are  greatly- 
favored  by  people  of  leisure.  In  common  with  luncheons,  they 
afford  a  pleasant  and  available  form  of  hospitality  which  gentle- 
men without  establishments  can  offer  to  their  lady  friends.  The 
etiquette  is  very  simple;  an  informal  written  invitation,  sent  either 
by  hand  or  post,  to  which  there  is  an  immediate  corresponding 
response,  and  a  return  entertainment  during  the  season,  when 
the  breakfast  is  given  by  a  lady,  fulfill  all  requirements.  The 
toilet  for  guests  is  a  walking  costume,  and  for  the  host  a  quiet 
morning  toilet.  The  place  of  the  entertainment  may  be  in  one's 
own  house,  or  at  any  well-known  restaurant. 

The  table  should  be  laid  in  a  sunny,  cheerful  room,  with 
spotless  linen  and  china,  and  polished  glass  and  silver.  The 
table  arrangement  for  an  elaborate  breakfast  is  the  same  as  for 
dinner,  except  that  no  soup  is  served,  and  the  coffee  and  tea 
equipages  are  placed  upon  the  table.  Bread,  butter,  relishes, 
condiments,  fruit  and  flowers  are  upon  the  table ;  the  hot  dishes 
are  upon  the  sideboard  in  charing  dishes,  or  are  served  hot  from 
the  kitchen  in  courses,  according  to  the  preference  of  the  host. 
Hot  breads  come  to  the  table  with  a  napkin  thrown  over  them,  as 
also  do  baked  potatoes,  fritters,  fried  cakes,  scallops,  gratins,  breaded 
chops,  croquettes,  and  all  dishes  which  would  be  impaired  by 
having  moisture  fall  upon  them  as  it  condenses  on  china  or  silver 
covers.  Dry  toast  should  be  served  in  a  rack,  or  the  slices  set 
on  edge  on  a  hot  plate,  and  only  a  small  quantity  made  and 
served  at  once;  it  should  be  delicately  brown  and  crisp;  buttered 


The  Etiquette  of  Various  Entertainments.  141 

toast  should  be  set  in  the  oven  for  a  moment  after  it  is  made, 
and  then  served  covered  with  a  hot  napkin;  milk  toast  should  be 
served  in  a  covered  dish,  from  which  the  cover  should  be  lifted 
quickly  and  reversed  at  once  to  prevent  the  condensed  steam  falling 
back  upon  the  toast.  Butter  should  be  cut  in  small  squares,  or 
moulded,  and  kept  in  ice  water  or  upon  a  cake  of  ice  until  it  is 
served.  Boiled  eggs  should  be  served  very  hot  the  moment 
they  are  done,  and  eaten  from  the  shell  with  a  spoon;  in 
America  the  custom  prevails  of  breaking  the  eggs  into  a  glass  or 
cup  before  eating  them.  The  shells  of  eggs  should  be  washed  in 
cold  water  before  they  are  boiled.  Fruit  is  placed  upon  the 
table,  and  eaten  as  the  guests  desire.  The  whole  fruits,  such  as 
apples,  oranges,  bananas,  cherries  and  melons,  are  usually  eaten 
at  the  beginning  of  the  repast;  and  those  which  require  sugar, 
such  as  berries,  pineapples  and  peaches,  are  taken  toward  its 
close.  The  cereals,  such  as  oatmeal,  hominy  and  cracked  wheat, 
are  eaten  after  the  whole  fruit,  with  syrup,  cream  or  preserves. 
The  coffee,  chocolate,  cocoa  and  tea  are  taken  at  the  guests' 
pleasure.  After  the  fruit  and  cereals  come  the  small  meats, 
eggs  and  garnished  side  dishes  of  fish,  game  and  poultry.  The 
breakfast  closes  with  the  fried  cakes  and  cut  fruit  with  sugar,  or 
berries,  according  to  the  season. 

When  wines  are  used  at  breakfast,  they  should  be  sauternes, 
white  burgundy,  hock  or  claret. 

A  good  breakfast,  of  medium  extent,  would  be  as  follows : 

BILL  OF  FARE. 

Cantaloupe  or  Oranges. 

Broiled  Fish  with  Stewed  and  Saratoga  Potatoes. 
Maryland  Chicken  with  Cream  Gravy  and  Hominy. 

Iced  Oatmeal  with  Cream.     Olives. 
Small  Tenderloin  Steak  with  Watercresses  and  Radishes. 

Omelette  with  Mushrooms. 

Waffles.     Pone.     Rice  Cakes  with  Maple  Syrup. 
Peaches  iced  and  sugared. 


142  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

The  Family  Breakfast. 

This  meal  is  second  only  in  importance  to  the  dinner, 
especially  when  any  extreme  mental  labor  is  demanded  of  the 
members  of  the  family.  The  importance  of  early  and  substantial 
breakfasts  is  emphasized  in  the  writings  of  the  author  upon 
sanitary  matters,  and  consequently  such  repetition  here  is 
unnecessary;  but  of  the  fact  that  the  housekeeper  should  person- 
ally superintend  and  be  present  at  this  meal,  there  can  be  no 
question.  If  the  breakfast  is  unsatisfactory,  a  man  half  hungry 
or  exhausted  will  generally  have  recourse  to  some  tonic  stimulant 
to  carry  him  through  his  morning  work;  and  a  second  thought 
is  not  needed  to  realize  the  consequence  of  such  a  custom.  Our 
national  habits  demand  that  the  breakfast  shall  be  hot  and 
abundant,  and  that  there  shall  be  such  successive  variety  that 
the  appetite  shall  always  be  stimulated.  Fresh  fruit  in  season, 
or  that  preserved  with  little  or  no  sugar,  or  radishes,  cucumbers, 
tomatoes,  watercress  or  lettuce  should  make  a  part  of  every 
breakfast  if  obtainable.  Oatmeal,  cracked  wheat  or  some  form 
of  hominy  or  corn- meal,  with  cream,  milk,  sugar  or  syrup,  is 
indispensable  when  the  family  includes  children.  Coffee,  choco- 
late and  cocoa  are  suitable  breakfast  beverages,  but  tea  is 
undesirable.  Meat,  eggs,  or  fish  in  some  hot  form  should 
always  be  served,  and  potatoes  or  variety  in  breads  are  desirable. 
Nearly  all  American  breakfasts  include  some  form  of  hot  fried 
cakes  with  syrup  or  sugar. 

The  family  breakfast  table  is  laid  with  the  coffee  service  at 
the  head  of  the  table ;  the  largest  hot  dish  at  the  other  end  ;  a 
knife,  fork,  spoon,  glass,  napkin,  small  bread  and  butter  plate 
and  salt  at  each  cover  ;  and  the  side  dish,  breads  and  fruit  at  con- 
venient places  upon  the  table.  When  fruit  is  served  first  as  a 
separate  course,  it  may  be  placed  before  the  other  dishes  are 
brought  in,  with  a  special  plate,  fruit  knife  and  napkin,  and  a 


The  Etiquette  of  Various  Entertainments.  143 

finger-bowl  for  each  cover,  which  are  to  be  removed  before  the 
breakfast  is  served. 

When  there  are  not  many  servants,  the  care  of  the  breakfast 
table  falls  upon  the  ladies  of  the  family ;  and  there  should  be 
preparations  made  for  clearing  away  the  table,  and  washing  all 
but  the  greasy  dishes  in  the  breakfast-room.  A  side  table  is 
necessary  for  this,  or  a  large  butler's  tray,  upon  which  the  dishes 
can  be  gathered  in  regular  piles  or  groups  after  they  are  freed 
from  the  remains  of  the  breakfast.  Any  dishes  removed  from 
the  table  in  the  course  of  the  meal  can  be  placed  there,  being 
protected  from  flies  if  they  contain  food  which  can  be  used  again  ; 
the  plates  and  saucers  in  little  piles,  the  cups  and  glasses  in 
groups,  and  the  spoons,  knives  and  forks  in  a  tray. 

To  wash  the  dishes,  a  small  wooden  tub  or  a  tin  pan,  with  a 
little  mop  or  a  clean  dishcloth,  soap,  and  plenty  of  hot  water  for 
washing  and  rinsing,  are  required.  The  glasses  are  to  be  washed 
first,  rinsed  in  warm  water,  and  dried  at  once  on  clean  towels ; 
then  the  cups  and  saucers  and  the  sauce  dishes  ;  next  the  silver; 
and  finally  the  dishes  and  empty  platters,  all  scraps  of  food  hav- 
ing first  been  removed  from  them.  The  washing  water  should 
be  changed  frequently,  and  a  little  borax  or  washing  soda  dis- 
solved in  it  to  facilitate  the  removal  of  the  grease.  When  a 
butler's  pantry  adjoins  the  breakfast-room,  the  dishes  are  always 
washed  there ;  the  same  care  being  exercised  in  keeping  the  sink 
clean  as  in  the  kitchen.  Dishes  removed  to  the  kitchen  to  be 
washed  should  be  just  as  neatly  and  carefully  treated  as  in  the 
pantry  or  breakfast- room  ;  after  the  dishcloths  and  towels  are 
used,  they  should  be  thoroughly  washed  in  hot  soapy  water, 
rinsed  in  hot  clean  water  and  dried  in  the  sun,  or  at  least  in  the 
open  air. 

Family  Luncheon. 

The  range  for  family  luncheon  is  as  elastic  as  that  for  more 
formal  occasions.  In  the  country,  and  also  in  town  where  there 


Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

are  children  in  the  family,  it  often  takes  on  the  form  of  a  simple 
dinner ;  in  that  case,  the  service  is  as  for  dinner,  the  dessert 
service  and  tea  and  coffee  being  upon  the  sideboard.  If  the 
luncheon  is  plain,  the  service  is  the  same  as  for  breakfast.  The 
suitable  dishes  are  small  hot  meats,  fish,  game  birds,  poultry, 
dressed  salads,  all  forms  of  potatoes  and  eggs,  bread  and  butter, 
cheese  and  crackers,  vegetables,  fruit  and  sweets.  A  servant 
may  attend,  or  any  one  may  rise  from  the  table  to  fetch  what  is 
required. 

In  the  country,  or  where  the  luncheon  is  practically  the 
children's  dinner,  the  service  should  include  soup  or  bouillon  if 
possible ;  the  latter  is  served  in  shallow  bowl-shaped  cups,  the 
former  in  small  soup  plates.  A  hot  joint,  with  one  cold  meat  if 
desired  in  addition,  potatoes  boiled  or  baked,  and  one  or  more  hot 
vegetables,  together  with  a  simple  dessert,  gives  a  good  luncheon 
variety.  The  covers  are  laid  as  for  dinner,  with  napkin  and 
bread,  two  knives  and  forks,  a  spoon,  water  glass  and  salt;  if 
one  wine  is  used,  it  may  be  claret  or  sherry  at  the  family  lunch- 
eon, or  some  malt  beverage  or  cider  may  replace  the  tea  or  cof- 
fee, at  the  choice  of  the  family.  Among  intimate  friends  an  in- 
vitation to  luncheon  may  be  general,  or  it  is  quite  proper  for  them 
to  claim  hospitality  without  it. 

Luncheon  Parties. 

Luncheons  are  essentially  ladies'  parties,  usually  given  by 
ladies  in  their  own  homes  :  sometimes  an  informal  lunch  is  given 
at  some  restaurant  celebrated  for  some  special  dish,  but  the 
preference  is  for  the  home  entertainment.  The  invitations  are 
the  same  as  for  breakfasts.  The  table  is  laid  as  for  dinner,  save 
that  the  linen  may  be  embroidered  or  colored ;  and  any  dinner 
form  of  service  may  be  followed,  save  that  some  of  the  courses 
are  omitted.  At  an  informal  luncheon  all  the  dishes  may  be 


The  Etiquette  of  Various  Entertainments.  145 

placed  upon  the  table  at  once,  after  the  shell- fish  and  bouillon  are 
eaten;  and  then  the  attendants  may  be  sent  from  the  room  if  the 
guests  wish  to  be  alone  with  the  hostess.  Fruit,  flowers  and 
relishes  may  be  used  in  decorating  the  table,  together  with  any 
sweets  not  iced ;  these  are  to  be  served  at  the  moment  of  eating. 
Bonbons,  preserves  and  confectionery  are  in  place  on  the  lunch 
table.  The  bill  of  fare  may  range  from  crackers  and  cheese  and 
ale,  to  a  menu  elaborate  enough  for  a  little  dinner.  The  formal 
luncheon  begins  with  bouillon  or  broth  served  in  china  bowl- 
shaped  cups  standing  in  saucers,  or  with  a  dinner  soup  served  in 
a  soup  plate ;  next  come  the  hot  entrees,  combination  salads, 
terrapin  ;  and  then  Roman  punch  and  the  broiled  game  with  green 
salad  ;  and  last  the  sweets  and  fruit.  Chocolate  is  an  appropri- 
ate luncheon  beverage,  as  also  are  malt  liquors  for  plain  lunches. 
The  luncheon  wines  are  sauterne,  sherry,  and  champagne ;  or 
the  different  summer  beverages,  such  as  claret  cup  and  its 
kindred,  may  be  used ;  or  wine  may  be  omitted  altogether,  at 
choice.  The  formal  luncheon  is  served  like  the  dinner  a  la 
Russe,  the  attendant  beginning  the  service  with  the  lady  at  the 
right  hand  of  the  hostess.  The  guests'  preference  is  asked  in  the 
matter  of  wine ;  the  plates  are  changed  as  at  dinner,  cold  ones 
being  used  for  salad  and  dessert ;  finger  bowls  are  placed  with  the 
dessert,  after  the  table  has  been  cleared.  When  fresh  sugared  or 
small  fruits  are  used,  they  are  served  in  fancy  saucers  set  on  a 
napkin  laid  in  a  dessert  plate  ;  and  a  silver  knife,  fork  and  spoon 
are  placed  beside  the  plate  as  it  is  laid  upon  the  table  by  the 
waiter.  Ice  creams  and  ices  served  in  small  paper  cases  are  also 
placed  upon  a  napkin  in  a  dessert  plate.  Berries  are  eaten  from 
the  stem  or  with  a  spoon  ;  cut  sugared  fruits  with  a  spoon ; 
melons  with  knife  and  fork  or  a  spoon,  according  to  their  solidity  ; 
grapes  are  eaten  from  the  fingers,  and  care  is  taken  to  delicately 
place  the  seeds  and  skins  upon  the  plate.  Hard  cheese  is  eaten 
with  a  fork  or  from  the  fingers  ;  the  soft,  rich  kinds  may  be  put 


146  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

upon  a  biscuit  or  piece  of  bread  with  the  knife,  and  so  lifted  to 
the  mouth.  Salads  are  eaten  with  the  fork,  a  knife  being  used  to 
divide  them.  At  the  earlier  stages  of  the  repast,  the  fork  is  used 
for  croquettes,  vegetables,  fish  and  small  carved  entrees,  the  knife 
being  Uied  only  when  absolutely  necessary  for  cutting. 

Luncheon  favors,  which  are  to  be  carried  away  by  the  guests, 
may  consist  of  bonbonnieres,  fans,  little  bags  or  baskets,  flowers 
in  fancy  holders,  bouquet  pins,  menu  holders  when  there  are  bills 
of  fare,  or  any  pretty  trifle. 

The  invitations  to  small  luncheons  may  be  written  on  the 
ordinary  note  paper,  or  engraved  in  script  on  cards  when  the 
affair  is  to  be  formal. 

The  following  is  a  good  menu  of  a  luncheon    of  moderate 

size: 

BILL  OF  FAKE. 

Bouillon. 

Lobster  Chops  with  Tomato  Sauce. 

Cucumbers.     Olives.     Radishes.     Crackers  and  Cheese. 

Mayonnaise  of  Chicken.      Vol-au-vent  of  Oysters. 

Breast  of  Grouse  broiled,  with  Orange  Salad. 
Lettuce  Salad.      Roquefort  Cheese.     Toasted  Crackers. 
Bavarian  Cream.     Noyeau  Jelly.      Tutti  Frutti. 
Chocolate.     Fruit.     Bonbons. 

Afternoon  Receptions. 

The  double  motive  of  securing  the  visits  of  pleasant  friends 
and  of  massing  together  such  tedious  ones  as  might  be  unwel- 
come, leads  many  ladies  to  choose  a  day  for  the  reception  of 
visitors.  The  time  is  specified  upon  the  visiting  cards  which  are 
used  with  those  to  whom  one  desires  to  be  "at  home."  The 
form  may  be  "At  home  Wednesdays"  "  Wednesdays,  4  to  6,"  or 
when  it  is  desirable  to  limit  the  time,  "  Wednesdays  in  December"  ; 
the  day,  hour  or  month  being  chosen  with  reference  to  other 
social  duties  or  occupations.  Very  often  married  ladies  invite 


The  Etiquette  of  Various  Entertainments.  147 

some  young  friend  to  receive  with  them,  and  in  that  case  the 
young  lady's  name  appears  upon  the  card  of  the  hostess: 


Miss... 

At  Home. 

Wednesday,  December  Second,  from  Four  to  Six. 
29  West  Forty-first  Street. 


The  receipt  of  a  card  bearing  a  date  like  this  is  an  invitation 
to  the  recipient ;  if  the  hour  named  is  in  daylight,  the  costume 
called  for  is  a  quietly  elegant  carriage  toilet  or  walking  dress, 
with  an  appropriate  bonnet  and  wrap.  Cards  are  not  left  by  the 
callers  unless  there  is  a  card  receiver  in  the  entrance  hall;  in 
that  case  the  card  is  left  there  when  the  guest  departs.  As  the 
servant  opens  the  door,  the  visitors  pass  at  once  into  the  draw- 
ing-room, where  the  hostess  receives ;  her  dress  should  be  a 
fresh  but  not  too  elaborate  home  toilette.  Callers  are  not 
necessarily  introduced,  but  they  are  at  liberty  to  chat  with 
each  other,  because  discrimination  in  the  distribution  of  cards 
is  taken  for  granted,  and  the  hostess  must  manage  to  entertain 
all  with  equal  attention;  in  order  to  assist  the  hostess  in  this 
rather  difficult  position,  the  call  should  be  short.  If  it  is  impos- 
sible to  call  upon  set  days,  the  visitor  should  be  content  to  leave 
her  card,  as  only  decided  intimacy  warrants  a  request  to  see  a 
lady  except  upon  her  "days."  When  refreshments  are  served 
at  these  afternoon  receptions,  they  should  be  quite  simple  ;  a  few 
fancy  biscuit  or  petit-fours,  with  wine  or  cordial,  may  be  upon  a 
a  side  table  where  one  of  the  ladies  of  the  family  presides,  or  they 


148 


Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 


may  be  passed  upon  a  small  salver  by  a  maidservant.  Cake 
and  lemonade,  or  very  dainty  sandwiches  and  tea,  may  be  used 
with  discretion  ;  in  any  case  the  refreshment  must  be  light,  other- 
wise the  reception  takes  on  the  appearance  of  a  kettledrum. 

Afternoon  Teas. 

The  pleasantest  of  all  informal  social  gatherings  are  those 
known  as  teas,  high  teas  and  kettledrums;  sometimes  they  take 
their  name  from  some  special  characteristic,  such  as  the  color  of 
the  tea  equipage  or  of  the  napery  or  the  flowers,  lovely  effects 
being  possible.  The  hostess  invites  a  few  friends,  either  verb- 
ally or  by  an  informal  note ;  or,  when  these  entertainments  are 
to  be  frequent,  she  may  save  herself  trouble  by  having  a  card 
engraved  in  script,  with  blanks  for  dates : 


Mrs.. 


Wednesday,  ... 


Tea  at  Five  o'clock. 

No.  5   West  Twenty-third  Street. 


When  young  ladies  receive,  their  names  appear  on  their 
mother's  card ;  if  the  mother  is  dead,  upon  the  father's  card,  and 
the  card  of  the  chaperone  who  is  to  assist  them  is  sent  at  the  same 
time.  The  invitations  are  given  about  three  days  in  advance, 
and  should  receive  the  courtesy  of  a  written  answer ;  after  the 
tea  a  card  should  be  left  within  two  or  three  days  by  those 
invited  as  well  as  by  the  guests,  unless  the  latter  are  intimate, 
when  the  call  may  be  omitted,  but  the  tea  must  be  returned  in 


The  Etiquette  of  Various  Entertainments.  149 

due  season.  The  hostess  usually  invites  friends,  or  those  whom 
she  knows  wish  to  become  acquainted.  The  proper  toilet  is  the 
same  as  for  afternoon  receptions.  If  the  tea  table  is  large,  it 
may  be  laid  with  an  embroidered  cloth  with  napkins  to  match  ; 
ornamented  china  and  flowers  may  be  used.  Where  the  large 
table  is  used,  and  there  are  several  ladies  to  assist  in  entertaining 
the  guests,  they  may  be  seated  at  it ;  but  when  the  hostess  pre- 
sides alone,  it  is  more  convenient  and  pleasant  to  have  the  tea 
served  from  a  side  table  by  the  servants,  to  little  tables  placed 
near  groups  of  guests  in  different  parts  of  the  room.  Some  of 
these  little  tables  are  provided  with  an  under-shelf  which  is 
available  for  an  extra  plate  or  cup.  The  ornamentation  of  the 
small  tables  is  often  beautiful  in  the  extreme,  as  they  are  a 
favorite  medium  for  displaying  the  skill  of  the  hostess  in  embroid- 
ery, or  her  taste  in  the  choice  of  harmonious  surroundings. 

Some  teas  take  their  title  from  a  speciality  of  ornamentation ; 
for  instance,  at  a  pink  tea  the  prevailing  color  in  table  linen, 
china  and  flowers,  would  be  pink ;  at  a  rose  tea,  rose  color  would 
exceed,  and  the  flowers  would  be  roses,  including  a  corsage 
bouquet  for  each  guest,  or  a  choice  flower  in  the  winter  season; 
The  tea  should  consist  of  thin  bread  and  butter,  delicate  sand- 
wiches and  relishes,  and  some  very  good  tea.  The  finer  brands  of 
Chinese  and  Russian  tea  can  now  sometimes  be  obtained  in  this 
country.  A  favorite  English  mixture  is  one  pound  of  Congo  to 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  each  of  Assam  and  Orange  Pekoe;  another 
delicious  tea  mixture  which  is  sent  to  Eastern  friends  from  ladies 
in  San  Francisco  is  the  Chinese  Kettledrum  brand.  Cake,  coffee, 
oysters  or  dressed  salads  may  be  served  if  desired  ;  but  the  table 
should  never  be  overloaded,  or  exhibit  an  ostentatious  display. 

Family  Teas. 

At  family  teas  or  suppers  the  table  is  laid  in  the  same  way  as 
for  breakfast,  except  that  the  tea  equipage  replaces  that  used  for 


150  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

coffee;  unless  the  tray  is  of  silver,  it  is  now  the  custom  to  lay  the 
.cups  and  saucers  upon  the  table  cloth,  and  place  the  rest  of  the 
service  toward  the  right  hand  and  in  front  of  the  hostess.  The 
usual  dibhes  are  small  hot  breads,  toast,  preserves  or  honey,  cake, 
bread  and  butter,  cheese,  with  either  cold  or  hot  meat,  game  or 
eggs  in  some  form.  The  service  is  always  quiet  and  informal 

Gentlemen's  Suppers. 

As  ladies  entertain  their  intimates  at  luncheons,  so  gentlemen 
delight  in  special  suppers — fish  suppers,  game  suppers,  oyster 
suppers  or  general  entertainments  where  the  menu  embraces  all 
the  delicacies  of  the  season.  As  the  hostess  never  appears  at 
these  suppers,  they  can  be  made  absolutely  perfect  if  she  is  a  good 
housewife.  They  may  either  be  parties  of  invitation,  the  guests 
being  notified  three  or  four  days  in  advance,  or  impromptu  when 
the  scope  of  one's  establishment  permits  a  sudden  accession  in 
numbers.  The  hour  chosen  is  generally  late,  after  a  card  party 
or  a  visit  to  some  place  of  amusement  The  table  appointments 
may  be  the  same  as  for  breakfasts  or  luncheons,  according  to  the 
service  of  tea  and  coffee  or  wine.  There  should  always  be  black 
coffee  served  from  the  side  table,  some  flowers  and  fruit,  plenty 
of  light,  and  wine  at  discretion  or  claret  or  champagne  cup  in 
summer.  The  dishes  suitable  for  gentlemen's  suppers  are  hot 
and  cold  entrees,  the  latter  being  small  and  highly  seasoned, 
plenty  of  relishes,  salads  with  mayonnaise,  shell-fish  and  game  of 
all  kinds,  Welsh  rarebits  and  other  forms  of  cheese,  crackers, 
scalloped  and  devilled  dishes,  and  a  few  sweets  if  the  party  is 
large.  Unless  the  occasion  is  some  special  one,  all  formality  of 
service  is  dispensed  with,  the  dishes  all  being  placed  upon  the 
table  at  the  beginning  of  the  supper,  the  hot  ones  over  chafing 
dishes,  and  the  attendants  leaving  the  room  after  the  first  service. 
Malted  beverages  may  be  substituted  for  wine,  or  tea,  coffee  and 
chocolate  used  at  the  pleasure  of  the  guests. 


The  Etiquette  of  Various  Entertainments.  151 

Supper  Parties. 

At  the  set  supper,  whether  it  follows  an  evening  at  the 
theater  or  an  entertainment  at  home,  or  whether  it  is  made  the 
subject  of  special  invitation,  the  service  is  either  that  of  the  lunch- 
eon for  informal  affairs,  or  that  of  the  dinner  a  la  Russe,  in 
courses  with  appropriate  wines,  except  that  no  soup  is  used, 
either  bouillon  or  stewed  oysters  replacing  it.  Oysters  in  any 
form  and  in  variety  are  appropriate  at  all  suppers,  except  that 
raw  oysters  are  not  usually  served  at  ball  suppers.  A  plain  sup- 
per may  consist  of  a  dish  of  oysters,  a  cold  roast  chicken,  and  a 
salad  ;  one  wine  or  punch,  or  tea  or  coffee,  at  pleasure.  A  hot 
supper,  a  little  more  elaborate,  might  be  of  bouillon,  sweetbreads 
with  peas,  asparagus  or  mushrooms,  hot  broiled  or  roasted  game, 
a  salad,  an  ice,  champagne  and  coffee,  and  some  bonbons.  Still 
another,  more  extensive,  might  be  bouillon,  small  hot  entrees  of 
oysters,  sweetbreads,  foie-gras,  and  terrapin ;  game  with  salad, 
and  a  little  rich  old  cheese ;  then  jellies,  ices,  fruit,  coffee,  and  a 
liqueur  or  brandy.  The  best  light  supper  drinks  are  the  different 
"  cups";  the  favorite  supper  wines  are  sherry,  madeira,  burgundy 
and  champagne  ;  the  winter  beverages  are  mulled  wine,  egg  nog 
and  punch. 

At  all  suppers  the  host  takes  the  most  distinguished  or  the 
oldest  lady  present  to  the  supper  room ;  the  guests  follow  with- 
out any  special  precedence ;  and  the  hostess  comes  last,  having 
with  her  the  guest  to  whom  she  wishes  to  pay  the  most  attention. 
The  servants  do  not  leave  the  supper  room  unless  all  the  dishes 
are  placed  upon  the  table  at  once  :  in  that  case,  they  may  be  dis- 
missed after  the  first  service  of  the  guests. 

Evening  Parties. 

At  evening  parties  where  the  entertainment  is  dancing  or 
music  and  conversation,  the  refreshment  may  be  elaborate  or 


152  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

simple,  as  the  hostess  chooses ;  cake,  chocolate,  and  ices  are  suit- 
able, or  sherry  and  biscuit,  or  a  bowl  of  punch  and  little  cakes ; 
or  a  table  may  be  arranged  with  white  linen,  flowers,  fruit,  salads, 
and  cold  entrees,  ice  cream  and  cake,  ices,  punch,  egg  nog,  tea, 
coffee,  wine,  claret  cup  or  champagne,  as  one's  inclination  or 
means  dictate.  From  the  simplest  to  the  most  elaborate  the 
range  is  permissible,  always  with  the  intent  to  escape  vulgar  pro- 
fusion. The  collation  may  be  served  at  any  hour  after  ten 
o'clock  if  there  is  a  set  table ;  or  it  may  be  upon  a  side  table  if 
simple,  to  be  partaken  of  at  the  desire  of  the  guests. 

Cinderella  Parties. 

The  popular  English  entertainments  called  Cinderella  parties 
are  simply  evening  dances  beginning  at  an  early  hour,  say  nine 
o'clock,  and  ending  at  midnight.  The  dress,  refreshments  and 
etiquette  are  the  same  as  for  ordinary  evening  parties.  The 
invitations  are  "  at  home  "  cards,  with  the  hour  and  date  written 
in,  and  "  Cinderella  Dancing  "  written  or  printed  in  one  corner, 
at  the  choice  of  the  hostess ;  the  invitations  are  sent  out  at  a 
length  of  time  in  advance  corresponding  to  the  importance  of  the 
entertainment. 

Card  Parties. 

These  parties  are  good  amusements  for  evenings  in  autumn 
and  winter.  They  are  usually  composed  of  intimates  ;  the  entire 
service  is  informal,  and  very  little  of  the  burden  of  entertainment 
falls  upon  the  hosts.  And  only  the  lightest  of  refreshments  are 
necessary :  they  should  be  of  such  nature  as  to  admit  partaking 
of  them  without  interfering  with  the  games ;  either  sherry  and 
biscuit,  claret  cup,  or  tea  and  coffee,  with  little  cakes,  or  ale, 
crackers  and  cheese,  are  suitable  and  sufficient ;  they  may  be 
served  from  a  side  table,  or  placed  upon  little  tables  near  the 


The  Etiquette  of  Various  Entertainments.  I  5  3 

guest  as  at  afternoon  teas.  Claret  cup  is  made  either  in  a  fancy 
flagon  or  pitcher  of  glass,  or  in  a  large  silver  "loving  cup  "  hold- 
ing over  a  quart,  made  in  the  form  of  a  high  vase,  richly  engraved 
and  decorated ;  when  the  beverage  is  drunk  as  a  "  loving  cup,"  a 
large,  fine  white  napkin  is  placed  in  one  of  the  handles  for  the 
purpose  of  wiping  the  edge  of  the  cup  after  each  guest  drinks 
from  it.  When  cards  are  objectionable,  dominoes,  checkers,  or 
chess  may  replace  them  ;  the  purpose  of  all  such  games  being 
social  amusement. 

Calling  During  Entertainments. 

When  a  chance  caller  arrives  at  a  house  while  any  enter- 
tainment is  going  on,  to  which  guests  have  been  invited,  it  is 
perfectly  permissible  for  the  hostess  to  be  "not  at  home";  this 
excuse,  given  by  the  servant  at  the  door,  should  never  be  made 
a  subject  of  social  comment  or  offence,  because  the  hostess  has  a 
right  to  decide  what  friends  she  shall  select  to  partake  of  any 
form  of  pleasure,  or  for  the  discharge  of  her  social  obligations. 

New  Year's  Receptions. 

These  once  favorite  receptions  are  gradually  falling  out  of 
use,  but  a  few  hints  may  be  given  for  those  who  wish  to  pursue 
the  old  custom.  It 'is  quite  proper  to  offer  only  hot  coffee  and  a 
sandwich;  or  one  wine  and  a  plain  cake  or  biscuit;  a  bowl  of 
punch,  a  tureen  of  hot  bouillon,  and  a  salad  and  some  cold  game 
or  a  galantine;  or  hot  oysters  or  terrapin  and  maderia — any  of 
these  are  suitable;  but  the  service  should  be  simple  in  the 
extreme,  one  maid  attending  at  the  table  or  sideboard.  At  the 
door  a  maid  or  a  man  may  attend.  The  caller  upon  entering 
sends  in  his  card,  unless  he  is  a  rather  intimate  friend,  in  which 
case  he  enters  the  drawing-room  at  once,  and  leaves  his  card 
when  he  departs,  upon  the  card  receiver  in  the  hall.  When 


154  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

ladies  do  not  wish  to  receive,  a  small  basket  is  placed  outside 
the  door  for  callers  to  drop  their  cards  into. 

Wedding  Receptions  and  Breakfasts. 

The  invitations  are  in  the  name  of  the  parents  or  of  the 
surviving  parent,  engraved  in  script  upon  note  paper.  The 
prevailing  form  is : 


Mr.  and  Mrs.. 


request  the  pleasure  of  your  company  at  the 
Wedding  of  tfieir  Daughter 

_ tO _.. 

at   the   Church   of  the   Trinity, 

on  Wednesday,  February  Fourteenth, 
at  One  o'clock. 


The  cards  of  the  bride  and  bridegroom  are  enclosed  with 
the  invitation  to  the  wedding;  the  invitation  to  the  reception 
or  breakfast  is  engraved  upon  a  separate  card,  and  enclosed  in 
the  same  envelope.  The  invitations  to  wedding  breakfasts  are 
sent  out  two  weeks  in  advance,  and  the  reply  must  be  as 
immediate  and  formal  as  for  a  dinner.  At  wedding  receptions, 
a  servant  should  be  at  the  door  of  the  drawing-room  to  announce 
the  names  of  callers,  whose  cards,  bearing  an  address,  must  be 
left  in  the  hall;  gentlemen  leave  their  hats  in  the  hall  when 
there  is  a  breakfast.  Invited  guests  must  either  attend  the 
reception,  or  send  cards  within  ten  days,  call  personally  within 
the  season  or  the  year,  and  if  possible  entertain  the  newly  wedded 
pair  within  three  months.  At  a  reception,  the  refreshments 
may  be  a  cake  and  one  wine,  but  no  tea  or  coffee  is  served 
even  at  a  full  breakfast.  The  wedding  breakfast  may  consist  of 
bouillon,  wine  at  choice,  salads,  small  game,  shell-fish,  ices,  creams 


The  Etiquette  of  Various  Entertainments.  155 

jellies ;  the  wedding  cake  is  set  before  the  bride,  who  cuts 
the  first  slice;  boxes  of  the  same  kind  of  cake  are  upon  the 
table  for  the  guests  to  take,  but  they  are  no  longer  sent  out. 
The  ladies  wear  their  bonnets  to  wedding  receptions  and  break- 
fasts, and  when  the  room  is  limited  the  breakfast  is  usually  a 
"  stand-up  "  affair. 

After  the  return  from  the  wedding  tour,  the  bride  and  groom 
are  given  dinners  at  the  houses  of  both  their  families  and  of  the 
bridesmaids.  They  need  not  entertain  in  return,  except  by 
set  reception  days ;  then  the  refreshments  may  be  tea  and  cake 
upon  trays  or  little  tables,  or  the  service  of  a  high  tea  or  a 
kettledrum. 

For  silver  and  golden  weddings,  the  entertainment  may  be 
simple  or  elaborate,  at  the  wish  of  the  hosts.  The  invitations 
are  "at  home"  cards,  with  date  and  "Silver  Wedding"  engraved 
upon  them,  or  they  may  be  in  script  on  note  paper.  Among 
the  collation  there  should  be  a  wedding  cake  containing  a  ring. 

When  introductions  take  place  at  any  entertainment,  the 
hostess  should  introduce  the  younger  to  the  elder,  and  the  least 
distinguished  person  to  the  celebrity,  first  being  sure  that  the 
introduction  is  desired  by  both  parties.  At  large  teas,  receptions 
and  garden  parties,  general  introductions  are  out  of  the  question; 
but  the  guests  are  at  liberty  to  converse  without  them  :  they  do 
not  necessarily  involve  themselves  in  future  intercourse  thereby, 
nor  do  they  by  watering-place  introductions  unless  they  are 
desired. 

Country  House  Parties. 

The  entertainment  of  guests  at  country  houses  demands  much 
more  hospitable  feeling  and  versatility  of  attainments  than  the 
courtesy  of  city  party  giving,  which  taxes  the  host  for  only  a 
few  hours.  To  the  pleased  guest  at  a  country  house,  the  agree- 
able visit  may  easily  lengthen  into  weeks  unless  a  limit  has  been 
set  in  the  invitation ;  but  what  seems  to  him  an  unbroken  round 


1 56  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified, 

of  natural  pleasures  may  have  severely  taxed  the  hospitable 
ingenuity  of  the  entertainer,  so  that  a  visit  should  never  be 
extended  unless  the  guest  has  every  assurance  that  it  is  desired. 
All  enjoyment  under  such  circumstances  depends  upon  the 
prevalence  of  harmony  of  taste  and  feeling  among  the  guests ; 
for,  despite  the  fact  that  many  outdoor  amusements  and  occupa- 
tions engross  them  during  the  day,  every  evening  reunites  them. 
If  their  selection  for  a  three-hour  dinner  requires  tact  and 
thought,  how  much  more  is  demanded  when  the  arrangement  is 
for  the  long  and  informal  association  which  country  life  implies! 

In  inviting  guests  to  a  country  house,  the  date  and  duration 
of  the  visit  should  be  defined;  and  when  the  invitation  is 
accepted,  the  hostess  should  at  once  advise  the  guest  of  the  most 
convenient  way  of  reaching  her  house,  giving  the  hours  for  trains 
if  the  expected  arrival  is  to  be  by  rail,  and  having  the  carriage 
at  the  depot  upon  the  arrival  of  the  train,  unless  the  party  of 
guests  coming  at  once  is  very  large ;  in  that  case  etiquette  does 
not  require  the  hostess  to  send  carriages  if  there  are  any  public 
conveyances,  although  it  is  a  graceful  courtesy  to  do  so.  It  is 
not  imperative  to  welcome  the  guests  at  the  station,  but  the 
hostess  should,  if  possible,  be  at  home  when  they  reach  the 
house ;  if  they  come  in  turn,  after  the  departure  of  others,  and 
if  she  is  absent  from  the  house  pending  the  entertainment  of 
resident  guests,  she  should  see  that  all  preparations  are  made  for 
the  comfort  of  the  latest  comers,  and  should  order  tea  to  be 
served  in  their  rooms  at  once.  It  is  allowable  for  guests  to 
refresh  themselves  and  rest  before  joining  the  company  below 
stairs,  but  only  illness  is  a  plea  for  the  absence  of  either  guests 
or  hostess  from  the  dinner  table.  Before  the  dinner  hour  the 
hostess  should  be  in  the  parlors  to  receive  the  guests,  and  intro- 
duce them  to  each  other ;  and  she  should  designate  companions 
in  specifying  the  order  of  entering  the  dining-room,  unless  the 
party  is  a  family  one,  when  all  formality  may  be  dispensed  with. 


The  Etiquette  of  Various  Entertainments.  157 

After  dinner,  the  evening's  amusement  should  be  so  planned 
by  her  as  to  throw  congenial  people  together,  and  to  allot  to 
each  one  that  share  of  the  general  entertainment  best  suited  to 
his  or  her  capacity  or  accomplishments ;  for  in  such  assemblies 
the  pleasure  of  all  often  depends  upon  the  talents  of  individuals. 
Books,  musical  instruments,  games  and  various  devices  for  social 
amusement  are  plentiful  and  varied,  so  that  no  hostess  need  be 
at  a  loss  for  aids  to  her  hospitality.  When  bedtime  arrives,  the 
hostess  should  give  the  signal  for  retiring.  In  the  morning  she 
should  preside  at  the  breakfast  table  for  about  an  hour,  after 
which  she  may  leave  the  late  comers  to  the  care  of  the  servants, 
and  devote  herself  to  the  pleasure  of  the  guests  who  first  join 
her,  until  personal  or  household  matters  demand  her  attention. 
Unless  the  house  party  is  large,  all  the  guests  should  endeavor 
to  be  at  the  breakfast  table  with  some  degree  of  punctuality; 
but  the  breakfast  should  begin  at  its  stated  hour.  Letters  and 
papers  may  be  glanced  at  during  the  meal  if  the  party  is  large 
enough  to  be  redeemed  from  stupidity  by  such  proceeding,  but 
it  shows  a  lack  of  courtesy  to  center  one's  entire  attention  upon 
a  book  during  any  repast  when  others  are  present  at  the  table. 

After  luncheon  the  hostess  must  devote  herself  to  her  guests 
until  it  is  time  to  dress  for  dinner;  that  is,  she  must  devise  some 
scheme  of  pleasure  in  which  all  can  join,  or  see  that  individuals 
have  some  pleasant  occupation  offered.  But  in  no  case  need 
she  burden  herself  with  undue  care,  after  once  having  made  sure 
that  she  has  placed  enjoyment  within  the  reach  of  her  guests, 
she  may  leave  them  to  avail  themselves  of  it,  or  to  rest,  as  best 
contents  them.  On  Sunday  the  hostess  should  accompany 
guests  to  church,  when  they  desire  to  attend  divine  service, 
preceding  them  up  the  aisle,  and  standing  by  the  pew  door  until 
they  are  seated.  When  the  guests  are  ready  to  terminate  their 
visit,  the  hostess  should  be  in  the  parlor  in  ample  time  for  them 
to  make  their  farewell  and  reach  their  train  without  haste. 


LAYING  AND  SERVING  THE  TABLE. 

The  relative  convenience  of  different  shaped  tables  has  been 
referred  to.  Decidedly,  the  square  and  round  tables  are  the 
most  desirable;  because,  placed  in  a  circle  or  nearly  facing  the 
host,  no  guest  is  given  precedence  except  those  who  occupy 
the  seats  of  honor  at  the  right  hand  of  the  host  and  hostess 
respectively.  If  the  shape  of  the  room  will  not  admit  of  the  use 
of  a  round  or  square  table,  a  good  effect  may  be  produced  by 
placing  the  host  and  hostess  at  opposite  sides  of  the  long  exten- 
sion table,  facing  each  other ;  this  position  draws  the  entire 
company  relatively  nearer  their  entertainers  and  those  in 
whose  honor  the  feast  is  given,  and  so  increases  both  interest 
and  enjoyment. 

It  has  become  the  custom,  in  laying  a  table,  to  avoid  uni- 
formity of  decoration  in  all  matters  except  the  massing  of  a  few 
choice  varieties  of  flowers — unless  a  "  pink  dinner,"  or  some 
such  entertainment,  is  being  given,  when  the  purpose  is  to 
emphasize  some  special  color;  then  the  china,  glass,  flowers, 
lamp  or  candle  shades,  and  even  the  ladies'  costumes,  take  on 
the  prevailing  tone  of  color.  Details  of  these  effects  are  given 
elsewhere  in  the  book.  Of  course  the  laying  of  all  the  covers 
must  be  uniform ;  and  it  is  agreed  that  the  service  of  a  dinner  i? 
facilitated,  and  the  general  effect  heightened,  when  more  than 
one  set  of  silver  and  cutlery  is  laid  at  first.  There  are.  so  many 
dainty  forms  of  such  table  service,  that  a  well-laid  cover  becomes 
a  beautiful  picture,  especially  when  the  table  is  large  enough  to 
admit  of  the  proper  placing  of  the  various  aids  to  the  guests' 
comfort  and  convenience.  Whatever  form  of  service  is  chosen 
for  the  dinner,  the  articles  used  in  good  houses,  in  laying  each 
cover,  consist  of  the  napkin,  a  dinner  roll  or  a  thick,  small  cut  of 


Laying  and  Serving  the   Table.  159 

fresh  bread,  the  necessary  cutlery  and  silver,  the  water  tumbler 
and  glasses  for  the  different  wines  when  wine  is  served,  and,  at 
convenient  intervals,  receptacles  for  the  condiments,  and  iced 
water  or  ice.  Individual  salt  cellars  are  in  vogue,  but  several 
larger  silver  or  cut-glass  ones  may  be  placed  upon  the  table,  as 
well  as  some  unique  and  pretty  pepper  casters  of  metal  or 
china.  The  salad  oil  and  vinegar  are  in  double  cruet  stands 
upon  the  table,  or  on  the  sideboard  ready  to  be  placed  upon 
the  table  when  the  salad  is  served.  The  table  sauces  are  put 
on  the  sideboard  until  required,  being  left  in  their  original 
bottles.  The  large  table  caster  is  a  thing  of  the  past,  and  is 
banished  even  from  the  sideboard  unless  it  is  really  an  ornamental 
piece.  Individual  water  bottles,  with  tumblers  to  cover  them, 
are  much  favored,  because  of  their  convenience  to  this  water- 
drinking  nation.  Dishes  of  broken  ice  are  permissible  at  small 
dinners.  The  water  bottles  may  be  filled  with  ice  and  frozen 
without  much  trouble,  according  to  directions  given  later  on. 
Some  caterers  make  a  specialty  of  supplying  these  frozen  carafes. 
The  number  of  wine  glasses  is,  of  course,  regulated  by  the 
variety  of  wines  to  be  served;  this  point  will  be  amplified  later. 

Extra  knives,  forks  and  spoons  are  upon  the  sideboard,  ready 
to  be  placed  by  the  attendants,  between  the  courses;  the  oyster 
fork  is  upon  the  plate  with  the  shell-fish,  or  is  laid  when  they  are 
served.  When  butter  is  served,  as  it  often  is  in  this  country,  a 
small  plate  and  a  special  knife  are  placed  for  it.  A  nice  idea 
for  family  dinners,  or  luncheons,  is  to  use  a  small  plate,  about 
the  size  of  a  saucer,  upon  which  the  butter  can  be  placed, 
together  with  the  bread  and  the  salt  when  large  salt  cellars  are 
used.  The  teaspoons  are  upon  the  sideboard,  to  be  placed  upon 
the  table  when  required.  Small  spoons  are  needed  when  coffee 
is  served  in  little  cups  used  after  dinner  for  black  coffee,  or  cafe 
noir.  •  When  there  is  not  an  abundance  of  silver,  there  should 
be,  in  a  room  adjoining  the  dining-room,  all  the  conveniences 


160  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

for  quickly  washing  and  drying  it,  i.e.,  hot  water,  soap  and  soft 
towels;  a  small  piece  of  washing  soda  dissolved  in  the  hot  water 
will  thoroughly  cleanse  the  silver  from  any  odor  or  taste  of  food. 

Uniform  color  has  been  indicated  for  the  general  table  equip- 
age ;  but  if  the  table  is  large  enough  to  admit  of  more  than  one 
group  of  flowers  or  colored  china,  they  should  differ  far  enough 
to  produce  a  contrast;  and  a  change,  however  slight,  should  be 
made  at  every  repast.  At  all  seasons,  flowers  make  a  charming 
variation  in  the  appearance  of  even  the  most  simply  laid  table; 
and  variety  at  the  table  is  a  great  charm,  quite  as  necessary  to 
the  enjoyment  of  the  repast  as  is  a  good  choice  of  dishes. 
Especially  in  the  spring  and  early  summer,  the  appetite  is  so 
capricious  that  it  can  be  affected  by  such  trifles  of  service  as 
light  and  color.  The  perfect  hostess  will  not  despise  even  trifles, 
where  the  enjoyment  of  her  guests  is  concerned. 

The  lighting  of  a  dinner  table  is  of  importance.  The  pleas- 
antest  light  falls  from  candles  or  lamps,  which  should  be  so  placed 
as  not  to  incommodate  the  diners.  Lamps  are  sometimes  sus- 
pended over  the  table,  as  are  gas  fixtures.  Side  lights  are  apt  to 
cross  the  light  so  that  it  is  unpleasant;  if  they  are  used,  they 
should  be  shaded.  When  it  is  desirable  to  give  a  prevailing  tone 
of  color,  the  lights  and  their  globes  or  shades  will  be  found  most 
effective  auxiliaries. 

The  table  cloth  for  all  dinners  should  be  white,  and  without 
perceptible  folds  or  creases.  It  is  not  always  easy  to  accomplish 
this  triumph  of  laundry  work  in  small  establishments;  but  it  is 
possible  if  the  cloth  is  carefully  ironed,  and  rolled  at  once  upon 
a  long,  round  piece  of  wood  like  a  curtain  roller.  As  has  been 
already  said,  the  pretty  fashion  prevails  of  laying  a  strip  of 
bright- colored  plush  or  satin  down  the  middle  of  the  table,  with 
a  vine  or  smilax  or  ivy  along  the  edges ;  as  variation,  a  strip  of 
wide,  very  open  lace,  of  a  definite  pattern,  laid  over  a  piece  of 
satin,  silk  or  cambric,  is  sometimes  employed.  In  arranging  the 


Laying  and  Serving  the   Table.  161 

table  decorations  upon  and  near  this  bit  of  color,  due  regard  to 
harmony  must  be  observed.  The  table  napkins  should  match 
the  pattern  of  the  cloth,  and  be  large  and  square  ;  they  should  be 
folded,  and  so  placed  that  the  guest  will  not  be  exposed  to  any 
awkwardness  in  using  them ;  for  instance,  if  a  roll  or  piece  of 
bread  is  hidden  in  one,  it  may  be  thrown  upon  the  floor  by  a 
careless  movement ;  the  dinner  bread  is  best  placed  at  the  front 
or  side  of  the  plate,  laid  upon  the  napkin,  but  not  concealed  by  it. 
After  the  ornamental  center  of  the  table  has  been  planned 
(care  being  taken  that  it  shall  not  be  high  enough  to  obstruct  the 
view  of  the  entire  table),  and  the  various  dishes  placed  for  condi- 
ments, relishes  and  such  small  dishes  as  the  chosen  service  per- 
mits— the  flowers  being  kept  fresh  until  just  before  the  dinner  is 
served — each  guest's  place  or  cover  is  laid  as  follows.  Upon  the 
left,  a  soup  spoon  and  two  silver  forks,  one  large ;  in  the  center, 
the  dinner  plate,  upon  which  the  plate  of  oysters  or  clams  is  to 
be  set  just  before  serving  the  dinner,  or,  if  there  is  to  be  no  shell- 
fish, the  napkins  may  be  put  here  with  the  dinner  bread ;  when 
the  shell-fish  is  served,  the  bread  and  napkin  may  be  laid  just 
above  the  spoon  and  forks,  together  with  the  salt  cellar  and 
water  tumbler,  or  the  small  carafe  with  the  tumbler  reversed 
upon  it ;  at  the  right  of  the  cover,  a  steel  knife  with  a  pearl  or 
ivory  handle  for  meats,  and  a  silver  dinner  knife  of  medium  size  ; 
sometimes  a  smaller  knife  with  a  silver  blade  and  some  fanciful 
handle  is  placed  to  be  used  for  cheese,  salad  or  butter  when  it  is 
served,  as  it  generally  is  upon  American  tables.  The  disuse  of 
butter  at  dinner  is  to  be  traced  to  those  countries  where  it  is  less 
plentiful  than  in  America,  and  it  is  such  a  useful  article  of  food  that 
it  is  to  be  hoped  the  fashion  in  question  will  not  generally  prevail. 
When  wine  is  served,  the  glasses  may  be  symmetrically  arranged 
at  the  upper  right  of  the  cover.  When  all  the  dinner  wines  are 
used,  it  is  well  to  have  some  of  the  more  fragile  glasses  remain 
upon  the  sideboard  until  they  are  needed,  placing  at  first  upon 


1 62  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

the  table  a  hock  glass  for  the  white  wine,  a  small  wine  glass  for 
sherry,  and  claret  and  champagne  glasses,  in  addition  to  a  goblet 
for  iced  water.  The  glasses  should  be  about  four  inches  from  the 
edge  of  the  table.  The  glasses  for  port,  madeira,  burgundy, 
and  the  liqueurs  should  be  upon  the  sideboard,  together  with 
extra  glasses  of  all  kinds  to  replace  any  accidentally  overturned 
or  broken. 

Also,  upon  the  sideboard  or  table  there  should  be  plenty  of 
fresh  napkins,  plates  and  silver,  the  finger  bcm*ds  and  dishes  which 
are  to  be  used  during  the  dessert,  the  cups  ^ind  saucers  for  cof- 
fee, sugar,  cigars  or  cigarettes  when  there  are  gentlemen  present, 
and  the  wines  and  liqueiirs  which  are  not  iced. 

Before  placing  the  dessert,  crumbs  can  be  best  removed  by  using 
a  large  silver  knife  ;  it  is  better  than  a  brush,  which  only  scatters 
the  crumbs  about  the  cloth  and  over  the  floor.  In  some  houses, 
the  old  custom  still  prevails  of  removing  the  cloth  before  the  des- 
sert is  served,  so  as  to  place  it  upon  the  polished  mahogany  table; 
this  implies  ample  attendance.  The  table  must  be  bright  enough 
to  reflect  every  glint  of  light  which  falls  on  it;  then,  in  the  re- 
moval of  the  cloth,  it  must  be  rolled  or  folded  from  one  end  of 
the  table  to  the  other  by  a  servant  on  either  side  of  the  table,  and 
others  must  be  near  to  assist  them  by  raising  and  replacing  the 
table  ornaments,  otherwise  the  process  is  awkward  and  tedious. 
At  best,  it  involves  much  reaching  over  the  shoulders  of  the 
guests,  unless  they  are  seated  far  apart. 

After  the  crumbs  have  been  removed,  or  the  cloth  changed, 
the  finger  bowls  are  put  upon  the  table,  and  the  dessert  is  served. 
A  small  colored  or  embroidered  napkin  is  laid  upon  a  dessert 
plate,  usually  of  decorated  china,  and  the  glass  bowl  is  set  upon 
the  napkin.  Sometimes  a  small  glass  containing  a  little  per- 
fumed water  is  set  in  the  bowl ;  at  the  end  of  the  dinner  this 
glass  is  raised  to  the  lips  to  refresh  them,  and  the  fingers  are 
dipped  into  the  bowl.  The  dinner  napkin  is  used  for  drying  the 


Laying  and  Serving  the   Table.  163 

hands,  and  is  then  laid  without  folding  at  the  side  of  the  plate. 
Unless  at  very  informal  family  dinners,  fresh  napkins  are  always 
laid.  The  embroidered  napkins  under  the  bowls  are  to  be 
placed  under  them  on  the  table  cloth,  when  the  plate  is  required 
for  dessert.  If  the  dessert  napkins  are  colored  and  of  wash 
material,  they  are  to  be  used  if  fruit  is  served ;  otherwise  the  din- 
ner napkins  remain  in  use.  Upon  the  plate,  by  the  side  of  the 
finger  bowl,  the  dessert  silver  is  laid,  a  fruit  knife  and  teaspoon, 
and  a  silver  fork  if  the  dessert  includes  any  juicy  large  fruit  such 
as  pears  or  pineapple.  The  guest  lays  this  silver  upon  the  table, 
and  places  the  bowl  with  the  doily  under  it,  within  easy  reach. 
If  there  is  a  fruit  napkin,  it  is  laid  ready  for  use ;  and,  unless  a 
fresh  white  napkin  is  served,  the  dinner  napkin  remains  upon 
the  knees  until  the  end  of  the  dinner ;  when  the  white  dessert 
napkin  is  laid  the  dinner  napkin  is  to  be  taken  away  before  the 
service  of  the  dessert. 

When  the  frozen  carafes  or  water  bottles  are  to  be  prepared 
at  home,  the  following  method  will  be  found  easy  and  satisfactory  : 
Unless  small  carafes  for  individual  use  are  desired,  the  ordinary 
glass  ones  will  answer :  the  use  of  cut  or  pressed  glass  bottles  is 
attended  with  the  danger  of  breaking  during  the  freezing. 
Smooth  carafes  are  best,  holding  about  a  quart:  they  are  filled 
with  fresh  water  to  the  bottom  of  the  neck,  and  set  in  a  wooden 
tub  containing  enough  freezing  mixture  to  reach  two-thirds  up 
the  sides.  The  freezing  mixture  is  composed  of  three  parts  of 
pounded  ice  to  one  of  salt.  The  carafes  are  covered  first  with  a 
clean  cloth  and  then  with  a  heavy  blanket,  and  allowed  to  re- 
main undisturbed  until  the  water  is  frozen.  If  they  are  left  over 
night,  as  they  sometimes  are  in  summer,  sufficient  drainage  must 
be  insured  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  the  melted  freezing  mixture 
to  the  carafes. 


FLOWERS  AND  BILLS  OF  FARE. 

Flowers  at  Table. 

Flowers  will  probably  always  hold  favor  as  table  decorations, 
because  of  their  beauty  and  freshness;  but  the  use  of  large  and 
elaborate  flower  stands,  or  high  ornamental  figures  of  sweetmeats 
and  confectionery,  epergnes  or  plate,  should  be  deprecated. 
They  obstruct  the  intercourse  of  the  guests,  which  to  be  enjoy- 
able must  be  unconstrained.  In  summer,  a  very  effective  center 
piece  for  the  table  may  be  formed  by  wreathing  a  block  of  ice 
with  smilax,  ivy  or  ferns ;  of  course  care  must  be  taken  to  insure 
perfect  drainage,  or  a  sufficiently  large  receptacle  to  hold  the 
water  must  be  placed  under  the  ice,  otherwise  the  table  cloth  will 
be  soiled.  The  size  and  shape  of  the  table  will  decide  the  degree 
of  ornamentation  admissible. 

A  round  table  might  be  arranged  somewhat  after  the  follow- 
ing fashion,  using  only  flowers  for  decoration — in  the  service 
a  la  Russe  the  small  dessert  dishes  and  the  relishes  would  be 
interspersed :  A  fine  cloth  being  laid,  the  center  of  the  table 
would  be  filled  with  either  a  block  of  ice  wreathed  in  vines  or 
leaves,  or  a  stand  of  dwarf  foliage  plants,  or  a  circular  bed  of 
flowers  of  some  pronounced  color,  usually  of  one  variety ;  next, 
in  the  outer  circle,  contrasting  flowers,  or  small  dessert  dishes  and 
relishes  harmoniously  arranged  so  far  as  color  and  form  are  con- 
cerned ;  and,  at  the  edge  of  the  table,  the  service  of  covers.  In 
this  plan  no  calculation  is  made  for  placing  on  the  table  the  dif- 
ferent dishes  composing  the  dinner ;  when  the  service  involves 
this,  space  should  be  left  for  the  dishes,  large  enough  to  allow  a 
margin  of  the  cloth  to  show  between  the  center  decoration  and 
the  dishes  served. 


Flowers  and  Bills  of  Fare.  165 

When  flowers  are  not  in  season,  a  center  may  be  made  of  a 
china  figure  supporting  an  open  dish  for  fruits  ;  other  fruits  and 
nuts  may  be  dispersed  in  low  dishes  around  the  center  piece,  and 
beyond  them  the  small  relishes,  varied  with  a  few  flowers  or  even 
leaves. 

For  a  long  table,  when  flowers  are  not  abundant,  the  strip  of 
colored  plush  or  satin  is  very  effective ;  it  should  be  bordered 
with  ivy,  moss,  or  any  trailing  vine  ;  smilax,  blackberry  vines, 
woodbine  and  honeysuckle  are  admirable  for  this  purpose. 
When  only  moss  or  leaves  are  used,  a  few  bright  flowers  or  ber- 
ries, placed  at  intervals,  heighten  the  brilliancy  of  the  effect 
One  of  the  loveliest  of  long  table  decorations  is  a  profusely  flow- 
ering vine  of  honeysuckle,  laid  the  entire  length  of  the  table. 
Another  beautiful  center  is  an  oval  mass  of  fruit  and  leaves, 
placed  low  upon  the  table,  the  middle  of  the  mound  being 
slightly  elevated. 

An  exquisite  summer  center  piece  is  a  block  of  ice,  wreathed 
in  ferns,  with  an  outer  circle  of  water  lilies  and  their  leaves  and 
curling  stems.  But  flowers  of  pronounced  odors  are  sometimes 
objectionable.  Low  dishes  filled  with  violets  and  pansies  are 
most  beautiful  when  arranged  on  a  white  cloth.  A  low  epergne 
or  a  china  figure  supporting  a  basket,  either  to  be  filled  with 
fruit  and  set  in  a  broad  circle  of  pansies,  is  very  beautiful ;  flat 
dishes  containing  the  sweets  may  be  sunk  among  the  flowers. 
Nasturtium  vines,  with  the  leaves  and  flowers,  are  bright  and  ef- 
fective. Of  course  the  queen  of  all  table  flowers  is  the  rose,  and 
the  variety  is  innumerable.  In  flower  decoration,  there  should  be 
one  predominating  color. 

In  summer  each  gentleman  is  supplied  with  a  boutonniere, 
and  each  lady  with  a  corsage  bouquet.  The  bouquets  are  tied 
with  ribbons  of  contrasting  colors,  and  a  large  pin  is  stuck  into 
the  cloth  for  the  purpose  of  fastening  the  flowers  to  the  dress. 

At  elaborate  entertainments,  when  it  is  desired  to  present  the 


1 66  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

ladies  with  some  souvenir,  bouquet  clasp  pins  may  be  substituted 
for  the  ordinary  large  pin,  or  the  large  pin  may  be  made  of  gold 
or  silver.  Very  pretty  silver  pins  can  be  bought  for  from  fifty 
cents  to  one  dollar,  and  more  fanciful  ones  and  bouquet  pins  for 
from  one  dollar  upward,  according  to  their  style  of  orna- 
mentation. 

Menus,  or  Bills  of  Fare. 

In  the  choice  of  menu  cards  much  taste  may  be  displayed. 
Extreme  ornamentation  should  be  avoided,  and  the  names  of  the 
dishes  written  legibly  with  ink,  either  in  the  center  of  the  orna- 
mentation when  space  is  left  there,  or  upon  the  plain  side  of  the 
card.  When  small  cards  are  used,  one  should  be  laid  at  each 
plate :  this  is  desirable  when  the  number  of  guests  is  large,  for 
then  on  the  reverse  of  the  card  can  be  written  the  name  of  the 
guest  who  is  to  occupy  the  seat.  When  large  menu  cards  are 
used,  one  answers  for  four  or  five  guests.  The  large  cards  are 
more  elaborate,  and  are  often  framed  flat,  or  set  on  low  orna- 
mental easels.  The  names  of  the  different  wines  are  to  be 
placed  opposite  the  dishes  with  which  they  are  to  be  served. 
The  cook  and  head  waiter  should  both  have  a  copy  of  the  bill  of 
fare,  so  that  they  may  know  when  to  serve  the  various  dishes 
composing  the  dinner. 

The  ability  to  compose  a  bill  of  fare  judiciously  implies  taste 
and  discrimination.  The  fact  should  always  be  remembered  that 
a  heavy  soup  will  so  far  cloy  the  appetite  as  to  render  one  indif- 
ferent to  the  rest  of  the  dinner,  while  a  clear  soup  refreshes  and 
prepares  one  for  the  enjoyment  of  the  succeeding  solids.  The 
fish  and  entrees  should  not  be  substantial  enough  to  satisfy  hunger 
entirely;  the  relishes  will  then  stimulate  the  appetite  for  the 
heavier  dishes.  The  service  of  Roman  punch  before  the  roast  re- 
freshes the  palate,  and  prepares  for  more  perfect  enjoyment  of  the 
succeeding  dishes :  it  is  as  necessary  to  the  service  of  a  good 


Flowers  and  Bills  of  Fare,  167 

dinner  as  cheese  is  with  the  plain  salad.  When  olives  are  on  the 
table,  they  go  well  with  entrees  of  game ;  French  chestnuts  are 
excellent  with  poultry ;  and  almonds  blanched  and  roasted,  with 
salt,  are  enjoyable  with  madeira  or  sherry  before  the  sweet  en- 
tremets. Only  a  plain  vegetable  salad  should  accompany  the 
roast  or  game,  and  a  bit  of  any  old  cheese  may  be  passed  with 
the  salad.  Cheese  straws  or  cheese  crusts  may  be  served  with 
the  salad.  Although  the  cheese  belongs  with  the  salad,  it  enters 
into  some  delicate  dishes,  such  as  fondus  and  souffles,  which  may 
come  to  the  table  either  after  the  oysters  or  soup,  as  relishes,  or 
before  the  large  sweets  at  dessert,  previous  to  the  service  of  the 
nuts  and  fruit.  Then  comes  the  dessert,  placed  as  already  indi- 
cated. If  the  dinner  is  small,  it  is  perfectly  permissible  for  the 
hostess  to  make  the  coffee  at  the  table,  or  it  may  be  served  in  the 
drawing-room  later. 

Even  with  the  best  chosen  menu,  the  success  of  a  dinner  de- 
pends on  the  skill  of  the  cook.  A  good  cook  appreciates  the 
value  of  sauces,  and  will  give  much  care  to  their  preparation,  and, 
above  all,  will  endeavor  to  preserve  the  natural  flavors  of  the  dif- 
ferent dishes.  All  mingling  of  flavors  is  objectional,  except  in 
sauces  and  salads. 

The  details  of  the  bill  of  fare  are  as  follows  : 

The  shell-fish  (huitres)  includes  small  raw  oysters  and  Little 
Neck  or  hard-shell  clams,  on  the  half-shell ;  at  the  same  time, 
brown  bread  cut  very  thin  and  buttered,  and  cut  lemons,  salt, 
cayenne  and  sharp  table  sauces  are  placed  upon  the  table. 

The  soup  (potage)  is  varied  according  to  the  character  of  the 
dinner.  If  it  is  choice,  no  matter  how  small  it  is,  there  are 
always  two  soups ;  one  a  perfectly  clear  soup,  or  consomme,  and 
the  other  a  rich  thick  one,  such  as  a  bisque  or  cream.  A  thick 
cut  of  bread,  or  a  roll  with  crisp  crust,  is  placed  upon  the  napkin 
when  the  cover  is  laid,  to  be  used  after  the  shell-fish. 

The  fish  (poisson)  may  be    of  any  large    kind,  boiled  and 


1 68  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

served  with  a  good  sauce  and  plain  boiled  potatoes.  If  the  din- 
ner is  large  or  elaborate,  there  should  be  two  kinds  of  fish,  one 
boiled,  and  the  other  baked  and  served  with  a  garnish,  or  small 
fish  with  a  sauce  and  garnish,  and  some  special  dish  of  potatoes, 
such  as  Parisienne  or  Hollandaise.  If  shell-fish  is  used  here,  the 
dish  should  be  large  and  hot. 

The  relishes  (hors  d'ceuvres),  which  are  placed  upon  the  table 
in  the  American  dinner  and  the  service  a  la  Russe,  include  all 
kinds  of  table  sauces  and  catsups,  salted  almonds,  pickles,  olives, 
caviare,  vinaigrettes,  small  cold  entrees  such  as  bouchees  and 
pate  de  foie-gras,  pickled  fish  and  small  tongues,  and  individual 
scallops. 

The  removes  (or  releves)  consist  of  boiled,  baked,  and  braised 
meats,  poultry  and  a  large  game,  large  veal,  ham,  game  and 
fish  pies,  and  large  cold  joints,  such  as  tongue  and  ham,  generally 
served  with  a  garnish  of  vegetables  ;  the  remove  at  a  small  dinner 
may  consist  of  an  elaborately  dressed  cold  fish,  if  the  regular  fish 
service  be  omitted. 

The  side  dishes  (entrees}  are  the  small  hot  meats  garnished, 
such  as  cutlets,  chops  breaded  or  larded,  steaks  with  sauces 
garnished,  small  meats  and  poultry  larded,  sweet  breads  garnished, 
fricandeaux,  fricasees,  ragouts,  escalopes,  all  hot ;  hot  raised  pies, 
pdtes,  and  rissoles,  combination  salads  or  vegetables,  salads  with 
mayonnaise,  such  as  chicken  and  lobster ;  in  brief,  any  dish  in 
size  less  than  a  joint  or  a  roast. 

Roman  punch  (sorbet).  There  are  many  delicious  ices  served 
under  the  general  name  of  Roman  punch,  all  having  a  combina- 
tion of  frozen  fruit-sherbet  and  some  fine  liqueur,  cordial,  wine 
or  spirit;  served  in  the  midst  of  the  dinner,  when  the  palate 
needs  the  sense  of  refreshment  they  give,  they  prepare  it  for  re- 
newed enjoyment,  and  render  it  capable  of  appreciating  the  in- 
tense flavor  of  the  roast  and  the  bouquet  of  the  burgundy  or 
champagne  that  follow  them. 


Flowers  and  Bills  of  Fare.  169 

The  roast  (roti).  For  family  dinners,  the  roast  maybe  a  joint 
of  any  meat  preferred  ;  but  for  special  occasions  it  should  be  of 
venison,  larded  hare,  or  some  large  game  bird.  If  wild  duck  is 
served,  there  should  be  more  than  one,  because  only  the  breast 
is  carved ;  when  canvas-backs  are  used,  half  a  breast  cut  in  one 
piece  is  served  to  each  guest.  Smaller  birds,  either  roasted  or 
broiled,  may  be  served  in  this  course.  All  game  should  be 
underdone.  A  garnish  of  watercress  or  celery  is  used  with  birds, 
and  always  currant  jelly  and  special  sauces  with  venison  and  hare. 

Salad  (salade).  A  green  salad  is  the  proper  accompaniment 
of  the  roast ;  it  may  be  of  watercress,  lettuce,  celery,  chicory, 
escarole,  burnet,  nasturtium  (leaves,  fruit,  and  flowers),  corn  salad, 
dandelion,  tarragon,  fennel,  mint,  young  onions  and  any  of  the 
green  sweet  herbs ;  the  five  first-named  varieties  are  the  most 
generally  used.  Sometimes  tomatoes  and  cucumbers  are  served 
here ;  but  they  more  properly  belong,  the  cucumbers  with  the 
fish,  and  the  tomatoes  with  a  mayonnaise  among  the  entrees.  The 
best  dressing  for  a  green  salad  is  of  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper : 
a  salad  with  mayonnaise  belongs  among  the  entrees,  as  do  the 
salads  of  cold  cooked  vegetables.  A  little  old,  rich  cheese  may 
be  served  with  the  green  salad  if  desired. 

Second  course  side  dishes  (entremets).  After  the  roast  and 
its  accompanying  green  salad,  it  is  customary  to  serve  hot 
vegetables  dressed  with  sauces,  hot  meat,  fish  or  game  pies, 
croquettes  and  fritters  with  sauces,  eggs  in  elaborate  form  with 
sauces,  large  cold  side  dishes ;  and  the  second  course  sweets, 
such  as  croquettes,  charlottes,  croquantes,  timbales,  cold  puddings 
in  moulds,  hot  puddings  with  sauces,  pastries,  moulded  jellies  and 
creams,  meringues,  souffles  and  macedoines. 

Dessert  (dessert}.  The  dessert  consists  ot  the  small  cold 
sweets,  such  as  eclairs,  fancy  cakes,  nougats,  confectionery, 
candied  fruits,  nuts,  individual  moulded  jellies,  ices  and  creams, 
glaces  and  cafe  noir.  When  it  is  divided  in  two  parts,  the  dishes 


170  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

called  glaces  are  served  first;  these  include  every  sweet  which 
can  be  crystallized,  frozen  or  iced ;  after  them  comes  the  dessert 
proper,  composed  of  candied  and  dry  preserved  fruits,  nuts, 
bonbons  and  little  fancy  cakes,  or  petit- fours,  and  the  cheese  and 
coffee. 

The  English  Dinner  Service. 

In  scrying  a  dinner  according  to  the  approved  English 
method,  the  table  must  first  be  laid  with  a  cotton- flannel  or 
baize  cloth,  so  that  the  heat  of  the  dishes  cannot  affect  its 
polished  mahogany  surface ;  even  when  an  ordinary  wood  table 
is  used,  this  cloth  gives  a  good  body  to  those  laid  over  it;  the 
dessert  cloth  of  delicately  tinted  damask  is  next  spread;  and 
above  that,  one  or  more  white  cloths,  according  to  the  number 
of  courses  which  are  to  be  served,  the  cloth  being  removed  after 
each  course  is  served.  The  covers  are  then  laid  for  the  first 
course,  including  the  necessary  wine  glasses  for  the  wines  to  be 
served  during  the  course;  the  relishes  and  condiments  for  the 
course  are  placed,  and  the  flower  decorations,  which  are  gener- 
ally massive.  Several  dishes  placed  upon  the  table  at  once 
constitute  a  course;  the  largest  before  the  host  and  hostess,  to 
be  carved  by  them,  and  put  upon  plates  passed  from  their  left 
to  the  left  hand  of  the  guests  by  the  waiters.  When  there  is  a 
large  staff  of  servants,  the  butler,  who  is  in  charge  of  them, 
makes  the  first  service,  and  then  relegates  it  to  his  assistants 
and  attends  to  the  wines.  The  soups,  salads  and  large  sweets 
are  set  before  the  hostess;  the  large  dishes  of  fish,  meat  and 
game,  which  require  carving,  are  placed  before  the  host;  the 
relishes,  vegetables  and  small  sweets  are  set  upon  the  table,  each 
with  its  appropriate  course,  and  passed  by  the  servants  after  the 
large  dishes  are  served.  When  two  large  dishes  are  served  in 
the  same  course,  the  least  difficult  is  set  before  the  hostess.  The 
chief  disadvantage  of  this  form  of  service  is  that  one  of  the  large 


Flowers  and  Bills  of  Fare. 


171 


dishes  is  apt  to  become  cold  before  it  is  served  to  the  guests ; 
and,  besides,  it  requires  that  both  host  and  hostess  should  be 
expert  carvers.  As  each  course  is  finished,  the  servants  entirely 
clear  the  table,  remove  the  cloth,  and  then  arrange  the  table 
afresh  for  the  next  course,  as  already  described  in  the  chapter  on 
Laying  and  Serving  the  Table.  Sometimes  in  a  dinner  of  only 
two  courses,  the  same  white  cloth  serves  until  dessert,  and  then 
all  the  cloths  are  removed,  and  the  dessert  proper,  of  fruit,  nuts 
and  wine,  is  placed  upon  the  polished  mahogany. 

An  English  dinner  of  three  courses  would  be  divided  some- 
what after  the  following  method  : 


FIRST  COURSE. 

Native  Oysters  on  Half-shell. 

Brown  Bread  and  Butter. 
Thick  Turtle  Soup.     Green  Turtle  Clear  Soup. 

Turbot  with  Lobster  Sauce. 
Boiled  Salmon,  Anchovy  Sauce. 
Cucumbers.     Boiled  Potatoes. 
Lobster  Cutlets.     Moor  Game  Pie. 
Filets  of  Wild  Duck,  Seville  Orange  Sauce. 
Vol-au-  Vent  of  Sweetbreads  and  Mushrooms. 


PUNCH  and 
MADEIRA. 

SHERRY. 

HOCK 

and 

BORDEAUX. 


BURGUNDY. 


CHAMPAGNE. 


OLD  PORT. 


SECOND  COURSE. 

Boiled  Turkey,  Celery  Sauce. 

Saddle  of  Mutton,  Currant  Jelly.     Boiled  Sea  Kale. 
Jerusalem  Artichokes  with  White  Sauce. 
Roast  Ptarmigan  and  Pheasants. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Asparagus  with  Hollandaise  Sauce. 
Nesselrode  and  Iced  Puddings. 


THIRD  COURSE. 

DESSERT  SHERRY.      Fruit  Tarts.     Noyeau  Jelly.     Chartreuse  of  Orange. 
Ice  Cream.     Fruit.     Nuts.     Cheese.     Coffee. 


Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified, 


FRENCH  FORM. 
Huitres. 
Potage. 
Poisson. 

Hors-d'  CEuvres. 
Relents. 
Entries. 

Ponche  &  la  Romaine, 
Rdtis. 
Salade, 

Entremets, 
Dessert, 

CaftNoir. 


THE    DINNER    SERVICE. 

AS  SHOWN  ON  MENU  CARDS. 

ENGLISH  AND  AMERICAN  FORM. 

Small  Shell-Fish,  uncooked. 

Soup. 

Fish  and  Large  Shell-Fish,  Turtle  and  Terrapin. 

Small  Side  Dishes  and  Relishes,  cold. 

Removes  of  Boiled  and  Braised  Meats,  etc. 

Large  Side  Dishes,  hot  and  cold. 

Frozen  Punch. 

Meats,  Game  and  Poultry,  roasted  and  broiled. 

Green  Salads. 
(  Dressed  Vegetables. 
C  Sweet  Dishes,  hot  and  cold. 

Ices,  Jellies,  Ice  Creams,  etc.     Candied   Fruits, 
Nuts,  Cordials. 

Black  Coffee,  Liqueurs, 


ENGLISH    BILL    OF    FARE. 

FOR  DINNER  A  LA  RUSSE. 
Blue  Point  Oysters  with  Lemon. 

SOUPS. 

Bisque  of  Prawns.     Clear  Soup  with  royale  paste. 

FISH. 

Kennebec  Salmon  with  Hollandaise  Sauce. 

Mountain  Brook  Trout. 
Bermuda  Potatoes.     Potato  Croquettes, 

RELISHES. 

Olives.     Caviare  Toast.     Forcemeat  Balls.     Radishes. 
Celery.     Salted  Almonds.     Small  Pickles. 


Flowers  and  Bills  of  Fare.  173 

REMOVES. 

Tenderloin  of  Beef,  larded,  Milanaise  style. 
Saddle  of  Spring  Lamb. 

SIDE   DISHES. 

Pullet,  Toulouse  Style. 

Lamb  Cutlets  with  financier e  garniture. 

Cucumbers  stuffed  with  marrow. 

Orange-Flower  Cream  Fritters. 

SHERBET. 
Roman  Punch.     Kirsch  Punch. 

ROASTS. 

Turkey  with  Perigord  Truffles. 

Pheasants  garnished  with  Snipe. 

Salad  of  Celery  with  remoulade  Sauce. 

SECOND   COURSE  SIDE   DISHES. 

Artichokes  with  Butter  Sauce. 
Asparagus  with  Hollandaise  Sauce. 

DESSERT. 

Coffee  bombes.     Fancy  Nougat.     Madeira  Jelly. 

Candied  Violets.     Cheese.     Coffee  and  Liqueurs. 

Frozen  Champagne  in  carafes. 

The  American  Dinner. 

This  form  of  service  combines  the  advantages  of  the  two 
already  described,  and  still  preserves  the  genial  hospitality 
implied  by  the  personal  service  of  the  guests  by  the  hosts.  None 
of  the  principal  dishes  are  difficult  to  serve,  and  placing  them 
upon  the  table  greatly  adds  to  its  pleasant  aspect.  The  vege- 
tables are  brought  in  hot  at  the  moment  of  service,  when  the 


Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

large  dishes  have  been  placed  upon  the  table,  and  are  at  once 
passed  by  one  of  the  waiters.  This  partial  service  by  the  hosts 
enables  the  waiter  to  serve  more  rapidly.  All  the  dishes  are 
brought  to  the  dining-room  door  by  the  cook  or  kitchenmaid, 
so  that  the  waiters  need  not  leave  the  room ;  and  as  all  the 
necessary  dishes,  silver,  wine  and  the  little  dinner  accessories 
are  placed  upon  the  sideboard  or  in  the  hot  closet  before  the 
dinner  is  announced,  there  need  be  no  such  vexatious  delay  as 
occurs  when  the  attendants  are  obliged  to  leave  the  room  in 
search  of  something  required  upon  the  table.  This  routine,  once 
understood,  can  easily  be  carried  out,  and  prevents  all  confusion ; 
it  suits  both  plain  and  fine  dinners,  and  enables  one  well-trained 
servant  to  wait  upon  a  dozen  guests  with  ease. 

The  table  is  laid  as  for  the  dinner  a  la  Russe,  with  the  cotton- 
flannel  and  the  dinner  cloth,  which  may  be  of  plain  white  dam- 
ask or  as  elaborate  as  the  fancy  dicates.  All  the  covers, 
relishes,  confectionery  and  small  sweets  are  arranged  in  harmony 
with  the  decoration  of  flowers.  The  carafes  of  iced  water,  the 
wines  which  allow  of  decanting,  and  the  shell-fish,  are  placed  be- 
fore the  dinner  is  announced.  Directly  the  guests  are  seated,  the 
first  course  of  soup  and  fish,  if  there  is  but  one  service  of  each,  is 
placed  before  the  host  and  hostess ;  when  the  service  includes 
two  soups  or  two  dishes  of  any  course,  one  is  placed  before  the 
host,  and  the  other  before  the  hostess,  the  latter  being  given 
that  which  is  the  least  difficult  to  serve.  When  there  is  a  double 
service,  there  must  be  two  servants  at  least.  As  each  plate  is 
supplied  by  the  host,  the  servant  takes  it  from  the  left  hand,  and 
carries  it  to  the  left  of  the  guest,  together  with  the  appropriate 
vegetable  or  relish.  When  wine  is  used  it  is  poured  from  the  right 
hand  of  the  guest,  in  the  intervals  of  service  of  the  different 
courses.  Directly  all  the  guests  are  served,  and  the  host  has  taken 
a  portion  from  any  dish,  it  is  at  once  removed  from  the  table 
and  replaced  by  the  succeeding  course.  As  each  guest  signifies 


Flowers  and  Bills  of  Fare.  175 

nis  readiness  to  have  his  plate  removed — and  he  does  this  by  lay- 
ing the  knife  and  fork  side  by  side  across  the  middle  of  the  plate, 
with  the  handles  to  the  right — the  waiter  takes  it  away,  and 
replaces  it  with  a  hot  plate  and  another  knife  and  fork  appro- 
priate to  the  coming  service,  unless  these  are  already  upon  the 
table.  The  knife  and  fork  are  upon  the  plate,  and  the  guest  at  once 
lays  them  upon  the  table.  As  the  waiter  brings  a  plate  containing 
a  fresh  service,  he  takes  the  guest's  plate  back  to  the  host.  After  a 
vegetable  or  hot  sauce  has  been  passed,  the  dish  containing  it  is  set 
upon  the  sideboard,  ready  to  be  taken  away.  In  a  dinner  of  several 
courses,  it  is  unusual  for  a  guest  to  ask  for  any  dish  a  second 
time ;  but  at  a  small  family  dinner  the  sauces  and  vegetables  may 
be  placed  upon  the  table  until  the  course  to  which  they  belong  is 
removed.  The  plates  of  the  host  and  hostess  are  taken  away  at 
the  conclusion  of  each  course. 

When  the  dessert  is  reached,  all  the  glasses  are  taken  away 
except  the  water  tumbler  and  the  glass  of  the  wine  which  the  guest 
chooses  to  use  during  dessert ;  and  the  crumbs  are  removed  from 
the  cloth,  with  a  broad- bladed  silver  knife,  to  a  plate  or  small 
salver  held  in  the  left  hand  of  the  waiter.  The  knife  is  better 
for  this  purpose  than  a  crumb  brush.  The  dessert  plate,  contain- 
ing a  finger  bowl  and  dessert  knife  and  fork,  is  then  set  before 
each  guest,  who  at  once  removes  the  finger  bowl  and  its  doily, 
and  the  knife  and  fork,  to  the  table  ;  leaving  the  plate  ready  for 
the  waiter  either  to  take  to  the  hostess,  or  for  use  for  the  small 
sweets.  Coffee  can  be  served  at  table  or  in  the  drawing-room, 
and  tea  an  hour  after  dinner,  to  the  guests  who  remain,  or  to 
others  who  arrive  when  an  evening  at  home  follows  the  dinner. 

The  bill  of  fare  following  comprises  a  double  service ;  except 
in  the  courses  composed  of  terrapin  and  canvas-backs,  when  it  would 
be  gastronomic  heresy  to  suggest  the  choice  of  any  other  dish. 
When  either  ot  these  dainties  is  not  available  or  is  not  desired, 
they  can  be  replaced  by  any  chosen  entree  or  roast.  A  mayon- 


176  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified, 

naise  sauce  should  be  upon  the  table,  with  the  choicest  white 
celery,  to  use  with  canvas-back.  When  the  abundance  of  duck 
permits  half  the  breast  to  be  served  to  each  guest,  the  matter  is 
simple ;  but  when  the  supply  is  limited,  the  carving  becomes  a 
fine  art.  Then  several  deep  cuts  should  be  quickly  made  on  each 
side  of  the  breast,  down  to  the  bone,  but  no  slice  removed  until 
all  are  cut,  for  a  point  is  made  of  serving  canvas-back  very  hot ; 
the  small  bit  of  flesh  called  the  "  oyster  "  in  poultry,  which  lies  in 
a  little  hollow  of  the  backbone,  between  the  leg  and  the  wing, 
is  considered  by  epicures  the  most  delicious  morsel  in  the  entire 
bird.  The  use  of  melon  at  an  early  stage  of  the  dinner  is  of 
course  optional ;  but  either  pineapple  iced  and  without  sugar, 
cantaloupe  or  watermelon  is  refreshing  after  a  heavy  soup  or  fish ; 
and  both  the  latter  make  delicious  salads,  either  with  plain  salad 
dressing  or  with  mayonnaise,  as  also  does  choice  Florida  grape-fruit. 
In  many  of  the  larger  cities  the  tropical  fruit  called  the  alligator 
pear  is  sold ;  it  is  a  favorite  salad  in  the  East  and  West  Indies 
combined  with  mayonnaise,  and  is  eaten  with  lime  juice  or 
wine  and  sugar  at  dessert. 

BILL  OF  FARE  FOR  AMERICAN  DINNER. 

r         Blue  Points,  or  Little  Neck  Clams  on  the  half-shell. 
SHERRY 

Lemon,  brown  bread  and  butter, 
and  •{ 

Cream  of  Fresh  Mushrooms.     Terrapin  Clear  Soup. 
MADEIRA. 

Cantaloupe  or  Pineapple. 

Broiled  Pompano,  Cucumber  Sauce. 
CHATEAU  YQUEM.  Fresh  Salmon,  Shrimp  Sauce. 

Bermuda  Potatoes. 

Olives.     Salted  Almonds.     Cheese  Straws. 
CLARET.  Breast  of  Spring  Chicken  with  Cauliflower,  Hollandaise 

Sauce.     Cold  Boned  Squabs  with  Orange  Salad. 
MADEIRA.  Maryland  Terrapin. 

Champagne  Ice. 


Flowers  and  Bills  of  Fare.  177 

Canvas-back  Ducks,  Forest  City  Sauce. 
Celery.     Fried  Hominy. 

Lettuce  Salad  with  Roquefort  Cheese. 
CHAMBER-TIN.     < 

Broiled  Fresh  Mushrooms. 

Asparagus  with  Mayonnaise. 
Cabinet  Pudding  with  Rum  Jelly. 

DESSERT. 

Cream  Meringues.     Candied  Pineapple. 

CHAMPAGNE.  Philadelphia  Ice  Cream  with  Canton  Ginger. 

Nuts.     Crystallized  Fruits.     Cheese. 
Black  Coffee.     Cordials. 

Although  the  double  course  is  given  in  all  these  bills  of  fare, 
it  is  neither  imperative  nor  advisable  except  for  large  dinners  :  a 
simple,  well-chosen  menu  of  a  few  favorite  dishes,  one  or  two 
delicate  wines  when  they  are  desired,  or,  for  a  family  dinner, 
cider  or  some  light  malt  beverage,  will  often  prove  more  accept- 
able than  an  elaborate  repast.  An  excellent  little  dinner,  possible 
at  any  season,  may  be  arranged  somewhat  as  follows :  several 
dishes  are  named  for  each  course,  so  that  the  choice  may  be  made 
of  such  dishes  as  the  market  affords.  Wines  are  named,  but,  as 
already  indicated,  their  use  is  entirely  a  matter  of  choice. 


SOUPS. 

Stock  for  all  Kinds  of  Soup. 

Spread  your  soup  pot  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  lay 
on  it  next  the  meat,  either  a  knuckle  of  veal  or  beef  (or  both 
together  for  the  finest  kind  of  stock).  Add  a  cup  of  cold  water, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  three  middle-sized  onions  with  two 
cloves  in  each,  one  turnip,  one  carrot,  and  one-half  a  head  of 
celery  (if  you  have  it).  Put  the  cover  on  the  pot,  and  occasion- 
ally stir  it,  until  the  bottom  is  covered  with  a  whitish  glaze,  then 
fill  up  the  pot  with  cold  water,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  boil- 
ing draw  it  to  the  side  to  simmer  long  enough  to  jelly.  Strain 
while  hot,  and  vary  as  suits  yourself  when  serving.  To  two  gal- 
lons of  water  about  six  pounds  of  veal  or  seven  pounds  of  beef  is 
the  proper  allowance.  To  make  the  stock  very  clear,  put  it,  after 
straining,  over  the  fire,  skim  well,  and  when  boiling  have  ready 
the  whites  of  three  eggs  whisked  well  in  a  cup  of  cold  water. 
Add  to  these  a  cup  of  the  boiling  stock,  still  beating;  then  whisk 
the  stock  while  pouring  in  the  eggs,  continue  the  beating  until  it 
is  almost  on  the  boil,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  let  it  remain  a  few 
minutes,  when  strain. 

Calf's  Head  Soup. 

Take  the  head,  heart,  liver  and  feet  of  a  calf;  put  them  in  a 
pot,  and  cover  with  water ;  boil  until  very  tender,  removing  the 
scum ;  peel  the  tongue ;  separate  all  the  meat  from  the  bones, 
and  cut  it  into  square  pieces.  Keep  the  brain  with  it.  Pour  the 
water  into  a  dish,  and  put  the  kettle  over  the  fire  dry.  Dredge 
the  pot  well  with  flour  ;  rub  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter 
on  the  flour,  and  let  it  brown,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  burn  ; 
then  add  onions  chopped  very  fine.  Let  them  fry  a  little,  then 
add  the  meat  in  layers,  with  ground  black  and  red  pepper,  salt 


Soups.  1 79 

and  cloves.  Fry  slowly  on  the  back  of  the  stove  until  all  is  well 
browned,  stirring  frequently;  then  add  the  water  that  the  meat 
was  boiled  in.  Boil  five  or  six  eggs  hard.  Separate  the  whites 
from  the  yolks.  Chop  the  whites  very  fine,  and  put  them  in  the 
soup.  Put  the  yolks  in  a  tureen  with  claret  or  port  wine,  a  little 
nutmeg,  one  sliced  lemon,  and  forcemeat  balls.  The  lard  that 
these  are  fried  in  is  also  to  be  added  to  the  soup.  Boil  one-half 
hour ;  then  pour  on  the  ingredients  in  the  tureen.  This  soup  will 
keep  in  winter  several  days.  The  forcemeat  balls  are  made  with 
chopped  veal,  pork,  onions,  bread  crumbs  and  eggs.  Season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  roll  in  flour,  and  fry  in  lard.  The  shank 
bone,  from  which  the  meat  is  cut  to  make  these  balls,  may  be 
boiled  with  the  head. 

Beef  Soup. 

Four  pounds  of  the  best  part  of  the  shin  of  the  beef  to  three 
quarts  of  cold  water.  Let  it  come  to  a  strong  boil.  Skim  until 
no  scum  rises.  Scrape  and  wash  two  large  carrots  and  slice  them. 
Add  two  large  onions,  sticking  cloves  in  one  of  them ;_  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  parsley,  one-half  a  turnip  ;  if  you  have  celery, 
the  tops  or  waste  pieces  improve  the  soup  very  much,  or  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  celery  seed  tied  in  a  fine  piece  of  muslin.  When  the 
soup  boils  up,  set  it  on  the  back  of  the  stove,  where  it  will  sim  - 
mer  constantly  for  six  hours.  Then  strain  the  onions,  and  put 
them  in  the  oven  until  they  are  black,  and  add  to  the  soup  to 
give  a  nice  color.  It  is  best  to  make  the  soup  the  day  before,  as 
you  can  better  strain  all  the  fat  off.  When  the  soup  is  boiled 
enough,  strain  it  through  a  hair  sieve ;  and  when  ready  to  use, 
boil  rice  or  vermicelli  in  it  for  a  few  minutes. 

Beef  Bone  Soup. 

Boil  beef  or  mutton  bones  about  twelve  hours,  with  one  onion, 
one  turnip,  one  carrot,  and  celery.  Strain  it,  and  the  next 
morning  it  will  form  a  jelly.  Add  peas,  barley,  rice  or  vermicelli. 


180  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Ox  Tail  Soup. 

Make  as  above,  straining  the  vegetables  out.  Put  the  soup 
back  into  the  pot.  Mix,  for  thickening,  one  pint  of  flour  and 
water,  season  with  pepper,  salt  and  a  little  cloves,  stir  this  all  into 
the  soup,  and  let  it  boil  one-half  hour.  The  ox  tails  are  dressed 
and  put  in  instead  of  the  shin. 

Vegetable  Soup. 

Cut  your  vegetables  to  suit  your  taste,  put  them  in  a  stew 
pan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  sugar,  place  it  upon  a  sharp  fire  for  about  ten  minutes; 
do  not  allow  the  vegetables  to  get  brown,  but  just  covered  with  a 
thin  glaze,  when  pour  two  quarts  or  more  of  clear  stock  over 
them,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  draw  it  to  the  corner 
to  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  quite  tender,  and  then  serve. 
About  one-half  hour's  simmering  will  generally  do.  The  usual 
allowance  of  vegetables  is  one-half  a  pound  of  cut  vegetables  to 
two  quarts  of  stock. 

Pur6e  Vegetable  Soup. 

Cut  finely  three  onions,  three  turnips,  one  carrot,  and  four 
potatoes,  which  put  into  a  stew  pan  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  and  a  little  parsley.  Let  it  cook  for  about  ten  minutes, 
when  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Mix  it  well  in,  and  then 
add  two  quarts  of  stock  and  one  pint  of  boiling  milk.  Season 
with  a  little  salt  and  sugar.  Stir  until  boiling,  when  pass  through 
a  sieve,  and  serve  with  small  pieces  of  fried  bread. 

Mutton  Soup. 

Boil  a  leg  of  mutton  three  hours.  Season  to  your  taste  with 
salt  and  pepper ;  add  one  teaspoonful  of  summer  savory.  Make 
a  batter  of  one  egg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  all  well  beaten  together.  Drop  this  batter 
into  the  soup  with  a  spoon,  and  boil  three  minutes. 


Soups.  181 

Green  Corn  and  Tomato  Soup. 

Take  about  eight  or  ten  pounds  of  soup  meat,  and  put  over 
the  fire  in  cold  water,  skimming  it  well  before  it  boils.  Let  it 
boil  two  or  three  hours.  Then  cut  the  corn  from  twelve  ears  of 
sweet  corn,  and  put  the  cobs  into  the  boiling  soup,  allowing 
them  to  remain  until  all  of  the  sweetness  is  extracted ;  then  take 
the  cobs  out  and  put  in  the  corn  and  about  two  quarts  of 
tomatoes  (after  they  are  peeled  and  cut),  two  medium-sized 
onions,  and  two  carrots  chopped.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt 
just  before  serving.  A  dumpling  may  be  added,  made  with  one 
half-pint  of  sour  milk,  one  egg,  one  teaspoonful  of  saleratus, 
flour  and  a  little  salt.  Drop  by  the  spoonful  into  the  boiling 
soup. 

Tomato  Soup. 

For  one  gallon  of  soup  take  three  quarts  of  good  beef  stock, 
one  medium-sized  carrot,  two  small  onions,  one  turnip,  and  one 
beet  cut  fine.  Add  three  quarts  of  tomatoes;  boil  one  hour, 
and  strain  through  a  sieve ;  then  put  five  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
stew  pan,  beat  until  it  becomes  a  light  brown,  take  from  the  fire 
and  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  While  hot,  mix  well  and 
add  to  the  boiling  tomatoes.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
add  one  dessertspoonful  of  sugar.  Place  over  the  fire  again, 
boil  five  minutes,  and  skim. 

A  Soup  without  Meat. 

Boil  ten  good-sized  potatoes  until  soft  enough  to  mash. 
Boil  three  pints  of  milk,  and  stir  into  it  one- quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  a  little  salt  and  a  little  mace  or  nutmeg.  Pour  this 
over  the  potatoes,  stir  well,  and  strain  through  a  sieve  until 
smooth.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  again  until  it  boils.  Then  pour, 
boiling  hot,  into  a  tureen,  in  which  should  have  been  laid  six 
Boston  crackers  cut  in  half  and  toasted. 


1 82  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified, 

Clam  Soup. 

Fill  a  two-quart  saucepan  with  clams  in  the  shells  (long  clams 
are  best).  Wash  the  clams  first  in  three  waters,  until  the  shells 
are  very  clean.  Fill  up  the  saucepan  with  cold  water.  Let  it 
boil  until  the  clams  open.  Pour  off  the  water,  and  strain  it 
through  a  fine  strainer  and  put  it  aside  to  make  the  soup. 
Throw  the  clams  in  cold  water.  Pick  out  the  soft  part  for  use. 
One-half  hour  before  dinner,  put  the  liquor  on  the  fire,  and 
when  it  comes  to  a  boil  stir  in,  until  very  smooth,  a  piece  of 
butter  of  the  size  of  an  egg,  mixed  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour.  Add  mace,  salt,  pepper  and  one  cup  of  milk  or  cream. 
Boil  one-half  hour,  or  until  the  flour  is  cooked.  Put  in  the 
clams  to  get  hot.  Take  off  the  fire.  Stir  in  two  beaten  yolks 
of  eggs.  Do  not  allow  it  to  boil  afterward,  or  it  will  curdle. 

Mock  Clam  Soup. 

One  pint  of  beans  to  one  gallon  of  water,  boil  and  then 
strain,  then  add  one  small  onion,  summer  savory,  a  piece  of 
butter  as  large  as  two  eggs,  one  teacup  of  cream  (or  one  pint  of 
milk).  When  boiled,  toast  two  slices  of  bread  and  cut  them  in 
small  pieces.  Slice  four  hard-boiled  eggs.  When  ready  to 
serve,  pour  the  soup  over  the  bread  and  eggs. 

Parker  House  Soup. 

Three  quarts  of  stock,  two  quarts  of  tomatoes,  four  ounces  of 
butter,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one  beet,  one  turnip,  one 
carrot,  and  one  onion  sliced.  Boil  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Teal  Soup. 

Cut  a  veal  shin  into  small  pieces  and  fry  it  with  an  onion, 
add  water  in  sufficient  quantity,  put  in  one  tablespoonful  of 
_mixed  cloves  and  allspiece  (ground),  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
One-half  hour  before  serving  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
mixed  with  flour,  put  the  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  in  the  tureen, 
one  for  each  plate. 


Soups.  183 

Rice  Soup. 

Take  a  leg  of  lamb  of  moderate  size;  wash  it  and  put  it  into 
four  quarts  of  cold  water;  just  before  it  begins  to  boil,  take  the 
scum  off  carefully  with  a  skimmer.  If  this  be  neglected  and 
the  scum  boils  in,  then  strain  the  liquor,  and  return  it  to  the 
kettle.  When  it  boils  again,  add  about  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of 
rice;  season  to  taste  with  black  pepper  and  salt.  Add  one- half 
of  a  cup  of  sweet  cream  just  before  serving,  and  let  it  boil  up 
once.  This  soup  requires  about  three  hours  to  boil. 

Pea  Soup. 

Soak  the  peas  over  night.  In  the  morning  put  them  over 
the  fire  in  cold  water,  and  parboil.  Then  throw  off  that  water, 
and  pour  boiling  water  over  them.  Add  one  medium-sized 
onion  chopped, 'and  celery  cut  fine  (if  celery  cannot  be  had,  use 
celery  seed  tied  in  a  piece  of  muslin).  Boil  constantly  five  or 
six  hours,  stirring  frequently  to  prevent  burning.  Season  with 
pepper  and  salt  just  before  serving,  and  strain  through  a  colander, 
mashing  the  peas.  Boil  in  another  kettle  a  piece  of  salt  pork, 
and  about  half  an  hour  before  serving  add  this  to  the  soup. 
If  the  soup  is  too  thick,  add  boiling  water.  Serve  with  pieces 
of  the  pork  cut  fine,  and  small  squares  of  toasted  or  fried  bread. 

Asparagus  Soup. 

Take  some  asparagus,  and  boil  until  it  is  well  boiled  to  pieces. 
Then  strain  off  the  water;  add  milk,  pepper  and  salt.  Let  it 
boil  up.  Chop  some  parsley  fine,  and  put  it  in  the  tureen. 
Pour  the  liquor  on,  and  serve. 

Yermicelli  Soup. 

To  five  quarts  of  water  allow  a  slice  of  corned  ham,  one  pound 
of  veal  and  four  pounds  of  lamb.  Cut  the  meat  up  small,  cook 
slowly  until  the  meat  is  very  tender,  season  with  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  a  slice  of  onion,  salt,  and  if  you  desire  put  in  a  spoonful  of 


184  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Worcestershire  sauce.  Boil  all  this  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  strain 
through  a  sieve,  put  back  in  soup  kettle.  In  the  meantime  have 
one-half  pound  of  vermicelli  or  macaroni  broken  in  small  pieces, 
and  boiled  in  clear  water  for  twenty  minutes.  Drain  and  add 
this  to  the  soup,  boil  up  and  serve. 

Soup  Balls. 

Mix  together  cracker  crumbs  and  butter  into  a  firm  round 
ball.  Drop  into  the  soup  a  short  time  before  serving.  This  is 
very  nice  for  chicken  broth. 

Noodles  for  Soup. 

One  tablespoonful  water,  one  pinch  of  salt,  one  egg.  Stir  in 
all  the  flour  it  will  take.  Roll  as  thin  as  you  possibly  can,  let  it 
lay  on  the  mixing  board  and  dry,  then  roll  it  up  like  a  jelly  cake 
and  slice  off  as  thin  as  possible.  They  will  cook  in  twenty 
minutes. 

Vegetable  Soup. 

Simmer  together  slowly  for  three  or  four  hours,  in  five  quarts 
of  water,  a  quart  of  split  peas,  a  slice  of  carrot,  a  slice  of  white 
turnip,  one  cup  of  canned  tomatoes,  and  two  stalks  of  celery  cut 
into  small  bits.  When  done,  rub  through  a  colander,  add  milk 
to  make  of  proper  consistency,  reheat,  season  with  salt  and  cream, 

and  serve. 

Tomato  Cream  Soup. 

Heat  two  quarts  of  strained  stewed  tomatoes  to  boiling  ;  add 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  rubbed  smooth  in  a  little  cold  water. 
Let  the  tomatoes  boil  until  thickened,  stirring  constantly  that  no 
lumps  form,  add  salt  to  season,  have  ready  two  cups  of  hot  rich 
milk  or  cream.  Add  the  cream  or  milk  and  let  all  boil  together 
for  a  minute  or  two,  then  serve. 

Split  Pea  Soup. 

For  each  quart  of  soup  desired,  simmer  a  cupful  of  split  peas 
very  slowly  in  three  pints  of  boiling  water  for  six  hours,  or  until 


Soups.  185 

thoroughly  dissolved.  When  done,  rub  through  a  colander,  add 
salt  and  season  with  one-half  cup  of  thin  cream.  Reheat,  and 
when  boiling,  stir  into  it  two  teaspoonfuls  of  flour  rubbed 
smooth  in  a  little  cold  water.  Boil  up  until  thickened,  and  serve. 
If  preferred,  the  cream  may  be  omitted  and  the  soup  flavored 
with  a  little  celery  or  onion. 

Sweet  Potato  Soup. 

To  a  pint  of  cold  mashed  sweet  potatoes  add  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  strained  tomatoes,  rub  together  through  a  colander,  add  salt  to 
season,  and  half  a  cup  of  cream.  Reheat  and  serve. 

Tomato  Soup  with  Vermicelli. 

Cook  a  cupful  of  broken  vermicelli  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water 
for  ten  minutes.  Turn  into-  a  colander  to  drain.  Have  boiling 
two  quarts  of  strained  stewed  tomatoes,  to  which  add  the 
vermicelli.  If  preferred,  the  tomatoes  may  be  thickened  slightly 
with  a  little  corn- starch  rubbed  smooth  in  cold  water  before  add- 
ing the  vermicelli.  Salt  to  taste,  and  just  before  serving  turn  in 
a  cup  of  hot  thin  cream.  Let  all  boil  up  for  a  moment,  then 
serve  at  once. 

Vegetable  Oyster  Soup. 

Scrape  all  the  outer  covering  and  small  rootlets  from  vege- 
table oysters,  and  lay  them  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  to  prevent  dis- 
coloration. The  scraping  can  be  done  much  easier  if  the  roots 
are  allowed  first  to  stand  in  cold  water  for  an  hour  or  so.  Slice 
rather  thin,  enough  to  make  one  quart,  and  put  to  cook  in  a  quart 
of  water.  Let  them  boil  slowly  until  very  tender.  Add  a  pint 
of  milk,  a  cup  of  thin  cream,  salt,  and,  when  boiling,  a  tablespoon- 
ful  or  two  of  flour  rubbed  to  a  cream  with  a  little  milk.  Let  the 
soup  boil  a  few  minutes  until  thickened,  and  serve. 

White  Chicken  Soup. 

One-quarter  pound  of  cold  chicken,  two  quarts  of  white  stock, 
yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  one  quarter  pound  sweet  almonds, 


1 86  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

a  shred  of  lemon  peel,  a  slice  of  dry  bread,  a  blade  of  mace 
pounded  :  one  and  one-  half  cups  of  cream.  Add  to  the  almonds 
a  spoonful  of  water  and  pound  to  a  paste,  pound  the  meat  and 
bread  together,  add  the  almonds  to  it,  beat  all  together,  then  add 
the  mace  and  the  chopped  lemon  peel ;  heat  the  stock  to  boiling 
and  pour  over  the  mixture,  simmer  for  an  hour,  mix  the  cream 
and  eggs  together  and  add  to  the  soup,  let  it  boil  up,  and  serve 
at  once. 

Gumbo  Soup. 

Fry  very  brown  a  large  tender  chicken,  take  upon  a  dish  and 
fry  in  the  gravy  one  quart  of  sliced  okra,  add  the  okra  to  the 
chicken,  but  do  not  add  the  grease.  Put  the  chicken  and  okra 
in  a  porcelain  or  granite  vessel  of  cold  water,  add  one  large 
onion  sliced  thin,  one  pint  of  peeled  tomatoes  sliced,  a  few 
pieces  of  ham,  and  salt  to  taste.  Cook  for  one  hour  slowly,  then 
add  twelve  soda  crackers,  one  large  tablespoonful  of  butter  to 
make  it  very  rich,  add  six  hard-boiled  eggs  sliced ;  the  last 
thing  before  taking  up  add  one  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper. 
Never  boil  pepper  in  soup. 

Oatmeal  Soup. 

Put  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  oatmeal  into  a  quart  of 
boiling  water,  and  cook  in  a  double  boiler  for  two  hours  or  longer. 
Strain  as  for  gruel,  add  salt  if  desired,  and  two  or  three  stalks  of 
celery  broken  into  ringer  lengths,  and  cook  again  until  the  whole 
is  well  flavored  with  celery,  which  may  then  be  removed  with  a 
fork;  add  half  a  cup  of  cream,  and  the  soup  is  ready  to  serve. 
Cold  oatmeal  mush  may  be  thinned  with  milk,  reheated,  strained, 
flavored,  and  made  into  soup  the  same  as  fresh  material ;  a  slice 
or  two  of  onion  may  be  used  with  celery  for  flavoring  the  soup 
if  desired,  or  a  cup  of  strained  stewed  tomatoes  may  be  used. 

Pea  and  Tomato  Soup. 

Soak  one  pint  of  Scotch  peas  over  night.  When  ready  to  cook, 
put  into  a  quart  of  boiling  water  and  simmer  slowly  until  quite 


Soups.  187 

dry  and  well  disintegrated.  Rub  through  a  colander  to  remove 
the  skins.  Add  a  pint  of  hot  water,  one  cup  of  mashed  potato, 
two  cups  of  strained  stewed  tomato,  and  one  cup  of  twelve-hour 
cream.  Turn  into  a  double  boiler  and  cook  together  for  a  half- 
hour  or  longer;  turn  a  second  time  through  a  colander  or  soup 
strainer,  and  serve.  The  proportions  given  are  quite  sufficient  for 
two  quarts  of  soup.  There  may  need  to  be  some  variation  in  the 
quantity  of  tomato  to  be  used,  depending  upon  its  thickness.  If 
very  thin,  a  larger  quantity  and  less  water  will  be  needed.  The 
soup  should  be  a  rich  reddish  brown  in  color  when  done.  The 
peas  may  be  cooked  without  being  first  soaked,  if  preferred. 

Tomato  and  Macaroni  Soup. 

Break  a  half-dozen  sticks  of  macaroni  into  small  pieces,  and 
drop  into  boiling  water.  Cook  for  an  hour,  or  until  perfectly 
tender.  Rub  two  quarts  of  stewed  or  canned  tomatoes  through 
a  colander,  to  remove  all  seeds  and  fragments.  When  the  maca- 
roni is  done,  drain  thoroughly,  cut  each  piece  into  tiny  rings, 
and  add  it  to  the  strained  tomatoes.  Season  with  salt,  and  boil 
for  a  few  minutes.  If  desired,  just  before  serving  add  a  cup 
of  thin  cream,  boil  up  once,  and  serve  immediately.  If  the 
tomato  is  quite  thin  the  soup  should  be  thickened  slightly  with  a. 
little  flour  and  water  before  adding  the  macaroni. 

Scotch  Broth. 

Soak  over  night  two  tablespoonfuls  of  pearl  barley  and  one  of 
coarse  oatmeal,  in  water  sufficient  to  cover  them.  In  the  morn- 
ing put  the  grains,  together  with  the  water  in  which  they  were 
soaked,  into  two  quarts  of  water  and  simmer  for  several  hours, 
adding  boiling  water  as  needed.  About  an  hour  before  the  soup 
is  required,  add  a  turnip  cut  into  small  dice,  a  grated  carrot,  and 
one  half  cup  of  fine  pieces  of  the  brown  portion  of  the  crust  of  a 
loaf  of  whole-wheat  bread.  Rub  all  through  a  colander,  and 
add  salt,  a  cup  of  milk  and  a  half- cup  of  thin  cream.  This 
should  make  about  three  pints  of  soup. 


1 88  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Green  Pea  Soup. 

Gently  simmer  two  quarts  of  shelled  peas  in  sufficient  water 
to  cook,  leaving  almost  no  juice  when  tender.  Rub  through  a 
colander,  moistening  if  necessary  with  a  little  cold  milk.  Add  to 
the  sifted  peas  an  equal  quantity  of  rich  milk  and  a  small  onion 
cut  in  halves.  Boil  all  together  five  or  ten  minutes  until  the  soup 
is  delicately  flavored,  then  remove  the  onion  with  a  skimmer ; 
add  salt  if  desired,  and  serve.  If  preferred,  a  half-cup  of  thin 
cream  may  be  added  just  before  serving.  Celery  may  be  used  in 
place  of  the  onion  or  both  may  be  omitted. 

Cream  Pea  Soup. 

Soak  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  dried  peas  over  night  in  a 
quart  of  water;  in  the  morning  put  to  cook  in  boiling  water,  cover 
closely  and  let  them  simmer  gently  four  or  five  hours,  or  until 
the  peas  are  very  tender  and  well  disintegrated ;  then  rub  through 
a  colander  to  remove  the  skins.  If  the  peas  are  very  dry,  add  a 
little  water  or  milk  occasionally  to  moisten  them  and  facilitate  the 
sifting.  Just  before  the  peas  are  done,  prepare  potatoes  enough 
to  make  a  pint  and  a  half  after  being  cut  in  thin  slices.  Cook  the 
potatoes  until  tender  in  a  small  amount  of  water,  and  rub  them 
through  a  colander.  Add  the  potatoes  thus  prepared  to  the  sifted 
peas,  and  milk  enough  to  make  three  and  one-half  pints  in  all. 
Return  to  the  fire,  and  add  a  small  head  of  celery  cut  in  finger 
lengths,  and  let  the  whole  simmer  together  ten  or  fifteen  minutes, 
until  flavored.  Remove  the  celery  with  a  fork,  add  salt  and  a 
cup  of  thin  cream.  This  should  make  about  two  quarts  of  soup. 
If  preferred,  the  peas  may  be  cooked  without  soaking.  It  will, 
however,  require  a  little  longer  time. 

Velvet  Soup. 

Pour  three  pints  of  hot  potato  soup,  seasoned  to  taste,  slowly 
over  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  stirring  briskly  to  mix  the 
egg  perfectly  with  the  soup.  It  must  not  be  reheated  after  add- 


Soups.  1 89 

ing  the  egg.     Plain   rice  or  barley  soup  may  be  used  in  place  of 
potato  soup,  if  preferred. 

Green  Bean  Soup. 

Take  a  quart  of  fresh  string  beans,  break  off  ends  and  strings, 
and  break  into  small  pieces.  Boil  in  three  pints  of  water. 
There  should  be  nearly  two  cups  of  liquid  when  the  beans  are 
perfectly  tender.  Rub  through  a  colander,  return  to  the  kettle, 
and  for  each  cup  of  the  bean  pulp  add  one  and  a  half  cups  of 
milk,  salt  to  taste,  boil  together  for  a  few  minutes,  thicken  with  a 
little  flour  and  water,  and  serve.  A  quart  of  beans  will  make 
three  pints  of  soup. 

Potato  Soup. 

For  each  quart  of  soup  required,  cook  a  pint  of  sliced  potatoes 
in  sufficient  water  to  cover  them.  When  tender  rub  through  a 
colander.  Return  to  the  fire,  and  add  enough  rich  sweet  milk — 
part  cream  if  it  can  be  afforded — to  make  a  quart  in  all,  and  a  lit- 
tle salt.  Let  the  soup  come  to  a  boil  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour  or  corn-starch  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  a  little  water;  boil  a 
few  minutes  and  serve.  A  cup  and  a  half  of  cold  mashed  potato 
or  a  pint  of  sliced  baked  potato  can  be  used  instead  of  fresh 
material ;  in  which  case  add  the  milk,  and  heat  before  rubbing 
through  the  colander.  A  slice  of  onion  or  a  stalk  of  celery  may 
be  simmered  in  the  soup  for  a  few  minutes  to  flavor  it,  and  then 
removed  with  a  skimmer  or  spoon.  A  good  mixed  potato  soup 
is  made  by  using  one-third  sweet  and  two-thirds  Irish  potatoes, 
in  the  same  manner  as  above. 

Asparagus  Soup. 

Wash  two  bunches  of  fresh  asparagus  carefully,  and  cut  into 
small  pieces.  Put  to  cook  in  a  quart  of  boiling  water  and  simmer 
gently  till  perfectly  tender,  when  there  should  remain  about  a 
pint  of  the  liquor.  Turn  into  a  colander,  and  rub  all  through  ex- 
cept the  hard  portion.  To  a  pint  of  asparagus  mixture  add  salt 


190  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

and  one  cup  of  thin  cream  and  a  pint  of  milk ;  boil  up  for  a  few 
minutes  and  serve. 

Bean  and  Potato  Soup. 

Soak  a  half-pint  of  dry  white  beans  over  night ;  in  the  morn- 
ing drain  and  put  to  cook  in  boiling  water.  When  tender,  rub 
through  a  colander.  Prepare  sliced  potato  sufficient  to  make  one- 
quart,  cook  in  as  small  a  quantity  of  water  as  possible,  rub 
through  a  colander  and  add  to  the  beans.  Add  milk  or  water 
sufficient  to  make  two  quarts,  and  as  much  prepared  thyme  as 
can  be  taken  on  the  point  of  a  penknife,  with  salt  to  season.  Boil 
for  a  few  minutes,  add  a  tea  cup  of  thin  cream,  and  serve. 

Bean  and  Tomato  Soup. 

Take  one  pint  of  boiled  or  a  little  less  of  mashed  beans,  one 
pint  of  stewed  tomatoes,  and  rub  together  through  a  colander. 
Add  salt,  a  cup  of  thin  cream,  one-half  a  cup  of  nicely  steamed 
rice,  and  sufficient  boiling  water  to  make  a  soup  of  the  proper 
consistency.  Reheat  and  serve. 

Black  Bean  Soup. 

Soak  a  pint  of  black  beans  in  water  over  night.  Cook  in 
boiling  water  until  tender,  then  rub  through  a  colander.  Add 
sufficient  boiling  water  to  make  about  two  quarts  in  all.  Add 
salt  and  one-half  a  small  onion  cut  in  slices  to  flavor.  Turn  into 
a  double  boiler  and  reheat.  When  sufficiently  flavored,  remove 
the  onion  with  a  skimmer,  thicken  the  soup  with  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  browned  flour,  turn  through  the  soup  strainer,  and  serve.  If 
desired,  a  half-cup  of  cream  may  be  added  and  the  onion  flavor 
omitted. 

Celery  Soup. 

Cook  in  a  double  boiler  a  cupful  of  cracked  wheat  in  three 
pints  of  water  for  three  or  four  hours.  Rub  the  wheat  through 
a  colander,  add  a  cup  of  rich  milk  and,  if  needed,  a  little  boiling 
water,  and  a  small  head  of  celery  cut  in  finger  lengths.  Boil  all 


Soups.  191 

together  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  until  well  flavored, 
remove  the  celery  with  a  fork,  add  salt,  and  serve  with  or  without 
the  hard-boiled  yolk  of  an  egg  in  each  soup  plate. 

Green  Corn  Sonp. 

Take  six  well-filled  ears  of  tender  green  corn.  Run  a  sharp 
knife  down  the  rows  and  split  each  grain  ;  then  with  the  back  of 
a  knife,  scraping  from  the  large  to  the  small  end  of  the  ear,  press 
out  the  pulp,  leaving  the  hulls  on  the  cob.  Break  the  cobs  if 
long,  put  them  in  cold  water  sufficient  to  cover,  and  boil  half  an 
hour.  Strain  off  the  water,  of  which  there  should  be  at  least  one 
pint.  Put  the  corn  water  on  again,  and  when  boiling  add  the 
corn  pulp  and  cook  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  the  raw  taste  is 
destroyed.  Rub  through  a  rather  coarse  colander,  add  salt  and 
a  pint  of  hot  unskimmed  milk  ;  if  too  thin,  thicken  with  a  little 
corn-starch  or  flour,  boil  up,  and  serve.  If  preferred,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar  may  be  added  to  the  soup.  A  small  quantity  of 
cooked  macaroni,  cut  in  rings,  makes  a  very  pretty  and  palatable 
addition  to  the  soup.  The  soup  is  also  excellent  flavored  with 
celery. 

Chestnnt  Sonp. 

Shell  and  blanch  a  pint  of  Italian  chestnuts,  as  directed  in 
this  book,  and  cook  in  boiling  milk  until  tender.  Rub  the  nuts 
through  a  colander,  add  salt  and  sufficient  milk  and  cream  to 
make  a  soup  of  the  proper  consistency,  reheat  and  serve. 

Chicken  Soup. 

Take  a  large,  tender  chicken,  wash  and  clean  thoroughly; 
before  putting  over  to  boil  tie  the  feet  down  and  turn  the  wings 
back ;  for  each  chicken  use  two  quarts  of  water ;  when  half  done 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  rice  for  each  chicken.  Let  cook  until 
well  done  ;  before  serving  add  a  hard-boiled  egg  chopped,  a  little 
thickening  of  flour  and  water ;  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper 
and  parsley.  For  the  chicken  make  a  drawn  butter  dressing. 


THE  PREPARING  OF  SOUPS: 
FROM  THE  "FRENCH  AND  ITALIAN  CHEFS. 


White  Broth. 

Two  large  whole  and  well-scraped  carrots,  one  large  whole 
peeled  turnip,  one  large  whole  peeled  onion,  one  cleaned  parsley 
root,  two  cleaned  leeks  (optional),  four  leaves  of  cleaned  celery. 

First  select  a  good  knuckle  of  fine  white  veal  with  the  scraps 
of  meat,  including  the  bone ;  put  in  vessel  and  cover  completely 
with  cold  water,  adding  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  allow  it  to 
come  to  a  boil,  skimming  clean  as  scum  arises  (this  is  very 
important);  then  add  the  above  ingredients,  and  boil  slowly  for 
about  six  hours  on  back  of  stove;  skim  the  grease  and  impurities 
as  they  arise,  and  after  the  specified  time,  and  all  is  skimmed 
clean,  strain  through  cheese  cloth  into  stone  crock;  cover  the 
mouth  of  crock  with  cotton  batting,  and  keep  in  cool  place.  As 
this  sauce  is  used  in  making  soups  and  sauces,  it  would  be  well 
to  make  up  a  good  quantity  to  have  ready  when  necessary. 

Puree  of  Chestnuts. 

One  quart  white  broth,  one  tablespoonful  salt,  one  dessert- 
spoonful pepper,  quarter-pound  butter,  one  pint  chestnuts. 

Boil  the  chestnuts  first  ten  minutes;  then  peel  and  blanch 
them,  and  immediately  put  them  in  a  pan  and  mix  the  other 
ingredients,  and  let  all  boil  for  one-half  hour.  Rub  this  through 
a  sieve  into  a  vessel.  Keep  covered  in  cool  place,  and  use  as 

needed. 

Consomme  Plain. 

Chop  up  a  shin  of  beef  of  ten  or  twelve  pounds;  put  it  in  a 
large  soup  kettle  with  two  sound,  well-scraped,  good-sized 


Soups  from  French  and  Italian   Chefs.  193 

carrots,  two  peeled  sound  onions,  three  well-washed  and  pared 
leeks,  a  few  branches  of  celery  and  one  bunch  of  parsley  roots 
all  well- scraped,  washed  and  shred  ;  six  cloves,  eighteen  whole 
peppers,  a  bay  leaf,  and  the  whites  of  six  raw  egg£,  including 
their  shells.  Mix  all  well  together,  and  then  add  two  gallons  of 
cold  white  broth,  one  quart  of  cold  water :  all  this  should  be  done 
before  the  soup  kettle  has  been  placed  on  the  hot  range.  Stir 
thoroughly  for  two  or  three  minutes  without  ceasing,  and  then 
place  it  on  the  hot  range ;  add  some  debris  of  chicken  if  any  is  at 
hand.  Boil  slowly  for  about  four  hours,  skim  the  grease  off 
thoroughly,  and  then  strain  through  a  cheese  cloth  into  a  bowl 
or  stone  jar,  and  put  away  in  a  cool  place  for  general  use. 
Should  the  white  broth  that  you  employ  be  hot,  replace  the  cold 
water  by  a  piece  of  ice  well  cracked  and  the  equivalent  of  a 
quart  of  water,  adding  it  to  the  consomme  very  gradually  at  the 
beginning,  but  continually  increasing  and  stirring  till  all  is  added. 
Always  taste  if  sufficiently  seasoned  before  serving. 

Consomme  aux  Pates. 

Boil  the  consomme,  made  as  described,  and  while  it  is  boiling 
rapidly,  add  a  small  cupful  of  vermicelli,  macaroni,  rice  or 
noodles;  let  them  cook  for  five  to  ten  minutes,  stirring  constantly 
until  done.  The  vermicelli,  macaroni,  rice  or  noodles  must  have 
been  parboiled  previous  to  adding  into  the  consomme. 

Bouquet  of  Herbs  for  Soup.— From  the  French. 

Jj?ix  small  branches  parsley  stalks,  one  branch  soup  celery,  one, 
blade  of  bay  leaf,  one  sprig  thyme. 

rlace  two  cloves  in  the  center  of  the  parsley  to  prevent  the 
above  from  dropping  out  of  bouquet  when  cooking;  fold  all 
together  well,  tie  tightly  together  with  string.  This  makes  a 
nice  ornamentation  and  flavoring  for  soups. 

Italian  Sauce.— For  Flayoring  Soups. 

Four  tablespoonfuls  flour,  four  ounces  butter. 


194  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Place  in  pan  and  stir  continually  for  five  minutes ;  then  stir 
in  gradually  (a  little  at  a  time,  mixing  well  with  whisk  or  spoon) 
about  one  and  a  half  quarts  of  boiling  milk ;  add  a  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  two  pinches  of  salt,  two  dozen  whole 
peppers  and  the  bouquet  for  soup.  Allow  all  to  cook  for  about 
fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes,  and  when  done  rub  through  a  fine 
sieve.  It  may  be  flavored  with  a  little  wine  if  desired.  Keep  in 
cool  place  until  ready  to  use. 

Chicken  Forcemeat. 

Chop  in  pieces  two  raw  chicken  breasts,  and  pound  them  in 
a  mortar.  Soak  the  same  quantity  of  bread  in  milk,  and  add 
same.  Also  add  the  yolks  of  three  or  four  eggs  seasoned  with 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  nutmeg.  Mix  well  together,  strain  through  sieve,  put 
in  refrigerator,  and  use  as  needed.  When  desiring  to  make  a 
chicken  cream  forcemeat,  add  six  teaspoonfuls  of  cream. 

Consomme  a  la  Seyigne. 

Fill  six  very  small  moulds  with  the  chicken  forcemeat  and 
allow  to  poach  for  two  or  three  minutes  in  hot  water.  Allow 
them  to  cool,  turn  out  into  a  soup  dish,  and  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  each  of  cooked  peas  and  the  flower  of  the  asparagus,  and 
pour  over  all  one  quart  of  the  consomme  made  as  described. 

Potage  a  la  Harrison. 

Cook  a  calf  s  brain  and  pound  it  fine  in  a  mortar ;  add  three 
raw  yolks  of  eggs,  two  small  cooked  onions,  one  teaspoonful 
curry  powder.  Rub  all  through  a  fine  sieve,  pour  over  one  and 
a  half  quarts  of  hot  consomme,  add  sliced  baked  cucumber  and 

serve. 

Puree  of  Green  Peas. 

Two  quarts  white  broth,  one  quart  green  peas,  four  ounces 
salt  pork,  two  carrots,  two  onions,  one  soup  bouquet,  two  level 
teaspoonfuls  pepper. 


Soups  from  French  and  Italian   Chefs.  195 

Cook  for  one  hour  and  strain ;  add  one  cupful  of  cream,  and 
three-quarters  cupful  of  fried  bread  cut  in  small  heart  shapes, 
and  just  before  serving  add  in  two  ounces  of  butter. 

Fried  Bread  for  Soups. 

Cut  thin  slices  of  bread ;  cut  them  into  small  pieces,  square 
or  heart  shape ;  lay  on  tin  plate,  put  a  little  clarified  butter  on 
same ;  put  in  oven  for  five  minutes,  or  until  they  have  a  nice 
brown  color.  Take  out  as  they  are  ready,  to  use  with  soups. 

Pate-a-Chou.— To  Use  in  Soups. 

Four  gills  cold  milk,  quarter-pound  butter,  half-pound  flour 
well  sifted.  Mix  the  milk  and  butter  in  a  pan,  put  on  stove 
and  stir  gently,  and  just  as  it  boils  add  in  the  flour  and  stir 
constantly  for  two  or  three  minutes;  then  take  pan  off  the  stove. 
Break  in  an  egg  and  stir  briskly  for  two  minutes ;  break  in 
another  egg  and  stir  the  same  way,  and  so  on  until  six  eggs 
have  been  used ;  it  is  then  ready  to  use  as  wanted.  You  can 
make  up  one-half  the  quantity  if  you  desire  by  using  half  the 
ingredients. 

Potage  a  la  Franchise. 

One  pint  white  broth,  one  pint  Italian  sauce  (both  made  as 
described  in  this  book),  one  teaspoonful  pepper,  two  teaspoonfuls 
salt.  Allow  the  above  to  simmer  on  back  of  stove  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  add  a  handful  of  boiled  asparagus  tops  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter.  Have  in  the  soup  bowl  three  soft-boiled 
eggs  and  the  breast  of  chicken  or  other  fowl.  Pour  soup  over 
same  and  serve. 

Potage  a  la  Italian. 

Put  one  cupful  of  noodles  in  two  quarts  of  boiling  consomme; 
thicken  same  with  the  yolks  of  three  beaten  eggs,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  grated  cream  cheese,  one  cupful  of  cream,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Pour  into  the  soup  bowl,  adding  in  the 
wings  and  liver  of  a  cooked  chicken. 


196  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified, 

Potage  of  Rice. 

Two  pints  Italian  sauce,  two  quarts  white  broth,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  salt,  one  small  raw  chicken 
(have  it  tender). 

Cook  all  together  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes.  Take 
out  the  chicken,  and  thicken  soup  with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
well  beaten,  one  teaspoonful  of  curry  powdered,  one  cupful  of 
cream ;  strain  all  through  a  fine  sieve  into  soup  bowl,  adding  a 
half  cupful  of  boiled  rice  and  the  breast  of  the  chicken  previously 

cooked  in  the  soup. 

Bisque  of  Clams. 

One  quart  white  broth,  one  dozen  nice  large  clams,  one  bou- 
quet  for  soup,  half-cupful  raw  rice,  one  level  teaspoonful  pepper, 
or  enough  to  suit  the  taste. 

Boil  for  about  fifty  minutes,  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve ; 
add  a  cupful  of  cream,  and  serve  with  small  pieces  of  fried  bread 
as  described.  Use  no  salt. 

Bisque  of  Lobster. 

Boil  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  lobster  in  the  shell, 
and  make  soup  the  same  as  for  bisque  of  clams,  substituting  the 
lobster  meat  instead  of  clams. 

Bisque  of  Crabs. 

This  soup  is  made  the  same  as  bisque  of  clams,  only  using 
four  to  five  hard-shell  crabs,  boiling  them  first  in  salted  water  for 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  Wash  and  drain  them  well  with  fresh 
water  before  adding  the  meat  of  crabs  in  soup. 

To  Prepare  Green  Turtle. 

Select  a  nice  turtle.  Cut  off  the  head,  and  allow  to  bleed  one- 
half  day.  Remove  the  bones  and  cut  the  carcass  in  pieces,  and 
blanch  in  boiling  water  for  about  four  or  five  minutes.  Then 
lift  off  the  top  shell,  place  in  pan,  and  cover  with  the  white  broth. 
Tie  in  small  muslin  bag  fifteen  cloves,  five  bay  leaves,  one  large 


Soups  from  French  and  Italian  Chefs.  197 

tablespoonful  of  whole  peppers,  and  allow  all  to  cook  from  one 
to  one  and  a  quarter  hours,  adding  in  about  four  level  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  salt.  Drain,  remove  the  bones,  and  cut  meat  in  small 
square  pieces.  Reduce  the  broth  to  nearly  three-quarters  of  its 
original  quantity,  and  put  on  the  meat  and  allow  it  to  cook  in 
same  about  twelve  minutes.  Fill  pots  with  this,  and  when  it  is 
cooled,  pour  a  little  hot  butter  or  lard  over  same.  It  may  be 
flavored  with  sherry  or  madeira  wine  to  suit  the  taste. 

Green  Turtle  Soup. 

To  each  two  pounds  of  green  turtle  meat,  prepared  as 
described  in  green  turtle,  add  two  quarts  of  white  broth  in  a 
pan,  then  add  a  pinch  of  red  pepper,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  a 
little  grated  nutmeg,  one  bouquet  (made  as  described),  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  Worcester  sauce,  and  two  glassfuls  of  madeira  wine. 
Boil  for  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes.  Take  out  the  bouquet, 
and  serve  with  sliced  lemon. 

Mock  Turtle  Soup. 

Prepare  as  in  green  turtle  soup,  only  substituting  two  pounds 
of  cooked  calf's  head  instead  of  the  turtle. 

Gumbo  with  Frogs. 

One  ounce  butter,  two  small  chopped  onions,  two  ounces  raw 
ham  cut  in  small  square  shapes,  one  green  pepper  cut  in  small 
pieces,  one  tablespoonful  salt,  two  teaspoonfuls  pepper. 

Brown  all  the  above  in  a  saucepan.  Then  add  same  into 
two  quarts  of  white  broth ;  also  add  two  ounces  of  raw  rice,  two 
sliced  tomatoes,  one  dozen  gumbos,  and  allow  all  to  cook  from 
twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes.  Five  minutes  before  it  is  done, 
add  half  a  pound  of  frog  legs  cut  in  small  pieces.  Take  out 
an  r\  serve. 

Mulligatawny  Soup. 

Cut  in  small  pieces  one-half  of  a  chicken,  one  ounce  of  lean 
raw  ham,  one  green  pepper,  one  medium-sized  finely-sliced 


198  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

onion,  and  brown  all  together  in  a  pan  for  about  five  minutes. 
Then  turn  this  into  two  quarts  of  white  broth,  adding  in  same 
one  apple  cut  in  small  pieces,  one  teaspoonful  of  curry,  two  slices 
of  egg  plant  cut  in  small  pieces  and  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of  raw  rice. 
Season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  dessertspoonful  of  pepper 
(less  if  desired).  Boil  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes. 

Mulligatawny  with  Oysters. 

Make  the  same  as  above,  but  add  from  twenty  to  twenty-four 
oysters  three  minutes  before  taking  out  to  serve. 

Cream  of  Asparagus. 

Six  tablespoonfuls  flour  and  two  ounces  of  butter;  mix 
together  in  a  saucepan,  then  add  three  quarts  of  white  broth; 
put  in  a  bunch  of  asparagus,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  soup 
bouquet,  twenty  whole  peppers,  and  boil  thoroughly  for  about 
forty  minutes.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  add  one  cupful  of 
cream  and  serve. 

Cream  of  Celery  Soup. 

Make  the  same  as  above,  only  substituting  the  celery  instead 
of  the  asparagus. 

Julienne  Soup. 

Four  carrots  cut  into  long  shreds,  one  turnip,  four  leaves 
celery,  two  leaks,  one- quarter  of  a  small  cabbage,  one  medium- 
sized  onion.  Add  above  into  two  quarts  of  consomme',  made  as 
described,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste;  cook 
for  forty  minutes,  adding  two  to  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked 
peas  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  beans. 

Puree  of  Potatoes. 

Cut  a  quart  of  potatoes  into  very  small  pieces  and  cover  them 
with  two  quarts  of  white  broth  in  a  saucepan,  add  four  ounces  of 
butter  and  a  soup  bouquet,  and  season  to  suit  the  taste ;  cook 
for  forty  minutes,  strain  the  soup,  then  add  a  cupful  of  cream, 
and  serve  with  the  hot  fried  pieces  of  toast 


FISH  AND  MEAT  SAUCES. 


Lobster  Sauce. 

Pick  from  the  shell  the  meat  of  a  hen  lobster,  cut  in  small 
pieces  and  set  aside.  The  spawn  is  under  the  tail.  Rub  it 
smooth  with  one-half  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  then  put  through 
a  sieve.  Take  a  full  cup  of  melted  butter,  add  to  it  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  anchovy  sauce,  a  pinch  of  cayenne,  salt,  pounded  mace, 
and  the  sifted  spawn.  Mix  all  this  well,  add  the  lobster,  heat 
until  near  boiling,  but  do  not  let  boil,  as  it  will  spoil  the  color; 
serve  with  salmon  or  turbot  or  any  fish  desired. 

Drawn  Butter  Sauce. 

Rub  together  a  dessertspoonful  of  flour  and  a  half-cup  of  but- 
ter, put  into  saucepan  and  add  one  cup  of  water,  cover  and  set  in 
a  large  vessel  of  boiling  water ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  keep 
moving  the  dish,  and  when  thoroughly  mixed  take  off;  do  not  let 
boil. 

Sour  Sauce. 

Stir  one  teaspoonful  of  prepared  mustard  and  a  pinch  of 
pepper  with  half  a  cup  of  butter,  mix  well  with  a  cup  of  hot 
vinegar. 

Egg  Sauce. 

Add  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped,  to  a  plain  white  sauce. 

Plain  White  Sauce. 

One  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour 
made  smooth  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  add  a  pint  of  water 
slowly ;  if  it  seems  too  thin  cook  longer.  Using  milk  instead 
of  water  makes  it  a  cream  sauce. 


2OO  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Caper  Butter. 

One  tablespoonful  butter,  one  tablespoonful  chopped  capers, 
one  saltspoonful  salt,  a  pinch  of  pepper.  Serve  with  boiled  fish. 

Hollandaise  Sauce. 

Mix  in  saucepan  over  the  fire  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and 
one  of  flour,  add  gradually  one  and  one-half  cups  of  boiling  water, 
stir  into  this  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice  or  vinegar,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil. 

Shrimp  Sauce. 

Clean  carefully  one-half  pint  of  shrimps,  mince,  and  add  one 
large  cup  of  melted  butter  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne.  Let  simmer 
five  minutes. 

Tartar  Sauce. 

First  make  a  mayonnaise,  mix  with  it  one  tablespoonful  each 
of  chopped  capers,  gherkins  and  parsley  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  onions. 

Parsley  Sauce. 

Make  a  drawn  butter  sauce ;  dip  a  bunch  of  fresh  parsley 
into  boiling  water,  mince  it  and  stir  it  into  the  drawn  butter. 

Anchovy  Sauce. 

Soak  for  two  hours  in  cold  water  two  anchovies,  then  put 
them  in  a  pint  of  cold  water  in  the  stew  pan.  Let  simmer  until 
the  fish  are  dissolved.  Strain  this  and  add  one  cup  melted  butter 
and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Let  simmer  fifteen  minutes 
longer ;  serve  with  boiled  fish  or  meats. 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Sauce. 

Let  simmer  together  one  cup  melted  butter,  one  teaspoonful 
chopped  parlsey,  juice  of  one  lemon,  pinch  cayenne  and  salt. 

Melted  Butter. 

This  old-fashioned  sauce  is  seldom  well  made,  but  it  is  so 
excellent  that  it  deserves  attention.  It  should  be  made  about 


Fish  and  Meat  Sauces.  20 1 

fifteen  minutes  before  dinner  time.  Put  in  a  clean  saucepan  over 
the  fire  a  tablespoonful  each  of  butter  and  flour  and  stir  them 
until  they  bubble  ;  then  gradually  stir  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water, 
a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  white  perj- 
jaer,  and  stir  the  sauce  until  it  is  at  the  boiling  point  When  the 
sauce  boils,  draw  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  where  its 
contents  will  keep  hot  without  boiling,  and  stir  into  it,  one  at  a 
time,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  taking  care  that  each  one  is 
entirely  mixed  with  the  sauce  before  adding  another.  As  soon 
as  the  butter  is  stirred  in,  serve  the  sauce  in  a  hot  sauce  boat. 

Mint  Sauce. 

With  half  a  cup  of  vinegar  and  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  mix 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  spearmint.  Serve  with  roast 
meats. 

Celery  Sauce. 

Cut  in  small  pieces  two  heads  of  celery,  and  cook  in  one  pint 
of  water  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  it ;  rub  smooth  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  and  stir  into  a  pint  of  milk ; 
pour  this  over  the  celery,  let  come  to  a  boil,  and  serve  with  fowl. 

Mushroom  Sauce. 

Wipe  carefully  and  cut  into  small  pieces  one-half  pint  of  but- 
ton mushrooms  or  one-half  pint  of  mushroom  flaps.  Put  into  a 
cup  of  boiling  water  with  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  Let  simmer  for  ten  minutes,  then  thicken  with 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour  stirred  together.  Add 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Serve  with  meats. 

Sweet  Herbs. 

The  sweet  herbs  commonly  used  are  sage,  mint,  summer 
savory,  basil,  sweet  marjoram  and  thyme. 


2O2  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

White  Sauce  for  Game. 

Two  tablespoonfuls  grated  bread  crumbs,  one  cupful  butter, 
one  cupful  hot  water  in  a  stew  pan,  one  blade  mace,  grated  rind 
of  a  lemon.  Let  all  boil  together  five  minutes,  then  add  one  cup 
of  sweet  cider  and  two  lumps  of  loaf  sugar.  Let  boil  up  and  it  is 

ready  for  use. 

Asparagus  Sauce. 

In  a  little  salted  water  boil  one  dozen  tender  heads  of  aspara- 
gus ;  when  tender,  drain  and  chop.  Have  ready  a  pint  of  drawn 
butter  with  two  raw  eggs  beaten  into  it ;  to  this  add  the  cooked 
asparagus.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon.  The  butter  must  be  hot,  but  after  adding  the  asparagus 
do  not  cook.  Serve  with  fowl  or  meats. 

Southern  Mustard. 

Two  tablespoonfuls  ground  mustard,  one  tablespoonful  sugar, 
one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  one  teaspoonful  salt.  To  dis- 
solve the  mustard  pour  boiling  water  over  it,  then  add  the  other 
ingredients;  stir  well,  then  pour  on  vinegar  till  about  as  thin  as 

cream. 

Gooseberry  Sauce. 

Remove  the  tops  and  stems  from  a  pint  of  green  gooseberries  ; 
put  them  over  the  fire  in  a  porcelain  saucepan  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  white  sugar  and  half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water.  Stew 
them  gently  until  they  are  tender  enough  to  rub  through  a  sieve 
with  a  potato  masher.  While  the  gooseberries  are  being  stewed, 
make  a  white  sauce  as  follows :  Put  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  a 
heaping  tablespoonful  each  of  butter  and  flour,  and  stir  them 
until  they  are  smoothly  blended  ;  then  gradually  stir  with  them 
a  pint  of  boiling  water,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper.  Let  the  sauce  boil  for  a 
moment,  add  the  gooseberry  pulp  to  it  and  then  serve  it  with 
roast  or  baked  gosling.  This  sauce  is  sometimes  colored  green 
with  spinach  or  sorrel  juice. 


Fish  and  Meat  Sauces.  203 

Green  Apple  Sauce. 

Peel  and  slice  a  quart  of  green  apples,  put  them  over  the  fire 
with  half  a  cupful  of  water  and  a  cupful  of  white  sugar,  and  stew 
them  gently  to  a  pulp,  stirring  them  occasionally  to  prevent 
burning ;  when  the  apples  are  stewed  to  a  pulp,  add  to  them  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  cupful  of  cream,  and  a  very  little 
grated  nutmeg;  stir  the  sauce  unfil  the  ingredients  are  thoroughly 
mixed,  and  then  serve  it  with  roast  gosling. 

Cream  Onion  Sauce. 

Peel  and  slice  a  pint  of  onions,  put  them  over  the  fire  in  a 
clean  saucepan  with  enough  milk  to  cover  them,  and  stew  them 
until  tender ;  when  the  onions  are  tender,  beat  them  to  a  pulp 
with  a  fork,  add  to  them  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  white 
pepper ;  add  sufficient  milk  to  form  a  sauce  of  the  consistency  of 
cream,  and  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter ;  use  this  sauce  with 
boiled  chicken. 

Brown  Onion  Sauce. 

Peel  one  pint  of  onions,  slice  them,  put  them  into  a  frying- 
pan  with  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  fry  them 
brown ;  then  add  a  pint  of  any  good  gravy  or  broth,  and  a 
palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper ;  serve  this  sauce  with 
broiled  or  fried  beef  steak  or  chops. 

Butter  and  Lemon  Sauce. 

Butter  and  lemon  sauce,  made  as  follows,  is  good  with  boiled 
celery :  Melt  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  by  very  gentle  heat ; 
squeeze  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  take  away  the  seeds;  break 
two  eggs,  separating  the  yolks  from  the  whites.  When  the  butter 
is  melted,  add  it  gradually  to  the  egg  yolks,  and  stir  them  to- 
gether over  the  fire  until  they  begin  to  thicken  ;  take  the  sauce 
from  the  fire  directly  it  begins  to  thicken,  and  stir  in  the  lemon 
juice,  together  with  a  level  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  dust  of 
cayenne  pepper;  serve  the  sauce  as  soon  as  it  is  made. 


204  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Onion  Sauce. 

Peel  and  chop  fine  a  shallot  or  a  small  onion,  put  it  over  the 
fire  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  when  the  butter  begins  to 
brown,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  when  the  flour  is  brown, 
add  half  a  pint  each  of  port  wine  and  boiling  water,  a  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one 
grate  of  nutmeg ;  stir  the  sauce  until  it  boils,  and  then  keep  it 
hot ;  when  the  birds  are  done,  pour  the  drippings  from  them  into 
the  sauce,  mix  them  well  with  it,  and  then  serve  it  hot. 

Orange  Essence  Sauce. 

Chop  very  fine  two  peeled  shallots  or  one  onion,  grate  the 
yellow  rind  of  a  large  orange,  chop  one  ounce  of  ham  or  bacon 
very  fine;  put  these  ingredients  into  a  small  saucepan,  add  to 
them  a  slight  dust  of  cayenne  pepper,  half  a  pint  of  the  gravy 
from  roast  wild  fowl,  a  gill  of  port  wine  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt, 
and  gently  simmer  the  sauce  for  ten  minutes ;  meantime  squeeze 
the  juice  from  a  whole  orange  and  half  a  lemon  into  a  sauce  boat ; 
at  the  end  of  ten  minutes  strain  the  sauce  into  the  orange  and 
lemon  juice,  and  serve  it  at  once. 

Mustard  Sauce. 

Mustard  sauce  made  as  follows  is  good  with  corned  beef: 
After  the  beef  has  been  boiling  for  two  hours,  take  a  pint  of  the 
broth  from  it  to  use  for  sauce.  Peel  and  chop  a  bunch  of  chives, 
a  shallot,  or  two  or  three  small  green  onions,  and  put  them  over 
the  fire  in  a  pint  of  broth  to  boil  for  half  an  hour ;  then  add  a 
level  tablespoonful  of  dry  mustard,  a  gill  of  vinegar,  and  a  high 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  ;  stir  the  sauce  until  it  is  thoroughly 
incorporated,  and  then  keep  it  hot  until  it  is  required  for  the  beef. 

Sorrel  Sauce. 

For  this  sauce,  either  the  large-leafed  field  sorrel,  or  the 
small  trefoil  of  the  wood  sorrel  may  be  used.  Thoroughly  wash 
the  herb,  and  put  it  over  the  fire  in  an  earthen  or  porcelain-lined 


Fish  and  Meat  Sauces.  205 

saucepan,  with  only  the  water  which  remains  upon  it  after  it  is 
washed,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  to  each  pint  of  sorrel ; 
cover  the  saucepan,  and  cook  the  sorrel  until  it  is  tender  enough 
to  beat  to  a  pulp  with  a  fork ;  then  season  it  palatably  with  salt 
and  pepper,  add  to  it  enough  butter  to  make  it  semi-liquid,  and 
serve  it  on  the  dish  with  the  lamb.  Another  form  is  made  by 
mixing  smoothly  over  the  fire  a  tablespoonful  each  of  butter  and 
flour,  then  stirring  with  them  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  a  cupful  of 
boiled  sorrel  pulp,  and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper. 

Oyster  Sauce. 

When  the  turkey  is  nearly  done,  put  in  a  saucepan  over  the 
fire  two  level  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  two  heaping  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  stir  them  together  until  they  bubble; 
then  gradually  stir  in  the  oyster  liquor  and  enough  broth  from 
the  turkey  to  make  a  sauce  of  the  consistency  of  cream ;  season 
it  palatably  with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  let  it  boil  for  a 
moment ;  put  the  saucepan  containing  the  sauce  into  a  pan  of 
hot  water,  and  place  it  on  the  back  of  the  fire  to  keep  hot  until 
just  before  dishing  the  turkey ;  then  put  in  the  oysters,  and  let 
them  boil  once ;  meantime  dish  the  turkey,  remove  the  trussing 
cords,  pour  a  little  of  the  oyster  sauce  over  it,  and  serve  it  with 
the  rest  of  the  sauce  in  a  boat. 


MEAT  AND  FISH  SAUCES: 
FROM  THE  FRENCH  AND  ITALIAN  CHEFS. 


The  following  meat  and  fish  sauces  are  from  French  and 
Italian  chefs,  and  while  they  are  more  elaborate  and  a  little  more 
expensive,  they  are  conceded  to  be  finer  than  the  American 
sauces.  You  can  make  up  half  the  quantity,  if  desired,  by  using 
half  the  proportions  given.  In  making  a  quantity  of  sauce  to  be 
kept  for  future  use,  I  would  advise  housekeepers  to  put  them  in 
crocks  that  are  not  glazed,  and  tie  over  the  mouth  three  folds  of 
cotton  batting  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place. 

The  recipes  for  the  sauces  mentioned  in  the  following  formulas 
are  all  given  in  this  book  among  French  Meat  and  Fish  Sauces. 

White  Broth. 

As  this  broth  is  the  basis  of  many  of  the  sauce  formulas  given 
in  this  book  I  have  reprinted  it  here,  although  the  recipe  is  also 
given  in  soups : 

Two  large  whole  and  well-scraped  carrots,  one  large  whole 
peeled  turnip,  one  large  whole  peeled  onion,  one  cleaned  parsley 
root,  two  cleaned  leeks  (optional),  four  leaves  of  cleaned  celery! 

First  select  a  good  knuckle  of  fine  white  veal,  with  the  scraps 
of  meat  including  the  bone.  Put  in  vessel  and  cover  completely 
with  cold  water,  adding  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  allow  it 
to  come  to  a  boil,  skimming  clean  as  scum  arises  (this  is  very 
important).  Then  add  the  above  ingredients,  and  boil  slowly 
for  about  six  hours  on  back  of  stove.  Skim  the  grease  and 
impurities  as  they  rise,  and  after  the  specified  time  and  all  is 
skimmed  clean,  strain  through  cheese  cloth  into  stone  crock; 
cover  mouth  with  cotton  batting,  and  keep  in  cool  place. 


Sauces  from  French  and  Italian   Chefs,  207 

White  Sauce. 

Two  quarts  white  broth  (see  page  206),  half  a  carrot,  half  an 
onion,  six  whole  peppers,  one  bouquet  of  herbs,  two  ounces  flour, 
half  a  glassful  white  wine,  two  cloves. 

Put  in  saucepan  finely  shredded  salt  pork  and  beef  suet  of 
equal  proportions  and  reduce 'same ;  add  the  carrot,  onion, 
bouquet,  cloves  and  peppers,  and  brown  all  well  for  about  five 
minutes,  turning  occasionally  so  they  won't  burn ;  then  add  the 
flour,  stir  well  and  add  the  wine  and  white  broth  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  stewUfntil  it  comes  to  a  boil.  Then  allow 
it  to  boil  from  fifty  to  sixty  minutes ;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve 
and  it  is  ready  for  use.  It  will  keep  for  some  time,  and  is  nice 
for  fish  and  meats.  Keep  the  vessel  closed  and  in  a  cool  place. 
Make  the  bouquet  of  herbs  as  directed  in  this  book ;  also  the 
white  broth. 

Cooked  Herbs. 

Four  shallots  peeled,  two  medium-sized  onions. 

Chop  the  above  in  small  pieces,  add  two  ounces  of  butter, 
and  put  pan  on  stove  and  leave  until  they  are  a  nice  brown 
color.  Chop  fine  double  that  quantity  of  mushrooms,  and  season 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  dessertspoonful  of  pepper,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  parsley  chopped  fine.  Cook  all  ten  to  twelve 
minutes  longer.  Allow  to  cool  and  serve  when  needed. 

Napoleon  Sauce. 

Two  ounces  flour,  four  ounces  butter,  three  pints  milk,  one 
teaspoonful  grated  nutmeg,  one  bouquet  of  herbs,  twenty  whole 
peppers. 

Put  in  saucepan  the  butter  and  flour,  and  stir  well  together 
until  well  mixed.  Pour  over  the  milk,  pouring  in  a  little  at  a 
time,  and  each  time  stirring  well.  Then  add  the  balance  of  the 
ingredients,  and  flavor  with  a  little  liquor  if  desired ;  also  two 
pinches  of  salt.  Cook  all  about  fifteen  minutes,  rub  through  a 
fine  sieve,  and  keep  in  crocks  as  directed. 


208  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Royal  Fish  Sauce. 

Two  medium-sized  onions,  two  medium-sized  carrots,  one 
bunch  parsley  roots. 

Chop  all  fine  and  mix  well  together,  pour  over  two  glassfuls 
white  or  red  wine,  add  to  this  pieces  of  fish  head  that  has  been 
well  cleaned  and  washed,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the 
taste,  and  allow  to  boil  from  six  to  eight  minutes ;  allow  to  cool, 
strain  through  cheese  cloth  into  crock ;  cover  crock  and  keep  in 
cool  place. 

Mirepoi% 

Twelve  whole  peppers,  six  cloves,  four  sprigs  celery,  one 
punch  parsley  roots,  two  bay  leaves,  two  sprigs  thyme,  two  small 
onions,  four  medium-sized  carrots,  four  ounces  fat. 

Put  the  fat  in  saucepan,  and  as  it  commences  to  melt  add  the 
other  ingredients  chopped  fine  and  allow  to  cook  over  medium  fire 
eighteen  to  twenty  minutes ;  as  it  commences  to  boil  add  some 
scraps  of  baked  veal  chopped  fine.  Allow  to  cool  and  put  away 
in  crocks  as  directed. 

Universal  Sauce. 

Two  quarts  white  broth  (see  page  206),  one-half  pint  mire- 
poix  (see  above),  one  ounce  chicken  fat,  two  ounces  flour. 

Mix  the  mirepoix,  made  as  directed,  with  the  fat,  then  pour 
over  the  white  broth,  stir  in  the  flour  and  mix  all  well  together. 
Add  scraps  of  baked  veal  chopped  fine ;  boil  for  nearly  three 
hours.  Skim  out  the  fat  carefully,  rub  balance  through  a  fine 
sieve,  put  in  crocks  as  directed ;  keep  in  cool  place.  It  will  keep 
for  an  indefinite  time. 

Clear  Gravy. 

One  and  one-half  gallons  cold  water,  two  sliced  carrots,  one 
medium-sized  onion,  two  bay  leaves,  one  sprig  thyme,  one-half 
bunch  parsley  roots,  two  ounces  uncooked  salt  pork. 

Add  any  scraps  of  meat  or  chicken  giblets  and  a  handful  of 
salt ;  cover  vessel  and  allow  to  cook  thoroughly  for  over  one  hour 


Sa^lces  front  French  and  Italian   Chefs.  209 


and  a  half.  Take  off,  strain  through  cheese  cloth  in  stone  crock 
and  cover  as  directed  with  cotton  batting.  Always  skim  off  fat 
impurities  as  they  arise. 

Horse-radish  Butter. 

One  tablespoonful  grated  horse-radish,  four  ounces  butter. 

Mix  well  together  and  season  with  a  very  little  red  pepper. 
Put  through  a  fine  sieve  and-  keep  in  a  cool  place.  If  added  to 
sauces  it  should  be  done  after  they  are  taken  off  the  stove,  not 
while  they  are  boiling.  ^ 

Meat  Glaze. 

To  make  about  three-quarters  of  a  pint,  take  twelve  quarts  of 
white  broth  and  boil  it  over  a  moderate  fire  for  about  four  to 
four  and  one- half  hours ;  this  should  reduce  it  down  to  nearly 
three-quarters  of  a  pint.;  put  this  in  covered  stone  crocks  in  a 
cool  place.  Make  this  from  the  white  broth,  as  directed  in 

French  soups. 

Mayonnaise  Sauce. 

Three-quarters  pint  good  sweet  oil,  two  yolks  of  fresh  eggs, 
one-half  teaspoonful  ground  mustard,  small  pinch  of  salt,  one-half 
saltspoonful  red  pepper,  or  less. 

Beat  eggs  in  a  bowl,  and  mix  thoroughly  all  the  spices, 
stirring  constantly  for  three  or  four  minutes,  then  pour  in  a  drop 
at  a  time  of  oil,  stirring  rapidly  until  all  the  oil  is  dissolved ;  if  it 
should  get  too  thick  add  drop  by  drop,  stirring  in  the  same  way, 
three-quarters  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar ;  if  it  should  be  too 
acid  add  one  or  more  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  drop  by  drop,  stirring 
constantly,  until  it  is  the  proper  consistency  and  suits  the  taste. 
It  will  take  from  twenty  to  twenty- five  minutes  to  prepare  this, 
but  it  is  an  elegant  sauce  and  well  worth  the  trouble.  Be  careful 
to  keep  sauce  in  a  dark  place  in  temperature  not  over  seventy 
degrees,  or  it  will  spoil.  You  can  use  more  or  less  red  pepper  if 
desired.  Use  the  best  sweet  oil  and  see  that  it  is  fresh  ;  also 


2io  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

good  vinegar,  or  you  cannot  succeed;  it  is  best  to  stir  with  a 
wooden  spoon. 

Spanish  Sauce. 

One  pint  white  broth  (see  page  206),  three  egg  yolks,  four 
tablespoonfuls  butter,  three  tablespoonfuls  flour. 

Melt  the  butter  in  pan  on  the  back  of  stove,  add  the  flour  to 
thicken  same,  stir  constantly  until  it  browns,  add  the  white 
sauce,  stirring  well,  and  allow  it  to  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes ; 
then  take  off  and  pour  over  the  beaten  egg  yolks,  pouring  over 
a  little  at  a  time  and  mixing  well.  When  all  is  dissolved  strain, 
and  then  add  one  tablespoonful  more  butter  and  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon,  and  serve. 

Parisian  Sauce. 

One  pint  Spanish  sauce  (see  above),  one-half  glassful  white 
wine,  five  chopped  mushroons,  one  tablespoonful  butter,  one 
tablespoonful  lobster  coral. 

Pound  the  coral  in  a  mortar  and  mix  with  the  butter ;  then 
mix  the  Spanish  sauce  with  the  mushrooms  and  wine ;  let  these 
come  to  a  simmer,  not  boil,  on  back  of  stove,  then  add  the 
lobster  coral,  stir  well,  and  serve.  Have  the  mushrooms  chopped 
fine  and  see  that  sauce  is  only  allowed  to  heat  through  thoroughly ; 
don't  allow  it  to  boil. 

Madeira  Sauce. 

One  herb  bouquet,  one  pint  Universal  saucg  (see  page  208), 
one  small  glassful  mushroom  liquor,  one  small  glassful  madeira 
wine,  one-half  to  three-quarters  teaspoonful  red  pepper. 

Mix  together  and  boil  for  half  an  hour,  removing  the  fat  and 
other  impurities  as  they  arise.  Strain  into  stone  crock  and  keep 
covered  in  cool  place. 

Sauce  a  la  Hollandaise. 

Two  pints  white  broth  (see  page  206),  two  large  tablespoon- 
fuls flour,  one  medium-sized  onion  sliced,  eight  whole  peppers, 
one  bay  leaf,  two  ounces  good  butter. 


Sauces  from  French  and  Italian  Chefs.  2 1 1 

Place  the  butter  in  saucepan  when  melted ;  add  the  onions, 
pepper  and  bay  leaf,  then  stir  in  the  flour  to  thicken  it ;  pour  in 
the  white  broth  and  mix  well  together ;  remove  carefully  the  fat 
as  it  arises,  then  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
grated  nutmeg,  and  allow  all  to  cook  from  twenty- five  to  thirty 
minutes  ;  in  the  meanwhile  beat  separately  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
with  a  small  lemon,  and  when  the  sauce  is  done,  place  on  back  of 
stove,  and  stir  in  gradually  the  eggs.  Rub  all  through  a  fine 
sieve  into  a  bowl.  Mix  in  about  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and 
serve  with  the  fish. 

Egg  Sauce. 

One  teaspoonful  parsley  chopped  fine,  two  hard-boiled  eggs 
chopped  fine,  one  pint  Hollandaise  sauce  (see  above). 
Mix  well  together 

Mint  Sauce. 

One  pint  white  broth  (see  page  206),  one  pint  cold  water, 
one-half  bunch  mint  leaves  chopped  fine,  four  ounces  vinegar, 
one  ounce  sugar,  six  teaspoonfuls  salt.  Stir  well,  and  serve. 

Cream  Sauce. 

One  pint  Napoleon  sauce  (see  page  207),  two  tablespoonfuls 
butter,  one  cupful  cream. 

First  mix  the  butter  and  the  sauce  well  together,  then  add  the 
cream  and  serve. 

Tomato  Sauce. 

One  quart  nice  medium-sized  tomatoes,  two  tablespoonfuls 
butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  flour,  one  pinch  of  salt,  one-half  pinch 
pepper,  one  small  teaspoonful  sugar,  one  ounce  mirepoix  sauce 
(see  page  208). 

Mix  the  mirepoix  sauce  with  the  butter  in  a  saucepan ; 
cook  over  moderate  fire  for  five  or  six  minutes,  then  add  the  flour, 
and  cook  until  all  is  a  nice  brown  color ;  then  put  in  your  toma- 
toes, having  previously  washed  well  and  quartered  them,  stirring 


212  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

rapidly  until  they  boil ;  then  put  in  your  seasoning  and  boil  all 
from  forty-five  to  fifty  minutes,  strain  all  into  a  crock,  cover  and 
put  into  a  cool  place.  In  using  canned  tomatoes  to  make  this 
sauce,  boil  only  half  an  hour.  Mirepoix  sauce  made  as  described 

in  this  book. 

Raw  Herbs. 

Mix  together  the  following,  each  having  been  chopped  fine 
separately :  Four  shallots,  one  onion,  six  well-washed  parsley 
stalks,  four  sprigs  parsley  well  washed,  two  sprigs  thyme,  two 
bay  leaves.  Mix  thoroughly  before  using. 


Lobster  Butter. 

Two  tablepoonfuls  butter,  one  teaspoonful  mustard,  the  coral 
of  one  cooked  lobster. 

Pound  the  coral  in  a  mortar  to  a  fine  paste,  add  the  other 
ingredients ;  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  in  a  crock  in  a  cool 
place.  This  butter  is  also  used  for  coloring  purposes. 

Bntter  a  la  Italienne. 

One  teaspoonful  anchovy  essence,  two  ounces  butter,  one 
drop  spinach  green,  two  small  peeled  shallots,  two  sprigs  tarra.- 
gon,  two  sprigs  thyme,  two  sprigs  parsley. 

Pound  the  greens  finely  in  a  mortar ;  add  the  essence,  butter 
and  spinach  green ;  rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  keep  as 
directed  in  stone  crocks. 

Butter  Maitre  d'HOtel. 

Four  tablespoonfuls  butter,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  finely  chopped  celery. 

Sprinkle  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  stir  well  together,  and  put  in 
covered  crock  in  a  cool  place. 


GARNISHES. 


These  are  very  necessary  in  ornamenting  all  dishes,  as  they 
make  them  more  appetizing  and"  more  attractive. 

Lemon  and  parsley  are  the  housekeeper's  favorite  garnishes. 

Those  who  have  a  garden  may  always  find  something  green 
for  a  garnish. 

For  sardines,  raw  oysters,  boiled  fowl,  turkey,  fish,  roast 
veal,  steaks,  salads,  use  lemon  slices  cut  very  thin. 

For  cold  meats,  salads,  poultry,  steaks,  fish,  chops  and 
cutlets,  use  parsley ;  and  celery  tops  or  lettuce  can  be  used  with 
a  very  pleasing  effect. 

For  cold  corned  beef  sliced,  gherkins  or  large  pickles  cut  cross- 
wise. 

Currant  jelly  for  game,  cold  tongue,  fried  oysters,  roast 
veal,  etc. 

Watercresses  may  be  used  for  fowls. 

For  roast  turkey,  put  link  sausages  around  edge  of  platter. 

For  cold  ham  sliced  thin,  cold  hard-boiled  eggs  sliced ;  cut 
in  fancy  shapes  different  colored  vegetables,  and  use  around 
almost  any  dish  of  meat  or  fish. 

For  scalloped  oysters  use  parsley,  celery  tops  or  lettuce. 

An  exceedingly  pretty  decoration  is  sheep  sorrel;  it  can  be 
used  with  or  without  lemon. 

A  sprig  of  parsley  put  on  a  steak  is  exceedingly  pretty. 

Smilax  is  an  attractive  decoration.  It  may  be  arranged  in 
vines  on  the  table  or  about  a  dish  of  fruit ;  it  is  extremely  pleasing. 

Balls  made  of  boiled  rice,  with  a  little  jelly  on  each,  are  very 
attractive  around  a  plate  of  cold  meat ;  or  the  rice  may  be  colored 
with  cochineal,  with  pleasing  effect, 


214  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

On  a  roast  or  sirloin  of  beef  use  potato  croquettes  or 
Saratoga  chips. 

Beets  pickled  and  cut  in  fancy  shapes  for  cold  meat,  boiled 
beef,  salt  fish. 

For  a  mutton  chop,  a  slice  of  lemon  cut  crosswise. 


FROM  FRENCH  AND  ITALIAN  CHEFS. 

Garnishing  a  la  Rothschild. 

Two  tablespoonfuls  butter,  one  tomato  cut  in  small  pieces, 
one  green  pepper  peeled  and  cut  fine,  eighteen  canned  shrimps 
picked  and  chopped  up,  one  heaping  teaspoonful  salt,  three- 
quarters  level  teaspoonful  pepper.  Cook  all  together  in  saucepan 
for  ten  minutes  and  use  for  garnishing. 

Marrow  Garnishing. 

Remove  the  marrow  of  three  nice  marrow  bones,  and  put  in 
salted  water  and  allow  to  remain  for  one  hour ;  drain  it,  cut  in 
small  pieces,  add  three-quarters  of  a  pint  hot  Madeira  sauce  and 
allow  all  to  come  to  a  good  boil ;  drop  in  a  few  drops  of  good 
vinegar.  When  serving,  put  the  marrow  on  top. 

Garnishing  a  la  Astor. 

One  cupful  Universal  sauce  (see  page  208),  one  cupful  tomato 
sauce  (see  page  211),  one  small  cupful  of  cooked  smoked  beef 
tongue  mir.ced  fine.  Mix  together  and  let  boil  about  seven  or 
eight  minutes,  and  serve. 

Bread  for  Garnishing. 

Cut  six  rather  thin  slices  out  of  an  American  loaf  of  bread ; 
neatly  pare,  then  cut  them  into  heart-shapes  or  squares.  Lay 
them  on  a  tin  plate,  drip  a  little  clarified  butter  over  them,  place 
in  the  hot  oven  for  five  minutes,  to  get  a  golden  brown.  Take 
from  out  the  oven,  and  use  when  required. 


Garnishes  from  French  and  Italian   Chefs.  215 

Puree  of  Chestnuts. 

Boil  one  pint  of  chestnuts  for  ten  minutes;  peel  and  skin 
them  immediately,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  pints  of 
white  broth,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
pepper  and  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter.  Let  all  boil  well  for 
thirty  minutes  ;  rub  through  a  sieve,  and  use  when  needed. 

Glazed  Onions  for  Garnishing. 

Select  one  quart  of  small  onions ;  peel  the  sides  only,  and 
pare  the  roots  neatly,  being  careful  not  to  cut  them.  Place  them 
in  a  pan  with  half  an  ounce  of  clarified  butter,  and  dust  them 
with  a  pinch  of  powdered  sugar.  Glaze  them  in  a  slow  oven  for 
fifteen  minutes ;  place  them  in  a  stone  jar,  and  use  for  garnish- 
ing as  needed. 

Glazed  Turnips  with  Gravy. 

Pare,  and  cut  heart-shaped,  twelve  small  white  turnips  ;  par- 
boil them  for  five  minutes,  and  drain  them  when  done.  Butter 
the  bottom  of  a  pan  capable  of  holding  them  one  beside  the 
other,  and  let  them  get  a  golden  brown,  adding  one  cup  of 
powdered  sugar.  Moisten  with  one  cup  of  white  broth,  half  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and  add  very  small  stick  of  cinnamon.  Cover  with 
a  buttered  paper  cut  the  shape  of  pan,  and  place  it  in  the  oven 
to  cook  for  twenty  minutes.  When  the  turnips  are  cooked,  lift 
off  the  paper.  Place  the  turnips  on  a  hot  dish,  and  reduce  the 
gravy  to  a  glaze  for  six  minutes.  Arrange  them  nicely  on  a  dish, 
pour  half  a  gill  of  white  broth  into  the  saucepan  to  loosen  the 
glaze,  remove  the  cinnamon,  and  pour  sauce  over  the  turnips. 

Garnishing  a  la  Eugene 

One  pint  of  Napoleon  sauce  (see  page  207),  one-quarter  pint 
white  broth  (see  page  206),  one  tablespoonful  butter,  one  table- 
spoonful  salt,  one  level  saltspoonful  pepper,  two  large  white  onions 
cut  up.  Put  in  a  saucepan  the  broth,  onions,  butter  and  spices, 


216  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

cover  it  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  frequently  ;  then 
add  the  Napoleon  sauce,  and  cook  five  minutes  more  ;  put  in  a 
little  grated  nutmeg  and  serve. 

Garnishing  a  la  Victoria. 

One  pint  of  white  broth,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  wash  well 
in  colander;  one  cooked  chicken  wing,  pounded  fine  in  a  mortar  ; 
four  teaspoonfuls  salt,  one  teaspoonful  pepper.  Put  the  above  in 
saucepan  and  allow  to  cook  for  thirty-five  minutes  over  moderate 
fire,  then  strain  and  return  to  saucepan,  adding  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  cream,  and  allow  to 
come  to  a  slow  simmer,  not  to  boil ;  decorate  with  thin  slices  of 
cooked  partridge,  pigeon  or  quail,  dripping  a  little  meat  glaze 
over  same,  and  serve.  (See  meat  glaze,  page  209.) 


FORCEMEATS. 


English  Forcemeat. 

Three  eggs,  four  teaspoonfuls  salt,  two  teaspoorifuls  pepper, 
four  teaspoonfuls  sage,  half-teaspoonful  grated  nutmeg,  one  pinch 
of  parsley,  three  or  four  sausages  chopped  fine. 

Mix  all  well  together,  and  add  the  crumbs  of  a  loaf  of  stale 
bread  (previously  soaked  in  a  bowl  for  twenty  minutes).  Stir 
together  well,  then  brown  in  saucepan  two  medium-sized  onions 
chopped  fine  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  add  to  the 
above,  and  use  when  required. 

Chicken  Forcemeat  with  Cream. 

The  whites  of  three  eggs,  four  tablespoonfuls  cream,  two  raw 
chicken  breasts  without  bone  and  pounded  fine  in  mortar,  two 
teaspoonfuls  salt,  one  level  teaspoonful  pepper,  one  teaspoonful 
grated  nutmeg. 

Mix  the  above  well  together  and  serve  when  needed. 

Fish  Forcemeat. 

The  whites  of  three  eggs,  one  pound  of  fish  with  skin  and 
bone  removed,  two  teaspoonfuls  salt,  one  small  teaspoonful  pep- 
per, one  small  teaspoonful  grated  nutmeg,  one  cupful  cream. 

Pound  the  fish  well  in  mortar,  adding  in  the  white  of  eggs 
gradually ;  when  well  pounded  add  in  the  spices  and  cream,  mix 
well,  and  put  away  until  needed. 

It  is  best  to  put  the  forcemeats  in  your  stone  crocks  (not 
glazed),  cover  and  put  in  your  refrigerator. 


2i8  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Lobster  Forcemeat. 

Two  tablespoonfuls  butter,  one  tablespoonful  flour,  one 
medium-sized  onion  chopped  fine.  Put  above  in  saucepan  to 
fry  until  br&wn,  then  add  half  £  pint  white  stock  (see  page  206). 
Stir  well  and  continually  until  it  hardens.  Then  season  with 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  three-quarters  teaspoonful  white  pepper, 
half-teaspoonful  red  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  of  any  English 
sauce,  half-teaspoonful  mustard,  one  teaspoonful  chopped  parsley. 
Mix  these  well  together,  adding  two  pounds  of  cooked  or  canned 
lobster  and  one  dozen  mushrooms,  all  minced  fine.  Cook  this 
mixture  for  thirty-five  minutes,  then  set  on  back  of  stove, 
add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  well  beaten,  mix  well  and  use  when 

required. 

Crab,  Oyster  and  Clam  Forcemeats. 

Use  the  same  method  as  for  lobster,  only  substituting  them 
for  the  lobster. 

Sausage  Forcemeat. 

Quarter-teaspoonful  salt,  half-teaspoonful  pepper,  one  salt- 
spoonful  grated  nutmeg,  one  saltspoonful  powdered  thyme,  two 
pounds  of  fresh  pork  or  sausage  minced  fine.  Mix  all  well 
together. 


N.  B. — For  sauces  mentioned  in  these  formulas  see  French 
Meat  and  Fish  Sauces. 


FISH. 


Boiled  Fish.— A  thin,  long  fish  is  best  for  boiling.  Draw  a 
cord  through  it,  and  fasten  well  by  drawing  the  cord  very  tight. 
It  will  form  a  letter  S.  Wrap  in  a  cloth  and  sew  very  securely ; 
when  cooked  it  will  retain  its  shape  and  is  very  pretty  to 
look  at.  A  large  fish  should  be  put  in  cold  water  and  a  small 
one  in  boiling  water,  for  the  reason  that  fish  cook  so  quickly, 
and  by  putting  a  large  one  in  boiling  water,  the  outside  would 
be  done  and  the  inside  raw.  To  boil  fish  is  this  way  do  not  have 
it  split  open,  but  drawn  from  the  gills.  When  ready  to  serve 
place  on  a  platter  and  pour  Hollandaise  sauce  around  it,  using  for 
a  garnish  a  sprig  of  parsley  and  slices  of  lemon. 

Baked  Fish. — Clean  thoroughly,  sprinkle  with  salt  an  hour 
before  cooking,  fill  with  dressing  and  sew  securely,  sprinkle  flour 
over  it,  baste  with  butter,  place  in  dripping  pan  in  moderate  oven ; 
allow  one  and  one-half  hours  for  good-sized  fish.  Serve  with 
drawn  butter  sauce.  Garnish  with  sliced  lemon. 

Stuffing  for  Fish. — Mix  with  bread  crumbs,  parsley,  sweet 
majoram,  thyme,  one  large  spoonful  of  butter,  one-half  cupful  of 
fat  pork  chopped  fine,  a  few  oysters,  two  beaten  eggs,  and  salt 
and  pepper. 

Plain  Stuffiing  for  Fish. — Mix  with  bread  crumbs  a  few 
oysters,  a  stick  of  celery,  salt  and  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter. 

Fish  Turbot. — Two  and  one-half  pounds  of  white  fish,  one- 
half  a  bunch  of  thyme,  one  pint  of  milk,  half  a  bunch  of  parsley, 


220  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

four  slices  of  onion.  Place  the  fish  in  cold  water,  and  when  the 
water  has  boiled  two  minutes  the  fish  is  done  ;  remove  from  ket- 
tle and  take  the  bones  out.  Place  the  onion,  parsley,  thyme  and 
milk  in  a  small  dish,  let  it  boil  for  one  hour  by  placing  the  dish 
in  boiling  water,  then  strain  through  a  colander.  Add  the  yolk 
of  one  well-beaten  egg,  one-half  cup  of  butter,  one-half  cup  of 
flour  made  in  a  smooth  paste  with  cold  water,  cook  until  thick, 
place  the  fish  in  dripping  pan  with  alternate  layers  of  the  dress- 
ing ;  have  dressing  on  top,  and  a  heavy  layer  of  rolled  crackers. 
Bake  one  hour.  Serve  garnished  with  sliced  lemon  and  parsley. 
Baked  Halibut. — Take  a  nice  piece  of  halibut,  wash  well 
and  lay  in  dripping  pan,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  sprinkle 


over  the  fish  a  clove  of  white  garlic  about  the  size  of  a  bean, 
chopped  fine,  then  pour  over  a  cup  of  tomatoes.  Bake  in  moder- 
ate oven  ;  when  the  flakes  separate  the  fish  is  done. 

Fried  Brook  Trout.— Clean  the  trout  well,  roll  in  corn-meal, 
have  in  frying  pan  some  hot  butter,  lay  fish  in  and  fry  to  a  nice 
brown  on  both  sides.  Take  up  on  platter,  garnish  with  slices 
_c»f  lemon  and  parsley.  Serve  with  drawn  butter. 

Crimped  Salmon. — Cut  fresh  salmon  into  slices  about  two 
inches  thick,  wash  in  strong  salt  and  water ;  have  salted  water 
boiling  and  plunge  it  in ;  it  will  cook  in  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 
Serve  at  once  with  melted  butter. 

Baked  Fish  with  Tomatoes. — Clean  well,  sprinkle  with  salt 
an  hour  before  cooking.  Rub  flour  over  it,  baste  with  butter, 
put  in  baking  dish,  and  pour  a  can  of  tomatoes  over  it.  Season 
well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  bake. 

Fried  Perch. — Clean  thoroughly  and  dry  them  well,  dip  them 
in  flour  and  fry  in  hot  lard.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper ;  garnish 
jwith  parsley. 

Salted  Shad. — After  the  shad  have  been  scaled,  split  them 
down  the  back,  clean  them,  saving  the  roes,  wash  them  in  plenty 
of  cold  water,  and  lay  them  in  a  wooden  tray  or  tub,  with  fine 


Fish.  221 

salt  sprinkled  thickly  between  the  fish  ;  let  the  fish  stand  in  this  salt 
for  two  days.  Then  drain  and  wipe  the  shad,  again  sprinkle  them 
with  coarse  salt,  and  pack  them  away  in  boxes  or  tubs.  Before 
using  salted  shad,  soak  them  over  night  in  fresh  water,  laying  the 
skin  upward. 

After  salt  shad  has  been  freshened,  it  may  be  baked,  boiled, 
broiled  or  fried. 

Fried  Salt  Mackerel. — Soak  for  thirty  hours  in  at  least  a 
gallon  of  water,  laying  the  flesh  side  down ;  remove  the  head 
and  see  that  the  fish  is  clean ;  melt  a  spoonful  of  butter  in  the 
frying  pan,  and  fry  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes,  taking  care  that  it 
does  not  burn ;  take  out  the  fish,  and  pour  in  the  pan  a  cupful  of 
milk ;  let  it  boil,  and  pour  over  the  fish. 

Broiled  Fish. — Thoroughly  clean  the  fish,  and  if  small  split 
down  the  back.  Fish  of  larger  size  should  be  cut  into  inch  slices. 
Use  a  double  wire  broiler,  well  oiled  with  a  bit  of  suet.  Lay  the 
fish,  with  its  thickest  part  next  the  center  of  the  broiler,  skin  up- 
permost, and  broil  over  a  bed  of  clear  coals  until  the  flesh  side  is 
of  an  even  brown.  The  time  required  will  vary,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  fish,  from  five  to  twenty  minutes ;  then  turn  and 
brown  on  the  other  side.  If  the  fish  be  very  thick,  when  both 
sides  are  browned,  put  the  broiler  in  the  oven  over  a  dripping 
pan,  and  cook  until  done. 

Shad  Roe  with  Oysters. — Clean  well,  wash  and  wipe ;  have 
in  frying  pan  some  hot  fat,  place  it  in  and  fry  a  nice  brown  on 
both  sides,  taking  care  not  to  let  burn.  It  will  cook  in  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  take  up  on  a  platter 
and  place  around  it  one  or  two  rows  of  fried  oysters ;  lay  a  sprig 
j)f  parsley  in  the  center  and  slices  of  lemon  ;  the  effect  is  pleasing. 

Halibut  a  la  Creme.— Cut  two  onions  in  one-half  pint  of 
water,  and  add  a  little  mace  and  parsley.  When  thoroughly 
boiled,  add  one  quart  of  milk  or  cream,  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  strain  all  through  a  sieve. 


222  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Take  four  pounds  of  well-boiled  halibut  (or  other  fish),  salted 
while  boiling;  flake  it,  butter  a  good-sized  baking  dish,  and  put 
first  a  layer  of  fish,  then  some  of  the  dressing,  and  so  on  alter- 
nately until  the  dish  is  full.  Put  grated  bread  crumbs  on  the 
top,  and  bake  it  one  hour. 

Codfish  Balls. — Boil  and  pick  your  fish  ;  pare  and  boil  your 
potatoes ;  mix  all  together,  with  two  eggs,  a  lump  of  butter,  and 
a  little  sweet  cream  ;  make  into  balls  and  fry. 

Broiled  Codfish. — Soak  the  codfish  over  night,  let  it  drain  on 
the  iron  in  front  of  the  fire  until  nearly  dry,  broil  it  until  brown 
on  both  sides,  then  put  it  on  a  board  and  beat  it  soft  with  a 
pestle.  Pour  on  boiling  water,  and  after  a  minute  drain  it  off. 
If  very  salt,  pour  on  water  twice.  Butter  and  send  to  the  table. 

New  England  Fish  Chowder.— Take  a  cod  and  a  haddock, 
skin  them  and  take  out  the  bones.  Put  the  heads  and  bones  on 
to  boil  in  about  three  quarts  of  cold  water,  with  a  little  salt. 
Then  cut  the  fish  in  pieces  about  four  or  six  inches  square,  wash 
and  wipe  them  dry,  and  flour  them  a  little.  Cut  about  one- 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  pork  in  thin  slices,  and  fry  them  to  a 
nice  brown.  Cut  up  two  onions  and  fry  them  in  the  pork  fat, 
but  be  careful  not  to  burn  them  or  have  them  too  brown.  Take 
out  the  onions  and  pork;  have  ready  six  potatoes  cut  in  thin 
slices;  put  a  layer  of  fish  into  a  pot  (having  the  pork  at  the 
bottom),  with  a  little  fried  onion,  potatoes,  pepper  and  salt, 
dredge  in  a  little  flour,  and  so  on  until  all  is  in.  Then  strain  the 
water  that  the  heads  and  bones  have  been  boiling  in,  through  a 
colander,  over  the  fish.  If  not  enough  to  cover  the  fish,  add  hot 
water.  Split  six  crackers,  dip  them  in  cold  water  quickly,  and 
put  them  over  the  top.  Set  it  on  the  fire  and  boil  thirty  minutes. 
Add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  two  spoonfuls  of  flour 
rubbed  together,  and  a  glass  of  white  wine  if  you  like.  Let  it 
boil  a  few  minutes.  Just  before  dishing,  add  one  quart  of  cream 
or  milk ;  give  it  one  boil,  and  it  is  ready  for  the  table. 


Fish  from  French  and  Italian   Chefs.  223 

To  Boil  Fresh  Salmon. — Scale  and  clean  the  fish.  Place  it 
on  the  strainer  of  a  large  fish  kettle,  and  fill  up  with  cold  water; 
throw  in  a  handful  of  salt ;  let  it  boil  slowly  (the  length  of  time 
depending  upon  the  size  and  weight  of  the  fish ;  you  may  allow 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  each  pound).  It  must  be  thoroughly 
done.  Try  it  with  a  fork;  and  the  minute  it  is  completely 
boiled,  lift  up  the  strainer,  and  rest  it  across  the  top  of  kettle, 
that  it  may  drain.  Send  to  table  on  a  hot  dish,  garnished  with 
curled  parsley.  To  be  eaten  with  drawn  butter. 


FROM  FRENCH  AND  ITALIAN  CHEFS. 

Breaded  Fish. — First  clean  the  fish  and  dry  it.  Dip  in  milk, 
then  in  flour,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  or  butter;  or  dip  in  beaten  eggs 
and  freshly  grated  crumbs  of  bread,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  or  butter. 

For  Breaded  Oysters,  Clams  or  other  Shell-Fish. — Im- 
merse in  milk,  then  in  cracker  dust,  then  in  flour,  and  fry  in  hot 
fat  or  butter. 

Trout  and  Fish  Sauce. — Clean  six  fine  trout,  weighing  about 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  each.  Place  them  on  a  grate  in  a  fish 
kettle,  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  adding  one  sliced  carrot,  one  sprig  of 
thyme  and  two  bay  leaves.  Moisten  with  half  a  glassful  of  white 
wine  and  half  a  pint  of  water.  Put  it  on  the  stove,  and  let  it 
simmer  gently  for  five  minutes  after  boiling  point ;  then  drain, 
and  serve  on  a  dish  garnished  with  parsley.  Send  it  to  the 
table  with  a  pint  of  fish  sauce  in  a  separate  bowl,  also  some 
boiled  potatoes  cut  in  quarters. 

Salmon,  Oyster  Sauce.— Place  two  pounds  of  very  fresh 
salmon  in  a  fish  kettle,  completely  cover  with  cold  water,  season 
with  a  handful  of  salt,  add  one  medium-sized  sliced  onion,  half 
a  wineglassful  of  white  vinegar,  eight  whole  peppers,  two  cloves 


224  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

and  two  parsley  roots.  Range  the  kettle  on  a  brisk  fire.  Five 
minutes  after  coming  to  a  boil  the  salmon  will  be  sufficiently 
cooked.  Remove  from  the  kettle,  drain  it  well ;  dress  on  a  hot 
dish  nicely  decorated  with  parsley  greens  and  lemon  around  the 
salmon,  and  serve  with  a  pint  of  hot  oyster  sauce  (see  page  205) 
in  separate  bowl. 

Trout  with  Cooked  Herbs. — Select  six  or  eight  nice  small 
trout.  Put  in  buttered  fish  pan;  add  a  half- glassful  of  white 
wine  and  one  finely  chopped  shallot.  Cook  for  about  ten  min- 
utes ;  drain  off  the  gravy  into  another  vessel,  add  two  cupfuls  of 
Spanish  sauce  (see  page  210),  two  tablespoonfuls  cooked  herbs 
(see  page  207);  reduce  this  down  nearly  one-half,  pour  over  the 
fish,  and  server  with  lemon  and  parsley  greens. 

How  to  Blanch  Codfish  Tongues.— Twelve  fresh  tongues 
washed  well  in  cold  water,  one  bouquet  of  herbs,  four  cloves, 
eight  whole  peppers,  one  small-sized  onion,  half  small  lemon 
sliced,  three  or  four  teaspoonfuls  of  salt.  After  washing  the 
tongues,  take  from  water  and  put  in  pan.  Cover  with  fresh  cold 
water,  add  in  the  above  ingredients,  and  allow  to  come  to  a  good 
boil,  then  transfer  with  the  water  into  stone  crocks  for  future  use. 

Fried  Codfish  Tongues. — Take  eighteen  fine  fresh  codfish 
tongues,  wash  them  well,  drain  off  the  water,  dip  them  in  cold 
milk,  and  roll  them,  one  by  one,  in  flour.  Put  four  ounces  of 
clarified  butter  in  the  frying  pan,  heat  it  well,  then  gently  lay  in 
the  tongues  separately,  and  let  cook  for  three  minutes.  Turn 
them  on  the  other  side,  using  a  fork,  and  cook  for  three  minutes 
more.  Lift  them  up  carefully  with  a  skimmer,  and  put  them  in 
a  colander  to  drain.  Season  with  one  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a 
pinch  of  pepper ;  dress  them  on  a  hot  dish  and  decorate  with 
sprigs  of  parsley  and  lemon.  Serve  with  hot  tomato  sauce  (see 
page  21 1). 

Bluefish  a  la  Italienne. — Prepare  two  pounds  of  bluefish; 
place  it  in  a  buttered  pan,  with  half  a  glassful  of  white  wine,  three 


Fish  from  French  and  Italian   Chefs.  22$ 

tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  liquor,  half  of  a  very  finely  chopped 
onion  and  six  chopped-up  mushrooms.  Season  with  a  pinch  of 
salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper.  Cover  the  fish  with  a  buttered 
paper,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  minutes;  take  the 
fish  out,  lay  it  on  a  serving  dish,  and  put  the  juice  in  a  stew  pan, 
adding  four  ounces  of  Universal  sauce  (see  page  208),  with  a 
small  glassful  of  white  wine ;  reduce  for  two  minutes,  then  pour 
it  over  the  fish,  with  one  pinch  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  and 
serve  with  pieces  of  fried  bread  cut  in  squares  or  heart- shapes. 

Bass  a  la  Francaise.— Cut  a  deep  incision  down  the  back  of 
a  nice  sea  bass,  put  it  in  a  baking  dish  with  half -a  glassful  of  red 
wine,  half  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  third  of  a  pinch  of  pepper. 
Besprinkle  with  a  finely  chopped  shallot,  cover  with  a  buttered 
paper,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  Lay 
the  bass  on  a  dish,  put  the  juice  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  cupful 
of  Universal  sauce  (see  page  208),  four  finely  shred  mushrooms, 
and  a  thin  slice  of  finely  chopped  onion ;  finish  cooking  for  five 
minutes  more,  then  pour  it  over  the  fish  and  serve  very  hot. 
This  is  for  a  two  or  three-pound  bass. 

Boiled  Halibut. — Put  a  piece  of  halibut  weighing  two  pounds 
in  a  saucepan,  and  cover  it  with  fresh  water ;  add  one  sliced  onion, 
half  a  sliced  carrot,  and  a  bouquet  of  herbs.  Season  with  a  hand- 
ful of  salt  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Put  on  the  lid  and 
let  cook  gerUy,  but  no  more  than  five  minutes  after  boiling  point ; 
then  lift  up  the  fish  alone,  drain  well ;  dress  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and 
serve  with  any  desired  sauce. 

Halibut  Steaks.— Wash  well  a  piece  of  fresh  halibut,  lay  it  on 
a  dish,  and  season  it  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  oil.  Roll  it  well  and  lay  it  on  a 
double  broiler ;  then  place  it  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  broil  for  eight 
minutes  on  each  side.  Dress  the  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over 
some  nice  fish  sauce,  decorate  with  parsley  greens  and  lemon,  and 
serve.  The  above  is  for  two  or  three  pounds  of  fish. 


226  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Shad  with  Sorrel. — Select  a  two-pound  shad,  clean  well,  then 
letitsteepas  long  as  possible  in  one  tablespoonful  of  oil,  half  a  sliced 
lemon,  a  quarter  of  a  bunch  of  parsley  roots,  and  half  a  sliced 
onion.  When  ready  place  it  in  a  buttered  pan,  with  half  a  glass- 
ful of  white  wine,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  liquor,  also  a 
bouquet  of  herbs.  Take  two  handfuls  of  picked  and  washed 
sorrel,  mince  it  very  fine,  then  put  it  in  the  stew  pan  with  the  fish, 
adding  a  good  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper ;  cover  it, 
and  let  it  cook  as  long  as  possible  on  a  slow  fire — at  least  two 
hours  ;  then  arrange  the  shad  on  a  dish.  Add  a  little  butter  and 
flour  to  the  juice,  thicken  well,  and  pour  the  sauce  in  a  sauce 
bowl,  and  serve  separately. 

Broiled  Fresh  Mackerel,  Maitre  d'H6tel.— Pare  and  split 
two  good-sized  fresh  mackerel  through  the  back,  remove  the 
spine,  score  them  slightly,  and  rub  them  with  one  tablespoonful 
of  sweet  oil ;  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper, 
then  broil  them  on  a  brisk  fire  for  ten  minutes  on  the  split  side 
and  one  minute  on  the  skin  side.  Lay  them  on  a  dish,  pour 
one-half  cupful  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  over,  and  serve  with  a 
few  parsley  greens  and  mix  slices  of  lemon. 

Broiled  Spanish  mackerel  are  prepared  in  the  same  way. 
(See  Maitre  d'Hotel  Butter,  page  212.) 

Shad  a  la  Spanish. — Cleanse  a  small,  fine  shad,  put  it  in 
baking  dish,  well  buttered,  and  season  with  one  pinch  of  salt 
and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  adding  two  finely  chopped  shallots 
and  half  a  glassful  of  white  wine.  Cover  with  a  piece  of  buttered 
paper,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes. 
When  done  put  the  juice  in  a  saucepan,  with  half  a  pint  of 
Spanish  sauce  (seepage  210),  a  pinch  chopped  celery,  and  a  little 
spinach  green.  Let  cook  again  for  three  minutes,  then  pour  a 
little  of  it,  through  a  strainer,  on  the  fish,  and  serve  the  rest  in  a 
separate  sauce  bowl. 


Fis/i  from  French  and  Italian   Chefs.  227 

Bass  with  White  Wine. — Cleanse  a  two  or  three-pound  fish, 
lay  in  a  buttered  baking  dish  ;  season  with  half  a  pinch  of  salt  and 
a  very  small  pinch  of  pepper ;  pour  over  half  a  glassful  of  white 
wine  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  liquor.  Cover  with 
a  piece  of  buttered  paper,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  lay  the  fish  on  a  dish  ;  put  the  juice  in  a  saucepan, 
with  a  cupful  of  Spanish  sauce  (see  page  210)  thicken  well 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  till  well  dissolved,  and  pour  over 
the  bass,  serving  with  small  pieces  of  fried  bread  (shape  bread 
square  or  heart-shaped). 


OYSTERS  AND  OTHER  SHELL-FISH. 


Oysters  on  the  Half-shell. — One  cup  of  thick  cream,  one 
cup  of  hot  water,  one  cup  of  milk,  one  pinch  of  salt  Pour  this 
into  the  saucepan  and  put  the  saucepan  into  a  kettle  of  boiling 
water  until  it  boils ;  then  stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
and  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  made  smooth  with  a  little 
water.  Butter  your  oyster  or  clam  shells  and  lay  a  nice  oyster 
in  each  one.  Arrange  them  close  together  in  a  dripping  pan, 
propping  them  up  with  small  stones,  and  then  fill  each  shell  with 
the  prepared  cream,  having  first  beaten  it  well.  Bake  in  hot 
oven  until  brown — it  will  take  about  five  minutes  ;  serve  in  the 
shell. 

Steamed  Oysters. — Select  nice  oysters,  put  in  round  dish, 
season  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper;  set  in  a  steamer  over  boil- 
ing water,  and  steam  until  they  begin  to  curl. 

Oyster  Patties. — Cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  patty  pans 
with  dough,  the  same  as  for  pie  crust ;  then  put  the  Crust 
over  the  top,  and  pinch  the  edges  together.  Bake  in  quick 
oven.  Take  as  many  oysters  as  you  have  patties,  stew  them  in 
their  own  liquor,  then  cut  them  in  pieces ;  to  a  dozen  oysters 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  rubbed 
smooth  in  a  little  water,  and  a  little  grated  lemon  peel.  Season 
with  a  little  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  a  pinch  of  cayenne 
and  pounded  mace  ;  mix  all  this  well.  Open  the  patties  and  fill 
with  this  mixture ;"  serve  hot. 


Oysters  and  Other  Shell- Fish.  229 

Oyster  Pie. — Line  a  pudding  dish  with  dough,  the  same  as 
for  pie  crust ;  drain  some  oysters  from  their  liquor,  and  put  a 
layer  of  them  in  the  bottom  of  the  pudding  dish,  sprinkle  lightly 
with  flour,  pepper,  salt  and  butter ;  then  another  layer  the  same, 
until  all  are  used,  putting  more  butter  on  the  top  layer.  Pour 
the  liquor  in  and  cover  with  the  crust ;  cut  a  hole  in  center  of  top 
crust.  Set  in  oven  and  bake  until  crust  is  a  delicate  brown. 

Oyster  Stew. — Take  one  quart  of  oysters,  put  the  liquor  in  a 
stew  pan,  let  it  boil  up  and  skim  carefully  ;  put  in  two  quarts  of 
milk,  let  it  come  to  a  boil.  Add  the  oysters  ;  as  soon  as  they  be- 
gin to  curl  up,  take  off  the  fire ;  put  in  one  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter and  salt  to  taste.  Serve  in  hot  soup  dishes. 

Roast  Oysters. — Oysters  for  roasting  should  be  washed  in 
plenty  of  cold  water  to  free  the  shells  from  mud,  and  then  placed 
upon  a  bed  of  hot  coals,  with  the  thick  end,  where  the  shells  are 
united  by  a  joint,  down,  so  that  the  liquor  may  not  all  escape  as 
the  oysters  open  under  the  effect  of  the  heat;  as  fast  as  they 
open,  they  should  be  taken  from  the  fire,  and  sent  at  once  to  the 
table.  An  easy  way  to  prepare  oysters  is  to  arrange  them  in  a 
dripping  pan,  and  place  the  pan  over  the  coals  or  in  a  very  hot 
oven  ;  the  flavor  of  the  oysters  so  cooked  is  good,  and  much  of 
the  difficulty  of  handling  them  is  obviated.  Still  another  method 
is  to  make  the  deep  shells  of  oysters  very  hot  in  a  pan  in  a  hot 
oven,  then  put  an  oyster  in  each  shell  with  a  very  little  butter, 
and  replace  the  pan  in  the  oven  for  one  minute ;  this  will  curl 
the  edges  of  the  oysters,  and  they  can  then  be  transferred,  in  the 
shells,  to  a  platter,  and  sent  to  the  table. 

Scalloped  Oyster  Pie. — Pulverize  crackers,  and  mix  with  them 
sufficient  butter  to  make  the  whole  adhesive.  Roll  it  out  and  put 
it  in  a  deep  dish.  Dry  the  oysters,  and  put  a  thick  layer  on  the 
crust,  adding  pepper,  salt  and  small  pieces  of  butter.  Then  roll 
out  another  piece  and  cover  the  oysters,  and  so  on  until  the  dish 
is  full.  Bake  it  carefully. 


230  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Scalloped  Oysters. — For  a  five-quart  pan,  take  two  quarts  of 
oysters  and  one  pound  of  small  butter  crackers  rolled  fine.  Put 
a  thick  layer  of  cracker  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Take  the 
oysters  upon  a  fork  and  cover  the  cracker  with  them,  then  cut  a 
piece  of  butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg  into  small  bits  and  place 
them  around  upon  the  oysters,  sprinkling  a  little  salt  (not  more 
than  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful),  with  a  little  pepper,  overall.  Re- 
peat this  until  all  the  oysters  and  cracker  are  used,  putting  a 
layer  of  cracker  upon  the  top.  Pour  upon  the  whole  cream  or 
milk,  until  you  can  just  see  it  around  the  edge  of  the  pan.  Bake 
it  in  a  slow  oven  for  one  hour  and  a  half  or  two  hours.  When 
thoroughly  heated  put  a  little  more  butter  upon  the  top,  to 
make  them  brown  nicely. 

Steamed  Oysters. — Place  large  oysters  in  a  colander,  to  drain 
most  of  the  juice.  Then  put  them  in  a  pan,  with  a  generous  bit 
of  butter,  cover  the  pan  tightly  and  steam  over  the  fire,  shaking 
the  pan  occasionally.  Have  ready  some  hot  buttered  toast,  and 
when  the  oysters  look  white  and  plump,  turn  them  on  the  toast, 
and  send  immediately  to  the  table. 

Fricasseed  Oysters. — Toast  about  one  dozen  crackers  after 
splitting  them  open.  Lay  them  in  a  deep  dish  or  on  a  platter, 
and  turn  over  them  the  following  mixture :  Take  one  cup  of 
sweet  cream,  put  it  into  a  stew  pan,  also  butter  of  the  size  of  an 
egg;  thicken  with  a  small  dessertspoonful  of  flour  mixed  with  a 
little  milk.  As  soon  as  it  is  scalding  hot,  put  into  it  one  pint  of 
oysters.  Let  it  just  come  to  a  boil,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  turn  it  over  the  crackers. 

To  Fry  Oysters. — Get  the  largest  and  finest  oysters.  After 
separating  them  from  the  liquor,  wipe  them  quite  dry  with  a 
cloth.  Then  beat  up  yolk  of  egg  and  milk  in  the  proportion  of 
two  yolks  to  a  wineglass  of  milk.  Grate  stale  bread  or  crackers 
very  fine ;  dip  the  oysters  in  the  mixture  of  egg  and  milk ;  then 
roll  them  in  the  grated  bread  crumbs,  put  them  into  the  frying 


Oysters  and  Other  Shell-Fish.  231 

pan  of  hot  butter,  and  fry  them  brown,  turning  them  on  both 
sides.     They  must  be  crisp,  not  greasy.     Serve  on  a  hot  dish. 

Lobster  Croquettes— American  Formula. — Take  the  meat 
and  fat  of  a  tender  fresh  lobster,  chop  it  very  fine,  add  salt, 
pepper,  mace  and  butter.  To  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  boiled 
cream,  stir  in  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour ;  add  this  to  the  lobster,  shape  the  croquettes, 
dip  them  in  yolk  of  egg  and  rolled  cracker,  fry  in  butter  to  a  light 
brown,  and  serve  hot 

Scalloped  Lobster. — Butter  a  deep  baking  dish,  put  in  it  a 
layer  of  lobster  meat  picked  in  small  pieces  ;  dust  over  it  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  add  a  little  lemon  juice ;  on  this  sprinkle  a  layer 
of  fine  bread  crumbs,  with  here  and  there  a  lump  of  butter,  then 
another  layer  of  lobster,  then  the  bread  and  seasonings  ;  continue 
this  until  all  is  used,  having  bread  crumbs  for  the  top  layer ;  pour 
a  pint  of  cream  or  milk  over  it  and  bake  thirty  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Potted  Shrimps.  —Put  a  pint  of  picked  shrimps  into  a  stew 
pan  with  one-half  cup  of  butter,  a  blade  of  pounded  mace,  a  pinch 
of  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste ;  simmer  fifteen  minutes,  take  up 
into  pots,  let  it  cool,  and  cover  with  melted  butter. 

Buttered  Shrimps. — Take  one  pint  of  shrimps  picked  clean 
from  their  shells ;  put  them  in  one  and  one-half  cups  of  cream 
sauce  and  simmer  for  two  minutes ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Fried  Clams. — Prepare  a  plate  of  rolled  crackers,  also  a  bowl 
of  well-beaten  raw  eggs ;  then  wash  thoroughly  in  cold  water  a 
pint  of  soft  clams,  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  dry ;  have  on  the  stove 
a  frying  kettle  half  full  of  fat ;  roll  the  clams  in  the  crackers,  then 
dip  them  in  the  egg,  then  roll  again  in  the  crackers,  and  when 
the  fat  is  smoking  hot  drop  the  clams  into  it  and  fry  until  they 
are  a  nice  brown ;  to  free  them  from  the  grease  lay  them  on  a 
blotting  pad  or  brown  paper ;  serve  them  hot. 

Clam  Pie. — Three  pints  of  clams  ;  if  very  large  cut  them  in 
two ;  boil  up  in  their  own  liquor.  Boil  three  large  potatoes,  and 


232  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

when  cold  cut  in  small  pieces.  Around  the  sides  of  the  baking 
dish  put  pie  crust  and  then  alternate  layers  of  the  clams  and 
potatoes,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  butter  and  a  light  dust  of 
flour ;  place  an  inverted  tea  cup  in  the  middle  of  the  dish,  push- 
ing the  mixture  aside  for  the  purpose  ;  pour  the  liquor  over,  and 
if  it  seems  too  dry  pour  a  little  hot  water  over  it ;  cover  with 
crust,  cut  a  hole  in  the  crust,  place  in  oven  and  bake  nearly  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 

Clam  Fritters. — Carefully  wash  all  sand  away  from  a  bunch 
or  pint  of  clams,  and  chop  them  very  fine ;  strain  the  water  in 
which  they  were  washed  ;  have  ready  over  the'  fire  a  frying  ket- 
tle half  full  of  fat;  mix  together  a  cupful  of  flour,  the  chopped 
clams,  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  enough  of  the  water  in 
which  the  clams  were  washed  to  make  a  thick  batter ;  when  the 
fat  is  hot,  beat  the  white  of  one  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  it  into  the 
fritter  mixture,  drop  it  by  the  tablespoonful  into  the  fat  when  it 
is  smoking  hot,  and  fry  the  fritters;  when  they  are  brown  take 
them  out  of  the  fat  with  a  skimmer,  lay  them  on  brown  paper  for 
a  moment  to  free  them  from  grease,  and  then  serve  them  hot. 

Clam  Chowder. — Wash  the  clams,  put  them  into  a  pan,  turn 
boiling  water  over  them,  and  cover  them  tight  Let  them  stand 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  Then  take  out  all  the  clams,  cut  off  the 
black  heads,  flour  them  and  season  with  a  little  nutmeg,  mace, 
pepper  and  salt  Take  three  quarts  of  the  liquor,  and  put  it  into 
a  saucepan  to  boil.  To  one-half  pound  of  butter  rub  well  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  stir  it  into  the  liquor.  Put  in  the 
clams  and  let  them  boil  fifteen  minutes.  If  you  like,  add  one  pint 
of  cream  or  milk. 

Stewed  Clams. — Take  twenty-five  large  sand  clams  from  their 
shells  and  add  to  them  equal  parts  of  their  own  liquor  and  water, 
enough  to  nearly  cover  them ;  put  them  in  stew  pan  and  cook 
for  a  half-hour  over  a  slow  fire ;  as  the  scum  rises  skim  it  off; 


Oysters  and  Other  Shell -Fish.  233 

rub  together  one-half  cup  of  butter  and  one-half  tablespoonful  of 
flour  and  stir  into  it,  and  a  pinch  of  pepper  ;  cover  and  let  them 
simmer  about  fifteen  minutes  longer ;  then  serve.  Pour  over 
toast  if  you  wish.  They  will  be  nicer  by  substituting  milk  for  the 
water. 


FROM  FRENCH  AND  ITALIAN  CHEFS. 

Stuffed  Clams  a  la  Franchise. —  Fill  six  or  twelve  clam 
shells  with  clam  forcemeat  (see  page  218),  flatten  the  meat 
with  the  hands,  moisten  with  a  little  clarified  butter,  sprinkle 
fresh  bread  crumbs  over  same,  smooth  the  surface,  place  them 
in  a  baking  pan  and  bake  for  six  or  eight  minutes.  Serve  on 
hot  dish  with  a  little  lemon  and  parsley  greens. 

Broiled  Clams  a  la  Italienne. — Dip  your  freshly  opened 
clams  in  half  bread  and  half  cracker  dust,  smooth  with  the  hands, 
then  broil  them  in  butter  for  nearly  three  minutes  on  each  side, 
season  to  suit  the  taste,  and  serve  on  toast.  Glaze  them  on 
top  sparingly  with  maitre  d'hotel  sauce  (see  page  200). 

Broiled  Oysters. — Dip  your  fresh  oysters  into  half  bread 
and  half  cracker  dust,  smooth  with  hands,  broil  in  butter  for 
nearly  two  and  one-half  minutes  on  each  side ;  season  to  suit  the 
taste  and  serve  on  toast.  Glaze  oysters  sparingly  with  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  (see  page  212). 

Oysters  a  la  Francaise. — Blanch  some  fresh  oysters  in  their 
own  juice  by  boiling  them  for  two  minutes ;  strain  off  juice. 
Spread  some  chicken  forcemeat  (see  page  217);  place  them 
in  a  pan.  Put  on  each  oyster  some  crumbs  dipped  in  egg,  and 
fry  with  butter  or  lard  for  about  three  minutes.  Take  out  and 
serve  with  lemon  and  parsley  or  other  greens. 

Oysters  a  la  Napoleon. — Chop  an  onion  very  fine ;  place  it 
in  a  stew  pan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  let  it  get  a 


234  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

golden  brown  ;  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  cooked  finely  minced 
spinach,  also  a  small  glassful  of  white  wine.  Have  twenty 
medium-sized  oysters  chopped  exceedingly  small  and  seasoned 
with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  the  same  of  pepper ;  place  these  in  the 
stew  pan  and  let  cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  Put  in  one  whole  egg ; 
then  take  six  large,  clean  oyster  shells ;  fill  the  bottoms  with  a 
bed  of  three  parboiled  oysters,  cover  them  with  the  spinach 
mixture,  and  besprinkle  with  fresh  bread  crumbs.  Flatten  the 
tops  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  pour  a  very  little  clarified  butter 
over,  and  put  them  for  three  minutes  in  the  oven.  Serve  hot, 
garnishing  with  parsley  leaves. 

Fried  Soft-shelled  Crabs.— Procure  good-sized  soft-shelled 
crabs,  cleanse  and  wash  them  thoroughly,  dip  each  one  in  flour, 
then  in  beaten  egg,  and  finally  in  bread  crumbs  or  pulverized 
crackers,  using  them  very  lightly.  Fry  in  very  hot  fat  for  five 
minutes,  drain,  season  with  one  pinch  of  salt  evenly  divided,  and 
serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  lemon  and  fried  parsley  around. 

Broiled  Soft-shelled  Crabs. — Have  nice-sized  fresh  soft- 
shelled  crabs,  cleanse  and  wash  them  well,  then  drain  them,  oil 
them  slightly,  and  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of 
pepper.  Put  them  on  the  broiler  and  broil  for  five  minutes  ;>n 
each  side.  Have  pieces  of  toast  ready,  lay  a  crab  on  top  of  eajh, 
slightly  glaze  them  with  a  little  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  and  serve 
hot. 

Crabs  a  la  American. — Select  one  dozen  hard-shelled  crabs 
that  have  been  boiled,  and  pick  the  meat  in  as  large  pieces  as 
possible ;  place  the  meat  in  a  bowl  and  add  the  following  :    One- 
half  cupful  of  finely  shredded  lettuce  leaves,  one  pinch  of  salt, 
half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil,  and  one  and 
a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.     Refill  six   well-cleaned   shells 
with  the  salad,  and  on  each  one  lay  a  good  teaspoonful  of  Mayon 
naise    sauce    (see    page    209)   sprinkled    over   with  one    hard 
boiled  finely  chopped  egg,  the  yolk  and  white   separated,  som» 


Shell- Fish  from  French  and  Italian   Chefs.  235 

crab  or  lobster  coral,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
Serve  with  parsley  greens  and  lemon. 

Lobster  a  la  Cleveland. — Split  two  fine  good-sized  freshly 
boiled  lobsters ;  remove  all  the  meat  carefully,  then  cut  it  up  into 
pieces  one  inch  in  length.  Have  a  pan  on  the  hot  range  with 
half  a  gill  of  good  olive  oil,  and  when  the  oil  is  very  hot  add  the 
pieces  of  lobster.  Chop  very  fine  one  medium- sized  peeled 
onion,  one  fine  sound  green  pepper  and  half  a  clove  of  peeled 
very  sound  garlic ;  add  all  to  the  lobster  and  let  cook  for  five 
minutes,  gently  mixing  meanwhile.  Season  with  a  pinch  of  salt 
and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  red  pepper,  adding  also  half  a  wine- 
glassful  of  good  white  wine.  Reduce  for  two  minutes,  then  add 
one  gill  of  tomato  sauce  and  one  medium-sized  sound  red 
peeled  tomato,  cut  into  small  dice-shaped  pieces.  Cook  for  ten 
minutes  longer,  gently  shuffling  meanwhile.  Pour  the  whole  into 
a  very  hot  deep  dish  and  serve. 

Lobster  a  la  Marseilles. — Add  to  one  glassful  of  red  wine 
in  a  stew  pan  one  chopped  shallot,  and  half  of  a  small  carrot  cut 
into  exceedingly  small  pieces.  Boil  for  five  minutes,  and  then 
put  in  pieces  of  boiled  lobster,  the  same  quantity  as  for  the  above 
(about  a  pound  and  a  half),  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  third  of  a  pinch 
of  pepper  and  a  very  little  nutmeg,  also  about  one  cupful  of  lob- 
ster sauce  ;  stew  well  together  for  about  five  minutes  and  serve. 

Lobster  with  Curry.— Pick  out  all  the  meat  from  two  good- 
sized  fine  freshly  boiled  and  split  lobsters.  Cut  the  meat  up 
in  one-inch-length  equal  pieces.  Have  a  saucepan  on  the  hot 
range  with  an  ounce  of  very  good  butter  ;  add  the  lobster  to  it, 
and  let  cook  for  five  minutes.  Season  with  one  pinch  of  salt  and 
half  a  pinch  of  pepper.  Place  in  a  bowl  one  tablespoonful  of 
Indian  curry,  with  half  a  wineglassful  of  good  white  wine,  mix 
well  together,  then  pour  it  into  the  lobster.  Cook  for  two  minutes. 
Add  two  gills  of  hot  Spanish  sauce,  shuffle  briskly  for  one  minute 
longer.  Make  a  border  of  fresh-boiled  rice  all  around  the  hot  dish ; 


236  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

dress  the  lobster  right  in  the  center  of  the  dish  and  serve  hot. 
(See  Spanish  sauce,  page  210.) 

Broiled  Lobster. — Cut  three  small  raw  lobsters  into  two  equal 
parts,  taking  out  the  gravel  from  the  head ;  season  with  one 
pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  rub  with  a  very  lit- 
tle oil ;  then  broil  the  pieces  for  ten  minutes.  Take  them  from 
the  fire,  and  remove  the  meat  from  the  head  of  the  lobsters  and 
put  it  in  a  salad  bowl  with  some  melted  butter,  and  mix  well 
together ;  take  the  meat  from  the  balance  of  the  lobster,  dip  it 
in  the  sauce,  and  return  it  to  its  shell ;  warm  again  for  two  min- 
utes in  the  oven  and  take  out.  Garnish  the  shells  with  parsley 
greens  and  lemon,  and  serve  with  a  sauce. 

Stuffed  Lobster.— Fill  the  empty  lobster  tails  with  lobster 
forcemeat  (see  page  218),  roll  them  in  bread  crumbs,  put  them  on 
a  baking  dish,  smoothing  the  surface  with  a  knife;  place  them  in 
a  baking  pan.  Pour  a  little  clarified  butter  over,  and  brown  gently 
in  the  oven  for  six  minutes,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  parsley 
greens  and  lemon. 


The  formulas  for  preparing  all  kinds  of  game,  poultry  and 
meats  have  been  carefully  selected  from  the  leading  American, 
French  and  Italian  chefs.  All  the  sauces,  butters,  herbs  and 
garnishes  mentioned  in  this  book  can  be  found  in  Sauces,  pages 
199-212. 

How  to  Boil  Terrapin.— Terrapin  should  be  alive  when 
brought  from  the  market.  Wash  them  by  putting  them  for  half 
an  hour  into  a  tub  or  large  pan  half  filled  with  clean  cold  water; 
have  over  the  fire  a  large  pot  half  full  of  boiling  water  ;  plunge 
the  terrapin  into  this  head  first,  grasping  them  from  the  back  to 
avoid  the  possibility  of  a  bite  ;  let  the  terrapin  boil  from  five  to 
ten  minutes,  or  until  the  skin  of  the  claws  or  leg  can  be  rubbed 
off  with  a  wet  cloth ;  after  this  outer  skin  is  removed,  put  the 
terrapin  again  over  the  fire  in  sufficient  clean  boiling  water  to 
cover  them,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each  quart  of  water,  and 
boil  them  gently  until  the  shells  begin  to  separate  at  the  sides ; 
the  length  of  time  will  vary.  The  shells  are  joined  at  each  side, 
between  the  fore  and  hind  claws  or  legs,  with  small  serrated 
points,  which  part  slightly  when  the  terrapin  are  tender ;  some- 
times they  are  tender  in  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  but  often  a 
longer  time  is  required  for  'boiling.  When  the  shells  of  the 
terrapin  can  be  parted,  take  them  from  the  boiling  water,  and  let 
them  cool  until  they  can  be  dressed. 

How  to  Dress  Terrapin. — Loosen  the  sides  of  the  shells  of 
boiled  terrapin  as  soon  as  they  are  cool  enough  to  handle  ;  lift  off 


238  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

the  top  shell,  which  is  held  to  the  spine  of  the  terrapin  by  small 
bands  of  flesh  ;  these  are  to  be  pulled  or  cut  apart ;  then  remove 
the  under  shell.  The  entrails  of  the  terrapin  lie  in  a  mass,  with 
the  eggs  and  liver  embedded  in  them,  and  the  legs  are  attached 
to  them  by  crossing  bands  of  flesh  ;  pull  off  the  legs,  leaving  the 
flesh  attached  to  them,  break  off  the  sharp  claws  at  the  extremi- 
ties of  the  feet;  separate  and  throw  away  the  head,  and  put  the 
legs  on  a  dish  ;  carefully  remove  all  the  eggs,  and  put  them  into 
a  bowl  of  hot  water ;  separate  the  liver  from  the  entrails,  and  cut 
out  that  part  of  the  liver  which  contains  the  small  dark  green 
gall-bag  that  can  be  seen  at  one  side  of  the  liver.  The  utmost 
care  should  be  taken  to  avoid  cutting  or  breaking  the  gall-bag ; 
in  removing  it,  the  liver  should  be  held  over  an  empty  dish,  and, 
if  the  gall-bag  is  cut  or  broken,  the  liver  should  be  thrown  away, 
and  the  hands  washed  before  the  dressing  of  the  terrapin  is  re- 
sumed. After  the  gall-bag  is  removed,  cut  the  liver  in  pieces 
about  half  an  inch  square,  and  put  it  with  the  flesh  of  the  terrapin. 
Only  the  flesh,  eggs  and  liver  of  terrapin  are  ordinarily  used ; 
old  Southern  cooks  sometimes  scalded  and  scraped  the  intestines, 
and  added  them  to  terrapin  stew. 

Stewed  Terrapin  with  Cream. — For  a  pint  of  terrapin-meat, 
use  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  one  of  dry  flour; 
stir  them  over  the  fire  in  a  thick  saucepan  until  they  bubble ; 
then  gradually  stir  in  a  pint  of  cream,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  each  of  white  pepper  and  grated  nut- 
meg, and  a  dust  of  cayenne  ;  next  put  the  terrapin  into  the  sauce 
and  stir  it  until  it  is  scalding  hot ;  draw  the  saucepan  to  the  side 
of  the  fire,  where  its  contents  will  not  boil,  and  stir  in  the  yolks 
of  four  raw  eggs  previously  beaten  smooth ;  do  not  allow  the 
terrapin  to  boil  after  adding  the  eggs,  but  pour  it  at  once  into  a 
tureen  containing  a  gill  of  good  madeira  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  and  serve  it. 

Terrapin  a  la  Maryland.— Cut  up  two  terrapins ;  place  them 


Game,  Frogs  and  Terrapin.  239 

in  a  saucepan  with  Haifa  wineglassful  of  good  madeira  wine,  half 
a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  very  little  cayenne  pepper,  also  an  ounce 
of  good  butter.  Mix  well  a  cupful  of  good  sweet  cream  with  the 
yolks  of  three  boiled  eggs,  and  add  it  to  the  terrapin,  briskly 
stirring  constantly,  while  thoroughly  beating,  but  without  letting 
it  come  to  a  boil.  Pour  into  a  hot  bowl  and  serve  very  hot 

Frogs. — The  hind  legs  are  the  only  part  used  ;  skin  and  wash 
them,  roll  them  in  cracker  dust,  then  in  beaten  eggs,  then  again 
in  cracker  dust.  Have  in  frying  pan  some  hot  butter,  lay  them 
in  and  fry  a  golden  brown ;  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon  and 
sprigs  of  parsley. 

Green  Turtle  Fried. — Cut  thin  slices  of  tender  uncooked 
turtle  flesh,  or  of  cold  cooked  turtle  ;  roll  them  in  cracker  crumbs, 
then  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  and  again  roll  them  in  crumbs; 
have  ready  over  the  fire  a  frying  pan  containing  about  half  an 
inch  of  butter  melted,  and  when  it  begins  to  smoke  put  in  the 
slices  of  turtle  and  fry  them  light  brown ;  when  the  slices  are 
fried,  lay  them  on  brown  paper  in  a  dripping  pan  to  free  them 
from  grease,  and  keep  them  hot  in  the  oven  until  the  sauce  is 
made  as  follows  :  Pour  nearly  all  the  butter  out  of  the  frying  pan  ; 
stir  in  half  a  pint  of  cream,  half  a  pint  of  mild  tomato  catsup,  and 
enough  flour  or  cracker  crumbs  to  make  a  sauce  of  the  proper 
consistency ;  let  it  boil  for  two  or  three  minutes  while  the  fried 
turtle  is  being  dished  with  a  garnish  of  sliced  lemon  or  fresh 
watercresses ;  then  pour  the  sauce  into  a  bowl,  and  serve  the 
dish.  Any  other  well-seasoned  sauce  may  be  used  with  fried 
turtle. 

Tender  turtle  steaks  are  very  good  broiled,  and  served  with 
any  acid  jelly. 

To  Prepare  Frogs'  Legs.— The  hind-legs  of  large  frogs  are 
the  only  parts  used  ;  the  bodies  are  separated  in  the  middle,  and 
the  legs  are  skinned.  The  flesh  of  the  legs  is  white,  very  tender, 
and  somewhat  resembles  that  of  poultry.  After  the  frogs'  legs 


240  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

are  skinned,  wash  them  well  in  cold  water,  put  them  over  the  fire 
in  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  them  for  five  minutes ;  then 
throw  them  into  cold  water  to  cool.  This  process  is  called 
blanching,  and  must  always  be  done  if  the  flavor  is  to  be  con- 
sidered. After  the  frogs'  legs  are  blanched,  they  may  be  fried  or 
broiled  according  to  any  of  the  recipes  for  frying  or  broiling  fish, 
or  stewed  in  a  white  broth. 

Broiled  Frogs. — Select  eighteen  good-sized  fine  frogs'  legs, 
peel  off  the  claws,  then  lay  the  legs  on  a  dish  and  pour  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sweet  oil  over,  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  pinch 
of  pepper,  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  fresh  lemon.  Roll  them 
around  several  times  in  their  seasoning,  then  place  them  nicely 
on  the  broiler  and  broil  them  for  four  minutes  on  each  side. 
Take  them  off  and  dress  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pouring  a  gill  of 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  over  (see  page  2 1 2),  and  send  to  the  table 
immediately. 

Squirrels  Stewed.— Skin,  clean  thoroughly,  wash  in  cold 
water  and  wipe  quickly  two  nice  fat  squirrels.  Cut  them  in 
quarters,  put  in  frying  pan  a  layer  of  salt  pork  cut  thin,  then 
lay  the  squirrels  in,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper;  if  necessary, 
put  in  a  little  butter;  add  enough  hot  water  to  prevent  burning; 
cover  and  cook  slowly  until  the  squirrels  are  tender.  When 
nearly  done,  remove  the  cover,  so  the  water  will  boil  away.  Add 
enough  cream  or  milk  to  moisten  them,  let  them  heat  again  and 
serve  hot. 

Squirrel  Pie. — Select  two  fresh  squirrels;  skin,  clean  and 
wipe  off  thoroughly  with  a  damp  cloth;  cut  into  small  pieces; 
put  into  stew  pan  with  two  slices  of  salt  pork,  with  water  enough 
to  nearly  cover.  Cook  until  half  done,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper ;  rub  together  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  in  to  thicken  the  gravy ;  pour  into  a 
deep  bake  dish  and  cover  with  pie  crust.  Bake  half  an  hour. 
Squirrels  may  be  fried,  broiled  or  stewed,  the  same  as  chicken. 


Game,  Frogs  and  Terrapin.  241 

Stewed  RabMts. — Select  two  nice  fresh  rabbits ;  skin,  clean 
well  and  cut  in  small  pieces ;  let  it  lay  in  salted  cold  water  one  hour; 
then  put  in  stew  kettle,  covering  with  cold  water ;  place  on  the 
stove  and  boil  until  tender.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Rub 
smooth  together  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter,  and  stir  into  the  gravy.  A  little  lemon  juice  is  an 
improvement.  Serve  all  together  on  a  platter. 

Fried  Rabbit. — Skin,  clean,  wash  and  wipe  dry.  Roll  in 
flour  and  fry  in  hot  butter.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  If  the 
rabbit  is  not  tender,  parboil  for  half  an  hour  first. 

Opossum. — Clean  thoroughly  and  scrape  it.  Mix  together 
some  bread  crumbs,  chopped  onion,  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  and 
the  liver  chopped  fine  and  a  beaten  egg.  Stuff  the  body  with 
this  mixture.  Sew  it  up  and  roast  it.  Baste  often  with  salt  and 
water  to  have  it  crisp.  Dip  a  cloth  in  its  own  grease  and  rub  it 
well.  When  done  take  up  on  platter  and  garnish  with  sprigs 
of  parsley  and  sliced  lemon,  and  put  a  baked  apple  in  its  mouth. 

Seasoning  for  Venison. — Take  bread,  and  add  a  little  chopped 
pork  and  onions,  a  little  cloves,  mace,  pepper,  salt  and  thyme. 
Wet  it  with  wine  and  the  white  of  egg.  When  the  gravy  is 
made  add  more  wine. 

Venison  Steaks. — Heat  and  grease  the  bars  of  a  broiler,  hav- 
ing a  bright  fire  with  live  coals  at  the  top;  lay  the  steak  on 
broiler  and  turn  often,  so  as  not  to  burn;  when  done  place  on  hot 
platter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  lay  bits  of  butter  over  it ;  cover 
and  set  in  oven  for  five  minutes.  Serve  with  a  bit  of  jelly  on  each 
piece.  Be  sure  the  plates  are  warm,  as  venison  cools  quickly. 

Roast  Venison. — Wipe  off  with  a  damp  cloth  the  haunch  of 
a  venison.  Rub  over  with  butter,  make  a  thick  paste  of  flour 
and  water,  and  cover  the  top  and  sides  half  an  inch  deep ;  lay  a 
heavy  paper  over  it,  and  place  in  dripping  pan  having  a  cup  of 
water  in  it.  Set  in  a  well-heated  oven,  baste  every  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes  with  butter  and  water.  Half  an  hour  before 


242  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

serving  remove  the  paper  and  paste,  and  sprinkle  with  flour  and 
baste  with  butter  until  it  is  a  nice  brown.  Take  up  on  platter. 
Pour  in  dripping  pan  one  pint  of  water,  add  a  pinch  of  cloves, 
nutmeg,  cayenne,  a  few  blades  of  mace ;  thicken  with  flour  and 
water.  Strain  before  sending  to  table.  Serve  currant  jelly  with 
the  roast. 

Stewed  or  Potted  Pigeons. — Carefully  pluck  half  a  dozen 
pigeons ;  singe  them,  wipe  them  with  a  wet  towel,  and  cut  off 
the  head  and  feet ;  in  drawing  them  take  care  not  to  break  the 
entrails,  and  save  the  hearts,  livers  and  gizzards  ;  put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  let  it  get  smoking  hot,  then 
put  in  the  pigeons  and  brown  them ;  when  they  are  brown,  dust 
over  them  a  tablespoonful  of  dry  flour,  and  move  them  about 
until  the  flour  is  brown;  then  cover  them  with  boiling  water, 
season  them  palatably  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  them 
gently  until  they  are  tender.  Meantime,  shell  enough  very  young 
green  peas  to  fill  a  pint  measure ;  if  the  pods  of  the  peas  are  not 
clean,  wash  them  before  shelling,  but  do  not  wash  the  shelled 
peas.  When  the  pigeons  are  tender,  put  the  peas  with  them, 
and  continue  to  cook  them  until  the  peas  are  just  tender ;  then 
serve  the  pigeons  in  a  deep  platter,  with  the  peas  under  them. 

Squab  Pie. — Make  a  good  pastry  according  to  any  of  the 
recipes  already  given,  and  line  a  deep  earthen  dish  with  it ;  cut 
a  pound  of  the  breast  of  tender  veal  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick, 
after  first  taking  out  the  bones,  and  put  a  layer  of  the  meat 
around  the  sides  and  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish ;  carefully  pluck 
six  squabs,  cut  off  the  heads  and  feet,  singe  and  draw  them,  and 
wipe  them  with  a  wet  towel ;  chop  the  livers  and  gizzards  fine, 
with  an  equal  weight  of  fat  salt  pork  or  bacon ;  add  to  them 
then  an  equal  measure  of  fine  bread  crumbs,  one  raw  egg,  and  a 
palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  use  this  forcemeat  to 
stuff  the  squabs ;  lay  them  in  a  dish  prepared  as  directed  above, 
and  put  over  them  the  rest  of  the  sliced  veal ;  put  over  the  fire 


Game,  Frogs  and  Terrapin.  243 

in  a  frying  pan  a  dessertspoonful  each  of  flour  and  butter,  stir 
them  until  they  are  brown,  then  stir  with  them  a  cupful  and  a 
half  of  boiling  water  and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper; 
when  this  sauce  boils,  pour  it  into  the  squab  pie,  and  cover  the 
pie  with  an  upper  crust  of  pastry,  wetting  the  edges  to  make 
them  adhere ;  cut  several  slits  in  the  upper  crust,  and  brush  it 
over  with  beaten  egg.  Bake  the  pie  for  two  hours  in  a  moderate 
oven,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  burn ;  if  the  crust  browns  too 
quickly,  cover  it  with  buttered  paper  and  moderate  the  heat  of 
the  oven.  Serve  the  pie  hot  or  cold. 

Boiled  Partridge. — Pluck  and  dress  the  birds,  leaving  them 
whole ;  wipe  them  with  a  wet  cloth  ;  put  in  stewpan  and  cover 
with  boiling  water,  with  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt ;  boil  moder- 
ately for  fifteen  minutes;  meanwhile  put  one  coffee  cup  of  cream 
in  saucepan,  set  it  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water ;  add  to  it  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper ; 
stir  one  way  until  the  butter  is  melted  ;  place  it  where  it  will 
keep  warm ;  when  the  partridges  have  cooked  very  tender,  take 
them  up,  wipe  dry,  put  them  on  a  hot  platter,  pour  the  cream 
sauce  over  them;  serve  hot. 

Broiled  Quail. — Clean  and  wipe  with  a  wet  towel  carefully, 
and  divide  down  the  back ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
place  on  a  hot  broiler  over  a  bright  fire  with  coals  on  top  ;  turn 
often,  and  when  tender  lay  on  a  hot  dish ;  butter  well  and  serve 
on  buttered  toast. 

Baked  Prairie  Chicken. — After  cleaning  well,  stuff  them  with 
a  dressing  made  of  bread  or  cracker  crumbs,  one  onion  chopped 
fine,  one  stalk  of  celery  chopped,  salt,  pepper  and  melted  butter  ; 
sew  together,  and  tie  firmly  with  a  string  ;  place  in  a  steamer  and 
steam  until  tender ;  then  take  up  and  put  in  dripping  pan ;  rub 
with  butter,  and  sprinkle  with  flour,  pepper  and  salt ;  set  in  oven 
and  roast  to  a  delicate  brown ;  baste  often  with  melted  butter ; 
take  up  on  platter  and  garnish  with  parsley  and  currant  jelly. 


244  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Broiled  Doe-Birds. — Singe  and  clean  well  five  fine  doe-birds ; 
split  them  through  the  back  without  detaching  the  parts,  and  lay 
them  on  a  dish.  Season  with  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch 
of  pepper,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  oil ;  roll  them  in  well,  and 
broil  for  five  minutes  on  each  side.  Prepare  a  hot  dish  with 
bread  toasts  ;  arrange  the  doe- birds  on  top,  and  serve  with  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  well  spread  over.  Decorate  the  dish  with  some 
nice  garnish. 

Grouse  Boasted. — Clean  well  and  truss  four  fine  fat  grouse  ; 
place  them  in  a  roasting  pan  with  cupful  of  water,  spread  a  little 
butter  over  each,  and  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt ;  put  them  into 
a  good  oven  and  let  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  taking  care  to  baste 
frequently  with  their  own  gravy;  then  untruss.  Have  a  hot 
serving  dish  ready ;  arrange  the  grouse  on  some  toasted  bread, 
and  decorate  the  dish  with  a  little  watercress  and  lemon  ;  strain 
the  gravy  into  a  bowl,  and  serve  it  separately. 

Beed-Birds  Boasted. — Select  freshly  killed  fat  reed- birds; 
cut  off  their  legs  and  wings,  pick  the  eyes  out,  and  remove  the 
skin  from  the  heads ;  clean  and  wipe  them  neatly,  and  with  a 
skewer  remove  the  gizzards  from  the  sides,  then  cover  their 
breasts  lightly  with  thin  slices  of  bacon ;  arrange  them  on  kid- 
ney skewers,  and  lay  them  in  a  roasting  pan  ;  season  with  a  pinch 
of  salt,  spread  a  very  little  butter  over,  and  set  them  in  the  oven 
to  roast  for  six  to  eight  minutes  ;  put  on  toasted  bread  ;  garnish 
nicely  and  serve. 

Plovers  Broiled. — Singe  and  clean  nicely  some  fine  plovers  ; 
pick  out  the  eyes,  split  them  through  the  back  without  separat- 
ing the  parts,  and  place  them  on  a  dish ;  season  with  one  pinch 
of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil ; 
roll  them  in  well,  and  put  them  on  a  broiler  to  cook  for  four 
minutes  on  each  side.  Dress  them  on  a  hot  dish  with  pieces  of 
toast,  spread  over  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  decorate  with  some  nice 
garnish  and  serve. 


Game,  Frogs  and  Terrapin.  245 

Quails  Broiled  with  Bacon.— Select  five  fat  quails;  singe 
and  clean  them  well ;  split  them  through  the  back  without  sep- 
arating the  parts,  and  break  the  two  leg  bones.  Put  them  on  a 
dish  ;  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil,  mixing  them  in  well,  and  put  them  to 
broil  on  a  moderate  fire  for  six  minutes  on  each  side.  Arrange 
toast  on  a  hot  dish,  lay  the  quails  on  top,  and  pour  over  some 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  (see  page  212),  decorating  with  slices  of 
broiled  bacon,  and  serve  on  hot  dish. 

Partridge  Broiled. — Singe,  clean  and  wipe  neatly  four  small 
partridges ;  cut  them  in  halves,  lay  them  on  a  dish,  and  season 
with  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  oil.  Roll  them  in  well,  then  put  them  to  broil  for 
six  or  seven  minutes  on  each  side.  Prepare  slices  of  fried  hom- 
iny. Arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish ;  place  the  partridges  over, 
and  pour  over  some  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (see  page  212)  ;  place 
slices  of  broiled  bacon  over  the  birds  and  serve  on  hot  dish. 

Squabs  Broiled  on  Toast,  with  Bacon. — Singe  and  clean 
well,  cut  the  necks  off,  and  wipe  nicely  some  good- sized  squabs  ; 
split  them  without  detaching  the  parts,  then  lay  them  on  a  dish 
and  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil ;  roll  them  in  well,  and  put  them  to 
broil  for  six  minutes  on  each  side.  Prepare  a  dish  with  toasted 
bread  ;  arrange  the  squabs  over,  and  spread  over  on  top  some 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  (see  page  212).  Decorate  the  dish  with 
slices  of  broiled  bacon  and  serve. 

Woodcock  Broiled  with  Bacon. — Singe  and  clean  well,  pick 
out  the  eyes,  and  remove  the  skin  from  the  heads  of  six  fine 
woodcocks ;  wipe  them  neatly,  and  split  them  through  the  back 
without  separating  the  parts.  Put  them  on  a  dish  to  season  with 
a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
sweet  oil.  Roll  them  in  well,  then  put  them  on  to  broil  with  the 
bills  stuck  into  the  breasts  ;  let  broil  for  three  to  five  minutes  on 


246  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

each  side ;  then  arrange  on  a  dish  with  toasted  bread  covered 
with  pieces  of  their  hearts  and  liver,  pour  over  some  maitre  d'hotel 
butter,  lay  on  some  thin  slices  of  bacon  and  serve. 

English  Snipe  Broiled.— Clean  well  and  dry  some  fine  snipe ; 
remove  the  skin  from  the  heads,  split  them  in  two  without  de- 
taching the  parts,  and  put  them  on  a  dish ;  season  with  a  pinch 
of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  oil ;  roll 
them  in  well,  then  put  them  to  broil  with  the  bills  stuck  into 
the  breasts,  and  let  them  cook  for  four  minutes  on  each  side ; 
prepare  a  hot  dish  with  toast,  arrange  the  snipe  over,  spread  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  on  top ;  garnish  the  dish  with  a  little  watercress, 
and  serve. 

Canvas-back  Ducks  Boasted. — Select  two  fine  fat  canvas- 
back  ducks,  singe,  and  clean  well ;  throw  a  pinch  of  salt  inside, 
run  in  the  head  from  the  end  of  the  neck  to  the  back,  truss  nicely, 
and  place  in  a  roasting  pan.  Sprinkle  a  little  salt  over,  put  them 
in  a  brisk  oven,  and  let  cook  for  twenty  minutes ;  arrange  on  a 
very  hot  dish,  untruss,  throw  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  broth 
into  each  duck,  and  serve  with  slices  of  fried  hominy  and  cur- 
rant jelly. 

Canvas-back  Ducks  Broiled. — Select  two  fine  fat  canvas- 
back  ducks ;  split  them  through  the  back  without  detaching 
them,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish  to  season  with  a  good  pinch  of  salt, 
half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  oil.  Roll  them  in 
well,  and  allow  them  to  broil  seven  to  eight  minutes  on  each  side. 
Put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  spread  over  some  maitre  d'hotel  butter, 
garnish  nicely  and  serve. 


POULTRY. 


To  Fry  Chickens. — Cut  the  chickens  in  small  pieces.  Then 
take  half  butter  and  half  lard,  and  heat  it.  Pepper,  salt  and  flour 
the  chickens,  and  fry  them  brown.  When  done,  take  them  out 
and  put  them  on  a  dish.  Take  some  of  the  lard  from  the  frying 
pan,  as  there  will  be  too  much  for  the  gravy,  mix  with  the  rest 
some  cream  and  parsley.  Boil  up,  and  pour  it  over  the  chickens. 

Pressed  Chicken. — Fricassee  your  chicken,  taking  care  to 
brown  the  skin  nicely,  and  season  to  taste.  When  done,  set  by 
to  cool.  Then  after  removing  all  the  bones,  take  a  chopping 
knife  and  chop  finely,  leaving  in  all  the  oil  of  the  fowl ;  if  this  be 
not  enough,  add  a  piece  of  butter.  Then  pack  closely  in  a  dish, 
as  you  wish  it  to  go  to  the  table. 

Chicken  Jelly.— Cut  up  a  fowl  as  for  fricassee,  boil  until 
tender,  take  out  the  chicken,  and  chop  it  in  small  pieces.  Then 
to  the  broth  add  a  little  pepper,  salt  and  summer  savory.  Dis- 
solve one-half  ounce  of  gelatine,  and  stir  it  with  the  broth  in  a 
bowl.  When  it  begins  to  congeal,  add  the  chicken,  and  pour  the 
whole  into  a  mould. 

Roast  Chicken  with  Chestnuts.— Use  the  chicken  boiled  for 
chicken  and  rice  soup,  or  dress  a  small  fowl  carefully,  and  boil  it 
gently  until  it  is  tender,  in  sufficient  water  to  cover  it ;  while  the 
chicken  is  being  boiled,  either  boil  or  roast  enough  chestnuts  to 
fill  it ;  if  the  nuts  are  to  be  roasted,  make  a  cross  cut  on  each  to 
prevent  the  bursting  of  the  shell ;  remove  the  shells  and  skin  of 
the  chestnuts,  fill  the  chicken  with  them,  and  brown  it  quickly, 
either  before  an  open  fire  or  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  it  every  five 


248  Cooking  and  Hoifcekeeping  Simplified. 

minutes  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper  mixed  together ;  serve  the 
chicken  as  soon  as  it  is  brown. 

Chicken  Croquettes.— One  boiled  chicken,  chopped  yery  fine 
and  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt  and  a  very  little  nutmeg.  Put 
into  a  saucepan  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  two  eggs  and  one-half  tumbler  of  cream.  Mix 
till  smooth.  Then  boil  till  the  flour  is  cooked,  taking  care  not  to 
let  it  turn  dark;  if  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  cream.  Mix  this 
with  the  chicken  while  warm ;  then  shape  the  croquettes,  and  put 
them  on  the  ice  to  harden.  When  cold,  roll  them  in  egg  beaten 
with  crumbs,  and  fry  in  lard. 

Jellied  Veal  or  Chicken. — Put  some  veal  on  to  boil,  with  a 
little  salt.  When  well  cooked,  mince  it  very  fine,  and  add  a  little 
of  the  liquor,  with  some  pepper,  thyme,  summer  savory  rubbed 
fine,  and  a  little  mace.  To  one  quart  of  the,  liquor  that  is  left 
add  one-half  ounce  of  Cox's  gelatine,  and  if  it  is  not  clear,  put  in 
the  whites  of  one  or  two  eggs.  Put  some  of  it  in  the  bottom  of 
some  moulds,  add  the  veal  pressed  in  them,  fill  the  top  with  jelly. 

Terrapin  Teal. — Cold  veal  cut  in  dice,  six  hard-boiled  eggs 
chopped,  one  wine  glass  of  wine,  ~ne  cup  of  cream,  pepper,  salt 
and  spice.  Serve  hot. 

Chicken  Quenelles.— Mix  together  half  a  cupful  each  of  the 
soft  part  of  bread  and  of  cooked  chicken  meat  chopped  fine. 
Season  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  moisten  it  with  enough  raw 
yolk  of  egg  to  bind  it,  so  that  little  egg-shaped  pieces  can  be 
made ;  roll  them  in  egg  and  cracker  dust,  and  fry  in  butter. 

Boiled  Chicken. — Carefully  pluck  and  draw  a  tender  chicken, 
singe  it,  wipe  it  with  a  wet  towel,  cut  off  the  head  and  feet,  and 
truss  it  for  boiling;  put  the  chicken  over  the  fire  in  sufficient 
water  to  cover  it,  with  a  level  tablespoonsful  of  salt,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  peppercorns  or  a  small  red  pepper.  Boil  the  chicken 
until  it  is  tender,  then  serve  it  with  cream  onion  sauce.  A  fowl 
boiled  very  gently  for  about  four  hours,  or  until  it  is  tender,  and 


Poultry*  249 

served  with  cream  onion  sauce,  makes  an  economical  and  palata- 
ble dish.  The  chicken  or  fowl  may  be  boiled  until  nearly  tender 
enough  to  serve,  then  taken  from  the  broth,  put  into  a  saucepan 
with  the  onion  sauce,  and  the  cooking  finished  in  this  way. 

Chicken  Pie. — Joint  the  chickens,  which  should  be  young 
and  tender;  boil  in  just  enough  water  to  cover  them;  when 
nearly  tender,  take  them  out  of  the  liquor,  and  put  them  in  a 
deep  pudding  dish  lined  with  pastry;  to  each  layer  of  chicken 
put  three  or  four  slices  of  pork ;  add  a  little  of  the  liquor  in 
which  they  were  boiled,  and  two  ounces  *of  butter  cut  in  small 
pieces  sprinkle  a  little  flour  over  the  whole  ;  cover  with  pastry, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Fricasseed  Chicken. — Cut  young  chickens,  and  lay  them  in 
milk  and  water  for  about  one  hour.  Then  drain  on  a  sieve,  and 
rub  each  piece  with  flour.  Gravy :  Rub  together  one  spoonful 
of  flour  and  one  spoonful  of  butter ;  add  a  little  salt,  nutmeg, 
pepper  and  two-thirds  of  a  wine  glass  of  white  wine;  then  add 
one  pint  of  cream.  Let  the  whole  simmer  till  the  flour  is  cooked. 
Pour  this  over  the  chicken,  which  should  have  been  fried  in  sweet 
lard  till  nicely  browned.  Do  r  >t  pour  the  gravy  over  it  till  just 
ready  to  send  to  the  table. 

Smothered  Chicken. — After  dressing  the  chicken,  cut  it 
open  at  the  back,  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper  and  little  lumps  of 
butter.  Put  in  a  baking  pan,  cover  with  another  pan,  and  bake 
one  hour.  Baste  often  with  butter. 

Baked  Chicken  Pudding.— Cut  up  a  pair  of  young  chickens, 
and  season  them  with  pepper,  salt,  a  little  mace  and  nutmeg. 
Put  them  into  a  pot  with  two  large  spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  water 
enough  to  cover  them.  Stir  them  gently,  and  when  half  cooked, 
take  them  out  and  set  them  away  to  cool.  Pour  off  the  gravy, 
and  reserve  it  to  be  served  separately.  Make  a  batter  of  one 
quart  of  milk,  six  eggs  well  beaten,  flour  and  a  little  salt.  Put  a 
layer  of  chicken  in  the  bottom  of  a  deep  dish,  and  pour  over  it 


250  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

some  of  the  batter;  then  another  layer  of  chicken,  and  more 
batter,  until  the  dish  is  full,  having  a  cover  of  batter  on  the  top. 
Bake  to  a  light  brown.  Break  one  egg  into  the  gravy  which 
you  have  set  away ;  give  it  one  boil,  and  serve  as  sauce  to  be 
eaten  with  the  pudding. 


FORMULAS  FROM  FOREIGN  CHEFS. 

The  following  formulas  for  preparing  chicken  are  from  foreign 
chefs : 

Chicken  Croquettes  a  la  Italienne. — Make  a  croquette  prepa- 
ration, using  any  formula.  Then  roll  them  into  any  croquette 
shape  desired ;  dip  each  one  separately  into  beaten  eggs,  then 
fresh  bread  crumbs  or  cracker  dust ;  fry  them  on  a  good  hot  fire 
for  nearly  five  minutes;  then  put  them  into  a  colander  and 
drain  them  thoroughly.  Place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve 
with  some  nice  meat  or  chicken  sauce. 

Chicken  Legs  a  la  Italienne. — Cut  the  legs  from  three  or 
four  nice-sized  chickens ;  clean  them  well,  put  in  vessel  and  let 
them  boil  for  ten  minutes;  remove  from  stove,  allow  to  cool, 
then  season  to  suit  the  taste;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  nice  sauce 
and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mustard  ;  mix  well  in  this,  then 
roll  them  into  fresh  bread  crumbs  and  put  them  on  fire  to  broil 
for  four  or  five  minutes  on  each  side.  Put  on  hot  dish,  pour 
over  some  nice  gravy  or  sauce;  garnish  nicely  with  greens  and 
lemons,  and  serve. 

Chicken  Pot-pie. — Take  a  fine  chicken  weighing  about  four 
pounds,  singe  and  clean  thoroughly,  and  cut  into  twelve  even 
pieces.  Put  these  into  a  saucepan,  and  cover  them  with  cold 
water ;  leave  them  in  one-half  hour,  then  wash  well,  drain,  and 


Poultry  from  Foreign   Chefs.  251 

return  them  to  the  saucepan.  Cover  again  with  fresh  water, 
season  with  two  pinches  of  salt,  one  pinch  of  pepper,  and  a  third 
of  a  pinch  of  nutmeg ;  add  a  bouquet  of  herbs,  six  small  onions, 
and  four  ounces  of  salt  pork  cut  in  square  pieces.  Cook  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour,  taking  care  to  skim  well,  then  add  one 
pound  of  raw  potatoes,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  diluted 
with  a  cupful  of  cold  water.  Stir  until  it  boils,  then  let  cook 
for  ten  minutes.  Remove  the  bouquet  and  transfer  the  whole 
to  a  deep  earthen  baking  dish;  moisten  the  edges  slightly  with 
water  and  cover  the  top  with  a  good  pie-crust.  Egg  the  sur- 
face. 

Chicken  Livers  Stewed  in  Madeira  Wine. — Take  one  pound 
of  chicken  livers;  clean  them  well  with  a  cloth,  then  fry  them  in 
a  pan,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  on  a  brisk  fire,  for  five 
minutes.  Season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper, 
add  half  a  glass  of  madeira  wine,  reduce  for  one  minute,  then 
pour  over  about  half  a  pint  of  Universal  sauce  (see  page  208). 
Cook  again  for  three  minutes,  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  good 
butter  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  tossing  well  without  letting 
it  boil;  pour  the  whole  on  a  hot  serving  dish,  and  serve  with 
some  heart-shaped  pieces  of  fried  bread. 

Chicken  Roasted,  Plain. — Singe  and  clean  nicely  a  large 
chicken.  Cover  it  with  a  thin  slice  of  salt  fat  pork,  and  place  it 
in  a  roasting  pan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  broth.  Spread  a 
little  butter  over  the  breast,  sprinkle  on  half  a  pinch  of  salt,  and 
put  it  in  the  oven  to  cook  for  fifty  to  sixty  minutes.  Baste  it 
frequently,  and  arrange  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  decorate  with  a 
little  watercress.  Strain  the  gravy  into  a  sauce  bowl,  and  send 
it  to  the  table. 

Chicken  Livers  with  Bacon. — Procure  twelve  fresh  chicken 
livers ;  dry  them  well  with  a  clean  cloth,  season  with  half  a  pinch 
each  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  cut  each  liver  in  two.  Now  prepare 
four  slices  of  lean  bacon,  broil  them  for  one  minute,  then  cut 


252  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

each  slice  into  six  pieces.  Take  six  skewers,  run  a  skewer 
through  the  center  of  the  liver,  the  same  with  a  piece  of  bacon, 
and  continue  the  same  process  until  the  six  skewers  are  each  one 
rilled  with  a  piece  of  liver  and  a  piece  of  bacon.  Roll  them  on  a 
dish  with  one  tablespoonful  of  good  oil,  dip  them  in  fresh  bread 
crumbs,  and  put  them  on  a  moderate  fire  to  broil  for  five  minutes 
on  each  side.  Arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  two 
ounces  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (see  page  212),  and  serve  with 
some  nice  garnish. 

Chicken  Broiled  with  Bacon. — Select  two  fine  tender  spring 
chickens;  singe,  clean  thoroughly  and  cut  the  heads  off,  then 
split  them  without  separating.  Place  them  on  a  dish,  sea- 
son with  one  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil;  turn  them  well  in  the  seasoning. 
Put  them  to  broil  for  ten  minutes  on  each  side.  Prepare  slices 
of  small  toasts  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  two  broiled  chickens 
over,  spread  half  a  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  on  top  (see 
page  212),  and  decorate  with  thin  slices  of  broiled  bacon,  and 
serve  hot. 

Chicken  Sante  a  la  Eugene. — Clean  well  and  cut  into  pieces 
two  small  tender  chickens.  Lay  them  in  an  oiled  pan,  and 
brown  slightly  on  both  sides  for  five  minutes,  seasoning  with  a 
good  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper.  Pour  over  half  a 
pint  of  Universal  sauce  (see  page  208)  and  quarter-pint  of  mush- 
room liquor.  Add  twelve  mushroom  buttons  and  two  truffles 
cut  in  thin  slices,  also  half  a  glassful  of  madeira  wine.  Let  cook 
for  twenty  minutes,  then  serve  with  six  fried  eggs  and  some 
small  pieces  of  fried  bread  cut  into  heart-shapes. 

Chicken  a  la  Maryland. — Select  two  small  tender  spring 
chickens,  leave  the  half  of  one  aside  for  other  use,  and  detach  the 
legs  and  the  wings ;  lay  them  on  a  plate,  season  with  a  good 
pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  then  dip  them  in  beaten 
egg  and  afterward  roll  them  in  fresh  bread  crumbs.  Place  them 


Poultry  from  Foreign   Chefs.  253 

in  a  buttered  pan,  pour  an  ounce  of  clarified  butter  over,  and 
roast  in  the  oven  for  eighteen  minutes.  Pour  half  a  pint  of  cream 
sauce  (see  page  211)  onto  a  hot  serving  dish,  arrange  the  chicken 
nicely  on  top,  and  decorate  with  thin  slices  of  broiled  bacon ;  also 
six  small  corn  fritters.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Chicken  Boiled  a  la  Cleveland. — Singe  and  clean  well  two 
small  chickens  ;  truss  them  from  the  wing  to  the  leg  with  a  needle, 
and  broil  them  in  good  broth  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Pre- 
pare a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  (see  page  210)  with  the  broth  of  the 
chickens,  adding  a  half-cup  of  small  pieces  of  boiled  carrots,  the 
same  of  cooked  Lima  beans  or  flageolets,  and  let  all  cook  together 
for  four  minutes.  Dish  up  the  chickens,  untruss  them  and  pour 
the  sauce  over,  arranging  the  vegetables  on  each  side.  Serve 
with  chopped  parsley. 

Chicken  Saute  a  la  Francaise. — Singe  and  clean  well  two 
small  chickens,  cut  them  into  twelve  pieces,  put  them  in  a  pan 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  and  one  chopped  shallot.  Let  brown 
well  for  five  minutes,  then  pour  over  half  a  glassful  of  white  wine, 
adding  three  artichoke  bottoms,  each  one  cut  into  four  pieces. 
Season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  then  put 
the  lid  on  and  let  simmer  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes ;  when  ready 
to  serve,  add  a  little  meat  glaze  (see  page  209),  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Dish  up 
the  pieces  nicely  arranged,  and  garnish  with  the  artichoke  bot- 
toms in  clusters,  and  twelve  small  cooked  potatoes. 

Chestnut  Stuffing. — One  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one-quarter 
pound  of  sausage  meat,  one  dozen  finely  chopped  mushrooms, 
one  dozen  finely  chopped  cooked  chestnuts,  one  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  one  finely  chopped  shallot ;  place  pan  on  stove, 
put  in  the  butter  and  then  add  the  shallot  and  let  heat  for  a  few 
minutes  without  browning,  then  add  the  meat  and  cook  five  min- 
utes longer  ;  then  add  all  the  other  ingredients,  season  to  suit  the 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper  and  allow  to  come  to  a  boil ;  then 


254  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

add  one  tablespoonful  of  bread  crumbs  and  twenty-four  whole 
cooked  chestnuts,  and  it  is  ready  to  use  for  stuffing  purposes. 

To  Roast  Turkey. — Clean  and  wash  well  a  nice  fat  turkey- 
one  about  a  year  old  is  the  best,  salt  and  pepper  it  inside  and  out, 
take  about  one  quart  of  dry  bread  crumbs,  one-half  tea  cup  of 
butter  cut  in  pieces  (not  melted),  two  stalks  of  celery  cut  in  pieces, 
salt  and  pepper  ;  mix  all  together  thoroughly.  Drain  one  pint 
of  oysters,  then  fill  the  turkey ;  first  put  in  a  tablespoonful  of  the 
dressing,  then  a  few  oysters,  and  continue  this  until  the  turkey  is 
full.  Lay  it  in  the  dripping  pan,  sprinkle  flour  over  it,  strain  the 
oyster  liquor  and  use  it  to  baste  the  turkey  with.  A  ten-pound 
turkey  will  require  three  hours'  cooking  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 
Cook  the  giblets  tender,  chop  fine  and  then  add  them  to  the  gravy. 

Fried  Turkey. — Cut  from  the  breast  of  a  raw  turkey  slices  of 
meat,  roll  in  flour;  have  in  frying  pan  some  hot  butter,  lay  the 
meat  in,  salt  and  pepper  it,  and  fry  until  it  is  a  light  brown  ;  it 
cooks  very  quickly  and  will  be  as  tender  as  a  partridge.  If  you 
wish  to  bake  the  rest  of  the  turkey  you  can  do  so ;  spread  some 
dressing  over  the  part  taken  out,  and  it  will  not  be  noticed. 

Boiled  Turkey. — Select  tender  turkey,  singe  and  clean  well, 
and  truss  with  a  needle  from  the  wing  to  the  leg ;  put  it  into  a 
vessel  and  let  cook  for  sixty  minutes,  removing  to  a  hot  serving 
dish  ;  decorate  with  hot  slices  of  cooked  ham  and  two  cupfuls  of 
cooked  spinach ;  pour  over  some  hot  broth,  garnish  nice  and  serve 
hot.  You  can  garnish  with  either  oyster  sauce,  celery  sauce,  egg 
sauce  and  boiled  or  roasted  chestnuts. 

Boiled  Turkey  a  la  Baltimore.— Serve  a  boiled  turkey  as  de- 
scribed ;  garnish  it  with  half  a  head  of  cooked  cauliflower,  one 
good-sized  cooked  carrot  cut  in  slices,  and  six  cooked  small 
onions,  all  neatly  arranged  around  the  dish,  with  a  cupful  of 
Spanish  sauce  (see  page  210)  served  separately. 

Hashed  Turkey. — Take  a  pound  and  a  half  of  dice- shaped 
pieces  of  cooked  turkey  ;  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of 


Poultry  from  Foreign  Chefs.  255 

Napoleon  sauce  (see  page  207),  three  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom 
liquor,  and  two  truffles  cut  in  square  pieces.  Season  with  one 
pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper  and  the  third  of  a  pinch  of 
nutmeg.  Let  all  heat  together  for  ten  minutes,  then  serve  with 
heart-shaped  pieces  of  fried  bread ;  garnish  nicely  around  the 
dish  and  serve. 

Hashed  Turkey  a  la  Creme. — Proceed  the  same  as  above,  sub- 
stituting one  pint  of  cold  fresh  cream  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
fresh  butter  for  the  sauce,  also  omitting  the  truffles,  reducing  the 
cream  with  the  hash  to  one  half,  which  will  take  five  minutes. 
Pour  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve. 

Boiled  Turkey. — Choose  a  tender  hen  turkey  weighing  about 
seven  pounds ;  have  it  carefully  plucked,  singed  and  wiped  with 
a  wet  towel ;  cut  off  the  head  and  feet,  draw  it  without  breaking 
the  intestines ;  either  stuff  it  with  equal  quantities  of  stale  bread 
and  oysters,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  or  truss  it  unstuffed ; 
put  it  over  the  fire  in  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  it,  remove 
all  scum  as  it  rises,  and  boil  the  turkey  gently  for  about  two 
hours,  or  until  it  is  tender.  While  the  turkey  is  being  boiled, 
carefully  remove  all  bits  of  shell  from  a  quart  of  medium-sized 
oysters,  and  strain  their  liquor. 

Turkey  with  Oyster  Sauce. — When  the  turkey  is  nearly  done, 
put  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  two  level  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
and  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  stir  them  together 
until  they  bubble ;  then  gradually  stir  in  the  oyster  liquor  and 
enough  broth  from  the  turkey  to  make  a  sauce  of  the  consistency 
of  cream  ;  season  it  palatably  with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  let 
it  boil  for  a  moment ;  put  the  saucepan  containing  the  sauce  into 
a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  place  it  on  the  back  of  the  fire  to  keep 
hot  until  just  before  dishing  the  turkey  ;  then  put  in  the  oysters, 
and  let  them  boil  once  ;  meantime  dish  the  turkey,  remove  the 
trussing  cords,  pour  a  little  of  the  oyster  sauce  over  it,  and  serve 
it  with  the  rest  of  the  sauce  in  a  boat. 


256  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Boiled  Turkey  with  Celery  Sauce.— Dress  the  turkey  as  di- 
rected in  the  preceding  recipe,  substituting  celery,  washed  and 
chopped,  for  the  oysters,  both  in  the  stuffing  and  in  the  sauce, 
and  taking  care  that  the  celery  used  for  the  sauce  is  very  white 
and  tender. 

Boned  Turkey. — Select  a  fine  tender  turkey  weighing  from 
eight  to  ten  pounds  ;  singe  and  clean  well,  wiping  the  interior; 
make  an  incision  along  the  back,  boning  from  the  neck  down 
toward  the  breast  on  both  sides,  being  careful  not  to  make  any 
incisions  in  the  skin,  as  it  should  remain  perfect  Make  an  in- 
cision from  the  first  joint,  then  bone  both  legs ;  cut  away  also, 
very  carefully,  the  two  wing  bones ;  season  the  inside  with  one 
pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper  evenly  divided  ;  place  it 
on  a  dish,  and  lay  it  in  the  ice  box  until  needed.  Take  two 
pounds  of  lean  raw  veal,  three  pounds  of  fresh  pork,  and  half  a 
pound  of  larding  pork,  all  cut  up  into  dice-shaped  pieces ;  season 
with  two  pinches  of  salt,  one  pinch  of  white  pepper,  the  third  of 
a  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg  and  the  same  quantity  of  thyme; 
mix  all  well  together;  place  all  in  the  chopping  machine  and 
chop  it  exceedingly  fine,  repeating  the  process,  if  necessary,  until 
it  is  chopped  to  perfection.  Should  there  be  any  sinews  among 
the  ingredients,  remove  them  all ;  place  on  a  cold  dish  and  put 
away  in  the  ice  box  to  cool  until  the  following  is  prepared  :  Have 
ready  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  the  red  part  of  a  cooked  smoked 
beef  tongue,  cut  in  dice-  shaped  pieces  half  an  inch  square  ;  take 
some  forcemeat  from  the  ice  box,  and  thoroughly  mix  the  tongue 
with  it,  pouring  in  also  a  wineglassful  of  madeira  wine ;  take  the 
turkey  from  the  ice  box,  spread  it  on  a  clean  table  skin  side 
downward;  then  with  a  keen  knife  cut  away  even  slices  from  the 
breasts,  arrange  them  on  the  thin,  so  that  the  turkey  shall  have 
an  equal  thickness  all  over  ;  place  the  forcemeat  right  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  turkey,  column  shaped,  leaving  a  clear  space  of  two 
inches  at  each  end  and  of  four  inches  at  each  side  ;  spread  on  a 


Poultry  from  Foreign  Chefs.  257 

table  a  strong,  clean  napkin,  sprinkling  over  it  a  little  cold  water ; 
fold  up  first  both  ends  of  the  turkey,  then  both  sides,  so  that  the 
four  ends  should  be  enveloped ;  gently  lift  and  lay  it  right  in  the 
center  of  the  napkin  ;  roll  it  carefully  in  the  napkin ;  tightly  tie 
one  end  first,  then  the  other,  as  firmly  as  possible,  taking  in  the 
slack  of  the  napkin  ;  place  it  in  a  large  saucepan  on  the  hot 
range,  with  the  carcass  and  whatever  bones  and  debris  pertain  to 
it  completely  covered  with  cold  water,  place  the  lid  on,  and  when 
coming  to  a  boil  thoroughly  skim  it,  then  add  one  medium-sized 
sound  scraped  carrot,  and  one  well-peeled  onion  with  three 
cloves  stuck  in  ;  season  with  one  pinch  of  salt,  and  then  let  boil 
on  a  moderate  fire  for  fully  two  and  a  half  hours ;  remove  the 
galantine  with  a  skimmer ;  let  cool  a  little,  so  that  it  can  be  eas- 
ily handled  ;  cut  the  strings  at  both  ends  ;  roll  it  over  again  as 
before,  and  tightly  tie  both  ends  exactly  as  before ;  lay  it  in  a 
flat  tin  pan,  placing  on  top  of  it  a  board  the  size  of  the  boned 
turkey,  and  on  top  of  it  a  weight  of  seven  pounds,  leaving  the 
weight  on  until  the  galantine  is  thoroughly  cold,  which  will  take 
a  whole  night ;  but  avoid  placing  it  in  the  ice  box  until  thor- 
oughly cold  ;  two  days  after  the  preparation  it  will  be  ready  for 
use,  keeping  it  in  the  ice  box  in  the  same  napkin  in  which  it  was 
cooked. 

Boast  Goose. — Parboil  for  two  hours ;  then  fill  with  seasoned 
mashed  potatoes,  lay  in  dripping  pan,  add  salt  and  pepper,  pour 
over  one  coffee  cup  of  hot  water  ;  baste  often.  Serve  with  cran- 
berries. 

Boast  Duck. — Parboil  for  two  hours,  as  that  takes  away  its 
strong  taste,  before  putting  to  roast ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  ; 
make  a  dressing  by  using  six  sour  apples,  peeled,  quartered  and 
cored,  and  cook  until  about  half  done ;  add  a  cup  of  bread  crumbs, 
some  powdered  sage,  an  onion  cut  in  very  thin  slices,  a  pinch 
of  cayenne  pepper ;  mix  together  and  fill  the  duck,  and  roast. 
Garnish  with  celery  tops. 


258  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Brown  Gravy   for   Roast    Goose  or   Gosling.— After  the 

gosling  is  roasted  or  baked,  pour  nearly  all  the  fat  out  of  the  pan, 
but  do  not  pour  away  the  brown  part  of  the  drippings ;  put  the 
pan  over  the  fire,  stir  into  it  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and 
let  the  flour  brown.  Then  stir  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  season 
the  gravy  palatably  with  salt  and  pepper,  let  it  boil  for  a  moment, 
and  then  serve  it  with  the  gosling. 

The  giblets,  cooked  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  giblet  gravy 
given  below,  may  be  added  to  this  gravy.  In  that  case,  the 
broth  in  which  the  giblets  were  boiled  would  be  used  instead  of 
boiling  water  to  make  the  gravy. 

Giblet  Gravy  for  Boast  Goose  or  Gosling. — Skin  the  head 
and  neck  of  the  gosling ;  remove  all  pin  feathers  from  the  tips  of 
the  wings ;  scald  and  scrape  the  legs  and  feet,  after  cutting  off 
the  claws ;  clean  the  heart  and  gizzard,  and  cut  away  the  gall 
from  the  liver ;  put  them  all  into  a  saucepan  with  enough  boiling 
water  to  entirely  cover  them,  with  salt  and  pepper  in  a  palatable 
quantity,  and  boil  them  until  the  gosling  is  nearly  done ;  then 
remove  all  the  bones  and  chop  the  flesh  and  skin.  Save  the 
water  in  which  they  were  boiled  ;  put  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan 
a  heaping  tablespoonful  each  of  butter  and  flour,  and  stir  them 
until  they  are  brown  ;  gradually  stir  in  the  chopped  giblets  and 
broth.  If  there  is  not  enough  broth  to  make  a  gravy  of  the 
proper  consistency,  add  a  little  boiling  water  ;  season  the  gravy 
palatably  with  salt  and  pepper,  let  it  boil  for  a  moment,  and 
serve  with  the  roast  gosling. 

Salmi  of  Duck  a  la  English.— Select  two  fine  ducks ;  singe 
and  clean  well,  wipe  neatly,  and  cut  off  the  wings,  legs  and  breasts ; 
put  them  in  a  saucepan,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over,  and  put  it  in 
the  oven  to  cook  for  six  minutes ;  remove  them  and  hash  them 
up.  Put  them  back  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  white  broth 
(see  page  206)  and  a  small  bouquet  of  herbs  (see  pagr«  193),  and 
let  cook  on  moderate  fire  for  fifteen  minutes.  Put  *wo  table- 


Poultry  from  Foreign   CJiefs.  259 

spoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  pan,  lay  in  the  wings,  legs  and  breasts, 
then  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper;  cook 
on  a  very  brisk  fire  for  three  minutes  on  each  side,  then  add 
half  a  glassful  of  madeira  wine  and  one  cupful  of  Universal  sauce 
(see  page  208),  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  strain  the  gravy  of 
the  carcasses  over,  and  let  all  cook  again  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Dress  nicely  on  a  hot  dish  and  decorate  with  six  heart-shaped 
pieces  of  fried  hominy,  and  serve. 


EGGS,  OMELETS,  ETC, 


Eggs  are  one  of  the  most  nutritious  articles  of  food,  as  they 
contain  a  highly  concentrated  form  of  nitrogenous  matter,  nearly 
one-third  of  their  weight  being  solid  nutriment;  and  for  that 
reason  they  are  highly  recommended  by  all  physicians  for  the 
sick  and  convalescent. 

Composition  of  the  yolk :  Water,  52.0;  mineral  matter,  1.3; 
fatty  matter,  30.7;  nitrogenous  matter,  i.o. 

Composition  of  the  white:  Water,  68.0;  mineral  matter,  1.6; 
fatty  matter,  o.o;  nitrogenous  matter,  20.4. 

How  to  Choose  Eggs.— Use  only  eggs  that  are  fresh  ;  reject 
those  you  have  reason  to  believe  are  old  and  stale,  as  they  are  the 
means  of  impairing  the  digestive  organs. 

To  Test  Eggs.— The  best  methods  known,  without  using  a 
mechanical  appliance,  are :  Shake  the  egg  gently  near  the  ear — 
if  a  gurgling  noise  is  heard,  it  is  bad ;  or  hold  egg  to  light — if 
transparent  or  the  yolk  can  be  traced,  it  is  good ;  if  cloudy,  it 
is  stale.  Another  good  way  is  to  make  a  solution  of  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  to  one  quart  of  water — if  eggs  sink  they  are  good ; 
if  they  rise  they  are  stale.  The  reason  of  this  is,  that  a  fresh  egg 
is  almost  full  of  matter,  and  as  it  ages  the  matter  gradually 
evaporates  through  the  porous  shell;  the  egg  matter,  becoming 
less  dense  with  time,  consequently  will  rise  to  the  surface  of  the 
water  when  old,  and  when  stale  will  float  on  top  of  the  water. 

How  to  Keep  Eggs.— Most  authorities  concede  that  the 
smaller  end  should  be  placed  down  in  packing  them,  and  in  order 
to  keep  them  the  pores  must  be  closed.  The  following  recipes 
are  considered  the  best  known : 


Omelets,  etc.  26  1 


FORMULA  1. 

To  Make  the  French  Preservative  Elixir  and  Medicated  Paper,  for  Pre- 
serving Fruits,  Vegetables,  Fish  and  Eggs  for  Months  by  Simply 
Wrapping  or  Coating  Them. 

Melt  five  ounces  of  stearine  at  a  gentle  heat  (don't  get  it  hot 
or  boiling),  then  stir  in  thoroughly  two  ounces  of  carbolic  acid, 
after  which  add  five  ounces  of  melted  paraffine  (don't  throw  in 
the  wax,  but  melt  it  first)  ;  stir  the  whole  well  together  until  it 
cools  (taking  vessel  with  mixture  off  from  stove  when  stirring  the 
last  time),  and  seal  tight  in  jars  or  crocks  until  ready  for  use.  If 
you  wish  to  make  the  medicated  paper,  melt  this  mixture  again 
at  a  gentle  heat,  and  take  quires  of  white  or  manilla  wrapping 
paper  and  apply  with  a  brush  over  paper.  If  you  wish  simply  to 
use  the  elixir  to  coat  vegetables  and  eggs  with,  melt  the  mixture 
as  described  and  apply  with  brush  to  the  outside  ;  never  apply 
while  hot,  but  when  it  is  just  cool  enough  to  use  without  being 
waxy  or  too  gummy. 

FORMULA  2. 

To  Make  Preservative  Paper  by  the  Use  of  the  French  Preservative 
Elixir  described  in  Formula  1. 

Take  a  quire  of  paper,  opening  it  flat  upon  a  table,  going  over 
it  quickly  with  a  hot  smoothing  iron  against  which  is  held  a  piece 
of  the  medicated  wax  described  in  Formula  I,  which,  melting, 
runs  down  upon  the  paper  and  is  absorbed  by  it.  A  little  prac- 
tice will  determine  the  amount  of  wax  that  should  be  melted  off 
from  time  to  time.  When  the  upper  sheet  is  saturated  it  is  taken 
off,  and  one  below  is  treated  in  same  manner.  This  paper  will 
be  found  very  useful  in  making  small  pipes  air-proof,  also  for 
tying  up  the  necks  of  bottles,  covering  preserve  jars,  and  for 
enveloping  tobacco,  eggs,  fruits  and  other  substances  that  require 
to  be  kept  from  air,  replacing  generally  tin  foil  and  similar  sub- 
stances. The  elixir  (made  as  in  Formula  i),  when  allowed  to 
cool  a  sufficient  time,  will  make  this  wax.  White  or  manilla  sheets 


262  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

of  wrapping  paper  is  best  to  use ;  don't  have  the  paper  too  thin 
or  transparent.  It  is  better  to  put  the  wax  on  this  way  than  de- 
scribed in  Formula  i. 

By  packing  the  eggs  in  the  preservative  paper  as  described 
in  Formula  2,  better  results  are  obtained  than  coating  the  eggs. 
After  the  eggs  are  wrapped,  pack  them  in  cork  dust ;  it  excludes 
the  air  better  than  sawdust,  and  is  a  non-conductor  of  heat  or 
cold.  Pears,  apples,  quinces  and  other  hard  fruits  packed  in  this 
way  when  in  prime  condition  will  keep  a  long  time. 

If  you  have  not  cork  dust  (druggist  will  order  it  for  you),  salt 
is  the  next  best  to  pack  eggs  in. 

Eggs  with  Cream. — This  dish  is  quickly  prepared,  if  one  has 
cold  boiled  eggs.  Cut  in  halves  and  arrange  them  cut  side  down- 
ward on  a  buttered  pie  plate.  Pour  over  a  sauce  made  of  cream 
thickened  with  a  little  corn-starch  and  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper.  If  you  have  any  scraps  of  cold  meat,  chop  fine  and  mix 
in  the  sauce.  Over  the  whole  grate  a  hard-boiled  yolk,  and  you 
have  an  attractive  and  appetizing  dish. 

Baked  Eggs. — Break  as  many  eggs  as  you  wish  for  your 
meal  on  a  platter;  sprinkle  over  with  salt,  pepper  and  lumps  of 
butter.  Set  in  the  oven  and  bake  from  five  to  eight  minutes. 

Poached  or  Dropped  Eggs. — Break  each  egg  into  a  saucer  by 
itself.  Have  a  shallow  pan  half  filled  with  scalding,  not  boiling, 
water  on  the  stove.  If  desired,  a  little  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  juice  may  be  added.  Slip  the  eggs  gently  from  the  saucer 
upon  the  top  of  the  water,  holding  the  edge  of  the  saucer  under 
water  to  prevent  the  eggs  from  scattering ;  dip  the  water  over 
them  with  a  spoon  and  let  them  stand  five  minutes,  or  until  the 
yolk  is  covered  with  a  film  and  the  white  is  firm  but  not  hardened ; 
keep  the  water  just  below  the  boiling  point  Take  out  the  eggs 
one  by  one  on  a  skimmer,  and  serve  in  egg  saucers,  or  on  slices 
of  nicely  browned  toast  moistened  with  a  little  sweet  cream,  as 


,   Omelets,  etc.  263 

preferred.  If  one  is  especially  particular  to  keep  the  shape  of 
the  eggs,  an  egg  poacher  should  be  used ;  or  a  set  of  muffin 
rings  may  be  laid  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  the  eggs  turned 
into  the  rings. 

Steamed  Eggs. — Butter  patty  pans  or  egg  cups,  break  an  egg 
in  each  one  and  place  them  in  steamer  over  a  kettle  of  boiling 
water ;  let  them  steam  until  the  whites  are  well  cooked. 

Eggs  and  Macaroni. — Break  fifteen  whole  sticks  of  macaroni 
into  two-inch  lengths,  and  put  to  cook  in  boiling  water.  While 
the  macaroni  is  cooking,  boil  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  until  mealy. 
The  whole  egg  may  be  used  if  cooked  so  the  yolks  are  mealy 
and  the  whites  simply  jellied,  not  hardened.  When  the  macaroni 
is  done,  drain  and  put  a  layer  of  it  arranged  loosely  in  the  bot- 
tom of  an  earthen  pudding  dish.  Slice  the  cooked  egg  yolks, 
and  spread  a  layer  of  them  over  the  macaroni.  Fill  the  dish 
with  alternate  layers  of  macaroni  and  egg,  taking  care  to  have 
the  top  layer  of  macaroni.  Pour  over  the  whole  a  cream  sauce 
prepared  as  follows :  Heat  one  and  three-fourths  cups  of  rich 
milk  to  boiling,  add  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  heap- 
ing spoonful  of  flour  rubbed  smooth  in  a  little  cold  milk.  Cook 
until  thickened,  then  turn  over  the  macaroni.  Sprinkle  the  top 
with  grated  bread  crumbs,  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven  for  eight  or 
ten  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Egg  Omelet. — Beat  together  in  a  cup  one  teaspoonful  of 
flour  and  a  little  milk ;  when  the  flour  is  smooth  fill  the  cup  half 
full  of  milk.  Break  four  eggs  in  a  bowl  and  pour  the  flour  and 
milk  into  the  eggs.  Stir  just  enough  to  break  the  yolks,  but  not 
to  beat  them ;  have  the  frying  pan  buttered  and  hot,  pour  this 
into  it  and  cover  it ;  when  it  begins  to  cook  roll  it  up  like  a 
jelly  roll,  and  as  soon  as  cooked  take  it  out  on  a  hot  platter. 
Serve  hot  and  with  as  little  handling  as  possible. 

Scrambled  Eggs. — Beat  four  eggs  lightly,  add  a  little  salt  if 
desired,  and  half  a  cup  of  milk  or  cream.  Have  ready  a  hot 


264  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

oiled  saucepan ;  turn  the  eggs  in  and  cook  quickly,  stirring  con- 
stantly until  firm,  but  soft. 

Pickled  Eggs. — One  pint  of  vinegar,  twelve  eggs,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  cinnamon,  one  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  mace  ;  put  the  spices  in  a  muslin  bag  and  boil  in  half-pint  of 
water ;  boil  the  eggs  hard  and  remove  the  shells ;  mix  the  vine- 
gar and  the  water  the  spices  were  boiled  in  together  and  pour 
over  the  eggs. 

Stuffed  Eggs. — Boil  eggs  hard,  remove  the  shells,  cut  one  end 
ofFand  take  out  the  yolk  ;  chop  some  ham  very  fine,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  mix  thoroughly  with  part  of  the  yolks  and 
fill  the  egg  with  it ;  replace  the  end  cut  off.  You  can  fill  the 
eggs  with  sardines  or  any  kind  of  meat  you  choose. 

Poached  Eggs  with  Ham. — Have  ready  about  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  cold  boiled  ham,  in  one  piece,  trimmed  free  from  fat;  make 
a  dish  of  very  delicate  buttered  toast ;  break  half  a  dozen  eggs  into 
separate  cups,  without  breaking  the  yolks ;  put  over  the  fire  a 
frying  pan  half  full  of  boiling  salted  water,  add  half  a  cupful  of 
vinegar  to  it,  slip  the  eggs  gently  into  it  without  breaking  them, 
and  cook  them  to  the  required  degree ;  while  the  eggs  are  being 
cooked,  grate  the  ham ;  when  the  eggs  are  done,  take  them 
up  on  a  skimmer,  slip  each  one  on  a  slice  of  toast,  lay  a  table- 
spoonful  of  grated  ham  on  each  egg,  and  serve  them  at  once. 

Plain  poached  eggs  are  served  on  toast  without  the  addition 
of  the  grated  ham. 

Eggs  poached  in  gravy  are  very  good. 

Shirred  Eggs. — This  form  of  cooking  eggs  is  a  modification 
of  baking  them.  Small  earthen  dishes  are  used,  each  one  hold- 
ing an  egg;  the  dishes  are  buttered,  an  egg  put  into  each  one 
without  mixing  the  white  and  the  yolk,  and  a  little  salt  and  pep- 
per dusted  over  the  eggs ;  the  dishes  are  then  placed  upon  the 
back  of  the  stove,  or  in  a  moderate  oven,  until  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  are  set ;  the  dishes  are  then  sent  to  the  table,  and  the  eggs 


Omelets,  etc.  265 

eaten  from  them.  When  the  eggs  are  cooked  in  the  oven,  they 
should  be  covered  with  a  buttered  paper  to  prevent  the  brown- 
ing of  the  surface. 

Broiled  Eggs. — Make  as  many  small  slices  of  toast  as  there 
are  eggs,  lay  them  on  a  platter,  butter  them,  and  on  each  one 
put  an  egg,  first  broken  into  a  cup  ;  set  the  dish  before  the  fire 
where  the  heat  will  strike  the  eggs,  and  let  them  cook  to  the  re- 
quired degree ;  when  the  eggs  are  done,  squeeze  over  them  the 
juice  of  a  sour  orange,  season  them  lightly  with  salt  and  cayenne, 
and  serve  them  hot. 

Bice  Omelet. — Melt  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  add  it  to  a  cup- 
ful each  of  milk  and  cold  boiled  rice,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  three  well-beaten  eggs  ;  put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a 
hot  frying  pan  and  melt  it ;  when  the  butter  is  melted,  pour  into 
the  pan  the  ingredients  already  mixed,  set  the  pan  in  a  hot  oven 
and  quickly  bake  the  omelet.  As  soon  as  it  is  cooked,  fold  it 
double,  turn  it  out  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  it  at  once. 

Omelet  with  Jelly. — Put  a  frying  pan  over  the  fire  to  heat, 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  butter ;  beat  separately  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  with  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth ; 
when  the  butter  is  melted,  mix  the  whites  and  the  yolks  gently 
together  and  put  them  into  the  hot  pan ;  as  fast  as  the  omelet 
cooks,  lift  the  cooked  portion  from  the  pan  with  a  fork,  and  throw 
it  upon  one  side  of  the  pan,  letting  the  uncooked  part  down  upon 
the  hot  pan.  When  the  omelet  is  cooked  to  the  desired  degree, 
put  a  tablespoonful  of  jelly  in  the  middle,  fold  the  omelet  together 
and  turn  it  out  on  a  hot  dish ;  dust  it  with  powered  sugar  and 
serve  it. 

Pineapple  Omelet. — Have  ready  a  tablespoonful  of  fresh- 
grated  pineapple  or  of  pineapple  preserve ;  mix  together  three 
eggs,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar; 
put  into  a  hot  buttered  pan,  and  cook  as  directed  in  the  recipe 
for  sardine  omelet,  until  it  is  ready  to  fold ;  then  put  in  the  pine- 


266  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

apple,  fold  the  omelet  together  and  turn  it  out  on  a  hot  dish ; 
dust  it  with  powered  sugar  and  serve  at  once. 

Omelet  with  Mushrooms. — Use  either  fresh  or  canned  mush- 
rooms ;  heat  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  canned  mushrooms  in 
enough  white  sauce  to  moisten  them ;  or  clean  three  fresh  mush- 
rooms of  medium  size,  and  fry  them  in  just  enough  butter  to 
prevent  burning,  seasoning  them  palatably  with  salt  and  pepper. 
While  the  mushrooms  are  being  heated,  beat  for  half  a  minute 
three  whole  eggs,  a  level  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  very  little  pep- 
per ;  put  a  smooth  frying  pan  over  the  fire,  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
butter;  when  the  butter  begins  to  brown,  pour  in  the  beaten  egg ; 
as  soon  as  the  egg  sets  upon  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  break  it  a 
little  with  a  fork  occasionally,  and  allow  the  uncooked  portion 
of  the  egg  to  reach  the  pan ;  do  not  break  the  outer  edge  of  the 
omelet,  and  do  not  stir  it  all  together  like  scrambled  eggs.  When 
the  omelet  is  cooked  to  the  desired  degree,  put  the  mushrooms 
in  the  middle,  fold  the  omelet  together  by  lifting  one-half  on  a 
broad  flexible  knife  and  laying  it  over  the  other ;  then  loosen  it 
entirely  from  the  pan,  turn  it  without  breaking  it,  and  serve  it  at 
once. 


FRENCH    AND    ITALIAN    METHODS. 

Sardine  Omelet. — Have  ready  over  the  fire  a  frying  pan  con- 
taining two  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil ;  remove  the  skin  and  bones 
from  two  sardines,  and  cut  them  in  half-inch  lengths ;  beat  three 
eggs,  with  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  slight  dust  of  cayenne 
pepper,  for  a  minute ;  have  ready  half  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice  or  vinegar;  when  the  oil  is  hot,  pour  the  eggs  into  the  pan, 
place  it  over  the  fire,  and  with  a  fork  slightly  break  the  omelet 
on  the  bottom  as  it  cooks,  so  that  the  uncooked  portion  can  run 
upon  the  pan ;  do  not  tear  the  edges  of  the  omelet.  When  the 


Eggs,  etc.:  French  and  Italian  Methods.  267 

omelet  is  cooked  to  the  required  degree  (and  it  should  not  be 
too  well  done),  lay  the  sardines  on  one  side  of  it,  pour  the  lemon 
juice  or  vinegar  over  them,  fold  the  omelet  together,  enclosing 
them,  and  then  turn  it  out  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  it  at  once. 
All  omelets  should  be  served  the  moment  they  are  done,  as  they 
harden  by  standing,  and  should  never  be  overdone. 

Turkey,  Goose  and  Duck  Eggs.— Put  the  eggs  into  a  bowl 
filled  with  boiling  water  for  five  minutes,  keeping  the  bowl 
covered  tight  and  in  a  hot  place ;  then  pour  off  the  first  water, 
replace  it  with  more  boiling  water,  and  let  stand  for  five  minutes 
longer;  serve  them  like  ordinary  boiled  eggs.  Or,  actually  boil 
the  eggs  for  five  minutes.  Either  of  these  methods  will  cook  the 
eggs  medium  hard.  From  ten  to  fifteen  minutes'  boiling  will 
cook  the  eggs  hard,  according  to  their  size.  Duck  eggs  will 
cook  in  less  time  than  turkey  or  goose  eggs. 

Tomato  Omelet. — Break  twelve  fresh  eggs  in  a  bowl,  season 
them  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  beat 
thoroughly  for  four  minutes.  Place  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
frying  pan  on  a  hot  stove,  let  it  heat  well  without  browning,  then 
pour  into  it  half  a  pint  of  freshly  cooked  stewed  tomatoes,  sup- 
pressing all  the  liquid.  Cook  for  two  minutes,  then  throw  the 
beaten  eggs  over,  and  with  a  fork  mix  the  whole  gently  for  three 
minutes;  let  rest  for  one  minute  longer.  Bring  up  the  two 
opposite  sides,  turn  it  carefully  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Oyster  Omelet. — Blanch  eighteen  oysters  to  boiling  point  in 
their  own  water ;  drain  and  return  them  to  the  saucepan,  moist- 
ening with  half  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  (see  page  210) ;  season 
with  half  a  pinch  of  salt.  Make  a  plain  omelet  with  twelve  eggs; 
bring  the  sides  toward  the  center,  and  fill  with  the  oyster  prepara- 
tion. Turn  it  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  rest  of  the  sauce  around, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

Omelet  with.  Fine  Herbs.— Break  twelve  fresh  eggs  into  a 
bowl,  add  a  pinch  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  half  a  pinch  of 


268  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

chopped  tarragon  and  half  a  pinch  of  chives;  also,  if  desired, 
half  a  cupful  of  sweet  cream.  Beat  the  whole  thoroughly  without 
stopping  for  four  minutes ;  melt  one  ounce  of  good  butter  in  a 
frying  pan  on  the  hot  stove ;  when  it  is  melted  and  begins  to 
crackle,  pour  in  the  eggs,  and  mix  them  gently  with  a  fork 
while  they  cook  for  three  minutes ;  let  them  rest  for  one  minute, 
then  bring  them  toward  the  center,  turn  it  on  a  hot  dish  and 
serve. 

Cheese  Omelet. — Put  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  frying  pan, 
heat  it  on  the  hot  stove.  Break  twelve  eggs  into  a  bowl,  beat 
thoroughly  for  four  minutes,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
Swiss  cheese,  half  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper. 
Pour  the  whole  into  the  frying  pan,  and  make  an  omelet;  turn 
it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  besprinkle  the  top  lightly  with  a  very  little 
Parmesan  cheese;  place  in  the  oven  for  two  seconds,  then  serve. 

Omelet  with  Bum  or  Brandy. — Make  a  sweet  omelet  as 
described,  and  when  completed  pour  around  and  over  it  the 
liquor  and  set  on  fire,  and  serve  while  liquor  is  burning. 

Eggs  a  la  Gordon. — Cut  six  hard-boiled  eggs  lengthwise, 
remove  the  yolks,  and  place  them  in  a  bowl  with  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  good  butter,  half-teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence.  Beat 
well  together  and  fill  the  whites  with  it,  besprinkle  with  bread 
crumbs  and  pour  over  a  few  drops  of  clarified  butter ;  put  them 
in  a  buttered  dish  and  place  in  oven  for  three  or  four  minutes, 
and  serve  with  some  madeira  sauce  (see  page  210). 


MEATS. 


BEEF. 

Boast  Beef. — Roast  beef  can  be  prepared  before  an  ordinary 
range  or  cooking  stove  by  using  a  tin  case,  open  on  the  side 
toward  the  fire,  called  a  Dutch  oven  ;  any  large  box  of  tin  bright 
enough  to  reflect  the  heat  will  serve  for  this  purpose,  if  it  has  a 
bottom  tight  enough  to  retain  the  drippings  from  the  meat. 
The  regular  Dutch  oven  is  provided  with  a  hook,  upon  which 
the  meat  is  hung ;  if  it  has  to  be  otherwise  supported,  the  best 
method  is  by  a  rack,  which  will  raise  the  meat  to  about  the  mid- 
dle of  the  oven,  where  the  heat  is  the  most  regular.  Wipe  the 
beef  with  a  wet  towel  after  it  has  been  trimmed  by  the  butcher, 
suspend  it  in  the  Dutch  oven,  and  place  it  before  the  fire  where  it 
will  brown  quickly;  after  it  is  brown,  season  it  with  salt  and 
pepper;  if  a  frothed  surface  is  desired,  dust  the  beef  with  dry 
flour,  and  then  moisten  it  with  drippings  every  fifteen  minutes, 
after  it  is  brown ;  allow  fifteen  minutes  to  a  pound  for  roasting 
beef  medium  rare  before  a  hot  fire.  When  the  beef  is  done,  put 
it  on  a  hot  platter,  and  quickly  make  the  gravy  as  follows,  or  do 
this  before  taking  up  the  beef:  Put  over  the  fire  in  a  frying  pan, 
dripping  pan  or  saucepan,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  beef  drippings 
and  one  of  dry  flour,  and  stir  them  until  they  are  brown ;  then 
gradually  stir  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  a  palatable  season- 
ing of  salt  and  pepper.  Let  the  gravy  so  made  boil  for  one  minute, 
and  then  serve  it  with  the  beef. 

Beef  a  la  Mode. — Take  a  large  piece  from  the  round  ;  make 
holes  in  it  and  put  in  each  hole  a  little  strip  of  fat  salt  pork ;  let 


270  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

each  end  project  out ;  then  put  the  meat  in  a  bowl  and  add  to 
it  one  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns,  one  teaspoonful  of  whole 
cloves,  half  a  cupful  of  sliced  carrots,  half  a  cupful  of  sliced  onions 
and  one-half  a  cupful  of  sliced  turnips  ;  do  not  use  salt ;  cover 
with  equal  parts  of  vinegar,  let  stand  several  hours — or  it  will  be 
better  for  standing  two  or  three  days  ;  take  it  out  of  the  pickle ; 
have  butter  hot  in  frying  pan,  lay  it  in  and  fry,  then  put  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour;  turn  it  over  and  over;  when  brown,  cover 
with  hot  water  and  cook  slowly.  Salt  to  taste. 

Beef  Croquettes. — Chop  very  fine  some  cold  cooked  beef, 
mix  with  it  about  twice  the  quantity  of  hot  mashed  potatoes  well 
seasoned  with  butter  and  salt ;  beat  up  an  egg,  and  stir  all  to- 
gether well ;  then  form  the  mixture  into  little  balls,  flatten  them 
a  little,  roll  in  egg  and  cracker  crumbs ;  fry  in  butter  until  they 
are  a  nice  brown  ;  serve  hot. 

Spiced  Beef. — Four  pounds  of  raw  beef  chopped  with  one- 
half  pound  of  suet;  add  one-half  pint  bread  crumbs,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter,  two  eggs,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-half  teaspoonful  pepper ;  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  summer  savory ;  mix  all  this  thoroughly  and  form  into  a 
loaf,  using  flour  to  bind  it ;  bake  in  a  pan,  and  baste  often  with 
butter  and  water.  Serve  cold,  cut  in  thin  slices ;  garnish  with 
slices  of  lemon. 

Pressed  Beef. — Boil  a  shank  of  beef  until  it  falls  from  the 
bone ;  remove  the  bone  and  boil  down ;  season  well  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  a  bit  of  sage  if  you  like ;  pour  into  a  bowl.  This 
is  excellent  cold. 

Beef  Pie  with  Potato  Crust. — Cut  in  small  pieces  enough 
cold  cooked  beef  to  half  fill  a  baking  pan,  put  the  pieces  in  a 
stew  pan,  and  make  a  nice  gravy  over  it ;  season  highly  with  salt 
and  pepper  and  butter  and  a  bit  of  sliced  onion,  cover  it,  and 
let  cook  gently ;  make  a  rich  biscuit  dough,  cover  bottom  and 
sides  of  baking  pan,  and  pour  in  meat  and  gravy  until  the  dish  is 


Meats:  Beef.  271 

half  full ;  then  fill  the  dish  with  potatoes  that  have  been  well 
mashed  and  beaten  up  with  milk  and  butter  until  very  light ; 
brush  over  with  a  beaten  egg  ;  place  in  oven  and  brown  ;  serve 
with  tomato  sauce. 

Pounded  Beef. — Boil  a  shin  until  the  meat  falls  readily  from 
the  bone ;  pick  it  to  pieces  ;  mash  it  very  fine  ;  pick  out  all  the 
hard  bits ;  set  the  liquor  away,  and  when  cool  take  off  all  the 
fat ;  then  boil  the  liquor  down  to  one  and  one-half  pints ;  then 
return  the  meat  to  it ;  while  it  is  hot  add  salt  and  pepper,  and 
any  spice  you  choose ;  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes,  stirring  all  the 
time ;  put  it  into  a  deep  dish  to  cool ;  cut  in  thin  slices,  and  use 
cold. 

Beefsteak  Pie. — Wash  the  meat  and  cut  into  small  pieces ; 
stew  in  enough  water  to  cover  until  nearly  cooked  ;  slice  six 
cooked  potatoes,  line  a  baking  dish  with  pie  crust  dough ;  put  in 
a  layer  of  the  meat  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  few  pieces  of 
onion  sliced  very  thin,  then  a  layer  of  the  potatoes  with  bits  of 
butter  over  them,  then  another  layer  of  the  meat,  and  so  on  until 
the  dish  is  full;  add  the  gravy,  having  first  thickened  it  with 
flour  ;  cover  with  a  top  crust,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  for  the 
steam  to  escape,  brush  a  little  beaten  egg  over  it,  and  bake  until 
brown. 

Fried  Beefsteak  with  Onion  Sauce. — Choose  a  tender  steak 
cut  from  the  round ;  if  the  beef  is  not  tender,  put  it,  early  in  the 
evening,  on  a  meat  dish  containing  sufficient  sweet  salad  oil  and 
vinegar  mixed  together  to  cover  the  dish,  and  thoroughly  moisten 
both  sides  of  the  beefsteak ;  turn  the  steak  over  at  bedtime.  In 
the  morning,  heat  a  frying  pan  hot  enough  to  sizz  when  the 
steak  touches  it ;  put  in  the  steak  and  quickly  brown  it  on  both 
sides ;  when  it  is  brown,  set  the  pan  where  the  heat  is  not  too 
great,  and  cook  the  steak  to  the  required  degree ;  meantime  fry 
the  onions  as  directed  in  the  recipe  given  below.  When  the 
beefsteak  is  done,  put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  season  palatably  with  salt 


272  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

and  pepper,  and  keep  it  hot.  Into  the  pan  where  the  beefsteak 
was  fried  put  the  fried  onions  and  all  the  gravy  they  yield;  add 
sufficient  water  to  make  them  semi-liquid ;  break  them  up  with 
a  fork,  season  the  sauce  palatably  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour 
it  over  the  beefsteak  and  serve  the  dish  hot. 

Brown  Onion  Sauce. — Peel  one  pint  of  onions,  slice  them 
into  a  frying  pan  with  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and 
fry  them  brown ;  then  add  a  pint  of  any  good  gravy  or  broth 
and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper ;  serve  this  sauce 
with  broiled  or  fried  beefsteak  or  chops. 

Pan-broiled  Steak. — In  the  absence  of  the  necessary  appli- 
ances for  broiling  over  coals,  the  following  method  may  be 
employed.  Heat  a  clean  skillet  to  blue  heat,  rub  it  with  a  bit  of 
suet,  just  enough  to  keep  the  meat  from  sticking,  but  leave  no  fat 
in  the  pan.  Lay  in  the  steak,  pressing  it  down  to  the  pan,  and 
sear  quickly  on  one  side  ;  turn  and  without  cutting  into  the  meat 
sear  upon  the  other.  Keep  the  skillet  hot,  but  do  not  scorch ; 
cook  from  five  to  ten  minutes,  turning  frequently,  so  as  not  to 
allow  the  juices  to  escape.  Add  no  salt  until  done.  Serve  on 
hot  plates.  This  method  is  not  frying,  and  requires  the  addition 
of  no  water,  butter  or  stock. 

Beef  Omelet. — One  and  a  half  pounds  of  beefsteak  (the 
round),  take  it  raw  and  chop  it  fine ;  season  well  with  salt,  pep- 
per, sweet  majoram  or  summer  savory.  Beat  two  eggs  thoroughly 
and  add  to  the  beef;  mix  all  together,  roll  it  up  closely,  put  it 
into  a  dripping  pan,  and  bake  nearly  one  hour.  It  is  to  be  eaten 
cold  for  tea,  cut  in  thin  slices  like  tongue. 

Frizzled  Beef. — Shave  off  very  thin  slices  of  smoked  or  dried 
beef,  put  them  in  a  frying  pan,  cover  with  cold  water,  set  it  on 
the  back  of  the  range  or  stove,  and  let  it  come  to  a  very  slow 
heat,  allowing  it  time  to  swell  out  to  its  natural  size,  but  not  to 
boil.  Stir  it  up,  then  drain  off  the  water.  Melt  one  ounce  of 
sweet  butter  in  the  frying  pan,  and  add  the  wafers  of  beef. 


Meats:  Beef.  273 

When  they  begin  to  frizzle  or  turn  up,  break  over  them  three 
eggs  ;  stir  until  the  eggs  are  cooked  ;  add  a  little  white  pepper, 
and  serve  on  slices  of  buttered  toast. 

Stewed  Steak  with  Oysters. — One  pint  of  oysters,  one  and 
a,  half  pounds  of  beefsteak,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one  cup 
of  water,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Put  the  water  in  a  stew  pan, 
then  put  in  the  oysters,  rinse  them  around  well,  skim  out  the 
oysters,  and  place  the  liquor  on  the  stove  to  heat ;  as  soon  as  it 
comes  to  a  boil  skim  it  and  set  on  back  of  stove.  Put  the  but- 
ter in  the  frying  pan,  and  when  hot  put  in  the  steak ;  cook 
about  ten  minutes ;  take  out  the  steak,  and  stir  the  flour  into  the 
butter  in  the  frying  pan ;  stir  until  it  is  a  dark  brown,  then  pour 
in  the  oyster  liquor  and  let  boil  up  well ;  season  with  salt  and 
pepper ;  put  back  the  steak,  cover  and  simmer  thirty  minutes, 
then  add  the  oysters  and  lemon  juice.  Serve  on  hot  dish  ;  gar- 
nish with  pickles  and  parsley. 

Spiced  Beei  Tongue. — Rub  into  each  tongue  a  mixture  made 
of  half  a  pound  of  brown  sugar,  a  piece  of  saltpetre  the  size  of  a 
pea,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  ground  cloves;  put  it  in  a  brine 
made  of  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  salt  to  two  quarts  of  water 
and  keep  covered.  Pickle  two  weeks,  then  wash  well  and  dry 
with  a  cloth ;  roll  out  a  thin  paste  made  of  flour  and  water,  smear 
it  all  over  the  tongue  and  place  in  a  pan  to  bake  slowly ;  baste 
well  with  lard  and  hot  water ;  when  done  scrape  off  the  paste, 
and  skin. 

Boiled  Tongue. — Wash  a  tongue,  put  it  into  enough  cold 
water  to  cover  it ;  let  it  soak  over  night  The  next  morning 
wash  it,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  enough  fresh  cold  water  to  cover, 
and  boil  gently  until  very  tender;  then  remove  the  skin,  return 
it  to  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in,  and  let  it  cool  there.  This  will 
make  it  very  tender  and  juicy. 

Baked  Tongue. — Boil  the  tongue  as  directed  in  the  preceding 


274  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

recipe,  and  after  the  skin  is  removed,  dust  it  with  bread  or 
cracker  crumbs,  and  brown  it  in  a  hot  oven. 

Beef  Tongue  with  Tomato  Sauce. — Wash  the  tongue  well 
and  boil  until  tender,  then  peel ;  make  a  sauce  by  using  one  can 
of  tomatoes,  one  onion,  one  carrot,  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  flour;  cook  well  and  strain,  and  pour  over  the  tongue. 
Serve  hot. 

Beef  Heart. — Let  soak  in  a  weak  brine  twenty-four  hours. 
Put  it  in  kettle,  pour  boiling  water  over  it,  and  cook  four  hours. 
When  tender,  have  a  dressing  prepared  with  bread  crumbs, 
melted  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  stuff  the  heart.  Put  in  the 
oven  about  twenty  minutes  to  cook  the  dressing.  When  cold, 
slice  very  thin ;  serve  with  jelly. 

Liver  Bolls. — Pour  boiling  water  over  the  sliced  liver,  and 
let  it  stand  five  minutes ;  take  it  out,  cut  the  skin  off,  and  season 
each  slice  with  salt  and  pepper ;  also  put  a  small  piece  of  fat  salt 
pork  on  each  slice  and  roll  up.  Wind  a  string  around  it  and  tie. 
Have  ready  a  stew  pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  meat  drippings  or 
butter,  and  lay  the  rolls  in  and  brown  them ;  sprinkle  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  stir  them  around,  cover  with  water,  and  cook 
thirty  minutes ;  if  necessary,  season  more.  Serve  hot. 

New  England  Dumplings. — One  quart  of  corn-meal,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt ;  wet  up  with  cold  water  until  it  is  stiff,  make 
into  little  balls,  put  them  in  a  kettle,  pour  boiling  water  over 
them,  and  boil  hard  for  nearly  an  hour.  Serve  with  meats. 

Deviled  Kidneys. — One  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  pepper,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil, 
one  teaspoonful  of  vinegar.  Mix  all  this  together  and  dip  the 
sliced  kidneys  in  it  and  broil  them.  After  they  are  broiled  dust 
a  little  cayenne  pepper  on  them. 

Fricasseed  Tripe. — Cut  in  strips  one  pound  of  tripe ;  put 
over  it  a  cup  of  water,  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  rubbed  smooth 
with  one  large  teaspoonful  of  flour.  Season  with  salt  and 


Beef  from  French  and  Italian  Chefs.  275 

pepper ;  let  all  simmer  for  thirty  minutes.     Serve  hot.     It  is  im- 
proved by  putting  in  a  few  oysters  just  before  taking  up. 

To  Fry  Beef  Liver. — Put  the  liver  in  a  pan  and  pour  boiling 
water  over  it,  then  take  it  out,  peel  the  edges  off,  roll  in  flour, 
and  fry  in  butter.  Sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  it. 


FROM  FRENCH  AND  ITALIAN  CHEFS. 

The  sauces  mentioned  will  be  found  in  Fish  and  Meat  Sauces, 
pages  199-212.  As  garlic  and  leeks  are  disliked  by  Americans, 
we  have  omitted  same  in  all  foreign  dishes. 

Stewed  Beef  a  la  Francaise. — Prepare  two  pounds  of  small 
square  cuts  of  beef,  brown  them  with  two  onions  cut  in  square 
pieces,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  cooking  for  six  minutes. 
Stir  well  and  add  one  quart  of  white  broth  and  one  gill  of 
tomato  sauce.  Put  in  also  one  pint  of  raw  potatoes  cut  in 
quarters,  and  let  cook  thoroughly  for  twenty- five  minutes,  with  a 
bouquet  of  herbs,  a  good  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper, 
also  one  crushed  garlic ;  then  serve.  You  can  use  onion  instead 
of  garlic  if  preferred. 

Tripe  a  la  Mode. — Take  one  raw  double  tripe,  one  ox  foot, 
three  calf  s  feet,  all  well  washed  and  cleansed  several  times  in 
fresh  water,  cutting  them  in  pieces  two  inches  long  by  one  square. 
Have  an  earthen  pot  or  a  saucepan,  put  pieces  of  feet  at  the  bot- 
tom, cover  over  with  tripe,  then  a  layer  of  sliced  carrots  and 
onions,  and  continue  the  same  until  the  vessel  is  full,  carefully 
seasoning  each  layer.  Tie  in  a  cloth  a  sprig  of  thyme,  two  bay 
leaves,  twelve  whole  peppers  and  six  cloves ;  put  this  in  the 
middle  of  the  pot,  add  a  bottle  of  cider  or  white  wine,  and  a 
little  brandy;  lay  on  the  top  the  stalks  of  some  green  leeks, 
parsley  roots,  and  cabbage  leaves;  cover  and  fasten  it  down 


276  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

with  paste,  so  that  the  steam  cannot  escape,  and  leave  it  for 
about  ten  hours  in  a  very  slow  oven.  Take  it  from  the  oven  and 
serve  when  required. 

Tripe  a  la  Lyonnaise. — Cut  up  a  pound  and  a  half  of  double 
tripe,  also  two  onions,  and  brown  them  in  a  pan  with  one  ounce 
of  clarified  butter  until  they  assume  a  fine  golden  color.  Drain 
them,  put  them  back  on  the  fire,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar 
and  a  gill  of  Universal  sauce.  Stew  for  two  minutes  longer  ;  and 
serve  with  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley  sprinkled  over.  One  gill 
is  four  ounces,  or  one-half  coffeecupful. 

Roast  Beef. — Six  pounds  of  loin  or  fore-ribs  of  beef,  one-half 
cupful  water,  one-half  cupful  stock  or  bouillon,  salt  to  suit  taste  ; 
time,  one  hour.  To  roast  the  beef,  place  the  beef  in  a  stove  pan, 
sprinkle  some  salt  over ;  add  the  water  and  bake  in  a  warm  oven 
for  one  hour,  while  basting  frequently. 

The  best  sauce  to  be  served  with  the  roast  beef  is  its  own 
gravy,  which  you  make  as  follows :  When  you  have  taken  the 
roast  beef  from  the  pan,  add  one  glass  stock  or  water,  let  boil  for 
one  or  two  minutes  on  the  range  or  stove;  while  stirring,  skim 
the  floating  grease  off,  and  pass  this  gravy  through  a  fine  strainer. 

When  the  roast  beef  is  served  as  a  releve,  it  should  be  accom- 
panied by  some  vegetable  as  a  garnish,  especially  with  potatoes 
fried  in  butter,  potato  croquettes,  stuffed  tomatoes,  etc.  If  served 
as  a  roast,  it  should  be  accompanied  by  salad. 

Allow  about  fifteen  minutes  for  each  pound  of  meat  you  desire 
to  roast 

To  make  Stock  or  Bouillon  for  Soups  and  Cooking  Pur- 
poses.— This  is  very  nourishing  for  the  sick  or  convalescent,  and 
is  nice  to  use  in  cooking  meats  instead  of  using  water. 

To  prepare  one  gallon  of  bouillon,  to  be  kept  for  cooking 
purposes  :  Seven  pounds  beef,  two  pounds  veal,  half  a  fowl,  two 
carrots,  one  turnip,  some  celery,  one  onion,  six  quarts  water ;  time, 
from  four  to  four  and  one-half  hours. 


Beef  from  French  and  Italian  Chefs.  277 

Let  the  cold  water  from  the  faucet  run  freely  over  your  beef 
and  veal,  so  as  to  wash  them  from  all  impurities.  Put  them  in  a 
kettle  with  the  quantity  of  water  given — cold  water  and  not  hot  or 
warm,  taking  care  that  the  water  covers  the  meat  well  but  does 
not  reach  higher  than  two  inches  from  the  edge  of  the  kettle. 
Allow  to  boil  slowly  while  skimming  until  clear.  It  will  prove 
advantageous  to  add  from  time  to  time  one  spoonful  of  cold 
water,  which  will  facilitate  and  accelerate  the  separation  of  the 
scum.  When  the  stock  is  clear  (after  half  an  hour)  add  your 
vegetables,  which  should  have  been  pared  only  a  little  while  be- 
fore to  be  fresh,  and  let  boil  for  two  hours.  Take  the  veal  out 
of  the  pot,  as  all  juices  will  have  been  extracted  from  it,  add  the 
fowl  and  let  the  soup  boil  slowly  for  another  three  hours.  Take 
the  floating  grease  off,  and  pass  through  a  strainer  or  napkin. 

If  it  happens  that  your  stock  is  not  clear,  having  perhaps 
boiled  too  quickly,  you  may  clarify  it  as  follows:  Put  your 
kettle  on  the  corner  of  the  range,  so  that  though  very  hot  it 
doesn't  boil.  Break  into  a  bowl  or  saucepan  two  eggs  with 
their  shells,  beat  with  about  one-half  pound  chopped  meat  and 
one  cupful  of  water.  Add  while  beating  three  glassfuls  of  stock 
and  pour  the  whole  in  the  kettle  while  stirring.  Filter  stock 
through  a  piece  of  cheese  cloth ;  put  in  stone  crocks,  covering 
mouth  of  crocks  with  cotton  batting,  and  put  in  a  cool  place. 

Braised  Beef  a  la  Francaise. — Procure  a  rump  piece  of  beef 
weighing  three  pounds,  lard  it  with  four  large  pieces  of  salt  pork, 
seasoned  with  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley  and  a  crushed  garlic. 
Lay  the  beef  in  a  saucepan,  with  pieces  of  salt  pork  or  fat  at  the 
bottom,  add  one  sliced  onion,  the  round  slices  of  a  carrot,  one 
sprig  of  thyme  and  a  bay  leaf;  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and 
half  a  pinch  of  pepper ;  cover  and  brown  it  well  on  both  sides 
for  ten  minutes.  Add  a  cupful  of  white  broth  and  a  cupful  of 
Universal  sauce,  then  cook  for  one  hour.  When  finished,  lay  it 
on  a  dish,  garnished  with  six  stuffed  cabbages.  Skim  off  the  fat, 


278  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

strain  the  gravy,  and  pour  the  sauce  over,  or  else  serve  it  in  a 
separate  sauce  bowl. 

Minced  Beef  a  la  Italienne. — Cut  into  small  slices  a  piece  of 
beef  weighing  nearly  two  pounds ;  place  them  in  a  saucepan,  add 
two  chopped  onions  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil ;  allow  this  to 
brown  about  five  minutes,  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
and  three  cups  of  white  broth.  Stir  well,  add  two  sliced  toma- 
toes and  some  finely  shred  mushrooms,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  cover  the  pan  and  allow  to  cook  for  nearly  twenty-five 
minutes.  Then  serve  on  hot  dish,  garnished  with  pieces  of  fried 
bread. 

Beefsteak  Pie  a  la  Anglaise.— Slice  two  pounds  of  lean  beef 
in  half-inch  square  slices,  add  two  sliced  onions  and  stew  together 
in  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  for  ten  minutes ;  stir  in 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  mix  well ;  add  one  quart  of  water 
or  white  broth,  still  stirring.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
add  a  bouquet  of  herbs ;  let  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  take  out 
the  bouquet,  and  fill  a  deep  dish  with  the  above  preparation. 
Cut  two  hard-boiled  eggs  in  slices  and  lay  them  on  top,  cover 
with  pie  crust,  glaze  the  surface  with  egg  yolk,  and  bake  a  light 
brown  color  for  about  eight  minutes  in  the  oven ;  then  serve. 

Sirloin  Steak  a  la  Francaise. — Select  two  nice  sirloin  steaks 
of  one  pound  each;  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Baste  on 
both  sides  with  half  a  tablespoonful  of  oil,  and  put  them  on  a 
broiler  over  a  bright  charcoal  fire ;  broil  them  for  six  minutes  on 
each  side,  and  then  place  them  on  a  hot  serving  dish.  Pour  two 
cupfuls  of  meat  sauce  or  gravy  over  the  steaks,  being  careful 
to  have  the  rounds  of  marrow  on  top  of  the  steaks  unbroken, 
and  serve  very  hot  Broiled  sirloin  steaks  are  all  to  be  prepared 
as  above,  only  adding  different  sauces  or  garnishings. 

Smoked  Beef  a  la  Creme. — Take  from  one  to  one  and  a  half 
pounds  of  minced  smoked  beef;  put  in  a  stew  pan  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  cook  for  two  minutes,  and  moisten  slightly 


Beef  from  French  and  Italian   Chefs.  279 

with  half  a  cupful  of  cream,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Napoleon 
sauce,  and  serve  as  soon  as  it  boils.     No  seasoning  necessary. 

Sirloin  Steak  Larded. — Procure  a  piece  of  four  pounds  of 
tender  sirloin,  pare  and  trim  it  nicely,  taking  out  the  bones ;  lard 
it  over  the  top  with  a  small  larding  needle,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Line  a  baking  dish  with  some  pork  skin,  one  medium- 
sized  sliced  carrot,  half  a  bunch  of  well-cleaned  and  pared  parsley 
roots,  one  peeled  sound  sliced  onion,  one  sprig  of  thyme  and  a 
bay  leaf.  Place  the  sirloin  on  top,  and  put  it  in  the  oven  to 
roast  for  thirty  minutes.  Take  from  out  the  oven,  dress  on  a  hot 
dish,  set  on  back  of  stove ;  add  a  cupful  of  white  broth  to  the 
gravy  and  allow  to  boil  for  two  minutes ;  skim  off  the  fat,  strain 
the  gravy  into  separate  bowl,  and  serve. 

Tenderloin  Pique  a  la  Franchise. — Procure  four  pounds  of 
tenderloin ;  pare  it  well  and  lard  it,  using  a  fine  needle.  Line 
the  bottom  of  a  roasting  pan  with  some  pork  skin,  one  sliced 
onion,  one  sliced  carrot  and  half  a  bunch  of  well-washed  parsley 
roots.  Place  the  tenderloin  on  top ;  add  a  pinch  of  salt,  and 
roast  in  a  brisk  oven  for  thirty-five  minutes,  basting  it  occasion- 
ally with  its  own  juice.  Dish  it  up,  skim  the  fat  off  the  gravy, 
then  strain  it  over  the  fillet  and  pour  half  a  pint  of  good  madeira 
sauce  over,  and  garnish  with  potatoes. 

Tenderloin  Pique  a  la  Portugaise.— Roast  four  pounds  of 
tenderloin  as  above,  lay  it  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  six  stuffed 
tomatoes  around  the  tenderloin  at  equal  distances.  Put  in  a 
saucepan  half  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  and  allow  it  to  boil  for 
two  minutes ;  pour  into  a  sauce  bowl  and  serve  separately. 

Porterhouse  Steak.— Procure  two  porterhouse  steaks  of  one 
and  a  half  pounds  each — see  that  they  are  cut  from  the  short 
loin — flatten  them  well,  pare  and  trim,  and  season  with  one 
pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper.  Put  them  on  a  dish 
with  half  a  tablespoonful  of  oil;  roll  well  and  put  them  on  a  mod- 
erate fire  to  broil  seven  minutes  on  each  side.  Lay  them  on  a 


280  Cooking  and  Housekeeping'  Simplified. 

warm  dish,  pour  over  one  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter.  Garnish 
nicely  with  watercress  or  other  greens,  and  serve  hot. 

Hamburg  Steak. — Take  two  pounds  of  lean  beef — the  hip 
part  is  preferable — remove  all  the  fat,  and  put  it  in  a  chopping 
machine;  then  lay  it  in* a  bowl,  adding  a  very  finely  chopped 
shallot,  one  raw  egg  for  each  pound  of  beef,  a  good  pinch  of  salt, 
half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  a  third  of  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg. 
Mix  well  together,  then  form  into  six  flat  balls  the  size  of  a  small 
fillet.  Roll  them  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  them  in  the  pan 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  clarified  butter  for  two  minutes  on 
each  side,  turning  them  frequently  and  keeping  them  rare. 
Serve  with  any  of  the  meat  sauces  preferred. 

Corned  Beef  Hash  a  la  Polonaise. — Brown  two  onions  in 
a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter ;  add  one  pound  of  cooked 
well-chopped  corned  beef  and  one  pint  of  hashed  potatoes. 
Moisten  with  a  gill  of  broth  and  a  gill  of  Universal  sauce. 
Season  with  half  a  pinch  of  pepper  and  a  third  of  a  pinch  of  nut- 
meg; stir  well  and  let  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  serve  with 
six  poached  eggs,  and  sprinkle  over  with  a  pinch  of  chopped 
parsley. 

Roulade  of  Beef  a  la  Ecarlate. — Procure  six  pounds  of  fine 
brisket  of  prime  beef;  roll  it  up  as  close  as  possible,  so  as  to  have 
it  very  firm,  then  firmly  tie  it  around.  Put  in  a  saucepan  one 
sound  peeled  onion,  one  well-washed  and  scraped  sound  carrot, 
both  cut  into  thin  slices,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  one  bay  leaf,  three 
cloves  and  a  few  shreds  of  larding  pork.  Place  the  roulade  over 
all.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  the  pan  very  tightly  to 
prevent  steam  from  escaping.  Should  the  lid  be  loose,  place  a 
weight  on  top  of  it.  Place  it  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  let  it 
gently  simmer  for  twenty  minutes  in  all.  Remove  the  lid,  add 
two  glasses  of  white  wine  and  one  gill  of  white  broth.  Cover 
very  tightly  again,  place  in  the  hot  oven,  and  let  braise  for  fully 
two  hours.  Remove  from  the  oven,  untie,  dress  on  a  hot  dish. 


Meats;   Veal.  281 

Skim  the  fat  off  the  gravy,  strain  the  gravy  into  a  pan,  and  reduce 
it  on  the  hot  range  to  one-half.  Cut  up  an  ounce  of  cooked 
smoked  beef  tongue  into  cock's- comb  shape,  one  good-sized 
sound  sliced  truffle  and  six  mushrooms.  Place  all  these  in  a  pan 
on  the  fire,  with  half  a  wineglassful  of  madeira  wine,  letting  boil 
for  one  minute.  Strain  the  reduced  gravy  of  the  roulade  over 
this ;  add  half  a  gill  of  tomato  sauce  and  half  a  gill  of  Universal 
sauce  ;  cook  again  for  five  minutes,  then  pour  into  sauce  bowl 
and  serve  it  separately.  (See  Sauces,  pages  199-212,  for  white 
broth  or  any  other  sauce  mentioned.) 


VEAL. 

Veal  Roast. — Select  nice  solid  veal ;  put  in  dripping  pan  and 
pour  one  pint  of  hot  water  over  it.  Bake  thoroughly;  allow 
half  an  hour  to  a  pound.  Garnish  with  sprigs  of  parsley  and 
serve  with  currant  jelly. 

Veal  Pot-pie. — A  piece  from  the  rib  is  good  for  pot- pie.  Cut 
it  in  small  pieces  and  put  in  a  kettle.  Place  a  small  plate  in 
bottom  of  kettle  first,  pour  in  water  enough  to  cover  well;  season 
with  pepper,  salt  and  butter.  Half  an  hour  before  serving  chop 
in  small  pieces  of  biscuit  dough,  cover  closely  and  boil  for  twenty- 
five  minutes.  Take  out  with  a  skimmer  carefully.  Be  sure  the 
meat  is  well  covered  with  water  before  the  dumplings  are  put  in. 

Veal  Boll. — Two  pounds  pork  steak  chopped  fine,  three 
pounds  veal  chopped  fine,  ten  crackers  rolled,  one  tablespoonful  of 
parsley,  six  eggs,  salt  and  butter.  Mix  all  thoroughly  and  bake 
one  hour ;  spread  eggs  and  cracker  over  it,  and  set  in  the  oven 
to  brown. 

Marbled  Veal. — Take  some  cold  roasted  veal;  season  with 
spice ;  beat  in  a  mortar.  Skin  a  cold  boiled  tongue ;  cut  up  and 


282  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

pound  it  to  a  paste,  adding  to  it  nearly  its  weight  in  butter.  Put 
some  of  the  veal  into  a  pot,  then  strew  in  lumps  of  the  pounded 
tongue,  put  in  another  layer  of  the  veal,  and  again  more  tongue. 
Press  it  down  and  pour  melted  butter  on  top.  This  cuts  very 
prettily,  like  veined  marble. 

Braised  Veal. — Take  a  piece  of  the  shoulder  weighing  about 
five  pounds.  Have  the  bone  removed  and  tie  up  the  meat  to 
make  it  firm.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  half  an  egg,  together 
with  a  few  shavings  of  onion,  into  a  kettle  or  stone  crock  and  let 
it  get  hot.  Salt  and  pepper  the  veal  and  put  it  into  the  kettle, 
cover  it  tightly  and  put  it  over  a  medinm  fire  until  the  meat  is 
brown  on  both  sides,  turning  it  occasionally.  Then  set  the  kettle 
back  on  the  stove,  where  it  will  simmer  slowly  for  about  two 
hours  and  a  half.  Before  setting  the  meat  back  on  the  stove, 
see  that  the  juice  of  the  meat  together  with  the  butter  will  make 
gravy  enough,  and  if  not,  put  in  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot 
water.  When  the  gravy  is  cold  it  will  be  like  jelly.  It  can  be 
served  hot  with  the  hot  meat,  or  cold  with  the  cold  meat. 

Veal  (  ollops. — Cut  cooked  veal  in  pieces  about  the  size  of  an 
oyster,  rub  on  each  piece  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  mace,  dip  in 
beaten  egg,  then  in  cracker  crumbs,  and  fry  in  butter.  This  re- 
sembles oysters  very  much  both  in  looks  and  taste. 

Fried  Veal  Chops  with  Tomatoes. — Roll  the  chops  in  beaten 
egg  and  then  in  cracker  crumbs ;  put  in  frying  pan  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  beef  drippings,  and  when  hot  lay  in  the  chops,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  cook  until  they  are  well  done ;  take 
up  on  a  platter,  and  slice  in  the  grease  left  in  frying  pan  a  few  ripe 
tomatoes  ;  serve  all  from  the  same  platter. 

Veal  Scallops. — Put  a  layer  of  finely  chopped  cold  meat  in 
the  bottom  of  a  baking  dish,  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper  sprinkled 
over  it  and  a  few  bits  of  butter  added  ;  then  a  layer  of  bread 
crumbs  and  another  of  meat,  proceeding  in  the  same  manner 
until  the  dish  is  full,  the  upper  layer  to  be  crumbs  plentifully 


Meats:    Veal.  283 

moistened  with  milk  in  which  an  egg  has  been  beaten.  Before 
adding  the  top  layer,  pour  in  gravy  enough  to  keep  the  meat 
moist.  Bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Any  cold  meat  may  be 
used. 

Boiled  Fillet  of  Teal. — Select  a  nice  fillet,  wash  and  wipe 
dry;  prepare  same  as  for  roasting,  or  stuff  it  with  an  oyster  force- 
meat, cover  with  water  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  four  hours;  skim 
it  when  necessary.  Serve  with  cream  sauce  ;  garnish  with  celery. 
Boiled  tongue  should  be  served  with  it. 

Veal  Patties. — Cut  the  veal  into  very  small  pieces,  also  a 
little  salt  pork  cut  fine  ;  stew  together  for  fifteen  minutes,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  stalk  of  celery  chopped  coarsely ;  stir 
in  a  paste  made  of  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  the  yolk  of  one  egg 
and  milk,  to  make  a  thin  batter  ;  let  it  all  come  to  a  boil  and  it  is 
ready  for  the  patties.  Make  the  patties  of  a  flaky  crust,  as  for 
tarts ;  make  about  the  size  of  the  center  of  a  small  sauce  plate, 
or  about  three  inches ;  cut  half  way  through,  to  be  raised  and 
serve  as  a  cover  ;  put  a  spoonful  of  the  stew  in  each  crust,  lay  on 
the  top  and  serve.  Oyster  patties  may  be  made  the  same  way. 

Minced  Veal. — Chop  fine  three  and  one-half  pounds  of  a  leg 
of  veal;  add  one  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper,  one  tablespoonful 
of  salt,  one  nutmeg,  four  crackers  rolled  fine,  apiece  of  butter  the 
size  of  an  egg,  and  three  eggs  well  beaten ;  mix  well  together 
and  pack  closely  in  a  buttered  basin,  and  bake  slowly  for  two 
hours.  Then  turn  it  out,  and  when  cold  cut  in  thin  slices  for 
the  table. 

Veal  Omelet. — Take  three  pounds  of  veal  chopped  fine,  six 
rolled  crackers,  three  well-beaten  eggs,  two  large  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream,  and  one  spoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  white  pep- 
per ;  use  sage,  thyme  or  sweet  marjoram  if  you  like ;  mix  all 
well  together,  form  into  one  or  two  loaves,  set  in  oven.  Baste 
with  butter  and  water  while  baking;  bake  one  and  one-half  hours. 

Veal  Loaf, — Three  pounds  of  chopped   veal,   one  pound  of 


284  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

pork,  four  eggs,  one  dozen  crackers  rolled,  pepper,  salt,  and  a 
little  cinnamon  and  cloves  if  you  like.  This  must  be  mixed  up 
by  hand  and  packed  in  a  tin  pan.  Bake  one  hour.  While  bak- 
ing dip  off  the  fat  with  a  spoon. 

Stewed  Calf's  Liver. — Cut  the  liver  up  in  small  pieces,  pour 
boiling  water  over  it ;  drain  the  water  off  and  put  it  in  a  kettle, 
-boil  until  done,  season  high  with  salt  and  pepper,  thicken  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour  made  smooth  in  a  little  water. 

Calf  s  Liver  and  Bacon.— Slice  the  liver  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick  ;  pour  hot  water  over  it,  and  let  it  remain  for  a  few  minutes 
to  clear  it  from  blood  ;  then  dry  it  in  a  cloth.  Take  a  pound  of 
bacon,  or  as  much  as  you  require,  and  cut  the  same  number  of 
thin  slices  as  you  have  of  liver  ;  fry  the  bacon  to  a  nice  crisp  ; 
take  it  out  and  keep  it  hot ;  then  fry  the  liver  in  the  same  pan, 
having  first  seasoned  it  with  pepper  and  salt  and  dredged  in  a 
little  flour ;  lay  it  in  the  hot  bacon  fat  and  fry  it  a  nice  brown. 
Serve  it  with  a  slice  of  bacon  on  the  top  of  each  slice  of  liver. 

Brunswick  Stew. — Two  chickens  (squirrels  if  preferred),  one 
quart  of  tomatoes  peeled  and  sliced,  one  pint  of  butter  (or  Lima) 
beans,  six  potatoes  parboiled  and  sliced,  one  quart  of  corn  cut 
from  the  cob,  one-half  pound  of  fat  salt  pork,  one  teaspoonful  of 
ground  black  pepper,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  one  gal- 
lon of  water,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  white 
sugar,  two  cups  of  cream  or  milk,  two  heads  of  celery  cut  fine. 
Put  on  the  water  with  the  salt  in  it,  and  boil  five  minutes.  Then 
put  in  the  onions,  beans,  corn,  pork  or  bacon  cut  into  shreds, 
potatoes,  pepper  and  the  chickens.  Cover  closely  and  stew  two 
and  one-half  hours  very  slowly,  stirring  frequently  from  the  bot- 
tom. Then  add  the  tomatoes  and  sugar,  and  stew  an  hour 
longer.  Ten  minutes  before  you  take  it  from  the  fire,  add  the 
milk  and  celery.  Give  a  final  boil ;  taste  to  see  if  seasoned  to 
your  liking,  and  turn  into  soup  tureen.  It  is  eaten  from  soup 
plates. 


FROM  FRENCH  AND  ITALIAN  CHEFS. 

We  have  omitted  the  leek  and  garlic  commonly  used  in 
the  preparation  of  most  of  these  dishes;  the  sauces  and  herbs 
mentioned  can  be  found  in  Fish  and  Meat  Sauces,  pages  199-212. 

Broiled  Teal  Cutlets. — Cut  six  even  veal  cutlets  from  a  fine 
piece  of  the  loin  of  white  veal,  pare  them  and  flatten  them  slightly  ; 
lay  them  on  a  dish,  and  season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil.  Turn 
the  cutlets  around  several  times,  then  put  them  on  the  broiler  to 
broil  for  eight  minutes  on  each  side.  Remove  them  from  the 
fire  ;  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  spread  a  little  maitre  d'hotel 
butter  over  them  (see  page  2 1 2),  and  send  to  the  table. 

CalPs  Liver  Broiled  with  Bacon. — Take  a  nice,  tender, 
fresh  calf's  liver  weighing  a  pound  and  a  half;  pare  and  trim  off 
the  hard  portions  ;  cut  it  into  six  equal- sized  slices,  and  put  them 
on  a  dish.  Season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil ;  mix  well  together. 
Broil  for  four  minutes  on  each  side.  Arrange  the  slices  on  a  hot 
serving  dish,  and  decorate  with  six  thin  and  crisp  slices  of  broiled 
bacon.  Spread  a  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  over,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Calf's  Liver  Stewed  a  la  Italienne. — Cut  two  pounds  of  calf  s 
liver  into  small  pieces.  Put  them  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
clarified  butter  into  a  pan  on  the  hot  range,  with  one  peeled  and 
finely  chopped  sound  onion,  and  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic. 
Season  with  one  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper.  Cook 
well  for  five  minutes,  shuffling  the  pan  well  meanwhile,  then 
moisten  with  half  a  glassful  of  white  wine  and  a  gill  of  Universal 
sauce.  Add  six  chopped  mushrooms,  and  cook  once  more  for 
three  minutes.  Serve  with  a  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped 
parsley.  (See  page  208.) 


286  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

CalPs  Feet.--Split  three  calf  s  feet  in  two  ;  take  out  the  large 
bone,  and  put  them  in  fresh  water  for  one  hour.  Wash  thorough- 
ly, drain,  and  place  them  in  a  pan,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  and  three  quarts  of  cold  water.  Stir  well ;  add  a  gill  of 
vinegar,  one  onion,  one  carrot  (all  cut  in  shreds),  twelve  whole 
peppers,  a  handful  of  salt,  and  a  bouquet  of  herbs  and  cook  brisk- 
ly for  one  hour  and  a  half.  Drain  well,  and  serve  with  any  kind 
of  sauce  required. 

How  to  Blanch  Sweetbreads  or  Tongue. — Clean  and  trim 
three  pairs  of  fine  sweetbreads.  Soak  them  for  three  hours  in 
three  different  fresh  waters,  one  hour  in  each  water,  with  one 
pinch  of  salt  in  each  water.  Drain,  place  in  cold  water,  and 
blanch  them  until  they  come  to  a  boil.  Then  drain,  and  freshen 
them  in  cold  water.  Cover  with  a  napkin,  lay  them  aside  in  a 
cool  place,  and  they  will  then  be  ready  for  general  use. 

Sweetbreads  Braised. — Take  four  or  five  blanched  heart 
sweetbreads,  lard  the  upper  parts  slightly,  and  put  them  in  a  pan 
with  some  slices  of  pork  skin.  Add  half  a  sliced  carrot,  half  a 
sliced  onion,  and  a  bouquet  of  herbs.  Sprinkle  over  them  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and  cover  them  with  a  buttered  paper.  Reduce  to 
a  golden  color,  and  add  one  cupful  of  white  broth.  Cook  it  in 
the  oven  for  forty  minutes,  basting  occasionally  with  the  gravy, 
lifting  the  buttered  paper,  and  replacing  it  each  time  in  the  same 
position.  The  sweetbreads  will  now  be  ready  to  serve  with  any 
kind  of  sauce  or  garnishing  desired.  Always  place  the  sauce  or 
garnishing  on  a  hot  serving  dish,  and  lay  the  sweetbreads  over  it, 
then  send  to  the  table.  (See  herb  bouquet,  page  193,  and  white 
broth,  page  206.) 

Veal  Stew  a  la  Francaise. — Cut  three  or  four  pounds  of  lean 
veal  from  the  breast  or  shoulder  into  pieces,  and  place  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sweet  oil,  and  one  chopped  onion.  Cook  them  for  ten  minntes, 
stirring  occasionally ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  again, 


Veal  from  French  and  Italian   Chefs.  287 

pour  over  one  quart  of  white  broth.  Season  with  salt  artd  pepper, 
and  add  six  minced  mushrooms,  and  a  bouquet  of  herbs.  Cook 
for  forty  minutes,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkling  a  little 
chopped  parsley  over  it. 

Teal  Chops  a  la  Italienne  (entree). — Four  to  five  veal  chops, 
one  teaspoonful  bread  crumbs,  one  egg,  four  tablespoonfuls  but- 
ter, four  tablespoonfuls  cheese.  Dip  the  chops  in  beaten  eggs, 
roll  them  in  bread  crumbs,  mixed  with  minced  cheese  and  fry 
them  in  butter.  Place  the  chops  in  a  warm  dish,  pour  over  the 
butter  in  which  they  have  been  fried  and  serve  with  macaroni. 

Veal  Cutlets  a  la  Eugenie.— Chop  well  two  or  three  times  in 
the  machine  two  pounds  of  lean  veal,  from  the  hip  if  possible; 
place  the  meat  in  a  bowl  with  two  ounces  of  finely  chopped,  raw 
veal  suet.  Season  with  one  good  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of 
pepper,  and  the  third  of  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Add  half  a  cupful  of 
good  cream,  one  chopped  shallot  and  two  raw  eggs.  Mix  well 
together.  Shape  six  pieces  like  chops,  sprinkle  them  with  bread 
crumbs,  and  fry  in  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  clarified  butter 
for  four  minutes  on  each  side.  Serve  with  a  gill  of  any  kind  of 
sauce. 

Loin  of  Teal  with  Cream. — Five  pounds  veal  loin,  one  table- 
spoouful  butter,  one  and  one-half  tablespoonful  flour,  one  pint 
milk,  one-quarter  cup  grated  cheese.  Salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the 
taste.  Roast  the  loin,  and  in  the  meantime  prepare  a  cream 
sauce  as  follows :  Melt  in  a  saucepan  the  tablespoonful  butter  and 
mix  with  the  flour.  Add  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste,  then 
the  milk  ;  boil  six  minutes,  stirring  continually  ;  when  the  sauce  is 
quite  thick  place  it  aside  in  a  warm  but  not  too  hot  place.  Half 
an  hour  before  serving  carve  the  loin  in  thick  slices,  then  recon- 
struct the  whole  loin  by  placing  sauce  between  its  slices.  Pour 
the  remaining  portion  of  the  sauce  over,  sprinkle  the  grated 
cheese  on  this  and  bake  in  an  oven  and  serve  with  a  gravy  apart. 

Teal  Chops  with  French  Peas. — Five  to  six  veal  chops,  one- 


288  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

half  cup  of  butter.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  chops 
for  about  twenty  minutes  turning  them  frequently.  Place  chops 
on  a  warm  dish,  pour  over  the  sauce  in  which  they  have  been 
fried  and  serve  with  the  French  peas. 

Broiled  Teal  Liver. — Take  from  two  and  one-half  to  three 
pounds  of  veal  liver,  slice  in  small  pieces.  Dip  into  melted  maitre 
d'hotel  butter ;  let  broil  on  good  fire  and  serve. 

Baked  Teal  Liver.— Take  about  three  pDunds  of  liver  and 
lard  it  with  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  bacon  cut  in  long  strips ; 
put  in  a  pan,  add  one  ounce  of  butter  and  let  it  brown  on  both 
sides.  Add  a  half  glassful  of  white  wine  and  a  half  teacupful  of 
good  stock  or  bouillon.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the 
taste  ;  add  a  sliced  onion,  a  sliced  carrot.  Cover  the  pan  tightly 
and  allow  to  cook  slowly  for  about  one  and  one-half  hours, 
basting  frequently.  Take  out  the  liver,  serve  in  a  hot  dish  and 
pour  the  juice  over  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Broiled  Veal  Kidney. — Five  veal  kidneys,  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  butter,  one-half  handful  parsley.  Cut  each  kidney  in  two 
parts  endwise,  in  such  a  way  as  to  open  them  but  not  to  divide 
entirely.  Sprinkle  some  salt  and  pepper  over  them,  dip  them  in 
melted  butter  and  let  broil  on  bright  fire.  Add  a  little  lemon 
juice ;  serve  on  hot  plate  garnished  with  parsley  and  other  greens. 


LAMB   AND   MUTTON. 

Roast  Lamb. — After  a  quarter  of  lamb  is  trimmed,  wipe  it 
with  a  wet  towel,  put  it  in  front  of  the  fire,  or  in  a  very  hot  oven, 
and  brown  it  quickly;  after  it  is  brown,  season  it  with  salt  and 
pepper,  dust  it  with  flour,  and  baste  it  with  the  drippings  every 
fifteen  minutes,  if  a  frothed  surface  is  desired  ;  allow  the  lamb  to 
cook  about  twenty  minutes  to  a  pound.  Serve  the  lamb  with 


Meats:  Lamb  and  Mutton.  289 

gravy  made  by  browning  together  two  tablespoonfuls  of  its  drip- 
pings and  one  of  dry  flour,  and  then  stirring  with  them  a  pint  of 
boiling  water,  and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper ;  as 
soon  as  the  gravy  boils,  serve  it.  Mint  sauce  may  be  served  with 
roast  lamb,  made  by  mixing  together  a  cupful  each  of  vinegar 
and  sugar,  and  half  a  cupful  of  chopped  green  mint. 

Saddle  of  Lamb  Roasted. — The  saddle  of  lamb  is  simply 
the  two  loins  cut  off  before  the  carcass  is  split  open  down  the 
back ;  it  is  best  when  roasted  before  an  open  fire,  but  it  may  be 
nicely  cooked  in  a  very  hot  oven.  If  it  is  of  medium  size,  it  will 
cook  in  an  hour  and  a  half;  but  if  it  is  large,  it  will  require  nearly 
two  hours.  It  is  first  to  be  exposed  to  intense  heat  until  it  is 
browned;  then  it  is  to  be  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
every  fifteen  minutes  to  be  basted  with  the  drippings  which  fall 
from  it.  When  the  lamb  is  cooked,  dish  it  on  a  hot  platter,  and 
serve  cucumber  sauce  in  a  gravy-boat  with  it. 

Broiled  Lamb  Cutlets  with  Mint  Sauce. — Mix  together  on 
a  platter  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  finely  chopped  fresh  mint, 
one  of  sugar,  and  four  of  vinegar ;  lay  lean  lamb  cutlets  on  this 
dressing  or  pickle,  dust  them  with  pepper,  let  them  stand  half 
an  hour  and  then  turn  them  ;  at  the  end  of  the  hour  put  them 
without  wiping,  between  the  bars  of  a  buttered  double  wire  grid- 
iron, and  broil  them  quickly  over  hot  fire.  While  the  cutlets  are 
being  broiled,  turn  the  chopped  mint  from  the  dish  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
vinegar.  Let  these  ingredients  boil  up,  and  then  serve  the  sauce 
with  the  cutlets ;  the  broiled  cutlets  are  to  be  served  hot,  as  soon 
as  they  are  done,  on  a  hot  dish,  with  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  but- 
ter over  them. 

Lamb  cutlets  may  be  broiled  plain,  and  dressed  with  salt, 
pepper  and  butter. 

Mutton  Bolls. — Take  nice  mutton  steak ;  on  each  slice  lay  a 
spoonful  of  dressing,  made  with  bread  crumbs,  one  egg,  butter, 


290  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

salt,  pepper  and  a  little  sage.  Roll  the  mutton  over  it  and  tie 
together  to  keep  the  dressing  in  ;  put  a  little  hot  water  and  but- 
ter in  a  dripping  pan,  and  lay  the  rolls  in  and  bake  in  hot  oven 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour ;  baste  often ;  when  tender  take  up 
on  hot  platter;  thicken  the  gravy  with  flour  and  water,  and  pour 
over  the  rolls ;  garnish  with  parsley. 

Broiled  Mutton  Chops. — After  the  chops  are  trimmed,  put 
them  as  close  to  the  fire  as  possible,  and  quickly  brown  them  on 
both  sides  ;  after  the  chops  are  browned,  move  the  gridiron  con- 
taining them  far  enough  from  the  fire  to  prevent  burning,  and 
cook  them  to  the  desired  degree  at  a  hot  fire ;  chops  an  inch 
thick  will  cook  medium  rare  in  about  ten  minutes;  after  the 
chops  are  done,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  a  little 
butter  over  them,  and  serve  them  hot. 

Fried  Mutton  Chops. — Put  a  frying  pan  over  the  fire,  and 
heat  it  so  that  the  chops  will  siss  when  they  are  put  into  it. 
After  the  chops  are  trimmed,  put  them  in  the  hot  pan,  and  quickly 
brown  them  on  both  sides;  chops  generally  have  enough  fat  upon 
them  to  prevent  burning;  when  tlje  fat  is  excessive,  most  of  it 
should  be  cut  off,  and  tried  out  to  use  as  drippings ;  after  the 
chops  are  cooked  to  the  desired  degree,  season  them  with  salt, 
pepper  and  a  little  butter,  and  serve  them  hot.  If  the  pan  is  hot 
enough  they  will  cook  medium  rare  in  about  twelve  minutes. 

Koast  Lamb  with  Sorrel  Sauce. — Have  the  bone  cut  from 
shoulder  of  lamb  without  mangling  it ;  replace  the  bone  with 
crumbs  of  bread,  highly  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  tie 
the  roast  to  prevent  filling  from  falling  out ;  put  it  into  a  dripping 
pan  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  ;  when  the  meat  is  nearly  done  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper  and  cook  until  tender.  Serve  with  sor- 
rel sauce. 

Roast  Shoulder  of  Lamb. — A  nice  way  to  cook  a  shoulder 
of  lamb  is  to  bone  it,  and  fill  the  space  with  a  stuffing  made  of 
chopped  mushrooms,  parsley,  salt  pork,  cracker  crumbs,  some 


Meats:  Lamb  and  MtMon.  291 

sweet  herbs,  pepper  and  salt  and  a  raw  egg.  Braise  it  with 
some  good  stock  gravy,  and  send  it  to  the  table  surrounded  by 
spinach,  garnished  with  slices  of  egg. 

Leg  of  Mutton  with  Oysters. — Parboil  fat  oysters  and  mix 
with  them  some  parsley,  minced  onions  and  sweet  herbs  boiled 
and  chopped  fine,  and  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs.  Cut 
five  or  six  holes  in  the  fleshy  part  of  a  leg  of  mutton,  and  put  in 
the  mixture ;  dress  it  as  follows  :  Tie  it  up  in  a  cloth  and  let  it 
boil  gently  two  and  a  half  or  three  hours,  according  to  the  size. 

Braised  Leg  of  Mutton. — This  recipe  can  be  varied  either 
by  preparing  the  leg  with  a  stuffing  placed  in  the  cavity  after 
having  the  bone  removed,  or  cooking  it  without.  Having  lined 
the  bottom  of  a  thick  iron  kettle  or  stew  pan  with  a  few  thin  slices 
of  bacon,  put  over  the  bacon  four  carrots,  three  onions,  a  bunch 
of  savory  herbs;  then  over  these  place  the  leg  of  mutton. 
Cover  the  whole  with  a  few  more  slices  of  bacon,  then  pour  over 
half  a  pint  of  water.  Cover  with  a  tight  cover  and  stew  very 
gently  for  four  hours,  basting  the  leg  occasionally  with  its  own 
liquor,  and  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  as  soon  as  it  begins  to 
be  tender.  When  cooked  strain  the  gravy,  thicken  with  a  spoon- 
ful of  flour  (it  should  be  quite  brown),  pour  some  of  it  over  the 
meat  and  send  the  remainder  to  the  table  in  a  tureen  to  be  served 
with  the  mutton  when  carved.  Garnish  the  dish  around  the  leg 
with  potatoes  cut  in  the  shape  of  olives  and  fried  a  light  brown 
in  butter. 

Lamb  Sweetbreads  with  Tomato  Sauce. — Wash  the  sweet- 
breads well  in  salt  and  water  and  parboil  fifteen  minutes  ;  when 
cool,  trim  them;  have  in  frying  pan  just  a  little  butter,  lay  the 
sweetbreads  in,  and  toss  them  about  until  they  are  a  nice  brown. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  with  tomato  sauce.  See 
sauces. 

Scalloped  Mutton  and  Tomatoes. — Place  in  bottom  of  gran- 
ite baking  dish  a  layer  of  bread  crumbs,  then  a  layer  of  cold 


292  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

cooked  mutton  cut  in  thin  slices,  then  a  layer  of  tomatoes  peeled 
and  sliced ;  as  each  layer  is  placed  in,  season  it  with  salt,  pepper 
and  bits  of  butter ;  have  the  top  layer  of  tomatoes  spread  over 
with  bread  crumbs;  bake  forty-five  minutes  and  serve  at  once. 

Pressed  Lamb. — The  meat,  either  shoulder  or  leg,  should  be 
put  to  boil  in  the  morning  with  water  just  enough  to  cover  it ; 
when  tender,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  keep  it  over  the 
fire  until  very  tender  and  the  juice  nearly  boiled  out  Remove 
it  from  the  fire-place  in  a  wooden  chopping-bowl,  season  more  if 
necessary,  chop  it  up  like  hash.  Place  it  in  a  bread-pan,  press 
out  all  the  juice,  and  put  it  in  a  cool  place  to  harden.  The  pres- 
sing is  generally  done  by  placing  a  dish  over  the  meat  and  put- 
ting a  flat  iron  upon  that.  Nice  cut  up  cold  into  thin  slices,  and 
the  broth  left  from  the  meat  will  make  a  nice  soup,  adding  vege- 
tables and  spices. 


PROM  FRENCH  AND  ITALIAN  CHEFS. 

Mutton  Hash. — Chop  finely  two  medium-sized  onions  and 
fry  them  in  a  pan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  for  about 
four  minutes,  adding  about  two  pounds  of  cooked  mutton  that 
has  been  chopped  fine  and  about  one  cupful  of  cooked  hashed 
potatoes,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cut  up  two  raw  tomatoes, 
some  chopped  celery,  add  one-half  cupful  of  Universal  sauce, 
one- half  cupful  of  white  broth.  See  Sauces,  pages  206  and  208. 
Mix  well  together  and  cook  twenty- five  minutes.  Serve  with 
some  nice  garnish. 

French  Mutton  Stew  (entree). — Six  pounds  mutton  brisket, 
one  tablespoonful  butter  or  lard,  one  tablespoonful  flour,  eight  or 
ten  medium-sized  onions,  eighteen  or  twenty  potatoes,  one-half 
handful  parsley.  Cut  the  mutton  in  pieces  one-half  the  size  of 


Lamb  and  Mutton  from  French  and  Italian  Chefs.     293 

the  hand  ;  place  it  in  a  stew  pan  with  one  tablespoonful  fat,  and 
brown  awhile ;  then  add  flour ;  mix  well  and  add  just  enough 
stock  or  water  to  cover  the  meat.  Let  boil  while  skimming  for 
about  ten  minutes;  add  the  onions,  the  parsley  (tied  with  a 
thread) ;  let  boil  thirty  minutes  more ;  add  the  potatoes  cut  in 
quarters;  cook  again  slowly  for  one-half  hour  and  serve  in  a 
hollow  dish. 

Irish  Mutton  Stew. — Cut  in  square  pieces  three  pounds  of 
mutton ;  wash  well,  drain,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  covering 
with  fresh  water.  Let  them  come  to  a  boil ;  then  remove  into 
another  pan.  Clean  the  pieces  well  again,  return  them  to  the 
saucepan  and  cover  them  with  boiling  water.  Place  on  the  fire, 
seasoning  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg.  Add  two  carrots,  two  turnips, 
all  cut  up,  six  small  onions,  add  a  bouquet  of  herbs.  Let  cook 
for  twenty-five  minutes,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  potatoes  cut  in 
quarters.  Mix  of  each  one-half  cupful  of  water  and  flour. 
Strain  this  in  the  stew,  stirring  constantly,  and  cook  for  twenty- 
five  minutes  more.  Remove  the  bouquet,  skim  well  and  serve. 
(See  sauces  for  bouquet  of  herbs,  page  193.) 

Saddle  of  Mutton  Roasted.— For  six  persons.  Seven  pounds 
saddle,  one-half  cup  water,  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste. 
Trim  the  grease  and  take  off  the  skin  which  covers  the  back  of 
the  saddle ;  place  it  in  a  stove  pan ;  sprinkle  over  some  salt ; 
add  the  water  and  let  bake  in  an  oven  for  one  hour.  Serve  with 
potatoes  fried  in  butter  and  gravy  apart 

Leg  of  Mutton  a  la  Francaise. — For  six  persons.  Eight 
pounds  leg  of  mutton.  Time  about  one  and  one-half  hours. 
Pare  the  mutton  leg  and  let  it  roast  as  for  the  roast  beef,  and 
serve  with  potatoes  fried  in  butter  or  a  salad.  Time  about  one 
and  one-half  hours. 

leg  of  Mutton  a  la  Italienne. — Select  a  nice  leg  of  mutton, 
about  six  pounds.  Cut  off  the  shank  bone  and  make  incision  on 


294  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

the  first  joint,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  rub  over  leg  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter.  Put  in  a  pan,  adding  one  glass  of  water, 
and  roast  for  one  hour,  basting  occasionally  with  the  gravy  and 
turning  it  over  now  and  then.  Remove  from  oven  and  serve 
with  stuffed  tomatoes  and  some  rice,  pouring  over  gravy  after  it 
has  been  strained. 

Leg  of  Mutton,  Caper  Sauce. — Pare  a  nice  leg  of  mutton  as 
above,  put  it  on  to  boil  in  a  pot,  filled  with  slightly  salted  cold 
water,  add  a  bouquet  of  herbs  and  one  sliced  carrot.  Boil  one 
hour  and  a  quarter,  and  serve  with  half  a  pint  of  caper  sauce, 
made  by  putting  two  cups  of  hot  Hollandaise  sauce  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  light  handful  of  capers,  and  heating  thoroughly  for 
five  minutes  without  boiling.  (See  Hollandaise  sauce,  page  210, 
bouquet  of  herbs,  page  193.) 

Curry  of  Lamb  with  Asparagus-tops.— Have  three  pounds 
of  shoulder  of  lamb  cut  into  pieces  about  two  inches  square. 
Wash  well  in  fresh  water,  then  drain,  put  into  a  saucepan,  and 
cover  with  fresh  water.  Let  it  come  to  a  boil,  then  strain  through 
a  colander,  and  wash  again  in  fresh  water.  Place  the  pieces 
in  a  saucepan,  covering  them  with  boiling  water ;  season  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  six  small 
onions,  and  a  bouquet  of  herbs.  Put  the  lid  on,  and  cook  forty 
minutes.  Then  strain  off  the  liquor  into  another  saucepan  adding 
a  half  pint  of  Universal  sauce,  stirring  well  until  it  boils,  and  then 
let  it  stand  on  the  corner  of  the  stove.  Break  into  a  separate 
bowl  four  egg  yolks  with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  beaten  well 
together.  Add  this  to  the  sauce,  dropping  it  in  little  by  little, 
and  stirring  continually.  Pour  all  over  the  lamb,  and  add  two 
cups  of  cooked  asparagus- tops,  but  be  careful  not  to  let  it  boil 
again.  Serve  with  a  border  of  hot,  boiled  rice  all  around  the 
dish. 

Mutton  Chops. — Flatten  six  fine  thick  mutton  chops,  pare 
nicely,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dip  them  in  beaten 


Lamb  and  Mutton  from  French  and  Italian  Chefs.     295 

egg,  roll  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  and  place  in  a  pan  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  clarified  butter.  Cook  four  minutes  on  each 
side,  and  serve  with  a  nice  meat  sauce  and  parsley  and  lemon. 

Mutton  Chops  a  la  Francaise. — Select  eight  or  ten  small 
rib  chops ;  trim  off  the  end  of  the  bone,  cut  also  the  fat  from  the 
end,  leaving  just  the  solid  meat  attached.  Broil  the  chops  over 
a  good  fire  about  four  or  five  minutes  on  each  side,  turn  them 
frequently,  and  serve  with  potatoes  in  some  form  and  fresh  peas. 

Mutton  Kidneys  Saute,  Madeira  Sauce.— Pare  well  twelve 
mutton  kidneys  and  cut  them  into  slices.  Put  into  a  frying  pan, 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Mix  them  well  for  six  minutes.  Add 
one  cup  of  madeira  wine  sauce,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  add  another  small  piece  of  fresh  butter,  stir  well  again 
without  boiling,  and  serve. 

Mutton  Chops,  Bretonne. — Pare  six  nice  mutton  chops, 
season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  pour  a  few  drops  of  oil  over  each.  Broil  four  minutes  on 
each  side.  Arrange  them  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  half  a  pint 
of  puree  of  white  beans,  mingled  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  good 
hot  meat  glaze  (see  page  209). 

Chops  Soyer,  with  Potatoes. — Take  five  pounds  of  saddle 
of  mutton,  cut  and  saw  it  into  six  pieces  crosswise.  Flatten, 
pare  and  trim.  Season  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Broil  them  for  six  minutes  on  each  side, 
then  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  a  garnishing  of 
fried  potatoes  around  the  dish. 

Mutton  Kidneys. — Split  twelve  mutton  kidneys  in  two,  but 
do  not  separate  the  parts;  remove  the  skin,  place  them  in  a  deep 
plate,  and  season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  oil.  Roll  them 
well.  Take  six  skewers,  put  a  skewer  through  the  two  kidneys 
in  the  centre,  and  repeat  the  same  for  the  others.  Broil  four 


296  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

minutes  on  each  side.  Arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  gill  of 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  over,  and  cover  with  six  slices  of  broiled 
bacon. 

Haricot  or  Ragout  of  Lamb.— Select  a  fine  breast  or  a 
shoulder  of  lamb  weighing  about  three  to  four  pounds,  cut  it 
into  equal  square  pieces,  and  fry  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Add  five  small,  sound,  peeled  onions, 
and  when  browned,  after  about  ten  minutes,  add  in  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  stirring  well  for  two  minutes.  Moisten  with 
six  cupfuls  of  water  or  white  broth ;  stir  well,  adding  salt  and 
pepper  to  suit  the  taste,  and  a  bouquet  of  herbs;  cook  for  forty- 
five  minutes.  Two  minutes  after  it  begins  to  boil,  thoroughly 
skim  off  the  scum  on  the  surface.  Remove  the  bouquet  and 
pour  the  ragout  on  a  hot  dish.  Serve  with  cooked  lima  beans, 
on  one  side  of  the  dish,  and  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  carrots, 
cut  in  quarters,  on  the  other. 

Breast  of  Lamb. — Boil  three  medium-sized  breasts  of  lamb 
for  fifty  minutes  in  the  stock  pot,  then  the  bones  will  be  detached. 
Take  them  out,  put  the  meat  under  a  heavy  weight,  and  let  it 
thoroughly  cool;  then  pare  neatly.  Cut  each  breast  in  two, 
and  place  on  a  dish.  Season  them  with  a  good  tablespoonful  of 
salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  immerse  them  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil.  Roll  them  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  and  broil 
them  for  five  minutes  on  each  side.  Serve  them  with  some  nice 
meat  sauce  and  garnish  nicely. 

Lamb  Fries. — Skin  and  clean  well  six  lamb  fries,  cut  them 
in  slices,  and  put  into  a  bowl ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to 
suit  the  taste,  the  juice  of  one  half  of  a  lemon,  two  or  three  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  sweet  oil,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  mustard 
mixed  thoroughly  with  a  tablespoonful  of  meat  sauce.  Mix  all 
well  together,  roll  them  in  flour,  and  broil  five  minutes  on  each 
side.  Serve  in  a  hot  dish  with  slices  of  lemon  and  parsley.  You 
can  serve  on  separate  bowl  a  nice  hot  meat  sauce. 


Meats:  Pork.  297 

Lamb  Fries,  Tomato  Sauce. — Prepare  the  same  as  for  lamb 
fries,  only  dipping  the  slices  in  beaten  egg  instead  of  mustard, 
and  then  in  rasped  bread  crust.  Fry  them  in  hot  fat  for  six 
minutes,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  half  a  pint  of  hot  tomato 
sauce  (see  page  211).  You  can  prepare  all  lamb  fries  as  given 
here,  and  garnish  with  any  sauce  to  suit  the  taste, 


PORK. 

Boast  Pig. — About  three  or  four  weeks  is  the  right  age 
to  roast  whole ;  cut  off  the  toes,  leaving  the  skin  long  to  wrap 
around  the  ends  of  the  legs,  and  put  it  in  cold  water.  Make  a 
stuffing,  with  about  six  powdered  crackers,  one  tablespoonful  of 
sage,  two  of  summer  savory,  one  chopped  onion,  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  two  eggs,  with  pepper  and  salt.  Mix  these  together,  and 
stew  about  fifteen  minutes.  Take  the  pig  from  the  water,  fill  it 
with  the  stuffing,  and  sew  it  up.  Boil  the  liver  and  heart  with 
five  peppercorns,  chop  fine  for  the  gravy.  Put  the  pig  to  roast 
with  a  pint  of  water  and  a  tablespoonful  of  salt.  When  it  begins 
to  roast,  flour  it  well,  and  baste  it  with  the  drippings.  Bake 
three  hours.  Wheu  done,  place  it  on  a  large  hot  platter,  sur- 
rounded with  parsley  or  celery  tops.  Place  a  green  wreath 
around  its  neck,  and  a  sprig  of  celery  in  its  mouth. 

Roast  Pork. — For  roast  pork,  make  a  stuffing  of  crackers 
powdered  fine,  with  half  a  pint  of  cream,  two  eggs,  a  small  quantity 
of  summer  savory,  pepper  and  salt;  cook  about  ten  minutes. 
Take  the  leg  of  pork,  of  seven  or  eight  pounds  in  weight,  and 
raise  the  skin  off  the  knuckle,  and  put  in  the  stuffing,  then  make 
deep  cuts  in  the  thick  part  of  the  leg,  and  fill  them  also.  It 
must  be  floured  over,  and  a  pint  of  water  put  in  the  pan.  While 


298  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

roasting,  baste  it  often  with  the  drippings.  Cook  about  three 
hours  and  a  half  Skim  some  of  the  fat  from  the  gravy,  add  a 
little  flour,  and  boil  it  well  a  few  minutes.  Serve  with  apple 
sauce,  or  any  other  that  may  be  preferred. 

Pork  Chops  and  Fried  Apples. — Dip  some  chops  into  bread 
crumbs  and  lay  them  in  frying  pan,  sprinkle  with  pepper,  salt 
and  a  little  sage,  fry  until  they  are  well  done,  take  them  up  on  a 
hot  dish,  pour  out  some  of  the  grease ;  have  ready  some  sliced 
apples,  cut  aound  the  apples  so  the  core  will  be  in  the  center  oi 
each  slice,  then  cut  the  core  out,  lay  them  in  the  grease ;  when 
they  are  brown  on  one  side  turn  them  carefully  so  as  not  to  break 
them  ;  when  finished  cooking  serve  them  with  the  chops. 

Fresh  Pork  Pot-pie.— Boil  a  spare-rib,  after  removing  all 
the  fat  and  cracking  the  bones,  until  tender ;  remove  the  scum 
as  it  rises,  and  when  tender  season  with  salt  and  pepper ;  half 
an  hour  before  the  time  for  serving  the  dinner  thicken  the  gravy 
with  a  little  flour.  Have  ready  another  kettle,  into  which  re- 
move all  the  bones  and  most  of  the  gravy,  leaving  only  sufficient 
to  cover  the  pot  half  an  inch  above  the  rim  that  rests  on  the  stove; 
put  in  the  crust,  cover  tight,  and  boil  steadily  forty  five  minutes. 
To  prepare  the  crust  work  into  light  dough  a  small  bit  of  butter, 
roll  it  out  thin,  cut  into  small  square  cakes,  and  lay  them  on  the 
moulding  board  until  very  light.  No  steam  should  possibly 
escape  while  the  crust  is  cooking  and  by  no  means  allow  the  pot 
to  cease  boiling. 

Suckling  Pig,  Apple  Sauce.— Thoroughly  clean  the  interior 
of  a  small,  tender,  suckling  pig  (reserving  the  liver);  drain  it  well. 
Season  the  interior  with  two  pinches  of  salt,  one  good  pinch  of  pep- 
per and  the  third  of  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg.  Chop  up  the  liver 
very  fine,  and  fry  it  in  a  saucepan  with  half  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter for  five  minutes.  Stuff  it  with  some  forcemeat,  then  sew  up 
the  aperture  with  a  kitchen  needle.  Have  a  roasting  pan  ready, 
sprinkle  into  it  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  then  lay  in  the  pig 


Meats:  Pork.  299 

so  that  it  rests  on  its  four  legs.  Completely  cover  all  around 
with  a  buttered  paper,  then  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven,  and 
let  cook  for  two  hours ;  baste  it  frequently,  while  cooking,  with 
its  own  gravy.  Remove  it  to  a  hot  dish,  untie,  skim  the  fat  from 
the  gravy,  and  strain  the  lean  part  of  it  over  the  pig.  Serve 
with  hot  apple  sauce  in  a  separate  bowl. 

Pork  Cutlets. — Select  nice  fresh  cutlets,  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  have  a  beaten  egg  in  a  bowl,  and  in  another  dish  have 
some  bread  crumbs,  a  little  chopped  onion  and  sage ;  have  in 
frying  pan  some  hot  lard ;  dip  the  cutlets  first  in  the  egg,  then 
in  bread  crumbs,  and  lay  them  in  the  frying  pan,  let  them  fry 
about  thirty  minutes  or  until  they  are  thoroughly  cooked,  then 
take  them  out  on  hot  platter  ;  now  skim  the  gravy ;  sprinkle  in 
a  little  flour,  let  it  boil  up  and  pour  it  on  the  platter  around  the 
cutlets.  Apple  sauce  should  always  be  served  with  pork  cutlets. 

Phrs'  Feet  Pickled.  Take  twelve  pigs'  feet,  scrape  and 
wash  them  clean,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  enough  hot  (not 
boiling)  water  to  cover  them.  When  partly  done,  salt  them. 
It  requires  four  to  five  hours  to  boil  them  soft.  Pack  them  in  a 
stone  crock,  and  pour  over  them  spiced  vinegar  made  hot.  They 
will  be  ready  to  use  in  a  day  or  two.  If  you  wish  them  for 
breakfast  split  them,  make  a  batter  of  two  eggs,  a  cup  of  milk, 
salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  with  flour  enough  to  make  a  thick 
batter  ;  dip  each  piece  in  this  and  fry  in  hot  lard.  Or  dip  them 
in  beaten  egg  and  flour  and  fry.  Souse  is  good  eaten  cold  or 
warm. 

Broiled  Pigs'  Feet. — Proportions  for  six  persons  :  Six  pigs' 
feet,  two  onions,  two  carrots,  one  stalk  of  celery,  a  little  thyme, 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  bread 
crumbs.  Wash  and  clean  the  feet,  place  them  in  a  kettle  with 
the  onions,  carrots  and  celery  stalk  sliced,  some  thyme ;  cover 
with  cold  water  and  allow  to  cook  till  tender  for  about  four  hours. 
Cut  the  feet  in  two,  endwise,  dip  them  in  butter,  roll  in  bread 


300  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

crumbs  and  let  broil  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  with  mustard  and 
mashed  potatoes  or  other  vegetables. 

Braised  Ham  with  Madeira  Sauce.— Take  about  five  or  six 
pounds  of  cooked  ham.  Place  in  a  stove  pan  with  one  glassful 
of  bouillon  and  one  glassful  of  Madeira.  Cover  the  ham  with 
buttered  or  larded  paper  and  let  it  bake  in  moderate  oven  for 
about  forty-five  to  fifty  minutes,  basting  it  frequently  with  the 
gravy  ;  take  out  the  ham,  serve  on  hot  dish  ;  strain  the  gravy 
and  serve  in  a  separate  bowl. 

Boast  Ham,  Champagne  Sauce. — Boil  a  ham  exactly  as 
directed,  making  a  few  lengthwise  incisions  on  the  surface.  Dust 
the  top  with  a  little  powdered  sugar ;  arrange  it  in  a  roasting- 
pan,  then  place  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  with 
half  a  pint  of  champagne  sauce.  Champagne  sauce  is  made  by 
adding  a  little  sugar  and  a  glassful  of  champagne  in  nearly  two 
cupfuls  of  Universal  sauce  (see  page  208),  and  boiling  it  fifteen 
minutes. 

Stuffed  Fresh  Ham.— With  a  sharp  knife  cut  through  the 
rind  of  the  ham  in  narrow  strips  both  ways.  Then  make  deep 
incisions  through  both  sides  and  end,  and  fill  the  incisions  with  a 
dressing  made  of  bread  crumbs,  salt,  pepper,  summer  savory  and 
butter.  Press  it  well  in.  Then  rub  the  ham  with  salt,  and  cover 
with  sage  well  rubbed  in.  Place  in  the  oven  to  roast,  basting 
well.  It  requires  a  long  time  to  cook  and  must  be  thoroughly 
done.  When  done,  pour  oft  the  fat,  and  make  the  gravy  as  for 
other  meats. 

Potted  Ham. — Take  the  remains  of  a  boiled  ham,  cut  in 
small  pieces,  and  pound  it,  little  by  little,  in  a  mortar,  softening 
it  during  the  process  with  a  little  melted  butter.  Add  cayenne 
pepper  to  taste,  and  put  it  in  small  bowls,  glasses,  or  potting  jars, 
pressing  it  down  very  smooth.  Over  the  surface  pour  a  little 
more  melted  butter  ;  cover  tight,  and  set  away.  It  will  keep  for 
weeks.  This  is  a  nice  supper  dish. 


Meats:  Pork.  301 

To  Bake  a  Ham. — Choose  a  nice  ham,  let  it  soak  in  cold 
water  for  ten  hours,  then  wipe  it  dry.  Cut  off  all  poor  spots  and 
cover  with  a  thick  paste  made  of  flour  and  water.  Set  in  mod- 
erately heated  oven,  and  bake  for  five  hours  ;  when  done,  take 
off  the  crust  and  peel  the  skin  off  carefully.  Serve  it  glazed,  and 
garnish  with  cut  vegetable. 

Boiled  Ham. — With  a  sharp  knife  remove  all  mold  and  the 
hardened  piece  from  the  butt  end  of  the  ham ;  let  it  soak  in  cold 
water  for  two  hours,  then  place  it  in  a  kettle  and  cover  with  cold 
water,  let  it  boil  moderately,  allowing  twenty  minutes  for  each 
pound.  When  it  is  thoroughly  cooked  take  it  out,  peel  off  the 
skin  and  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  set  it  in  a  moderately  heated 
oven  for  one  hour.  It  will  be  delicious. 

Bologna  Sausage  (cooked). — Two  pounds  of  lean  pork,  two 
pounds  of  lean  veal,  two  pounds  of  fresh  lean  beef,  two  pounds  of 
fat  salt  pork,  one  pound  of  beef  suet,  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 
sage,  one  ounce  each  of  parsley,  savory,  marjoram  and  thyme, 
mixed.  Two  teaspoonfuls  of  cayenne  pepper,  the  same  of  black, 
one  grated  nutmeg,  one  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  one  minced  onion, 
salt  to  taste.  Chop  or  grind  the  meat  and  suet;  season,  and 
stuff  into  beef  skins ;  tie  these  up,  prick  each  in  several  places  to 
allow  the  escape  of  steam  ;  put  into  hot,  not  boiling  water,  and 
heat  gradually  to  the  boiling  point.  Cook  slowly  for  one  hour  ; 
take  out  the  skins  and  lay  them  to  dry  in  the  sun,  upon  clean 
sweet  straw  or  hay.  Rub  the  outside  of  the  skins  with  oil  or 
melted  butter,  and  place  in  a  cool,  dry  cellar.  If  you  wish  to 
keep  them  more  than  a  week,  rub  ginger  or  pepper  on  the  out- 
side, then  wash  it  off  before  using.  This  is  eaten  without  further 
cooking.  Cut  in  round  slices  and  lay  sliced  lemon  around  the 
edge  of  the  dish,  as  many  like  to  squeeze  a  few  drops  upon  the 
sausage  before  eating.  These  are  very  nice  smoked  like  hams. 

Sausage  Meat. — Take  two  pounds  of  lean  beef,  with  one  pound 
of  fat  pork,  both  chopped  very  fine ;  mix  with  this  three  tea- 


302  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

spoonfuls  of  salt,  five  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered  sage,  five  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  summer  savory,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  black  pepper, 
make  this  into  small  cakes,  and  fry. 

Scrappel. — Scrappel  is  a  most  palatable  dish.  Take  the 
head,  heart  and  any  lean  scraps  of  pork,  and  boil  until  the  flesh 
slips  easily  from  the  bones.  Remove  the  fat,  gristle  and  bones, 
then  chop  fine.  Set  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  was  boiled 
aside  until  cold,  take  the  cake  of  fat  from  the  surface  and  return 
to  the  fire.  When  it  boils,  put  in  the  chopped  meat  and  season 
well  with  pepper  and  salt.  Let  it  boil  again,  then  thicken  with 
corn-meal  as  you  would  in  making  ordinary  corn-meal  mush,  by 
letting  it  slip  through  the  fingers  slowly  to  prevent  lumps.  Cook 
an  hour,  stirring  constantly  at  first,  afterward  putting  back  on 
the  range  in  a  position  to  boil  gently.  When  done,  pour  into  a 
long,  square  pan,  not  too  deep,  and  mold.  In  cold  weather  this 
can  be  kept  several  weeks.  Cut  into  slices  when  cold,  and  fried 
brown  as  you  do  mush,  is  a  cheap  and  delicious  breakfast  dish. 

Country  Pork  Sausages.— Six  pounds  lean  fresh  pork,  three 
pounds  of  chine  fat,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  two  of  black 
pepper,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  pounded  and  sifted  sage,  two  of 
summer  savory.  Chop  the  lean  and  fat  pork  finely,  mix  the 
seasoning  in  with  your  hands,  taste  to  see  that  it  has  the  right 
flavor,  then  put  them  into  cases,  either  the  cleaned  intestines  of 
the  hog,  or  make  long,  narrow  bags  of  stout  muslin  large  enough 
to  contain  each  enough  sausage  for  a  family  dish.  Fill  these  with 
the  meat,  dip  in  melted  lard,  and  hang  them  in  a  cool,  dry,  dark 
place.  Some  prefer  to  pack  the  meat  in  jars  pouring  melted  lard 
over  it,  covering  the  top,  to  be  taken  out  as  wanted  and  made 
into  small  round  cakes  with  the  hands,  then  fried  brown.  Many 
like  spices  added  to  the  seasoning — cloves,  mace  and  nutmeg. 
This  is  a  matter  of  taste. 

Toad  in  the  Hole. — Make  a  batter  of  six  ounces  of  flour,  one 
pint  of  milk,  two  or  three  eggs,  a  little  lard,  salt  and  pepper  ;  put 


Meats:   Pork.  303 

into  it  a  pound  of  beef  sausages,  and  bake  for  an  hour.  Instead 
of  beef  sausages,  slices  of  any  meat  you  have,  or  half  a  pound  ot 
pork  sausages,  or  a  few  oysters  with  meat  trimmings,  may  be 
used. 

Ham  and  Tongue  Toast.— Toast  a  thick  slice  of  bread  and 
butter  it  on  both  sides;  take  a  small  quantity  of  ham  or  tongue 
and  grate  it  and  put  it  in  a  stew  pan  with  two  hard-boiled  eggs 
chopped  fine,  mixed  with  a  little  butter,  salt  and  cayenne ;  make 
it  quite  hot,  then  spread  thickly  upon  the  buttered  toast.  Serve 
while  hot 


HORS  D'CEUVRES  OR  RELISHES. 


COLD    RELISHES. 

Cold  relishes  should  be  placed  on  the  table  before  serving  the 
meal,  as  they  add  to  the  decorative  effect.  They  should  also  be 
served  in  special  dishes  that  are  nicely  decorated,  or  of  a  unique 
design. 

Sardines. — Lift  the  sardines  carefully  out  of  the  box  to  avoid 
breaking  them,  and  lay  them  on  a  plate  ;  neatly  pare  off  the  loose 
skin,  then  dress  on  a  radish  dish  and  decorate  with  parsley. 

Radishes. — Select  three  or  four  nice  bunches,  being  careful 
to  select  them  round  and  firm.  Pare  off  all  the  leaves  and  stems 
except  the  two  prettiest  on  each  radish.  Cut  away  the  roots, 
and  also  a  little  of  the  peel  around  the  roots.  With  a  small,  sharp 
knife  divide  the  remaining  peel  into  five  or  six  equal-sized  leaves, 
beginning  at  the  root  end,  and  cutting  toward  the  green  stems, 
and  endeavor  to  give  them  as  nice  a  shape  as  possible. 

Celery  Bouquet. — This  is  a  very  nice  side  dish  to  decorate 
the  table.  Take  only  one  large  head  of  fine  celery.  Pare  off  the 
green  stalks,  and  cut  off  the  root  (reserving  that  part  to  make  a 
salad).  Cut  the  stalk  lengthwise  into  four  equal  branches.  Wash 
them  well  in  cold  water,  then  cut  each  one  into  pieces  about  as 
long  as  one's  finger ;  by  so  doing,  all  the  branches  will  be 
separated.  With  the  aid  of  a  small,  keen  knife  pare  the  thin  sides 
a  little,  making  five  or  six  slits  in  each  piece,  starting  from  the 
top,  downward,  leaving  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  inch  uncut ; 


Hors  d*  CEuvres  or  Relishes.  305 

place  them  in  cold  water  with  plenty  of  ice,  leaving  them  in  for 
two  hours.  Lift  it  from  the  ice  water,  artistically  dress  on  a 
round  glass  dish,  and  send  to  the  table. 

Anchoyies. — Take  a  pint  bottle  of  boned  anchovies,  drain 
them  on  a  cloth,  then  dress  them  artistically  on  a  radish  dish. 
Decorate  with  a  hashed  hard-boiled  egg  and  some  chopped 
parsley. 

Tomatoes  (side  dish). — Take  firm  red  tomatoes,  wipe  well, 
then  plunge  them  into  boiling  water  for  one  minute,  then  in  cold 
water  for  one  minute  and  peel  them.  Put  them  in  refrigerator 
and  when  thoroughly  cold,  cut  them  into  slices,  arrange  them  on 
a  radish  dish,  sprinkle  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  vinegar  over. 

A  Cold  Relish. — Cut  odd  scraps  of  meat  into  small  pieces. 
If  there  is  veal  and  ham  among  it,  so  much  the  better.  Add 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  farina,  some  parsley,  green  or  dried,  a 
little  sage,  a  little  celery,  parsnip,  or  carrot,  or  all  three,  chopped 
fine,  and  pepper  and  salt.  Cover  with  water,  and  stew  for  two 
hours,  very  gently.  Pour  into  a  dish,  and  when  cold  it  will  be 
solid,  and  should  be  cut  in  thin  slices  for  the  table. 

Celery  (in  glass). — Select  fine  white  celery,  pare  off  the 
green  stalks,  and  trim  the  roots  neatly.  Be  careful  to  save  the 
clear,  white  hearts.  Cut  each  plant  lengthwise  into  four  equal 
branches.  Wash  them  well  in  cold  water,  and  put  them  into 
clean  water  with  a  piece  of  ice  until  ready  to  serve  ;  then  arrange 
them  nicely  in  a  celery  glass,  or  dress  on  a  china  radish  dish,  with 
a  few  pieces  of  ice  in  the  center. 

Cucumbers. — Select  two  fine  cucumbers,  peel  neatly,  and  cut 
them  in  thin  slices.  Place  in  a  bowl  with  salt  sprinkled  over 
them,  and  put  in  refrigerator  for  three  or  four  hours,  drain  the 
liquid  off,  and  season  with  pepper,  a  tablespoonful  or  more  of 
vinegar  and  the  same  quantity  of  oil.  Dress  nicely  in  a  radish  dish. 

Herrings  (smoked). — Clean  well  and  cut  them  in  the  middle, 
take  the  backbone  and  the  skin  off,  cut  the  fillets  in  pieces  one 


306  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified, 

inch  wide,  dispose  upon  a  plate  and  pour  some  olive  oil  over 
them. 

Herrings  (salted). — They  should  be  freshened  for  two  days 
in  half  milk  and  half  water,  then  cut  in  the  middle,  take  off  the 
back  bone,  cut  the  fillets  in  pieces  one  inch  wide  and  arrange 
them  on  a  plate.  Pour  over  them  some  oil  mixed  with  vinegar, 
then  chop  apart  the  yolk  and  the  white  of  a  hard  egg,  also  some 
parsley  and  red  beets,  and  dispose  between  the  two  halves. 

Potted  Cheese. — One  pound  of  cheese  beaten  in  a  mortar; 
two  ounces  of  liquid  butter,  one  glass  of  sherry,  and  a  very  small 
quantity  of  cayenne  pepper,  mace  and  salt  All  should  be  well 
beaten  together  and  put  into  a  pretty  shaped  glass  potting  jar 
with  a  layer  of  butter  at  the  top.  It  makes  a  delicious  relish  for 
bread  or  toast. 


HOT  RELISHES. 

« 

Tomato  Toast. — Pare,  slice,  and  cook  green  tomatoes  until 
very  tender.  Add  sweet  cream — sweet  milk  will  do,  but  it  will 
need  more  butter  to  make  plenty  of  gravy  ;  season  with  pepper, 
salt  and  butter.  Have  the  bread  nicely  toasted  and  placed  in  a 
deep  dish,  and  pour  the  contents  of  the  frying  pan  over  it.  This 
is  an  excellent  way  to  use  up  dry  slices  of  bread. 

Caviare  on  Toast. — Prepare  six  slices  of  toasted  bread.  Put 
half  the  contents  of  a  small  box  of  caviare  into  a  pan  ;  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  and  heat  two  minutes  on  the  stove,  stir- 
ring it  carefully  meanwhile ;  pour  this  over  the  toasts,  and  serve 
on  a  dish  with  a  folded  napkin. 

AnchOYies  on  Toast. — Prepare  six  dry  toasts,  spread  over 
them  a  little  butter,  and  cover  each  with  four  half  anchovies. 
Place  the  toasts  on  a  tin  baking  sheet  in  the  oven  for  one  minute. 
Arrange  them  on  a  dish  with  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 


Hors  dy CEuvres  or  Relishes.  307 

Timball  of  Macaroni. — Roll  some  puff  paste  very  thin,  and 
cut  it  into  narrow  bands,  and  twist  each  into  a  kind  of  cord, 
which  coil  around  the  insides  of  small  butter  moulds.  Then  fill 
each  mould  with  macaroni,  cover  the  top  with  equal  quantities  of 
grated  bread  and  good  cheese  ;  put  them  into  a  warm  oven  and 
let  them  bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  turn  them  out  on  a  dish 
and  serve  them. 

Lamb  Sweetbreads  en  Petites  Caisses. — Clean  and  blanch 
five  or  six  lamb  sweetbreads.  Lay  them  aside  to  cool,  then  lard 
them  with  fresh  fat  pork.  Place  them  in  a  well-buttered  pan, 
adding  a  gill  of  chicken  broth  or  a  gill  of  maderia  wine.  Cover 
with  a  buttered  paper,  and  let  cook  to  a  golden  color  in  the  oven 
for  ten  minutes.  Then  lay  them  on  a  dish.  Put  two  ounces  of 
cooked  fine  herbs  and  four  ounces  of  well-reduced  Universal 
sauce  into  the  pan,  letting  it  cook  for  five  minutes.  Take  six 
small  boxes  of  buttered  paper  and  pour  a  little  of  the  gravy  at 
the  bottom  of  each ;  cover  with  sweetbreads,  and  place  them  on 
a  baking  dish ;  keep  them  for  five  minutes  in  an  open  oven,  then 
serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

Salpicon  of  Lobster,  Crawfish  or  Shrimps. — Put  two  cupfuls 
of  Napoleon  sauce  into  a  saucepan,  with  four  mushrooms  and 
the  meat  from  the  claw  of  a  cooked  lobster,  cutting  them  all  into 
dice-shaped  pieces.  Thicken  well  and  let  cook  for  five  minutes, 
and  serve.  If  a  lobster  cannot  be  obtained,  the  meat  of  three 
cooked  crawfish,  or  of  six  prawns  or  shrimps,  may  be  used 
instead. 

A  German  Relish. — Boil  eight  eggs  quite  hard,  and  when 
cold  cut  them  in  two  lengthwise.  Take  the  yolks  out  very  care- 
fully, pass  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  them  well  with 
half  a  pint  of  cream  (or  more  if  required)  and  then  add  pepper, 
salt  and  herbs.  Pour  this  sauce  into  a  very  flat  pie  dish  that  will 
stand  heat,  and  place  the  white  half  eggs  carefully  in  it,  arranging 
them  in  the  form  of  a  star,  or  any  pattern  preferred.  Fill  up  the 


308  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

» 

vacancy  left  in  them  by  the  yolks  having  been  removed,  with  the 
same  mixture,  and  strew  a  few  bread  crumbs  over  them.  Bake 
this  very  slightly,  just  enough  to  give  it  a  bright  yellow  color, 
and  serve  it  up  in  the  dish  in  which  it  has  been  baked. 

Cheese  Omelet.— Butter  the  sides  of  a  deep  dish,  cover  the 
bottom  with  thin  slices  of  cheese,  place  upon  this  very  thin  slices 
of  bread  well  buttered,  a  little  red  pepper  and  mustard,  another 
layer  of  cheese,  and,  just  before  putting  in  the  oven,  beat  the 
yolk  of  an  egg  in  a  cup  of  cream  and  pour  into  the  dish.  Bake 
half  an  hour  or  until  nicely  browned. 

Fondu  Straws. — Quarter  of  a  pound  of  puff  paste  and  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  good  cheese  grated  very  fine,  a  little  salt  and 
cayenne  pepper  mixed;  sprinkle  the  cheese,  salt  and  pepper  over 
the  paste,  and  roll  it  two  or  three  times ;  cut  it  into  narrow  strips 
about  five  inches  long ;  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven,  and  serve  very 
hot 

Salpicon  a  la  Montglas. — Mince  four  mushrooms,  the  breast 
of  a  small  cooked  chicken,  or  of  any  game,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  cooked  ham,  or  the  same  quantity  of  cooked,  smoked 
beef  tongue.  Put  all  into  a  saucepan,  adding  four  ounces  of  well 
reduced  Madeira  sauce  and  four  ounces  of  tomato  sauce  (see  page 
211);  let  cook  for  five  minutes;  then  use  when  needed. 

Coquilles  of  Chicken  a  la  Anglaise. — Fill  six  table  shells 
with  a  thick  chicken  salpicon,  sprinkle  the  tops  with  grated  fresh 
bread  crumbs,  spread  a  little  clarified  butter  over  each,  and  lay 
them  on  a  very  even  baking  dish.  Place  them  in  a  very  hot 
oven  until  they  are  of  a  golden  brown  color,  then  serve. 

Savory  Custard. — Beat  two  eggs  into  one  and  a  half  gills  of 
cream ;  season  to  taste  with  pepper,  salt,  cayenne,  chopped 
parsley,  sweet  herbs  and  shallot ;  add  to  these  some  chopped 
ham  and  tongue.  Pour  it  into  small  round  cups  and  steam  ten 
minutes. 

Pickled  Chicken. — Pluck  and  singe  a  chicken,  wipe  it  with  a 


Hors  d }  CEuvres  or  Relishes.  309 

wet  towel,  draw  it  without  breaking  the  intestines,  cut  it  in  joints, 
and  boil  it  until  quite  tender  in  just  enough  water  to  cover  it, 
with  a  level  tablespoonful  of  salt,  two  blades  of  mace,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  each  of  whole  cloves  and  peppercorns.  When  the 
chicken  is  tender,  remove  all  the  bones,  and  put  the  meat  loosely 
in  ajar.  To  enough  of  the  broth  to  half  fill  the  jar  add  an  equal 
quantity  of  vinegar  and  all  the  spice  ;  let  this  pickle  get  scalding 
hot,  and  then  pour  it  over  the  chicken.  When  the  pickle  is 
cold,  cover  the  jar.  The  chicken  will  be  fit  for  use  after  six 
hours. 

Canapees. — Canapees  are  small  slices  of  bread  slightly  hollowed 
out  on  the  upper  surface,  and  then  fried  golden  brown  in  plenty 
of  smoking  hot  fat.  The  little  hollow  is  filled  with  any  highly 
seasoned  meat,  and  the  canapees  served  either  hot  or  cold. 

Bouchees. — Bouchees  are  very  small  shells  of  puff  paste, 
filled  with  any  highly  seasoned  mince  or  ragout.  They  are 
served  both  hot  and  cold. 

Rissoles. — Rissoles  are  little  turnovers  of  puff  paste,  filled 
with  highly  seasoned  mince,  and  fried  like  croquettes. 

Girard  Boiled  Chestnuts. — A  most  delicious  hot  relish  is 
made  of  boiled  Italian  chestnuts,  served  with  fresh  butter.  After 
washing  the  chestnuts  cut  through  the  stem  end  of  the  shells 
with  two  cuts,  crossing  each  other,  so  that  the  shells  can  be  easily 
stripped  off;  tie  the  nuts  in  a  napkin,  and  boil  them  just  tender 
in  salted  boiling  water;  then  take  up,  turn  them  into  a  fresh 
napkin  laid  in  a  salad  bowl,  and  serve  the  nuts  hot,  with  fresh 
butter  and  salt.  If  served  at  dinner,  a  good  bordeaux  wine 
should  accompany  them,  or  baroli. 

The  Girard  Nut  Sandwich.— Use  very  thin  home-made 
bread,  cut  free  from  crust,  and  lightly  buttered.  Upon  each 
slice  lay  the  thinnest  possible  slice  of  Gruyere  cheese  ;  then  peel 
as  many  fresh  walnuts  as  will  cover  a  slice,  lay  them  upon  the 
cheese,  and  sprinkle  a  very  little  salt  over  the  nuts ;  lay  another 


3IO     •.  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

thin  shaving  of  cheese  on  the  nuts,  and  more  very  thin  buttered 
bread  ;  press  the  slices  of  bread  close  together,  to  hold  the  nuts 
in  place,  and  serve  the  sandwiches  with  a  fine  sherry.  This  may 
make  an  after-dinner  relish,  or  be  served  with  the  green  salad, 
dressed  with  plain  French  salad  dressing,  as  a  course. 

Welsh  Rarebit. — The  ordinary  American  factory  cheese  is 
excellent  for  rarebits,  because  it  grates  easily,  melts  quickly,  and 
blends  smoothly  with  the  other  ingredients.  To  make  a  rarebit, 
mix  the  following  ingredients  in  a  saucepan,  and  then  stir  them 
over  the  fire  until  they  are  smoothly  melted  together ;  meantime 
prepare  two  slices  of  toast  and  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish.  When 
the  rarebit  is  quite  smooth  pour  it  on  the  toast,  and  serve  it  at 
once.  The  proper  ingredients  for  a  rarebit  are :  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  cheese  grated,  two  ounces  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  ale,  a  saltspoonful  each  of  salt  and  dry  mustard,  a  quarter  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper  and  a  dust  of  cayenne. 

A  very  good  rarebit  is  made  by  substituting  for  the  ale  the 
yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  beaten  in  half  a  cupful  of  milk.  This 
rarebit  is  mixed  and  cooked  like  the  first,  and  is  very  tender  and 
delicate. 

Golden  Buck. — A  golden  buck  is  a  Welsh  rarebit  with  a 
poached  egg  laid  on  it. 

Yorkshire  Rarebit.— A  Yorkshire  rarebit  is  a  golden  buck 
with  a  slice  of  fried  or  broiled  bacon  laid  upon  the  poached  egg. 

All  the  rarebits  may  be  made  at  the  table  in  a  chafing  dish, 
if  the  cheese  is  grated  and  the  toast  prepared  in  the  kitchen. 
The  more  quickly  they  are  eaten  after  they  are  cooked  the  better 
they  are. 

Cheese  Straws  and  Crusts. — Cheese  crusts  and  cheese  straws 
make  an  acceptable  accompaniment  for  any  green  salad,  or  for 
celery.  To  prepare  cheese  straws,  sift  six  ounces  of  flour  on  the 
pastry  board,  make  a  hole  in  the  center,  into  which  put  the  yolk 
of  a  raw  egg  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  three  heaping 


Hors  ct' (Euvres  or  Relishes.  311 

tablespoonfuls  of  any  dry,  rich  cheese,  grated,  an  equal  quantity 
of  butter,  half  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  quarter  of  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  white  pepper,  a  dust  of  cayenne,  and  a  very  little  grated 
nutmeg.  Mix  these  ingredients  with  the  tips  of  the  fingers  to  a 
smooth  paste,  which  can  be  rolled  out  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick. 
If  the  cream  and  butter  do  not  furnish  moisture  enough  to  form 
the  paste,  add  a  very  little  cold  milk  or  water.  When  the  paste 
is  rolled  out,  cut  in  small  strips  about  six  inches  long,  with  a 
sharp  knife  or  with  the  pastry  wheel ;  lay  the  strips  or  straws  on 
a  buttered  baking  pan,  in  straight  rows,  a  little  apart,  and  set 
the  pan  in  a  moderate  oven ;  the  straws  will  cook  within  a  few 
minutes,  and  must  be  watched  carefully,  because,  if  they  are 
allowed  to  brown,  their  flavor  will  be  spoiled.  They  need  to 
bake  only  long  enough  to  slightly  harden  them,  but  not  become 
at  all  brown.  When  they  are  done  let  them  cool  on  the  pan, 
and  then  transfer  them  to  the  dish  on  which  they  are  to  be 
served,  taking  care  to  lift  them  by  slipping  under  them  a  flexible 
blade  of  a  long  thin  knife,  for  they  are  very  brittle. 

Cheese  crusts  are  small  slices  of  bread  covered  with  grated 
cheese,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  browned  in  a  hot  oven. 

Potted  Cheese. — Grate  two  pounds  of  old  cheese  ;  pound  it 
in  a  mortar  to  a  smooth  paste  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
a  saltspoonful  of  powdered  mace,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  glass 
of  sherry ;  pack  the  cheese  in  earthern  jars,  cover  it  with  clari- 
fied butter — which  is  butter  melted  at  a  gentle  heat,  and  poured 
carefully  away  from  the  sediment — keep  it  in  a  cool  place. 


SALADS. 


SALADES    AND    ENTREMETS. 

The  variety  of  salads  depends  solely  upon  the  taste  and  in- 
genuity of  the  housekeeper,  for  the  possibilities  are  illimitable. 
Those  made  of  uncooked  vegetables  should  always  be  fresh  and 
crisp.  If  they  are  wilted  in  the  least  degree,  they  should  be 
washed,  without  draining,  and  put  into  a  cool,  dark  place  to  re- 
vive. Before  using  them,  all  decayed  leaves  should  be  removed, 
and  the  moisture  absorbed  from  them  by  using  a  soft,  clean 
towel.  Cucumbers  should  be  peeled,  and  laid  in  cold  salted 
water  for  an  hour  before  serving  them,  and  then  shaken  dry 
in  a  clean  towel  and  dressed  with  pepper,  salt,  vinegar  and 
plenty  of  good  oil.  Radishes  should  be  similarly  dressed. 
If  they  are  very  pungent  in  taste  a  very  little  sugar  will 
modify  their  sharpness.  The  young,  white  leaves  of  oyster 
plant,  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  chopped  green 
onions,  both  being  well  cleansed,  make  a  good  salad.  Green 
peppers,  chopped  without  the  seeds,  and  added  to  cabbage 
shaved  fine,  are  excellent.  Nasturtium  leaves,  stems  and  buds, 
washed  and  chopped,  dressed  with  salt,  oil  and  vinegar,  are  very 
good ;  the  flowers  may  be  used  to  garnish  the  dish.  All  these 
salads  should  be  dressed  with  the  plain  French  salad  dressing. 
Enough  for  a  medium-sized  salad  may  be  made  by  mixing 
thoroughly  together  a  heaping  saltspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  level 
saltspoonful  of  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  six  of 
salad  oil. 


Salads.  3 1 3 

Tomatoes  may  be  sliced  after  washing,  and  served  with  plain 
salad  dressing,  or  peeled  and  served  with  mayonnaise.  They 
should  be  firm  and  ripe,  sliced  nicely,  and  kept  in  a  very  cold 
place  until  wanted  for  the  table. 

Celery  should  be  carefully  washed  in  plenty  of  salted  water ; 
the  green  leaves  and  stalks  trimmed  off,  and  either  used  fresh  for 
flavoring  sauces,  soups  and  forcemeats,  or  dried  by  gentle  heat 
for  later  use ;  the  roots  should  be  peeled,  dried,  and  then  grated 
and  mixed  with  salt  for  table  use.  The  white  stalks  are  best  for 
the  table ;  after  they  are  washed,  they  may  be  kept  in  a  cool, 
dark  place,  or  in  the  refrigerator,  near  the  ice.  Frozen  celery 
must  be  laid  in  plenty  of  cold  water  as  soon  as  it  is  brought  into 
the  house,  and  kept  there  until  all  the  frost  is  extracted ;  thawing 
it  by  heat  destroys  its  excellence. 

Lettuce  should  be  kept  on  or  near  the  ice  after  it  is  washed, 
or  in  a  cool,  dark  place,  entirely  wrapped  in  a  cloth  wet  in  cold 
water ;  if  it  is  enclosed  in  an  air-tight  box  after  it  is  wrapped  in 
the  wet  cloth,  it  will  keep  fresh  for  some  time,  care  being  taken 
to  renew  the  wet  cloth,  and  trim  off  all  defective  leaves. 

Watercress  Salad.— Carefully  wash  a  pint  of  fresh  water- 
cresses,  free  them  from  decayed  leaves,  break  them  in  lengths  of 
about  two  inches,  and  shake  them  dry  in  a  clean  towel ;  arrange 
them  neatly  on  a  cold  dish,  and  dress  them  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil,  one  of  vinegar,  and  a  dust  of  salt  and  pepper. 
Dandelion,  oyster  plant,  chicory,  escarole,  and  nasturtium  may 
be  served  in  the  same  way. 

French  Salad  Dressing. — This  is  the  usual  dressing  for  vege- 
table salads ;  enough  for  a  medium-sized  salad  bowl  can  be  made 
by  mixing  together  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  six  of  oil,  a 
saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper. 

Sliced  Cucumbers.— Peel  two  or  three  cucumbers,  cut  them 
in  thin  slices,  and  let  them  stand  for  an  hour  in  very  cold  salted 
water;  then  drain  them,  dry  them  on  a  towel,  and  dress  them 


314  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

with  plenty  of  oil  and  vinegar,  and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt 
and  cayenne  pepper ;  or  with  cream  salad  dressing.  Young 
onions  sliced  make  a  good  addition  to  cucumber  salad. 

Cream  Salad  Dressing. — Is  made  by  mixing  sour  cream  with 
enough  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt  to  season  the  salad  palatably. 

Pepper  Salad. — Remove  the  skin  from  six  green  peppers, 
and  chop  them  fine.  Peel  one  red  pepper,  and  chop  it  very  fine ; 
peel  and  chop  a  Spanish  onion,  weighing  a  quarter  of  a  pound  ; 
peel  and  chop  six  tomatoes ;  mix  with  these  ingredients  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt.  Carefully  separate  the  leaves  of  two  heads  of 
lettuce,  wash  them  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  dry  them  by 
shaking  them  in  a  towel.  Arrange  the  lettuce  and  chopped 
salad  in  a  salad  bowl  in  layers,  pour  over  it  half  a  cupful  of  salad 
oil,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  serve  it. 

Onion  and  Tomato  Salad. — Choose  half  a  dozen  firm,  ripe 
tomatoes  of  medium  size,  wipe  them  with  a  wet  towel,  and  slice 
them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  peel  a  medium-sized 
Valencia  or  Spanish  onion,  and  slice  it  very  thin ;  arrange  the 
sliced  onion  and  tomatoes  in  layers  in  a  salad  bowl,  and  pour  over 
them  a  plain  salad  dressing,  made  by  mixing  together  half  a  cup- 
ful of  salad  oil,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  half  a  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper ;  use  the  salad 
as  soon  as  it  is  made.  Young  green  onions  may  be  used  in  this 
salad. 

Tomatoes  with  Mayonnaise. — Raw  tomatoes  peeled  and 
sliced,  are  delicious  with  mayonnaise,  which  is  made  by  slowly 
mixing  three  parts  of  oil  and  one  of  vinegar  with  the  yolk  of  a  raw 
egg,  and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper ;  the  addition 
of  mustard  to  mayonnaise  is  a  question  of  taste.  The  egg  and 
seasonings  are  put  in  the  bottom  of  a  bowl,  with  a  very  little 
vinegar,  and  mixed  to  a  smooth  cream  ;  the  oil  and  vinegar  are 
then  added  alternately,  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  until  the  desired 
quantity  of  mayonnaise  is  made  ;  the  stirring  must  be  gentle  and 


Salads.  315 

constant,  and,  after  the  mayonnaise  is  made,  it  must  be  kept  in  a 
cool  place  until  it  is  used. 

Bice  Salad. — Two  cupfuls  of  boiled  rice,  one  cupful  of  red 
beets  boiled  and  chopped,  one  cupful  of  celery  cut  rather  small ; 
make  the  dressing  as  for  ordinary  salad.  Cream  is  better  than 
oil. 

Cabbage  Salad. — Three  eggs,  six  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet 
cream,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  and  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour  of  mustard,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  black  pepper,  the 
same  of  salt,  and  one  coffeecupful  of  strong  vinegar.  Let  all 
simmer  together  until  it  thickens  a  little.  Then  pour  it  over 
finely  shaved  raw  cabbage. 

Hot  Slaw. — Carefully  wash  a  head  of  firm  cabbage,  cut  it  in 
shreds,  and  put  it  over  the  fire  in  salted  boiling  water,  to  boil 
only  until  tender,  which  will  be  in  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes, 
according  to  the  age  of  the  cabbage ;  then  drain  it,  and  serve  it 
with  a  dressing  made  as  follows :  Melt  together  by  gentle  heat 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  cupful  of  rich  cream,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  add  them  to  the  boiled  cabbage ; 
season  it  palatably  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  it  as  soon  as 
it  is  prepared,  with  any  dish  of  fried  poultry  or  meat. 

Cheese  Salad. — Use  any  dry,  rich  cheese,  such  as  Edam, 
Roquefort,  or  Gorgonzola,  about  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  to  a 
head  of  lettuce  of  medium  size;  carefully  wash  the  lettuce,  tear 
the  leaves  apart  and  lay  them  in  a  salad  dish ;  break  the  cheese 
in  small  bits  and  scatter  it  among  the  lettuce;  pour  over  it  a 
plain  salad  dressing,  made  as  directed  above,  and  serve. 

Salad  of  French  Beans.— Pick  over  a  pint  of  French  haricot 
beans — the  large,  dark-red  variety ;  put  them  over  the  fire  in  a 
quart  of  cold  water,  and  let  them  begin  to  boil ;  then  add  a  cupful 
of  cold  water  and  let  them  boil  again  ;  every  fifteen  minutes  add 
more  cold  water,  and  continue  to  boil  the  beans  until  they  are 
tender ;  then  drain  them  and  let  them  get  quite  cold.  To  each 


316  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

pint  of  cold  boiled  beans  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
parsley,  and  a  plain  salad  dressing  composed  of  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  oil,  two  of  vinegar,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  with  half  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  pepper,  mix  these  ingredients  thoroughly,  pour  them  over 
the  beans,  and  serve  the  salad.  Cold  string  beans  make  a  good 
salad. 

Fruit  Salads. — The  fruits  which  we  are  accustomed  to  asso- 
ciate with  breakfast  or  dessert  may  be  used  as  salads;  the  only 
point  to  be  remembered  is  that  they  must  be  of  a  pronounced 
flavor  or  acid.  Orange  salad,  made  of  thinly  sliced  oranges 
freed  from  seeds,  and  dressed  with  salt,  cayenne,  lemon  juice  and 
oil  (one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  to  three  of  oil)  is  a  delicious 
accompaniment  for  broiled  or  roasted  game  or  poultry.  Lemon 
salad  is  composed  of  sliced  lemons,  the  seeds  being  removed,  and 
lettuce  carefully  washed  and  dried ;  the  dressing  is  salt,  cayenne 
and  oil.  Apple  salad  is  made  of  very  tart  apples,  sliced,  and 
mixed  with  young  green  onions  chopped,  and  plain  salad  dressing. 
In  summer,  gooseberries  or  barberries,  combined  with  young 
onions  or  cucumbers,  sliced  and  served  with  plain  dressing,  are 
very  good  with  boiled  mackerel.  Currants  mixed  with  well- 
washed  lettuce,  and  dressed  with  salt,  pepper  and  oil,  are  refresh- 
ing and  wholesome. 

A  delicious  breakfast  salad  is  muskmelon,  made  very  cold, 
cut  in  the  natural  divisions,  freed  from  seeds,  and  served  with 
salt,  pepper,  oil  and  lemon  juice — one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice 
to  three  of  oil.  Watermelon  with  mayonnaise  makes  a  good 
salad,  as  also  does  grape-fruit. 

Mayonnaise  for  Salad. — Make  a  mayonnaise  salad  dressing 
as  follows :  Put  into  a  bowl  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg,  one  level 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  a  dust 
of  cayenne  pepper,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar ;  quickly  mix 
these  ingredients  to  a  smooth  cream,  then  stir  into  them  salad 
oil  and  vinegar,  first  adding  the  oil,  two  or  three  drops  at  a  time, 


Salads.  317 

and  mixing  it  smoothly  with  the  first  named  ingredients  until  a 
thick  paste  is  formed ;  then  stir  in  a  very  little  vinegar,  using 
only  enough  to  make  the  mayonnaise  about  as  thick  as  rich 
cream ;  then  add  more  oil,  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  until  the  thick 
paste  is  again  formed ;  then  a  little  vinegar,  as  before ;  proceed 
in  this  way,  using  oil  and  vinegar  alternately,  and  stirring  the 
mayonnaise  constantly,  until  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  oil  and 
one-quarter  of  a  pint  of  vinegar  have  been  used.  When  done, 
the  mayonnaise  should  be  like  very  thick  cream;  if  it  should 
curdle  or  break  during  the  mixing,  put  it  in  the  ice  box,  or  in  a 
very  cold  place,  for  half  an  hour,  and  then  finish  it;  if  the 
weather  is  warm,  place  the  bowl  containing  it  in  a  pan  of  cracked 
ice  while  it  is  being  mixed.  After  the  mayonnaise  is  mixed, 
keep  it  in  a  cold  place  until  it  is  wanted  for  the  table. 

Sweetbread  Salad. — Blanch  sweetbreads  as  directed  in  this 
book,  and  continue  to  boil  them  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  cool 
and  slice  them.  Wash  for  each  pair  of  sweetbreads  a  head  of 
lettuce  in  plenty  of  cold  salted  water,  and  dry  it  on  a  clean  towel; 
put  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg  in  a  bowl ;  add  to  it  a  level  teaspoon- 
ful  each  of  dry  mustard  and  salt,  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar ;  mix  these  ingredients  to  a 
smooth  cream,  then  stir  in,  drop  by  drop,  enough  oil  to  form  a 
thick  paste ;  next  add  a  little  vinegar  to  liquefy  the  paste ;  then, 
alternately,  more  oil  and  vinegar  until  there  is  enough  dressing 
for  the  salad.  Arrange  the  lettuce  on  a  salad  dish,  put  the 
sweetbreads  on  it,  and  pour  the  dressing  over  them.  Serve  the 
salad  as  soon  as  it  is  made. 

Shad-Roe  Salad. — Wash  a  shad-roe  in  cold  water;  put  it 
over  the  fire  in  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes, 
or  until  the  grains  are  hardened ;  then  drain  it,  pour  a  little 
vinegar  over  it,  and  rub  it  until  the  grains  are  separated ;  peel 
and  slice  half  a  dozen  raw  tomatoes ;  thoroughly  wash  and  drain 
a  head  of  fresh  lettuce ;  put  the  lettuce  in  the  bottom  of  a  salad 


318  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

bowl,  then  the  tomato  and  shad-roe  in  layers,  and  pour  over  all 
six  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  and  two  of  vinegar  or  lemon  juice,  and 
serve  the  salad.  Cold  fried  or  broiled  shad-  roe  may  be  used  in 
this  dish. 

Shrimp  Salad. — Prepare  a  quart  of  shrimp  as  directed  in  the 
recipe  for  shrimp  sauce ;  wash  two  heads  of  fresh  lettuce ;  shake 
the  water  from  the  leaves,  and  arrange  them  on  a  salad  bowl; 
put  the  shrimp  in  a  little  heap  in  the  center  of  the  lettuce,  and 
pour  over  them  a  mayonnaise,  made  without  mustard,  as  follows: 
Put  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg  in  a  bowl,  stir  it  with  a  fork,  and  mix 
oil  with  it,  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  until  quite  a  thick  paste  is 
formed ;  next  slowly  mix  in  enough  vinegar  to  thin  it ;  then 
again  add  oil  and  vinegar,  stirring  the  dressing  gently  and  con- 
stantly, until  the  desired  quantity  of  mayonnaise  is  made,  using 
one- third  as  much  vinegar  as  oil ;  season  it  palatably  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  use  it  with  the  salad. 

Salad  a  la  Portuguese. — Cut  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  cooked 
beef  tongue  into  small  pieces;  cut  four  cooked  potatoes  the 
same,  also  one  peeled  apple,  half  a  cooked  beet  root,  and  one 
cooked  carrot.  Place  these  in  a  bowl,  adding  the  fillets  of  two 
boned  herrings  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  season  with  a  pinch  each 
of  salt  and  pepper,  a  dessertspoonful  of  diluted  mustard,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil.  Mix  all 
well  together,  then  transfer  to  a  salad  serving  bowl,  sprinkle  over 
a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley,  and  serve.  In  using  the  oil  pour  in 
a  few  drops  at  a  time. 

Handy  Chow-Chow  Salad. — Chop  together  very  finely  a 
head  of  cabbage,  six  green  peppers,  six  green  tomatoes,  add 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  mustard,  sufficient  salt,  vinegar  to  wet 
it,  and  if  desired  a  little  cloves  and  allspice.  It  is  then  ready 
for  use,  and  will  keep  a  long  time.  No  better  appetizer  can 
be  made. 

Oyster  Salad. — Take  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of 


3 1 9 

powdered  crackers,  half  a  cupful  of  vinegar,  half  a  cupful  of  but- 
ter, one  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  one  large  can  of  cove  oysters, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  the  oyster 
liquor  and  butter,  and  then  the  powdered  crackers ;  set  over  the 
fire  and  stir  constantly  until  nearly  done,  then  add  the  mustard 
and  vinegar ;  pour  over  the  oysters  as  soon  as  it  thickens ;  gar- 
nish with  parsley  and  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Egg  Salad. — Break  three  eggs  into  one  tablespoonful  of  hot 
salad  oil ;  stir  a  little  ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper ;  as  soon  as 
it  hardens  a  little,  turn  out  in  salad  dish,  sprinkle  over  the  top 
one  tablespoonful  of  grated  lemon  rind,  one  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  cucumber,  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil. 

Cold  Slaw  with  Celery. — Cut  a  small  head  of  cabbage  very 
fine,  add  two  stalks  of  celery  cut  fine  ;  season  with  pepper,  salt 
and  vinegar. 

Lettuce  Salad. — Four  hard-boiled  eggs,  one  cupful  of  cream 
(either  sweet  or  sour),  one  cupful  of  vinegar,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Wash  the  lettuce,  place  it  in 
the  salad  dish,  slice  the  eggs  over  the  top;  mix  the  other  in- 
gredients well  together  and  pour  over. 

Beef  Salad. — For  six  persons :  Two  pounds  of  cold  boiled 
beef,  four  hard-boiled  eggs,  one  green  onion,  half  a  handful  of 
parsley,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  Mix  in  salad  dish  the  above, 
as  follows :  slice  the  cold  boiled  beef  fine,  add  the  eggs  sliced, 
the  onion  chopped,  the  sweet  oil,  vinegar  and  seasoning,  sprinkle 
on  all  some  finely  chopped  parsley,  and  mix  thoroughly  and 
serve. 

Salad  of  Pigs'  Feet.— Three  pigs'  feet,  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  oil,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  one  tablespoonful  of  mus- 
tard, one-quarter  of  a  handful  of  parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to  suit 
the  taste.  Cut  the  cold  boiled  pigs'  feet  in  small  pieces,  and  put 


320  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

in  a  salad  dish  where  you  have  previously  mixed  the  other  in- 
gredients ;  mix  thoroughly  and  serve. 

Dressing  for  Lettuce. — Take  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled 
eggs,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonfui  of  made  mus- 
tard, four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  sweet  oil, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  one  raw  egg  beaten  to  a 
froth ;  rub  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  to  a  fine  powder,  then  add  the 
salt,  mustard  and  oil,  mixing  well  together  ;  then  add  the  cream, 
and  after  that  the  vinegar  and  raw  egg. 

German  Potato  Salad. — Wash  and  boil  four  large  potatoes; 
while  hot,  peel  and  slice  thin  with  one  raw  onion  ;  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  spider,  let  it 
brown,  pour  in  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  vinegar;  when  it  boils 
up,  pour  it  over  the  salad.  This  will  keep  a  week  if  stirred 
occasionally. 

Cold  Slaw. — Select  a  fine  bleached  cabbage,  cut  up  enough 
into  shreds  to  fill  a  large  salad  bowl,  or  according  to  the  quantity 
required ;  shave  very  fine,  and  after  that  chop  up,  the  more 
thoroughly  the  better.  Put  this  into  a  dish  in  which  it  is  to  be 
served,  after  seasoning  it  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Turn  over 
it  a  dressing  for  cold  slawas  below;  mix  it  well  and  garnish  with 
slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Dressing  for  Cold  Slaw. — Beat  well  two  eggs  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar;  add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  half  an 
egg,  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  a  little  pepper,  and  then  add  a 
teacup  of  vinegar.  Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  dish  over  the 
fire,  and  cook  like  a  soft  custard.  You  can  add  half  a  cupful  of 
thick  sweet  cream  to  this  dressing,  but  using  less  vinegar. 

Herring  Salad. — Take  four  medium-sized  smoked  herrings, 
lay  them  on  the  corner  of  the  stove  for  half  a  minute  on  each 
side,  then  tear  off  the  skin,  cut  off  the  heads,  and  split  them  in 
two;  remove  the  bones,  and  cut  them  up  into  small  square 
pieces.  Place  them  in  a  salad  bowl  with  half  a  hashed  onion, 


Salads. 

two  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  pieces,  a  cold  boiled  potato  cut  the 
same,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Season  with  half  a 
pinch  of  salt,  one  pinch  of  pepper,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar 
and  two  of  oil.  Mix  well  together  and  decorate  with  a  small 
cooked  beet  root  cut  in  slices,  also  twelve  capers,  then  serve. 

Tomato  Salad,  French  Dressing. — Take  six  fine  firm  red 
tomatoes ;  wipe  them  neatly,  and  plunge  them  into  boiling  water 
for  one  minute  ;  drain  in  a  cloth,  remove  the  skins,  pare  off  the 
stem  side,  let  get  cool,  and  then  cut  them  into  very  thin  slices, 
or,  if  preferred,  into  quarters,  keeping  them  in  a  bowl,  so  that  the 
juice  be  not  wasted.  Season  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch 
of  pepper,  a  wooden  saladspoonful  of  vinegar,  and  the  same 
quantity  of  oil.  Mix  thoroughly  together,  and  serve  as  cold  as 
possible.  A  teaspoonful  of  chopped  chives  may  be  added,  if 
desired,  which  will  give  a  delicious  flavor. 

Salad  a  la  Hollandaise. — Split  and  bone  a  dozen  anchovies, 
and  roll  each  one  up ;  split  and  bone  one  herring,  and  cut  up  into 
small  pieces ;  cut  up  into  dice  an  equal  quantity  of  bologna 
sausage  or  of  smoked  ham  ;  also  an  equal  quantity  of  the  breast 
of  cold  roast  fowl  or  veal;  add  likewise,  always  in  the  same 
quantity  and  cut  into  dice,  beet  roots,  pickled  cucumbers,  cold 
boiled  potatoes  cut  in  larger  dice  and  in  quantity  according  to 
taste,  but  at  least  thrice  as  much  potato  as  anything  else;  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  capers,  the  yolks  and  whites  of  some  hard-boiled 
eggs  minced  separately,  and  a  dozen  stoned  olives. 

Salad  Dressing  a  la  Creme. — One-half  pint  fresh  cream,  one 
tablespoonful  fine  flour,  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  stiff,  three 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  two  spoonfuls  of  salad  oil  or  soft  butter,  two 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  salt,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard.  Heat  cream 
almost  to  boiling  ;  stir  in  the  flour,  previously  wet  with  cold  milk; 
boil  two  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time  ;  add  sugar  and  take  from 
fire.  When  half  cold,  beat  in  whipped  whites  of  egg  ;  set  aside 


322  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

to  cool.  When  quite  cold,  whip  in  the  oil  or  butter,  pepper, 
mustard  and  salt ;  if  the  salad  is  ready,  add  vinegar  and  pour  at 
once  over  it. 

Salad  Dressing. — One  and  one-half  tablespoonful  mustard,  one 
teaspoonful  salt,  a  little  pepper ;  scald  with  hot  water  enough  to 
mix.  Use  melted  butter,  dropping  in  slowly  all  it  will  take  up  ;  put 
in  three  eggs,  beat  all  together ;  add  one-half  cup  vinegar,  two- 
thirds  cup  of  milk.  Put  on  the  stove  and  bring  to  a  boil.  Stir 
constantly ;  when  cool  use. 

Chicken  Salad. — One  fine  large  chicken  boiled  tender  and 
chopped,  twelve  eggs  boiled  hard,  six  stuffed  pickled  peppers 
chopped,  one  cup  melted  butter  or  salad  oil,  three  cups  chopped 
celery,  one  teaspoonful  ground  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
black  mustard  ground,  one  cup  vinegar.  Rub  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs  with  the  butter  or  salad  oil.  If  the  chicken  is  fat,  the  oil 
taken  from  the  water  in  which  it  is  boiled  is  better  than  the 
salad  oil.  Chop  the  whites  of  the  eggs.  Put  all  the  ingredients 
together,  and  work  with  the  hands  until  it  is  thoroughly  mixed. 
If  you  cannot  get  the  celery  use  white  cabbage,  and  put  celery 
seed  in  the  cup  of  vinegar  that  you  are  going  to  use,  and  let  it 
stand  over  night.  Other  pickles  can  be  used  with  some  pepper 
sauce  instead  of  the  stuffed  peppers.  This  recipe  will  make 
nearly  a  gallon  of  salad  and  will  keep  for  days  in  a  cool  place. 

Salmon  Salad. — One  can  salmon  cut  in  small  pieces,  twelve 
small  cucumber  pickles  chopped,  one  very  small  head  of  white 
cabbage  chopped  fine,  two  eggs  boiled  hard  and  chopped. 
Mix  all  this  together  thoroughly.  Heat  one  pint  of  vinegar 
scalding  hot,  seasoning  it  with  salt,  pepper  and  mustard  to  suit 
your  taste  and  pour  over  it. 

Chicken  Salad. — Take  a  young  tender  chicken  of  two  and 
a  half  pounds  ;  boil  it  in  the  soup  stock  for  one  hour,  or  should 
it  be  a  fowl  it  will  take  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
longer ;  when  cooked,  let  it  get  thoroughly  cold,  bone  the  chicken, 


Salads.  323 

cut  it  up  into  small  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  deep  dish;  season 
with  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar  and  six  leaves  of  chopped  lettuce,  or  a  few  leaves  of  the 
white  of  celery  in  preference,  cut  up.  Mix  well,  place  it  in  a 
salad  bowl,  and  cover  with  half  a  cupful  of  mayonnaise  dressing; 
decorate  the  top  with  a  chopped  hard-boiled  egg,  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  capers,  twelve  stoned  olives,  quarters  of  two  hard-boiled 
eggs,  and  six  small  white  lettuce  leaves  around  the  dish,  then 
serve. 

Crab  Salad.— Take  twelve  hard -shelled  crabs;  boil  them  in 
salted  water,  with  half  a  cupful  of  vinegar,  for  twenty  minutes; 
then  drain  and  shell  them.  Pare  off  the  gills ;  put  a  finger  in  the 
center,  to  prevent  the  sand  getting  into  the  cavity ;  wash 
thoroughly,  then  pick  the  meat  from  the  shells ;  put  in  a  salad 
bowl,  and  prepare  the  same  as  for  salmon  salad. 

Celery  Salad. — Take  two  large  and  white  heads  of  celery. 
Pare  off  the  green  stalks,  trim  the  roots  nicely,  and  cut  into  short 
shreds ;  wash  thoroughly  in  cold  water,  lift  it  up  with  the  hands, 
and  drain  it  in  a  cloth.  When  well  drained,  place  it  in  a  salad 
bowl,  and  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  pepper,  and 
one  and  a  half  wooden  saladspoonfuls  of  vinegar,  also  the  same 
quantity  of  oil.  Mix  well  and  serve. 

Lettuce  and  Tomato  Salad. — Take  a  white  head  of  lettuce, 
pare  off  the  outer  leaves  and  core,  wash,  drain  in  a  wire  basket, 
then  cut  the  leaves  in  two  and  put  them  in  a  bowl.  Have  two 
fine  firm  peeled  red  tomatoes,  cut  them  into  thin  slices,  and  place 
them  over  the  lettuce,  seasoning  as  follows :  Mix  a  pinch  of  salt 
and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper  in  a  wooden  saladspoonful  of  vinegar; 
add  a  spoonful  and  a  half  of  oil ;  mix  well  and  serve. 

Lamb  Tongue  Salad.— Cut  five  or  six  pickled  lambs'  tongues 
in  thin  slices,  lay  in  salad  bowl,  adding  two  cooked  potatoes 
sliced  fine,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  six  teaspoonfuls  of 
sweet  oil,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste ;  mix  thoroughly 


324  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

together,  sprinkle  chopped  parsley  over,  and  garnish  with  a  few 
lettuce  leaves. 

lobster  Salad  a  la  Napoleon. — Select  two  fine  freshly 
boiled  lobsters;  cut  them  in  two,  and  pick  out  all  the  meat  from 
the  shell,  carefully  abstracting  the  gall.  Cut  the  meat  into  small 
equal-sized  square  pieces,  and  place  them  in  a  salad  bowl ;  shell 
three  hard-boiled  eggs,  lay  them  on  a  plate,  and  with  a  knife  chop 
them  up  as  thoroughly  as  hashed  potatoes ;  then  add  this  to  the 
lobster,  also  two  finely  chopped  shallots,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
freshly  chopped  chives,  and  one  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  finely 
chopped  parsley.  Take  half  a  head  of  good  and  well- cleaned 
lettuce,  chop  it  up  very  fine,  add  it  to  the  lobster ;  then  season 
with  a  pinch  and  a  half  of  salt,  a  light  pinch  of  fresh  and  finely 
crushed  white  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  good  sweet  oil,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  Mayon- 
naise sauce  (see  page  209).  Gently  but  thoroughly  mix  the 
whole  together,  then  wipe  well  the  edge  of  the  salad  bowl  with  a 
napkin,  and  send  this  delicious  salad  to  the  table. 


VEGETABLES. 


All  vegetables  should  be  well  picked  and  washed.  A  very 
little  salt  should  always  be  thrown  into  the  water  in  which  they 
are  boiled.  A  steady  regular  fire  should  be  kept  up,  and  they 
should  never  for  a  moment  be  allowed  to  stop  boiling  or  simmer- 
ing till  they  are  thoroughly  done.  Every  sort  of  vegetable 
should  be  cooked  till  tender,  since  if  the  least  hard  or  under- 
done they  are  both  unpalatable  and  unwholesome.  The  practice 
of  putting  saleratus  in  the  pot  to  improve  the  color  of  green  vege- 
tables should  be  strictly  forbidden,  as  it  destroys  the  flavor,  and 
either  renders  them  flat  and  insipid  or  communicates  a  very  dis- 
agreeable taste  of  its  own.  Every  sort  of  culinary  vegetable  is 
infinitely  best  when  fresh  from  the  garden,  and  gathered  as  short 
a  time  as  possible  before  it  is  cooked.  They  should  be  all  laid  in 
a  pan  of  cold  water  for  a  while  previous  to  boiling.  When  done, 
drain  carefully  before  sending  to  the  table. 

POTATOES. 

Mashed  Potatoes. — Peel  the  desired  quantity  of  potatoes, 
slice  them  half  an  inch  thick,  put  them  into  salted  boiling 
water,  and  boil  them  until  tender ;  then  pour  them  into  a  col- 
ander, and  set  it  over  a  hot  dish  when  all  the  water  has  drained 
away ;  put  with  a  quart  of  potatoes  a  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg,  and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper 


326  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

and  a  grated  nutmeg,  and  rub  them  through  the  colander  with  a 
potato  masher.  Serve  the  potatoes  the  moment  they  are  mashed, 
or  they  will  grow  cold;  if  they  cannot  be  sent  to  the  table 
directly  they  are  done,  set  them  in  a  hot  oven  and  brown  them. 
Be  sure  to  serve  them  hot. 

If  the  egg  is  omitted,  the  potatoes  may  be  more  highly  sea- 
soned ;  or  a  very  little  milk  may  replace  it,  but  not  enough  to 
make  the  potatoes  too  moist. 

Cold  mashed  potatoes  may  be  rewarmed  by  stirring  them 
over  the  fire  with  just  enough  milk  to  soften  them,  and  a  palatable 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  ;  or  made  into  little  cakes  or  balls,  and 
fried  brown  in  hot  fat ;  or  mixed  with  finely  minced  meat  and 
warmed  in  a  frying  pan,  with  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper 
and  butter. 

Pommes  de  Terre  a  PEspagnol.— Have  ready  a  small  dish 
of  dried  bread  crumbs  finely  rolled  out,  also  a  couple  of  eggs 
beaten  in  another  dish.  Take  some  mashed  potatoes  warm,  with 
a  very  little  milk  and  butter  mixed  in.  Form  with  the  hands  into 
balls  or  an  oval  shape,  then  dip  them  in  the  egg  and  then  in  the 
bread  crumbs.  Place  in  a  pot  of  boiling  rendered  beef  suet,  let- 
ting them  remain  until  well  browned.  Then  take  out  and  place 
on  a  sieve  for  a  few  moments  and  serve. 

Potato  Straws. — Wash  a  pint  of  potatoes,  peel  them  very 
thin,  slice  them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  put  them  into 
plenty  of  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  them  until  they  are  ten- 
der, which  will  be  in  about  ten  minutes ;  when  the  potatoes  are 
tender  pour  them  into  a  colander  with  large  holes,  and  let  the 
water  drain  off;  when  the  potatoes  are  quite  dry,  sprinkle  over 
them  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  white 
pepper ;  hold  the  colander  over  one  end  of  a  large  platter,  and 
press  upon  the  potatoes  with  a  potato  masher,  moving  the  col- 
ander toward  the  other  end  of  the  dish  as  the  potatoes  are 
pressed  through  it,  so  that  they  will  fall  upon  the  dish  in  long 


Vegetables:  Potatoes.  327 

rows;  continue  to  move  the  colander  from  one  end  of  the  platter 
to  the  other  until  all  the  potatoes  are  pressed  through  and  laid 
in  even  rows  upon  the  dish  ;  then  wipe  the  edge  of  the  dish  with 
a  clean  towel,  set  in  the  oven  for  two  or  three  minutes  to  heat 
the  potatoes,  and  then  serve  them. 

Stuffed  Potatoes. — Prepare  and  bake  large  potatoes  of  equal 
size,  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe.  When  done,  cut  them 
evenly  three-fourths  of  an  inch  from  the  end,  and  scrape  out  the 
inside,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  skins.  Season  the  potato 
with  salt  and  a  little  thick  sweet  cream,  being  careful  not  to  have 
it  too  moist,  and  beat  thoroughly  with  a  fork  until  light;  refill 
the  skins  with  the  seasoned  potato,  fit  the  broken  portions  to- 
gether, and  reheat  in  the  oven.  When  hot  throughout,  wrap  the 
potatoes  in  squares  of  white  tissue  fringed  at  both  ends.  Twist 
the  ends  of  the  paper  lightly  together  above  the  fringe,  and  stand 
the  potatoes  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  the  cut  end  uppermost. 
When  served,  the  potatoes  are  held  in  the  hand,  one  end  of  the 
paper  untwisted,  the  top  of  the  potato  removed,  and  the  contents 
eaten  with  a  fork  or  spoon. 

Browned  Potatoes. — First  mash  the  potatoes,  then  put  them 
into  a  pan,  smooth  the  top,  and  brush  over  with  the  yolk  of  an 
egg,  or  spread  on  a  bountiful  supply  of  butter  and  dust  well  with 
flour.  Set  in  the  oven  to  brown ;  it  will  brown  in  fifteen  minutes 
with  a  quick  fire. 

Saratoga  Potatoes. — Saratoga  potatoes  are  peeled,  sliced 
very  thin,  and  soaked  over  night,  or  for  several  hours,  in  plenty 
of  cold  water ;  sometimes  a  small  bit  of  alum  is  dissolved  in  the 
water  to  harden  the  potatoes ;  before  they  are  fried,  they  are 
carefully  drained  or  dried  on  a  towel,  and  then  fried  in  plenty  of 
smoking  hot  fat,  a  few  slices  at  a  time.  They  are  served  either 
hot  or  cold. 

Scalloped  Potatoes  (Southern  style.) — Peel  and  slice  raw 
potatoes  thin,  the  same  as  for  frying.  Butter  an  earthen  dish, 


328  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

put  in  a  layer  of  potatoes,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  butter,  a 
bit  of  onion  chopped  fine,  if  liked  ;  sprinkle  a  little  flour.  Now 
put  another  layer  of  potatoes  and  the  seasoning.  Continue  in 
this  way  till  the  dish  is  filled.  Just  before  putting  into  the  oven, 
pour  a  quart  of  hot  milk  over.  Bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Cold  boiled  potatoes  may  be  cooked  the  same.  It  requires 
less  time  to  bake  them ;  they  are  delicious  either  way.  If  the 
onion  is  disliked  it  can  be  omitted. 

Potato  Puffs. — Use  mashed  potatoes ;  while  hot  form  in  balls 
about  the  size  of  an  egg.  Have  a  tin  buttered  and  place  the  balls 
on  it  When  all  are  ready  brush  them  over  with  beaten  egg, 
and  set  in  the  oven  to  brown.  When  done  slide  them  carefully 
upon  a  hot  platter,  garnish  with  parsley ;  serve  hot. 

Potato  Snowballs. — Cut  large  potatoes  into  quarters ;  if  small, 
leave  them  undivided  ;  boil  in  just  enough  water  to  cover.  When 
tender,  drain  and  dry  in  the  usual  way.  Take  up  two  or  three 
pieces  at  a  time  in  a  strong,  clean  cloth,  and  press  them  compact- 
ly together  in  the  shape  of  balls.  Serve  in  a  folded  napkin  on  a 
hot  dish. 

Potatoes  a  la  Creme. — Heat  one  cup  of  milk,  rub  together 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour  ;  stir  this  into  the  milk, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  add  two  cups  of  cold  boiled  potatoes 
sliced,  and  a  very  little  chopped  parsley.  Leave  over  the  fire 
until  the  potatoes  are  heated  through  ;  pour  in  deep  dish,  serve  hot. 

Potato  Fillets. — Pare  the  potatoes  and  cut  them  lengthwise 
about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  square  ;  let  them  lay  in  cold  water 
until  ready  for  use ;  then  drop  them  in  boiling  lard.  When 
nearly  done  skim  them  out  and  let  drain  ;  boil  the  lard  up  again 
and  drop  the  potatoes  in  once  more  and  let  them  fry  until  done ; 
dropping  them  in  the  hot  lard  the  second  time,  causes  them  to 
puff  up. 

Fried  Potatoes. — Have  ready  over  the  fire  a  frying  kettle 
half  full  of  fat;  peel  half  a  dozen  medium-sized  smooth  potatoes; 


Vegetables:  Potatoes.  329 

when  the  fat  is  smoking  hot,  slice  the  potatoes  into  it,  and  fry 
them  golden  brown  ;  when  they  are  brown,  take  them  from  the 
fat  with  a  skimmer,  put  them  into  a  colander,  dust  them  with 
pepper  and  salt,  shake  them  up,  and  serve  them  hot. 

Potato  Pie. — Make  a  thin  pie  crust  in  the  usual  way,  and 
line  with  it  a  basin  or  deep  pie  dish.  Fill  to  the  top  with  finely 
shred  potatoes,  among  which  mix  an  onion  or  two,  sliced  very 
thin,  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little  butter,  dripping,  or  lard.  Pour 
over  all  as  much  good  milk  or  cream  as  the  dish  or  basin  will  hold. 
Either  cover  with  a  crust  or  not,  according  to  option,  and  bake 
in  a  slow  oven. 

Potato  Croquettes. — Take  the  whites  of  two  eggs  well  beaten, 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  two 
cups  of  cold  mashed  potatoes.  Mix  all  together  thoroughly,  and 
make  into  small  balls,  dip  them  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  roll  in 
flour,  and  fry  in  butter. 

Crisp  Potatoes. — Cut  raw  potatoes  into  shavings ;  place  a 
few  at  a  time  into  boiling  fat.  Stir  them  about  until  they  are  a 
light  brown.  Skim  them  out,  sprinkle  salt  over  them  and  serve 
hot. 

Boasted  Potatoes. — Potatoes  are  much  more  rich  and  mealy 
roasted  than  cooked  in  any  other  way.  Wash  them  very  care- 
fully, dry  with  a  cloth,  and  wrap  in  tissue  paper ;  bury  in  ashes 
not  too  hot,  then  cover  with  coals  and  roast  until  tender.  The 
coals  will  need  renewing  occasionally,  unless  the  roasting  is  done 
very  close  to  the  main  fire. 

Potato  Cakes  with  Eggs.— Bake  nice  potatoes  till  perfectly 
tender ;  peel,  mash  thoroughly,  and  to  each  pint  allow  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs  which  have  been  boiled  until  mealy,  then  rubbed 
perfectly  smooth  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  and  one  half  cup  of 
rich  milk.  Add  salt  to  taste,  mix  all  well  together,  form  the 
potato  into  small  cakes,  place  them  on  oiled  tins,  and  brown  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes  in  the  oven. 


33O  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Broiled  Potatoes. — Take  warm  mashed  potatoes  and  pack 
solid  into  a  sheet  iron  bread  tin  (dip  tin  into  cold  water  before 
putting  in  potatoes);  when  cold  cut  into  slices,  pour  a  little  cream 
all  over  the  top,  and  brown  in  a  broiler  over  hot  coals. 

Vegetable  Hash. — One  quart  sliced  potatoes  cut  fine,  one 
chopped  carrot,  one  red  beet,  one  whole  turnip,  two  stalks  of 
celery.  Boil  the  above  first,  then  put  all  together  in  a  pan,  cover 
closely  and  set  in  oven ;  when  hot,  pour  over  them  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  pint  of  boiling  cream.  Mix  thoroughly  and  serve 
hot. 

Fancy  Potatoes. — Score  the  top  of  a  dish  of  mashed  potatoes 
deeply  in  triangles  and  crosses  with  the  back  of  a  carving  knife, 
and  then  put  in  oven  and  allow  to  brown  lightly. 

Stuffed  Sweet  Potatoes. — Wash  a  dozen  medium-sized  sweet 
potatoes,  which  should  be  rather  round  in  shape,  and  have  smooth 
skins ;  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  until  they  begin  to  soften ; 
when  the  potatoes  are  ready,  take  them  from  the  oven,  cut  a  slice 
from  one  side  of  each  which  will  permit  the  introduction  of  a  tea- 
spoon, and  with  the  spoon  scoop  out  the  inside  of  the  potato, 
taking  care  not  to  break  the  skin.  As  the  potato  is  withdrawn 
from  the  skin,  put  it  into  a  bowl ;  and,  when  all  the  skins  are 
empty,  season  the  potato  rather  highly  with  salt  and  pepper,  mix 
with  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  replace  it  in  the  skins; 
put  on  each  potato,  after  it  is  stuffed,  the  piece  of  skin  first  cut 
from  it,  and  then  return  the  potatoes  to  the  oven  to  heat 
thoroughly.  When  they  are  hot,  serve  them  in  the  skins.  The 
potatoes  may  be  served  when  they  are  tender  without  being 
stuffed. 

Roasted  Sweet  Potatoes. — Wash  clean  and  wipe  dry,  potatoes 
of  uniform  size,  wrap  with  tissue  paper,  cover  with  hot  ashes,  and 
then  with  coals  from  a  hardwood  fire ;  unless  near  the  main  fire, 
the  coals  will  need  renewing  a  few  times.  This  will  require  a 
longer  time  than  by  any  other  method,  but  they  are  much  nicer. 


Vegetables:   Potatoes.  331 

The  slow,  continous  heat  promotes  their  mealiness.  When  tender, 
brush  the  ashes  off  with  a  broom,  and  wipe  with  a  dry  cloth. 
Send  to  the  table  in  their  jackets. 

Boiled  Sweet  Potatoes. — Wash  the  potatoes,  using  those 
about  of  a  size,  so  that  they  may  cook  evenly ;  put  them  over 
the  fire,  either  in  hot  or  cold  salted  water,  and  boil  them  for  about 
twenty  minutes,  or  until  they  are  tender;  then  drain  and  serve 
them.  If  sweet  potatoes  are  at  all  watery,  they  can  be  greatly 
improved  by  putting  them  into  a  very  hot  oven  for  five  minutes 
after  they  are  boiled;  if  they  are  peeled,  put  them  in  a  dripping 
pan  with  a  little  butter,  and  brown  them  before  serving  them. 

Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. — Select  those  of  uniform  size,  wash 
clean,  cutting  out  any  imperfect  spots,  wipe  dry,  put  into  a 
moderately  hot  oven,  and  bake  about  one  hour,  or  until  the 
largest  will  yield  to  gentle  pressure  between  the  fingers.  Serve 
at  once  without  peeling.  Small  potatoes  are  best  steamed,  since 
if  baked,  the  skins  will  take  up  nearly  the  whole  potato. 

Sweet  Potato  Pudding. — Peel  and  wash  a  large  sweet  potato, 
wipe  it  dry  on  a  clean  towel,  and  then  grate  it  on  a  large  grater ; 
while  the  potato  is  being  grated,  heat  a  quart  of  milk ;  stir  a 
cupful  of  the  grated  potato  into  the  hot  milk,  and  let  it  boil ; 
meantime  beat  four  eggs  to  a  cream ;  add  a  heaping  tablespoonful 
of  butter  to  the  milk  and  potatoes,  and  take  them  off  the  fire ; 
stir  the  beaten  eggs  with  the  milk  and  potatoes,  season  the  pud- 
ding palatably  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  it  into  an  earthen  dish, 
and  bake  it  for  twenty  minutes,  or  until  the  custard  is  firm,  in  a 
moderate  oven  ;  serve  it  hot  as  a  vegetable.  The  same  pudding 
may  be  sweetened,  and  baked  to  use  for  dessert. 

Browned  Sweet  Potatoes.— Slice  cold  cooked  sweet  potatoes 
evenly,  place  on  slightly  oiled  tins  in  a  hot  oven,  and  brown. 

The  following  formulas  have  been  obtained  from  French  and 
Italian  chefs.  If  you  desire  to  cook  a  less  quantity  you  can  do 
so,  but  be  sure  and  use  the  same  ratio  of  ingredients  mentioned : 


332  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Potatoes  Maitre  d'Hotel. — Take  twelve  medium-sized  boiled 
potatoes,  slice  them,  and  put  in  a  pan  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter  or  lard,  and  a  sprinkle  of  chopped  parsley.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste,  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and 
sprinkle  a  very  little  grated  nutmeg  over  same.  Put  pan  on 
stove,  and  allow  just  to  warm  through,  stirring  well ;  then  pour 
over  one  cupful  or  more  of  cream.  Let  heat  again  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  serve. 

Potatoes  Parisienne. — Take  ten  medium-sized,  well-cleansed 
potatoes;  with  a  round  vegetable  spoon  cut  out  the  potatoes, 
or  cut  in  fancy  shapes ;  then  put  them  in  fresh  water,  wash  well, 
and  drain.  Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  pan  with  the 
potatoes,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  Place 
the  pan  in  the  oven;  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  on  a 
hot  dish  with  a  folded  napkin. 

Potatoes  a  la  Italienne. — Take  ten  medium-sized  boiled 
potatoes;  put  in  a  saucepan  and  mash  them.  Add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  piece  of  fresh  bread  (do  not  use  the 
crust).  Soak  bread  in  milk  first;  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
milk,  in  order  to  form  a  pliable  paste,  three  fresh  egg  yolks,  and 
the  whites  of  the  three  beaten  to  a  froth ;  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  the  third  of  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Mix  well  together, 
and  pile  high  on  a  baking  dish ;  pour  over  them  a  little  melted 
butter  and  sprinkle  a  little  cheese,  place  in  the  oven  and  leave 
until  they  are  a  golden  brown,  and  then  serve  while  hot. 

Potatoes  Sautees  an  Beurre. — Peel  and  clean  twelve  medium- 
sized  potatoes ;  place  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan ; 
place  it  on  a  good  fire,  adding  the  potatoes;  cook  them  until 
they  are  a  golden  brown,  then  drain.  Sprinkle  over  them  salt 
and  pepper,  and  arrange  them  on  a  dish,  adding  a  little  chopped 
parsley,  and  serve. 

Potatoes  a  la  Lyonnaise. — Cut  ten  boiled  potatoes  into  round 
slices;  lay  them  in  a  frying  pan  with  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls 


Vegetables:   Potatoes.  333 

of  lard  or  butter,  and  the  round  slices  of  a  previously  fried  onion, 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  well  together  until  well 
browned;  toss  them  well,  and  serve  with  a  pinch  of  chopped 
parsley  sprinkled  over  the  whole. 

Potatoes  Julienne. — Clean  ten  medium-sized  potatoes,  cut 
them  in  square  pieces  two  or  three  inches  long  and  one-quarter 
inch  in  width ;  drop  them  in  cold  water,  then  take  out  and  put  in 
a  pan  containing  very  hot  fat  and  allow  to  remain  for  six  or  eight 
minutes.  Take  out,  drain,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

Potatoes  Soufflees. — Cut  ten  medium-sized  potatoes  in 
quarters  and  in  oval  shape,  put  in  cold  water,  drain  off  the  water, 
put  in  pan  containing  some  hot  fat  or  butter  and  allow  to  fry 
from  eight  to  ten  minutes ;  take  out,  lay  them  aside  for  a  few 
moments,  then  plunge  them  again  in  very  hot  fat  until  they  swell 
considerably,  and  take  out  and  serve. 

Potatoes  a  la  Astor. — Clean  and  pare  ten  nice  potatoes,  cut 
them  in  half  an  inch  square  pieces,  put  them  in  a  frying  pan  with 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  suit 
the  taste.  Allow  them  to  fry  until  a  nice  golden  brown  (it 
generally  takes  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes).  Drain  off  the 
butter.  Place  the  potatoes  in  serving  dish,  sprinkle  over  a  little 
parsley  and  serve  hot. 

Hashed  Potatoes  with  Cream. — Hash  ten  cold  boiled  pota- 
toes and  place  them  in  a  pan ;  add  half  a  cupful  of  cream  and 
nearly  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  the  third  of  a  pinch  of  nutmeg ;  stir  well  with  spoon  for  five 
minutes  until  well  heated,  and  serve. 

Potatoes  a  FHollandaise. — Boil  ten  medium-sized  potatoes, 
peel  and  cut  them  into  quarters ;  put  them  in  a  pan  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley ;  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  stir  them  gently,  and  warm  them  slightly 
for  five  minutes.  Place  in  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Sweet  potatoes  a  1'Hollandaise  are  prepared  the  same  way. 


334  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 


ONIONS. 

Boiled  Onions. — Peel  off  the  outside,  cut  off  the  ends,  put  in 
stew  kettle,  cover  with  cold  water  and  let  them  parboil  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Then  drain  off  the  water,  and  pour  fresh  cold  water  on 
them ;  salt  and  let  boil  slowly  until  tender.  When  done  drain 
them,  put  a  little  melted  butter  over  them,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  serve  hot. 

Onions  Stewed. — Boil  in  water  until  they  begin  to  soften,  let 
them  drain,  put  in  a  stew  pan,  cover  with  good  thick  brown  gravy ; 
let  them  remain  until  they  are  perfectly  tender,  and  send  them  to 
table. 

Onions  Fried. — Peel  and  cut  them  in  slices  ;  fry  in  butter  or 
lard,  or  fat  from  cooking  meat ;  stir  constantly  while  frying,  and 
let  them  be  of  a  dark  brown  color. 

Onions  with  Cream. — Peel  six  large-sized  sound  onions,  pare 
the  roots  without  cutting  them,  and  place  them  in  a  pan,  cover 
with  salted  water,  and  cook  for  forty-five  minutes.  Lift  them 
from  the  pan,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish  ;  cover  them  with  half  a 
pint  of  cream  sauce,  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  broth 
they  were  cooked  in,  and  serve.  (See  page  203.) 

Scalloped  Onions. — Peel  and  slice  eight  large  onions,  and 
boil  until  tender.  Put  a  layer  of  them  in  bake  dish,  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  bits  of  butter,  then  a  layer  of  bread  crumbs, 
then  another  layer  of  onions  and  seasoning,  and  so  on  until  the 
dish  is  nearly  full,  having  bread  crumbs  on  top.  Add  milk  until 
dish  is  full,  bake  twenty  minutes. 

Stuffed  Onions. — Peel  six  good  onions ;  empty  out  the 
centers  with  a  vegetable  scoop ;  parboil  them  for  three  minutes, 
and  turn  them  upside  down  on  a  cloth  to  drain.  Fill  the  insides 
with  chicken  or  veal  forcemeat.  Line  the  bottom  of  a  pan  with  a 
piece  of  lard  skin,  and  one  carrot  and  one  onion,  both  cut  up ; 


Vegetables:   Tomatoes.  335 

lay  the  onions  on  top,  and  add  a  cup  of  white  broth.  Cover  with 
a  buttered  paper ;  then  put  it  in  the  oven  to  glaze  for  forty 
minutes,  taking  care  to  baste  frequently.  Place  them  in  a  hot 
dish  strain  the  gravy  over  them,  and  serve.  (See  Forcemeat, 
page  217,  and  Sauces,  page  206.) 

Minced  Onions. — Peel  and  pare  two  large-sized  onions,  cut 
them  in  two  and  mince  them  into  fine  slices.  Place  them  in  a 
pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  let  them  get  a  good  golden 
brown  on  stove  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  them  briskly.  Place 
them  in  a  bowl,  and  use  when  required. 


TOMATOES. 

To  Peel  Tomatoes. — Put  the  tomatoes  in  a  wire  basket  and 
plunge  them  in  hot  water  for  two  minutes  ;  then  plunge  them  in 
cold  water  for  two  minutes ;  take  off  skins  with  knife  dipped  in 
hot  water. 

Stuffed  Baked  Tomatoes. — Choose  six  nice  sound  smooth 
tomatoes,  wash  and  wipe,  cut  a  slice  off  of  the  blossom  end,  and 
with  a  spoon  take  out  the  pulp  ;  taking  great  care  not  to  break 
the  rind  of  tomatoes.  Chop  fine  one  small  onion,  a  cupful  of 
veal,  or  chicken ;  to  this  add  the  tomato  pulp,  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter,  salt  and  pepper.  Let  all  simmer  together  slowly,  stir 
into  it  some  bread  crumbs  to  thicken.  Remove  from  the  stove 
and  let  cool ;  then  fill  the  tomatoes  with  this  dressing,  place  a  bit 
of  butter  on  top  of  each  and  put  the  slice  on.  Lay  in  buttered 
pan  with  a  cupful  of  hot  water  to  keep  them  from  burning. 
Place  in  oven  and  bake  thirty  minutes  ;  when  done  remove  care- 
fully by  placing  a  knife  under  them,  and  lay  on  hot  platter. 
Place  a  bit  of  butter  on  each  tomato,  and  serve. 

Baked  Tomatoes. — Wash  the  tomatoes,  put  them  in  a  baking 
dish,  and  bake  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  or  until  the  skin 
is  thoroughly  shrivelled.  Then  take  them  upon  a  fork,  and 


336  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

drain  them  from  the  juice  in  the  dish.  Peel  them  in  the  dish  in 
which  they  are  to  be  served.  After  all  the  skins  have  been  re- 
moved, season  with  salt  and  pepper.  This  is  considered  a  health- 
ful method  of  cooking  tomatoes,  as  it  frees  them  from  much  of 
the  acid  juice. 

Tomato  Salad. — Select  ripe  tomatoes,  peel  at  least  an  hour 
before  using.  Slice,  and  place  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place.  Serve 
plain,  or  with  lemon  juice  or  sugar  as  preferred. 

Scrambled  Tomatoes. — Remove  the  skins,  and  slice  in  a 
saucepan  six  large  tomatoes.  Add  a  little  butter,  pepper  and 
salt,  and  cook  until  they  are  done.  Beat  two  or  three  eggs,  and 
just  before  taking  up  turn  them  in  the  tomatoes  and  stir  one  way 
for  two  or  three  minutes,  or  until  eggs  are  cooked.  Serve  im- 
mediately. 

Stewed  Tomatoes. — Peel  and  slice  the  tomatoes.  Put  them 
into  a  double  boiler,  without  the  addition  of  water,  and  stew  for 
an  hour  or  longer.  When  done,  serve  plain  with  a  little  sugar 
added,  or  season  with  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of  rather  thick 
sweet  cream  to  each  pint  of  tomatoes.  If  the  tomatoes  are  thin 
and  very  juicy,  they  may  be  thickened  with  a  little  flour  rubbed 
smooth  in  a  little  cold  water.  They  are  much  better,  however, 
to  stew  a  longer  time  until  the  water  they  contain  is  sufficiently 
evaporated  to  make  them  of  the  desired  consistency.  The  stew 
may  also  be  thickened,  if  desired,  by  the  addition  of  bread  crumbs, 
rice  or  macaroni. 

Fried  Tomatoes. — Remove  the  skins,  and  cut  in  thick  slices 
six  good-sized  tomatoes ;  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  bread 
crumbs,  fry  in  hot  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  A  fine 
relish  for  beefsteak. 

Scalloped  Tomatoes. — Take  a  pint  of  stewed  tomatoes,  which 
have  been  rubbed  through  a  colander,  thicken  with  one  and  one- 
fourth  cupfuls  of  lightly  picked  crumbs  of  Graham  or  whole- wheat 
bread,  or  a  sufficient  quantity  to  make  it  quite  thick;  add  salt  if 


Vegetables:   Tomatoes.  337 

desired,  and  half  a  cupful  of  sweet  cream,  mix  well  and  bake 
for  twenty  minutes.  Or,  fill  a  pudding  dish  with  alternate  layers 
of  peeled  and  sliced  tomatoes  and  bread  crumbs,  letting  the  top- 
most layer  be  of  tomatoes.  Cover,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  an  hour  or  longer,  according  to  depth.  Uncover,  and  brown 
for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 

Broiled  Tomatoes. — Select  eight  good-sized  solid  fresh  toma- 
toes ;  pare  the  under  parts,  wipe  them  nicely,  and  cut  in  halves. 
Lay  them  on  a  dish;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  sweet  oil ;  mix  well  together ;  keep  the  tomatoes  in 
good  shape,  then  arrange  them  in  a  double  broiler.  Put  them 
on  a  moderate  fire,  and  cook  for  six  to  seven  minutes  on  each 
side.  Place  in  a  hot  dish ;  pour  half  a  cupful  of  maitre  d'hotel 
butter  (see  page  212)  over  them,  and  serve. 

Boasted  Tomatoes. — Plunge  in  boiling  water  for  a  minute 
eight  medium-sized  sound  tomatoes;  drain,  and  pare  them  neatly, 
then  cut  away  the  top  without  detaching  them  entirely,  and 
remove  the  seeds  with  a  teaspoon.  Put  a  teaspoonful  of  good 
butter  into  each  tomato,  seasoning  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Close  the  tops,  and  lay  them  in  a  buttered  baking  dish,  moisten- 
ing each  tomato  with  a  little  sweet  oil.  Put  them  in  a  hot  oven, 
and  bake  from  ten  to  twelve  minutes.  Place  them  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  serve. 

Stewed  Corn  and  Tomatoes. — Boil  dried  or  fresh  corn  until 
perfectly  tender,  add  to  each  cupful  of  corn  two  cupfuls  of  stewed 
strained  tomatoes,  either  canned  or  freshly  cooked.  Salt  to 
taste,  boil  together  for  five  or  ten  minutes,  and  serve  plain  or 
with  a  little  cream  added. 

Scalloped  Tomatoes.— Place  in  a  baking  dish  a  layer  of  bread 
crumbs,  then  a  layer  of  peeled  tomatoes  sliced,  with  bits  of  butter, 
a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  then  bread  crumbs,  tomatoes,  and  so  on, 
until  the  dish  is  full,  having  the  bread  crumbs  on  top.  Place 
in  the  oven  and  bake. 


338  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

CABBAGE. 
FRENCH  AND  AMERICAN  FORMULAS. 

Boiled  Cabbage. — Carefully  clean  a  nice  head  of  cabbage, 
divide  into  halves,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  slice  very  thin,  cutting 
from  the  center  of  the  head  outward.  Put  into  boiling  water, 
cover  closely,  and  cook  rapidly  until  tender;  then  turn  into  a 
colander  and  drain,  pressing  gently  with  the  back  of  a  plate. 
Return  to  the  kettle,  add  salt  to  taste  and  sufficient  sweet  cream 
to  moisten  well,  heat  through  if  at  all  cooled,  dish,  and  serve  at 
once.  If  preferred,  the  cream  may  be  omitted,  and  the  cabbage 
served  with  tomato  sauce  or  lemon  juice  as  a  dressing. 

Cabbage  with  Cream. — Select  a  small  solid  cabbage,  cut  off 
the  outside  leaves,  and  shave  the  cabbage  fine.  Have  in  spider 
a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  put  the  cabbage  in,  cover  closely,  and 
let  it  boil  twenty  minutes,  then  drain  off  the  water,  add  a  cupful 
of  milk;  when  it  boils,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  made  smooth 
in  a  little  milk.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  let  it  come  to  a 
boil,  and  serve  hot. 

Stewed  Cabbage. — Chop  nice  cabbage  quite  fine,  and  put  it 
into  boiling  water,  letting  it  boil  twenty  minutes.  Turn  into  a 
colander  and  drain  thoroughly ;  return  to  the  kettle,  cover  with 
milk,  and  let  it  boil  till  perfectly  tender ;  season  with  salt  and 
cream  to  taste.  The  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  stirred  in  with  the 
cream,  is  considered  an  improvement  by  some. 

Fried  Cabbage. — Chop  cold  boiled  cabbage,  press  out  all  the 
moisture,  add  a  cupful  of  cream  to  a  quart  bowlful  of  cabbage, 
and  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper ;  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  in  a  frying  pan  over  the  fire,  let  it  get  smoking  hot,  put  in 
the  cabbage,  and  brown  it  quickly  on  the  under  side ;  as  soon  as 
the  cabbage  is  browned,  turn  it  upside  down  on  a  hot  dish,  and 
serve  it. 


Vegetables:    Cabbage.  339 

Cabbage  and  Tomatoes. — Boil  finely  chopped  cabbage  in  as 
little  water  as  possible.  When  tender,  add  half  the  quantity  of 
hot  stewed  tomatoes,  boil  together  for  a  few  minutes,  being  care- 
ful to  avoid  burning,  season  with  salt  if  desired,  and  serve.  If 
preferred,  a  little  sweet  cream  may  be  added  just  before  serving. 

Boiled  Cabbage. — Wash  a  medium-sized  head  of  cabbage  in 
plenty  of  salted  cold  water,  and  trim  away  the  woody  part  of  the 
stalk ;  have  ready  over  the  fire  a  very  large  pot  containing  five 
or  six  quarts  of  salted  boiling  water ;  put  the  cabbage  into  this 
boiling  water,  place  the  pot  over  hottest  part  of  the  fire,  and 
bring  its  contents  to  the  boiling  point  as  fast  as  possible.  Leave 
the  pot  uncovered,  and  every  two  or  three  minutes  press  the 
cabbage  under  the  boiling  water  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Do  not 
let  the  cabbage  stop  boiling  for  one  instant ;  boil  it  steadily  and 
rapidly  for  ten  minutes,  then  try  one  of  the  thickest  stalks  with 
a  sharp  knife;  if  it  is  tender — just  tender,  without  being  at  all 
watery — drain  the  cabbage  at  once  ;  if  it  is  not  quite  tender,  let 
it  boil  a  few  minutes  longer,  but  only  until  it  is  tender,  and  then 
drain  it ;  serve  it  hot  at  once,  with  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt, 
pepper  and  butter.  Or,  have  ready  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  for 
which  directions  are  given  elsewhere ;  pour  it  over  the  cabbage 
after  it  is  drained,  and  serve  it  hot  at  once. 

A  New  England  Boiled  Dinner.— Select  a  thick  piece  of 
corned  beef  from  the  round,  weighing  about  six  pounds ;  wash 
it  in  cold  water,  and  put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  large  pot,  with 
sufficient  cold  water  to  cover  it  three  or  four  inches;  set  the 
pot  where  its  contents  will  slowly  reach  the  boiling  point, 
and  boil  very  gently  for  four  hours  from  the  time  it  is  first 
placed  on  the  fire.  After  the  meat  is  put  to  cook,  wash  four 
large  beets  very  carefully,  without  breaking  the  skin  or  cutting 
off  the  stalks  or  roots,  and  put  them  over  the  fire  to  boil  in 
another  pot  in  plenty  of  actually  boiling  water.  Then  peel  four 
large  white  turnips  and  one  large  yellow  turnip ;  cut  the  latter  in 


340  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

four  pieces ;  scrape  four  carrots  and  four  parsnips  ;  peel  a  dozen 
medium-sized  potatoes  ;  trim  and  wash  a  firm  head  of  white  cab- 
bage, cut  its  stalk  out  without  breaking  the  leaves  apart,  and  bind  it 
with  broad  tape  to  keep  it  whole  while  cooking.  As  fast  as  the 
vegetables  are  prepared  lay  them  in  plenty  of  cold  water  until 
they  are  needed  for  cooking.  If  onions  are  used,  they  should  be 
boiled  in  a  separate  saucepan.  Some  families  like  a  dish  of 
boiled  squash,  mashed  with  pepper,  salt  and  butter,  served  as  a  part 
of  a  boiled  dinner ;  in  the  fall  and  winter,  pumpkin  is  often  used 
like  the  squash. 

When  the  meat  begins  to  boil,  the  scum  which  rises  to  the 
surface  of  the  pot  liquor  should  be  carefully  skimmed  off,  and 
a  medium-sized  red  or  green  pepper  put  into  the  pot.  As  already 
indicated,  the  pot  must  be  large  enough  to  hold  both  meat  and 
vegetables;  the  vegetables,  except  the  beets  and  onions,  are  to 
be  added  to  the  meat  in  proper  succession,  allowing  sufficient 
time  for  each  kind  to  cook.  The  carrots,  parsnips  and  turnips 
will  cook  in  about  two  hours ;  the  cabbage  and  onions  in  one 
hour;  the  potatoes,  squash  and  pumpkins  in  about  half  an  hour. 
The  beets  will  boil  from  two  to  four  hours,  according  to  their 
size ;  they  are  to  be  taken  up  when  tender,  their  skins  are  to  be 
rubbed  off  with  a  wet  towel,  and  then  they  are  to  be  sliced  and 
covered  with  vinegar.  They  are  generally  served  cold ;  but  if 
they  are  liked  hot,  they  can  be  heated  at  dinner  time,  with  a  little 
salt,  pepper  and  butter. 

When  the  boiled  dinner  is  ready  to  serve,  the  meat  is  placed 
in  the  middle  of  a  large  platter,  and  the  vegetables,  with  the 
exception  of  those  specified  for  separate  serving,  are  arranged 
around  it.  A  piece  of  salt  pork  is  sometimes  boiled  with  the  beef. 

Sauerkraut. — Trim  off  the  defective  and  tough  otter  leaves 
of  white  cabbage,  wash  it  thoroughly  in  cold  salted  water,  and 
shave  it  rather  fine  on  a  cabbage  cutter,  rejecting  the  tough  stalks; 
to  each  peck  of  cabbage  allow  a  pint  of  fine  salt ;  wash  the  outer 


Vegetables:    Cabbage.  341 

green  leaves  of  the  cabbage  in  cold  salted  water,  and  use  them  to 
line  a  wooden  tub  or  firkin ;  put  the  cabbage  into  the  firkin  in 
layers  with  the  salt,  beating  the  layers  of  cabbage  with  a  potato 
masher  until  all  of  it  is  tightly  packed  down;  put  a  board  over 
the  cabbage  with  a  heavy  stone  on  it,  and  let  it  stand  for  at  least 
six  weeks,  when  it  will  be  ready  to  use. 

To  prepare  the  sauerkraut  for  boiling,  soak  in  plenty  of  cold 
water  until  it  is  only  palatably  salty ;  put  the  sauerkraut  over  the 
fire  in  boiling  water,  or  in  the  same  pot  in  which  bacon,  pickled 
pork  or  smoked  sausage  is  boiling,  and  boil  until  it  is  tender ; 
serve  the  sauerkraut,  drain  it,  put  it  on  a  dish,  lay  the  meat  on 
on  it,  and  serve  them  together.  When  the  sauerkraut  is  cooked 
without  meat,  it  is  simply  served  as  a  vegetable. 

Stuffed  Cabbage. — After  cutting  out  the  root  and  heart  from 
a  good-sized  cabbage  head,  pick  off  several  of  the  outer  leaves 
and  boil  the  remainder  in  salted  water  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes  ; 
then  remove  it  from  the  fire,  open  the  leaves  carefully,  so  as  not 
to  break  them  ;  then  season  the  cabbage  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  fill  the  insides  of  the  leaves  with  a  nice  stuffing  or  sausage 
forcemeat.  Close  them  up,  and  tie  the  cabbage  so  that  none  of 
the  stuffing  escapes ;  then  lay  it  in  a  pan  ;  add  one  cut  up  carrot, 
one  cut  up  onion,  a  piece  of  pork,  and  a  cupful  of  white  broth. 
Cover  with  a  little  fat  from  the  soup  stock ;  lay  a  buttered  paper 
on  top  and  let  cook  for  one  hour  in  the  oven,  basting  it  occa- 
sionally with  its  own  juice ;  untie  and  serve  with  a  cupful  of  any 
sauce. 

Baked  Cabbage. — Cut  the  outside  leaves  from  a  firm  small 
cabbage;  put  it  on  in  cold  water  and  boil  fifteen  minutes;  drain 
this  water  off  and  pour  over  boiling  water;  let  it  cook  until  tender, 
then  drain  it,  set  aside  until  cold,  then  chop  it  fine,  add  two  beaten 
eggs,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
salt  and  pepper ;  stir  all  together,  put  it  in  baking  dish  and  bake 
until  brown  ;  serve  very  hot 


342  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

CAEROTS  AND  TURNIPS. 

Carrots  Mashed. — Cook  until  tender  in  boiling  water  and  a 
little  salt ;  drain  well,  and  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
salt  and  pepper.  Serve  hot.  Carrots  are  also  good  boiled  plain, 
with  salt  and  melted  butter  poured  over  them. 

Boiled  Carrots. — To  boil  carrots  in  their  own  juice,  wash 
clean  and  scrape  them,  cutting  out  discolored  spots ;  cut  them  in 
rather  thick  slices  and  throw  them  into  as  much  boiling  salted 
water  as  will  cover  or  barely  float  them,  and  no  more.  Boil 
gently  till  they  are  tolerably  tender,  then  boil  very  quickly  to 
evaporate  the  water,  of  which  only  a  spoonful  or  so  should  be 
left  in  the  saucepan.  Sprinkle  on  them  a  little  pepper,  put  in  a 
small  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  turn  and  toss  them  gently 
till  their  juice  is  thickened  by  them  and  adheres  to  them;  serve 
immediately.  They  are  improved  by  adding  a  dessertspoonful 
of  minced  parsley,  with  the  butter  and  a  little  thick  cream  mixed 
with  a  very  little  flour,  to  prevent  its  curdling.  Gravy  may  be 
used  instead  of  cream. 

Stewed  Carrots. — Prepare  young  and  tender  carrots,  drop 
into  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Drain, 
slice,  and  put  into  a  stewpan  with  rich  milk  or  cream  nearly  to 
cover ;  simmer  gently  until  tender  ;  season  with  salt  and  a  little 
chopped  parsley. 

Scalloped  Turnips. — Prepare  and  boil  whole  white  turnips 
until  nearly  tender;  cut  into  thin  slices,  lay  in  an  earthen  pudding 
dish,  pour  over  them  a  white  sauce  sufficient  to  cover,  made  by 
cooking  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  in  a  pint  of  milk,  part  cream  if 
preferred,  until  thickened.  Season  with  salt,  sprinkle  the  top 
lightly  with  grated  bread  crumbs,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until 
a  rich  brown.  Place  the  baking  dish  on  a  clean  plate,  and  serve. 
Rich  milk  or  cream  may  be  used  instead  of-  white  sauce,  if 
preferred. 


Vegetables  :   Squash  and  Beets.  343 

Mashed  Turnips. — Pare  the  turnips,  cut  them  in  half,  and 
boil  in  a  pot  with  either  beef,  mutton  or  lamb.  When  they 
become  tender,  press  the  liquor  from  them,  and  mash  them  with 
pepper  and  salt.  They  may  be  served  in  this  way,  or  they  may 
be  sent  to  the  table  whole,  with  white  sauce. 

Stewed  Turnips. — Prepare  and  slice  some  young  fresh  white 
turnips ;  boil  or  steam  about  twenty  minutes,  drain  thoroughly, 
turn  into  a  saucepan  with  a  cup  of  new  milk  for  each  quart  of 
turnips ;  simmer  gently  until  tender,  season  with  salt  if  desired, 
and  serve. 

Creamed  Turnips. — Pare,  but  do  not  cut,  young  sweet  white 
turnips;  boil  till  tender  in  a  small  quantity  of  water;  drain  and 
dry  well.  Cook  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  in  a  pint  of  rich  milk  or 
part  cream  ;  arrange  the  turnips  in  a  baking  dish,  pour  the  sauce 
over  them,  add  salt  if  desired,  sprinkle  the  top  with  grated  bread 
crumbs,  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven. 


SQUASH  AND  BEETS. 

Stewed  Squash  with  Toasts.— Cut  into  pieces,  and  stew 
until  tender  in  as  little  water  as  possible.  Put  in  colander,  and 
let  drain  thoroughly,  return  it  to  the  stove;  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Serve  on  toast. 

Summer  Squash. — Peel  a  squash,  cut  it  in  small  pieces,  and 
boil  it  in  salted  boiling  water  until  it  is  tender ;  then  drain  it,  put 
it  into  a  clean  towel  and  wring  out  all  the  water ;  put  it  again 
into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  with  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper;  stir  it  over 
the  fire  until  it  is  hot,  and  then  serve  it. 

Baked  Squash. — The  hard  shell  varieties  are  best  for  baking. 
Wash,  divide,  and  lay,  shells  downward,  on  the  top  of  the  oven, 
or  place  in  a  shallow  baking  dish  with  a  little  boiling  water. 


344  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Bake  until  tender,  serve  in  the  shell ;  or  scrape  out  the  soft  part, 
mash  and  serve  with  two  large  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  to  a  pint 
of  squash.  If  preferred,  the  skins  may  be  removed  before  baking, 
and  the  squash  served  the  same  as  sweet  potato,  for  which  it 
makes  a  good  substitute. 

Beet  Salad. — Chop  equal  parts  of  boiled  beet  and  fresh  young 
cabbage.  Mix  thoroughly,  add  salt  to  taste,  a  few  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  cover  with  diluted  lemon  juice.  Equal  quantities 
of  cold  boiled  beets  and  cold  boiled  potatoes,  chopped  fine, 
thoroughly  mixed,  and  served  with  a  dressing  of  lemon  juice  and 
whipped  cream,  make  a  palatable  salad.  Care  should  be  taken 
not  to  chop  the  vegetables  so  fine  as  to  admit  of  their  being  eaten 
without  mastication. 

Beets  Boiled. — Select  small-sized  smooth  roots.  They  should 
be  carefully  washed,  but  not  cut  before  boiling,  as  the  juice  will 
escape  and  the  sweetness  of  the  vegetable  be  impaired,  leaving 
it  white  and  hard.  Put  them  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  until 
tender;  which  requires  often  from  one  to  two  hours.  Do  not 
probe  them,  but  press  them  with  the  finger  to  ascertain  if  they 
are  sufficiently  done.  When  satisfied  of  this,  take  them  up  and 
put  them  into  a  pan  of  cold  water,  and  slip  off  the  outside.  Cut 
them  into  thin  slices,  and  while  hot  season  with  butter,  salt,  a 
little  pepper  and  very  sharp  vinegar. 

Baked  Beets. — Wash  young  and  tender  beets,  and  place  in 
an  earthen  baking  dish  with  a  very  little  water  ;  as  it  evaporates, 
add  more,  which  must  be  of  boiling  temperature.  Set  into  a 
moderate  oven,  and  according  to  size  of  the  beets,  bake  slowly 
from  two  to  three  hours.  When  tender,  remove  the  skins  and 
dress  with  lemon  juice  or  cream  sauce. 

Beets  and  Potatoes. — Boil  new  potatoes  and  young  beets 
separately  till  tender;  then  peel  and  slice.  Put  them  in  alternate 
layers  in  a  vegetable  dish,  with  salt  to  taste  and  enough  sweet 
cream  nearly  to  cover.  Brown  in  the  oven,  and  serve  at  once. 


Vegetables  :  Parsnips.  345 


PARSNIPS 

Baked  Parsnips, — Wash,  scrape  and  divide;  drop  into  boiling 
water  a  little  more  than  sufficient  to  cook  them,  and  boil  gently  till 
thoroughly  tender.  There  should  remain  about  one-half  pint  of 
the  liquor  when  the  parsnips  are  done.  Arrange  on  an  earthen 
plate  or  shallow  pudding  dish,  not  more  than  one  layer  deep ; 
cover  with  the  juice,  and  bake,  basting  frequently  until  the  juice 
is  all  absorbed  and  the  parsnips  delicately  browned.  Serve  at  once. 

Parsnips  with  Cream. — Wash  and  scrape  the  parsnips,  boil 
until  tender,  and  cut  lengthwise;  have  in  frying  pan  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter ;  lay  the  parsnips  in,  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per and  a  little  parsley;  let  it  boil  up,  take  up  the  parsnips,  lay 
them  on  a  hot  dish ;  add  to  the  sauce  four  tablespoonfuls  of  milk 
in  which  has  been  stirred  one-quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  let 
this  boil  up,  and  pour  over  the  parsnips. 

Parsnips  with  Egg  Sauce. — Scrape,  wash  and  slice  thinly 
enough  parsnips  to  make  three  pints ;  steam,  bake  or  boil  them 
until  very  tender.  If  boiled,  turn  into  a  colander  and  drain  well. 
Have  ready  an  egg  sauce,  for  preparing  which  heat  a  pint  of  rich 
milk  or  very  thin  cream  to  boiling,  stir  into  it  a  level  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour  rubbed  smooth  with  a  little  milk.  Let  this  boil  a  few 
minutes,  stirring  constantly  until  the  flour  is  well  cooked  and  the 
sauce  thickened,  then  add  slowly  the  well-beaten  yolk  of  one  egg, 
stirring  rapidly  so  that  it  shall  be  well  mingled  with  the  whole ; 
add  salt  to  taste ;  let  it  boil  up  once,  pour  over  the  parsnips,  and 
serve.  The  sauce  should  be  of  the  consistency  of  thick  cream. 

Mashed  Parsnips. — Wash  and  scrape,  dropping  at  once  into 
cold  water  to  prevent  discoloration.  Slice  thinly  and  steam,  or 
bake  whole,  until  perfectly  tender.  When  done,  mash  until  free 
from  lumps,  removing  all  hard  or  stringy  portions ;  add  salt  to 
taste  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  thick  cream,  and  serve. 


346  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Fried  Parsnips. — Boil  them  tender;  when  they  are  cool 
slice  them  lengthwise  and  fry  them  with  some  thin  slices  of 
boiled  salt  pork.  Put  in  the  parsnips  when  the  fat  is  hot, 
pepper  them,  brown  them  on  both  sides ;  crisp  the  pork,  and 
serve  with  them. 


CORN. 

Boiled  Green  Corn. — Remove  the  husks  and  every  thread 
of  the  silk  fiber.  Place  in  a  kettle,  the  larger  ears  at  the  bottom, 
with  sufficient  boiling  water  nearly  to  cover.  Cover  with  the 
clean  inner  husks,  and  cook  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes, 
according  to  the  age  of  the  corn  ;  too  much  cooking  hardens  it 
and  detracts  from  its  flavor.  Try  a  kernel,  and  when  the  milk 
has  thickened,  and  a  raw  taste  is  no  longer  apparent,  it  is  suffi- 
ciently cooked.  Green  corn  is  said  to  be  sweeter  boiled  with 
the  inner  husks  on.  For  cooking  in  this  way,  strip  off  all  outer 
husks,  and  remove  the  silk,  tying  the  inner  husk  around  the  ear 
with  a  bit  of  thread,  and  boil.  Remove  from  the  kettle,  place 
in  a  heated  dish,  cover  with  a  napkin  and  serve  at  once  on  the 
cob.  Some  recommend  scoring  or  splitting  the  corn  by  drawing 
a  sharp  knife  through  each  row  lengthwise.  This  is  a  wise  pre- 
caution against  insufficient  mastication. 

Fried  Corn. — Cut  the  corn  from  the  cob,  and  fry  in  a  little 
butter,  stir  often,  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  nicely  browned 
and  is  done,  add  a  little  cream ;  do  not  boil  after  the  cream  is 
added. 

Green  Corn  on  the  Ear. — Select  a  dozen,  more  or  less,  of 
nice  young  ears,  free  them  from  every  particle  of  silk,  and  throw 
them  into  boiling  water  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt.  If  very 
young,  fifteen  minutes  will  cook  them.  As  the  corn  grows 
older,  it  will  require  more  time.  Serve  hot,  with  butter,  pepper 
and  salt. 


Vegetables :  Corn.  347 

Stewed  Corn  Pulp. — Take  six  ears  of  green  corn  or  enough 
.o  make  a  pint  of  raw  pulp ;  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  a  thin  shav- 
ing from  each  row  of  kernels  or  score  each  kernel,  and  with  the 
back  of  the  knife  scrape  out  the  pulp,  taking  care  to  leave  the 
hulls  on  the  cob.  Heat  a  cup  and  a  half  of  rich  milk — part 
cream  if  it  can  be  afforded — to  boiling,  add  the  corn,  cook 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes;  season  with  salt  and  a  teasponful  of 
sugar  if  desired. 

Green  Corn  Boasted. — Husk  a  dozen  ears  of  corn,  and  re- 
move the  silk ;  rub  them  with  butter,  season  them  with  pepper 
and  salt ;  lay  them  in  a  dripping  pan,  and  prop  it  up  as  close  as 
possible  to  a  clear  hot  fire;  occasionally  turn  the  ears,  and 
change  their  position  in  the  pan,  so  that  all  may  cook  evenly ; 
when  they  are  browned,  serve  them  hot  at  once.  Or,  prepare 
the  corn  as  directed  above,  and  then  brown  it  in  a  very  hot 
oven. 

Baked  Corn. — Select  nice  fresh  ears  of  tender  corn  of  as 
nearly  equal  size  as  possible.  Open  the  husks  and  remove  all 
the  silk  from  the  corn ;  replace  and  tie  the  husks  around  the 
ears  with  a  thread.  Put  the  corn  in  a  hot  oven,  and  bake  thirty 
minutes  or  until  tender.  Remove  the  husks  before  serving. 

Succotash. — Take  a  pint  of  fresh-shelled  Lima  beans,  or 
any  large  fresh  beans,  put  them  in  a  pot  with  cold  water,  rather 
more  than  will  cover  them.  Scrape  the  kernels  from  twelve 
ears  of  young  sweet  corn  ;  put  the  cobs  in  with  the  beans,  boil- 
ing from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Now  take  out  the 
cobs  and  put  in  the  scraped  corn ;  boil  again  fifteen  minutes, 
then  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  a  piece  of  butter  the 
size  of  an  egg,  and  half  a  cup  of  cream.  Serve  hot. 


348  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

PEAS. 

Stewed  Peas. — If  from  the  garden,  pick  and  shell  the  peas 
with  clean  hands ;  if  from  the  market,  wash  the  pods  before 
shelling,  so  that  the  peas  will  not  require  washing,  as  they  are 
much  better  without.  When  shelled,  put  into  a  colander  and 
sift  out  the  fine  particles  and  undeveloped  blossoms.  If  not  of 
equal  growth,  sort  the  peas  and  put  the  older  ones  to  cook  ten 
minutes  before  the  others.  Use  a  porcelain  kettle,  with  one- 
half  pint  of  boiling  water  for  each  quart  of  peas,  if  young  and 
tender ;  older  ones,  which  require  longer  stewing,  need  more. 
Cover  closely,  and  simmer  gently  till  tender.  The  time  required 
for  young  peas  is  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes ;  older  ones 
require  from  forty  to  fifty  minutes.  Serve  without  draining, 
season  with  salt  and  enough  sweet  cream  to  make  them  as  juicy 
as  desired.  If  preferred,  the  juice  may  be  thickened  with  a 
little  flour. 

The  peas  may  be  purposely  stewed  in  a  larger  quantity  of 
water,  and  served  in  their  own  juices  thickened  with  a  little  flour 
and  seasoned  with  salt. 

Sugar  Peas. — Wash  the  pods,  string  them  like  string-beans, 
cut  them  in  pieces  about  an  inch  long,  and  stew  them  gently 
with  butter,  allowing  two  tablespoon fuls  to  each  quart  of  peas, 
and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  enough  water 
to  prevent  burning.  They  will  cook  tender  in  from  twenty  to 
thirty  minutes.  Serve  them  in  their  sauce. 


FROM  FRENCH  AND  ITALIAN  CHEFS. 

Peas  a  la  Francaise. — One  quart  green  peas  shelled ;  one 
onion  ;  one-half  handful  parsley ;  four  tablespoonfuls  butter ; 
one  tablespoonful  flour;  two  teaspoonfuls  sugar;  one  glassful 


Vegetables :  Peas.  349 

water;  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  Melt  in  a  stewpan  two 
tablespoonfuls  butter;  add  the  peas,  water,  and  onion  (whole), 
the  parsley  (tied),  some  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  slowly  for 
about  forty  minutes.  When  ready  to  serve,  take  out  the  onion 
and  the  parsley,  add  the  balance  of  butter  mixed  with  one  table- 
spoonful  flour,  and  serve  in  a  warm  dish.  Use  only  small  peas. 

Green  Peas  a  I'Ancienne  Mode. — Two  quarts  of  unshelled, 
young,  tender  green  peas  ;  shell  them  carefully,  and  keep  them 
wrapped  up  in  a  wet  napkin  until  needed.  Clean,  drain,  and  tie 
up  small  lettuce-head  ;  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  the  peas ;  sea- 
son with  salt ;  cover  with  a  glassful  of  water,  and  add  six  table- 
spoonfuls  very  good  butter.  After  cooking  for  fifteen  minutes, 
remove  the  lettuce,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  thicken  the  peas 
with  two  spoonfuls  of  cream,  diluted  with  one  egg  yolk,  adding 
half  a  pinch  of  white  pepper,  and  a  spoonful  of  powdered  sugar. 
Let  all  thicken  together  for  five  minutes,  and  serve  immediately 
in  a  pan. 

Green  Peas  a  PAnglaise. — Two  quarts  of  green  peas ;  put 
them  in  a  pan  and  cover  them  with  boiling  water.  Add  a  hand- 
ful of  salt,  and  boil  quickly,  without  covering,  for  fifteen  min- 
utes. Skim  the  water  clean  as  the  scum  rises.  When  done, 
strain  them  through  a  colander,  return  them  to  the  pan,  and  stir 
them  well,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  fresh  butter.  Dish  them 
in  a  vegetable  dish,  place  a  little  more  butter  in  the  middle,  and 
serve. 

Green  Peas  with  Bacon. — Two  quarts  shelled  green  peas ; 
two  onions;  one  handful  parsley;  two  pounds  bacon;  two 
tablespoonfuls  flour ;  two  glassfuls  water ;  salt  and  pepper  to 
suit  the  taste.  Cut  the  bacon  in  dices  and  brown  a  while  in  a 
saucepan.  Sprinkle  over  the  flour;  then  add  the  water,  the 
peas,  onions  (whole),  the  parsley  tied,  and  cook  for  about  fifty 
minutes.  When  ready  to  serve,  take  out  the  onion  and  the 
parsley  and  serve. 

Green  Peas  a  la  Bourgeoise.— One  and  one-half  quarts  of 


350  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

green  peas,  shelled  ;  one  tablespoonful  of  flour;  one  tablespoon- 
f  ul  of  butter  ;  one-half  raw  lettuce  heart ;  one  raw  egg,  yolk  ;  two 
tablespoonfuls  cream  ;  one  coffee-cup  of  cold  water ;  salt  and 
pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  First  put  the  butter  in  pan,  stir  in  the 
flour,  and  allow  to  cook  on  back  of  stove  for  five  minutes  or  so 
(stirring  constantly) ;  mix  in  the  peas  quickly,  and  add  the  cold 
water,  lettuce  heart,  salt  and  pepper ;  allow  to  cook  for  about 
twenty  minutes  until  the  juice  has  nearly  all  evaporated.  Beat 
the  yolk  of  egg  well,  add  it  to  the  peas ;  add  in  the  cream.  Stir 
all  constantly  for  three  or  four  minutes  on  top  of  stove  without 
allowing  same  to  boil — just  to  heat  through  thoroughly,  and 
serve. 

If  you  do  not  desire  to  cook  as  large  a  quantity  you  can  use 
one-half  of  the  proportions  given.  Use  only  small  tender  peas. 

Green  Peas  with  Cream. — Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
in  a  pan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  kneaded  well  together. 
Dissolve  it ;  then  add  two  quarts  peas,  a  bouquet  of  herbs,  salt 
and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  Cook  in  their  own  juice  for 
twenty  minutes,  then  take  the  pan  from  off  the  fire.  Pour  the 
gravy  from  the  peas  into  another  vessel,  add  to  it  half  a  cupful 
of  cream  and  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar ;  pour  this  sauce 
over  the  peas,  and  heat  up  once  again  without  boiling,  for  two 
minutes,  before  serving. 


BEANS. 

Stewed  Beans. — Soak  a  quart  of  white  beans  in  water  over 
night.  In  the  morning  drain,  turn  hot  water  over  them  an  inch 
deep  or  more,  cover,  and  place  on  the  range  where  they  will 
only  just  simmer,  adding  boiling  water  if  needed.  When  nearly 
tender,  add  salt  to  taste,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  if  desired,  and 
half  a  cup  of  good  sweet  cream.  Cook  slowly  an  hour  or  more 


Vegetables :  Beans.  351 

longer,  but  let  them  be  full  of  juice  when  taken  up,  never 
cooked  down  dry  and  mealy. 

Pork  and  Beans. — Pick  over  a  quart  of  small  white  beans ; 
put  them  to  soak  over  night.  Set  them  to  boil  the  next  morn- 
ing, throwing  off  the  water  just  before  they  reach  boiling-point. 
Cover  with  cold  water  again,  put  in  a  square  pound  of  nice 
sweet  salt  pork,  and  let  both  boil  together  till  the  beans  are  ten- 
der. When  the  beans  are  done,  the  water  should  have  all  be- 
come absorbed ;  they  are  then  put  in  one  pan  to  brown,  and  the 
pork  in  another,  scoring  the  latter  first,  through  the  skin.  Be- 
fore serving  set  the  pork  in  the  center  of  the  beans.  Serve  with 
pickles  and  horseradish. 

String  Beans. — Wash  a  quart  of  very  young,  tender  string- 
beans,  cut  them  diagonally  in  small  strips,  throw  them  into 
salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  them  fast  for  ten  minutes,  or  un- 
til they  are  tender ;  then  drain  them,  and  throw  them  into  cold 
water ;  melt  over  the  fire  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  when  the  beans  are  cold, 
drain  them,  put  them  into  the  hot  butter,  and  heat  them  quickly  ; 
season  them  palatably  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  the  lemon- 
juice,  and  serve  them  at  once.  Omit  the  lemon-juice  if  the 
flavor  is  not  desired. 

Lima  Beans. — Put  a  quart  of  shelled  lima  beans  over  the 
fire,  in  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  with  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt,  and  boil  them  for  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until 
they  are  tender ;  then  drain  them  ;  add  to  them  enough  milk 
to  cover  them,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  a  palatable  season- 
ing of  salt  and  white  pepper ;  heat  them  quickly,  and  serve  them 
hot. 

Lima  beans  may  be  simply  boiled  until  tender  in  salted  boil- 
ing water,  then  drained,  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  but- 
ter, and  served  at  once. 

Cold  lima  beans  can  be  fried  in  butter,  with  a  palatable 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper;  or  mashed  and  made  into  little 


352  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

cakes,  with  an  egg  and  salt  and  pepper,  and  then  browned  in 
butter. 

Scalloped  Beans. — Soak  a  pint  of  white  beans  over  night  in 
cold  water.  When  ready  to  cook,  put  into  an  earthen  baking 
dish,  cover  well  with  new  milk,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for 
eight  or  nine  hours,  refilling  the  dish  with  milk  as  it  boils  away, 
and  taking  care  that  the  beans  do  not  at  any  time  get  dry 
enough  to  brown  over  the  top  till  they  are  tender.  When 
nearly  done,  add  salt  to  taste,  and  a  half  cup  of  cream.  They 
may  be  allowed  to  bake  till  the  milk  is  quite  absorbed  and  the 
beans  dry,  or  may  be  served  when  rich  with  juice,  according  to 
taste.  The  beans  may  be  parboiled  in  water  for  a  half-hour 
before  beginning  to  bake,  and  the  length  of  time  thereby  les- 
/sened.  They  should  be  well  drained  before  adding  the  milk, 
however. 

To  Blanch  String  Beans. — Select  nice  fresh  string  beans. 
Break  off  the  tops  and  bottoms ;  carefully  string  both  sides; 
wash  them  well  in  cold  water,  lifting  them  up  and  down,  and 
then  drain  off  the  water.  Then  place  them  in  a  vessel  and  cover 
with  boiling  salt  water  (a  light  solution),  and  cook  for  twenty- 
five  minutes.  Drain  off  the  water  and  return  them  to  fresh  cold 
water,  and  allow  them  to  cool  in  same.  Lift  out  and  wipe  dryf 
and  they  are  ready  to  use  for  salads  or  other  cooking  purposes. 

String  Beans,  with  Cream. — Take  a  quart  of  blanched 
beans  ;  put  in  a  saucepan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  cook 
on  the  stove  for  five  minutes,  stirring  them  well.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a  bunch  of  chives  and  one 
sprig  of  parsley  tied  together.  Pour  in  a  glassful  of  fresh  cream 
or  milk,  diluted  with  one  egg  yoke.  Heat  well,  without  boiling, 
for  five  minutes.  Then  serve.  Sugar  may  be  added  with  ad- 
vantage, if  desired. 

String  Beans  a  la  Francaise. — One  quart  blanched  string 
beans  ;  one  cupful  white  broth  ;  two  tablespoonfuls  butter ;  two 
teaspoonfuls  flour;  one  small  onion  cut  in  dice-shaped  pieces. 


Vegetables  :  Asparagus.  353 

Put  the  pieces  of  onion  in  a  pan  with  the  butter ;  place  on  stove ; 
and  allow  same  to  get  a  nice  golden-brown  color.  Then  add 
the  flour,  stir  well,  and  then  add  the  white  broth.  Stir  continu- 
ally until  it  comes  to  a  boil.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  to 
suit  the  taste ;  add  the  beans,  and  allow  to  cook  for  about  ten 
minutes.  Serve  in  a  hot  dish  ;  sprinkle  a  little  chopped  parsley 
on  top.  (See  Meat  Sauces  for  white  broth.) 

String  Beans  a  la  Italienne. — Take  a  quart  of  fresh  beans, 
clean  and  string  them,  cut  them  in  half,  and  cook  in  water  with 
a  little  salt  and  butter  until  done.  Then  drain  off  the  water; 
put  in  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  (you  can 
use  less),  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  the  same  of 
chopped  chives,  and  cook  for  five  minutes.  Thicken  the  gravy 
with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg  well 
beaten  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  mix  well  together  for  a 
few  minutes  and  serve. 


ASPARAGUS. 

Asparagus. — If  fresh  asparagus  is  used,  wash  it,  and  scrape 
the  stalks,  and,  as  far  as  they  are  tender,  cut  them  into  inch 
pieces ;  boil  them  until  tender  in  salted  boiling  water ;  then 
drain  them,  and  throw  them  into  cold  water ;  if  canned  aspara- 
gus is  used,  simply  drain  it,  and  pour  boiling  water  over  it : 
about  ten  minutes  before  dinner-time  drain  the  asparagus  from 
the  boiling  water,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  sweet 
cream  to  cover  it,  season  it  palatably  with  salt  and  white  pepper, 
heat  it,  and  serve  it  at  once  on  delicate  slices  of  toast.  Or,  heat 
the  asparagus  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  after  it  is  boiled. 

Asparagus  with  Egg  Sauce. — Prepare  and  cook  asparagus 
as  directed  above.  When  tender,  drain  thoroughly,  and  serve 
on  a  hot  dish  or  on  slices  of  nicely  browned  toast,  with  an  egg 


354  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

sauce  prepared  in  the  following  manner  :  Heat  a  half  cup  of  rich 
milk  to  boiling,  add  salt,  and  turn  into  it  very  slowly  the  well- 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  stirring  constantly  at  the  same  time. 
Let  the  whole  just  thicken,  and  remove  from  the  fire  at  once. 

Asparagus  and  Toast. — Cut  off  the  white,  removing  most 
of  that  which  is  hard.  Scrape  the  hard  ends  a  little.  Put  them 
in  cold  water  for  a  short  time,  then  tie  them  up  in  small  bundles. 
When  the  water  boils,  put  them  in  with  a  little  salt.  Boil  until 
tender.  Toast  a  slice  of  bread  brown  on  both  sides.  Take  the 
asparagus  up  and  dip  the  toast  in  the  water  the  asparagus  was 
boiled  in.  Lay  the  asparagus  on  the  toast ;  pour  melted  butter 
over  it ;  garnish  with  slices  of  orange. 

Asparagus  with  Cream  Sauce. — Thoroughly  wash,  tie  in. 
small  bunches,  and  put  into  boiling  water ;  boil  till  perfectly 
tender.  Drain  thoroughly,  untie  the  bunches,  place  the  stalks 
all  the  same  way  upon  a  hot  plate,  with  a  dressing  prepared  as 
follows :  Let  a  pint  of  sweet  cream  (about  six  hours  old  is  best) 
come  to  the  boiling-point,  and  stir  into  it  salt  to  taste,  and  a 
level  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  smooth  with  a  little  cold 
cream.  Boil  till  the  flour  is  perfectly  cooked,  and  then  pass 
through  a  fine-wire  strainer. 

Asparagus  and  Peas. — Asparagus  and  green  peas  make  a 
nice  dish  served  together,  and  if  of  proportionate  age,  require 
the  same  length  of  time  to  cook.  Wash  the  asparagus,  shell 
and  look  over  the  peas,  put  together  into  boiling  water,  cook, 
and  serve  as  directed  for  stewed  asparagus. 

Asparagus  with  Dutch  Sauce. — After  washing  asparagus, 
scrape  off  the  woody  portion  of  the  stalks,  or  cut  it  off  entirely, 
and  tie  the  asparagus  in  small  bunches ;  put  it  over  the  fire  in 
salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  until  it  is  tender ;  then  drain  it 
and  serve  it  on  a  napkin,  or  on  toast,  sending  a  dish  of  white  or 
Dutch  sauce,  or  melted  butter,  to  the  table  with  it.  The  toast 
served  under  asparagus  is  designed  to  absorb  the  water  from  it. 
To  make  Dutch  or  Hollandaise  sauce,  put  over  the  fire  a  table- 


Vegetables:   Cauliflower.  355 

spoonful  each  of  butter  and  flour,  and  stir  them  until  they  bub- 
ble, then  gradually  stir  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water ;  when  the 
sauce  boils,  season  it  palatably  with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and 
draw  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  where  the  sauce  cannot 
boil ;  then  stir  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  drop  by  drop,  or 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  or 
lemon  juice,  and  finally  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  ;  serve  as  soon 
as  the  eggs  are  added,  because  it  will  be  apt  to  curdle  if  it  stands 
until  the  eggs  are  cooked. 

Boiled  asparagus,  served  either  hot  or  cold,  with  mayonnaise, 
is  delicious. 


CAULIFLOWER. 

Cauliflower. — Trim  off  the  leaves  of  a  firm  head  of  cauli- 
flower, and  wash  it  thoroughly  in  plenty  of  cold  water  in  which 
a  handful  of  salt  has  been  dissolved  :  if  any  insects  are  visible 
between  the  branches  of  the  cauliflower,  let  it  soak  in  the  salted 
water,  with  the  flowerets  down,  for  an  hour ;  the  salt  will  kill 
the  insects,  and  they  will  fall  down  into  the  water.  About 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  dinner-time  put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper  into  a  perfectly  clean  saucepan 
large  enough  to  hold  the  cauliflower;  take  it  from  the  water, 
and  put  it  at  once  into  the  saucepan  without  draining  it ;  cover 
it  closely,  set  it  over  a  gentle  fire,  and  let  it  simmer  and  steam 
until  tender,  which  will  be  in  about  half  an  hour.  Then,  with- 
out breaking  it,  take  it  up  on  a  hot  dish  ;  let  the  butter  and 
water  in  which  it  was  cooked  boil  very  fast  for  a  minute,  and 
then  pour  it  over  the  cauliflower,  and  serve  it.  If  a  thick  sauce 
is  liked,  mix  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  or  corn-starch,  dissolved  in 
half  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  with  the  butter  and  water,  boil 


356  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

it  for  two  minutes,  stirring  it  constantly,  and  then  serve  it  with 
the  cauliflower. 

Cauliflower,  after  it  is  carefully  washed,  may  be  boiled  until 
tender,  and  then  drained,  and  served  with  white  sauce ;  or, 
when  the  heads  are  small  and  defective,  either  boiled  and  served 
in  branches,  instead  of  entire,  or  mashed  through  a  colander, 
and  heated  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter. 

Boiled  Cauliflower. — Prepare,  divide  into  neat  branches, 
and  tie  securely  in  a  net.  Put  into  boiling  milk  and  water, 
equal  quantities,  and  cook  until  the  main  stalks  are  tender. 
Boil  rapidly  the  first  five  minutes,  afterward  more  moderately, 
to  prevent  the  flower  from  becoming  done  before  the  stalks. 
Serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  cream  sauce  or  diluted  lemon  juice. 

Browned  Cauliflower. — Beat  together  two  eggs,  a  little 
salt,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  cream,  and  a  small  quantity 
of  grated  bread  crumbs  well  moistened  with  a  little  milk,  till  of 
the  consistency  of  batter.  Steam  the  cauliflower  until  tender, 
separate  it  into  small  bunches,  dip  each  top  in  the  mixture,  and 
place  in  nice  order  in  a  pudding  dish ;  put  in  the  oven  and 
brown. 

Fried  Cauliflower. — Boil  the  cauliflowers  till  about  half 
done.  Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  with  two  yolks  of  eggs, 
then  add  water  enough  to  make  a  rather  thin  paste ;  add  salt  to 
taste ;  the  two  whites  are  beaten  till  stiff,  and  then  mixed  with 
>the  yolks,  flour,  and  water.  Dip  each  branch  of  the  cauliflowers 
into  the  mixture,  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat.  When  done,  take 
them  off  with  a  skimmer,  turn  into  a  colander,  dust  salt  all  over, 
and  serve  warm.  Asparagus,  celery,  egg-plant,  oyster-plant,  are 
all  fine  when  fried  in  this  manner. 

Cauliflower  with  Egg  Sauce. — Steam  the  cauliflower  until 
tender,  separate  into  small  portions,  dish,  and  serve  with  an  egg 
sauce  prepared  as  directed  for  parsnips  on  page  345. 

Cauliflower  with  Tomato  Sauce.— Boil  or  steam  the  cauli- 
flower until  tender.  In  another  dish  prepare  a  sauce  with  a  pint 


Vegetables:  Egg  Plant.  357 

of  strained  stewed  tomatoes  heated  to  boiling,  thickened  with 
a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  smooth  in 'a  little  water,  and 
salted  to  taste.  When  the  cauliflower  is  tender,  dish,  and  pour 
over  it  the  hot  tomato  sauce.  If  preferred,  a  tablespoonful  of 
thick  sweet  cream  may  be  added  to  the  sauce  before  using. 

It  is  a  very  good  plan  to  loosen  the  leaves  of  a  head  of  cauli- 
flower, and  let  lie,  the  top  downward,  in  a  pan  of  cold  salt  water, 
to  remove  any  insects  that  might  be  hidden  between  them. 


EGG  PLANT. 

Egg  Plant. — In  preparing  egg  plant  keep   in   water  until 

ready  to  cook,  as  the  air  will  turn  it  black. 

Baked  Egg  Plant. — Cut  a  medium-sized  egg  plant  in  halves, 
score  it  deeply  on  both  sides,  and  rub  plenty  of  salt  and  pepper 
into  the  cuts ;  put  it  into  a  pan  with  a  heaping  tablespoonful 
of  butter  spread  over  it,  and  bake  it  until  it  is  tender ;  serve  it 
with  the  gravy  it  yields  poured  over  it. 

Or,  after  cutting  the  egg  plant,  scoop  out  most  of  the  in- 
terior, mince  it  fine,  add  an  equal  quantity  of  bread-crumbs 
to  it,  season  it  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter,  and  put  the 
mixture  again  into  the  rind,  heaping  each  half ;  set  the  halves 
of  the  egg  plant  in  an  earthen  dish  which  can  be  sent  to  the 
table,  and  bake  it  until  it  is  tender,  then  serve  it  hot. 

Egg  Plant  with  Dressing. — Cut  the  egg  plant  in  two  ;  take 
out  all  the  inside  and  put  it  in  a  pan  with  a  cupful  of  chopped 
chicken,  veal,  or  any  meat  you  wish  (ham  is  also  nice),  cover 
with  water,  and  boil  until  tender ;  drain,  add  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter,  a  small  onion  chopped  fine,  salt  and  pepper,  and 
about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs ;  mix  well  together 
and  fill  each  half  of  the  hull,  put  a  little  butter  on  each,  and 
bake  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 


358  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Egg  Plant  Fried  in  Butter. — Peel  and  slice  the  egg  plant, 
let  it  lie  in  salt  for  an  hour,  and  then  roll  the  slices  in  dry  flour 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper ;  put  a  large  pan  over  the  fire 
with  enough  butter  to  cover  the  bottom  to  the  depth  of  half  an 
inch  thick  when  melted  ;  when  the  butter  is  smoking  hot,  put 
in  the  egg-plant,  fry  it  brown  on  both  sides,  and  serve  it  hot. 

Broiled  Egg  Plant. — Peel  and  slice  a  medium-sized  egg 
plant ;  place  the  slices  in  a  dish ;  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper  ;  pour  over  them  a  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil ;  mix  well 
together ;  then  arrange  the  slices  on  the  broiler,  and  broil  them 
for  five  minutes  on  each  side.  Remove  them  from  the  fire, 
place  them  in  a  hot  dish,  spread  four  ounces  of  maitre  d'hotel 
butter  over  them,  and  serve. 

Stuffed  Egg  Plant. — Peel  and  slice  a  nice  egg  plant ;  see 
that  the  peel  remains  intact  on  one  side.  Make  four  incisions 
inside  of  each  piece,  and  fry  them  for  one  minute  in  very  hot 
fat ;  take  out  the  fleshy  part  of  the  egg-plant  with  a  scoop,  and 
fill  it  with  any  forcemeat  at  hand.  Sprinkle  the  top  with  bread- 
crumbs and  a  little  clarified  butter  •  brown  well  in  the  oven  for 
ten  minutes,  and  serve. 


MUSHROOMS. 
AMERICAN    AND    FRENCH    FORMULAS. 

Stewed  Mushrooms. — Select  the  buttons  of  uniform  size. 
Wipe  them  clean  with  a  wet  flannel ;  put  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  little  water,  and  let  them  stew  very  gently  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour.  Add  salt  to  taste,  work  in  a  little  flour  and  butter, 
to  make  the  liquor  about  as  thick  as  cream,  and  let  it  boil  for 
five  minutes.  When  you  are  ready  to  dish  it  up,  stir  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  the  yolk  of  an  egg ;  stir  it  over  the 
fire  for  a  minute,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  and  serve.  Stewed 


Vegetables  :  Mushrooms.  359 

button  mushrooms  are  very  nice,  either  in  fish  stews  or  ragouts, 
or  served  apart  to  eat  with  fish.  Another  way  of  doing  them  is 
to  stew  them  in  milk  and  water  (after  they  are  rubbed  white), 
add  to  them  a  little  veal  gravy,  mace,  and  salt,  and  thicken  the 
gravy  with  cream  or  the  yolks  of  eggs. 

Fresh  Mushrooms  Baked. — Carefully  cleanse  the  mush- 
rooms as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  broiled  mushrooms ;  cut 
as  many  slices  of  bread  as  there  are  "mushroom  caps,  trimming 
off  the  crusts,  and  having  each  slice  about  two  inches  square ; 
lay  them  in  a  baking-pan ;  spread  each  slice  of  bread  with 
butter,  put  on  each  one  a  little  pepper  and  salt;  on  each  slice  of 
bread  put  one  or  more  mushroom  caps,  enough  to  cover  the 
bread ;  put  the  pan  in  a  hot  oven  for  five  minutes,  then  season 
the  mushrooms  with  salt  and  pepper;  put  a  piece  of  butter  as 
large  as  a  hazel-nut  on  the  mushrooms  contained  on  each  slice 
of  bread  ;  return  the  pan  to  the  oven,  and  finish  baking  the 
mushrooms,  which  are  to  be  served  on  the  bread  as  soon  as  they 
are  tender. 

Fresh  mushrooms  may  be  breaded  and  fried. 

Mushrooms  Broiled  on  Toast. — Pare  and  wash  well,  and 
dry  thoroughly  one  pound  of  fine  large  mushrooms.  Lay  them 
on  a  dish,  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper, 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil.  Roll  them  in  well ;  then  put 
them  on  to  broil  for  four  minutes  on  each  side  ;  arrange  them 
on  a  hot  dish  with  six  slices  of  toast ;  pour  a  gill  of  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  over  the  mushrooms,  and  serve. 

Mushroom  Brown  Sauce. — For  a  can  of  mushrooms,  put 
into  a  saucepan  a  heaping  tablespoonful  each  of  butter  and 
flour ;  stir  them  together  over  the  fire  until  they  begin  to 
brown,  then  gradually  stir  in  the  liquor  from  the  can,  adding 
water  if  any  is  needed  to  make  the  sauce  of  the  proper  con- 
sistency ;  add  the  mushrooms,  season  the  sauce  palatably  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  very  little  grated  nutmeg;  when  the  mush- 


360  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

rooms  are  hot,  stir  in  a  wineglassful  of  sherry  or  Madeira,  and 
serve  the  mushrooms  as  a  vegetable. 

Toast  may  be  served  under  them  to  increase  the  size  of  the 
dish  ;  or  the  sauce  and  the  mushrooms  may  be  poured  on  a  dish 
with  broiled  beefsteak  or  broiled  chicken,  or  with  a  baked  or 
roasted  tenderloin  of  beef. 

Mushroom  Stems  Stewed. — Use  the  stems  of  the  mush- 
rooms when  the  caps  have  been  already  cooked ;  cut  them  in 
rather  small  pieces  ;  put  them  over  the  fire  with  a  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  butter  to  a  pint  of  stems,  together  with  a  pala- 
table seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  stew  them  gently  until 
they  are  tender. 

Mushrooms  with  Cream. — One  pound  of  mushrooms;  one 
yolk ;  one  dessertspoonful  of  starch  ;  one-half  cupful  of  cream  or 
milk;  two  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley;  time,  fifteen  min- 
utes. 

Preparation. — Pour  mushrooms  in  a  saucepan,  add  one  ounce 
of  butter,  and  boil  twelve  minutes.  Place  the  saucepan  on  a 
corner  of  the  range,  and  add  the  yolk  mixed  in  a  bowl  with 
the  corn-starch,  and  the  cream  and  some  chopped  parsley,  and 
serve.  You  can  use  the  canned  mushrooms. 


CELERY. 

FRENCH    AND    AMERICAN    FORMULAS. 

Celery  a  la  Moelle  de  Bo3uf.— Select  four  heads  of  nice  cel- 
ery, cut  off  the  green  leaves,  pare  neatly,  wash  thoroughly, 
drain,  and  tie  each  head  near  the  end  where  the  green  part  has 
been  cut  away.  Blanch  them  in  salted  boiling  water  for  ten 
minutes ;  then  remove,  drain,  and  put  them  in  a  pan  with  a  cup 
of  Madeira  sauce.  Cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  Arrange  the  heads 
pn  a  hot  dish  ;  remove  the  strings,  and  add  to  the  sauce  in  the 


Vegetables  :  Celery.  361 

pan  ten  slices  of  marrow  one-third  of  an  inch  thick.  Cook  for 
one  minute  or  so,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  pieces  of  mar- 
row ;  pour  the  sauce  over  the  celery,  and  serve. 

Celery  a  la  Creme. — Nine  nice  stalks  Kalamazoo  celery; 
corn-starch,  four  teaspoonfuls ;  milk,  one  cupful ;  butter,  two 
tablespoonfuls.  Use  the  upper  half  of  the  celery  instead  of  the 
lower  part.  Wash  and  cut  in  pieces  two  inches  long.  Cook  in 
boiling  water  until  tender  (fifteen  to  twenty  minutes)  and  drip. 
Pour  the  celery  in  a  saucepan  with  the  butter ;  add  the  cold 
milk  or  cream,  in  which  you  have  mixed  the  corn-starch.  Boil 
a  little  while  longer,  and  serve  in  a  hollow  dish  as  a  side-dish. 

Celery  with  Tomato  Sauce. — Prepare  the  celery  as  in  the 
preceding  recipe,  and  cook  until  tender  in  a  small  quantity  of 
boiling  water.  Drain  in  a  colander,  and  for  three  cups  of  stewed 
celery  prepare  a  sauce  with  a  pint  of  strained  stewed  tomato, 
heated  to  boiling  and  thickened  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour 
rubbed  smooth  in  a  little  cold  water.  If  desired,  add  a  half  cup 
of  thin  cream.  Turn  over  the  celery,  and  serve  hot. 

Celery  and  Potato  Hash. — To  three  cups  of  cold  boiled  or 
baked  potato,  chopped  rather  fine,  add  one  cup  of  cooked  cel- 
ery, minced.  Put  into  a  shallow  saucepan  with  cream  enough 
to  moisten  well,  and  salt  to  season.  Heat  to  boiling,  tossing 
and  stirring  so  that  the  whole  will  be  heated  throughout,  and 
serve  hot. 

Stewed  Celery. — Cut  the  white  part  of  fine  heads  of  celery 
into  small  pieces,  blanch  in  boiling  water,  turn  into  a  colander, 
and  drain.  Heat  a  cup  and  a  half  of  milk  to  boiling  in  a  stew- 
pan  ;  add  the  celery,  and  stew  gently  until  tender.  Remove 
the  celery  with  a  skimmer,  and  stir  into  the  milk  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs  and  one-half  cup  of  cream.  Cook  until  thick- 
ened ;  pour  over  the  celery,  and  serve. 


362  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 


VEGETABLE  OYSTER  OR  SALSIFY. 

Salsify  or  Vegetable  Oyster. — After  scraping  off  the  out- 
side, parboil  and  slice  the  salsify ;  dip  the  slices  into  a  beaten 
egg,  then  into  fine  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  lard.  It  is  very 
good  boiled,  and  then  stewed  a  few  minutes  in  milk,  with  a  little 
salt  and  butter.  Or  make  a  batter  of  wheat  flour,  milk,  and 
eggs ;  cut  the  salsify  in  thin  slices  (first  boiling  it  tender),  put 
them  into  the  batter  with  a  little  salt,  and  drop  mixture  into  hot 
fat  by  spoonful.  Cook  them  until  they  are  a  light  brown. 

Oyster  Plant  with  Cream. — Scrape  a  bunch  of  tender 
oyster-plant,  putting  the  roots,  as  they  are  scraped,  in  cold  water 
to  which  a  little  vinegar  has  been  added  ;  cut  the  oyster  plant  in 
pieces,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  for 
about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  it  is  tender;  then  drain  it;  add 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  cream  enough  to  cover  it,  and  a  pala- 
table seasoning  of  salt  and  white  pepper.  Serve  it  as  soon  as 
the  cream  is  hot.  The  cream  may  be  omitted  if  desired. 

After  oyster-plant  has  been  boiled,  it  can  be  mashed  through 
a  colander,  with  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  and  but- 
ter, and  heated  and  served ;  or  mashed  and  made  into  little 
cakes,  and  browned  in  butter ;  or  scalloped,  with  the  addition  of 
bread-crumbs  and  seasoning,  and  browned  in  a  hot  oven. 

Fried  Salsify. — Stew  the  salsify  as  usual  till  very  tender ; 
then  with  the  back  of  a  spoon  or  a  potato-jammer  mash  it  very 
fine.  Beat  up  an  egg ;  add  a  teacupful  of  milk,  a  little  flour, 
butter,  and  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt.  Make  into  little 
cakes,  and  fry  a  light  brown  in  boiling  lard,  first  rolling  in 
beaten  egg  and  then  flour. 


Vegetables  :  Artichokes.  363 

ARTICHOKES. 
PROM   FRENCH   FORMULAS. 

Artichokes  Boiled. — Wash  in  plenty  of  cold  salte-  water; 
let  them  remain  in  the  water  for  some  time  if  they  are  not  fresh  ; 
boil  them  in  enough  salted  boiling  water  to  cover  them  until  the 
leaves  are  tender,  or  until  a  leaf  can  be  pulled  out  easily ;  then 
drain  the  artichokes,  trim  off  the  tops  of  the  leaves,  partly  cut 
the  artichokes  through  the  centre,  and  remove  the  choke  with  a 
teaspoon  ;  work  quickly,  lest  the  artichokes  become  cold,  and  if 
they  do,  heat  them  in  boiling  water  before  serving  them.  Serve 
the  artichokes  with  white  sauce,  or  Hollandaise  sauce,  or  with 
butter,  salt,  and  pepper.  They  can  also  be  served  with  a  plain 
salad  dressing,  or  maitre  d' hotel  butter. 

Fried  Artichokes. — Prepare  the  artichokes  as  described 
above ;  cut  each  artichoke  into  six  pieces ;  remove  the  choke 
with  a  spoon ;  pare  the  tips  of  the  remaining  leaves,  and  lay  the 
pieces  in  a  bowl  with  some  sweet-oil,  salt,  and  pepper,  a  third 
of  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar.  Stir  all 
well  together.  Make  a  frying  batter,  dip  in  the  artichokes,  and 
mix  well.  Fry  some  fat  in  a  pan  ;  lay  the  pieces  in  carefully, 
stir  well,  and  don't  allow  pieces  to  touch  one  another,  and  allow 
to  fry  for  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  of  nice  golden 
color ;  then  take  out  and  serve. 

Artichokes  Sautes. — Prepare  some  nice  artichokes  as  de- 
scribed ;  cut  them  into  quarters,  and  remove  the  choke  entirely. 
Trim  the  leaves  neatly,  and  parboil  them  for  five  minutes  in 
salted  water.  Remove  and  drain  them  thoroughly.  Lay  them 
in  a  pan,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  some  good  but- 
ter. Cover  the  pan  with  the  lid,  and  set  to  cook  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Take  it  out,  place  the  artichokes 
in  a  deep  dish,  and  serve  with  any  desired  sauce. 


364  Cooking  and  Houskeeeping  Simplified. 


CUCUMBERS. 

Stuffed  Cucumbers. — Peel  four  large  cucumbers,  pare  them 
carefully  and  shapely  ;  cut  off  the  lower  ends,  and  with  a  vege- 
table-spoon empty  them.  After  extracting  all  the  seeds,  place 
them  in  a  slight  solution  of  salt  water  ;  rinse  them  well,  and  par- 
boil them  in  boiling  water  for  three  minutes.  Remove  them, 
and  put  in  cold  water  to  cool.  Drain  them,  and  fill  the  insides 
with  a  cooked  chicken  forcemeat  (see  page  217).  Line  a  pan 
with  thin  slices  of  pork;  add  the  cucumbers,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper ;  add  a  bouquet  of  herbs,  a  glassful  of  white 
wine,  two  cloves,  and  a  spoonful  of  dripping  from  any  kind  of 
roast.  Cover  with  a  piece  of  buttered  paper,  and  place  it  in  a 
slow  oven  to  cook  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  When  done, 
transfer  them  to  a  hot  dish  ;  skim  off  the  fat,  pour  one  cup 
Madeira  sauce  over  them,  take  out  the  bouquet  of  herbs,  and 
serve. 

Fried  Cucumbers. — Pare  them,  and  cut  lengthwise  in  very 
thick  slices ;  wipe  them  dry  with  a  cloth ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  dredge  with  flour,  and  fry  in  lard  and  butter,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  each,  mixed.  Brown  both  sides,  and  serve  warm. 

Stewed  Cucumbers  for  Garnishing.— Peel  and  slice  two 
large  cucumbers  ;  sprinkle  them  with  salt,  pepper  ;  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar ;  add  one  small  sliced  onion  ;  let  stand  for 
one  hour,  drain  off  the  liquid,  put  all  in  a  pan  with  a  large  cup- 
ful of  Universal  sauce  (see  Sauces,  page  208) ;  cook  for  twenty 
minutes  ;  strain  through  fine  sieve  or  cheese-cloth,  and  use  for 
garnishing  purposes. 

Cucumbers  with  Cream. — Four  large  cucumbers ;  one  cup- 
ful  of  cream,  six  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one  good  teaspoonful 
of  sugar  ;  salt  to  suit  the  taste.  Pare  the  cucumbers  ;  cut  them 
in  four  endwise,  take  the  seeds  out,  and  cut  them  in  pieces 


Vegetables:  Greens,  365 

about  two  and  one  half  inches  in  length.  Melt  the  butter  in  a 
stew  pan,  and  when  warm  add  the  cucumbers.  Cook  on  good 
fire  for  ten  minutes.  Add  the  cream,  a  little  salt  and  sugar, 
boil  awhile  and  serve  as  a  side-dish. 

It  is  best  to  let  cucumbers  lie  in  salt  water  for  two  or  three 
hours  before  preparing. 


GREENS. 

Sea  Kale. — The  stalk  of  sea-kale,  when  cooked,  is  some- 
what like  asparagus ;  the  growing  plant  has  thick  stalks  and 
large  leaves,  like  pie-plant,  which  take  on  a  purplish-green  color 
when  exposed  to  sun  and  air.  Like  celery  and  pie-plant,  sea 
kale  must  be  blanched  while  growing,  or  the  taste  will  be  bitter ; 
and  it  must  be  kept  in  a  dark  place  after  it  is  cut.  The  kale 
grows  in  roots  with  stalks  attached,  like  celery.  To  prepare  it 
for  cooking,  the  roots  and  large  leaves  must  be  trimmed  off,  the 
plants  thoroughly  washed  in  cold  salted  water,  and  then  tied  up 
like  asparagus.  The  young  shoots  are  the  best,  but  the  stalks 
or  midribs  of  the  leaves  are  good  if  they  are  white  and  crisp. 
When  the  stalks  are  tied  up,  put  them  into  salted  boiling  water, 
and  boil  them  until  they  are  tender,  which  will  be  in  about 
twenty  minutes,  if  the  kale  is  good  ;  then  drain  them,  and  dress 
them  with  salt,  pepper,  butter  and  a  little  lemon-juice,  and 
serve  them  hot ;  or  serve  the  kale  on  toast  like  asparagus.  Any 
sauce  suitable  for  asparagus  will  be  excellent  for  sea-kale. 

Dandelions. — These  are  relished  by  many,  as  well  as  spinach 
cooked  in  the  same  way.  Take  the  young  leaves  before  the 
plant  blossoms  or  while  in  the  bud,  wash  quite  clean,  boil 
tender  in  salted  water,  drain  well  and  press  them  dry.  They 
can  be  served  plain  with  melted  butter,  or  can  be  chopped  and 
heated  afresh  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  butter  rolled  in 


366  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

flour,  and  a  spoonful  or  two  of  gravy  or  cream.  A  large  quan- 
tity should  be  boiled,  as  they  shrink  very  much.  The  dandelion 
is  considered  very  healthy,  and  the  slight  bitterness  is  relished 
by  most  persons. 

Spring  Greens. — Young  beet  and  turnip  tops  make  nice 
greens  in  the  early  spring.  Pick,  and  wash  them  carefully  from 
dust  and  insects,  and  boil  with  them  a  small  piece  of  salt  pork, 
bacon,  ham  or  corned  beef.  Drain  free  from  water,  and  serve 
with  vinegar.  They  may  be  boiled  plain,  and  served  with  gravy 
sauce. 

Radishes. — Wash  thoroughly  young  and  tender  radishes, 
and  arrange  in  a  glass  dish  with  the  taper  ends  meeting.  Scat- 
ter bits  of  cracked  ice  among  them.  An  inch  of  the  stem,  if 
left  on,  serves  as  a  convenience  in  handling. 

Lettuce. — Wash  well,  put  into  cold  water,  and  set  on  ice  or 
on  the  cellar  bottom  for  an  hour  or  more  before  using.  Dry 
the  leaves  with  a  soft  towel,  and  use  whole  or  tear  into  conven- 
ient pieces  with  a  silver  fork;  never  cut  with  a  knife.  Serve 
with  a  dressing  prepared  of  equal  quantities  of  lemon-juice  and 
sugar,  diluted  with  a  little  ice  water.  It  is  also  very  nice  if 
dressed  with  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg,  a  little  vinegar,  sweet-oil, 
mayonnaise  dressing,  and  a  little  sugar. 

How  to  Prepare  Spinach. — Trim  off  the  roots  and  tough 
stalks  of  half  a  peck  of  spinach,  wash  it  in  plenty  of  cold  salted 
water  until  it  is  quite  free  from  sand,  put  it  over  the  fire  in 
salted  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  it,  and  boil  it  fast  for  three 
minutes  or  longer,  until  it  is  just  tender :  do  not  allow  it  to 
become  soft  and  watery  ;  drain  the  spinach,  throw  it  into  a 
large  pan  of  cold  water  until  it  is  cool,  then  chop  it  very  fine,  or 
rub  it  through  a  colander  with  a  potato-masher ;  put  it  again 
over  the  fire  to  heat,  with  a  palatable  seasoning  of  butter,  salt, 
and  pepper ;  while  the  spinach  is  being  heated,  poach  half  a 
dozen  eggs  soft,  and  when  it  is  dished  lay  them  upon  it  and 
serve  the  dish  hot. 


Vegetables  :  Greens.  367 

The  spinach  may  be  served  without  the  eggs.  Boiled  spin- 
ach is  good  dressed  with  white  sauce  or  gravy,  or  fried  with 
butter,  either  with  or  without  the  addition  of  a  very  little  grated 
onion. 

Spinach  Blanched. — Select  one-half  peck  of  fresh,  sound 
spinach  ;  cut  off  the  stalks,  pare  neatly,  wash  in  plenty  of  water, 
lifting  it  out  with  the  hands  until  free  from  sand.  Place  it  in 
boiling  salted  water,  and  boil  it  ten  to  twelve  minutes.  Remove, 
and  drain  it  thoroughly  ;  place  it  in  cold  water  again,  and  let  it 
cool.  Lift  and  drain,  pressing  it  well ;  lay  it  on  a  board,  and 
mince  it  very  fine. 

Spinach  a  la  Fraiicaise. — Blanch  and  prepare  about  one- 
half  peck  of  spinach  described  as  in  Spinach,  Blanched  ;  after  it 
is  chopped  fine  put  in  a  pan  with  a  tablespoonful  or  more  of 
butter,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg ;  stir  with  a  spoon,  and  allow  it 
to  cook  for  about  five  minutes,  adding  a  tablespoonful  of  butter 
kneaded  with  one  tablespoonful  each  of  flour  and  sugar,  and  a 
teacupf  ul  of  milk ;  stir  frequently,  and  allow  to  cook  for  ten  min- 
utes more ;  then  serve,  garnishing  with  pieces  of  fried  bread  and 
slices  of  hard-boiled  egg. 

Spinach  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel. — Blanch  the  spinach  as  de- 
scribed, and  chopping  it  very  fine,  put  it  dry  into  a  saucepan. 
Let  it  simmer  on  a  moderate  fire,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  a  little  of  grated  nutmeg.  When  warm,  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  ;  stir  well,  and  let  it  heat  for  twelve  to  fifteen 
minutes.  Lay  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  decorate  it  with  six  pieces 
of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Spinach  prepared  by  these  formulas  is  much  better  than 
by  the  ordinary  American  method,  and  those  who  prefer  it  may 
have  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg  added  ;  this  makes  a  very  nice 
garnish,  and  makes  the  spinach  more  appetizing. 


368  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 


HOMINY  AND  OKRAS. 

Boiled  Hominy. — Wash  four  cupfuls  of  hominy  in  cold  water: 
drain  off  the  water ;  put  it  in  a  pan,  covering  over  with  four  coffee- 
cups  of  water ;  place  pan  on  stove ;  season  to  suit  the  taste  ;  boil 
for  nearly  one-half  hour,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Hominy. — Wash  a  cupful  of  hominy,  put  it  over  the 
fire  in  two  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  slowly  heat  and  boil  it 
gently  for  about  four  hours,  or  until  it  is  quite  soft ;  then  drain 
it,  and  place  it  where  the  water  will  evaporate,  while  a  cream 
gravy  is  being  made  as  follows :  Put  over  the  fire  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  butter,  and  partly  melt  them  ;  when  the  butter  is  quite 
soft,  gradually  stir  with  it  half  a  pint  of  cream  or  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  milk ;  if  the  cream  is  used,  add  it  to  the  hominy  as  soon 
as  it  is  hot ,  if  milk  is  used,  take  it  off  the  fire  when  it  is  hot,  stir 
with  it  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  and  mix  it  with  the  hominy ; 
serve  as  soon  as  the  milk  or  cream  is  added,  as  it  curdles  easily. 

Fried  Hominy. — Take  cold-boiled  hominy  and  cut  into 
slices ;  dip  each  slice  into  beaten  egg ;  roll  in  bread  crumbs ; 
fry  in  very  hot  butter  or  lard  until  a  good  golden  brown,  and 
serve. 

Okra. — This  grows  in  the  shape  of  pods,  and  is  of  a  gelati- 
nous character,  much  used  for  soup,  and  is  also  pickled  ;  it  may 
be  boiled  as  follows :  Put  the  young  and  tender  pods  of  long 
white  okra  in  salted  boiling  water  in  granite,  porcelain,  or  a  tin- 
lined  saucepan — as  contact  with  iron  will  discolor  it ;  boil  fifteen 
minutes ;  remove  the  stems,  and  serve  with  butter,  pepper,  salt, 
and  vinegar  if  preferred. 

Okras  Sautes  a  la  Francaise. — Boil  one  dozen  okras  as 
above  ;  place  in  a  separate  pan  one  tablespoonful  of  good  butter, 
one-half  of  a  finely  chopped  green  pepper,  and  one-half  of  a 
finely  chopped  onion.  Place  pan  over  the  fire  and  allow  to  re- 
main until  they  are  of  a  good  golden  brown ;  add  a  raw  tomato, 


Macaroni  and  Spaghetti.  369 

cut  in  fine  pieces ;  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste ;  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  Universal  sauce  (see  Meat  Sauces,  page  208) ;  then 
add  the  boiled  okras,  cover  the  vessel,  and  allow  to  cook  slowly 
for  about  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes,  and  serve. 


MACARONI  AND  SPAGHETTI. 
FROM    FRENCH   AND    ITALIAN    CHEFS. 

Baked  Macaroni. — Use  Italian  macaroni.  Soak  it  in  water 
for  about  two  hours  ;  then  boil  it  in  milk  until  tender.  Place  the 
macaroni  in  a  dish  in  layers,  putting  on  each  layer  salt,  cayenne 
pepper,  pieces  of  butter,  and  grated  cheese,  finishing  with  the 
cheese.  Then  put  in  the  oven,  and  bake  to  a  nice  brown. 

Macaroni  a  la  Italienne. — Use  Italian  macaroni.  Macaroni, 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  ;  butter,  three  tablespoonfuls ;  one- 
quarter  pound  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Preparation  :  Cook  the 
macaroni  in  some  salted  water  (cover  well  with  water)  till  quite 
soft ;  let  it  drip  ;  drain  off  the  water,  and  replace  the  macaroni  in 
the  same  kettle  in  which  it  had  been  cooked  ;  add  the  butter,  the 
cheese,  some  salt  and  pepper;  allow  the  butter  and  the  cheese 
to  melt  while  stirring,  but  don't  place  the  kettle  over  fire  again. 
By  doing  so,  the  butter  and  the  cheese  remain  half  melted,  and 
the  macaroni  is  very  palatable.  It  generally  takes  from  fifteen 
to  eighteen  minutes  to  cook. 

Macaroni  a  la  Napolitaine.— Boil  the  macaroni  in  salt  and 
water  as  described  ;  drain,  place  it  in  a  pan,  and  add  a  cupful  of 
Universal  sauce,  cupful  of  tomato  sauce,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  grated  cheese,  six  mushrooms,  one  tablespoonful  of  cooked, 
smoked  beef  tongue,  all  cut  up  in  dice-shaped  pieces.  Cook  to- 
gether over  a  good  fire  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  them  well  mean- 
while, and  serve. 


370  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Macaroni  a  la  Crenie. — Boil  one  pound  macaroni  for  forty- 
five  minutes  in  salted  water,  adding  about  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  and  an  onion  stuck  with  two  cloves.  Drain  off  water,  and 
put  it  back  into  a  saucepan  with  nine  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
one  teacup  of  grated  Swiss  cheese,  the  same  quantity  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  a  small  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  good  pinch  of 
pepper.  Add  a  cupful  of  white  broth  and  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream.  Cook  all  together  for  five  minutes,  stirring  well,  and 
when  the  macaroni  becomes  ropy,  dish  it  up,  and  serve. 

Spaghetti  a  la  Napolitaine. — Boil  the  spaghetti  (about  one 
pound)  in  the  same  manner  as  described  for  macaroni ;  then  drain 
off  the  salted  water  and  add  a  good  coffeecupful  of  Universal 
sauce,  and  the  same  of  tomato  sauce ;  cut  up  in  small  pieces  a 
piece  of  smoked  beef  tongue,  seven  mushrooms  (one  or  two 
truffles,  if  handy),  and  add  same ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  a  teacupful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Cook  all  for  about 
ten  or  twelve  minutes,  stirring  well,  and  serve. 

N.  B. — See  Fish  and  Meat  Sauces  for  the  sauces  mentioned, 
pages  199—212.  The  teacup  should  hold  about  six  ounces  of 
cheese. 


GRAINS  OR  CEREAL  FOOD. 


Grains  or  cereals  belong  to  the  grass  family.  They  are  largely 
used  for  food,  both  in  the  unground  state  and  in  various  manu- 
factured forms.  They  are  considered  the  most  nutritious  of 
foods,  and  are  easily  digested  when  properly  cooked.  They 
contain  more  or  less  of  the  nitrogenous  elements,  such  as  albu- 
men, caseine,  gluten,  and  fibrine.  They  also  contain  starch, 
sugar,  dextrine,  and  fatty  substances  ;  also  cellulose  and  mineral 
elements.  Scientists  claim  they  are  three  times  more  nutritious 
than  meats  or  poultry,  and  should  enter  into  our  daily  bill  of 
fare,  as  they,  more  than  any  other  food,  meet  the  proper  require- 
ments of  the  human  system. 

There  are  no  foods  when  properly  prepared  more  easy  to 
digest  or  more  palatable  ;  and  physicians  recognize  this  fact  by 
prescribing  them  for  the  sick  and  convalescent.  But  when  cereal 
food  is  not  properly  prepared  and  cooked  it  is  liable  to  be  injuri- 
ous to  the  stomach.  The  excessive  use  of  sugar  in  the  serving 
or  cooking  of  cereal  food  is  very  wrong  and  should  be  discon- 
tinued, as  the  starch  and  glucose  matter  in  the  grains,  and  of 
which  they  contain  a  large  proportion,  should  be  converted  into 
sugar  by  our  digestive  organs  before  assimilation  ;  and  by  add- 
ing sugar  it  only  overtaxes  the  digestive  organs,  and  hence  the 
distress  arising  at  times  from  eating  cereal  food  with  sugar, 
or  if  not  properly  cooked,  as  the  starch  will  remain  undigested 
in  the  stomach  and  cause  great  distress,  as  the  gastric  juices 
digest  only  the  nitrogenous  matter.  A  good  precaution  would 
be  in  eating  grain  foods  to  eat  some  hard  food  with  same,  such 
as  toasts,  wafers,  zwieback,  etc.;  this  would  require  a  certain 
amount  of  mastication  to  break  them  up  properly,  and  would 


372 


Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 


mix  them  well  with  the  saliva,  which  would  aid  in  their  proper 
digestion. 

The  Proper  Cooking  of  Grains  or  Cereal  Food. — All  cereal 
food,  with  the  exception  of  the  various  meals  and  rice,  should 
be  cooked  from  three  to  five  hours  over  moderate  fire  and  with 
an  even  degree  of  heat.  This  will  cook  them  properly,  and 
change  their  starch  into  dextrine,  and  makes  them  easy  of  diges- 
tion. A  double  boiler  or  steam  cooker  is  the  best  to  use  for  the 
cooking  of  grains.  Or  a  good  substitute  for  a  double  boiler  is  a 
small  vessel  containing  the  grains  set  in  a  larger  vessel  contain- 
ing the  boiling  water ;  and  put  these  on  stove  to  cook  as  de- 
scribed. 

In  cooking  grains  soft  water  should  be  used,  and  if  salt  is 
added  it  should  be  added  in  the  water  before  stirring  in  the 
grain  or  meal. 

As  different  grains  require  different  time  and  different  quan- 
tities of  liquid,  the  table  given  below  will  be  a  good  rule  to  fol- 
low to  cook  them  to  the  proper  consistency.  If  an  ordinary 
vessel  is  used  they  require  more  liquid.  In  adding  milk  in  the 
cooking  of  such  cereal  food  as  rice,  hominy,  and  farina,  use  about 
two-thirds  water  and  one-third  milk,  or  an  equal  proportion  of 
each : 


£ 

o 
Whole  Wheat  

|UAN 
F  GF 

P; 

[ 
[ 

TITY      QUANTITY 
IAIN.      OF  LIQUID. 

irt          5  parts 

4     " 
3     " 

4     " 
3     " 
4    " 
4     "      . 
5    " 
3     " 
5    " 

HOURS 
TO  COOK. 

6  to  7 
4to4f 
3  to3* 
3  to  3£ 
3  to  3£ 
3£  to  4 
4  to  5 
6  to  7 

3  to  31 

4  to  4^ 

Pearl           "      

Rolled        "     

Cracked      "      

Rolled  Oats  

Graham  Grits  ........ 

Oatmeal  

*  Hominy  

Rolled  Rye  ] 

Pearl  Barley  .  .  

Fine  Hominy  takes  from  i  to  2  hours  less  time. 


Grains  or  Cereal  Food.  373 

This  time  refers  to  cereals  in  their  natural  state,  and  not  to 
the  "  steam-cooked  grains  "  now  on  the  market. 

Always  have  the  water  boiling  when  the  grains  are  added. 
Add  the  grains  in  slowly  so  as  not  to  reduce  the  temperature  of 
the  water,  and  let  it  boil  rapidly  until  the  grains  cease  to  sink 
to  the  bottom  of  vessel  and  they  become  thick.  If  grains  are 
cooked  in  a  double  boiler  or  steamer,  the  first  cooking,  until 
they  are  thickened,  should  be  in  the  inner  dish  directly  over  the 
fire,  and  then  they  should  be  placed  in  the  outer  boiler  contain- 
ing the  boiling  water,  and  this  should  be  kept  boiling  until  the 
grains  are  done.  See  that  the  outer  boiler  is  kept  filled  with 
boiling  water. 

In  cooking  grains  in  a  single  vessel  they  require  continuous 
stirring  until  they  become  thickened  or  "  set,"  but  do  not  stir 
afterward.  In  a  steam  cooker  or  double  boiler  the  stirring  will 
not  be  necessary.  If  you  desire  the  mush  thick  and  dry,  leave 
the  vessel  uncovered  during  the  last  part  of  the  cooking.  If  you 
prefer  it  moist,  keep  vessel  covered. 

In  the  cooking  of  mush  with  flour  or  meal  it  is  best  to  make 
them  into  a  batter,  with  a  portion  of  the  necessary  quantity 
of  liquid  given  in  the  Table,  before  adding  it  to  the  water. 
This  prevents  it  from  cooking  into  lumps ;  but  it  must  be  added 
slowly,  and  stirred  constantly,  so  as  not  to  reduce  the  tempera- 
ture. 

Fresh  berries,  raisins,  or  currants  can  be  added  to  the  differ- 
ent cooked  grains  mentioned,  but  they  must  not  be  cooked  with 
them  or  they  will  be  insipid.  Steam  the  currants  or  raisins  pre- 
viously, and  then  mix  just  before  serving  the  cereal  food. 

The  fresh  berries  mix  with  a  little  cream  before  stirring  into 
the  grains,  and  serve  hot. 

To  Cook  Farina. — Take  one  quart  of  milk  (or  one-half  milk 
and  one-half  soft  water).  Boil  same  in  a  vessel,  and  when  boil- 
ing add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  farina,  which  has  been  previously 
moistened  with  some  milk ;  let  boil  until  it  thickens,  then  place 


374  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

vessel  in  the  steam  cooker,  or  in  vessel  of  boiling  water,  and  boil 
continuously  for  about  one  hour  or  so,  and  serve  hot  or  cold 
with  cream  or  the  juices  of  fruit.  Fresh  fruits  or  berries  can  be 
served  with  farina  by  pouring  the  farina,  just  after  it  is  cooked, 
over  the  finely  sliced  apples,  peaches,  banan  as,  or  any  fruit  pre- 
ferred, or  over  the  berries  mixed  with  cream. 

Graham  Mush. — Mix  one  pint  of  good  Graham  flour  with  a 
pint  of  warm  water,  or  enough  to  make  a  batter  thin  enough  to 
pour.  Pour  this  batter  into  a  quart  of  water  boiling  in  the  inner 
cup  of  a  double  boiler.  Add  the  batter  sufficiently  slow,  so  as 
not  to  stop  the  boiling  of  the  water.  When  thickened,  put  into 
the  outer  boiler,  and  cook  for  one  hour.  You  can  use  milk  in- 
stead of  water.  If  desiring  to  use  fruits  or  berries  with  the 
mush,  add  over  the  fruits  as  described  in  "  Farina." 

Oatmeal  Mush  and  Fruit. — Cook  the  oatmeal  as  described 
in  cooking  grains  (page  372).  When  it  is  done,  just  before  serv- 
ing, stir  in  gently  some  sliced  fruits,  such  as  apples,  peaches, 
bananas,  or  berries  if  preferred.  Try  to  keep  the  sliced  fruits 
or  berries  as  whole  as  possible.  Plain  oatmeal  or  oatmeal  and 
fruit  should  be  eaten  with  toasted  bread,  wafers,  or  other  hard 
food. 

Oatmeal  Blanc  Mange. — Mix  equal  parts  of  well-cooked  oat- 
meal and  milk,  part  cream  if  preferred.  Beat  well  together  and 
strain  through  a  fine  wire  sieve.  Turn  the  liquid  into  a  sauce- 
pan, and  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  until  it  is  thick  enough  to  drop 
from  the  point  of  a  spoon ;  then  turn  into  cups  previously  wet 
in  cold  water,  and  mold.  Serve  with  a  dressing  of  fruit  juice  or 
whipped  cream  slightly  sweetened  and  flavored  with  lemon. 

Oatmeal  Porridge. — Add  one  coffee-cup  of  oatmeal  into 
three  pints  of  boiling  water;  boiling  in  the  inner  dish  of  a 
double  boiler;  add  the  oatmeal  gradually.  Boil  rapidly,  stirring 
meanwhile  until  the  grain  is  set ;  then  place  in  the  outer  boiler, 
and  cook  continuously  for  three  hours  or  longer.  A  half  cup  of 
cream  added  just  before  serving  is  a  desirable  addition. 


Grains  or  Cereal  Food.  375 

Barley. — The  cooking  of  barley  is  the  same  as  for  oatmeal. 
It  should  be  cooked  slowly  in  a  steam-cooker  or  double  boiler. 
The  time  generally  used  is  from  four  to  four  and  a  half  hours, 
unless  it  has  been  previously  soaked  or  steamed,  as  prepared  by 
manufacturers. 

Baked  Barley. — Soak  one  cupful  of  barley  in  cold  water 
over  night.  In  the  morning  turn  off  the  water,  and  put  the 
barley  in  an  earthen  pudding-dish,  and  pour  over  two  quarts  of 
boiling  water;  add  salt  if  desired,  and  bake  in  a  moderately 
quick  oven  about  two  and  one-half  hours,  or  till  perfectly  soft, 
and  all  the  water  is  absorbed.  When  about  half  done,  add  six 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  mixed  with  grated  lemon  peel.  It  may 
be  eaten  warm,  but  is  very  nice  molded  in  cups  and  served  cold 
with  cream. 

Pearl  Barley  with  Raisins. — Wash  a  coffeecupful  of  pearl 
barley.  Cook  in  a  steamer  in  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  for 
four  hours.  Just  before  serving,  add  a  cupful  of  raisins  which 
have  been  prepared  by  pouring  boiling  water  over  them  and 
allowing  them  to  stand  until  swollen.  Serve  hot  with  cream. 

Rice. — Rice  requires  much  less  time  to  cook  than  other 
cereal  foods,  and  not  as  much  water ;  for  if  boiled  in  too  much 
water  it  loses  some  of  the  nitrogenous  elements,  of  which  it  con- 
tains but  very  little,  and  therefore  it  should  be  eaten  with  foods 
that  contain  a  good  percentage  of  the  nutritious  elements,  such 
as  beans,  peas,  milk,  etc. 

To  Cook  or  Steam  Rice. — It  first  should  be  thoroughly 
cleaned  by  putting  in  a  colander,  and  then  in  a  deep  vessel  of 
fresh  water.  Rub  the  rice  well  with  the  hands,  lifting  the 
colander  in  and  out  of  the  water.  Do  this  until  water  is  clean. 
Then  place  the  rice  in  a  double  boiler  or  steamer,  with  equal 
proportions  of  milk  or  water,  and  steam  or  allow  to  boil  until 
each  grain  is  separate  and  distinct  and  perfectly  tender.  In 
cooking  you  can  use  equal  parts  of  milk  and  water  if  preferred, 
or  you  can  use  one  and  a  half  pints  of  liquid  to  a  pint  of  rice. 


376  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Rice  and  Oranges. — Prepare  the  rice  according  to  direc- 
tions given  ;  steam  same.  Prepare  some  oranges  by  separating 
into  sections  and  cutting  each  section  in  halves,  removing  the 
seeds  with  a  fork  and  all  the  white  portion.  Sprinkle  the 
oranges  with  sugar,  and  let  them  stand  while  the  rice  is  cooking. 
Serve  a  portion  of  the  orange  on  each  dish  of  rice. 

Rice  with  Raisins. — Prepare  a  cupful  of  rice  as  directed  for 
Steamed  Rice.  After  the  rice  has  begun  to  swell,  but  before  it 
has  softened,  stir  into  it  lightly,  using  a  fork  for  the  purpose,  a 
cupful  of  raisins  or  currants.  Serve  with  cream. 

Rice  with  Fruits. — Steam  the  rice  as  directed,  and  when 
done  serve  with  cream  and  fruits,  pared  and  sliced  on  each  indi- 
vidual dish. 

Boiled  Rice  (Japanese  method). — Thoroughly  cleanse  the 
rice  by  washing  in  several  waters,  and  soak  it  over  night.  In 
the  morning  drain  it,  and  put  to  cook  in  an  equal  quantity  of 
boiling  water,  that  is,  a  pint  of  water  for  a  pint  of  rice.  For 
cooking,  a  stewpan  with  tightly  fitting  cover  should  be  used. 
Heat  the  water  to  boiling,  then  add  the  rice,  and,  after  stirring, 
put  on  the  cover,  which  is  not  again  to  be  removed  during  the 
boiling.  At  first,  as  the  water  boils,  steam  will  puff  out  freely 
from  under  the  cover ;  but  when  the  water  has  nearly  evapo- 
rated, which  will  be  in  eight  to  ten  minutes,  according  to  the 
age  and  quality  of  the  rice,  only  a  faint  suggestion  of  steam  will 
be  observed,  and  the  stewpan  must  then  be  removed  from  over 
the  fire  to  some  place  on  the  range,  where  it  will  not  burn,  to 
swell  and  dry  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

Rice  a  la  Italienne. — Wash  well  a  cupful  of  rice ;  place  it 
in  a  pan  with  two  cups  of  cold  water  and  a  pinch  of  salt ;  put 
on  the  cover,  and  boil  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Pour  through  a 
colander,  being  careful  to  let  it  drain  thoroughly  without  crush- 
ing the  rice,  otherwise  it  will  be  spoiled.  When  well  dried, 
return  it  to  the  pan,  put  the  lid  on,  and  leave  it  on  the  corner  of 


Grains  or  Cereal  Food.  /377 

the  stove  to  dry  gradually  for  five  or  six  minutes.  It  will  then 
be  ready  to  serve  with  cream  and  sugar. 

Hominy. — Use  from  three  and  a  half  to  four  parts  of  liquid 
to  one  part  of  hominy,  and  cook  in  steamer  or  double  boiler 
from  four  to  four  and  a  half  hours,  unless  previously  prepared — 
then  it  takes  much  shorter  time.  It  should  be  cooked  slowly. 
You  can  use  milk  or  milk  and  water  in  equal  proportion  in  the 
cooking  of  same. 

Cornmeal  Mush. — Mix  together  two  cups  of  cornmeal,  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  two  cups  of  cold  milk.  Turn  this 
slowly,  stirring  well  meanwhile,  into  one  quart  of  boiling  water, 
which  should  not  cease  to  boil  during  the  introduction  of  the 
batter.  Cook  three  or  four  hours.  If  milk  is  not  obtainable, 
water  alone  may  be  used,  in  which  case  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  will  be  needed.  Cook  in  a  double  boiler. 

Fruits  can  be  added,  such  as  steamed  raisins,  finely  chopped 
figs,  or  berries  if  preferred. 

Fried  Mush. — Cut  the  cold  mush  into  slices,  brush  each 
slice  with  a  little  butter,  and  fry  until  it  is  a  nice  brown  on  both 
sides.  Serve  with  syrup. 


MEASURES  AND  WEIGHTS. 


(LIQUIDS.) 

Sixty  drops  make  one  small  teaspoonful. 

Two  teaspoonfuls  equal  one  dessertspoonful. 

Four  teaspoonfuls   or  two   dessertspoonfuls   equal  one   table- 
spoonful. 

Four  tablespoonfuls  equal  one  wineglassful. 

Two  wineglasses  equal  one  gill. 

Two  gills  equal  one  coffee-cup. 

Two  coffee-cups  equal  one  pint  liquid    or  one  pound   of  dry 
material. 

Four  gills  make  one  pint. 

Two  pints  make  one  quart. 

Four  quarts  make  one  gallon. 

Two  ordinary  tumblerfuls  make  one  pint  liquid. 

One  coffee-cup  equals  one-half  pint  liquid  or  one-half  pound  dry 
material,  viz.,  sugar,  salt,  meal,  fruits,  meats. 

One  heaping  tablespoonful  of  sugar  or  salt  weighs  one  ounce. 

One  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  weighs  one  ounce. 

Two  round  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  weigh  one  ounce. 

Four  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour  weigh  one  pound. 

Two  cupfuls  of  meal  weigh  one  pound. 

One  pint  or   two  coffeecupfuls   of  oatmeal,  cracked  wheat,  or 
coarse  grains  weigh  one  pound. 

Two  coffee-cups  of  meat  (or  a  pint  measure)  packed  solid  weigh 
one  pound. 

One  pint  of  liquid  weighs  one  pound. 

Five  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  equal  one  cupful. 

Seven  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  or  salt  equal  one  cupful. 

One  coffeecupful  of  butter  packed  solid  is  one-half  pound. 

N.  B. — I  find  that  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  is  equal  to  one 

heaping  tablespoonful  of  sugar. 


BREAD. 


The  first  two  bread  recipes  have  stood  the  test  of  several 
years'  trial  in  the  schools  of  cookery,  and  received  the  highest 
prize.  Two  methods  are  given,  with  personal  preference  for 
the  compressed-yeast  bread,  because  it  is  the  quickest,  and  best 
preserves  the  nutriment  of  the  flour. 

To  make  yeast,  boil  two  ounces  of  hops  in  two  quarts  of 
water  for  half  an  hour ;  strain  the  liquid,  and  cool  it  until 
it  is  only  lukewarm ;  then  add  half  a  pound  of  brown  sugar, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one  pound  of  flour;  let  this  leaven 
ferment  four  days  in  a  warm  place,  stirring  it  whenever  it  foams 
over  the  top  of  the  jar  in  which  it  is  placed ;  on  the  third  day 
add  to  it  three  pounds  of  potatoes  boiled  and  mashed ;  on  the 
fourth  day  strain  and  bottle  it,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place. 

Home-made  Bread. — Put  seven  pounds  of  flour  in  a  deep 
wooden  bowl ;  in  the  centre  of  it  put  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  gill  of  yeast,  and  sufficient  lukewarm 
water  to  make  a  soft  dough  (about  three  pints) ;  mix  these 
ingredients  with  the  hands  until  they  form  a  smooth,  shining 
dough  ;  if  necessary,  use  a  little  extra  flour,  only  enough  to 
facilitate  the  working  of  the  dough ;  flour  the  bowl  on  the 
bottom  and  sides,  so  that  the  bread  will  not  stick  to  it,  cover  it 
with  a  thick  towel  folded  several  times,  set  it  in  a  warm  place 
protected  from  draughts,  and  let  it  rise  over  night.  In  the 
morning  knead  the  bread  fifteen  minutes,  divide  it  into  four 
loaves,  put  them  into  floured  baking-pans,  cover  them  with  a 
folded  towel,  and  set  them  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  twice  their 
height ;  when  they  are  so  risen,  prick  them  at  the  sides  with 


380  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

a  fork,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  until  a  knitting 
or  trussing  needle  can  be  run  into  them  without  being  made 
sticky.  Be  sure  that  they  are  well  done,  but  do  not  let  them 
burn. 

Compressed  Teast  Bread. — When  it  is  possible  to  obtain 
fresh  compressed  yeast,  also  called  German  yeast,  an  excellent 
bread  can  be  made  in  about  two  hours  and  a  half ;  the  rapidity 
of  the  leavening  or  "  raising "  tKe  dough  is  advantageous,  be- 
cause less  of  the  nutritive  elements  of  the  flour  are  lost  than 
by  following  the  long  process.  For  two  loaves  of  bread,  use 
three  pounds  of  flour,  about  a  quart  of  water,  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  salt,  and  an  ounce  of  fresh  compressed  yeast ;  dissolve  the 
yeast  in  a  pint  of  lukewarm  water;  stir  into  it  sufficient  flour  to 
make  a  thick  batter;  cover  the  bowl  containing  the  batter 
or  sponge  with  a  folded  towel,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to 
rise ;  if  properly  covered  and  heated,  it  will  rise  to  a  light  foam 
in  half  an  hour ;  then  stir  into  it  the  salt  dissolved  in  a  little 
warm  water,  add  the  rest  of  the  flour,  and  sufficient  lukewarm 
water  to  make  a  dough  stiff  enough  to  knead ;  knead  it  five 
minutes,  divide  it  into  two  loaves,  put  them  in  floured  baking- 
pans,  cover  them  with  a  folded  towel,  and  set  them  in  a  warm 
place  to  rise  twice  their  height ;  then  bake  them  as  directed  in 
the  preceding  recipe. 

In  raising  the  sponge,  be  sure  that  the  heat  is  not  sufficient 
to  "  scald "  or  harden  it,  as  that  will  prevent  fermentation ; 
therefore  do  not  place  it  where  the  hand  cannot  be  held  with 
comfort ;  keep  it  covered  from  draughts.  If  when  it  is  light  it 
has  become  at  all  soured,  as  it  sometimes  will  in  summer,  stir 
into  it,  before  adding  the  balance  of  the  flour,  a  saltspoonful  of 
baking-soda  dissolved  in  a  very  little  water. 

The  dough  made  for  home-made  bread  can  be  baked  as 
raised  biscuit  by  kneading  in  with  it  a  little  sugar  and  melted 
butter. 

To  test  the  heat  of  the  oven,  follow  the  method  of  Jules 


Bread.  381 

Gouffe,  the  celebrated  chef  of  the  Paris  Jockey  Club:  the 
"  moderate  oven  "  temperature  is  that  degree  of  heat  which 
will  turn  ordinary  writing-paper  dark  yellow  or  buff,  that  is,  the 
color  of  kindling-wood ;  put  a  sheet  of  paper  in  the  oven,  and 
close  the  door;  if  the  paper  blazes,  the  oven  is  too  hot ;  arrange 
the  dampers  to  lower  the  heat  for  ten  minutes,  then  again  test 
it  with  more  paper ;  it  may  be  necessary  to  try  the  temperature 
several  times,  but  the  time  thus  used  is  well  spent. 

For  Baking. — Make  a  sponge  the  night  before  (unless  the 
weather  is  too  warm).  Use  a  pint  of  boiling  water  to  scald 
part  of  the  flour ;  then  add  warm  milk,  or  milk  and  water, 
enough  for  the  baking.  One  teacupful  of  yeast  is  enough  for 
three  or  four  small-sized  loaves.  Stir  in  flour  enough  to  make 
a  stiff  batter,  and  beat  well.  If  the  weather  is  warm,  the  milk 
can  be  scalded  in  the  morning,  when  the  sponge  is  made  into 
dough.  Knead  well,  but  not  too  stiff.  When  it  is  kneaded 
long  enough,  it  will  not  stick  to  the  hands  or  the  tray.  When 
it  has  risen  up  light,  knead  it  down  without  adding  more  flour. 
It  will  shortly  come  up  again.  Make  it  into  moderate-sized 
loaves.  When  they  are  light,  wet  the  loaves  with  cold  water, 
and  bake.  Bake  them  through.  Good  bread  that  is  so  slack- 
baked  that  you  can  make  dough  of  it  by  pressing  the  fingers 
upon  it,  is  not  fit  to  be  eaten  by  any  one  who  has  not  a  diges- 
tive apparatus  like  an  ostrich.  When  bread  is  baked  enough,  it 
will  spring  back,  like  a  sponge,  when  pressed  down  by  the 
fingers. 

German  Loaf. — In  making  yeast  bread,  take  a  loaf,  after  it 
has  been  kneaded  and  become  light,  lay  it  on  kneading-board, 
and  roll  it  about  one  inch  thick ;  then  lay  it  in  a  flat,  shallow 
baking-pan,  and  with  your  finger  make  about  a  dozen  inden- 
tures, filling  each  one  with  butter ;  then  sprinkle  the  top  with 
sugar,  and  then  with  cinnamon  ;  let  the  loaf  get  very  light,  and 
bake  in  hot  oven. 

New  England  Salt-raising  Bread. — Scald  an  earthen  quart 


382  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

milk  pitcher,  then  fill  it  one-third  full  of  water  about  as  warm  as 
the  fingers  can  bear  it;  to  this  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  pinch 
of  brown  sugar,  and  coarse  flour  enough  to  make  a  batter  about 
the  same  as  for  griddle-cakes.  Set  the  pitcher,  with  the  spoon 
in  it,  in  a  closed  vessel  half-filled  with  water,  moderately  hot, 
but  not  scalding.  Keep  the  temperature  as  nearly  even  as 
possible,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  once  or  twice  during 
the  process  of  fermentation.  The  yeast  ought  to  reach  to  the 
top  of  the  bowl  in  about  five  hours.  Sift  your  flour  into  a  pan, 
make  an  opening  in  the  center,  and  pour  in  your  yeast.  Have 
ready  a  pitcher  of  warm  milk,  salted,  or  milk  and  water  (not  too 
hot,  or  you  will  scald  the  yeast  germs),  and  stir  rapidly  into 
a  pulpy  mass  with  a  spoon.  Cover  this  sponge  closely,  and  keep 
warm  for  an  hour,  then  knead  into  loaves,  adding  flour  to  make 
the  proper  consistency.  Place  in  warm,  well-greased  pans,  cover 
closely,  and  leave  till  it  is  light.  Bake  in  a  steady  oven,  and 
when  done  let  all  the  hot  steam  escape.  Wrap  closely  in  damp 
towels,  and  keep  in  closed  earthen  jars  until  it  is  wanted. 

Rye  Bread. — Set  the  sponge  at  night  as  usual  for  wheat 
bread.  In  the  morning,  when  ready  to  have  the  flour  added, 
stir  in  a  teacupful  of  molasses,  and  add  as  much  rye  flour  as  was 
used  of  wheat  flour  the  night  before  in  setting  the  sponge.  The 
quantity  of  molasses  here  given  is  that  usual  for  four  loaves ; 
but  more  or  less  can  be  used  according  to  the  taste. 

Rye  Bread. — Prepare  a  sponge  overnight  with  white  flour 
as  for  water  bread.  In  the  morning,  when  light,  add  another 
tablespoonful  of  sugar,  and  rye  flour  to  knead.  Proceed  as 
directed  for  the  water  bread,  taking  care  to  use  only  enough 
rye  flour  to  make  the  dough  just  stiff  enough  to  mold.  Use 
white  flour  for  dusting  the  kneading-board,  as  the  rye  flour  is 
sticky. 

Graham  Bread. — Measure  one  teacupful  of  flour  into  the 
pan  the  bread  is  to  rise  in,  and  on  that  pour  one  quart  of  boiling 
water,  and  let  it  cool  till  you  can  bear  your  finger  in  it ;  then  add 


Bread.  383 

a  dessertspoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  brown  sugar,  a  piece 
of  lard  as  large  as  a  walnut,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  good  yeast, 
and  as  much  more  flour  as  you  can  stir  in.  Put  it  in  a  warm 
place  to  rise  all  night.  In  the  morning,  grease  well  a  cast-iron 
baking-pan  (sheet-iron  burns  too  readily),  pour  the  risen  dough 
into  it,  and  smooth  it  nicely  on  the  top.  After  rising  half  an 
hour,  bake  just  one  hour. 

Indian  Corn-meal  Bake. — Mix  one  pint  of  milk,  one-half 
teacupful  of  powdered  white  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
one-half  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Put  this  in  a  covered  pan,  set  on 
the  stove  until  it  is  scalding  hot,  take  it  from  the  fire  and  stir 
into  it  as  much  sifted  yellow  Indian  meal  to  make  it  as  thick  as 
boiled  mush.  Stir  hard  for  twenty  minutes,  and  set  away  to  cool. 
In  the  mean  time  beat  two  eggs  very  light,  and  when  the  mixture 
is  about  milk-warm  stir  the  eggs  in  gradually ;  also  add  one-half 
cup  of  yeast ;  then  beat  hard  for  fifteen  minutes.  Much  depends 
upon  this  being  well  beaten.  Have  a  deep  pan  well  buttered  ; 
pour  the  mixture  in,  cover,  and  set  to  rise  in  a  warm  place.  It 
will  take  two  or  three  hours  to  rise.  When  light,  bake  in  mod- 
erate oven.  This  should  always  be  served  very  hot. 

New  England  Corn  Bread. — Sift  together  one  cupful  of 
Indian  meal,  half  a  cupful  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
three  teaspoon fuls  of  baking-powder;  mix  with  these  ingredi- 
ents half  a  cupful  each  of  butter  and  flour  beaten  to  a  cream, 
four  eggs  beaten  for  two  minutes,  and  one  pint  of  milk.  Put 
the  bread  into  an  iron  pan  well  buttered,  and  bake  it  for  about 
twenty  minutes,  or  until  it  is  nicely  browned ;  then  serve  it  hot 
at  once. 

West  Point  Corn-bread. — Three-fourths  of  a  pint  of  sifted 
Indian  meal,  three  eggs  (whites  and  yolks  beaten  separately), 
one  teaspoonful  of  lard,  one  pint  of  milk,  a  little  salt ;  add 
whites  of  eggs  the  last  thing.  The  pans  should  be  greased.  Bake 
quickly. 

Indian  Bread. — Four  cupfuls  of  meal  (sifted),  two  cupfuls 


384  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

of  wheat  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  saleratus,  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  salt,  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  molasses;  stir  together, 
mixed  with  sour  milk  until  it  is  a  little  stiffer  than  griddle-cake 
batter.  Pour  into  a  greased  pail,  close  tight,  and  set  in  a  kettle 
of  cold  water; -cover  the  kettle,  and  boil  it  three  hours.  The 
above  quantity  should  be  put  into  a  four-quart  pail. 

Egg  Corn  Bread. — Chop  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  with 
one  quart  of  Indian  meal  ;  add  a  heaping  teaspoonfut  of  salt 
and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  stir  in  gradually  a  quart  of  cold 
milk;  beat  the  mixture  until  it  forms  a  smooth  batter;  butter 
the  pan  in  which  the  bread  is  to  be  baked;  beat  the  whites  of 
four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  into  the  batter  lightly  and 
quickly,  put  it  into  the  buttered  pan,  and  bake  the  bread  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour,  or  until  a  broom-straw  run 
into  the  thickest  part  of  the  loaf  can  be  withdrawn  clean. 
The  bread  can  be  used  either  hot  or  cold.  The  same  batter 
can  be  baked  in  smaller  buttered  pans,  or  in  buttered  earthen 
cups. 

Corn  Cake  without  Eggs. — One  pint  of  sweet  milk,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  one  handful  of  flour,  and  meal 
sufficient  to  make  a  batter,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

New  Orleans  Corn  Cake. — One  pint  of  sweet  milk,  one- 
half  pint  of  sour  milk,  one-half  pint  of  sour  cream,  nearly  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  soda  in  milk,  one  quart  of  meal,  two  eggs,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt ;  stir  in  meal  by  the  handful.  Three  eggs. 
Bake  in  two  pans. 

New  England  Brown  Bread. — Sift  together  two  cupfuls 
each  of  rye  and  Indian  meal ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two- 
thirds  of  a  cupful  each  of  molasses  and  boiled  squash,  and  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  very  little  cold  water;  last  of 
all,  mix  in  enough  sour  milk  to  make  a  batter  thin  enough  to 


Bread.  385 

pour.  Put  the  batter  into  a  buttered  tin  pan  or  mold,  and 
steam  it  for  three  hours.  Then  bake  it  for  two  hours  longer. 

Date  Bread. — Take  a  pint  of  light  white  bread  sponge  pre- 
pared with  milk ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  Graham 
flour  to  make  a  very  stiff  batter.  Add  last  a  cupful  of  stoned 
dates.  Turn  into  a  bread-pan.  Let  it  rise,  and  bake. 

Brown  Bread. — One  quart  of  sour  milk,  four  cupfuls  of 
meal,  one  cupful  of  flour,  one  tablespoonful  of  soda,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-half  cupful  of  molasses.  Put  the  soda  and 
molasses  into  the  milk,  and  stir  until  it  foams  up.  Add  the  meal 
and  flour.  Steam  three  hours  ;  then  bake  long  enough  to  brown 
nicely. 

Vienna  Bread. — Into  a  pint  of  milk  sterilized  by  scalding 
turn  a  cup  and  a  half  of  boiling  water.  When  lukewarm,  add 
one-half  cup  of  warm  water,  in  which  has  been  dissolved  a  cake 
of  compressed  yeast  and  a  quart  of  white  flour.  Beat  the  bat- 
ter thus  made  very  thoroughly,  and  allow  it  to  rise  for  one  hour; 
then  add  white  flour  until  the  dough  is  of  a  consistency  to 
knead.  Knead  well,  and  allow  it  to  rise  again  for  about  three 
hours,  or  until  very  light.  Shape  into  four  loaves,  handling 
lightly.  Let  it  rise  again  in  the  pans,  and  bake.  During  the 
baking,  wash  the  tops  of  the  loaves  with  a  sponge  dipped  in 
milk,  to  glaze  them. 

Potato  Bread  with  Whole-wheat  Flour. — Take  a  half  gill 
of  liquid  yeast  made  as  for  Boiled  Potato  Yeast,  and  add  milk, 
sterilized  and  cooled  to  lukewarm,  to  make  a  pint.  Add  one 
cup  of  well-mashed,  mealy  potato  and  one  cup  of  white  flour, 
or  enough  to  make  a  rather  thick  batter.  Beat  thoroughly, 
cover,  and  set  to  rise.  When  well  risen,  add  sufficient  whole- 
wheat flour  to  knead.  The  quantity  will  vary  somewhat  with 
the  brand  of  flour  used,  but  about  four  and  one-fourth  cupfuls 
will  in  general  be  needed.  Knead  well,  let  it  rise  in  mass  and 
again  in  the  loaf,  and  bake. 

Hominy  Bread. — Boil  till   soft   one  pint   of  fine  hominy. 


386  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

When  cool,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  corn-meal,  two  eggs  well  beaten,  and  one  pint  of  milk.  Melt 
a  tablespoonful  of  lard  in  the  spider.  Pour  in  the  batter  while 
the  lard  is  hot.  One-half  hour  cooks  the  bread.  If  preferred, 
butter  a  baking-dish,  pour  in  the  batter,  and  bake  one-half 
hour. 

Oatmeal  Bread. — Mix  a  quart  of  well-cooked  oatmeal  mush 
with  a  pint  of  water,  beating  it  perfectly  smooth  ;  add  a  cupful 
of  liquid  yeast  and  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Cover,  and  let 
it  rise.  When  light,  add  sufficient  flour  to  mold.  Knead  as 
soft  as  possible,  for  twenty  or  thirty  minutes.  Shape  into  four 
or  more  loaves,  let  it  rise  again,  and  bake. 

Fruit  Loaf. — Take  one  pint  of  sterilized  milk,  dissolve  in  it 
one-quarter  of  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  stir  one  pint  of 
wheat  flour  in  it,  and  set  to  rise ;  when  light,  add  one  and  one- 
half  cupfuls  of  Graham  flour  and  one  and  three-quarter  cupfuls 
of  wheat  flour,  mix  well,  and  knead  for  thirty  minutes ;  if  nec- 
essary add  more  wheat  flour.  When  you  are  through  knead- 
ing add  a  cup  of  raisins,  first  having  washed,  dried,  and  sprinkled 
flour  over  them ;  let  the  whole  rise  in  a  mass,  then  shape  into 
loaves,  let  rise  again  and  bake. 

French  Bread. — One-quarter  cup  of  yeast,  one  egg,  two 
table  spoons  of  melted  butter,  one-half  pint  sweet  milk,  one-half 
teaspoon  of  salt,  one  quart  flour ;  stir  all  this  together  very 
thoroughly,  and  set  to  rise  ;  when  is  light  make  into  a  loaf, 
let  rise  again  and  bake.  Just  before  placing  in  oven  cut  gashes 
across  the  top. 

French  Rolls  may  be  made  by  taking  small  pieces  of 
dough  and  making  into  oval  rolls  very  tapering  at  each  end, 
laying  them  on  buttered  bread  tins  far  enough  apart  so  they  will 
not  touch  each  other ;  let  them  get  light,  and  bake  in  quick 
oven. 

Crescents  are  made  by  taking  the  dough  when  it  is  light, 
placing  on  kneading  board,  and  rolling  thin,  one-eighth  of  an 


Biscuit,  Rolls,  Muffins,  and  Pancakes.  387 

inch  is  about  right.  Cut  in  five-inch  squares  ;  cut  the  squares  in 
two,  making  two  three-cornered  pieces.  Brush  them  over  with 
melted  butter,  and  roll  up,  beginning  with  the  wide  end.  Place 
them  in  buttered  tin  in  semicircular  shape,  let  them  rise  and 
bake. 

Prof.  H.  I.  Blits'  Imperial  Baking  Powder. — Mix  one 
pound  of  (chemically  pure)  cream  of  tartar  and  two  ounces  of 
best  corn  starch ;  sieve  through  a  fine  sieve  twice.  Then  add 
to  this  one-half  pound  of  best  English  baking  soda  and  sieve 
all  seven  times.  Put  in  an  air-tight  can  and  keep  in  a  dry  place. 
Be  sure  and  use  only  Powers  &  Weightman's  cream  of  tartar 
and  the  English  baking  soda.  The  American  and  other  brands 
are  not  as  good  and  will  only  spoil  your  powder  and  make  your 
biscuits  and  cakes  heavy  and  give  them  a  yellow  color.  Use 
the  same  proportion  of  this  powder  for  baking  as  when 
using  the  Royal  or  Price's.  Never  dip  in  powder  with  wet 
spoon.  Be  sure  and  not  use  too  much  shortening  in  baking 
biscuits ;  one  large  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  or  lard  is 
sufficient  to  one  quart  of  flour ;  mix  dough  as  little  as  possible, 
leaving  it  just  soft  enough  so  it  can  be  conveniently  handled. 
You  can  use  four  ounces  of  corn  starch  if  you  wish  to  cheapen 
it. 


BISCUIT,  BOLLS,  MUFFINS,  AND  PANCAKES. 

Graham  Biscuit. — Mix  together  as  for  bread  one  quart  of 
Graham  meal,  two  spoonfuls  of  molasses,  one  teaspoonful  of 
lard,  two  spoonfuls  of  wheat  flour,  half  a  cup  of  yeast,  and  salt. 
Let  it  stand  all  night  to  rise,  and  in  the  morning  put  it  in  muffin 
rings  ;  let  them  stand  half  an  hour,  and  then  bake. 

Raised  Biscuit. — Sift  in  mixing  pan  two  quarts  of  flour  ; 
make  a  hole  in  it  and  pour  into  it  one  pint  of  warm  water,  one 
teaspoon  of  salt,  one-half  cupful  of  melted  butter ;  stir  in  a  little 


388  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

flour,  then  add  half  a  cupful  of  yeast,  then  stir  in  flour,  and  let  it 
rise  over  night.  In  the  morning  add  an  even  teaspoonful  of 
soda,  and  flour  enough  so  it  can  be  kneaded  ;  then  mold  twenty 
minutes,  and  set  to  rise  again  ;  when  light,  roll  out  and  cut  with 
a  biscuit  cutter  ;  set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise ;  when  light,  bake 
a  light  brown.  Rub  a  little  melted  butter  on  the  sides  of  the 
biscuit  when  you  put  them  in  the  tin,  so  they  will  not  stick 
together. 

Buns. — One  coffeecupful  of  sugar,  two-thirds  of  a  coffeecup- 
ful  of  butter,  the  same  of  yeast,  two  eggs,  one  coffeecupful  of 
milk.  Rub  in  the  butter  just  before  putting  in  the  baking  tins, 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  and  flour  enough  to  roll. 

Milk  Biscuits. — Boil  and  mash  two  white  potatoes ;  add 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  brown  sugar ;  pour  boiling  water  over 
these,  enough  to  soften  them.  When  tepid,  add  one  small  tea- 
cupful  of  yeast ;  when  light,  warm  three  ounces  of  butter  in  one 
pint  of  milk,  a  little  salt,  a  third  of  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and 
flour  enough  to  make  stiff  sponge  ;  when  risen,  work  it  on  the 
board  ;  put  it  back  in  the  tray  to  rise  again  ;  when  risen,  roll 
into  cakes,  and  let  them  stand  half  an  hour.  Bake  in  a  quick 
oven.  These  biscuits  are  fine. 

Maryland  Buns. — One-half  cup  of  milk,  one-half  cup  of 
yeast  or  half  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  enough  flour  to  make  a 
thick  batter;  let  this  set  over  night;  in  the  morning  add  one- 
half  cupful  of  sugar,  four  tablespoons  of  melted  butter,  one-half 
a  salt-spoon  of  salt,  one-quarter  teaspoon  of  soda,  and  a  little 
grated  nutmeg,  and  flour  enough  so  you  can  roll  them  out ; 
knead,  and  set  to  rise  for  three  or  four  hours ;  then  lay  the 
dough  on  mixing  board,  and  roll  one-half  an  inch  thick  ;  cut  out 
with  biscuit  cutter,  and  lay  in  buttered  baking  tins ;  let  them 
stand  until  light ;  bake  a  light  brown,  and  brush  over  with  the 
white  of  an  egg  beaten  still,  and  sprinkle  with  sugar. 

New  England  Busks. — One-half  pound  sugar,  two  cups 
of  raised  dough,  half  a  cup  of  butter,  two  well-beaten  eggs,  flour 


Biscuit,  Rolls,  Muffins,  and  Pancakes.  389 

enough  to  make  a  stiff  dough ;  set  to  rise,  and  when  light, 
mold  into  high  biscuit,  and  let  rise  again  ;  rub  damp  sugar  and 
cinnamon  over  the  top  and  place  in  the  oven.  Bake  about 
twenty  minutes. 

Breakfast  Rolls. — Sift  a  pint  and  a  half  of  Graham  flour 
into  a  bowl,  and  into  it  stir  a  cupful  of  very  cold  thin  cream  or 
unskimmed  milk.  Pour  the  liquid  into  the  flour  slowly,  a  few 
spoonfuls  at  a  time,  mixing  each  spoonful  to  a  dough  with  the 
flour  as  fast  as  poured  in.  When  all  the  liquid  has  been  added, 
gather  the  fragments  of  dough  together,  knead  thoroughly  for 
ten  minutes  or  longer,  until  perfectly  smooth  and  elastic.  The 
quantity  of  flour  will  vary  somewhat  with  the  quality,  but  in 
general  the  quantity  given  will  be  quite  sufficient  for  mixing 
the  dough  and  dusting  the  board.  When  well  kneaded,  divide 
into  two  portions;  roll  each  over  and  over  with  the  hands,  until 
a  long  roll  about  one  inch  in  diameter  is  formed ;  cut  this  into 
two-inch  lengths,  prick  with  a  fork  and  place  on  perforated  tins, 
far  enough  apart  so  that  one  will  not  touch  another  when  bak- 
ing. Each  roll  should  be  as  smooth  and  perfect  as  possible,  and 
with  no  dry  flour  adhering.  Bake  at  once,  or  let  stand  on  ice 
for  twenty  minutes.  The  rolls  should  not  be  allowed  to  stand 
after  forming,  unless  on  ice.  From  thirty  to  forty  minutes  will 
be  required  for  baking.  When  done,  spread  on  the  table  to 
cool,  but  do  not  pile  one  on  top  of  another. 

Graham  Rolls. — One  quart  of  Graham  flour,  one  small 
teacupful  of  yeast,  one-half  cupful  of  sugar,  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  melted  butter,  two  eggs,  water  sufficient  to  make  a  thick 
batter.  Let  it  rise  over  night,  and  bake  in  cups,  thirty  to  forty- 
five  minutes. 

Fruit  Roll. — Take  some  bread  dough,  prepared  as  for  Milk 
Bread,  which  has  been  sufficiently  kneaded  and  is  ready  to 
mold,  and  roll  to  about  one  inch  in  thickness.  Spread  over 
it  some  dates  which  have  been  washed,  dried,  and  stoned,  rai- 


390  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

sins,  currants,  or  chopped  figs.  Roll  it  up  tightly  into  a  loaf. 
Let  it  rise  until  very  light,  and  bake. 

Parker-House  Eolls. — One  quart  of  flour,  butter  of  half 
the  size  of  an  egg,  one-half  tablespoonful  of  white  sugar,  a  little 
salt ;  mix  this  at  night  with  two-thirds  of  a  pint  of  milk  and 
one-half  teacupful  of  yeast.  In  the  morning  knead  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Let  it  rise  until  2  P.M.  Then  roll  out,  cut  round, 
put  a  small  piece  of  butter  into  each  one,  fold  over,  and  pull 
them  ;  let  them  rise  till  time  to  bake.  Bake  for  half  an  hour  be- 
fore you  wish  to  use  them.  They  must  be  mixed  twenty-four 
hours  before  baking. 

English  Breakfast  Muffins. — One  quart  of  milk,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  small  teaspoonful  of  salt,  six  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  yeast.  Thicken  it  with  flour  to  the  consistency  of  buck- 
wheat batter.  In  the  morning  the  batter  must  not  be  stirred, 
but  poured  into  the  rings,  and  baked  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Mufliiis. — One  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of 
sugar,  one  egg,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  beat  all  together  well ; 
add  a  cup  of  milk,  three  cupfuls  of  flour  sifted,  three  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  baking-powder.  Drop  in  patty  pans  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Graham  Gems. — One  pint  of  sour  milk,  one-half  pint  of 
cream  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  one  egg,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda,  a  little  salt,  one-quarter  or  one-half  cupful  of 
sugar  as  preferred,  and  one  quart  of  Graham  flour.  Bake  in 
gem-pans.  They  must  be  quite  hot  and  well  buttered  before 
putting  in  the  gems. 

Fruit  Puffs. — Make  a  good  puff  paste ;  roll  very  thin,  and 
cut  in  strips  five  inches  long  and  three  inches  wide ;  place  on 
each  piece  a  tablespoonful  of  any  kind  of  fresh  or  canned  ber- 
ries ;  fold  the  long  sides  together.  First  wet  with  white  of  an 
egg,  and  press  together  well  so  the  fruit  cannot  get  out.  When 
all  are  ready,  fry  them  in  hot  lard  until  they  are  a  nice  brown. 
Skim  them  out,  and  while  hot  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 


Waffles.  39 1 

Whole-wheat  Puffs.— Put  the  yolk  of  an  egg  into  a  basin, 
and  heat  the  white  in  a  separate  dish  to  a  stiff  froth.  Add  to 
the  yolk  one-half  a  cupful  of  rather  thin  sweet  cream  and  one 
cupful  of  skim  milk.  Beat  the  egg,  cream,  and  milk  together 
until  perfectly  mingled  and  foamy  with  air-bubbles ;  then  add, 
gradually,  beating  well  at  the  same  time,  one  pint  of  wheat 
flour.  Continue  the  beating  vigorously  and  without  interrup- 
tion for  eight  or  ten  minutes ;  then  stir  in  lightly  the  white  of 
the  egg.  Do  not  beat  again  after  the  white  of  the  egg  is  added, 
but  turn  at  once  into  heated,  shallow  irons,  and  bake  for  an 
hour  in  a  moderately  quick  oven.  If  properly  made  and  care- 
fully baked,  these  puffs  will  be  of  a  fine,  even  texture  through- 
out, and  as  light  as  bread  raised  by  fermentation. 


WAFFLES. 

Raised  Waffles. — Take  a  quart  of  flour  and  stir  in  sweet 
milk,  a  little  at  a  time,  to  make  a  thick  batter.  Add  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  and  yeast,  and 
when  light  add  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Have  the  waffle  iron  hot, 
and  buttered  ;  fill  about  half  full  of  the  batter,  and  brown  on 
both  sides.  Serve  immediately. 

Corn  Waffles. — Put  in  an  earthen  bowl  a  cupful  and  a  half 
of  corn-meal,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dessertspoonful  each  of 
lard  and  butter,  and  pour  in  a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  beat  this 
mixture  smooth,  let  it  cool  until  lukewarm,  then  add  two  eggs 
well  beaten,  and  bake  the  waffles  at  once  in  a  hot  buttered  iron. 

Boston  Waffles. — Boil  in  milk  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of 
rice  until  well  cooked.  Remove  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  grad- 
ually one  pint  of  sifted  flour,  three  beaten  eggs,  a  spoonful  of 
yeast,  one-half  cupful  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  and  half  a  teacupful 
of  warm  water.  Set  the  butter  in  a  warm  place,  and  when  light 
bake  in  the  usual  way. 


392  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Plain  Fritters. — The  whites  of  five  eggs,  one  cup  of  sweet 
milk,  two  cups  of  sifted  flour,  one-quarter  of  a  nutmeg  and  a 
pinch  of  salt.  Stir  the  whites  of  the  eggs  into  the  milk  in  turn 
with  the  flour.  The  batter  should  be  quite  thick.  You  may 
have  to  add  a  little  more  flour.  Fry  in  hot  lard.  Drop  the 
batter  in  v/ith  a  tablespoon,  and  fry  a  delicate  brown. 

Peach  Fritters.— Beat  two  eggs ;  add  half  a  cupful  of  milk, 
a  little  salt,  and  flour  enough  to  make  a  thick  batter.  Peel  the 
peaches,  cut  them  in  two,  take  the  stones  out,  and  sprinkle  pow- 
dered sugar  over  them.  Dip  them  in  the  batter,  and  fry  in  hot 
lard. 

Apple  Fritters. — Beat  the  whites  and  yolks  of  two  eggs  sep- 
arately. Add  together  the  yolks,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 
and  a  cupful  of  sweet  milk.  Have  the  milk  warm  ;  then  stir  in 
two  cupfuls  of  flour,  a  heaping  teaspoonf ul  of  baking-powder,  a 
little  salt,  and  the  whites  of  the  eggs.  Beat  all  together.  Put 
in  thin  slices  of  good  sour  apple.  Dip  the  batter  over  them, 
and  drop  large  spoonfuls  into  hot  lard  and  fry  to  a  light  brown. 
This  batter  can  be  used  for  bananas,  oranges,  pineapple,  and 
and  other  fruits. 

Strawberry  Shortcake. — Make  the  crust  same  as  baking- 
powder  biscuit,  only  use  more  shortening.  Divide  the  dough 
in  four  parts,  roll  out  two  pieces  and  put  in  pie  tins.  Spread 
them  with  butter  ;  now  roll  the  other  two  out  and  place  them  on 
top  of  the  two  in  the  tins.  Place  in  oven,  and  when  done  sepa- 
rate them  by  cutting  through  where  they  were  buttered. 
Spread  each  piece  with  butter,  and  put  plenty  of  berries  and 
sugar  on.  The  top  crust  can  be  sprinkled  with  powdered  sugar. 
Blackberries,  raspberries,  huckleberries  or  any  soft  fruit  is  very 
nice  made  into  a  shortcake. 

Orange  Filling  for  Shortcake. — Peel  and  chop  fine  three 
oranges  and  one-half  a  lemon.  Remove  all  seeds.  Add  one  and 
a  half  cupfuls  of  sugar.  Spread  between  the  layers  same  as  any 
shortcake. 


Waffles.  393 

Oyster  Pancakes. — Mix  together  equal  measures  of  oyster 
liquor  and  milk.  To  a  pint  of  this  mixture  put  a  pint  of  wheat 
flour,  a  few  oysters,  two  eggs,  and  a  little  salt.  Fry  till  nicely 
browned. 

Clam  Pancakes. — Make  a  thick  batter  of  flour  and  milk. 
Put  to  each  pint  of  milk  two  eggs  and  a  few  clams.  The  clams 
may  be  put  in  whole  after  being  first  stewed  ;  or  they  may  be 
only  taken  out  of  the  shell  and  chopped  fine. 

Pancakes. — Take  one  pint  of  milk,  three  eggs,  two  ounces  of 
butter,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  cream  of  tartar,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  three-fourths  of  a  pound 
of  flour.  (These  pancakes  can  be  made  with  half  a  pound  of 
rice  flour  and  quarter  of  a  pound  of  wheat  flour,  mixed,  instead 
of  all  wheat  flour;  or  with  quarter  of  a  pound  of  Indian  meal 
and  half  a  pound  of  wheat  flour ;  but  the  Indian  meal  should  be 
*boiled  in  one  pint  of  water  and  one  pint  of  milk  some  time 
before,  and  then  cooled  before  mixing  with  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients.)  Heat  the  stone  griddle  before  baking  the  cakes, 
and  only  bake  when  ready  to  send  to  table,  and  then  send  only 
a  few  at  a  time,  that  they  may  be  hot.  If  the  batter  is  poured 
part  at  a  time  into  a  sauce  jug,  and  then  poured  from  it  on  the 
stone  griddle,  the  cakes  will  have  a  better  shape.  Make  them 
of  the  size  of  the  top  of  a  tumbler.  The  griddle  may  be  greased 
with  a  piece  of  pork. 

Graham  Griddle  Cakes. — Three  coffeecupfuls  of  Graham 
flour,  one  quart  of  tepid  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
tablespoonful  of  sugar,  one-half  teacupful  of  yeast.  Set  it  to 
rise  overnight.  In  the  morning  take  out  a  cupful  of  this 
to  raise  with,  for  the  next  day.  Add  water  until  the  batter 
will  run  from  the  spoon,  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and 
bake  on  a  hot  griddle.  If  any  of  the  batter  is  left,  it  can  be 
made  into  gems  for  tea  by  adding  more  water,  salt,  flour,  a  piece 
of  butter  of  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  sugar  to  taste.  Just 


394  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

before  baking,  add  an  egg  and  a  little  more  soda.     The  batter 
must  be  stiffer  than  for  griddle-cakes. 

Boston  Griddle  Cakes. — One  tablespoon  melted  butter,  one 
tablespoon  sugar,  one-half  cupful  of  milk,  three  eggs,  one  cup 
flour;  stir  all  together  until  smooth.  Butter  the  griddle  and  put 
a  large  spoonful  of  the  batter  on.  Let  it  fry  a  nice  brown, 
spread  jelly  over  it,  roll  it  up  like  rolled  jelly-cake,  sprinkle  with 
powdered  sugar,  and  serve  very  hot. 


FROM   THE    FRENCH. 

French  Pancakes. — Sift  one  coffeecup  of  wheat  flour  into 
a  bowl.  Break  in  three  whole  eggs.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar,  and  mix  well,  adding  one  cup  of  cold  milk, 
pouring  it  in  very  gradually,  and  mixing  for  five  minutes. 
Butter  lightly  a  griddle  or  frying-pan  ;  place  it  on  the  stove, 
and  when  it  is  hot,  drop  on  to  it  some  of  this  batter,  and  bake 
two  minutes;  turn  over,  and  bake  the  other  side  as  long.  Turn 
the  pancake  on  a  hot  dessert-dish,  and  sprinkle  over  plenty  of 
powdered  sugar.  Proceed  the  same  with  the  remaining  batter 
until  finished. 

German  Pancakes. — Make  the  same  batter  as  for  French 
pancakes ;  butter  an  iron  pan,  large  enough  to  hold  this  batter. 
Place  this  on  a  hot  stove,  and  pour  all  the  batter  into  it, 
letting  it  cook  for  three  minutes.  Remove  to  a  hot  oven  for 
six  or  seven  minutes.  Take  it  out,  slide  the  cake  carefully  on 
a  hot  dessert-dish,  and  send  it  to  the  table  with  pieces  of  lemon. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. — To  one  teaspoon  of  compressed  yeast 
add  one-half  cup  of  lukewarm  water,  and  let  it  stand  for  ten 
minutes.  Mix  this  in  a  vessel  with  a  cup  of  buckwheat  flour, 
pouring  in  two  cups  of  cold  water,  and  season  with  a  small 
pinch  of  salt.  Mix  thoroughly,  cover  the  basin  with  a  cloth,  and 


Gingerbread,  Doughnuts,  and  Small  Cakes.  395 

let  rest  overnight.  Grease  griddle  lightly  with  a  piece  of  fat 
pork-rind,  and  place  it  on  a  hot  stove.  Pour  half  of  the  batter 
into  the  six  sections  of  the  griddle,  distributing  it  evenly.  Bake 
one  to  two  minutes  on  each  side.  Finish  the  rest  the  same  way, 
put  them  on  a  hot  dessert-dish,  and  serve. 

Wheat  Cakes. — Put  into  a  vessel  one-half  cupful  of  sifted 
wheat  flour,  one  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  a  piece  of 
compressed  yeast.  Break  in  four  whole  eggs,  and  mix  well  for 
three  minutes.  Add  cupful  of  cold  milk,  and  beat  well  with 
the  pastry-whip  for  four  minutes.  Strain  through  a  sieve  into 
another  vessel.  Place  on  the  stove  a  small  griddle,  greasing  the 
surface  lightly.  Drop  some  of  the  batter  onto  the  griddle ; 
bake  a  few  seconds ;  turn  it  with  a  cake-turner,  and  bake  a  few 
seconds  on  the  other  side.  See  that  the  cake  is  a  light-brown 
color  on  both  sides.  Put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  keeping  it  warm 
on  a  corner  of  the  range,  and  proceed  until  all  are  finished. 


GINGERBREAD,  DOUGHNUTS,  AND  SMALL  CAKES. 

Hard  Gingerbread. — Four  eggs,  three  cups  of  sugar,  one 
and  one-half  cupfuls  of  butter,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  ginger, 
one-half  cupful  of  milk,  flour  enough  to  roll  out.  Spread  very 
thin  on  tin  sheets ;  then  roll  it  first  with  a  smooth  rolling-pin, 
and  then  with  a  fluted  one.  Bake,  and  cut  in  squares  while 
warm. 

Soft  Gingerbread. — One  and  one-half  teacupfuls  of  molas- 
ses, one-half  a  cupful  of  cream,  one-half  a  cupful  of  butter,  one 
egg,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  teaspoonful  of  ginger  and 
cinnamon,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sour  milk. 

Ginger  Snaps. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  butter, 
one-half  cupful  of  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  saleratus,  one  egg, 
a  little  ginger. 


396  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Ginger  Cookies. — Two  cupfuls  of  molasses,  one  and  one- 
half  teaspoonfuls  of  ginger,  one-half  a  cupful  of  water,  one 
teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  one-half  a  cupful  of  butter  or  lard, 
one-half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Ginger  Drop  Cake. — One  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
molasses,  one-half  a  cupful  of  butter,  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  one- 
half  a  cupful  of  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  soda,  one  teaspoonful 
of  pulverized  alum,  two  eggs,  ginger  and  spice  to  taste.  If  not 
stiff  enough  to  drop,  add  more  flour. 

Ginger  Nuts. — Three  pounds  of  flour,  one  pound  of  butter, 
one  pound  of  sugar,  one  pint  of  molasses,  two  ounces  of  ginger, 
a  little  allspice.  Roll  extremely  thin. 

Sugar  Snaps. — One  cupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
one-third  of  a  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  three  eggs,  one  teaspoonful 
of  cream  of  tartar,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  flour  to  roll  out,  and 
cut  into  cakes. 

Sponge  Drops. — Beat  to  a  froth  three  eggs  and  one  teacup 
of  sugar;  stir  into  this  one  heaping  coffee-cup  of  flour,  in  which 
one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
saleratus  are  thoroughly  mixed.  Flavor  with  lemon.  Butter 
tin  sheets  with  washed  butter,  and  drop  in  teaspoonfuls  about 
three  inches  apart.  Bake  instantly  in  a  very  quick  oven.  Watch 
closely,  as  they  will  burn  easily.  Serve  with  ice-cream. 

Drop  Cookies.— One  cupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
one  cupful  of  milk,  one  egg,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar, 
one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  flour  enough  to  drop.  Flavor  to  taste. 

Cocoanut  Cookies. — One  pound  of  sugar,  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  butter,  three  eggs,  one  paper  of  cocoanut,  and  flour 
enough  to  roll  out. 

Christmas  Cakes. — One  pound  of  golden  syrup,  one  pound 
of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  soda  dissolved  in  one-half  cupful  of 
the  syrup.  Boil  the  rest  of  the  syrup ;  and,  while  warm,  add 
one- quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  one  teacupful  of  citron 
(chopped  very  fine),  one  teacupful  of  chopped  blanched  almonds, 


Gingerbread,  Doughnuts,  and  Small  Cakes.  397 

fifty  cents'  worth  of  cardamom  seeds,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinna- 
mon, one  of  chopped  lemon  peel,  the  grated  rind  and  the  juice 
of  one  lemon.  Roll  out,  cut  with  a  small  biscuit  cutter,  and 
put  a  whole  blanched  almond  on  the  top  of  every  cake  before 
you  put  them  in  the  oven.  Excellent — a  German  receipt. 

Fruit  Cookies. — Three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  one 
cupful  of  butter,  one-half  cup  of  sweet  milk,  one  egg,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  English  currants  or  chopped  raisins. 
Mix  soft,  and  roll  out,  using  just  enough  flour  to  stiffen  suffi- 
ciently. Cut  out  with  a  large  cutter,  wet  the  tops  with  milk, 
and  sprinkle  sugar  over  them.  Bake  on  buttered  tins  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Jumbles. — One  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  butter  (scant), 
two  eggs,  two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour.  Mix,  roll,  and  then 
cut  in  strips,  form  the  strips  into  rings,  and  dip  the  upper  side 
into  finely  cracked  sugar,  letting  as  much  adhere  to  the  surface 
as  will.  One  tablespoonful  of  bitter  almonds  finely  sliced 
improves  them.  Season  with  lemon,  vanilla,  or  extract  of 
almond. 

Small  Cakes. — Work  one  egg  and  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar 
to  as  much  flour  as  will  make  a  stiff  paste;  roll  it  as  thin  as  a 
dollar  piece,  and  cut  it  into  small  round  or  square  cakes ;  drop 
two  or  three  at  a  time  into  the  boiling  lard.  When  they  rise 
to  the  surface  and  turn  over,  they  are  done.  Take  them  out 
with  a  skimmer,  and  lay  them  on  an  inverted  sieve  to  drain. 
When  served  for  dessert  or  supper,  put  a  spoonful  of  jelly  on 
each. 

Cookies. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  scant  cupful  of  butter, 
one  egg,  a  little  nutmeg,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  saleratus  dis- 
solved in  a  large  tablespoonful  of  warm  water.  Warm  the  but- 
ter, so  as  to  stir  all  together.  Then  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  you 
can,  and  work  it  on  the  board.  Roll  very  thin,  and  cut  them 
out.  grease  the  pan  with  lard  before  the  first  are  baked,  and 


398  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

the  pan  will  not  need  greasing  again  for  the  rest.  Bake  to  a 
light  brown. 

German  Fried  Cakes. — Two  cups  of  milk,  four  eggs,  one 
small  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  flavoring,  salt  to  taste. 
First  boil  the  milk,  and  pour  it,  while  hot,  over  a  pint  of  flour ; 
beat  it  very  smooth,  and  when  it  is  cool,  have  ready  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs  well  beaten  ;  add  them  to  the  milk  and  flour,  beaten 
well  into  it ;  then  add  the  well-beaten  whites ;  then,  lastly,  add 
the  salt  and  as  much  more  flour  as  will  make  the  whole  into  a 
soft  dough.  Flour  your  board,  turn  your  dough  upon  it,  roll  it 
in  pieces  as  thick  as  your  finger,  and  turn  them  in  the  form  of  a 
ring.  Cook  in  plenty  of  boiling  lard.  A  nice  breakfast  cake 
with  coffee. 

Doughnuts. — One  coffeecupful  of  sugar,  two-thirds  of  a 
cupful  (scant)  of  butter,  one  egg,  one  coffeecupful  of  milk,  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar,  a  little 
nutmeg,  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough. 

Wafers. — Mix  four  rounding  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in 
half  a  teacup  of  milk ;  stir  together  four  ounces  of  white  sugar, 
eight  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  and  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  adding 
gradually  the  butter  and  milk,  a  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower 
water,  and  a  pinch  of  salt ;  mix  it  well.  Heat  the  wafer  irons, 
butter  their  inner  surfaces,  put  in  a  tablespoonful  of  the  batter, 
and  close  the  irons  immediately.  Put  the  irons  over  the  fire, 
and  turn  them  occasionally,  until  the  wafer  is  cooked.  When 
the  wafers  are  all  cooked,  roll  them  on  a  small  round  stick, 
stand  them  upon  a  sieve,  and  dry  them. 

Crullers. — One  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
two  eggs,  five  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  lard,  a  little  salt,  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  one-half  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar  (or  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder),  flour  sufficient  to 
make  firm  enough  to  roll  out  and  cut  in  shape.  If  any  spice  is 
used,  let  it  be  nutmeg. 

Puff-ball  Doughnuts. — Three  eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  a 


Gingerbread,  Doughnuts,  and  Small  Cakes.  399 

pint  of  sweet  milk,  salt,  nutmeg,  and  flour  enough  to  permit  the 
spoon  to  stand  upright  in  the  mixture ;  add  two  heaping  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking  powder  to  the  flour ;  beat  all  until  very 
light.  Drop  by  the  dessertspoonful  into  boiling  lard.  These 
will  not  absorb  a  bit  of  fat,  and  are  very  nice. 

New  England  Cookies. — One  cup  of  butter,  one  pound  of 
sugar,  three  eggs  well  beaten,  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  and  two  of 
cream  of  tartar,  spoonful  of  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg  and 
one  of  cinnamon  ;  flour  enough  to  make  a  soft  dough  just  stiff 
enough  to  roll  out.  Try  a  pint  of  sifted  flour  to  begin  with, 
working  it  in  gradually.  Spread  a  little  sweet  milk  over  each, 
and  sprinkle  with  sugar.  Bake  in  hot  oven  a  light  brown. 

Cocoanut  Cookies. — One  cup  grated  cocoanut,  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound  sugar,  three-fourths  cup  butter,  one-half  cup 
milk,  two  eggs,  one  large  teaspoonful  baking  powder,  one-half 
teaspoonful  extract  of  vanilla,  and  flour  enough  to  roll  out. 

Lemon  Cookies. — One  pound  sifted  flour,  one  teacupful  of 
butter,  two  cups  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  the  grated 
peel  from  the  outside,  three  eggs  whipped  very  light.  Beat 
thoroughly  each  ingredient,  adding  after  all  is  in  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  tablespoonful  of  milk.  Roll  out 
as  any  cookies,  and  bake  a  light  brown.  Use  no  other  wetting. 

New  England  Crullers. — Large  coffeecupful  of  sugar,  one 
cupful  of  sour  milk,  two  eggs,  two  scant  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  half  a  nutmeg  grated,  a  large  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  of  soda  ;  make  a  little 
stiffer  than  biscuit  dough,  roll  out  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
and  cut  with  a  fried-cake  cutter  with  a  hole  in  the  centre.  Fry 
in  hot  lard. 

Fried  Cakes  or  Doughnuts. — Have  boiling  lard  enough  to 
free  them  from  the  bottom  of  the  kettle,  so  that  they  swim  on 
the  top,  and  the  lard  should  never  be  so  hot  as  to  smoke  or  so 
cool  as  not  to  be  at  the  boiling  point ;  if  it  is,  they  soak  grease 
and  are  spoiled.  If  it  is  at  the  right  heat,  the  doughnuts  will 


4OO  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

in  about  ten  minutes  be  of  a  delicate  brown  outside  and  nicely 
cooked  inside.  Five  or  six  minutes  will  cook  a  cruller.  Try 
the  fat  by  dropping  a  bit  of  the  dough  in  first ;  if  it  is  right,  the 
fat  will  boil  up  when  it  is  dropped  in.  They  should  be  turned 
over  almost  constantly,  which  causes  them  to  rise  and  brown 
evenly.  When  they  are  sufficiently  cooked,  raise  them  from 
the  hot  fat,  and  drain  them  until  every  drop  ceases  dripping. 

Mother's  Love-knots. — One  egg,  one  tablespoonful  sugar, 
one  tablespoonful  butter,  one  tablespoonful  milk,  pinch  of  salt, 
.pinch  of  nutmeg,  flour  to  knead  very  hard.  Roll  out,  then  cut 
in  long  narrow  strips,  and  tie  in  two  or  three  knots,  and  fry  in 
hot  lard.  Dust  with  pulverized  sugar  while  hot. 

Nun's  Sighs. — Warm  a  lump  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
a  lump  of  sugar,  a  little  lemon  peel,  and  a  pinch  of  salt  in  a  tea- 
cupful  of  water.  Set  it  in  a  saucepan  of  water  on  the  stove ; 
stir  in  flour  until  it  becomes  a  thick  paste,  and  continue  stirring 
until  cooked.  Leave  in  the  saucepan  until  cold  ;  then  stir  in 
one  egg  at  a  time,  until  thin  enough  to  drop  out  of  a  spoon. 
Take  a  dessert  spoon  and  drop  lumps  of  the  paste  about  the 
size  of  walnuts  into  hot  lard.  Take  out  when  risen  to  four 
times  their  original  size  and  of  a  golden  color.  Sprinkle  with 
sugar.  Good  hot  or  cold. 


CAKE. 

Directions  for  Making  Cake.— Put  eggs  in  cold  water  to 
make  them  beat  light.  Dissolve  soda  in  a  little  water,  and  strain 
into  the  milk.  Mix  cream  of  tartar  with  one  cup  of  flour.  Strain 
yolks  of  eggs.  Stir  butter  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  soft, 
then  add  the  sugar  until  a  fine  cream  is  formed  ;  next  add  the 
yolks,  then  a  little  flour,  and  very  gradually  the  milk,  stirring 
the  batter  all  the  time.  Add  the  flavoring  and  spices.  Beat  the 


Cake.  401 

whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  place  one-half  upon  the  mixture,  then 
the  remainder  of  the  flour — except  that  containing  the  cream  of 
tartar,  which  must  be  added  after  the  other  layer  of  whites. 
Beat  carefully  until  the  ingredients  are  thoroughly  incorporated, 
and  bake  immediately.  Avoid  jarring  the  cake  when  in  the 
oven,  also  a  draft  of  cold  air  while  baking.  If  the  oven  is  too 
hot,  cover  with  a  piece  of  brown  paper.  A  stone  jar  and  a  clean 
piece  of  linen  will  keep  cake  best  a  long  time. 

Black  Cake. — One  pound  of  butter,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one 
pound  of  flour,  twelve  eggs,  three  glasses  of  brandy,  eight 
ounces  of  citron,  four  pounds  of  fruit,  a  little  saleratus ;  spice  to 
taste. 

Fruit  Cake. — One  pound  of  flour,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one- 
half  pound  of  butter,  nine  eggs,  three  pounds  of  raisins,  three 
pounds  of  currants,  one  pound  of  citron,  one  cupful  of  molasses, 
one  cupful  of  brandy,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cloves,  four  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  cinnamon.  Brown  the  flour;  bake  four  hours.  Add 
more  fruit  if  you  like,  and  if  too  dry  add  a  little  wine. 

Coffee  Cake. — One  pound  of  flour,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one 
pound  of  raisins  cut  and  stoned,  one-half  pound  of  butter,  four 
eggs,  one  cupful  of  strong  coffee,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one 
teaspoonful  of  cloves. 

St.  Albans  Loaf  Cake. — Three  cupfuls  of  light  dough,  two 
cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  and  one-quarter  cups  of  butter,  three  eggs, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  one  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda,  coffeecupful  of  raisins  chopped  a  little.  Let 
it  rise  half  an  hour  after  putting  it  in  the  baking  tins. 

Whortleberry  Cake. — Eight  cupfuls  of  flour,  three  cupfuls 
of  sugar,  five  eggs,  one  quart  of  the  berries,  and  one  and  one- 
half  cups  of  milk,  one  cupful  of  butter,  one  and  one-half,  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  soda,  three  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Hickory  Nut  Cake. — The  whites  of  six  eggs,  two  cupfuls  of 
sugar,  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  sweet  milk, 


402  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

three  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  one  pound  of  hickory-nut  kernels  chopped  very  fine. 

Almond  Cake. — One-half  cupful  of  butter  and  one  cupful 
of  sugar  beaten  to  a  cream,  whites  of  five  eggs  well  beaten,  two 
cupfuls  of  flour,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  teaspoonful  of 
cream  of  tartar,  one-half  cupful  of  milk,  one-half  pound  of  sweet 
almonds.  Flavor  with  bitter  almonds. 

Cocoanut  Drop  Cakes. — One  cupful  of  desiccated  cocoanut, 
one-half  cupful  sugar,  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth, 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Drop  on  paper,  and  bake  five  min- 
utes in  a  quick  oven. 

Cocoanut  Cake. — Three  cupfuls  of  sugar,  three-quarters  of 
a  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  milk,  five  cupfuls  of  flour,  three 
eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar,  one  teaspoonful  of 
soda,  one  cocoanut  grated. 

Lady  Cake. — One  and  one -quarter  pounds  of  powdered 
sugar,  sixteen  eggs  (whites  only),  one  pound  of  flour,  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  butter,  one-half  pound  of  blanched  almonds 
chopped  fine. 

Silver  Cake. — Two  coffeecupfuls  of  sugar,  one-half  cupful 
of  butter,  two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour,  three-quarters  of  a 
cupful  of  sweet  milk,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  cream  of  tartar,  whites  of  eight  eggs.  Flavor  with  lemon 
or  almond  extract. 

Gold  Cake. — One  cupful  of  sugar,  three-quarters  of  a  cupful 
of  butter,  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  one-quarter  of  a  cupful  of  sweet 
milk,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar,  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs. 

French  Loaf  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one-half  cupful 
of  butter,  one  cupful  of  milk,  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  three  eggs, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar  and  one  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
or  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

White  Cake. — Three  cupfuls  of  flpur,  one  and  one-half  cup- 


Cake.  403 

fuls  of  sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
cream  of  tartar,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  cupful  of  milk. 

Sea-foam  Cake. — Whites  of  ten  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth, 
one-half  tumblerful  of  white  sugar,  one  tumblerful  of  flour,  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar.  Stir  the  sugar  and  flour 
together,  and  mix  carefully  with  the  eggs,  and  then  flavor. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Wine  Cake. — Two  eggs,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
butter,  one  cupful  of  wine  or  cider,  four  cupfuls  of  flour,  one 
teaspoonful  of  saleratus,  one  cupful  of  fruit  (raisins  and  cur- 
rants), with  nutmeg. 

Lemon  Cake. — One  pound  of  flour,  one  pound  of  sugar, 
one-half  pound  of  butter,  eight- eggs,  the  rind  of  two  lemons 
grated,  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Baked  in  shallow  pans  and 
frosted. 

Sponge  Cake. — Ten  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  one  pound 
of  sugar,  one  lemon,  one  tablespoonful  of  water,  a  piece  of  soda 
the  size  of  a  small  pea,  a  pinch  of  salt.  Mix  the  yolks  and  sugar 
until  they  are  creamy,  then  add  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of 
the  lemon  with  a  pinch  of  salt ;  dissolve  the  soda  in  the  water ; 
lastly,  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs  (after  beating  them  very  stiff) 
and  the  flour,  putting  them  in  alternately,  stirring  as  little  as 
possible.  The  oven  must  not  be  too  hot  at  first,  so  that  it  will 
not  crust  over. 

Cream  Sponge  Cake. — One  cupful  of  cream,  two  cupfuls  of 
sugar,  two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour,  five  eggs,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  soda,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Citron  Cake. — Three  cups  of  white  sugar  and  one  cup  of 
butter  creamed  together ;  one  cup  of  sweet  milk,  six  eggs, 
whites  and  yolks  beaten  separately ;  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
or  lemon  extract,  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder 
sifted  with  four  cups  and  a  half  of  flour;  one  cup  and  a  half 
of  citron,  sliced  thin  and  dredged  with  flour.  Divide  into  two 
cakes  and  bake  in  tins  lined  with  buffered  letter-paper. 


404  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Citron  Pound  Cake. — Stir  two  cups  of  butter  to  a  cream, 
then  beat  in  the  following  ingredients,  each  one  in  succession : 
one  pint  of  powdered  sugar,  one  quart  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  eight  eggs,  the  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately,  and 
a  wine  glass  of  brandy  ;  then  last  of  all  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  citron  cut  into  thin  slices  and  floured.  Line  two  cake  pans 
with  buttered  paper  and  turn  the  cake  batter  in.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour. 

White  Cake. — Beat  together  three  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  one 
of  butter,  making  it  very  light ;  then  add  a  cupful  of  milk.  Beat 
the  whites  of  eight  eggs  very  stiff ;  add  half  of  those  to  the 
other  ingredients.  Mix  well  into  four  cups  of  sifted  flour  one 
tablespoonful  of  baking  powder;  stir  this  into  the  cake;  add 
flavoring,  then  the  remaining  beaten  whites  of  egg.  Bake  in 
layers  like  jelly-cake.  Make  an  icing  for  the  filling,  using  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  with  two  cups  of 
fine  white  sugar,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Spread  each 
layer  of  the  cake  thickly  with  this  icing,  place  one  on  another, 
then  ice  all  over  the  top  and  sides.  The  yolks  left  from  this 
cake  may  be  used  to  make  a  spice-cake.  See  formula  for  Spice- 
cake. 

Spice  Cake. — Take  the  yolks  of  seven  eggs,  and  one  whole 
egg>  one  pound  of  brown  sugar,  one  cupful  of  molasses,  one 
cupful  of  butter,  one  large  coffeecupful  of  sour  milk,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda  (just  even  full),  and  five  cupfuls  of  flour;  one 
teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  ginger,  one  nutmeg,  and  a  small  pinch  of 
Cayenne  pepper.  Beat  eggs,  sugar,  and  butter  to  a  light  batter 
before  putting  in  the  molasses  ;  then  add  the  molasses,  flour,  and 
milk ;  beat  it  well  together,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  If 
fruit  is  used,  take  two  cupfuls  of  raisins,  flour  them  well,  and  put 
them  in  last. 

Cocoanut  and  Almond  Cake. — Two  and  one-half  cups  pow- 
dered sugar,  one  cup  butter,  four  full  cups  prepared  flour,  whites 


Cake.  405 

of  seven  eggs  whisked  stiff  ;  one  small  cup  of  milk,  with  a  mere 
pinch  of  soda;  one  grated  cocoanut,  one-half  teaspoonful  nut- 
meg, the  juice  and  half  the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon ;  cream, 
butter,  and  sugar.  Stir  in  lemon  and  nutmeg ;  mix  well ;  add  the 
milk  and  whites  and  flour  alternately ;  lastly,  stir  in  the  grated 
cocoanut  swiftly  and  lightly.  Bake  in  four  jelly-cake  tins. 

Filling. — One  pound  sweet  blanched  almonds,  whites  of  four 
eggs  beaten  stiff,  one  heaping  cup  powdered  sugar,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  rose-water. 

Cup  Cake. — Cream  half  a  cup  of  butter,  with  three  cups  of 
sugar,  by  beating  ;  stir  in  five  eggs  ;  dissolve  a  small  teaspoonful 
of  soda  in  a  cup  of  sweet  milk ;  add  six  cups  of  sifted  flour ;  stir 
all  well  together,  and  if  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  milk,  without 
any  more  soda.  Flavor  with  essence  of  lemon  and  a  little 
grated  nutmeg,  Stir  all  well  together,  and  bake  in  three  pans. 

Molasses  Cup  Cake. — Butter  one-half  cup,  molasses  one 
cup,  sugar  one  cup,  sweet  milk  one  cup,  three  eggs,  three  cups 
of  flour,  one  large  tablespoonful  of  ginger,  half  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  molasses.  Mix  butter 
and  sugar  together  well  first,  then  add  the  other  ingredients, 
eggs  well  beaten  being  the  last.  This  is  very  good. 

Cake  without  Eggs. — One  pint  of  sour  milk,  a  pint  and 
a  half  or  two  pints  of  flour,  one  pound  of  raisins,  one  cup  of 
butter,  three  cups  of  sugar,  a  spoonful  of  saleratus,  and  spice 
to  taste.  Mix  together  and  bake  an  hour. 

Coffee  Cake. — Two  eggs,  two  cups  of  sugar,  one  cup  of 
coffee  (liquid),  three-fourths  cup  of  butter,  three  cups  of  flour, 
one  teaspoonful  each  of  cloves,  cinnamon,  and  nutmeg,  one 
teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
soda. 

(winger  Pound  Cake  with  Fruit. — Three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  two  pounds 
of  flour,  six  eggs,  one  quart  of  molasses,  half  a  pound  of  cur- 
rants, quarter  of  a  pound  of  raisins,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 


406  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

ginger,  one  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon, 
three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder  dissolved  in  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  milk.  Bake  one  hour. 

New  Year's  Hickory  Nut  Cake. — One  pound  of  flour,  one 
pound  of  sugar,  three-quarters  pound  of  butter,  six  eggs,  two 
teaspoons  of  cream  of  tartar,  one  of  soda,  half  cup  of  sweet 
milk.  Beat  the  cake  thoroughly,  and  then  stir  in  a  small  meas- 
ure of  hickory-nuts,  first,  of  course,  taking  them  from  the  shell. 
Bake  in  a  steady  but  not  quick  oven.  This  is  a  very  fine  cake. 

Huckleberry  Cake. — One  cup  of  sugar,  one  egg,  piece  of 
butter  size  of  an  egg,  half  a  cup  of  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
two  of  cream  of  tartar,  a  teaspoonful  of  any  preferred  essence, 
and  sifted  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Put  cream  of  tartar  in 
the  flour,  soda  in  the  milk,  and  beat  thoroughly.  Add  last 
a  pint  of  dried  huckleberries,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  This  is 
cheap  and  good. 

Found  Cake. — Beat  six  eggs  to  a  froth,  then  add  a  pound  of 
sugar  and  half  a  pound  of  butter  ;  beat  all  well  together  ;  dissolve 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  half  a  cup  of  milk.  Take  a  pound 
of  sifted  flour  and  rub  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  through 
it  with  your  hands ;  add  the  eggs,  sugar,  and  butter ;  stir  all 
thoroughly  together,  flavor  to  suit  the  taste,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Ginger  Snaps. — One  pint  of  molasses,  one  teaspoonful  of 
butter  and  lard  mixed,  two  even  teaspoonfuls  of  soda  dissolved 
in  two-thirds  of  a  teacupful  of  boiling  water,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  ginger ;  mix  as  quickly  as  possible,  with  flour  enough  to  roll 
thin,  and  bake  quickly  to  a  light  brown.  Sorghum  molasses  out 
is  preferred.  They  will  keep  any  length  of  time. 

Loaf  Cake. — Stir  into  two  quarts  of  flour  a  pint  of  milk 
slightly  warmed  and  a  small  teacup  of  yeast.  Place  it  near  the 
fire,  where  it  will  rise  quickly.  When  perfectly  light,  work  in 
with  the  hand  four  beaten  eggs,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  of 
cinnamon,  a  wine  glass  of  currant  jelly,  a  grated  nutmeg,  and 


Cake.  407 

some  chipped  citron.  Stir  a  pound  of  sugar  with  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  butter ;  when  white,  work  it  into  cake ;  add 
another  quart  of  sifted  flour,  and  beat  the  whole  with  the  hand 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  then  set  it  up. 

Snow  Cake. — Take  half  a  pound  of  butter,  half  a  pound  of 
sugar,  whites  only  of  six  eggs,  and  one  pound  of  arrowroot. 
Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  then  add  the  arrowroot  and  sugar 
gradually,  beating  all  the  time ;  beat  the  six  whites  separately 
in  a  basin,  and  when  a  stiff  froth,  add  to  the  mixture  ;  put  a  few 
drops  of  any  sort  of  essence,  either  lemon,  almond,  or  vanilla,  and 
beat  all  for  twenty  minutes.  Then  put  into  a  tin  and  bake  in 
a  moderate  oven,  great  care  being  taken  that  the  outside  is  not 
burnt  before  the  inside  is  done.  Some  persons  cut  snow  cake 
into  slices  before  sending  it  to  table,  having  previously  cut  off 
the  outside  and  sifted  powdered  sugar  over  each  slice. 

Small  Seed  Cakes. — One  cup  of  butter,  two  of  white  sugar, 
three  eggs,  half  a  cup  of  seeds,  and  flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff 
paste.  Roll  it  very  thin,  with  sugar  instead  of  flour,  on  the 
board,  and  cut  it  in  round  shapes.  Bake  it  about  fifteen  min- 
utes. 

Cream  Cake. — One  cup  of  sugar,  one  of  sour  cream,  two  of 
sifted  flour,  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  half 
of  soda,  half  of  salt.  Flavor  with  essence  of  almond.  It  is 
quickly  made,  and  delicious  eaten  fresh. 

Cream  Cakes. — (Outside?)  Two  cups  of  flour,  half  cup  of 
butter,  half  pint  cold  water.  Boil  the  butter  and  water  to- 
gether, and  stir  the  flour  in  gradually  while  boiling.  Let  it 
cool ;  then  add  five  eggs,  a  pinch  of  saleratus,  and  a  little  salt. 
Drop  the  mixture  on  tins,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

(Inside?)  One  pint  of  milk,  one  cup  white  sugar,  half  cup  of 
flour,  two  eggs.  Beat  the  eggs,  sugar,  and  flour  together,  and 
stir  them  in  the  milk  while  boiling.  Flavor  with  lemon  or 
vanilla.  Cut  a  slit  in  the  side  of  each  cake,  and  put  in  the  filling 
after  the  cakes  cool. 


408  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 


LATER   CAKES. 

Lemon  Jelly  Cake. — One-half  cupful  of  butter,  two  cup- 
fuls  of  sugar,  three  eggs  (or  the  whites  of  six),  one  cupful  of 
milk,  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar, 
one  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

The  Jelly. — Two  grated  lemons,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  whites 
of  two  eggs  beaten  stiff.  Put  all  together,  boil  over  water  until 
stiff.  Cool  before  putting  on  the  cake. 

Orange  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
one-half  cupful  of  water,  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  whites  of  four 
eggs,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda,  the  juice  and  rind  of  one 
orange.  Bake  in  jelly-cake  tins.  Then  beat  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  to  a  froth,  adding  sugar  till  too  stiff  to  stir  ;  add  juice  and 
rind  of  one  orange,  and  spread  between  cakes. 

Ice  Cream  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  of  butter, 
two  of  flour,  one  of  corn-starch,  one  of  sweet  milk,  the  whites  of 
eight  eggs,  two  large  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

The  Mixture. — Pour  one-half  pint  of  boiling  water  over  four 
cupfuls  of  sugar ;  cook  until  it  candies,  taking  care  that  it  does 
not  grain.  Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  then  pour  the  sugar 
over  them,  beating  all  the  time.  Flavor  with  vanilla.  Dissolve 
a  little  citric  acid,  and  put  one  teaspoonful  in  the  icing.  Stand 
in  a  cool  place. 

Boll  Cake. — One  large  cupful  each  of  sugar  and  flour,  three 
eggs,  half  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tar- 
tar, one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  one  large  spoonful  of  milk.  Bake 
on  tin  sheets,  and  spread  with  lemon  cheese  cake,  and  roll. 

Lemon  Cheese  Cake. — One  pound  of  white  sugar,  one  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  whites  of  four, 
grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  and  the  juice  of  three.  Put  these 


Layer  Cakes.  409 

ingredients  into  a  pan  over  the  fire,  and  stir  gently  until  the 
sugar  melts  and  it  begins  to  thicken, — about  the  consistency  of 
strained  honey. 

Custard  Cake. — One  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  flour, 
three  eggs,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  one  small  teaspoonful 
of  soda,  two  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Custard. — One  pint  of  milk,  two  eggs,  one-half  cupful  of 
sugar,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  corn-starch.  Boil  until  it  thickens. 
Flavor  with  vanilla.  When  cold,  cut  the  cake  in  four  rounds, 
and  add  the  custard  between.  Frost  it,  if  you  like. 

Cream  Cake. — One  cupful  of  sugar,  one  egg,  two  cupfuls 
of  flour,  one-half  cupful  of  milk,  butter  of  the  size  of  an  egg, 
one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Cream  Inside. — One  coffeecupful  of  sweet  milk,  one-half 
cupful  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  the  white  of  one,  one 
heaping  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch. 

Cream  Puffs. — Stir  into  a  pint  of  boiling  water  one-quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  one-half  pound  of  flour,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  mixing  well  together  before  putting  them 
into  the  water.  Stir  constantly  until  it  will  cleave  entirely  from 
the  kettle.  When  perfectly  cold,  mix  in  six  eggs,  one  at  a  time, 
stirring  constantly ;  beat  a  whole  egg,  to  glaze  over  the  top. 
Drop  in  tins  to  bake ;  they  will  puff  up,  leaving  a  place  for 
the  custard  : — One  pint  of  cream  or  milk,  one  tablespoonful  of 
corn-starch,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  gelatine,  four  eggs. 

Cream  Pie. — One  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  flour,  four 
eggs.  Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  together  to  a  cream,  add  the 
flour,  then  the  whites  well  beaten,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  milk 
with  one  of  baking  powder.  Bake  in  jelly  tins.  For  the  cus- 
tard, take  two  eggs  beaten  separately,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one 
tablespoonful  of  corn-starch,  add  a  little  cold  milk,  and  then 
pour  the  mixture  into  less  than  a  pint  of  scalding  milk  or  cream, 
and  stir  constantly  until  cooked.  When  the  cake  is  cold,  spread 
with  the  custard.  Flavor  to  suit. 


4io  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Roll  Jelly  Cake. — One  scant  teacupful  of  sugar,  three  eggs, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  one  cupful  of  flour,  one  scant  tea- 
spoonful  of  saleratus,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 
Spread  it  thin  on  a  long  dripping-pan,  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 
Spread  the  jelly  on  while  hot,  and  roll  up. 

Washington  Pie. — One  teacupful  of  sugar  rubbed  to  a 
cream  with  butter  of  the  size  of  an  egg.  Beat  four  eggs  sepa- 
rately, and  stir  in  one  heaping  cupful  of  sifted  flour,  with  a  full 
teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  dis- 
solved in  one  small  teaspoonful  of  milk.  Divide  the  mixture 
on  two  shallow  tin  plates  well  buttered ;  put  in  a  moderate 
oven ;  put  preserves  or  jelly  between  the  cakes  ;  and,  -when  on 
the  plate,  sprinkle  some  fine  powdered  sugar  over  upper  crust. 

Cocoanut  Layer  Cake. — One  cocoanut  grated,  one-half 
pound  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  the  rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon.  Mix 
the  ingredients  together ;  cook  till  the  egg  thickens,  stirring 
constantly.  Put  this  mixture  between  layers  of  silver  cake. 
Frost  the  loaf,  and  sprinkle  with  cocoanut. 

Chocolate  Jelly  Cake. —  The  Jelly.—  One-half  pound  of  sweet 
chocolate  grated  fine.  Boil  one-half  pint  of  milk,  and  pour  over 
it.  Add  one  well-beaten  egg,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  and  vanilla 
to  taste. 

The  Cake. — One  cupful  of  butter,  one  of  milk,  four  of  flour, 
four  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  soda  dissolved  in  the  milk,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  cream  of  tartar  sifted  with  the  flour.  This  makes  two 
cakes  four  layers  thick. 

Marble  Cake. — Dark  Part. — The  yolks  of  seven  eggs,  two 
cupfuls  of  brown  sugar,  one  of  molasses,  one  of  butter,  one  of 
sour  cream,  five  of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  two  of 
cloves,  one  of  nutmeg,  one  of  allspice,  one  and  one-half  of  soda. 

White  Part. — The  whites  of  seven  e^  .*  two  cupfuls  of  white 
sugar,  one  of  butter,  two-thirds  of  a  cup.  \  of  sweet  milk,  three 
of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar,  one  of  soda.  Flavor 
with  vanilla. 


Layer  Cakes.  411 

Cream  Frosting. — One-half  pint  of  sweet  thick  cream 
whipped,  sweetened  and  flavored  with  vanilla.  Cut  a  loaf  of 
cake  in  two  ;  spread  the  frosting  between  and  on  the  top. 

Fruit  Cream  Filling. — Cut  fruits  into  thin  slices,  and  pre- 
pare cream  by  whipping  and  sweetening.  Put  a  layer  of  fruits 
between  the  layers  of  cake,  and  pour  cream  over  each  layer  and 
over  the  top.  All  kinds  of  fruits  may  be  used  by  this  formula, 
mashing  the  berries,  and  stewing  thick  with  powdered  sugar. 

Fruit  Filling. — Take  one-half  cup  of  finely-chopped  citron, 
one-half  cup  of  finely-chopped  seeded  raisins,  half  of  a  cupful  of 
blanched  almonds  chopped  fine,  also  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
finely  chopped  figs.  Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth,  adding  half  of  a  cupful  of  sugar;  then  mix  thoroughly 
into  this  the  whole  of  the  chopped  ingredients.  Put  it  between 
the  layers  of  cake  when  the  cake  is  hot,  so  that  it  will  cook  the 
egg  a  little.  This  will  be  found  delicious. 

Icing  for  Cakes. — An  icing  without  eggs  may  be  prepared 
by  boiling  a  cup  of  granulated  sugar  in  five  tablespoonfuls  of 
sweet  milk  for  five  minutes,  then  beating  until  cool  enough  to 
spread.  One  with  egg  may  be  easily  made  of  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar,  the  white  of  one  egg,  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
boiling  water,  mixed  without  beating.  A  colored  icing  may  be 
made  by  using  a  teaspoonful  of  boiling  cranberry  juice  or  other 
red  fruit  juice  instead  of  water.  The  top  of  the  icing  may  be 
ornamented  with  roasted  almonds,  bits  of  colored  sugar,  or 
frosted  fruits. 

Lemon  Jelly  Filling. — Grate  the  yellow  from  the  rind  of 
two  lemons  and  squeeze  out  the  juice  ;  add  one  pound  of  sugar, 
the  yolks  and  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  separately.  Mix  the 
sugar  and  yolks,  then  add  the  whites,  and  then  the  lemons. 
Now  pour  on  a  cupful  of  boiling  water ;  stir  into  this  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sifted  flour,  rubbed  smooth  in  half  a  cup  of  water; 
then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter.  Cook  until  it  thick- 


412  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

ens.  When  cold,  spread  between  the  layers  of  cake.  Oranges 
can  be  used  in  place  of  lemons. 

To  Make  Frosting  without  Eggs  for  all  kinds  of  Cakes.— 

Mix  thoroughly  with  cold  water  sufficient  confectioner's  sugar 
so  that  it  will  spread  nicely,  and  flavor  to  suit  the  taste ;  and 
spread  it  on  while  the  cake  is  still  warm  (not  hot).  Be  sure  not 
to  use  granulated  or  pulverized  sugar.  No  eggs  are  necessary. 
You  can  also  mix  this  frosting  with  cocoanut,  chocolate,  lemon, 
etc.,  in  making  layer  cakes. 

Boiled  Icing. — Two  cups  sugar  dissolved  in  one-half  cup  of 
water.  Boil  until  it  strings.  Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth,  and  stir  into  the  syrup  after  it  strings.  Beat  all  to- 
gether until  nearly  cold. 

Cream  Filling. — Cream  filling  is  made  with  two  cups  fresh 
milk,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sifted  flour,  two  eggs,  and  one  cup 
of  sugar.  Put  some  of  the  milk  on  the  stove  to  boil ;  stir  the 
sugar,  flour,  and  eggs  in  what  is  left  of  the  milk.  When  the 
milk  boils,  add  into  it  the  rest,  and  cook  it  until  it  is  as  thick  as 
custard  ;  when  cool,  add  vanilla  extract.  This  custard  is  nice 
with  a  cup  of  hickory-nut  kernels  chopped  fine  and  stirred  into 
it.  Spread  between  the  layers  of  cake. 


COLORING  FOR  CAKES   AND  FRUITS. 

Bark  Red  Coloring. — Take  eight  grains  of  cream  of  tartar 
finely  powdered  and  ten  grains  of  cochineal ;  add  to  it  a  piece 
of  alum  the  size  of  a  small  pea,  and  boil  with  four  tablespoon- 
fuls of  soft  water  in  a  granite  iron  vessel  for  fifteen  minutes ; 
then  strain  through  a  cheese-cloth,  put  in  a  bottle  and  keep  it 
tightly  corked.  If  you  wish  to  keep  it  any  length  of  time,  put 
in  a  little  alcohol. 

Pink  Coloring. — Strawberry  or  cranberry  juice  makes  the 


Coloring  for  Cakes  and  Fruits.  413 

best  coloring  for  frosting  or  confectionery.  But  when  you  can- 
not get  them,  buy  two  cents'  worth  of  cochineal,  put  it  into  half 
a  teacupful  of  alcohol;  let  it  stand  twenty  minutes;  strain 
through  a  cheese-cloth,  put  in  a  bottle  and  cork  tight. 

Angel  Cake. — Whites  of  nine  large  eggs,  one  and  one  quar- 
ter cupfuls  of  sifted  granulated  sugar,  one  cup  of  sifted  flour, 
one- half  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  a  pinch  of  salt  added  to 
the  eggs  before  beating.  After  sifting  the  flour  four  or  five 
times,  measure  and  set  aside  one  cupful ;  sift  the  sugar,  and  set 
aside  one  and  one-quarter  cupfuls  ;  beat  the  whites  of  eggs  about 
half;  add  the  cream  of  tartar,  and  beat  to  a  stiff  froth;  stir 
in  the  sugar  and  flour  at  the  same  time  very  lightly.  It  should 
be  folded  in,  as  too  much  stirring  tends  to  toughen  the  cake. 
Flavor,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  forty  minutes  in  the  patent 
cake-pans.  The  pans  should  be  inverted  and  left  until  the  cake 
is  cold  before  it  is  removed.  In  this  manner  it  has  a  chance  to 
stretch  instead  of  falling.  Never  grease  these  pans ;  if  ordinary 
pans  are  used,  put  a  layer  of  paper  in  the  bottom. 


PIES. 


Good  Plain  Pastry  (American.} — The  secret  of  success  in 
making  pastry  is  to  work  quickly  in  a  cool  room,  and  to  keep  the 
pastry  as  cold  as  possible.  Even  in  making  plain  pastry,  only 
the  best  flour  and  butter  should  be  used ;  the  flour  should 
be  freshly  sifted,  and  the  butter  worked  with  the  hands  in  plenty 
of  ice  water  until  it  assumes  a  waxy  appearance  and  touch ;  if  it 
is  worked  quickly  and  lightly,  it  will  not  stick  to  the  hands; 
when  the  butter  is  of  the  proper  consistency,  it  should  be  patted 
with  the  hands  into  a  cake  about  an  inch  thick,  wrapped  in  a 
floured  towel,  and  put  in  a  dish  set  on  ice  in  summer,  or  out  of 
doors  in  winter,  so  that  it  may  become  quite  cold  while  the  paste 
is  being  prepared  ;  allow  half  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  pound  of 
flour.  After  the  flour  is  sifted,  mix  with  it  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  with  a  sharp  knife  chop  into  it  "one-third  of  the  butter;  then 
quickly  mix  with  it  enough  ice  water  to  make  a  dough  which 
does  not  stick  to  the  hands ;  the  mixing  may  be  done  with  the 
knife  or  the  hand,  but  it  must  be  done  quickly;  next,  lightly 
flour  a  smooth  pastry  board  or  marble  slab,  lay  the  dough  on  it, 
and  with  a  floured  roller  roll  it  out  about  half  an  inch  thick ;  cut 
the  rest  of  the  butter  in  thick  slices  and  lay  it  upon  the  dough, 
with  spaces  of  about  an  inch  between  the  slices  ;  dust  flour  lightly 
over  the  butter,  and  fold  the  paste  over  it  in  such  a  way  as  to 
make  a  nice  appearance,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Paste  for  Pies  (from  the  French}. — Sift  on  clean  table  four 
cupfuls  of  flour ;  make  a  hollow  space  in  the  center,  pour  into  it 


Pies.  41 5 

two  cupfuls  of  cold  water,  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt;  then,  with  the  hand,  knead  the 
ingredients  well  together  for  two  minutes,  and  gradually  and 
slowly  mix  in  the  balance  of  the  flour  with  the  rest  for  five 
minutes.  Lay  the  paste  on  a  dish,  and  put  it  to  rest  in  a  cool 
place  for  three  minutes.  Have  ready  three-quarters  of  a  cupful 
of  well-washed  butter  in  one  lump,  return  the  paste  to  the  table, 
flatten  it  slightly,  then  put  the  lump  of  butter  in  the  center,  fold 
over  the  edges  so  as  to  enclose  the  butter,  then  roll  it  out 
lengthwise  with  the  pastry  roller,  and  refold  the  paste  into  three 
folds.  Let  it  rest  again  in  a  cool  place  for  five  minutes,  then  roll 
it  again,  fold  it  as  before,  and  set  it  in  refrigerator  for  five 
minutes ;  the  paste  will  now  be  ready  to  use,  and  by  keeping  it 
in  the  ice  box  it  will  remain  in  good  condition  for  some  days. 

Puff  Paste  {from  the  French}. — Take  four  cupfuls  of  sifted 
flour,  one  pound  of  fresh  butter,  two  cupfuls  of  ice  water ;  add  a 
little  salt  (one-half  teaspoonful),  wash  the  butter  well  before  using 
it.  Put  the  flour  on  the  table,  make  a  hollow  space  in  the  center, 
then  put  in  it  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  the  butter,  adding  the 
ice  water  and  the  salt,  and  stir  the  whole  well  together,  so  it 
forms  gradually.  Put  it  aside  in  a  cool  place  for  five  minutes. 
Have  ready  the  remaining  butter,  which  must  be  solid,  sprinkle 
the  space  of  a  square  foot  of  the  table  with  a  very  little  flour, 
place  the  dough  on  it,  then  lengthen  and  widen  with  a  wooden 
roller  to  the  thickness  of  half -an  inch,  and  lay  the  balance  of  the 
butter  in  one  lump  in  the  center.  Fold  over  the  four  edges  so 
as  to  enclose  it,  then  flatten  again  lightly  with  the  roller  until  it 
forms  a  piece  two  inches  thick,  and  then  put  it  away  to  cool  for 
ten  minutes.  Roll  it  again  lengthwise,  fold  it  in  four,  and  let  it 
rest  for  another  five  minutes  ;  then  repeat  the  same  twice  more, 
rolling  it  each  time  in  a  contrary  direction.  After  five  minutes 
it  will  be  ready  for  use.  This  puff  paste,  if  put  away  carefully  in 
refrigerator,  will  keep  for  some  days,  and  can  be  used  for  various 


416  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

purposes.     If  butter  is  salty  no  salt  will  be  necessary — it  is  best 
to  put  butter  in  refrigerator,  so  it  will  be  solid  when  using. 

For  Icing  Pastry  (from  the  English}. — Take  the  white  of 
an  egg»  and  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  beat  it  to  a  stiff  froth. 
When  the  pastry  is  nearly  baked,  brush  it  over  with  this,  and  sift 
over  some  pounded  sugar ;  put  it  back  into  the  oven  to  set  the 
glaze,  and  in  a  few  minutes  it  will  be  done.  Great  care  should 
be  taken  that  the  paste  does  not  catch  or  burn  in  the  oven, 
which  it  is  very  liable  to  do  after  the  icing  is  laid  on. 

Or  make  a  meringue  by  adding  a  tablespoonful  of  white 
sugar  to  the  beaten  white  of  one  egg.  Spread  over  the  top,  and 
slightly  brown  in  the  oven. 

Pastry  (American). — Four  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  cupful  of 
butter,  one  cupful  of  lard.  Lay  aside  half  the  butter.  Cut  the 
rest  with  the  lard,  fine,  in  the  flour.  Add  a  cupful  of  very  cold 
water,  with  a  little  salt.  Mix  all  together  with  a  knife.  Pour 
out  on  the  pastry  board,  roll  out,  and  add  a  little  of  the  butter 
that  was  set  aside  each  time  till  all  is  used.  Do  not  touch  it  with 
the  hands,  if  possible  to  avoid  it. 

Paste  for  Tart  Shells.— Take  one- half  cup  of  rather  thin 
sweet  cream  which  has  been  placed  on  ice  until  very  cold  ;  add 
to  it  the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  whip  all  together 
briskly  for  ten  minutes.  Add  sufficient  white  flour  to  roll.  Cut 
into  the  required  shape,  bake  quickly,  but  do  not  brown.  Fill 
after  baking.  This  paste,  rolled  thin  and  cut  into  shapes  with  a 
cooky  cutter — one-half  of  them  baked  plain  for  under  crusts,  the 
other  half  ornamented  for  tops  by  cutting  small  holes  with  a 
thimble  or  some  fancy  mould — put  together  with  a  layer  of  some 
simple  fruit  jelly  between  them,  makes  a  most  attractive  looking 
dessert.  It  is  likewise  very  nice  baked  in  little  patty  pans,  and 
afterward  filled  with  apple  or  peach  marmalade  or  other  fillings. 

Lard  Pie  Crust. — Chop  together  in  a  bowl  one  pound  of  flour 
and  half  a  pound  of  firm  lard,  cutting  the  lard  in  little  flakes ; 


Pies.  417 

add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  the  flour,  and  sufficient  cold 
water  to  make  a  soft  paste ;  turn  the  paste  out  on  a  floured 
board,  and  roll  it  half  an  inch  thick ;  dust  the  paste  with  flour, 
and  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  over  it  in  small  bits ;  roll 
the  paste  up,  enclosing  the  butter  completely,  then  roll  and  fold 
it  several  times,  using  flour  enough  to  prevent  sticking  to  the 
board  or  roller ;  then  use  it  for  pies  or  puddings. 

Puff  Paste. — Take  four  ounces  of  best  wheat  flour,  four 
ounces  of  sweet  butter  ;  divide  the  butter  into  three  parts  ;  take 
one  of  the  three  pieces  and  rub  it  into  the  flour  with  the  hand 
till  well  mixed ;  then  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  water,  and  form 
with  a  spoon  into  a  very  stiff  paste ;  put  it  on  a  marble  table  or  a 
very  smooth  board,  and  roll  it  out  once  each  way ;  fold  the  four 
ends  inward,  and  roll  first  lengthways  and  then  sideways ;  spread 
on  half  the  remaining  butter  in  little  pieces,  sprinkle  with  flour, 
fold  and  roll  as  before ;  spread  on  the  rest  of  the  butter  and  re- 
peat the  process ;  now  fold  and  roll  twice,  and  put  it  away  to 
cool  for  ten  minutes.  Roll  out  the  paste  very  thin,  and  it  is 
ready  for  whatever  use  required. 

Pnff  Paste  of  Suet.— One-half  pound  of  flour,  one-half  pint 
of  water,  one  teaspoonful  baking  powder,  one-half  teaspoonful 
salt,  one  cup  of  finely  chopped  suet  freed  from  its  skin.  Place 
the  flour,  sifted  with  the  powder,  in  a  bowl,  add  suet  and  water ; 
mix  into  smooth,  rather  firm  dough. 

This  paste  is  excellent  for  fruit  puddings,  and  dumplings  that 
are  boiled ;  if  it  is  well  made,  it  will  be  light  and  flaky.  It  is 
also  excellent  for  meat  pies,  baked  or  boiled.  All  the  ingredients 
should  be  very  cold  in  mixing,  and  the  suet  dredged  with  flour 
after  it  is  chopped,  to  prevent  the  particles  from  adhering  to  each 
other. 

To  Make  Pie  Crust  Flaky. — In  making  a  pie,  after  you  have 
rolled  out  your  top  crust,  cut  it  about  the  right  size,  spread  it 
over  with  butter,  then  shake  sifted  flour  over  the  butter,  enough 


41 8  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

to  cover  it  well.  Cut  a  slit  in  the  middle,  place  it  over  the  top 
of  your  pie,  and  fasten  the  edges  as  any  pie.  Now  take  the  pie 
on  your  left  hand,  and  a  dipper  of  cold  water  in  your  right  hand ; 
tip  the  pie  slanting  a  little,  pour  over  the  water  sufficiently  to 
rinse  off  the  flour.  Enough  flour  will  stick  to  the  butter  to  fry 
into  the  crust  to  give  it  a  fine,  blistered,  flaky  look,  which  many 
cooks  think  is  much  better  than  rolling  the  butter  into  the 
crust. 

Potato  Pie  Crust. — Put  a  teacupful  of  rich  sweet  cream  to 
six  good-sized  potatoes  after  they  have  been  well  boiled,  and 
mash  fine.  Add  salt  to  taste,  and  flour  enough  to  roll  out  the 
crust.  Handle  it  as  little  as  possible.  It  is  better  not  to  put 
crust  at  the  bottom  of  a  pie  if  the  fruit  is  very  moist,  for  it  will  be 
clammy  from  the  moisture,  but  let  the  under  crust  only  cover  the 
rim  of  the  plate.  Prick  the  upper  crust  to  let  out  the  steam,  else 
the  juice  will  run  over.  This  paste  is  excellent  for  apple  dump- 
lings or  meat  pies,  and  may  be  eaten  by  the  most  fastidious 
dyspeptic. 

Crust  for  Raised  Pies. — Take  two  ounces  of  lard,  two  ounces 
of  butter;  put  both  together  in  a  stew  pan  with  a  teacupful  of 
water  to  boil ;  mix  it  with  one  pound  of  sifted  flour  while  it  is 
boiling  hot,  first  with  a  spoon  and  then  with  the  hand.  Roll  out 
as  other  crust  for  pies. 

Suet  Crust  for  Meat  Pies. — Take  the  fiber  from  eight  ounces 
of  soft  beef  suet,  and  pound  it  to  a  soft  mash  ;  mix  it  with  one 
pound  of  fine  flour ;  then  make  the  crust  in  the  same  way  as  for 
puff  paste,  using  the  pounded  suet  instead  of  butter. 

Lemon  Cream  Pie. — The  juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon, 
one  cup  of  white  sugar,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sifted  flour,  milk  to  fill  the  plate.  This  makes  a  large 
pie,  and  should  be  made  with  an  under  crust,  but  not  any  top 
crust.  Bake  until  nearly  done,  then  take  from  the  oven,  and 
pour  over  it  a  frosting  made  of  the  beaten  whites  of  the  two 


Pies.  419 

eggs  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar;  then  set  back  in 
the  oven,  and  brown  lightly.  One  of  the  best  pies  ever  eaten. 

Cream  Pie. — Three  cupfuls  of  milk,  two  eggs,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  corn- starch,  butter  of  the  size  of  a  walnut,  a  pinch  of 
salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Have  the  crust  ready  baked. 
Then  scald  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  the  milk,  with  the  butter 
and  salt.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  with  the  corn-starch  and 
the  other  one  and  one-half  cup  of  milk,  adding  this  to  the  scald- 
ing milk,  with  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  extract  Put  it  in  the 
crust,  and  bake  till  done.  Then  beat  the  whites  of  the  egg  to  a 
stiff  froth  with  a  little  sugar,  and  spread  over  the  pie.  Return  to 
oven  and  brown  lightly. 

Apple  Pie. — Make  a  nice  flaky  crust,  pare  and  slice  the  apples 
thin,  spread  them  on  the  plate  an  inch  thick,  sprinkle  sugar  on 
them,  then  spread  on  some  currant  jelly,  dredge  on  a  little  flour, 
add  a  little  nutmeg,  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  three  spoonfuls 
of  water.  Just  before  putting  in  the  oven,  sprinkle  a  little  gran- 
ulated sugar  on  it. 

Squash  Pie. — Cook  and  strain  the  squash,  add  five  eggs,  juice 
and  rind  of  two  lemons,  brandy,  wine,  sugar,  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste,  nutmeg,  cinnamon,  and  a  good  lump  of  butter. 

Acid  Pie. — One  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  water,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  tartaric  acid,  raisins  or 
dried  currants,  and  nutmeg.  Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a 
little  cold  water,  then  add  one  teacup  of  hot  water. 

Cracker  Pie. — One  teaspoonful  of  tartaric  acid,  one  teacupful 
of  boiling  water  poured  upon  the  cracker,  previously  dissolving 
the  acid  in  the  water,  add  one  teacupful  of  sugar,  and  flavor  with 
nutmeg  or  lemon.  This  will  make  one  pie — a  good  imitation  of 
apple  pie. 

Orange  Pie. — Use  part  of  the  grated  rind  and  all  the  juice  of 
one  large  orange  or  two  small  ones ;  stir  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
with  one  cupful  of  sugar ;  mix  with  the  orange,  adding  one  cup- 


420  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified, 

ful  of  milk  and  the  three  beaten  whites.  Bake  with  an  under 
crust. 

Currant  Pie. — One  cupful  of  ripe  currants  crushed  fine,  one 
cupful  of  sugar,  one-half  cupful  of  water,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Bake  with  an  under  crust.  When 
cooked,  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  with  four  spoonfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar ;  spread  it  on  the  top  of  the  pie  and  return  to  the 
oven  to  brown. 

Lemon  Pie. — One  cofifeecupful  of  white  sugar,  one  coffeecup- 
ful  of  milk,  six  eggs,  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  rind  and  juice  of 
two  lemons.  Bake  with  puff  paste.  Do  not  let  it  whey  or  bake 
so  long  as  a  custard  pie.  When  baked  add  a  meringue  of  beaten 
white  of  egg  and  sugar  and  put  it  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

Lemon  Custard  Pie. — The  rind  of  a  lemon  grated  and  the 
pulp  cut  very  fine.  To  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  beaten  light  add 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sugar  and  one  cupful  of  milk  and 
cream  mixed.  Make  a  rich  paste.  Bake  twenty  minutes.  Beat 
the  whites  very  stiff  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  spread  on 
smooth  and  bake  a  few  minutes. 

Peach  Pie. — Select  mellow,  juicy  peaches,  wash  them  and 
place  in  a  deep  pie  plate  lined  with  paste,  strew  a  thick  layer  of 
sugar  on  each  of  the  peaches,  adding  a  spoonful  of  water  and  a 
sprinkling  of  flour  over  the  top  of  each  layer ;  cover  with  a  thick 
crust  and  bake  about  an  hour.  The  prussic  acid  of  the  stone 
imparts  a  most  agreeable  flavor  to  the  pie.  Stew  peaches  that 
are  hard  before  making  them  into  pies.  Also  stew  dried  peaches 
soft  and  sweeten  them,  and  give  them  no  other  spice  than  a  few 
of  the  kernels  blanched  and  pounded  fine  in  a  very  little  rose- 
water. 

Grape  Pie. — Pop  the  pulps  out  of  the  skins  into  one  dish,  and 
put  the  skins  into  another.  Then  simmer  the  pulp  a  little  over 
the  fire  to  soften  it ;  remove  it  and  rub  it  through  a  colander  to 
separate  it  from  the  seeds.  Then  put  the  skins  and  pulp  to- 


Pies.  421 

gather,  and  they  are  ready  for  pies  or  for  canning  or  putting  in 
jugs  for  further  use.     Fine  for  pies. 

Lemon  Filling. — Into  one  cup  of  boiling  water  stir  one  table- 
spoonful  of  corn-starch  previously  braided  smooth  with  the  juice 
of  a  large  lemon.  Cook  until  it  thickens,  then  add  one-half  cup- 
ful of  sugar  and  a  little  grated  yellow  rind  of  the  lemon. 

Tapioca  Filling. — Soak  one  tablespoonful  of  tapioca  over 
night  in  one  cup  of  water ;  mash  and  stir  the  tapioca,  simmer 
gently  until  clear  and  thick,  adding  enough  water  to  cook  it  well ; 
add  half  a  cup  of  white  sugar  and  a  tablespoonful  each  of  lemon 
and  orange  juice.  If  desired  a  little  raspberry  or  currant  juice 
may  be  added  to  make  the  jelly  of  a  pink  color. 

Cream  Filling. — One  cup  of  rich  milk  (part  cream  if  it  can 
be  afforded)  heated  to  boiling.  Into  this  stir  one  scant  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  previously  braided  smooth  with  a  little  cold 
milk.  Add  to  this  the  well-beaten  yolk  of  one  egg  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar.  Turn  this  mixture  into  the  hot  milk  and  stir 
until  it  thickens.  Flavor  with  a  little  grated  lemon  rind,  vanilla, 
or,  if  preferred,  flavor  the  milk  with  cocoanut  before  using.  Fill 
the  tart  shells,  and  meringue  with  the  white  of  the  egg  beaten  stiff 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar. 

Peach  Tarts.— Take  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste  ;  roll  it  out 
twelve  inches  long  by  eight  wide,  then  cut  six  pieces,  and  arrange 
them  neatly  on  six  scalloped  tart  molds,  each  three  and  a  half 
inches  wide.  Take  each  separate  mold  in  the  hand,  and  with 
the  thumb  press  the  paste  gently  at  the  bottom  and  sides,  so  as  to 
give  it  the  perfect  shape  of  the  mold,  but  avoid  pressing  the 
paste  on  the  edge,  so  that  in  baking  it  will  swell  and  raise  beauti- 
fully. Divide  three  ounces  of  apple  marmalade  into  six  equal 
parts,  and  fill  the  bottom  of  the  tarts  with  it ;  then  wipe  six  good- 
sized,  solid,  fine  peaches,  peel  and  cut  them  into  six  quartered 
pieces ;  arrange  them  nicely  over  the  marmalade  in  the  tarts, 
then  distribute  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  evenly  over  all ;  lay 


V55 


422  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

them  on  a  baking  sheet,  put  them  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for 
twenty  minutes,  draw  them  to  the  door  and  sprinkle  the  edges 
lightly  with  powdered  sugar ;  then  leave  them  in  the  closed 
oven  for  two  minutes  to  allow  the  sugar  to  melt  thoroughly.  Re- 
move them  from  the  fire,  put  to  cool  for  twenty  minutes,  and  then 
spread  evenly  over  the  peaches  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  apple 
jelly.  Dress  the  tarts  on  a  dessert  dish  and  serve. 

Any  kind  of  fruit  tarts  can  be  made  the  same  way,  only  sub- 
stituting the  different  fruits  for  the  peaches. 

Green  Gooseberry  Tart. — Top  and  tail  the  gooseberries. 
Put  into  a  porcelain  kettle  with  enough  water  to  prevent  burning, 
and  stew  slowly  until  they  break.  Take  them  off,  sweeten  well, 
and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cold  pour  into  pastry  shells  and 
bake  with  a  top  crust  of  puff  paste.  Brush  all  over  with  beaten 
egg  while  hot,  set  back  in  the  oven  to  glaze  three  minutes.  Eat 
cold. 

Mince  Meat  for  Mince  Pies. — Four  pounds  of  lean  boiled 
eef  chopped  fine,  twice  as  much  of  chopped  green  tart  apples, 
one  pound  of  chopped  suet,  three  pounds  of  raisins,  seeded,  two 
pounds  of  currants  picked  over,  washed  and  dried,  half  a  pound 
of  citron  cut  up  fine,  one  pound  of  brown  sugar,  one  quart  of 
cooking  molasses,  two  quarts  of  sweet  cider,  one  pint  of  boiled 
cider,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  pepper,  one 
tablespoonful  of  mace,  one  tablespoonful  of  allspice  and  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  two  grated  nutmegs,  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  cloves ;  mix  thoroughly  and  warm  it  on  the  range  until 
heated  through.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  nearly  cool 
stir  in  a  pint  of  good  brandy  and  one  pint  of  madeira  wine.  Put 
into  a  crock,  cover  it  tightly,  and  set  it  in  a  cold  place  where  it 
will  not  freeze,  but  keep  perfectly  cold.  It  will  keep  for  a  long 
time. 

Jelly  Custard  Pie. — Dissolve  three  tablespoonfuls  of  nice 
pure  fruit  jelly  in  a  very  little  warm  water,  add  one  and  one-half 


Pies.  423 

cups  of  milk  and  two  well-beaten  eggs,  stirring  the  whites  in  last. 
Bake  with  under  crust  only.  Jellies  are  usually  so  sweet  that 
no  sugar  is  needed.  Apple,  raspberry,  currant,  strawberry  and 
quince  jellies  all  make  nice  pies,  prepared  in  this  way. 

Chocolate  Custard  Pie. — One  quarter  cake  of  Baker's  choco- 
late grated,  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  six  eggs,  one  quart  of 
milk,  one  half  cupful  of  white  sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla. 
Dissolve  the  chocolate  in  a  very  little  milk,  stir  into  the  boiling 
water,  and  boil  three  minutes.  When  nearly  cold,  beat  up  with 
this  the  yolks  of  all  the  eggs  and  the  whites  of  three.  Stir  this 
mixture  into  the  milk,  season  and  pour  into  shells  of  good  paste. 
When  the  custard  is  "  set  " — but  not  more  than  half  done — spread 
over  the  whites  whipped  to  a  froth  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar. 

Apple  Custard  Pie. — Stew  good  dried  apples  till  perfectly 
tender  and  there  remains  but  very  little  juice.  Rub  through  a 
colander.  For  each  pie  use  one  cup  of  the  sifted  apples,  one  and 
a  half  cups  of  rich  milk,  two  eggs,  five  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 
and  a  Ifbtle  grated  lemon  rind  for  flavoring.  Bake  with  under 
crust  only.  Stewed  fresh  apples,  beaten  smooth  or  rubbed 
through  a  colander,  can  be  used  if  preferred.  The  eggs  may  be 
omitted,  and  one- half  cup  more  of  the  sifted  apples,  with  more 
sugar,  may  be  used  instead. 

Peach  Custard  Pie. — Cover  a  pie  plate  with  an  under  crust. 
Take  fresh  peaches,  pare,  halve  and  stone  them,  and  place  a 
layer  hollow  side  up  in  the  pie.  Prepare  a  custard  with  one  egg, 
one  cup  of  milk  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Pour 
the  custard  over  the  peaches  and  bake.  If  the  quantity  given 
will  not  entirely  cover  the  peaches,  a  little  more  must  be  pre- 
pared. Canned  peaches  which  are  not  broken  can  be  used  in- 
stead of  fresh  ones.  The  pieces  should  be  drained  free  from 
juice  and  less  sugar  used. 

Fruit  Pies. — Fruit  pies  should  be  eaten  fresh  and  baked  in 


424  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

tolerably  deep  earthen  platters.  Their  excellence  consists  in  a 
small  quantity  of  pastry  and  a  large  amount  of  fruit  and  sugar. 
Line  the  dish  with  good  paste,  leaving  half  an  inch  to  project 
over  the  edge.  Fill  with  fruit,  and  cover  thickly  with  sugar ;  no 
spice  is  needed  for  fresh  small  fruit  pies.  Put  on  a  lid  of  puff 
paste,  and  bring  the  outer  edge  of  the  under  paste  up  and  over  it, 
moistening  slightly  with  cold  water,  so  that  it  will  fasten  down 
tight  This  prevents  the  juice  from  boiling  out.  Notch  the 
edge  and  center. 

Cocoanut  Pie. — Cut  off  the  brown  part  of  cocoanut,  grate  the 
white  part,  mix  it  with  milk,  and  set  it  on  the  fire  and  let  it  boil 
slowly  eight  or  ten  minutes.  To  a  pound  of  the  grated  cocoa- 
nut  allow  a  quart  of  milk,  eight  eggs,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sifted 
white  sugar,  a  glass  of  wine,  a  small  cracker  pounded  fine,  two 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter  and  half  a  nutmeg.  The  eggs  and 
sugar  should  be  beaten  together  to  a  froth,  then  the  wine  stirred 
in.  Put  them  into  the  milk  and  cocoanut,  which  should  be  first 
allowed  to  get  quite  cool ;  add  the  cracker  and  nutmeg,  turn  the 
whole  into  deep  pie  plates,  with  a  lining  and  rim  of  puff  paste. 
Bake  them  as  soon  as  turned  into  the  plates. 

Pumpkin  Pie  without  Eggs.— Prepare  the  pumpkin  as  pre- 
viously directed.  For  two  medium- sized  pies,  heat  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  milk  in  a  farina  kettle,  and  when  scalding,  stir  into  it  two 
scant  tablespoonfuls  of  white  flour  rubbed  smooth  in  a  little  cold 
milk.  Cook,  stirring  often,  until  it  thickens.  Add  half  a  cup  of 
sugar,  or  a  little  less  of  syrup,  to  a  pint  and  a  half  of  the  sifted 
pumpkin,  and  after  beating  well  together,  stir  this  into  the  hot 
milk.  Bake  in  an  under  crust ;  or,  for  three  pies,  take  one  quart 
and  a  cupful  of  pumpkin,  three-fourths  of  a  cup  of  sugar,  two 
thirds  of  a  cup  of  best  New  Orleans  molasses,  and  three  pints  of 
hot  milk.  Beat  all  together  thoroughly.  Line  deep  plates  with 
a  cream  crust,  and  bake  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Pumpkin  Pie. — To   prepare   the    pumpkin,    cut   in   halves, 


Pies.  425 

remove  the  seeds,  divide  into  moderately  small  pieces,  and  bake 
in  the  oven  until  thoroughly  done.  Then  scrape  from  the  shell, 
rub  through  a  colander,  and  proceed  as  follows :  For  one  and 
one-third  pints  of  the  cooked  pumpkin  use  one  quart  of  hot,  rich, 
sweet  milk.  Add  one-half  cupful  of  sugar  and  the  well-beaten 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  beat  well  together;  add  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  beat  thoroughly.  Line  the  tins 
with  a  stiff  cream  paste,  fill,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  till  the 
pies  are  barely  firm  in  the  center,  or  till  the  custard  is  well  set. 

Cherry  Pie. — Stone  the  cherries,  fill  the  pie  crust  one-half 
full  with  ripe  cherries ;  sprinkle  over  them  about  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  add  a  little  butter  over  this ;  then 
fill  the  crust  full  with  the  cherries,  and  bake. 

Pineapple  Pie. — A  grated  pineapple,  its  weight  in  sugar, 
half  its  weight  in  butter,  one  cupful  of  cream,  five  eggs;  beat  the 
butter  to  a  creamy  froth,  add  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  the  eggs; 
continue  beating  till  very  light;  add  the  cream,  the  pineapple 
grated,  and  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Bake 
with  an  under  crust.  Eat  cold. 

Grape  Jelly  Pie. — Cook  perfectly  ripe  purple  grapes;  rub 
them  through  a  colander  to  remove  the  seeds  and  skins.  Return 
the  pulp  to  the  fire  and  thicken  with  rice  or  corn-starch  to  the 
consistency  of  thick  cream  or  jelly,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Fill 
an  under  crust  with  the  mixture,  and  bake.  The  top  may  be 
ornamented  with  pastry  cut  in  fancy  shapes  if  desired. 

Damson  or  Plum  Pie. — Stew  the  damsons  whole  in  water 
only  sufficient  to  prevent  their  burning ;  when  tender,  and  while 
hot,  sweeten  them  with  sugar,  and  let  them  stand  until  they 
become  cold ;  then  pour  them  into  pie  dishes  lined  with  paste, 
dredge  flour  upon  them,  cover  them  with  the  same  paste,  wet 
and  pinch  together  the  edges  of  the  paste,  cut  a  slit  in  the  center 
of  the  cover  through  which  the  vapor  may  escape,  and  bake 
twenty  minutes. 


426  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Rhubarb  Pie. — Cut  the  large  stalks  off  where  the  leaves 
commence,  strip  off  the  outside  skin,  then  cut  the  stalks  in  pieces 
half  an  inch  long ;  line  a  pie  dish  with  paste  rolled  rather  thicker 
than  a  dollar  piece,  put  a  layer  of  the  rhubarb  nearly  an  inch 
deep ;  to  a  quart  bowl  of  cut  rhubarb  put  a  large  teacupful  of 
sugar ;  strew  it  over  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  little  nut- 
meg grated;  shake  over  a  little  flour;  cover  with  a  rich  pie  crust, 
cut  a  slit  in  the  center,  trim  off  the  edge  with  a  sharp  knife,  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  the  pie  loosens  from  the  dish.  Rhubarb 
pies  made  in  this  way  are  altogether  superior  to  those  made  of 
the  fruit  stewed. 

Rhubarb  Pie. — Strip  off  the  skin,  and  slice  thin,  the  tender 
stalks  of  rhubarb.  Put  the  rhubarb  in  deep  plates  lined  with  pie 
crust,  with  a  thick  layer  of  sugar  to  each  layer  of  rhubarb,  and 
over  the  top  a  sprinkling  of  flour.  A  little  grated  lemon  peel 
may  be  added.  Place  over  the  top  a  thin  crust.  Press  tightly 
round  the  edge  of  the  plate  and  perforate  it  with  a  fork,  that  the 
crust  may  not  burst  while  baking  and  let  the  juices  of  the  pie 
escape.  Bake  about  one  hour  in  a  slow  oven.  This  rhubarb 
pie  must  not  be  quick- baked. 

Sweet  Potato  Pie. — Two  pounds  of  grated  potatoes,  one  and 
one-half  pound  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  cream,  one  pound  of 
butter  and  nine  eggs.  Put  the  whites  in  last. 

Tomato  Pie. — Peel  and  slice  (like  apples)  ripe  tomatoes  into 
the  pie,  with  sugar  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Sprinkle  flour  over 
top. 


PUDDINGS  AND  DUMPLINGS. 


GENERAL    REMARKS. 

In  order  to  have  good  success  in  the  making  of  puddings  and 
dumplings,  one  should  endeavor  to  procure  the  best  materials 
and  follow  the  formulas  as  given  minutely. 

If  the  pudding  is  to  be  steamed  have  the  .water  boil  rapidly 
from  the  time  your  pudding  is  placed  in  the  steamer,  and  see 
that  it  is  kept  boiling.  If  water  is  to  be  added,  see  that  it  is 
boiling  water,  so  as  not  to  reduce  the  temperature. 

Do  not  take  the  cover  off  the  vessel  until  the  pudding  is  done, 
as  that  will  let  in  the  cold  air  and  reduce  the  temperature. 

If  the  pudding  is  to  be  boiled,  see  that  the  ingredients  are 
well  worked  together.  Then  take  a  bag  made  of  thick  material, 
dip  it  into  hot  water,  wring  out  the  water,  sprinkle  the  inside  of 
bag  well  with  flour,  put  in  your  pudding,  tie  it  well,  allowing 
some  room  for  it  to  swell.  Place  it  in  a  vessel  of  boiling  water, 
have  a  plate  at  bottom  of  vessel  so  bag  will  rest  on  same. 
Allow  it  to  boil  all  the  time  until  done.  In  adding  water  see 
that  it  is  boiling  and  keep  the  vessel  well  covered.  When  done, 
plunge  immediately  in  cold  water  and  turn  out  the  pudding,  and 
serve  at  once. 

Basins  or  molds  used  for  baking,  steaming  or  boiling  should 
be  well  buttered  before  the  mixture  is  added. 


428  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

In  case  you  do  not  desire  to  boil  pudding  in  a  cloth,  use 
pudding  moulds,  but  close  very  tight,  so  water  cannot  enter. 
Place  them  in  a  vessel  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  the  specified 
time. 

Dumplings  are  boiled  in  the  same  way,  only  each  separated 
in  little  bags  or  moulds. 

All  sweet  puddings  should  have  a  little  salt  added,  but  be 
careful  to  get  the  proper  proportions. 

Batter  puddings  should  be  evenly  mixed  so  as  not  to  have 
lumps  form.  The  proper  way  is  to  first  mix  the  flour  and  suffi- 
cient milk  or  water,  and  then  add  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs 
thoroughly  beaten  together,  then  add  the  balance  of  the  milk 
slowly,  then  the  seasoning.  The  beaten  white  of  the  eggs  is  to 
be  added  last. 

In  adding  liquors  or  acids  of  any  kind  they  must  be  added 
at  last  and  gradually,  or  it  will  curdle  the  milk  and  eggs. 

Be  sure  and  secure  eggs  and  other  ingredients  perfectly  fresh, 
as  one  bad  article  will  surely  taint  the  others,  and  spoil  your 
pudding. 

The  yolk  and  white  of  eggs  should  always  be  beaten  separ- 
ately. 

In  making  rice,  tapioca  and  other  cereal  food  puddings  be 
sure  and  beat  the  eggs  very  light,  and  mix  it  with  a  little  of  the 
milk  before  adding  in  the  other  articles. 

In  all  custard  puddings  the  sugar  and  yolk  of  eggs  should  be 
first  well  beaten  together  before  adding  the  other  ingredients, 
and  the  beaten  white  of  the  eggs  should  be  added  last. 

When  batter  sticks  to  the  knife  in  cutting,  it  is  because  you 
have  not  used  enough  eggs,  or  worked  it  the  required  time. 

If  your  puddings,  or  dumplings,  or  pastry  have  the  proper 
color  on  the  outside,  but  are  not  sufficiently  done  through,  cover 
with  a  piece  of  white  or  manilla  paper,  which  will  prevent  them 
from  burning  of  scorching. 


Puddings  and  Dumplings.  429 

PUDDINGS. 

English  Plum  Pudding.— One  pound  of  suet,  one  pound  of 
raisins,  one  pound  of  currants,  half  a  pound  of  rolled  crackers, 
half  a  pound  of  sifted  flour,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one-quarter  of  a 
pound  of  citron  cut  very  fine,  half  tumblerful  brandy,  half  tumbler- 
ful sherry  wine,  ten  eggs  well  beaten,  two  teaspoonfuls  (small) 
salt,  one  teaspoonful  ground  cinnamon,  one  teaspoonful  nutmeg, 
half  teaspoonful  allspice,  half  teaspoonful  cloves,  peel  of  one 
lemon  grated. 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  dry,  then  add  the  eggs,  wine 
and  brandy  the  last  thing  before  turning  into  a  buttered  bowl 
which  will  just  hold  the  pudding,  Tie  a  stout  cloth  tightly  over 
the  basin  and  plunge  into  a  large  kettle  of  boiling  water.  Boil 
six  hours.  The  water  must  not  be  allowed  to  stop  boiling  one 
moment.  The  basin  must  have  a  rim  to  hold  the  cloth  firmly ; 
wring  the  cloth  out  of  cold  water  and  flour  it  well  before  using. 
Pour  brandy  over  the  pudding  and  bring  to  the  table  in  a  blaze 
of  flame. 

Suet  Pudding. — Ten  eggs,  one  pound  of  flour,  one-half 
pound  of  suet,  one  pound  of  raisins,  one  nutmeg.  Thin  it  with 
milk.  The  great  art  is  in  boiling  without  stopping.  Tie  it 
up,  allowing  a  little  space  to  swell,  and  boil  five  hours.  Serve 
with  a  rich  wine  sance. 

Apple  Snow. — Put  twelve  good  tart  apples  in  cold  water,  and 
set  them  over  a  slow  fire  ;  when  soft,  drain  off  the  water,  strip 
the  skins  off  the  apples,  core  them  and  lay  them  in  a  deep  dish. 
Beat  the  whites  of  twelve  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  put  one-half  pound 
of  powdered  white  sugar  to  the  apples,  beat  them  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  add  the  beaten  eggs.  Beat  the  whole  to  a  stiff  snow,  then 
turn  it  into  a  dessert  dish. 

Apple  Soufflee. — Peel  and  cut  two  pounds  of  good  apples ; 
stew  till  tender,  with  four  ounces  of  loaf  sugar.  With  the  yolks 


43  o  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified, 

of  six  eggs  make  a  custard,  adding  two  ounces  of  powdered 
sugar  and  one  pint  of  boiling  milk.  Let  this  get  firm  by  putting 
it  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water  and  steaming  it.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  six  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  with  a  little  powdered  sugar.  Mix 
your  apples  and  custard,  put  the  whites  on  top,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Cherry  Pudding. — One  pint  of  bread  crumbs,  one  cup  of 
sugar,  four  eggs,  a  quart  of  milk,  grated  lemon  rind,  a  little  pow- 
dered cinnamon,  and  salt.  Mix  thoroughly,  butter  a  mold,  and 
spread  in  a  thick  layer  of  the  preparation  and  then  a  layer  of 
cherries,  then  another  layer  of  bread,  etc.,  and  one  of  cherries 
alternately  until  it  is  filled.  Close  tight,  and  steam  for  two 
hours.  Eat  with  sweet  liquid  sauce.  Blackberries  may  be  used 
instead  of  cherries. 

Steamed  Fig  Pudding. — Moisten  two  cupfuls  of  finely  grated 
Graham  bread  crumbs  with  half  a  cup  of  thin  sweet  cream.  Mix 
into  it  a  heaping  cupful  of  finely  chopped  fresh  figs,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  cup  of  sugar.  Add  lastly  a  cup  of  sweet  milk.  Turn  all 
into  a  pudding  dish,  and  steam  about  two  and  one-half  hours. 
Serve  as  soon  as  done,  with  a  little  cream  for  dressing,  or  with 
orange  or  lemon  sauce. 

Blackberry  or  Whortleberry  Pudding. — Three  cupfuls  of 
flour,  one  cupful  of  molasses,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  a  little  cloves  and  cinnamon,  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  dis- 
solved in  a  little  of  the  milk.  Stir  in  a  quart  of  huckleberries 
floured.  Boil  in  a  well-buttered  mold  two  hours.  Serve  with 
brandy  sauce. 

Blueberry  Pudding. — One  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
milk,  one  egg,  one  pint  of  the  berries,  butter  of  the  size  of  an 
egg,  one  and  one  half  pints  of  flour,  one  large  teaspoonful  cf 
cream  of  tartar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Baked  Huckleberry  Pudding. —  Four  cups  of  ripe,  fresh 
huckleberries  or  blueberries  ;  half  a  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg,  three 


Puddings  and  Dumplings.  431 

eggs  well  beaten,  separately ;  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  cold  butter ;  one  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  one  pint  of 
flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder.  Roll  the  berries  well 
in  the  flour,  and  add  them  last  of  all.  Bake  half  an  hour  and 
serve  with  sauce.  There  is  no  more  delicate  and  delicious  pud- 
ding than  this. 

Indian  Fruit  Pudding. — Make  a  batter  of  a  pint  of  hot  milk 
and  enough  corn-meal  to  make  it  stiff,  add  a  little  molasses  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt ;  then  mix  in  a  pint  of  sweet  apples  chopped, 
or  a  pint  of  huckleberries.  Tie  it  in  a  wet  cloth,  leaving  room 
for  it  to  swell,  put  it  in  boiling  water,  boil  three  hours  and  serve 
with  sweet  sauce. 

Bice  Cream  Pudding. — Take  one  cup  of  good  well-washed 
rice,  one  scant  cup  of  sugar,  and  eight  cups  of  new  milk,  with  a 
little  grated  lemon  rind  for  flavoring.  Put  all  into  an  earthen 
pudding  dish,  and  place  on  the  top  of  the  range.  Heat  very 
slowly  until  the  milk  is  boiling,  stirring  frequently,  so  that  the 
rice  shall  not  adhere  to  the  bottom  of  the  dish.  Then  put  into  a 
moderately  hot  oven  and  bake,  without  stirring,  till  the  rice  is 
perfectly  tender,  which  can  be  ascertained  by  dipping  a  spoon  in 
one  side  and  taking  out  a  few  grains.  It  should  be,  when  cold, 
of  a  rich  cream  consistency,  with  each  grain  of  rice  whole. 
Serve  cold.  It  is  best  if  made  the  day  before  it  is  needed.  If 
preferred,  the  milk  may  be  first  flavored  with  cocoanut. 

Rice  Pudding  with  Raisins. — Wash  thoroughly  one-half 
cup  of  rice,  and  soak  for  two  hours  in  warm  water.  Drain  off 
the  water,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one-half  cup  of  raisins, 
and  four  cups  of  milk.  Put  in  an  earthen  pudding  dish  and  cook 
for  two  hours  in  a  moderate  oven,  stirring  once  or  twice  before 
the  rice  begins  to  swell ;  then  add  a  cup  of  hot  milk  and  cook  for 
an  hour  longer. 

Baked  Lemon  Pudding.— An  under  crust  of  pastry  ;  stir  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs  with  one  cup  of  powdered  sugar  till  very  light, 


432  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  milk,  butter  of  the  size  of  a  black  walnut, 
one  teaspoonful  of  sifted  flour,  grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  large 
lemon.  Bake  the  pudding,  and  when  cold  put  on  the  top  of  it 
the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Add  fine  sugar 
while  beating.  Put  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

Snow  Pudding.— Take  half  a  pound  of  the  pulp  of  roasted 
apples  carefully  separated  from  the  skin  and  core,  half  a  pound 
of  powdered  lump  sugar,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs.  First  beat 
the  eggs  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  then  by  degrees  add  first  the  sugar 
and  then  the  apples ;  beat  all  together  for  an  hour,  until,  when 
taken  up  in  the  spoon,  it  stands  quite  stiff.  With  the  yolks  of  the 
two  eggs  make  a  sweet  custard  for  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and 
build  the  snow  up  by  spoonfuls  to  any  height  you  please.  Savoy 
cakes  and  sweetmeat  likewise  laid  in  the  dish  are  an  improvement. 

Plum  Pudding  Glace. — Make  a  rich  custard  with  cream  or 
rich  milk,  put  into  it  a  glass  of  noyeau,  a  little  brandy,  some 
ginger  and  ginger  syrup,  and  citron  cut  very  small.  Freeze. 

Cottage  Pudding. — Two  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
one  cupful  of  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
cream  of  tartar,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  two  eggs. 

Plum  Pudding  with  Snow. — Mix- together  a  pound  and  a 
quarter  of  flour,  half  a  pint  of  sweet  cream,  a  pound  of  stoned 
raisins,  four  ounces  of  currants,  four  ounces  of  mashed  potatoes, 
five  ounces  of  brown  sugar,  and  a  gill  of  milk.  Work  thoroughly 
together,  season  it,  mix  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  clear  snow  very 
quickly  throughout  the  mass;  put  the  pudding  in  a  bag  and  boil 
four  hours.  Two  tablespoonfuls  of  snow  are  equal  to  an  egg  in 
any  pudding. 

Birds'  Nest  Pudding. — Pare  and  core  eight  or  nine  medium- 
sized  apples,  put  in  a  pan  ;  fill  the  places  from  which  the  cores 
have  been  taken  with  sugar  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg ;  cover 
and  bake.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  light,  add  two  teacupfuls 
of  flour  with  three  even  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder  sifted  with 


Puddings  and  Dumplings.  433 

it,  one  pint  of  milk  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  then  add  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  well  beaten,  pour  over  the  apples,  and  bake  one  hour 
in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  with  a  nice  sauce. 

Jam  Pudding. — Make  a  jam  by  mashing  well  some  fresh 
raspberries  or  blueberries  and  sweetening  to  taste.  Spread  over 
slices  of  fresh  light  bread  or  buns,  and  pile  in  layers  one  above 
another  in  a  pudding  dish.  Pour  over  the  layers  enough  rich 
milk  or  thin  cream,  heated  to  scalding,  to  moisten  the  whole. 
Turn  a  plate  over  the  pudding,  place  a  weight  upon  it,  and  press 
lightly  till  cold.  Cut  in  slices,  and  serve  with  or  without  a  cream 
dressing. 

Cabinet  Pudding. — Butter  well  the  inside  of  a  pudding 
mold.  Have  ready  a  cupful  of  chopped  citron,  raisins  and  cur- 
rants. Sprinkle  some  of  this  fruit  on  the  bottom  of  the  mold, 
then  slices  of  stale  sponge  cake  ;  shake  over  this  some  spices — 
cinnamon,  cloves  and  nutmeg — then  fruit  again,  then  cake,  until 
the  mold  is  nearly  full.  Make  a  custard  of  a  quart  of  milk,  four 
eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter ;  pour 
this  over  the  cake,  without  cooking  it ;  let  it  stand  and  soak  one 
hour ;  then  steam  one  hour  and  a  half.  Serve  with  wine  sauce 
or  a  custard.  Season  with.  wine. 

Sponge  Pudding. — Quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  flour.  Stir  them  in  a  quart  of  sweet  milk,  stirring 
constantly  until  it  boils.  Add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter. 
Cool  it.  Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  twelve  eggs  separately, 
add  them,  with  a  little  salt,  and  bake  in  a  dish  of  water  till  done. 
This  makes  two  common-sized  baking  tins  full.  One-half  the 
above  rule  by  measure :  One-half  cupful  of  flour,  one-half  cup- 
ful of  sugar,  one-half  cupful  of  butter,  five  eggs,  one  pint  of  sweet 
milk,  a  little  salt. 

Queen  of  Puddings.— One  pint  of  bread  crumbs,  one  quart 
of  milk,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  butter  of  the  size  of  an  egg,  four 
eggs.  Flavor.  After  the  pudding  is  baked  spread  preserves 


434  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

over  the  top,  and  upon  them  the  beaten  whites  of  the  above  four 
eggs,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  pulverized  sugar.  Serve  with  sweet 
cream. 

Custard  Pudding. — Make  a  custard  of  one  quart  of  milk  and 
two  eggs,  flavor  to  taste,  and  put  into  a  baking  dish.  Spread 
thick  slices  of  bread  with  butter,  sufficient  to  cover  the  top  of  the 
dish.  Bake  until  the  custard  thickens.  Buttered  side  of  bread 
to  be  placed  up. 

Chocolate  Pudding. — One  quart  of  milk,  three  ounces  of 
grated  chocolate.  Scald  the  milk  and  chocolate  together.  When 
cool,  add  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  and  one  cupful  of  sugar.  Bake 
about  twenty-five  minutes.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  for  the 
top.  Brown  in  the  oven.  To  be  eaten  cold. 


DUMPLINGS. 

Preserve  Dumplings. — Make  a  light  biscuit  crust,  and  roll 
it  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick ;  cut  it  in  five-inch  squares, 
lay  a  tablespoonful  of  preserves  in  the  center,  and  fold  the  crust 
over  it;  tie  each  one  in  a  dumpling  cloth,  having  it  well  floured 
on  the  inside  ;  put  them  in  boiling  water  and  boil  thirty  minutes. 
Serve  hot  with  cream.  Preserved  peaches,  plums,  cherries  or 
any  fruit  preserves  can  be  used  this  way. 

Boiled  Apple  Dumplings. — Select  apples  that  will  cook 
quickly,  pare  and  core  them,  leaving  the  apple  whole.  Prepare 
a  plain  paste,  roll  the  crust  about  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  cover 
each  apple  with  it,  and  then  steam  them  about  an  hour ;  if  you 
boil  them  instead  of  steaming  them,  make  the  paste  of  suet,  put 
them  in  boiling  water,  and  boil  an  hour. 

Little  Currant  Dumplings. — A  pint  of  flour,  quarter  pound 
of  fresh  beef  suet  chopped  fine,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter 
pound  of  Zante  Currants  picked  clean,  one  egg,  and  milk  or 


Puddings  and  Dumplings.  435 

water  enough  to  mix  to  the  consistency  of  drop  biscuit  Boil 
in  dumpling  cloths  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  a  tablespoonful  to 
a  dumpling.  Serve  with  sauce. 

Lemon  Dumplings. — Take  two  cups  of  grated  bread  crumbs, 
half  a  cupful  of  chopped  suet,  half  a  cupful  of  moist  sugar,  a  little 
salt,  and  a  small  tablespoonful  of  flour,  adding  the  grated  rind  of 
a  lemon.  Moisten  it  all  with  the  whites  and  yolks  of  two  eggs 
well  beaten,  and  the  juice  of  the  lemon  strained.  Stir  it  all  well 
together,  and  put  the  mixture  into  small  cups  well  buttered ;  tie 
them  down  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  flour,  and  boil  three-quarters 
of  an  hour.  Turn  them  out  on  a  dish,  strew  sifted  sugar  over 
them,  and  serve  with  wine  sauce. 

Boiled  Rice  Dumplings. — After  boiling  one  cup  of  rice, 
drain  and  mash  it  moderately  fine.  Add  to  it  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  one-third  of  a  cup  of  sugar,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  mixed 
ground  spice,  salt  and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Moisten  a  little 
with  a  tablespoonful  or  two  of  cream.  With  floured  hands  shape 
the  mixture  into  balls,  and  tie  them  in  floured  pudding  cloths. 
Steam  or  boil  forty-five  minutes,  and  send  to  table  with  some 
nice  sauce. 


SAUCES  FOR  PUDDINGS. 


Punch  Sauce. — Six  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  two 
ounces  of  rum,  the  grated  rind  of  half  an  orange,  one  teaspoonful 
of  vanilla  flavoring.  Mix  the  above  in  a  pan,  and  as  soon  as  the 
liquid  catches  flame,  put  on  the  lid  of  pan  and  allow  it  to  remain 
for  one  minute.  Then  take  pan  from  stove,  squeeze  the  juice  of 
one  nice  orange,  strain  all  in  dish,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

Brandy  or  Wine  Sauce. — Take  one  cupful  butter,  two  cup- 
fuls  of  powdered  sugar,  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  five  tablespoonfuls 
of  sherry  wine  or  brandy,  and  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  boiling 
water.  Beat  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  whites  of  the 
eggs»  one  at  a  time,  unbeaten,  and  then  the  wine  or  brandy. 
Place  the  bowl  in  hot  water,  and  stir  till  smooth  and  frothy. 

Rose  Cream. — Remove  the  thick  cream  from  the  top  of  a 
pan  of  cold  milk,  taking  care  not  to  take  up  any  of  the  milk. 
Add  sugar  to  sweeten  and  a  teaspoonful  or  two  of  rose  water. 
Beat  with  an  egg  beater  until  the  whole  mass  is  thick.  Good 
thick  cream,  beaten  in  this  manner,  makes  nearly  double  its 
quantity. 

Bum  Sauce. — Put  in  a  saucepan  one  cupful  of  water  with 
one-half  cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  and  place  it  on  the  stove, 
adding  a  teaspoonful  of  caramel ;  when  boiling  add  half  an  ounce 
of  corn-starch,  diluted  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water,  stir 
well,  and  let  cook  for  two  minutes.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and 
add  immediately  four  tablespoonfuls  of  Jamaica  rum,  mixing 
well,  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  bowl. 

Wine  and  Fruit  Sauce. — Put  into  a  saucepan  half  a  cupful 


Sauces  for  Puddings.  437 

of  apricot  marmalade,  with  one  third  of  a  cupful  of  cold  water ; 
place  it  on  the  fire,  and  stir  until  boiling ;  then  take  it  off,  and 
add  immediately  one  cupful  of  Tokay  wine,  stirring  thoroughly 
for  a  moment  or  so.  Strain  through  a  sieve  over  the  pudding, 
and  serve. 

Lemon  Brandy  Sauce. — Fill  a  pint  fruit  jar  with  the  rinds  of 
fresh  lemons,  and  cover  same  with  the  best  brandy.  In  about 
three  weeks  strain  off  the  liquor,  and  seal  tight  until  needed. 

Creme  a  la  Yanilla  Sauce.— Take  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
and  put  in  a  small  vessel,  and  mix  with  two  ounces  powdered 
sugar,  one  ounce  of  flour  and  a  piece  of  vanilla  bean  the  size 
of  a  lima  bean ;  beat  well  together  with  egg  beater  for  two  or 
three  minutes,  and  pour  this  all  into  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  and 
beat  again  briskly  with  the  beater  until  it  boils  once  more ;  then 
remove  from  fire,  and  add  one-half  gill  of  maraschino  ;  beat  again 
for  one  minute,  after  which  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Egg  Sauce. — Beat  the  white  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
stir  in  very  gently  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  one  cupful  of 
powdered  sugar ;  then  stir  in  carefully  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs, 
and  serve. 

Orange  Sauce. — Put  in  a  saucepan  four  egg  yolks  with  four 
ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  and  stir  with  a  spatula  until  it  becomes 
a  whitish  color.  Add  two  gills  of  sweet  cream,  little  by  little, 
beating  continually,  then  grate  in  the  rind  of  an  orange.  Place 
the  pan  on  a  slow  stove,  and  stir  well  for  four  minutes,  being 
careful  not  to  let  it  boil ;  take  it  off,  strain  through  a  sieve  over 
the  pudding,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Madeira  Sauce. — Put  in  a  saucepan  four  egg  yolks  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar;  place  it  on  a  hot  stove,  and 
with  a  wire  whip  stir  well  for  two  minutes.  Drop  in  gradually 
one  cupful  of  madeira  wine ;  stir  continually  for  two  minutes ; 
take  from  the  fire,  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  over  the 
pudding. 


438  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Lemon  Pudding  Sauce.— Heat  to  boiling,  in  a  double  boiler, 
a  pint  of  water  in  which  are  two  slices  of  lemon,  and  stir  into  it  a 
dessertspoonful  of  corn-starch;  cook  four  or  five  minutes,  or 
until  it  thickens.  Squeeze  the  juice  from  one  large  lemon,  and 
mix  it  with  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Add  this  to  the 
corn-starch  mixture,  and  allow  the  whole  to  boil  up  once,  stirring 
constantly;  then  take  from  the  fire.  Leave  in  the  double  boiler, 
surrounded  by  the  hot  water,  for  ten  minutes.  Cool  to  blood 
heat  before  serving. 

Apricot  Sauce. — Place  one-half  cupful  of  apricot  marmalade 
into  a  saucepan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  fresh  butter  and  half  a 
cupful  of  water ;  set  it  on  the  hot  stove,  and  stir  briskly  with  the 
spatula  until  it  comes  to  a  boil,  then  take  from  the  fire  and  add 
immediately  a  gill  of  good  brandy,  mixing  again  with  the  spatula 
for  one  minute  more ;  then  pour  the  sauce  over  the  boiled  apple 
dumplings,  and  serve. 

Bed  Sauce. — Pare  and  slice  a  large  red  beet,  and  simmer 
gently  in  three  cupfuls  of  water  for  twenty  minutes,  or  until  the 
water  is  rose  colored ;  then  add  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  the  thin 
yellow  rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  boil  until  the  whole  is 
thick  syrup.  Strain,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  rose  water  or  vanilla, 
and  serve. 

Cherry  Sauce. — Take  ripe  cherries,  mash  them  with  the  meat 
of  the  pits  in  their  own  juice  until  tender,  pulp  through  a  sieve 
all  that  will  pass,  add  wine  and  sugar,  and  spice  if  desired,  and 
boil  until  it  is  of  the  consistency  of  thick  cream. 

Fruit  Sauce. — Heat  a  pint  of  red  raspberry,  currant,  grape, 
strawberry,  apricot  or  any  other  fruit  juice  to  scalding,  and  stir 
in  a  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch  previously  rubbed  to  a  cream 
with  a  little  cold  water.  Cook  till  it  thickens ;  then  add  sugar 
according  to  the  acidity  of  the  fruit.  Strain  and  cool  before  using. 
If  fruit  juice  is  not  available,  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  pure 
fruit  jelly  may  be  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  hot  water  and  used  in- 


Sauces  for  Puddings.  439 

stead  of  the  juice.  A  mixture  of  red  and  black  raspberry  juice, 
or  currant  and  raspberry,  will  be  found  very  nice. 

Sweet  Liquid  Sauce. — One  tablespoonful  of  flour  mixed 
smooth  with  cold  water,  a  pinch  of  salt,  piece  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  hickory  nut,  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  a  little  maple  or  other 
syrup.  Stir  into  this  mixture  hot  water  enough  to  make  a  pint 
bowl  of  sauce  ;  boil  all  up,  and  grate  in  lastly  a  little  nutmeg. 

Fruit  Cream. — Take  the  juice  pressed  from  a  cupful  of  fresh 
strawberries,  red  raspberries,  or  black  caps,  add  to  it  one-third 
of  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  place  in  the  ice  chest  till  chilled.  Set  a 
cup  of  sweet  cream  also  on  ice  till  very  cold.  When  thoroughly 
cold  whip  with  an  egg  beater  till  the  froth  begins  to  rise,  then 
add  to  it  the  cold  fruit  juice  and  beat  again.  Have  ready  the 
white  of  one  egg  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  which  add  to  the  fruit 
cream,  and  whip  till  no  more  froth  will  rise.  This  makes  a  nice 
sauce  for  all  cereal  food  puddings  and  dumplings  and  blanc- 
manges. You  can  use  the  juices  of  other  fruits  prepared  in  the 
same  manner. 

Almond  Sauce. — Heat  a  pint  of  rich  milk  in  the  inner  cup  of 
a  double  boiler,  placed  directly  upon  the  stove.  When  the  milk 
is  boiling,  stir  into  it  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour  which  has 
been  rubbed  to  a  cream  in  a  little  cold  milk.  Boil  rapidly  until 
thickened,  stirring  constantly ;  then  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
almondine ;  place  in  the  outer  boiler,  and  cook  for  five  or  ten 
minutes  longer. 

Lemon  Sauce. — One  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  butter, 
one  egg  beaten  light,  juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon,  half  a 
cupful  of  boiling  water  ;  put  in  a  tin  basin  and  thicken  over  steam. 

Caramel  Sauce. — Stir  a  cup  of  sugar  in  a  saucepan  over  the 
fire  until  melted  and  lightly  browned.  Add  one  cup  of  boiling 
water,  and  simmer  ten  minutes. 

Custard  Sauce. — One  cupful  of  sugar,  two  beaten  eggs,  one 
pint  of  milk,  flavoring  to  taste,  brandy  or  wine  if  preferred.  Heat 


44°  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

the  milk  to  boiling,  add  by  degrees  the  beaten  eggs  and  sugar, 
put  in  the  flavoring,  and  set  within  a  pan  of  boiling  water ;  stir 
until  it  begins  to  thicken  ;  then  take  it  off,  and  stir  in  the  brandy 
or  wine  gradually  ;  set  until  wanted  within  a  pan  of  boiling  water. 

Pudding  Sauce. — One  coffeecupful  of  powdered  sugar  and  a 
piece  of  butter  of  the  size  of  a  large  egg,  beaten  well  together. 
Then  add  a  well-beaten  egg  and  a  teaspoonful  of  flour.  Then 
boil  wine  according  to  judgment,  turn  into  the  above,  and  pour 
from  one  bowl  to  another  until  it  foams. 

Hard  Sauce. — This  is  made  simply  by  stirring  together  to  a 
light  cream  two  cups  of  pounded  loaf  sugar  to  half  of  a  large  cup 
of  sweet  butter.  It  may  be  flavored  according  to  taste.  For 
cream  and  plain  batter  pudding  it  may  be  thinned  with  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  boiling  water  and  flavored  with  vanilla.  Nutmeg  is 
the  best  flavor  for  apple  pudding.  For  rice  puddings  a  little 
lemon  juice  or  wine  may  be  added. 

Milk  Sauce. — Mix  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  in  cold  milk;  see 
that  it  is  free  from  lumps.  Stir  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a 
cupful  of  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  to  it  a  pinch  of  salt.  Mix 
together  half  a  pint  of  milk,  one  egg,  and  the  flour;  stir  this  into 
the  butter,  and  add  a  dash  of  nutmeg  or  any  flavor;  heat  until 
near  the  boiling  point,  and  serve.  Very  nice  in  place  of  cold 
cream. 

Jelly  Sauce. — Dissolve  one  ounce  of  sugar  and  four  ounces 
of  jelly  over  the  fire  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  adding  also 
two  tablespoon fuls  of  butter ;  then  stir  into  it  a  teaspoonful  of 
corn-starch,  dissolved  in  half  a  cupful  of  water  or  wine  ;  add  it  to 
the  jelly,  and  let  it  come  to  a  boil.  Set  it  in  a  dish  of  hot  water 
to  keep  it  warm  until  time  to  serve  ;  stir  occasionally.  Any  fruit 
jelly  can  be  used. 

Sago  Sauce. — Wash  one  tablespoonful  of  sago  in  two  or  three 
waters,  then  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  three-fourths  of  a  cup  of 
hot  water,  and  some  bits  of  lemon  peel.  Simmer  gently  for  ten 


Sauces  for  Puddings.  441 

minutes,  take  out  the  lemon  peel,  add  half  a  cup  of  quince  or 
apricot  juice — and,  if  the  latter,  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon 
— and  sugar  to  taste.  Beat  together  thoroughly. 

Royal  Pudding  Sauce. — Beat  up,  as  for  hard  sauce,  white 
sugar  with  butter  until  very  light,  in  the  proportion  of  half  a  cup 
of  butter  to  one  of  sugar ;  flavor  with  the  essence  of  lemon  or 
bitter  almonds.  Fifteen  minutes  before  serving,  set  the  bowl  in 
a  pan  of  hot  water  on  the  range  and  stir  it  till  hot.  It  will  raise 
in  a  white  foam  to  the  top  of  the  bowl. 

Whipped  Cream  Sauce.— Beat  together  until  of  a  stiff  froth 
one  cup  of  sweet  cream  which  has  been  cooled  in  a  refrigerator, 
one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  a  little  grated  lemon  rind,  and  one- 
half  cup  of  powdered  white  sugar,  and  the  whites  of  one  or  two 
eggs.  The  sauce  may  be  variously  flavored  with  a  little  fruit 
jelly  beaten  with  the  egg  before  adding  to  the  cream. 

Cream  Sauce. — Beat  together  well  one  teacupful  sugar,  one 
egg,  one  tablespoonful  of  rich  cream ;  moisten  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  corn-starch  with  a  little  milk,  and  stir  in  with  the  mixture ; 
then  add  five  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  milk,  stirring  rapidly  all 
the  time.  Pour  into  the  inner  cup  of  a  double  boiler ;  have  the 
water  in  the  outer  cup  boiling,  and  cook  five  minutes.  Flavor  to 
taste. 


CUSTARDS,  CREAMS,  AND  FANCY  DESSERTS. 


In  order  to  insure  success  in  the  making  of  custards,  great 
care  should  be  exercised  in  having  all  the  ingredients  in  a  fresh 
state.  In  the  baking  of  custards  a  moderate  heat  should  only  be 
used,  and  the  dish  should  be  well  buttered. 

It  is  best  to  place  the  custard  in  an  earthen  dish  and  set  same 
in  vessel  partly  filled  with  hot  water  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
done.  A  dripping  pan  containing  hot  water  will  answer. 

It  is  best  to  mix  a  level  tablespoonful  of  sifted  flour  with  the 
sugar  first,  before  putting  in  the  other  ingredients. 

Three  or  four  eggs  to  each  pint  of  milk  is  the  general  rule,  as 
followed  by  the  best  housekeepers.  In  case  you  desire  the  custard 
very  rich,  cream  should  be  used  instead  of  milk,  and  more  eggs 
must  be  used.  A  small  lump  of  butter  can  also  be  added. 

In  adding  beaten  eggs  into  hot  milk,  add  a  little  cold  milk  to 
the  eggs  first  and  then  stir  this  into  the  hot  milk  a  little  at  a  time, 
stirring  constantly. 

The  yolks  of  the  eggs  should  be  first  beaten  separately,  then 
the  sugar  should  be  added,  and  this  again  beaten  well.  Then  add 
the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs  and  the  flavoring,  and  add  all  a 
little  at  a  time  into  the  milk,  stirring  constantly. 

If  you  desire  to  impart  a  nice  flavor  to  the  custards  and 
meringues,  beat  a  little  fruit  jelly  with  the  white  of  the  eggs. 

Custard. — Use  about  four  eggs  to  a  pint  of  rich  new  milk. 
Flavor  the  milk  by  putting  six  young  laurel  leaves  or  grated 
lemon  peel  into  it,  before  beginning  to  make  the  custard,  and 


Custards,  Creams  and  Fancy  Desserts.  443 

leaving  them  in  until  it  is  done ;  sweeten  the  milk  with  an  ounce 
or  more  of  sugar,  according  to  taste.  Beat  up  the  eggs  thoroughly 
with  sugar  and  add  the  milk  to  it  boiling  hot.  Place  all  in  the 
saucepan  and  stir  it  over  a  slow  fire  until  it  begins  to  thicken. 
Then  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  continue  stirring  it  until  it  is 
of  exactly  the  right  thickness.  Turn  it  out  immediately  and 
keep  stirring  it  until  it  is  cool. 

Raspberry  Custard. — Take  three  gills  of  raspberry  juice  and 
dissolve  in  it  a  pound  of  white  sugar,  mix  it  with  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing cream,  stir  until  quite  thick,  and  serve  in  custard  glasses. 

Apple  Custard. — Pare  and  remove  the  cores  from  a  dozen 
tart  apples,  and  fill  the  cavities  with  black  raspberry,  quince  or 
grape  jelly.  Put  them  in  a  covered  baking  dish  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  water,  and  steam  in  the  oven  till  tender  but  not  fallen  to  pieces. 
Then  cover  the  apples  with  a  raw  custard  made  by  cooking  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour  rubbed  smooth  with  a  little  milk,  in  a 
quart  of  milk,  till  just  thickened,  and  adding,  when  cold,  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  well  beaten  with  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar,  and  lastly,  the  whites  of  the  eggs  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth. 
Bake  in  a  dish  set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  until  the  custard  has  set, 
but  not  till  it  separates. 

Almond  Custard. — Take  one  pint  of  rich  milk,  one  pint  of 
cream,  half  a  pound  of  shelled  sweet  almonds,  two  ounces  of 
shelled  bitter  almonds,  four  spoonfuls  of  rose  water,  four  ounces 
of  white  sugar,  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  a  little  oil  of  lemon. 
Blanch  the  almonds,  and  pound  them  to  a  paste,  mixing  the  rose 
water  gradually  with  them.  Powder  the  sugar,  and  beat  the 
yolks  till  very  light.  Mix  the  milk  and  cream  together,  and  stir 
in  gradually  the  sugar,  the  pounded  almonds,  and  the  beaten  yolks. 
Stir  the  whole  very  hard.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  skillet  or 
saucepan,  and  set  it  in  a  heated  stove  or  on  a  charcoal  furnace.  Stir 
it  one  way  until  it  becomes  thick,  but  take  it  off  before  it  curdles. 
Set  it  away  to  get  cold.  Take  half  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beat 


444  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

them  well,  adding  a  little  powdered  sugar  and  a  few  drops  of  oil 
of  lemon.  Put  the  custard  into  a  glass  bowl  or  dish,  and  heap 
the  frothed  white  of  an  egg  upon  it.  Ornament  the  top  with 
nonpareils,  or  sugar  sand ;  or  put  the  custard  in  small  cups, 
piling  some  froth  on  each. 

Steamed  Custard. — Four  eggs  beaten  hard  with  sugar,  and 
one  quart  of  new  milk ;  stir  well,  strain  through  a  muslin,  fill 
your  cups,  and  steam  them.  When  done,  grate  a  little  nutmeg 
on  the  top,  and  set  them  to  get  very  cold  before  serving. 

Coffee  Custard.— Boil  two  ounces  of  burnt  whole  coffee  in 
one  quart  of  milk  for  twenty  minutes,  keeping  it  covered  to 
preserve  the  aroma.  A  piece  of  lemon  peel  added  is  an  improve- 
ment. Strain  it  several  times  through  a  fine  sieve  and  sweeten 
it.  If  to  boil,  stir  in  six  beaten  eggs  and  strain,  and  put  over 
the  fire  to  cook  until  it  thickens,  not  boils.  If  to  bake,  use  five 
eggs,  put  in  a  dish  or  cups  to  bake,  and  eat  cold. 

Caramel  Custard. — Put  a  small  cupful  of  brown  sugar  in  a 
tin  pan,  and  burn  it  to  a  dark  brown,  but  do  not  let  it  scorch. 
Make  a  soft  custard,  and  while  boiling  hot,  pour  it  on  the  burnt 
sugar,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  A  teacupful  of  sugar 
is  enough  for  three  pints  of  custard. 

Lemon  Custard. — Beat  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  till  they  are 
white,  pour  on  them  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  add  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  sweeten  to  taste,  then  add  one  glass  of 
madeira  wine  or  half  a  glass  of  brandy.  Then  scald  it  over  the 
fire  until  it  thickens.  When  cool  put  in  glass  cups.  To  be  eaten 
cold. 

Snow  Balls. — Take  ten  eggs;  beat  the  whites  of  five  to  a 
stiff  froth  ;  break  the  other  five  eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  add  the 
yolks  of  the  first  five  to  the  same ;  add  white  sugar  sufficient  to 
sweeten  the  whole.  Put  two  quarts  of  new  milk  on  the  stove, 
and  when  it  boils  place  the  beaten  whites  carefully  on  the  milk, 
and  let  it  boil  one  minute ;  then  skim  the  whites  carefully  into 


Custards,   Creams  and  Fancy  Desserts.  445 

a  dish.  Beat  the  other  eggs  with  sugar  very  thoroughly  to- 
gether, flavor  with  vanilla,  and  stir  this  into  the  scalding  milk 
till  it  begins  to  thicken  ;  then  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  pan, 
after  which  pour  this  custard  into  your  dish,  and  cut  the  whites 
into  small  squares  and  place  them  on  the  top  of  the  custard. 

Tapioca  Cream. — Set  one  cupful  of  washed  tapioca,  with 
enough  water  to  cover  it,  on  the  stove  till  swollen.  Then  pour  on 
one  quart  of  milk  and  let  it  boil.  Stir  in  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
well  beaten.  Sweeten  and  flavor  with  lemon.  Beat  the  whites 
to  a  stiff  froth ;  and  when  the  tapioca  is  cooked,  stir  them  in 
quickly.  Eat,  when  cold,  with  sweetmeats  or  berries. 

Chocolate  Custard  or  Cream. — Beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs. 
Add  one  cupful  of  fine  white  sugar.  Dissolve  one-quarter  of  a 
pound  of  chocolate  in  one-half  pint  of  hot  water.  Add  one  and 
one-half  pint  of  cream  or  rich  milk.  Give  it  one  boil  and  turn  it 
on  the  eggs,  stirring  it  all  the  time.  Then  put  it  in  a  pitcher ; 
put  the  pitcher  in  boiling  water,  stirring  the  custard  constantly 
till  it  thickens.  To  be  served  in  glasses  or  cups,  and  eaten  cold. 
The  whites  may  be  used  to  ornament  the  custard.  Make  a 
meringue  and  brown  it  in  the  oven,  and  then  put  a  spoonful  on 
each ;  or  boil  milk,  and  drop  the  whites  on  it  until  they  harden. 
Put  a  spoonful  on  each.  The  custards  are  Very  fine  and  rich 
without  ornament. 

Charlotte  Busse. — One  pint  of  milk,  one  pint  of  cream,  one 
small  paper  of  Cooper's  gelatine,  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine 
sugar,  four  eggs.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  the  milk.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar  together,  and  mix  them  with  milk. 
When  it  is  cold,  beat  up  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  add  them. 
Beat  up  cream,  sweeten  and  put  essence  of  vanilla  in  it,  then  mix 
it  up  with  the  rest.  Put  this  into  a  Charlotte  Russe  pan,  lined 
with  lady  fingers  or  thin  slices  of  sponge  cake.  Turn  it  out 
when  ready  to  serve,  and  put  whipped  cream  on  the  top  of  it. 

Telvet    Cream. — One  pint  of  cream  whipped,  one  teacup- 


446  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

ful  of  white  wine,  one  teacupful  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  isinglass 
in  a  little  milk.  Stir  in  the  sugar  when  nearly  cold,  then  stir 
in  cream,  and  lastly  wine.  Pour  in  molds  and  set  on  ice. 

Lemon  Foam. — Beat  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  with  one-half 
pound  of  sugar,  and  add  the  juice  and  grated  peel  of  three 
lemons.  If  wanted  in  a  form,  take  one-half  ounce  of  gelatine 
dissolved  in  as  small  a  quantity  of  water  as  possible,  simmer 
over  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes  until  the  mixture  begins  to 
thicken,  let  it  stand  until  cool,  then  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  put  all  together  in  your  form.  It  is 
very  nice  flavored  with  vanilla,  or  fresh  orange  may  be  used. 
Dispense  with  the  gelatine  if  you  do  not  wish  it  in  a  form. 

Orange  Soufflee. — Make  a  custard  of  one  quart  of  milk  and 
the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  sweetened  to  taste.  Pour  this,  boiling 
hot,  over  the  grated  rind,  pulp  and  juice  of  four  large  or  six 
small  oranges,  which  have  been  previously  sweetened  a  little  to 
prevent  curdling  the  custard.  Put  this  in  the  oven,  and  bake 
until  stiff  enough  to  hold  the  meringue.  Beat  the  whites  with 
three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  flavor  with  vanilla.  Put 
on  the  meringue  as  roughly  as  possible,  and  set  it  again  in  the 
oven  to  brown  slightly.  If  the  oranges  are  very  juicy,  use  one 
less. 

Chocolate  Mange. — Dissolve  one  box  of  gelatine  in  one  pint 
of  cold  water.  Boil  one  quart  of  milk,  one  pound  of  sugar, 
a  large  coffeecupful  of  grated  chocolate  and  the  gelatine  together 
for  five  minutes,  then  add  one  pint  of  cream.  Flavor  with 
vanilla  and  put  in  molds. 

Cocoanut  Custard. — Flavor  a  pint  of  milk  with  cocoanut,  add 
a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  two  well-beaten  eggs,  and  boil  till 
set  in  a  double  boiler  or  a  bowl  set  in  a  dish  of  boiling  water. 
Richer  custards  may  be  made  by  using  three  or  four  eggs,  but 
the  richer  the  custard  the  more  likely  it  is  to  curdle  and  become 
watery,  as  well  as  being  less  wholesome. 


Custards,   Creams  and  Fancy  Desserts.  447 

•p 
Fruit  Custard. — Heat  a  pint  of  red  raspberry,  strawberry  or 

currant  juice  to  boiling,  and  stir  into  it  two  even  tablespoonfuls 
of  corn-starch  rubbed  smooth  in  a  little  cold  water.  Stir  con- 
stantly until  thickened,  then  add  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  or  less  if  the 
fruit  juice  has  been  sweetened ;  take  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  the 
stiffly  beaten  whites  of  three  eggs,  stirring  all  the  time  so  that  the 
hot  mixture  will  coagulate  the  egg.  Make  a  custard  of  a  pint  of 
milk,  the  yolks  of  the  three  eggs,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar.  When  done,  set  on  the  ice  to  cool.  Dish  in  a  glass  dish 
when  cold,  placing  the  fruit  mixture  by  spoonfuls  on  top,  and 
serve. 

Chocolate  Custard.— Heat  one  quart  of  fresh  milk,  and  when 
nearly  boiling  stir  in  two  ounces  of  grated  chocolate  ;  let  it  warm 
on  the  fire  for  a  few  moments,  and  then  remove  and  cool ;  beat 
the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  and  two  whites  with  eight  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar,  then  pour  the  milk  over  them  ;  flavor  and  bake  as  any 
custard,  either  in  cups  or  a  large  dish.  Make  a  meringue  of  the 
remaining  whites. 

Corn-Starch  Blanc-Mange. — Stir  together  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  corn-starch,  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  the  juice  and  a  little  of  the 
grated  rind  of  one  lemon ;  braid  the  whole  with  cold  water 
enough  to  dissolve  well.  Then  pour  boiling  water  over  the  mix- 
ture, stirring  meanwhile,  until  it  becomes  transparent.  Allow  it 
to  bubble  a  few  minutes  longer,  pour  into  molds,  and  serve  cold 
with  cream  and  sugar. 

Fruit  Blanc-Mange. — Stew  nice  fresh  fruit  (cherries,  rasp- 
berries and  strawberries  being  the  best),  or  canned  ones  will  do ; 
strain  off  the  juice  and  sweeten  to  taste;  place  it  over  the  fire  in 
a  double  kettle  until  it  boils ;  while  boiling,  stir  in  corn-starch 
wet  with  a  little  cold  water,  allowing  two  tablespoonfuls  of  corn - 
starch  to  each  pint  of  juice ;  continue  stirring  until  sufficiently 
cooked ;  then  pour  into  molds  wet  in  cold  water,  and  set  away 
to  cool.  Serve  with  cream  and  sugar. 


448  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

^M 

Orange  Float. — Heat  one  quart  of  water,  the  juice  of  two 
lemons  and  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  sugar.  When  boiling, 
stir  into  it  four  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch  rubbed  smooth  in  a 
very  little  water.  Cook  until  the  whole  is  thickened  and  clear. 
When  cool,  stir  into  the  mixture  five  nice  oranges  which  have 
been  sliced  and  freed  from  seeds  and  all  the  white  portions. 
Meringue,  and  serve  cold. 

Blanc-Mange. — Pour  one  cup  of  boiling  water  over  an  ounce 
of  patent  gelatine  and  boil  until  dissolved,  stirring  constantly. 
Then  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  upon  a  cupful  of  fine  white 
sugar ;  stir  this  into  a  quart  of  rich  cream  and  a  cupful  of  sherry 
wine ;  when  it  is  well  mixed,  add  the  dissolved  gelatine,  stir  all 
well  together,  pour  into  molds  previously  wet  with  cold  water ; 
set  the  molds  upon  ice,  let  them  stand  until  their  contents  are 
hard  and  cold,  then  serve  with  sugar  and  cream  or  a  nice  sauce. 

Tapioca  Blanc-Mange. — One  cup  of  tapioca  soaked  an  hour 
in  two  cups  of  milk  and  boiled  till  tender ;  add  a  pinch  of  salt, 
sweeten  to  taste  and  put  into  a  mold  ;  when  cold,  turn  it  out,  and 
serve  with  fruit  or  berry  jam  around  it  and  a  little  cream.  Flavor 
to  suit'the  taste. 

Fruit  Tapioca. — Cook  three-fourths  of  a  cup  of  tapioca  in 
four  cups  of  water  until  smooth  and  transparent.  Stir  into  it 
lightly  a  pint  of  fresh  strawberries,  raspberries,  currants  or  any 
small  fruit,  adding  sugar  as  required.  For  variety  a  cup  of 
canned  quinces  or  apricots  may  be  substituted  for  fresh  fruit. 
Serve  warm  or  cold  with  whipped  cream  or  mock  cream. 

Tapioca  Custard. — Soak  a  cup  of  tapioca  over  night  in  suffi- 
cient water  to  cover.  When  ready  to  prepare  the  custard,  drain 
off  the  water  if  any  remain,  and  add  one  quart  of  milk  to  the 
tapioca ;  place  in  a  double  boiler  and  cook  until  transparent ; 
then  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  or  the  yolks  of  two 
and  one  whole  one,  mixed  with  three-fourths  of  a  cup  of  sugar. 
Let  it  cook  a  few  minutes — just  long  enough  for  the  custard  to 


Custards,   Creams  and  Fancy  Desserts.  449 

thicken  and  no  more,  or  it  will  whey  and  be  spoiled — flavor  with 
a  little  vanilla  and  turn  into  a  glass  dish.  Cover  the  top  with  the 
whites  beaten  stiffly  with  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  and  dot  with 
bits  of  jelly,  or  colored  sugar  prepared  by  mixing  sugar  with 
cranberry  or  raspberry  juice  and  allowing  it  to  dry.  For  variety 
the  custard  may  be  flavored  with  grated  lemon  rind  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice  whipped  up  with  the  whites  of  the  eggs ; 
or  other  flavor  may  be  dispensed  with,  and  the  meringue  fla- 
vored by  beating  a  tablespoonful  of  quince  jelly  with  the  whites 
of  the  eggs. 

Molded  Tapioca  with  Fruit. — Simmer  one- half  cup  of  de- 
siccated cocoanut  in  a  pint  of  milk  for  twenty  minutes.  Strain 
out  the  cocoanut  and  add  milk  to  make  a  full  pint.  Add  one- 
half  cup  of  sugar  and  one-half  cup  of  tapioca  previously  soaked 
over  night.  Let  the  whole  simmer  until  the  tapioca  is  transpar- 
ent. Dip  some  cups  in  cold  water,  drain,  and  lay  fresh  straw- 
berries, currants  or  cherries  in  the  bottom  of  each  in  the  form  of 
a  star  or  cross.  Pour  the  tapioca  into  the  molds  gently,  so  as 
not  to  break  the  fruit.  When  cold,  turn  out  and  serve  with 
whipped  cream. 

Fruit  Foam  Dessert. — Soak  half  a  package  of  gelatine  in 
half  a  cup  of  cold  water  until  soft.  Heat  to  boiling  two  and  one- 
half  cups  of  red  raspberry,  currant,  strawberry  or  grape  juice, 
sweetened  to  taste,  and  pour  over  the  soaked  gelatine.  Stir  until 
perfectly  dissolved,  then  strain,  and  then  set  the  dish  in  ice  water 
to  cool.  When  it  is  cold  and  beginning  to  thicken,  beat  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  stir  into  the  thickening 
gelatine.  Beat  thoroughly  for  fifteen  minutes  with  an  egg  beater, 
or  whip  till  the  whole  is  of  a  solid  foam  stiff  enough  to  retain  its 
shape.  Turn  into  molds  previously  wet  with  cold  water,  or  pile 
roughly  in  large  spoonfuls  in  a  glass  dish.  Set  away  in  the  re- 
frigerator until  needed.  Serve  with  a  little  whipped  cream  piled 
lightly  around  it. 


45 o  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Floating  Island. — Make  a  custard  of  a  pint  of  milk  flavored 
with  cocoanut,  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs ;  sweeten  to  taste,  and 
steam  in  a  double  boiler.  When  done,  turn  into  a  glass  dish. 
Have  the  whites  of  the  eggs  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  drop 
for  a  few  seconds  on  the  top  of  a  pan  of  scalding  hot  water,  turn- 
ing so  that  both  sides  may  be  alike  coagulated  but  not  hardened ; 
skim  off,  and  put  in  islands  on  the  top  of  the  custard.  When 
quite  cold,  drop  bits  of  different  colored  jellies  on  the  islands,  and 
keep  in  a  cool  place  till  needed.  Or  put  a  spoonful  of  fruit  jelly 
in  the  bottom  of  small  glasses,  and  fill  with  the  custard  with  a 
spoonful  of  the  whites  on  top. 

Peach  Meringue. — Pare  and  quarter  (removing  stones)  a 
quart  of  sound  ripe  peaches ;  place  them  in  a  dish  that  it  will 
not  injure  to  set  in  the  oven,  and  yet  be  suitable  to  place  on  the 
table.  Sprinkle  the  peaches  with  sugar,  and  cover  them  well 
with  the  beaten  whites  of  three  eggs.  Stand  the  dish  in  the  oven 
until  the  eggs  have  become  a  delicate  brown,  then  remove,  and 
when  cool  enough,  set  the  dish  on  ice  or  in  a  very  cool  place.  Take 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  add  to  them  a  pint  of  milk,  sweeten  and 
flavor,  and  boil  same  in  a  custard  kettle,  being  careful  to  keep 
the  eggs  from  curdling.  When  cool,  pour  into  a  glass  pitcher 
and  serve  with  the  meringue  when  ready  to  use. 

To  make  Meringues  (Parisian  formula?) — Take  the  whites 
of  eight  eggs  and  put  them  in  an  agate  or  porcelain  vessel ;  add 
one  good  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  with  an  egg  beater  begin 
beating  slowly,  but  gradually  increase  until  stiff  froth  is  obtained  ; 
should  it  become  grainy  beat  briskly  again,  adding  nearly  three- 
quarters  of  an  ounce  of  powdered  sugar  ;  ten  minutes  should  be 
sufficient  to  make  the  dessert  froth ;  remove  the  egg  beater  ; 
have  on  a  plate  one  and  one-quarter  pounds  of  powdered  sugar, 
and  with  a  spatula  or  spoon  drop  the  sugar  slowly  and  carefully; 
this  should  take  about  three  minutes  ;  flavor  it  well  with  any 
desired  flavoring  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 


Custards,   Creams  and  Fancy  Desserts.  451 

To  make  Apple,  Peach,  Pear  or  other  Meringues. — Take 
twelve  fine  cooked  apples ;  dress  them  on  a  dessert  dish,  filling 
the  centers  with  raspberry,  currant  or  other  jellies.  This  decorate 
on  top  and  all  around  with  meringues  made  as  in  formula  above. 
Sprinkle  them  moderately  with  powdered  sugar;  set  dish  on 
baking  pan  and  set  in  moderate  oven  for  about  five  or  eight 
minutes,  or  until  they  are  a  light  brown  color ;  then  take  out  and 
they  are  ready  to  serve.  Treat  peaches,  pears  and  other  fruits 
the  same  way. 

Floating  Island. — Four  coffee  cups  of  fresh  milk,  five  ounces 
of  sugar,  five  eggs.  Heat  the  milk,  then  add  the  beaten  yolks 
and  one  of  the  whites,  together  with  the  sugar.  First  stir  into 
them  a  little  of  the  milk  to  prevent  curdling,  then  all  of  the  milk 
Do  not  have  the  milk  boiling.  Cook  it  the  proper  thickness, 
remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  cool,  flavor ;  then  pour  it  into  a 
glass  dish  and  let  it  become  very  cold.  Before  it  is  served,  beat 
up  the  remaining  four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  beat  into  them 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  currant 
jelly.  Dip  this  over  the  top  of  the  custard. 

Rice  and  Fruit  Dessert. — Steam  a  cupful  of  good  well- 
washed  rice  in  milk  till  tender.  Prepare  some  tart  apples  by 
paring,  dividing  midway  between  the  stem  and  blow  ends,  and 
removing  the  cores.  Fill  the  cavities  with  quince  or  pineapple 
jelly;  put  the  apples  in  a  shallow  stew  pan  with  half  a  cupful  of 
water,  cover  and  steam  till  nearly  tender.  Put  the  rice,  which 
should  be  very  moist,  around  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  pudding 
dish;  place  the  apples  inside,  cover  and  bake  ten  minutes. 
Serve  with  cream  flavored  with  quince  or  lemon. 

Charlotte  Russe. — Boil  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  two  tumblers 
of  milk,  and  boil  hard.  Beat  the  whites  and  yolks  separately  of 
six  eggs,  adding  to  the  yolks  half  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  stir 
them  into  the  boiling  milk  long  enough  for  them  to  thicken  like 
a  rich  custard ;  then  stir  in  the  whites,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth. 


"45  2  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Season  with  vanilla.  Whip  a  pint  of  rich  cream  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  stir  into  the  custard.  When  cold,  arrange  your  cake  in  the 
mold  and  pour  in  the  mixture.  Set  it  on  ice. 

Charlotte  Russe. — Two  cupfuls  of  thick  cream,  one  cupful  of 
milk,  three  eggs,  half  an  ounce  of  gelatine.  Whip  the  cream 
until  very  stiff  and  drain ;  then  add  the  eggs,  beaten  very  light,  to 
the  milk ;  sweeten  and  flavor  to  suit  the  taste.  Steam  in  double 
boiler  or  over  hot  water  until  it  is  like  a  custard.  Soak  the 
patent  gelatine  in  a  very  little  water,  and  warm  over  boiling 
water.  When  the  custard  is  very  cold,  beat  in  lightly  the  gela- 
tine and  the  whipped  cream.  Line  the  bottom  of  your  mold 
with  buttered  paper,  the  side  with  sponge  cake  or  lady  fingers 
fastened  together  with  the  white  of  an  egg.  Fill  with  the  cream, 
put  in  a  cold  place  or  refrigerator.  To  turn  out,  dip  the  mold 
for  a  moment  in  hot  water.  In  draining  the  whipped  cream,  all 
that  drips  through  can  be  rewhipped. 

Orange  Charlotte. — Soak  for  two  hours,  in  half  a  cupful  of 
warm  water,  half  a  box  of  gelatine ;  add  one  and  a  half  cupfuls 
of  boiling  water,  and  strain  through  a  cheese  cloth ;  then  add 
one  cupful  of  orange  juice  and  pulp,  the  juice  of  one  lemon  and 
two  cupfuls  of  sugar;  stir  about  five  or  six  minutes,  then  beat 
the  whites  of  six  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  stir  in ;  beat  the  whole 
together  until  very  stiff.  Stand  up  in  cups  or  molds  two  or 
three  sections  of  orange,  pour  on  cream,  and  set  on  ice  to  cool. 

Fruit  Charlotte. — Make  a  steamed  custard  out  of  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  one  pint  of  milk  ;  flavor  to 
taste.  Lay  in  fruit  dish  a  layer  of  sponge  cake — first  dip  the 
cake  in  sweet  cream — then  put  a  layer  of  berries  well  sweetened, 
then  another  layer  of  cake  and  berries.  Have  the  custard  cold 
and  pour  it  over  this.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth 
and  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  put  this  frosting  over 
the  top.  Lay  on  top  of  the  frosting  a  few  of  the  nicest  berries 
that  you  save  out. 


Custards,   Creams  and  Fancy  Desserts.  453 

Bananas,  cherries,  strawberries,  raspberries  and  all  small  fruits 
may  be  made  in  a  Charlotte  this  way. 

Orange  Cream. — Pare  and  squeeze  two  oranges  on  a  cupful 
of  finely  powdered  sugar,  with  half  a  cup  of  water.  Add  four 
well-beaten  eggs  and  beat  all  together  some  time.  Strain  the 
whole  through  flannel  into  a  saucepan ;  set  it  over  a  gentle  fire, 
and  stir  it  one  way  until  thick  and  scalding  hot — not  boiling,  or  it 
will  curdle.  If  lumps  of  sugar  are  rubbed  on  the  oranges  before 
they  are  pared,  the  flavor  may  be  extracted ;  or  they  may  be 
grated.  Serve  as  custard  in  jelly  glasses. 

Whipped  Cream  a  la  Yanilla. — Pour  two  cups  of  sweet 
cream  into  a  vessel.  Have  a  large  dish  pan  containing  chopped 
ice  and  a  little  water,  and  lay  the  basin  on  top.  With  a  soft 
wire  egg-whip  beat  the  cream  slowly  at  first,  and  increase  in 
swiftness  until  it  is  a  firm  froth.  Sweeten  with  two  ounces  of 
powdered  sugar,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  flavoring,  beat- 
ing constantly.  Let  it  rest,  and  use  when  needed.  Remove 
all  the  superfluous  milk  which  may  be  found  with  the  cream 
before  using  it. 

Lemon  Cream. — Take  a  pint  of  thick  cream,  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  well  beaten,  a  cup  of  white  sugar,  and  the  rind  of  a 
lemon  cut  thin ;  boil  it  up,  then  stir  it  until  almost  cold ;  put 
the  juice  of  a  lemon  in  a  dish,  and  pour  the  cream  upon  it,  stirring 
well  until  cold.  Serve  in  a  large  glass  dish  or  in  custard  cups, 
either  alone  or  with  sweetmeats. 

Creme  Patissiere. — Pour  two  cups  of  cold  milk  into  a  sauce- 
pan, and  place  it  on  the  stove.  Mix  in  another  vessel  two 
ounces  of  powdered  sugar  with  one  ounce  of  flour  and  half  an 
ounce  of  corn-starch.  Break  in  two  whole  eggs,  and  beat  well 
together  with  the  whip  for  two  minutes.  When  the  milk  is  boil- 
ing add  it  to  the  preparation,  and  after  stirring  one  minute 
longer,  put  it  into  another  saucepan  and  place  it  on  the  stove. 
Beat  well  until  it  comes  to  a  boil ;  then  remove  from  the  fire, 


454  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

and  add  immediately  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence.  Mix 
thoroughly  again  for  one  minute  longer;  then  pour  it  into  a 
bowl,  and  let  it  get  cold. 

Whipped  Cream.— Whip  to  a  stiff  froth  half  a  cupful  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla,  three  cupfuls  of  rich 
sweet  cream.  Dissolve  three-fourths  of  an  ounce  of  best  gelatine 
in  a  cupful  of  hot  water,  and  when  cool  pour  it  in  the  cream  and 
stir  it  gently  from  the  bottom  upward,  cutting  the  cream  into  it, 
until  it  thickens.  The  dish  which  contains  the  cream  should  be 
set  in  another  dish  containing  cracked  ice.  When  finished,  pour 
in  molds  and  set  on  ice  or  in  the  refrigerator. 

Fruit  Cream.— Clean  and  pick  off  the  hulls  of  a  box  of 
berries,  bruise  them  in  a  basin  with  a  cup  of  powdered  sugar ; 
rub  this  through  a  sieve,  and  mix  with  it  a  pint  of  whipped 
cream  and  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  Cox's  gelatine ;  pour  the 
cream  into  a  mold  previously  oiled.  Set  it  on  ice,  and  when  it 
has  become  firm,  turn  out  on  a  dish. 

Italian  Cream. — Take  two  cupfuls  of  milk  and  soak  half  of 
a  box  of  gelatine  in  it  for  an  hour;  place  it  on  the  fire  and  stir 
often.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  very  light  with  one-half  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  stir  into  the  scalding  milk,  and  heat  until  it 
begins  to  thicken — it  should  not  boil,  or  it  will  curdle ;  remove 
from  the  fire  and  strain  through  thin  cheese  cloth,  and  when 
nearly  cold,  flavor  to  suit  the  taste;  then  wet  a  dish  in  cold 
water  and  set  in  cool  place. 

Almond  Cheese  Cakes. — The  yolks  of  three  eggs  well  beaten, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bitter  and  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweet 
almonds,  and  a  quarter  pound  of  sifted  sugar.  The  almonds 
must  be  pounded,  but  not  very  finely.  The  eggs  should  be 
beaten  to  a  cream  and  the  sugar  mixed  with  them,  and  then  the 
almonds  added.  To  be  put  into  tartlet  tins  lined  with  puff  paste. 

Fruit  for  Dessert.— Add  a  little  water  to  the  white  of  an 
egg  and  beat  it  well ;  dip  the  fruit  in  and  immediately  sprinkle 


Custards,   Creams  and  Fancy  Desserts.  455 

it  all  over  with  powdered  sugar.  Then  leave  it  for  four  or  five 
hours,  and  serve  with  custard,  loppered  milk,  or  ice  corn-starch 
pudding.  Large  and  fair  bunches  of  red  and  white  currants 
make  a  charming  dish  in  this  way.  Strawberries,  blackberries, 
cherries  or  raspberries  are  either  of  them  suitable. 

Oranges  with  Jelly. — Cut  from  sound  oranges  a  small  circu- 
lar piece  from  the  stem  end,  and  scoop  out  the  pulp  of  the  fruit ; 
or  cut  the  rind  in  the  form  of  a  basket ;  wash  the  peels  in  cold 
water,  put  them  over  the  fire  in  boiling  water  with  a  little  sugar, 
and  boil  them  for  five  minutes ;  then  cool  them  and  fill  them 
with  jelly  slightly  softened  by  heat ;  after  the  orange  rinds  are 
filled  with  jelly  it  must  be  allowed  to  harden ;  the  entire  rind 
containing  the  jelly  can  then  be  cut  in  quarters  or  served  whole. 
The  effect  is  very  pretty. 

Cocoanut  Cakes. — Scrape  off  the  rind  and  grate  the  nut  quite 
fine,  and  mix  it  with  half  its  weight  of  finely  pounded  white 
sugar  and  the  white  of  an  egg.  Drop  the  mixture  on  wafer 
paper  in  rough  pieces  the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  and  bake  it  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Snow  Pyramid.— Beat  to  a  stiff  foam  the  whites  of  half  a 
dozen  eggs,  add  a  small  teacupful  of  currant  jelly,  and  whip  all 
together  again.  Fill  half  full  of  cream  as  many  saucers  as  you 
have  guests,  dropping  in  the  center  of  each  saucer  a  tablespoonful 
of  the  beaten  eggs  and  jelly  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid. 

Summer  Fruits  Mixed. — Take  fine  fresh  strawberries,  white 
and  red  currants,  and  white  or  red  raspberries ;  strip  them  care- 
fully from  the  stalks,  and  heap  them  high  on  a  dessert  dish  in 
layers,  strewing  each  layer  with  sifted  sugar.  Before  serving  lay 
thick  cream  entirely  over  the  fruit,  and  gently  stir  them  with  a 
spoon  when  served.  Some  use  instead  of  cream  two  wine  glasses 
full  of  sherry,  madeira  or  any  other  good  white  wine.  Either 
currants  or  strawberries  by  themselves  are  good  prepared  in 
this  way. 


456  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Lemon  Drops. — Boil  clarified  syrup  until  it  will  crack  when 
dropped  in  water ;  flavor  it  with  lemon,  then  pour  it  in  small 
drops  on  buttered  paper  and  set  aside  to  get  cold. 

Icing  for  Tarts. — Beat  the  white  of  an  egg  with  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  flavor  with  two  spoonfuls  of 
almond  or  lemon  extract,  stir  them  together  one  way  till  the 
mixture  is  quite  thick,  and  then  lay  it  on  the  tarts  with  a  feather 
or  a  bunch  of  feathers ;  then  let  the  tarts  stand  in  a  mild  oven 
until  hard,  but  not  long  enough  to  become  discolored. 

Apple  Pique. — Peel  and  stew  some  apples,  but  do  not  let 
them  break ;  place  them  in  a  glass  dish  half  full  of  syrup,  and 
put  a  piece  of  currant  jelly  on  the  top  of  each  apple. 

Cream  Puffs. — For  shells  :  A  pint  of  boiling  water ;  melt  in  it 
half  a  pound  of  lard,  and,  while  boiling,  stir  into  this  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour.  Boil  until  a  thick  paste  is  formed. 
The  best  way  to  boil  it  is  to  set  one  kettle  in  another,  or  a  pail 
in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water  with  the  ingredients  in  the  pail,  as  in 
boiling  a  custard.  When  thick  take  from  the  fire,  and  when 
cool  add  ten  eggs  and  a  little  salt.  Mix  thoroughly  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes ;  oven  about  as  hot  as 
for  pies.  This  makes  five  dozen  cakes.  Drop  with  a  spoon  on 
buttered  tins,  some  distance  apart.  When  cool  open  carefully 
with  a  knife,  and  fill  with  mock  cream,  which  is  made  as  follows  : 
One  quart  of  milk,  four  eggs,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
white  sugar,  five  ounces  of  flour,  extract  of  vanilla  to  taste. 
Make  a  smooth  paste  of  flour  in  some  of  the  cold  milk ;  put  in  a 
kettle  of  boiling  water  with  all  the  milk ;  when  thickened  a  little, 
add  the  eggs  well  beaten  with  the  sugar.  When  creamy  it  is 
done.  Take  from  the  fire  and  add  a  little  extract  of  vanilla. 
Do  not  use  until  cold. 

Cream  Meringues. — Have  ready  a  large  thick  board  which 
will  go  into  the  oven,  covered  with  glazed  letter  paper ;  beat  the 
whites  of  six  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  gently  mix  with  them  half 


Custards,   Creams  and  Fancy  Desserts.  457 

a  pound  of  pulverized  sugar,  taking  care  not  to  break  down  the 
eggs ;  work  very  quickly  and  lightly,  and  as  soon  as  the  sugar 
is  incorporated  with  the  egg,  heap  the  meringue  so  made  upon 
the  paper,  either  in  two  large  mounds  or  in  an  even  number  of 
small  ones,  and  push  the  board  containing  them  into  a  very  slow 
oven  where  the  meringues  will  dry  out  rather  than  bake ;  if  the 
oven  is  too  hot  leave  the  door  open,  and  change  the  board  fre- 
quently, so  that  the  heat  will  strike  its  contents  evenly.  When 
the  meringues  are  light  brown,  cool  them  a  little,  take  them  off 
the  paper,  turn  them  off  on  the  hand,  and,  without  breaking 
them,  take  out  the  soft  center  and  press  the  rest  back  upon  the 
outside  with  the  bowl  of  a  spoon  to  form  a  hollow  shell ;  dust  the 
inside  with  powdered  sugar ;  lay  the  shells,  bottom  upward,  on 
clean  paper  on  the  board,  and  place  them  in  a  cool  oven  to  dry 
out.  Fill  them  with  whipped  cream. 

Orange  Biscuits. — Grate  the  rind  from  five  oranges,  and  put 
into  a  mortar  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  pounded  lump  sugar,  and  the  whites  of 
one  or  two  eggs,  and  mix  it  well  together  with  the  pestle  until  it 
is  very  light.  Drop  the  mixture,  when  ready,  in  small  lumps 
about  the  size  of  a  walnut  on  doubled  paper  laid  on  a  baking 
tin,  and  put  them  into  moderately  hot  oven.  Do  not  drop  them 
too  near  together  on  the  paper,  as  they  spread  while  baking. 
When  they  are  baked  take  them  out,  and  take  them  off  the 
paper  when  they  are  cold. 

Kisses. — Beat  to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  and  stir 
in  quickly  a  coffeecupful  of  powdered  sugar ;  turn  the  dripping 
pan  bottom  side  up  in  the  oven,  and  cut  some  writing  paper  about 
two  inches  wide ;  place  this  paper  on  the  dripping  pan  and  drop 
on  a  tablespoonful  of  the  mixture  at  a  time ;  try  and  get  them  as 
near  the  same  size  as  possible,  and  the  shape  of  half  an  egg.  Let 
them  bake  in  slow  oven  for  half  an  hour;  as  soon  as  they  begin 
to  color,  remove  from  the  oven  and  turn  them  carefully  upon  the 


458  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

table,  and  with  a  small  spoon  take  out  the  soft  part  of  the  kisses 
and  add  it  to  the  mixture  to  make  more ;  lay  the  kisses  once 
more  in  the  oven  to  harden,  and  when  required  for  use  fill  them 
with  whipped  cream  flavored  with  vanilla  or  wine  and  sweetened 
with  powdered  sugar;  to  garnish  them  put  a  small  bit  of  jelly  on 
each  one.  Great  care  is  necessary  to  make  kisses  successfully  ; 
the  sweeter  they  are  made  the  more  crisp  they  will  be,  and  they 
must  be  baked  as  soon  as  they  are  made,  for  if  not  the  sugar  will 
melt  and  they  will  run  on  the  paper.  For  a  variety,  color  some 
with  cochineal,  and  when  they  are  in  the  oven,  ready  to  bake, 
sprinkle  them  with  sugar  and  then  with  chopped  almonds  or 
currants.  After  removing  the  inside  or  soft  part  of  the  kisses 
they  may  be  filled  with  jelly  or  jam,  connecting  them  together 
with  some  of  the  mixture. 


FANCY  DESSERTS. 


FROM    THE    FRENCH. 

By  request  of  many  of  my  patrons,  I  have  procured,  at  quite 
an  expense,  from  one  of  the  leading  chefs  of  Europe  who  has 
catered  in  the  households  of  many  of  the  nobility  of  Europe,  a 
few  of  his  favorite  formulas  and  fancy  desserts,  which  involve  but 
little  expense  and  are  perfectly  practical.  I  have  also  procured 
the  most  famous  method  of  making  good  coffee  and  tea,  which 
not  three  in  every  ten  housekeepers  can  do,  and  which  can  only 
be  perfectly  accomplished  by  following  the  exact  proportions  and 
given  time. 

The  Royal  Tower  Cake. — This  cake  was  very  popular  among 
the  nobility  during  the  reign  of  Napoleon  III. 

Have  in  readiness  two  pounds  of  good  flour,  one-quarter 
ounce  of  compressed  yeast  and  one-quarter  ounce  of  warm  water. 
First  take  six  ounces  of  the  flour  and  put  into  a  vessel,  make  a 
hollow  in  the  center  and  put  in  the  yeast  and  water  mentioned ; 
mix  the  yeast  gently  with  the  water  for  about  four  minutes,  then 
mix  all  together  slowly  for  about  five  minutes  more.  Cover  the 
vessel  with  a  towel  and  leave  it  in  a  warm  place,  but  not  on  stove 
or  range,  about  one-half  hour.  It  will  rise  to  twice  its  size.  Lay 
the  remainder  of  the  flour  on  the  table,  make  the  hollow  in  the 
center  and  pour  in  two  ounces  powdered  sugar  and  eight  raw 
eggs;  mix  sugar  and  eggs  well  with  the  hands  and  add  one-half 
pint  cream  and  one-quarter  pint  good  madeira  or  sherry  wine  ; 
season  with  two  teaspoonfuls  very  fine  salt  and  mix  well  with  the 


460  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

flour  for  six  or  eight  minutes.  Make  a  hollow  in  the  center 
again  and  into  this  put  three-quarters  pound  of  good  fresh  butter 
and  mix  well  again  for  three  minutes;  if  the  prepared  yeast 
dough  (which  was  allowed  to  stand  thirty  minutes)  has  risen  to 
its  proper  height,  mix  the  two  pastes  together  for  at  least  seven 
minutes,  then  return  to  the  vessel  and  leave  in  the  same  warm 
place  as  described,  and  cover  with  towel  as  before.  When  it  has 
stood  one  hour  have  in  readiness  one-quarter  pound  of  currants, 
one-third  pound  of  raisins  and  two  ounces  of  finely  chopped 
citron ;  then  take  a  cylindrical  copper  or  tin  mold  (greasing  it 
first  with  cold  butter)  large  enough  to  hold  six  pints.  If  the 
paste  be  now  risen  to  twice  its  size  mix  in  the  currants,  raisins 
and  citron,  stirring  for  about  six  minutes.  Put  all  in  the  mold 
and  set  in  a  warm  place  (but  not  on  the  stove  or  range)  for  an- 
other twenty-five  minutes  ;  then  place  in  a  moderate  oven  for  one 
hour.  When  it  is  a  golden  color  remove  and  let  it  cool  slightly ; 
place  a  round  dish  over  the  mold,  turn  upside  down,  lift  out  the 
mold,  and  cover  the  cake  with  icing  if  desired.  Those  desiring 
to  make  a  smaller  cake  can  use  one-half  or  one-quarter  the 
quantity. 

Creme  a  la  Yanille  Sauce. — Take  the  yolk  of  three  eggs  and 
put  in  a  small  vessel,  with  two  ounces  powdered  sugar  and  one 
ounce  of  flour  and  a  piece  of  vanilla  bean  the  size  of  a  lima  bean  ; 
beat  well  together  with  egg  beater  for  two  or  three  minutes,  and 
pour  this  all  into  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  and  beat  again  briskly 
with  the  beater  until  it  boils  once  more  ;  then  remove  from  fire 
and  add  one-half  gill  of  maraschino  ;  beat  again  for  one  minute, 
after  which  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Glace  a  la  Francaise — A  Splendid  Icing  for  Cakes. — Put 
into  a  small  vessel  two  ounces  of  granulated  sugar  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water,  and  allow  this  to  come  to  a  boil ;  remove  and 
add  at  once  two  tablespoonfuls  of  curacoa,  mixing  well  together, 
and  put  away  in  cool  place  (covered)  ready  for  use. 


Fancy  Desserts.  461 

Creme  a  la  Anglaise — A  Famous  Sauce  for  Cakes.— Putin 
a  small  vessel  three  ounces  of  butter  and  one  and  one-half  ounces 
of  good  flour.  Place  pan  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  with  a  silver 
spoon  stir  slightly  for  two  or  three  minutes,  adding  three  ounces 
of  sugar,  three  ounces  of  white  wine  and  six  ounces  of  good  milk; 
stir  well  again  for  two  or  three  minutes,  but  don't  allow  it  to  come 
to  a  boil.  Take  pan  from  the  fire,  add  three  ounces  of  rum, 
stirring  it  slightly  again.  Pour  the  creme  into  the  bowl  ready 
for  use. 

French  Apple  Charlotte. — Peel  and  cut  into  quarters  five 
nice  large  apples,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  about  two  and 
one-half  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  five  ounces  of  powdered 
sugar,  and  place  on  a  moderate  fire ;  stir  them  around  for  two 
minutes,  then  pour  over  about  one-third  of  a  pint  of  white  wine 
and  grate  in  the  peel  of  one-half  of  a  large  lemon.  Cover  the  pan 
and  let  cook  from  eight  to  twelve  minutes,  so  that  the  liquid  is 
nearly  all  absorbed.  Remove  from  fire  and  put  aside  to  cool. 
Take  a  four-pint  Charlotte  mold,  line  it  (beginning  from  the 
bottom)  with  very  thin  slices  of  bread  spread  on  well  with  melted 
butter,  using  a  small  brush  for  the  purpose,  and  sprinkle  lightly 
over  with  powdered  sugar.  Be  sure  and  have  the  bottom  well 
covered  with  bread ;  then  line  the  sides  of  the  mold  to  the  edge 
in  the  same  way  ;  fill  the  mold  with  the  apples  as  described,  and 
cover  over  completely  with  small  thin  layers  of  buttered  bread  as 
described.  Set  mold  in  a  baking  pan  and  place  it  in  a  brisk 
oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  or  until  the  bread  be  a  good 
golden  color ;  then  take  out  of  oven,  lay  a  hot  dish  on  top  of 
mold ;  turn  it  over  to  remove  the  mold.  For  sauce,  heat  in  a 
pan  three  ounces  of  fruit  marmalade  or  jelly  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  two  of  water,  mix  well  and  pour  over 
Charlotte  hot,  and  serve. 

Macaroons  a  la  Francaise  (very  simple  method.} — Take  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  and  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  beat 


462  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

together  so  it  will  make  a  stiff  icing  as  on  outside  of  a  cake  ;  to 
this  add  one  cup  of  nuts  (blanched  almonds),  chopped  as  fine  as 
possible,  ana  a  pinch  of  salt.  Take  a  cake  pan  with  small  molds 
and  run  icings  in  molds,  first  having  buttered  paper  at  bottom 
of  each  mold  ;  put  in  slow  oven  and  bake  until  they  are  a  golden 
color. 

Grilled  Almonds. — These  are  very  delicious  and  are  served 
at  dinner  with  salted  almonds,  now  so  much  in  favor.  Blanch 
and  dry  thoroughly  a  cupful  of  almonds.  Boil  a  cupful  sugar 
and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  water  until  it  hairs ;  then  put  in  the 
almonds.  Let  them  fry  in  this  syrup,  stirring  occasionally  ;  they 
will  turn  a  pale  brown.  Remove  from  the  stove  the  instant  the 
sugar  changes  color,  and  stir  until  the  syrup  has  turned  back  to 
sugar,  and  clings  to  the  nuts  in  various  shapes. 

Salted  Almonds  (French  formula]. — Blanch  the  almonds  by 
dropping  them  into  hot  water ;  spread  them  on  a  dry  towel,  re- 
move the  skins  and  wipe  them  dry  ;  put  them  in  a  biscuit  tin 
and  sprinkle  with  salt,  same  as  for  eating.  Put  tin  in  oven,  clos- 
ing the  oven  door ;  never  leave  them  for  an  instant ;  at  intervals 
of  every  one-half  minute  or  so,  open  door  and  stir  them,  using 
the  same  operation  as  in  browning  coffee  (the  oven  should  be  of 
the  same  degree  of  heat  as  in  browning  coffee).  When  they  are 
sufficiently  dried  and  have  a  nice  light  brown  color,  take  them 
out  of  oven  and  mix  with  them  a  lump  of  good  butter  one-half 
the  size  of  an  egg  to  every  one  pound  of  nuts,  and  stir  until  butter 
is  absorbed;  place  nuts  in  cans  or  jars,  put  on  cover  and  put  in 
dry  place.  You  can  use  the  same  methods  for  salting  peanuts 
and  other  nuts. 

How  to  Peel  and  Pound  Almonds.— Put  the  almonds  into 
boiling  water  ;  let  them  soak  three  minutes  ;  strain,  and  lay  them 
in  cold  water  to  thoroughly  cool.  Drain  well  again,  and  peel  by 
pressing  each  almond  between  the  thumb  and  fingers.  Then  put 
them  into  a  sieve,  and  place  them  at  the  door  of  a  slow  oven  to 


Fancy  Desserts.  463 

dry  for  ten  minutes.  Now  pound  them  gently  in  a  mortar,  stir- 
ring well  to  prevent  them  from  getting  oily,  and  taking  care  to 
pound  them  very  fine  for  at  least  ten  minutes.  Lay  them  on  a 
cold  dish  and  use  when  needed. 

Almond  Macaroons. — Blanch  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  shelled 
almonds,  pound  them  smooth  in  a  mortar,  adding  two  or  three 
drops  of  rose  water  whenever  the  pounded  almonds  begin  to  look 
oily  ;  when  they  are  smooth,  beat  the  white  of  one  egg  and  mix 
it  with  the  almonds ;  then  beat  two  more  whites  stiff,  mix  them 
lightly  with  a  quarter  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  add  them 
to  the  whites  and  almonds  already  mixed ;  when  the  mixture  is 
smooth,  stir  into  it  another  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar; 
when  the  macaroon  batter  looks  creamy,  put  it  in  little  balls  on 
paper  slightly  wet  with  a  little  brush ;  bake  the  macaroons  in  a 
slow  oven  until  they  are  golden  brown.  It  takes  about  twenty 
minutes.  To  remove  them  from  the  paper,  moisten  the  table  with 
cold  water,  lay  the  papers  with  the  macaroons  on  same  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  they  will  come  off  easily. 

Peaches  a  la  Creme. — Pare  and  stone  some  nice  peaches  and 
cut  them  into  quarters.  Take  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  beat  into 
a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and  two  cups  of  milk.  Put  the 
peaches  into  this  cream  ;  put  in  an  earthen  dish  and  set  in  another 
vessel  partially  filled  with  boiling  water,  and  bake  until  nearly 
firm.  Then  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  which  have  been  beaten 
in  a  half  cupful  of  sugar,  until  very  stiff.  Place  back  in  the  oven 
and  bake  a  light  brown. 

Almond  Cake  Glace. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered 
sugar  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  bowl ;  beat  well 
together  with  a  spoon  for  ten  minutes.  Break  in  two  eggs,  beat 
well,  and  break  in  two  more  ;  continue  beating,  and  break  in  two 
more  (six  in  all),  until  well  mixed  together.  Then  grate  in  the 
peel  of  the  third  of  a  small  lemon.  Add  two  ounces  of  peeled 
and  pounded  almonds,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour.  Mix 


464  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

gradually  together  for  no  longer  than  two  minutes.  Butter  and 
sugar  a  round  form  holding  one  quart,  and  pour  the  preparation 
into  it.  Place  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  one  hour.  See  that  it  gets  a 
good  golden  color.  Take  it  out,  let  it  get  thoroughly  cool,  and 
remove  from  the  mold.  Lay  it  on  a  dish  and  brush  with  some 
nice  glace  and  serve. 

Glace  Royale. — Take  the  white  of  one  well- beaten  egg  and 
add  into  it  one  tablespoonful  of  good  powdered  sugar;  add  ten 
drops  of  lemon  juice  and  beat  well  for  about  five  minutes.  When 
finished  it  should  be  very  white  and  pulpy.  This  is  very  nice  to 
cover  cakes  with. 

Madeleine. — Rub  the  rind  of  two  small  lemons  on  a  lump  of 
sugar  ;  crush  it  very  fine  with  a  roller,  mixing  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  powdered  sugar  with  it.  Put  two  ounces  of  this  into  a 
saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  one  egg  yolk  and  two 
whole  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  good  brandy,  and  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Stir  all  together  well,  and  after  two  minutes, 
when  the  paste  is  well  mixed,  stir  it  again  for  one  minute  only. 
Put  two  ounces  of  good  butter  into  a  separate  saucepan ;  as  soon 
as  the  scum  rises,  stir  it  carefully  for  one  minute  and  let  it  cool 
slightly.  Then  spread  it  well  over  a  three-pint  mold.  Put  the 
saucepan  containing  the  preparation  on  a  very  slow  fire ;  stir 
slightly  to  prevent  it  adhering  to  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan,  and 
as  soon  as  it  becomes  liquid  take  it  off  and  fill  the  mold.  Lay 
it  in  a  moderately  heated  oven  for  forty-five  minutes ;  remove 
and  allow  to  cool. 

Pate-a-Chon. — Put  into  a  pan  one  pint  of  cold  milk  and  four 
ounces  of  butter ;  place  pan  on  the  range ;  stir  lightly  with  a 
spoon  (always  have  spoon  of  silver  or  silver  plated)  and  when  it 
comes  to  a  boil  immediately  add  one-half  pound  of  well  sifted 
flour ;  stir  briskly  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  stand  the  pan 
on  a  table;  break  in  two  eggs ;  mix  sharply  for  two  or  three 
minutes  more  and  break  in  two  more  eggs ;  mix  sharply  again 


Fancy  Desserts.  465 

as  before,  and  repeat  third  and  then  fourth  time  in  this  manner, 
each  time  using  two  eggs. 

Choux  a  la  Creme,  a  la  Empress  Eugene.— Make  a  pate-a- 
chou  as  described  above  and  put  sauce  into  a  pastry  bag,  and 
then  press  or  pour  it  on  a  baking  sheet  so  as  to  make  ten  or 
twelve  round  cakes  of  equal  size  and  about  two  and  one-half 
inches  high.  Ice  the  surface  of  each  with  an  icing,  and  bake  in 
a  moderately  warm  oven  for  about  thirty-five  minutes ;  watch 
carefully,  and  when  they  are  of  a  light  brown  color  remove  from 
oven  and  allow  to  cool  for  one-half  hour.  Then  on  side  of  each 
cake  make  incision  about  half  way  ;  fill  the  inside  with  a  cream 
paste  and  close  them  again,  and  cover  well  with  powdered  sugar, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Eclairs  a  la  Francaise. — Put  into  a  pastry  bag  a  tube  suffi- 
cient to  hold  the  quantity  of  pate-a-chou  as  described  in  page 
464,  and  then  press  eclairs  on  a  baking  sheet,  each  one  not  over 
three  or  four  inches  long.  Bake  them  in  hot  oven  for  twenty 
minutes.  Then  take  out  and  let  them  cool,  and  then  on  each 
side  of  eclair  make  an  incision,  and  with  a  spoon  fill  the  inte- 
riors with  a  creme  paste. 

To  Glaze  Eclairs  with  Chocolate. — Take  two  pounds  of 
granulated  sugar  and  one-third  of  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and  mix 
in  pan  and  place  on  hot  stove  and  leave  until  sugar  is  thoroughly 
melted,  and  when  boiling  take  from  the  stove  and  pour  it  grad- 
ually on  a  marble  slab,  on  which  it  should  be  well  spread.  Let  it 
cool  off  for  about  twelve  minutes,  then  cut  two  and  one-quarter 
ounces  of  cocoa  in  small  pieces ;  put  on  pan  and  put  on  back  of 
stove  or  range  to  melt,  and  with  a  silver  spoon  commence  work- 
ing the  melted  sugar  on  slab  as  rapidly  as  possible  in  all  direc- 
tions until  it  whitens ;  then  add  the  melted  cocoa,  mixing  it 
thoroughly  again  until  it  hardens ;  then  detach  the  whole  from 
marble  slab  as  quickly  as  possible  ;  put  this  in  a  vessel  and  cover 
with  a  damp  towel,  and  let  stand  for  one-half  hour.  Then  place 


466  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

in  a  pan  on  a  hot  stove,  and  with  a  spoon  mix  thoroughly  but 
slowly,  until  it  is  lukewarm,  meanwhile  adding  a  dessertspoonful 
of  cold  water ;  take  the  eclairs  one  by  one  with  the  hand,  dip 
them  in  this  mixture,  lay  them  on  a  dish  and  let  them  cool  off; 
they  are  then  ready  to  serve.  By  keeping  in  a  cool  place  and 
covered  it  will  keep  for  several  weeks. 

Plum  Pudding  Glace  a  la  Queen  Victoria.— A  favorite  des- 
sert among  the  royalty  of  England.  Take  one- third  of  a  pound  of 
raisins  and  place  them  in  a  jar,  adding  about  two  ounces  of  good 
sherry  to  them ;  also  add  to  this  one  and  one-quarter  ounces  of 
finely  chopped  citron,  two  and  one-half  ounces  finely  chopped 
candied  citron,  two  and  one-half  ounces  finely  chopped  candied 
apricots  and  four  ounces  of  candied  cherries  cut  in  quarters,  and 
mix  well  with  silver  spoon  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Cover  the 
jar  and  stand  for  twelve  hours.  Have  a  little  over  a  quart  of 
chocolate  ice  cream  ready  in  freezer,  and  then  add  the  above 
mixture  and  stir  well  with  a  spoon  for  a  few  minutes ;  then  put 
on  cover  of  freezer  and  allow  to  freeze  for  six  minutes  longer. 
Take  a  two-quart  melon  mold  and  fill  it  with  the  above  prepara- 
tion, using  a  dipper ;  cover  form  well  and  put  it  in  a  bucket  hav- 
ing broken  ice  and  rock  salt  at  the  bottom,  and  fill  up  the  pail 
with  ice  and  salt  and  allow  it  to  freeze  for  a  couple  of  hours,  and 
then  take  it  out  of  the  mold  and  serve. 

Cream  Paste  a  la  Italian. — Put  in  a  pan  a  quart  of  cold 
milk;  put  on  a  hot  stove,  and  then  in  another  vessel  mix  four 
ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  one  ounce  of  corn-starch,  two  ounces 
flour;  break  into  this  four  whole  eggs,  and  mix  well  together 
with  an  egg  beater  for  about  three  minutes ;  when  the  milk 
comes  to  a  boil,  add  to  the  other  mixture  and  stir  for  about  two 
minutes  longer,  and  then  place  on  stove ;  beat  well  together 
until  it  comes  to  a  boil,  then  remove  pan  from  fire  and  add  a  des- 
sertspoonful of  vanilla ;  stir  well  again  for  another  two  minutes, 
then  pour  in  a  bowl  and  put  in  cool  place. 


Fancy  Desserts.  467 

Nougat  a  la  Marseilles. — Put  in  a  tin  pan  (covering  bottom 
with  a  sheet  of  paper)  about  half  a  pound  of  blanched  almonds 
that  are  perfectly  dry,  first  cutting  each  one  in  four  slices ; 
put  in  warm  place,  but  not  on  stove  or  range,  then  in  a  copper 
sugar  pan  put  three-quarters  of  a  pound  powdered  sugar  and 
place  on  hot  stove,  and  with  a  silver  spoon  stir  constantly  until 
sugar  is  dissolved.  Avoid  browning,  remove  from  fire  and  add 
two  drops  of  lemon  juice;  allow  it  to  cool  slightly  for  a  few  min- 
utes, but  stir  constantly ;  then  add  the  almonds.  Mix  all  gently 
for  a  few  minutes  more.  The  nougat  is  then  done  and  can  be 
molded  according  to  fancy. 

Coffee  a  la  Francaise. — (The  coffee  made  from  this  formula 
received  the  prize  at  Paris  Exposition.)  To  two-thirds  of  a 
pound  of  best  roasted  Java  coffee  mix  one-third  of  a  pound  of 
best  roasted  Mocha  coffee.  The  coffee  must  be  freshly  roasted, 
and  it  would  be  best  to  roast  it  yourself.  Put  same  in  an  air- 
tight jar  or  crock  until  needed.  For  each  person  take  one  table- 
spoonful  of  this  mixture  and  grind  it  in  a  mill — don't  have  it  too 
fine.  Take  a  clean  French  coffee  pot,  put  the  grounds  on  the 
filter  of  pot  and  cover  filter  with  strainer,  and  for  each  table- 
spoonful  of  coffee  used,  pour  over  gradually  four  ounces  of  boil- 
ing water — be  sure  it  is  boiling.  When  all  the  water  has  slowly 
passed  through  filter,  put  on  the  cover.  Allow  the  coffee  pot  to 
stand  on  the  back  of  stove  a  few  minutes  to  infuse  slightly,  but 
not  to  boil.  Serve.  The  yolk  of  eggs  can  be  used  if  desired ;  it 
is  very  important  to  follow  the  exact  time  and  proportions. 

Tea  a  la  Francaise.— (The  tea  made  from  this  formula  has 
received  the  highest  endorsement  of  the  leading  chefs.)  To  two 
ounces  of  the  best  breakfast  tea  procurable  add  just  enough  of 
boiling  water  in  a  tea  pot  (be  sure  the  water  is  boiling)  to  com- 
pletely cover  tea,  and  let  steep  for  one  minute ;  then  draw  the 
water  off,  but  don't  use  it;  then  pour  over  the  tea  from  three  to 
four  pints  of  boiling  water,  according  to  the  strength  desired,  and 


468  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

let  it  steep  for  five  minutes  more  on  back  of  stove,  but  not  to 
boil,  flavoring  it  with  a  little  vanilla  extract  and  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice ;  then  serve  with  powdered  sugar  and  cream. 

Chocolate  a  la  Francaise. — Pour  one  cup  of  boiling  water 
into  the  chocolate  pot  and  add  six  to  eight  ounces  of  best  choco- 
late broken  in  fine  pieces,  set  on  stove,  and  stir  well  until  all  is 
dissolved ;  then  add  one  quart  of  hot  milk  and  allow  to  boil  for 
about  ten  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve  You  can  use  one 
quart  hot  water  instead  of  the  milk. 

Cocoa. — Take  six  to  eight  ounces  of  good  cocoa  and  dissolve 
it  in  a  little  cold  water  until  it  is  like  a  paste ;  stir  this  paste  into 
a  pot  containing  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  allow  it  to  boil  for 
about  twenty  minutes ;  add  a  pint  of  milk,  and  boil  five  or  six 
minutes  longer;  stir  frequently;  sweeten  to  suit  the  taste. 

Lady  Fingers  (from  the  French}. — Beat  well  together  one- 
half  coffee  cup  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  yolk  of  five  eggs  in  a 
bowl.  Beat  constantly  with  a  wooden  spoon  for  five  minutes ; 
put  the  whites  of  the  eggs  into  a  basin  and  with  a  whip  beat 
them  to  a  stiff  froth ;  add  to  the  sugar  and  yolks  one  coffee  cup 
of  sifted  flour ;  mix  together  gently  for  a  moment  and  immedi- 
ately add  the  whites ;  beat  gently  for  one  minute  more  and  the 
preparation  will  be  ready.  Take  a  well-cleaned  pastry  bag,  in- 
sert a  No.  2  tube,  and  with  a  small  skimmer  pour  the  prepara- 
tion into  the  bag.  When  it  is  all  in,  close  the  upper  part  of  the 
bag  very  firmly  and  lay  it  aside  for  a  few  moments.  Take  two 
separate  sheets  of  vanilla  brown  paper,  each  eighteen  inches  long 
by  six  inches  wide ;  lay  them  on  the  table,  one  beside  the  other. 
Take  hold  of  the  lower  part  of  the  bag  near  the  tube  with  the 
left  hand,  with  the  right  hand  press  out  the  paste  in  proper  shapes 
on  the  paper,  and  lay  the  paper  in  a  baking  pan  and  let  rest  for 
a  few  minutes ;  then  put  in  a  slow  oven  and  bake  from  eighteen 
to  twenty  minutes,  or  until  they  are  a  light  golden  color.  Re- 
move them  from  the  paper  as  directed  for  macaroons,  page  463. 


ICE  CREAM  AND  WATER  ICES. 


Plain  Ice  Cream  (without  a  Freezer). — Scald  two  quarts 
of  fresh  milk,  add  a  pint  of  rich  cream,  stirring  in  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  corn- starch  ;  stir  well  to  keep  from  burning.  Beat 
up  four  to  eight  eggs,  according  to  convenience,  and  pour  the 
scalding  milk  on  the  eggs,  stirring  well.  When  cold  add  sugar, 
essence  of  lemon  or  extract  of  vanilla  to  suit  the  taste,  and  a  very 
little  salt.  Pour  the  cold  contents  into  a  deep  tin  pail  or  can 
holding  about  three  quarts  ;  put  on  the  cover  and  set  in  an  or- 
dinary water  pail.  Pound  up  ice  to  the  size  of  hens'  eggs  and 
less — some,  of  course,  will  be  quite  fine ;  pack  it  around  the  tin 
can,  mixing  in  about  one  pint  of  either  medium  or  fine  salt ;  pack 
this  till  it  reaches  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  can  containing  the 
mixture  to  be  frozen,  but  be  careful  none  enters  it.  Now  move 
the  tin  can  or  pail  around  by  means  of  its  bail,  lifting  the  cover 
occasionally  to  scrape  off  the  frozen  cream  on  the  inside,  so  that 
other  portions  may  come  in  contact  with  the  freezing  surface. 
From  twenty- five  to  thirty  minutes  will  be  sufficient,  and  the  dish 
may  be  served  up  at  once  or  set  away,  without  removing  from  the 
wooden  pail,  in  a  cool  place  for  several  hours  covered  with  a 
flannel  cloth. 

Cocoanut  Ice  Cream. — Take  four  cups  of  rich  cream,  two 
cups  of  milk,  three  eggs,  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar  and  one 
cupful  of  grated  cocoanut,  the  rind  and  juice  of  a  lemon.  Beat 
together  the  eggs  and  grated  lemon  rind  and  put  with  the  milk 


470  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

in  a  double  boiler.  Stir  until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken. 
Add  the  cocoanut  and  put  away  to  cool ;  when  cool  add  the 
sugar,  lemon  juice  and  cream.  Freeze. 

Ice  Cream. — For  a  four-quart  freezer  take  two  and  one-half 
quarts  of  milk  and  boil  in  it  a  small  handful  of  Irish  moss  or  one- 
half  paper  of  gelatine.  When  cold  add  one  quart  of  cream  and 
the  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  to  a  foam.  Flavor  with  vanilla, 
beat  the  mixture  for  one-half  hour  and  freeze. 

Pineapple  Ice  Cream. — Take  one  common-sized  pineapple, 
slice  and  bruise  it,  and  sprinkle  with  pulverized  sugar.  Let  it 
stand  one-half  hour  or  more  to  extract  the  flavor ;  then  strain  it 
into  the  cream.  One  pineapple  is  sufficient  for  four  quarts  of 
cream.  Use  one-half  pound  of  sugar  to  each  quart  of  cream. 
Freeze. 

Strawberry  Ice  Cream. — For  four  quarts  of  cream  take  one 
quart  of  strawberries,  bruise  and  sprinkle  them  with  sugar,  and 
then  proceed  as  with  pineapple.  In  using  fruits  always  have 
enough  to  thicken  the  cream  slightly  and  impart  a  good  flavor. 

Plain  Ice  Cream. — The  sort  of  ice  cream  usually  made  at 
home  is  composed  of  milk  with  a  small  portion  of  cream,  with 
eggs  and  sugar  added  to  it;  for  instance,  dissolve  half  a  pound  of 
sugar  in  a  quart  of  milk,  place  it  over  the  fire  and  let  it  heat  to 
the  boiling  point;  meantime  beat  three  eggs  to  a  cream,  pour  the 
boiling  milk  into  them,  and  then  return  to  the  fire  and  stir  it  until 
it  begins  to  thicken  ;  then  at  once  remove  it  from  the  fire,  stir  it 
until  it  is  smooth ;  then  flavor  it,  cool  it,  and  when  it  is  cool  freeze 
it  in  the  usual  way. 

Chocolate  Ice  Cream.— Beat  two  eggs  very  light,  whip  them 
with  two  cupfuls  of  sugar;  heat  two  coffeecupfuls  of  milk  and  stir 
into  the  eggs  and  sugar  a  little  at  a  time,  mixing  it  well;  add  one- 
half  a  cupful  of  grated  chocolate  ;  place  on  stove  and  heat  until 
it  thickens,  stirring  all  the  time ;  then  remove  from  the  stove  and 
set  aside  to  cool ;  when  cold,  freeze. 


Ice  Cream  and  Water  Ices.  471 

Champagne  Ice. — Have  ready  a  freezer,  as  directed  in  the 
recipes  for  freezing  ices  and  creams.  Make  a  very  strong,  sweet 
lemonade  and  half  freeze  it,  then  mix  with  a  quart  bottle  of  good 
champagne  after  the  lemonade  is  half  frozen  ;  close  the  freezer 
again  quickly,  and  freeze  the  ice.  In  mixing  the  champagne 
with  the  lemon  ice,  open  the  champagne  quickly,  pour  it  at  once 
into  the  freezer,  close  it  without  stirring  it,  because  the  mixer  in- 
side the  freezer  will  do  that,  and  then  turn  the  freezer  until  the 
ice  is  hard  enough  to  serve  ;  the  utmost  expedition  must  be  used 
in  opening  and  mixing  the  champagne  with  the  lemon  ice,  be- 
cause its  volatile  gas  escapes  so  rapidly ;  and  the  freezer  must  be 
kept  closed  and  well  packed  with  ice  until  the  champagne  ice  is 
served. 

Berry  Ice. — Squeeze  enough  berries  in  a  jelly  bag  to  make  a 
pint  of  juice  ;  add  a  pint  of  water  and  a  pint  of  sugar,  let  it  come 
to  a  boil  and  stir  into  it  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff 
froth  ;  whip  this  mixture  together  thoroughly;  when  cool,  freeze 
in  the  usual  way.  Currants,  raspberries,  strawberries  or  any 
juicy  fruit  can  be  done  in  the  same  way. 

Water  Ices. — The  finer  water  ices  are  made  up  of  syrup  and 
fruit  juice  frozen  ;  the  syrup  is  prepared  by  boiling  together  four 
pounds  of  sugar,  one  quart  of  water,  and  the  white  of  an  egg 
beaten  with  them  for  ten  minutes  ;  the  syrup  is  then  strained  and 
cooled ;  for  ices  a  palatable  mixture  is  made  with  fruit  juice,  and 
when  it  is  half  frozen  the  beaten  white  of  one  egg  is  added. 

Lemon  Ice. — Take  the  grated  rind  of  three  lemons  and  the 
juice  of  five  large  lemons,  a  large  sweet  orange,  using  both  the 
juice  and  the  rind  ;  squeeze  out  all  the  juices  first,  and  then  steep 
in  it  the  rind  of  the  orange  and  lemons  a  couple  of  hours;  then 
squeeze  and  strain  through  a  cheese  cloth,  add  two  coffee  cups 
of  water  and  two  cupfuls  of  sugar.  Stir  until  dissolved,  turn  into 
a  freezer,  then  proceed  as  for  ice  cream,  only  letting  it  stand 
longer — from  two  to  two  and  one-half  hours.  When  fruit  jellies 


472  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

are  used,  gently  heat  the  water  sufficiently  to  melt  them ;  then 
cool  and  freeze.  Other  flavors  may  be  made  by  the  same  method, 
flavoring  to  suit  the  taste. 

Orange  Ice. — Use  from  two  to  three  oranges,  according  to 
the  size ;  to  every  quart  of  water  add  one  pound  of  white  sugar, 
the  yellow  skin  of  one  orange  and  half  the  skin  of  one  lemon 
grated ;  add  also  the  juice  of  one-half  a  lemon  to  every  two  quarts 
of  water ;  strain  and  freeze.  More  orange  improves  the  flavor. 

Iced  Coffee. — One-half  pint  of  strong  coffee,  one-half  pint 
of  rich  cream,  one-quarter  pound  of  powdered  sugar;  freeze. 

Roman  Punch  a  la  Francaise. — Take  a  quart  of  fruit  syrup, 
and  when  about  half  frozen  add  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten 
stiff  and  three-quarters  of  a  coffee  cup  of  sugar,  also  one  glass  of 
brandy  and  a  glass  of  rum,  and  freeze  as  directed  in  ices.  Use 
only  powdered  sugar,  and  you  can  use  one  coffeecupful  if  desired 
very  sweet. 

Roman  Punch  Glace. — Roman  punch  glace  is  made  by  add- 
ing to  each  quart  of  lemon  ice  made  with  syrup  three  whites  of 
egg  beaten  stiff,  and  one  glass  each  of  brandy,  champagne  and 
maraschino,  and  then  freezing  it  as  described  in  ices. 

Roman  Punch. — Prepare  the  same  as  for  orange  or  any  fruit 
ice,  and  add  brandy  or  Jamaica  rum  before  freezing.  About  a 
half  coffee  cup  of  liquor  to  each  quart  of  fruit  ice  is  the  proper 
proportion,  and  when  ready  to  serve  moisten  each  glass  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  the  liquor  used. 


FROM  THE  FRENCH. 

Peach  Ice  Cream. — Put  in  a  basin  one  coffeecupful  of  pow- 
dered sugar  with  six  egg  yolks,  then  mix  well  for  ten  minutes; 
add  two  cupfuls  of  boiling  milk,  stir  for  two  minutes  longer. 
Place  it  on  a  hot  stove,  and  heat  it  thoroughly,  stirring  continu- 


Ice  Cream  and  Water  Ices.  473 

ally,  but  not  letting  it  boil ;  remove,  lay  it  on  the  table,  and  mix 
in  immediately  two  cupfuls  of  sweet  cream  ;  then  leave  it  to  cool 
for  about  half  an  hour.  Take  six  ripe  sound  peaches,  wipe 
them  nicely,  cut  them  in  slices,  remove  the  stones,  then  mash 
them  into  the  cream,  mixing  thoroughly  for  three  minutes ;  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  freezer,  pressing  the  peaches  through 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  proceed  to  freeze.  Other  fruit  ice 
creams  can  be  made  in  the  same  way. 

Tutti-Fruitti  a  la  Francaise— Fruit  Ice  Cream. — Have  in 
separate  freezers  one-half  pint  each  of  strawberry  ice  cream  and 
lemon  water  ice,  and  a  pint  of  vanilla  ice  cream  ;  then  take  one- 
quarter  pound  of  candied  cherries  and  two  whole  candied  apricots ; 
then  cut  both  cherries  and  apricots  in  small  pieces  and  lay  on  a 
plate.  Take  one-half  dozen  tutti-fruitti  molds,  open  each  one 
and  lay  on  cover  of  each  mold  a  spoonful  of  strawberry  ice  cream 
and  lemon  water  ice,  one  beside  the  other;  put  one-sixth  part  of 
the  candied  fruits  into  the  ice  cream  on  the  cover  of  each  mold, 
and  then  fill  the  bottom  of  each  mold  with  vanilla  ice  cream ; 
inclose  them  firmly,  put  them  at  once  in  a  pail  having  broken 
ice  and  rock  salt  at  bottom,  and  cover  pail  entirely  with  broken 
ice  and  salt,  letting  freeze  for  one  hour;  at  the  expiration  of  that 
time  have  a  vessel  of  warm  water  ready,  lift  out  the  molds,  wash 
them  off  quickly  with  the  water,  take  out  the  cream,  and  put  on 
dessert  plates  ready  to  serve. 

Lemon  Ice  Cream. — Put  one  coffeecupful  of  powdered  sugar 
into  a  vessel ;  grate  in  the  rind  of  two  lemons,  add  the  whites  of 
four  eggs.  Beat  well  with  a  whip  for  two  minutes,  then  add  a 
pint  of  cold  milk,  stirring  again  for  one  minute.  Place  the  basin 
on  the  hot  stove,  stir  briskly  with  the  whip,  and  take  it  off  when 
coming  to  a  boil,  lay  it  on  the  table,  and  pour  in  a  pint  of  sweet 
cream,  mixing  well  for  two  minutes.  Let  it  cool  for  half  an 
hour,  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  freezer,  and  freeze 
well  and  solid. 


474  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Napolitaine  Ice  Cream.— Take  a  pint  each  of  vanilla  and 
strawberry  ice  cream  and  a  pint  of  raspberry  water  ice,  or  other 
fruit  ice  if  preferred.  Take  a  brick  form  holding  three  pints,  put 
at  the  bottom  of  this  the  raspberry  water  ice,  arrange  the  vanilla 
ice  cream  on  top,  and  fill  up  with  the  strawberry ;  then  cover 
tightly.  Take  a  pail  with  broken  ice  mixed  with  rock  salt  at  the 
bottom,  lay  the  form  over,  and  fill  up  the  pail  with  more  ice  and 
salt,  and  let  freeze  for  two  hours.  Plunge  the  form  in  warm 
water  to  wash  off  the  ice  and  salt,  and  unmold  the  ice  cream 
onto  a  piece  of  paper  laid  on  the  table.  Dip  knife  in  warm  water, 
cut  the  brick  lengthwise  through  the  center,  then  each  piece  into 
three,  so  that  the  Napolitaine  will  be  divided  into  six  equal-sized 
square  pieces,  each  one  having  the  three  kinds  of  cream,  and 
serve. 

If  desiring  to  form  any  of  the  ice  creams  into  "bricks,"  pro- 
ceed as  directed  in  Napolitaine  ice  cream. 

Cherry  Water  Ice. — Select  one  pound  of  nice  solid  sour 
cherries;  put  them  in  a  vessel,  after  picking  off  the  stems  nicely, 
with  one  coffeecupful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  squeeze  in  the 
juice  of  three  fine  lemons.  Mix  well  with  wooden  spoon  for  five 
minutes,  then  add  a  quart  of  cold  water,  stirring  the  mixture  for 
two  minutes  longer,  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  into  the  ice 
cream  freezer,  pressing  the  cherries  down  with  a  wooden  spoon. 
Proceed  to  freeze  in  the  usual  manner.  Other  fruit  ices  can  be 
made  by  the  same  method. 

Punch  a  la  Royale. — Put  in  a  bowl  one  cupful  of  powdered 
sugar,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  three  fine  sound  large  lemons  and 
the  juice  of  a  good  large  orange,  and  mix  thoroughly  together 
for  three  minutes.  Add  one  cupful  of  cold  water,  half  a  cupful 
of  kirsch,  and  stir  for  five  minutes  more;  then  strain  through  a 
fine  sieve  into  the  ice  cream  freezer,  remove  the  sieve,  and  pour 
into  the  freezer  half  a  gill  of  fine  rum,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine 
French  cognac,  and  one  cup  of  champagne.  Cover  immediately 


Ice  Cream  and  Water  Ices.  475 

with  the  lid,  and  place  the  freezer  in  an  ice  cream  tub,  filling  the 
latter  all  round  with  broken  ice  mixed  with  rock  salt ;  then  with 
the  handle  on  the  cover  turn  as  rapidly  as  possible  three  or  four 
minutes;  wipe  the  cover  neatly,  uncover,  and  with  a  wooden 
spoon  detach  the  punch  from  the  sides  of  the  freezer,  as  also  from 
the  bottom;  cover  again,  turn  the  handle  for  three  or  four 
minutes  more,  uncover,  detach  the  punch  as  before ;  cover,  and 
repeat  this  three  timt  s.  Fill  six  punch  glasses  with  the  punch, 
arrange  them  on  plates,  and  serve.  Always  use  a  clean  wooden 
spoon  for  mixing. 


CANDIES. 


To  made  Fondant,  which  is  the  Foundation  of  all  French 
Candies. — Make  a  syrup  of  one  pound  of  sugar  to  one  small  cup 
of  water,  stirring  only  to  mix.  When  boiled  ten  minutes,  dip 
fork  in  to  see  if  it  hairs.  Take  care  not  to  stir  syrup  after  it 
boils.  When  just  cool  enough  to  dip  in  your  fingers,  beat  as 
rapidly  as  possible ;  when  too  stiff  to  beat  longer,  work  with 
hands  like  dough,  so  it  has  a  perfect  smooth  foundation,  and  lay 
away  until  ready  to  use.  Then  when  you  wish  to  make  the 
cream  of  French  candies,  melt  the  fondant  in  a  cup,  standing  cup 
in  boiling  water.  Stir  constantly  till  like  cream ;  then  remove 
cup  from  hot  water ;  then  take  nuts  or  fruit,  dip  in  this  cream, 
and  lay  on  waxed  paper  until  perfectly  dry,  and  then  put  away 
in  boxes,  in  layers.  The  sugar  to  use  in  making  French  candies 
is  the  confectioners'  decorating  sugar,  which  is  the  fine  powdered. 

To  make  Walnnt  Cream  Candy,  Dates  and  Fruit  Creams.— 
Take  the  white  of  an  egg,  as  much  water  as  egg,  add  a  little  salt, 
and  a  little  vanilla  and  a  little  brandy,  stir  (not  beat]  into  this 
enough  of  the  sugar  mentioned  to  form  a  cream,  or  until  a  fork 
will  stand  up  straight  in  it.  Then  just  place  a  little  on  kernel  of 
nuts  on  each  side  and  press  gently.  Take  stone  from  date  and 
do  in  same  manner.  Other  fruits  can  be  treated  in  the  same 
manner. 

Nut  Creams. — Make  the  French  cream,  and  before  putting 
all  the  sugar  into  it  add  the  nuts,  and  when  done  form  them  into 
balls.  Hickory  nuts,  butternuts,  walnuts  or  almonds  may  be 
used,  or  several  kinds  of  nuts  may  be  mixed  together. 

Molasses  Candy. — Two  cupfuls  of  molasses,  one  of  sugar,  one 


Candies.  477 

tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  a  piece  of  butter  size  of  a  walnut.  Boil 
briskly  and  constantly  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time. 
When  cool  enough,  pull  it  quickly  till  it  is  white. 

Strawberry  Cream. — Take  a  teaspoon ful  of  stawberry  jam, 
and  stir  into  it  enough  confectioners'  sugar  to  make  a  thick  paste; 
roll  it  into  balls,  put  a  lump  of  French  cream  into  a  cup,  and  set 
the  cup  in  a  basin  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  it  until  it  melts.  Put 
a  few  drops  of  the  strawberry  juice  into  the  cream  to  make  it  a 
pale  pink,  being  careful  not  to  use  too  much,  as  it  will  prevent  the 
cream  from  hardening.  Now  dip  the  little  balls  into  the  cream 
giving  them  two  coats.  Lay  them  on  buttered  plates  to  harden. 
Remember,  the  melted  cream  must  be  kept  stirred,  or  it  will  turn 
to  clear  syrup. 

Chocolate  Creams. — Four  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  one 
cupful  of  water,  boil  hard  eight  minutes,  flavor  while  hot,  and 
stir  to  a  cream.  Grate  some  chocolate,  and  set  it  over  the  tea 
kettle  (a  little  at  a  time)  to  dissolve.  Then  form  the  cream  into 
balls,  and  roll  on  the  chocolate ;  or,  spread  a  thin  layer  of  choco- 
late on  buttered  paper,  lay  the  balls  of  cream  on  that,  and  with 
a  spoon  turn  some  chocolate  over  them. 

Chocolate  Caramels. — Take  of  grated  chocolate,  milk,  sugar, 
molasses,  one  cupful  of  each,  piece  of  butter  size  of  an  egg ;  boil 
until  it  drops  hard ;  pour  in  buttered  dish  and  before  it  cools 
mark  off  in  square  blocks. 

Candy  Drops. — One  pint  sugar,  one-half  pint  water;  boil 
until  it  cracks  when  dropped  in  cold  water ;  flavor  with  lemon  or 
peppermint,  drop  in  small  drops  on  buttered  paper. 

Roley  Poley  Candy. — Take  four  cupfuls  of  coffee  sugar,  with 
just  enough  vinegar  to  moisten  it,  and  butter  large  as  a  walnut; 
boil  until  it  hardens  but  not  until  it  is  brittle.  Remove  from  the 
fire  and  beat  it  with  a  spoon  eight  or  ten  times ;  then  stir  in  the 
fruit  and  nuts.  Pour  into  a  wet  cloth  and  roll  it  up  like  a  jelly 
cake;  twist  the  ends  of  the  cloth  well  so  that  it  will  form  a  mold 


478  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Set  it  away  and  when  cold  slice  it  up  as  it  may  be  wanted. 
For  this  amount  of  candy  use  one-half  a  pint  of  chopped  citron, 
one-half  a  pint  of  stoned  raisins,  one-half  a  pint  of  blanched 
almonds,  one-half  a  pound  of  chopped  figs,  and  one-half  a  pint  of 
hulled  peanuts. 

Cream  Candy. — One  pound  loaf  sugar,  one  cupful  of  water, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
vanilla,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar,  butter  size  of  an  egg,  boil 
until  it  hardens  when  dropped  in  cold  water.  When  cool  pull 
as  you  would  other  candy. 

Raspberry  Drops. — Use  raspberry  juice  instead  of  water  to 
moisten  the  sugar ;  put  in  a  pan  and  heat ;  do  not  let  it  boil ; 
then  put  in  a  very  little  more  sugar,  and  let  it  warm  with  the 
rest  a  moment ;  then  drop  it  upon  buttered  paper ;  while  heating 
stir  constantly.  Drops  of  this  kind  may  be  made  from  all  kinds 
of  berries. 

Butter  Scotch. — Five  tablespoonfuls  molasses,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  sugar,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  two  tablespoonfuls 
butter;  let  boil  until  when  dropping  a  little  in  cold  water  it  will 
be  brittle.  Put  in  a  pinch  of  soda  before  taking  off  the  stove, 
pour  on  buttered  plates  and  when  cool  enough  mark  in  squares. 

Cream  Candy. — One  pound  white  sugar,  one  cup  water ;  stir 
on  the  stove  until  dissolved  ;  let  it  boil.  When  done  it  will  snap 
if  dropped  in  cold  water.  Do  not  stir  after  the  sugar  is  dissolved. 
When  done  turn  out  on  buttered  plates.  Set  over  cold  water. 
When  it  is  cool  enough  to  handle  pull  quickly  with  the  fingers 
until  brittle.  Season  with  vanilla,  put  in  when  cooling. 

Fig  Candy. — Boil  until  it  colors  one-third  of  a  cupful  of 
water,  one  cupful  of  sugar.  Do  not  stir  while  boiling,  but  just 
before  taking  from  the  stove  stir  in  one-quarter  a  teaspoonful  of 
cream  of  tartar.  Dip  the  figs  in  this  syrup  and  lay  on  buttered 
plates  to  dry. 

Cream  Candy. — Two  cupfuls   of  white  sugar,  one  cupful  of 


Candies.  479 

light  brown  sugar,  one-half  cupful  of  vinegar  filled  with  cold 
water ;  boil  as  you  would  molasses  candy.  A  few  minutes  before 
taking  it  off  the  stove  add  one  tablespoonful  of  baking  powder. 
Flavor  with  vanilla.  Cool,  and  pull. 

Sugar  Candy. — Take  three  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  two  - 
thirds  of  a  cup  of  water,  one-half  cupful  of  vinegar.  Boil  (but  do 
not  stir)  till  it  will  harden  by  being  dropped  in  water.  Take  it 
from  the  stove,  and  flavor  with  lemon  juice  or  extract  of  lemon. 
Spread  on  pans ;  and,  when  cool,  pull  till  it  is  white. 

Honey  Candy — Three  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  water, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  honey. 

Taffy. — Melt  in  a  stew  pan  three  ounces  of  butter,  one  pound 
moist  sugar.  Stir  well  over  a  slow  fire,  boil  fifteen  minutes. 
Pour  out  on  a  buttered  dish  and  mark  in  squares. 

Molasses  Candy. — One-half  pound  of  sugar,  one- quarter 
pound  of  butter,  one  quart  of  molasses ;  boil  until  it  will  crack 
by  dropping  a  little  in  cold  water.  Pour  out  on  buttered  dish  ; 
when  cool  it  can  be  pulled  until  white. 

Chocolate  Caramels. — One  cupful  of  milk,  one  cupful  of 
brown  sugar,  one  cupful  of  molasses,  one  cupful  of  grated 
chocolate ;  add  a  piece  of  butter  of  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  boil 
all  together,  without  stirring,  until  done.  Test  it  by  dropping  a 
little  in  cold  water. 

Caramels. — One  and  one-half  pounds  of  brown  sugar,  one 
scant  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  three-quarters  of  a  cake  of 
Baker's  chocolate,  and  one  cupful  of  milk.  Boil  it  twenty 
minutes.  As  you  take  it  off,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla, 
pour  it  on  buttered  dishes,  and  cut  it  in  squares  after  the  surface 
is  a  little  cool. 

Maple  Caramels. — One  pound  of  maple  sugar  melted  in  a  cup 
of  sweet  milk,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  boil  until  when  a 
little  is  dropped  in  cold  water  it  will  be  almost  brittle.  Turn  out 
on  buttered  plates,  and  when  cool  enough  mark  in  squares. 


480  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Fruit  Creams. — Raisins  seeded,  currants,  figs  and  citron, 
chopped  fine,  and  mixed  with  the  uncooked  "French  Cream," 
while  soft,  before  the  sugar  is  all  mixed  in,  makes  a  delicious 
variety. 

Cocoanut  Caramels. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  with  enough 
water  to  boil  it.  When  ready  to  take  off,  put  in  one  cupful  of 
cocoanut,  with  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Flavor  with  vanilla. 

Cocoanut  Balls. — Two  cupfuls  of  grated  cocoanut,  one  cupful 
of  powdered  sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  whites  of  two 
eggs.  Roll  in  small  balls,  and  bake  quickly. 

Lemon  Drops. — Pour  enough  lemon  juice  over  one-half  a 
pound  of  powdered  sugar  to  dissolve  it,  put  it  in  a  pan  and  boil 
to  a  thick  syrup  ;  drop  a  little  in  cold  water  and  when  it  is  brittle 
it  is  done.  Then  drop  on  buttered  plates  in  small  drops  and  set 
away  to  cool  and  harden. 

Kisses. — The  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir 
in  enough  pulverized  sugar  to  form  a  stiff  paste,  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  the  extract  of  lemon.  Drop  upon  new  tins  buttered 
as  lightly  as  possible.  Drop  the  size  of  a  half  dollar.  When 
done,  let  them  stand  a  short  time  before  slipping  off. 

Butter  Scotch. — Take  one  pound  of  sugar  and  one  pint  of 
water  ;  dissolve,  and  boil.  When  done,  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
butter,  and  enough  lemon  juice  and  the  oil  of  lemon  to  flavor. 

Variegated  Cream  Candy. — Make  a  cream  fondant  (see  page 
476),  and  divide  into  three  parts,  leaving  one  part  white,  color 
one  pink,  and  the  third  part  color  brown  with  chocolate,  which 
is  done  by  just  letting  the  cream  soften  and  stirring  in  a  little 
finely  grated  chocolate.  The  pink  is  colored  by  dropping  in  a 
few  drops  of  cochineal  syrup  or  berry  juice  while  the  cream  is 
warm,  and  beating  it  in.  Take  the  white  cream,  make  a  flat  ball 
of  it  and  lay  it  upon  a  buttered  dish,  and  roll  it  out  flat  until 


Candies.  48 1 

about  half  an  inch  thick.  If  it  does  not  work  easily,  dip  the  hand 
in  alcohol.  Work  the  other  in  the  same  way  as  the  white  and  lay 
it  upon  the  white ;  then  the  chocolate  in  the  same  manner,  and 
lay  upon  the  pink,  pressing  all  together  gently.  Trim  the 
edges  smooth,  leaving  it  in  a  nice  square  cake,  then  cut  into 
slices  or  shaped  as  you  prefer.  It  is  necessary  to  work  all 
rapidly  to  insure  success. 

To  prevent  Syrups  for  Making  Candies  from  Burning 
while  Boiling. — To  avoid  this  put  in  your  vessel  with  any  of  the 
above  compounds  three  or  four  agate  or  white  stone  marbles  ;  the 
heat  will  keep  them  rolling  and  prevent  the  scorching  or  burning 
which  often  happens,  and  this  does  away  with  the  constant 
stirring. 

To  prevent  Sugar  and  Fruit  Syrups,  also  Molasses,  from 
Overflowing  or  Rising  too  high. — Butter  well  the  inside  of  a 
vessel,  about  two  inches  from  the  top ;  this  will  prevent  the 
syrup  from  rising  higher  than  where  it  is  buttered. 

Candies  Without  Cooking. — Many  candies  and  confections 
are  made  without  boiling.  The  method  is  very  simple  and  they 
are  equal  to  the  best.  The  secret  lies  in  the  sugar  used,  which 
should  be  powdered  or  confectioners'  XXX  sugar.  Powdered 
has  a  decided  grain,  but  the  confectioners'  sugar  is  fine  as  flour. 


To  crystalize  fruits  and  nuts,  see  page  92. 

The  French  methods  of  candying  fruits  and  making  marron 
glace  (candied  chestnuts),  see  page  91. 

The  French  method  of  boiling  syrups  for  candies  and  other 
confections,  see  page  90. 

In  boiling  syrups  for  confections,  when  done  they  should  be 


482  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

taken   from  the  fire  and  bottom  of  vessel  set  in  ice  water ;  this 
will  prevent  sugar  from  discoloring. 

Burned  Sugar. — Put  in  a  small  iron  pan  one  pound  of  granu- 
lated  sugar,  place  over  a  slow  fire  and  allow  to  burn  thoroughly 
for  about  one-half  hour.  Take  from  fire  and  allow  to  cool  for 
about  five  minutes.  Then  add  two  coffeecups  of  boiling  water 
and  stir  thoroughly  with  iron  spoon.  Place  the  pan  on  the  stove 
and  boil  five  minutes  more  ;  strain  the  sugar  through  a  fine  sieve 
and  when  perfectly  cold  put  in  fruit  jars  and  seal.  This  will  keep 
for  weeks. 


FOOD  FOR  THE  SICK. 


The  preparation  of  food  for  the  sick  and  convalescent  requires 
skill  and  great  care.  As  the  purpose  of  food  is  to  supply  the 
material  for  remedying  the  waste  which  continually  takes  place  in 
the  human  system,  hence  it  follows  that  the  food  should  be  selected 
for  its  nutritive  value.  In  illness  and  convalescence,  as  the  waste 
is  often  greater  and  the  vital  power  less  active,  it  is  of  the  greatest 
importance  that  such  food  should  be  selected,  and  also  properly 
prepared,  which  gives  the  greatest  amount  of  nutrition.  It  should 
also  be  palatable  and  easily  assimilated. 

Nor  does  it  always  follow  that  the  most  nutritious  food  is  the 
best  to  be  given  in  times  of  sickness.  As  food  may  contain  all 
the  elements  of  nutrition  which  would  be  wholesome  for  those  in 
good  health  and  yet  not  be  the  proper  food  for  the  sick,  for  the 
reason  that  its  proper  conversion  into  blood  and  tissue  depends 
a  great  deal  upon  the  digestive  organs,  it  should  be  a  part  of  the 
education  of  every  mother  and  housekeeper  to  be  able  to  dis- 
criminate as  to  the  proper  food  and  the  required  amount  to  be 
given  in  time  of  sickness;  and  when  this  is  not  the  case  the 
physician's  orders  should  be  strictly  followed. 

There  can  be  no  special  dishes  that  would  suit  for  all  cases. 
While  tea,  jellies,  buttered  toast  and  other  dainties  might  be  the 
proper  food  to  serve  in  some  cases,  they  might  again  be  the  worst 
articles  of  diet  that  the  patient  could  take. 

The  lightest  and  simplest  foods  are  considered  the  best,  and 
should  be  served  in  small  orders  and  in  a  dainty  manner,  so  as 
to  be  more  appetizing  to  the  invalid. 

The  seasoning  of  the  food  should  be  varied  according  to  the 
condition  of  the  patient.  The  convalescent  can  be  served  with 
nicely  broiled  steak  or  mutton  chop,  chicken,  fish,  well-cooked 


484  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

gruel,  plain  puddings  or  any  light  foods  that  are  easily  digested. 
In  the  use  of  all  milk  foods  the  condition  of  the  patient  should 
be  considered,  as  long  cooking  makes  the  milk  constipating;  and 
if  the  patient  should  be  constipated  the  milk  should  only  be  heated 
to  the  boiling  point. 

GRUELS  FOR  THE  SICK. 

These  are  some  of  the  most  important  articles  of  diet  for  the 
sick,  and  great  care  should  be  exercised  in  the  preparation  of 
them.  Some  of  the  manufactured  compounds  now  on  the 
market,  whose  chief  merit  is  that  they  can  be  cooked  in  a  few 
minutes,  should  be  avoided.  As  grains  and  cereal  foods  require 
long  cooking,  when  done  they  should  possess  all  the  nutritive 
qualities  of  the  grain  and  be  easily  assimilated. 

The  preparation  and  cooking  of  grains  and  cereal  foods,  as 
given  in  this  volume,  headed  Grains  and  Cereal  Foods,  should 
be  strictly  followed.  All  grains  and  cereal  foods  should  be  eaten 
with  wafers,  toast  or  other  hard  food,  if  allowed. 

Barley  Gruel. — Wash  three  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  pearl 
barley,  drop  it  into  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  parboil  five  min- 
utes. Pour  this  water  off  and  add  a  quart  of  fresh  boiling  water. 
Let  it  simmer  gently  for  three  hours ;  strain,  season  and  serve. 
A  small  piece  of  lemon  rind  added  to  the  gruel  half  an  hour 
before  it  is  done  gives  it  a  very  agreeable  flavor.  Equal  quan- 
tities of  milk  and  barley  gruel  make  a  very  nourishing  drink ;  the 
milk,  however,  should  not  be  added  to  the  gruel  until  needed,  as 
in  a  warm  atmosphere  it  undergoes  quite  a  rapid  change  and  is 
likely  to  ferment. 

Farina  Gruel. — Moisten  two  tablespoonfuls  of  farina  with  a 
very  little  cold  milk,  and  stir  it  into  a  cupful  of  boiling  water. 
Boil  until  it  thickens,  add  a  cupful  of  new  milk,  turn  into  a  double 
boiler,  and  cook  again  for  twenty  or  thirty  minutes.  Strain  if 
necessary ;  season  with  salt  or  sugar,  and  serve. 


Food  for  the  Sick,  485 

Oatmeal  Gruel. — Put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  best  grits 
(oatmeal  coarsely  ground)  into  a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Let  it 
boil  gently  and  stir  it  often  till  it  becomes  as  thick  as  you  wish  it. 
Then  strain  it  and  add  to  it,  while  warm,  butter,  wine,  nutmeg, 
or  whatever  is  thought  proper  to  flavor  it.  Salt  to  taste. 

If  you  make  the  gruel  of  fine  oatmeal,  sift  it,  mix  it  first  to  a 
thick  batter  with  a  little  cold  water,  and  then  put  it  into  the 
saucepan  of  boiling  water.  Stir  it  all  the  time  it  is  boiling,  lifting 
the  spoon  gently  up  and  down,  and  letting  the  gruel  fall  slowly 
back  again  into  the  pan. 

Flour  Gruel. — Rub  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  whole- wheat 
flour  to  a  thin  paste  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  milk,  and 
stir  it  into  a  pint  of  boiling  milk.  Cook  for  ten  or  twelve  min- 
utes. Season  with  salt,  strain  if  necessary,  and  while  hot  stir  in 
the  beaten  white  of  one  egg.  The  egg  may  be  omitted  if  preferred  ; 
or  the  yolk  of  the  egg  and  a  little  sugar  may  be  used  instead,  if 
the  patient's  condition  will  allow  it. 

Gluten  Meal  Gruel. — Into  a  cup  and  a  half  of  boiling  water 
stir  four  tablespoonfuls  of  gluten  meal ;  let  it  boil  for  a  moment, 
add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  rather  thin  sweet  cream  and  serve. 

Gruel. — This  simple  refreshment  is  invaluable  in  sickness,  and 
is  made  with  little  trouble  and  less  expense,  yet  it  is  scarcely  ever 
prepared  exactly  right.  One  tablespoonful  of  fine  Indian  meal  or 
oatmeal  mixed  smooth  with  cold  water  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt ; 
pour  upon  this  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  turn  into  a  saucepan 
to  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour;  thin  it  with  boiling  water  if  it  thick- 
ens too  much,  and  stir  frequently;  when  it  is  done  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  cream  or  a  little  new  milk  may  be  put  in  to  cool  it  after 
straining,  but  if  the  patient's  stomach  is  weak  it  is  best  without 
either. 

Corn-meal  Gruel. — Two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine  Indian  meal 
mixed  smooth  with  cold  water  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt ;  add  one 
quart  of  boiling  water  and  cook  twenty  minutes.  Stir  it  fre- 


486  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

quently,  and  if  it  becomes  too  thick,  use  boiling  water  to  thin  it. 
If  the  stomach  is  not  too  weak,  a  tablespoonful  of  cream  may  be 
used  to  cool  it.  Some  like  it  sweetened  and  others  like  it  plain. 
For  very  sick  persons  let  it  settle,  pour  off  the  top  and  give  with- 
out other  seasoning.  For  convalescents,  toast  a  piece  of  bread  as 
nicely  as  possible,  and  put  it  in  the  gruel  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  nice  sweet  cream  and  a  little  ginger  and  sugar.  This  should 
be  used  only  when  a  laxative  is  allowed. 

Egg  Gruel. — Heat  a  cup  of  milk  to  boiling,  and  stir  into  it 
one  well-beaten  egg  mixed  with  one-fourth  cup  of  cold  milk ; 
stir  constantly  for  a  few  minutes  till  thickened,  but  do  not  allow 
it  to  boil  again.  Season  with  a  little  salt,  or  if  preferred  and 
allowed,  a  little  loaf  sugar. 

Arrowroot  Milk  Porridge. — One  large  cupful  of  fresh  milk, 
new  if  you  can  get  it;  one  cupful  of  boiling  water,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  arrowroot  wet  to  a  paste  with  cold  water,  two  teaspoon  - 
fuls  of  white  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt.  Put  the  sugar  into  the 
milk,  the  salt  into  the  boiling  water,  which  should  be  poured  into 
a  farina  kettle.  Add  the  wet  arrowroot  and  boil,  stirring  con- 
stantly until  it  is  clear ;  put  in  the  milk  and  cook  ten  minutes, 
stirring  often.  Give  while  warm,  adding  hot  milk  should  it  be 
thicker  than  gruel. 

MILK  DIET. 

Milk  diet  is  of  great  advantage  in  cases  of  sickness.  It  is 
generally  necessary  to  begin  the  use  of  milk  in  small  quantities 
and  gradually  increase  them.  Milk  is  easily  digested,  and  can 
be  taken  oftener  than  any  other  article  of  food. 

Hot  Milk. — Hot  milk  is  an  excellent  food  for  many  classes 
of  invalids.  The  milk  should  be  fresh,  and  should  be  heated  in  a 
double  boiler  until  the  top  is  wrinkled  over  the  entire  surface. 

Milk  Porridge. — Same  as  arrowroot,  except  that   it  should 


Food  for  the  Sick.  487 

be  all  milk  and  thickened  with  a  scant  tablespoonful  of  sifted 
flour;  let  it  boil  five  minutes,  stirring  it  continually;  add  a  little 
cold  milk,  give  it  one  boil  up,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Albumenized  Milk.— Shake  together  in  a  well- corked  bottle 
or  glass  fruit  jar  a  pint  of  fresh  milk  and  the  well-beaten  whites 
of  two  eggs,  until  thoroughly  mixed.  Serve  at  once. 

Milk  and  Lime  Water. — In  cases  where  milk  forms  large 
curds,  or  sours  in  the  stomach,  lime  water  prepared  in  the  follow- 
ing manner  may  be  added  to  the  milk  before  using :  Into  a  gal- 
lon jar  of  water  put  a  piece  of  lime  the  size  of  one's  fist.  Cover 
the  jar  and  let  the  lime  settle  over  night.  In  the  morning  draw 
the  water  off  the  top  with  a  siphon,  being  careful  not  to  move  the 
jar  so  as  to  mix  again  the  particles  of  lime  with  the  water. 

Milk  and  Pepsin. — Heat  a  cup  of  fresh  milk  to  eighty-five 
degrees,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  the  essence  of  pepsin,  and  stir 
just  enough  to  mix  thoroughly.  Let  it  stand  until  firmly  curded, 
and  serve. 


JELLIES  AND  DESSERTS  FOR  THE  SICK. 

Chicken  Jelly. — Cook  a  chicken  in  enough  water  to  little 
more  than  cover  it ;  let  it  stew  gently  until  the  meat  drops  from 
the  bones  and  the  broth  is  reduced  to  about  a  pint ;  season  it  to 
taste  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Strain  and  press,  first  through 
a  colander,  then  through  a  coarse  cloth.  Set  it  over  the  fire  again 
and  cook  a  few  minutes  longer.  Turn  it  into  an  earthen  vegetable 
dish  to  harden ;  set  it  on  the  ice  in  the  refrigerator.  Eat  cold  in 
slices.  Nice  made  into  sandwiches,  with  thin  slices  of  bread 
lightly  spread  with  butter. 

Arrowroot  Jelly.— Rub  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  arrow- 
root smooth  in  a  very  little  cold  water,  and  stir  it  into  a  cupful  of 
boiling  water,  in  which  should  be  dissolved  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
sugar.  Stir  until  clear,  allowing  it  to  boil  all  the  time ;  lastly, 


488  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Serve  cold,  with  cream  and 
sugar  if  allowed. 

Calves'-foot  Jelly. — Boil  four  nicely  cleaned  calves'  feet  in 
three  quarts  of  water  until  reduced  to  one,  very  slowly ;  strain 
and  set  away  until  cold,  then  take  off  the  fat  from  the  top  and 
remove  the  jelly  into  a  stew  pan,  avoiding  the  settlings  and  add- 
ing half  a  pound  of  white  powdered  sugar,  the  juice  of  two  lemons, 
and  the  whites  of  two  eggs — the  latter  to  make  it  transparent. 
Boil  all  together  a  few  moments  and  set  away  in  bowls  or  glasses; 
it  is  excellent  in  a  sick-room. 

Iceland  MOSS  Jelly. — Wash  about  four  ounces  of  moss  very 
clean  in  lukewarm  water.  Boil  slowly  in  a  quart  of  cold  water. 
When  quite  dissolved,  strain  it  onto  a  tablespoonful  of  currant  or 
raspberry  jelly,  stirring  so  as  to  blend  the  jelly  perfectly  with  the 
moss.  Turn  into  a  mold  and  cool. 

Iceland  Moss  Blanc-Mange. — Substitute  milk  for  the  water, 
and  proceed  as  in  the  foregoing.  Flavor  with  lemon  or  vanilla. 
Strain  through  a  muslin  cloth,  turn  into  a  mold,  and  let  stand 
till  firm  and  cold. 

Tapioca  Jelly. — Soak  a  cupful  of  tapioca  in  a  quart  of  cold 
water,  after  washing  it  thoroughly  two  or  three  times ;  after  soak- 
ing three  or  four  hours,  simmer  it  in  a  stew  pan  until  it  becomes 
quite  clear,  stirring  often  ;  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  little 
of  the  grated  peel,  also  a  pinch  of  salt.  Sweeten  to  taste.  Wine 
can  be  substituted  for  lemon,  if  liked. 


CUSTARDS  AND  PUDDINGS  FOR  THE  SICK. 

White  Custard.— Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
add  a  little  salt  if  desired,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  A 
bit  of  grated  lemon  rind  may  also  be  used  for  flavoring.  Add 
lastly  a  pint  of  new  milk,  little  by  little,  beating  thoroughly  all 


Food  for  the  Sick.  489 

the  while.  Bake  in  cups,  set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water.  When  firm 
in  the  center,  take  out  and  set  in  a  cool  place. 

Invalid  Cup  Pudding. — One  tablespoonful  of  flour,  one  egg ; 
mix  with  cold  milk  and  a  pinch  of  salt  to  make  a  batter.  Boil 
fifteen  minutes  in  a  buttered  cup.  Serve  with  sauce,  fruit  or 
sugar. 

Tapioca  Cup  Pudding.— This  is  very  light  and  delicate  for 
invalids.  An  even  tablespoonful  of  tapioca  soaked  for  two  hours 
in  nearly  a  cup  of  new  milk.  Stir  into  this  the  yolk  of  a  fresh 
egg,  a  little  sugar,  a  grain  of  salt,  and  bake  in  a  cup  for  fifteen 
minutes.  A  little  jelly  may  be  eaten  with  it,  if  allowed,  or  a  few 
fresh  strawberries. 

Boiled  Rice. — Boil  half  a  cupful  of  rice  in  just  enough  water 
to  cover  it,  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  when  the  water  has 
boiled  nearly  out  and  the  rice  begins  to  look  soft  and  dry,  turn 
over  it  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  rice  is  done 
and  nearly  dry  ;  take  from  the  fire  and  beat  in  a  well-beaten  egg. 
Eat  it  warm  with  cream  and  sugar.  Flavor  to  taste. 

Arrowroot  Blanc-Mange.— Rub  two  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls 
of  best  arrowroot  smooth  in  half  a  cup  of  cold  milk,  and  stir 
slowly  into  two  and  one-half  cups  of  boiling  ne\y  milk.  When  it 
begins  to  thicken,  add  three-fourths  of  a  cup  of  sugar  and  cook, 
stirring  constantly  for  several  minutes.  Turn  into  molds  and 
cool.  Serve  with  fruit  juice  or  fruit  sauces. 


BEEF  TEA  AND  BROTHS  FOR  THE  SICK. 

Chicken  Broth. — Select  a  nice  spring  chicken,  cut  it  into 
very  small  pieces,  cracking  all  the  bones.  Add  cold  water,  about 
a  quart  to  each  pound  of  meat  and  bone,  and  cook  the  same  as 
beef  tea.  Allow  the  broth  to  cool  before  serving.  Always  skim 
off  all  particles  of  fat  before  reheating.  If  desired  a  tablespoonful 


490  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

of  steamed  rice  may  be  added  to  the  broth,  or  a  well-beaten  egg 
may  be  stirred  in  the  broth  just  before  serving. 

Veal  or  Mutton  Broth. — Take  a  scrag-end  of  mutton  (two 
pounds),  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  cold  water  and 
an  ounce  of  pearl  barley  or  rice.  When  it  is  coming  to  a  boil 
skim  it  well,  then  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  let  it  boil  until 
half  reduced,  then  strain  it  and  take  off  all  the  fat,  and  it  is  ready 
for  use.  This  is  excellent  for  an  invalid.  If  vegetables  are  liked 
in  this  brbth,  take  one  turnip,  one  carrot  and  one  onion,  cut  them 
in  shreds  and  boil  them  in  broth  half  an  hour.  In  that  case  the 
barley  may  be  served  with  the  vegetables  in  broth. 

Beef  Broth  and  Oatmeal.— Rub  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oat- 
meal smooth  in  an  equal  quantity  of  cold  water,  and  stir  into  a 
quart  of  boiling  beef  broth.  Cook  in  a  double  boiler  for  two 
hours  and  strain.  Season  with  salt  and  a  little  cream  if  allowed. 

Vegetable  Broth. — Pick  over  and  wash  a  cup  of  dried  peas, 
and  put  to  cook  in  a  quart  of  cold  water ;  cook  slowly  in  a  double 
boiler  or  in  a  kettle  placed  on  the  range  where  they  will  just 
simmer,  until  but  a  cupful  of  liquid  remains.  Strain  off  the 
broth,  add  salt  and  one- third  of  a  cupful  of  the  liquor,  without 
pulp,  from  well-skewed  tomatoes.  Serve  hot. 

Chicken  Panada. — Take  a  cupful  of  white  meat  of  chicken 
pounded  to  a  paste  in  a  mortar,  and  half  a  cup  of  whole-wheat 
crust  or  zwieback  crumbs.  Add  sufficient  chicken  broth  to  make 
a  thick  gruel.  Season  with  salt,  boil  up  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
serve  hot. 

Clam  Broth. — Select  twelve  small  hard-shell  clams,  drain  them 
and  chop  them  fine;  add  a  cupful  of  clam  juice  or  hot  water,  a 
pinch  of  cayenne  and  a  little  butter ;  simmer  thirty  minutes ; 
add  one-half  cupful  of  boiled  milk,  strain  and  serve. 

Beef  Juice. — Cut  a  thick  slice  of  round  steak,  trim  off  every 
particle  of  fat  and  broil  it  over  a  clear  fire  just  long  enough  to  heat 
it  throughout.  Next  gash  it  in  many  places  with  a  sharp  knife, 


Food  for  the  Sick.  491 

and  with  the  aid  of  a  beef-juice  press  or  lemon  squeezer  press  out 
all  the  juice  into  a  bowl  set  in  hot  water;  salt  but  very  slightly, 
remove  all  globules  of  fat,  and  serve.  This  may  also  be  frozen 
and  given  the  patient  in  small  lumps,  if  so  ordered. 

Beef  Tea. — Take  a  pound  of  fresh,  lean,  juicy  beef  of  good 
flavor  (the  top  of  the  round  and  the  back  and  middle  of  the 
rump  are  the  best  portions  for  the  purpose),  from  which  all  fat, 
bones  and  sinews  have  been  carefully  removed  ;  cut  into  pieces 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  square,  or  grind  in  a  sausage  cutter.  Add 
a  quart  of  cold  water,  and  put  into  a  clean  double  boiler.  Place 
over  the  fire  and  heat  very  slowly,  carefully  removing  all  scum 
as  it  rises.  Allow  it  to  cook  gently  for  two  or  three  hours,  or 
until  the  water  has  been  reduced  one-half.  Strain  and  put  away 
to  cool.  Before  using  remove  all  fat  from  the  surface  and  sea- 
son. In  reheating,  a  good  way  is  to  place  a  quantity  in  a  cup 
and  set  the  cup  into  hot  water  until  the  tea  is  sufficiently  hot. 
This  prevents  waste,  and  if  the  patient  is  not  ready  for  the  tea  it 
can  be  easily  kept  hot  in  this  way. 

Beef  Tea  and  Eggs. — Beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg  thoroughly  in 
a  tea  cup  and  fill  the  cup  with  boiling  beef  tea,  stirring  all  the 
while.  Season  with  a  little  salt  if  desired. 


TOAST  FOR  THE    SICK. 

Soft  Toast. — Some  invalids  like  this  very  much  indeed,  and 
nearly  all  do  when  it  is  nicely  made.  Toast  well,  but  not  too 
brown,  a  couple  of  thin  slices  of  bread ;  put  them  on  a  warm  plate 
and  pour  over  boiling  water ;  cover  quickly  with  another  plate 
of  the  same  size,  and  drain  the  water  off;  remove  the  upper  plate, 
butter  the  toast,  put  it  in  the  oven  one  minute,  and  then  cover 
again  with  a  hot  plate  and  serve  at  once. 

Oyster  Toast.— Make  a  slice  of  dry  toast,  butter  it  and  lay  it 


492  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

on  a  hot  dish.  Put  six  oysters,  half  a  teacupful  of  their  own 
liquor  and  half  a  cupful  of  milk  into  a  tin  cup  or  basin,  and 
boil  one  minute.  Season  with  a  little  butter,  pepper  and  salt, 
then  pour  over  the  toast  and  serve. 

Egg  Toast. — Make  a  soft  toast,  and  have  ready  one  or  more 
fresh  eggs  which  have  been  boiled  twenty  minutes ;  remove  the 
shells,  cut  them  in  slices  and  place  upon  the  toast,  with  a  little 
butter,  pepper  and  salt.  Without  the  butter  they  may  be  eaten 
with  impunity  by  the  most  delicate  invalid,  as  an  egg  cooked  for 
twenty  minutes  is  really  more  easy  of  digestion  than  one  that 
is  technically  boiled  soft. 

Panada. — Break  up  three  arrowroot  crackers  into  small 
pieces ;  pour  upon  them  boiling  water  and  cover  close  for  a 
minute,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  white  sugar  and  a  little  pure 
milk.  It  is  an  excellent  breakfast  or  supper  for  a  child  or  an  in- 
valid. Instead  of  the  milk,  the  juice  of  a  lemon  may  be  squeezed 
in  and  another  teaspoonful  of  sugar  added. 


PROPER  FOOD   FOR  INFANTS. 


As  artificial  foods  require  a  longer  time  for  digestion  than 
the  food  supplied  by  nature,  great  care  should  be  exercised  in 
feeding  infants;  for  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the  digestive 
organs  should  have  the  required  interval  of  rest  between  the 
digestion  of  one  meal  and  the  taking  of  another.  When  fed  upon 
artificial  food,  once  every  five  or  six  hours  is  sufficient;  and  when 
using  human  milk,  once  every  three  or  four  hours. 

It  is  a  sad  and  significant  fact  that  at  least  half  the  children 
at  the  present  time  are  deprived  of  their  proper  sustenance  and 
left  to  the  tender  mercies  of  wet  nurses  or  the  bottle.  Between 
the  two  evils  it  is  difficult  to  say  which  is  the  least ;  but  unless  a 
superior  nurse  can  be  found — one  intelligent  and  thoroughly 
clean  in  her  personal  habits — we  should  say,  choose  the  last  and 
bring  it  up  by  hand. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  the  best  physicians,  and  the  conviction  is 
borne  out  by  every  mother's  experience,  that  the  moral,  mental 
and  spiritual,  as  well  as  physical  condition  of  a  child  is  greatly  in- 
fluenced during  its  nursing  period.  Mothers  who  nurse  their 
own  children  know  that  it  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to 
the  quiet  and  healthful  condition  of  the  child  that  they  should 
be  free  from  all  sources  of  agitation,  anxiety  and  irritability. 
Overwork,  giving  way  to  fretfulness  or  being  subjected  to  the 
unreasonable  temper  and  caprices  of  others,  frequently  induces  a 
state  of  mind  that  shows  itself  plainly  in  the  uneasiness  and  dis- 
quiet it  produces  in  the  infant,  and  would  be  seen  with  still  greater 


494  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

distinctness  were  women  accustomed  to  trace  results  more  strictly 
to  their  causes. 

If  this  is  the  case  with  the  mother,  if  her  mental  and  spiritual 
condition  finds  itself  reflected  so  minutely  in  the  lights  and  shad- 
ows of  the  little  life  which  is  dependent  upon  her,  why  should 
it  not  receive  a  coloring  from  the  milk  which  it  derives  from  a 
dull,  coarse,  appetite-loving  wet-nurse  of  the  ordinary  stamp  ? 
Two-thirds  of  these  nurses  make  a  necessity  of  strong  tea  and 
coffee  and  malt  liquor  two  or  three  times  a  day ;  they  are  often 
anything  but  scrupulous  in  their  personal  habits,  and  so  accus- 
tomed to  the  exercise  of  a  violent  will,  by  virtue  of  their  office, 
as  to  be  unwilling  to  bear  the  slightest  control  or  contradiction. 
These  are  not  the  influences  which  a  thoughtful  mother  would 
like  to  have  her  child  drink  in  with  its  milk. 

We  believe  it  to  be  a  misfortune,  the  extent  of  which  is  not  at 
all  realized,  when  the  mother  cannot  nurse  her  own  child.  The 
mother's  milk  contains  all  the  elements  necessary  for  its  proper 
growth  in  every  direction,  and  no  substitute  can  be  found  for  it ; 
but  where  this  is  impossible — unless,  as  before  remarked,  a  very 
superior  nurse  can  be  obtained — it  is  safer  to  trust  to  the  simple 
foods,  which  at  least  sustain  life  and  do  no  hurt  if  given  at  right 
times  and  in  proper  quantities,  leaving  the  mental  and  spiritual 
activities  unimpeded,  though  probably  subject  to  a  slower  growth 
than  if  aided  by  the  sympathetic  magnetism  of  the  mother's  nature. 

Starchy  Food — Such  as  arrowroot,  sago,  corn-starch  and  the 
like,  is  commonly  held  to  be  very  healthy  and  nutritious  for 
infants,  yet  the  experience  of  every  physician  furnishes  numer- 
ous instances  of  feeble,  sickly  children  that  are  so  fed,  while  the 
number  is  small  that  survive  it.  The  reason  of  this  is  that  the 
digestive  organs  of  infants  are  not  sufficiently  powerful  to  convert 
the  starchy  matter  into  nourishment ;  it  therefore  only  serves  to 
clog  and  impede  the  action  of  the  system,  while  the  little  victim 
is  gradually  being  starved  on  the  trifle  of  sustenance  which  it 


Proper  Food  for  Infants.  495 

can  obtain  from  whatever  sugar  and  milk  is  given  with  its  other 
food. 

English  Pap. — This  is  highly  recommended  by  physicians. 
Boiling  water  is  poured  on  a  small  piece  of  the  crumby  part  of 
light  white  bread.  This  is  covered  up  for  a  moment  and  then 
the  water  is  poured  off.  The  softened  bread  is  then  put  in  a 
porcelain  stew  pan  with  a  trifle  more  of  water,  and  allowed  to 
boil  up  until  it  forms  a  pulp.  A  lump  of  white  sugar  and  a  little 
cold  milk  added  brings  it  precisely  up  to  the  ideas  of  most  young 
Britishers,  who  grow  very  stout  and  healthy. 

Peptonized  Milk. — One  gill  of  cow's  milk  fresh  and  un- 
skimmed, one  gill  of  pure  water,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  rich 
sweet  cream,  two  hundred  grains  of  milk  sugar,  one  and  one- 
fourth  grains  of  extractum  pancreatis,  four  grains  of  sodium 
bicarbonate.  Put  the  above  in  a  clean  nursing  bottle,  and  place 
the  bottle  in  water  so  warm  that  the  whole  hand  cannot  be  held 
in  it  longer  than  one  minute  without  pain.  Keep  the  milk  at  this 
temperature  for  exactly  twenty  minutes.  Prepare  fresh  just 
before  using. 

Cow's  Milk. — A  diet  of  cow's  milk  exclusively  is  not  good ; 
it  is  too  rich  and  very  provocative  of  eruptive  diseases.  But  if 
the  bottle  is  preferred  to  spoon  feeding,  half  of  one  good  cow's 
milk  may  be  given  diluted  with  half  of  boiling  water  and  sweet- 
ened slightly  with  white  sugar.  An  excellent  change  from  this 
consists  of  a  thin  strained  gruel  from  the  best  prepared  barley, 
with  a  little  milk  and  sugar  added.  A  little  sugar  is  necessary 
in  infants'  food,  but  be  particularly  careful  not  to  make  it  sweet, 
as  this  provokes  continual  thirst  as  well  as  disorders  the  child's 
stomach. 

Infants'  Broth. — After  the  baby  is  three  months  old  it  may 
occasionally  be  treated  to  a  little  clear  chicken  or  mutton  broth 
made  in  the  following  way.  Cut  up  a  pound  of  lean  mutton 
into  small  pieces  and  put  them  into  a  small  jar,  cover  them  with 


496  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

cold  water,  set  the  jar  in  a  kettle  of  warm  water,  let  it  come  to 
boiling  point,  and  simmer  the  mutton  until  the  strength  is  ex- 
tracted. One  pound  of  meat  should  make  a  quart  of  broth ; 
simmer  at  least  six  hours,  strain  and  put  in  a  trifle  of  salt,  but  no 
other  spice.  Treat  part  of  a  chicken  in  the  same  way  for  chicken 
broth. 

Baby  Pudding. — Grate  a  little  stale  bread,  pour  some  boiling 
milk  upon  it,  cover,  and  when  it  becomes  a  pulp  stir  into  it  the 
yolk  of  an  egg  and  a  grain  of  salt.  The  quantity  should  fill  a 
tea  cup,  in  which  boil  it  fifteen  minutes. 

Essentials. — Warm,  sensible  clothing,  quiet,  with  food  and 
sleep  at  regular  intervals  are  the  essentials  to  health  and  comfort 
for  babies.  The  animal  from  which  the  milk  comes  should  be 
perfectly  healthy  and  well  cared  for.  The  quality  of  her  food 
should  also  receive  attention,  as  there  is  little  doubt  that  disease 
is  often  communicated  to  infants  by  milk  from  cows  improperly 
fed  and  cared  for.  An  eminent  medical  authority  offers  the  fol- 
lowing important  points  on  this  subject :  "  The  cow  selected  for 
providing  the  food  for  an  infant  should  be  between  the  ages  of 
four  and  ten  years,  of  mild  disposition,  and  one  which  has  been 
giving  milk  from  four  to  eight  weeks.  She  should  be  fed  on 
good  clean  grain  and  hay  free  from  must.  Roots,  if  any  are  fed, 
should  be  of  good  quality,  and  she  should  have  plenty  of  good 
clean  water  from  a  living  spring  or  well.  Her  pasture  should  be 
timothy  grass  or  native  grass  free  from  weeds ;  clover  alone  is 
bad.  She  should  be  cleaned  and  cared  for  like  a  carriage  horse, 
and  milked  twice  a  day  by  the  same  person  and  at  the  same  time. 
Some  cows  are  unfit  by  nature  for  feeding  infants.  Milk  from 
the  same"  animal  should  be  used  if  possible.  Changing  from  one 
cow's  milk  to  another,  or  the  use  of  such  milk  as  is  usually  sup- 
plied by  city  milkmen,  often  occasions  serious  results.  The  ex- 
traction of  the  heat  from  the  milk  immediately  after  milking  and 
before  it  is  used  or  carried  far,  especially  in  hot  weather,  is  essential. 


FOOD  FOR  YOUNG  CHILDREN. 


The  great  danger  in  feeding  young  children  lies  not  so  much 
in  the  food  as  in  its  preparation,  or  want  of  preparation.  A  hard 
indigestible  potato  is  bad  for  them,  and  a  little  tender  stewed 
meat  is  good ;  but  if  the  potato  were  mashed  and  mealy,  and  the 
meat  hard  and  tough,  the  case  would  be  just  the  reverse. 

The  principal  danger  is  in  their  swallowing  indigestible  sub- 
stances, and  whether  these  are  hard  apples  or  lumpy  potatoes, 
tough  meat  or  sour  bread,  rich  cake  or  hickory  nuts,  makes  very 
little  difference  ;  the  irritation  and  derangement  produced  is  the 
same. 

Meat  for  children  under  the  age  of  ten  years  should  be 
cooked  very  tender  and  cut  up  very*  small,  or  given  in  the  form 
of  soup.  Potatoes  should  be  mashed,  apples  roasted  or  stewed  ; 
and  if  bread  and  milk  could  form  their  breakfast,  and  some  kind 
of  mush,  with  milk,  their  supper,  they  would  be  all  the  better  for 
it  for  the  rest  of  their  lives. 

Children's  Pie. — Cover  the  bottom  of  a  pie  dish  with  slices 
of  bread  and  butter,  cover  it  with  fresh  berries  sprinkled  with 
sugar,  or  with  stewed  fruit,  fresh  or  dried.  Set  it  in  the  oven 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Sift  a  little  sugar  over  it  when  it 
comes  out. 

Brown  Mush  for  Supper. — Stir  into  a  quart  of  boiling  water 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  Graham  flour  enough  to  make  it  as  thick 
as  Indian  mush.  Let  it  boil  gently  half  an  hour,  keeping  it 
covered.  Eat  it  with  cream  or  milk  and  sugar. 

Bread  and  Milk. — Cut  or  break  stale  bread  up  into  small 
pieces  and  let  them  come  to  a  boil  in  milk.  It  makes  an  excel- 
lent breakfast  for  children,  with  a  slice  of  toast  or  without. 


MILK,  CREAM  AND  BUTTER. 


MILK. 

Among  the  most  healthful  and  nutritious  foods  that  enter  into 
our  daily  bill  of  fare  are  milk  and  buttermilk.  Many  consider 
these  a  beverage,  but  they  can  only  be  classified  with  food,  as 
the  greater  part  becomes  solid  matter  after  they  are  drunk. 

Milk  consists  of  nitrogenous  matter,  4.1  ;  fat,  3.9;  sugar  of 
milk,  5.2  ;  mineral  matter,  0.8  ;  water,  86.O. 

While  milk  is  considered  by  physicians  very  healthy  and 
beneficial,  unless  a  proper  care  be  exercised  in  procuring  milk 
that  is  fresh  and  not  adulterated  it  may  be  the  means  of  inoculat- 
ing the  system  with  disease.  As  the  quality  of  the  milk  depends 
largely  upon  the  food  cows  are  fed  on  and  the  conditions  by  which 
they  are  surrounded — and  unscrupulous  dealers  will  sell  milk 
from  diseased  cows  owing  to  the  filthy  conditions  in  which 
they  keep  their  stables  and  the  manner  of  feeding  their  cattle — 
all  milk,  especially  if  intended  for  children  and  the  sick,  should 
be  first  properly  sterilized  so  as  to  destroy  the  germs. 

The  following  milk  should  be  avoided  : 

1st.  Curdly  Milk,  which  curdles  within  a  few  hours  after  it  is 
drawn,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  animal  is  suffering  from  certain 
inflammatory  disease. 

2d.  Bitter  Sweet  Milk,  the  cream  of  which  has  a  some- 
what bitter  taste  and  is  covered  with  blisters. 

3<f.  Slimy  Milk,  which  can  be  drawn  into  fine  ropy  fibers. 

^th.  Blue  Milk,  which  twenty-four  hours  after  it  is  drawn 
forms  an  indigo-blue  over  the  surface  of  the  milk ;  this  is  owing 


Milk,   Cream  and  Butter.  499 

to  the  rapid  growth  of  the  germs.  The  butter  made  from  this 
milk  is  somewhat  bitter  and  of  a  greenish  color. 

5///.  Barnyard  Milk,  milk  taken  from  cows  that  are  kept  in 
a  filthy  condition  and  housed  in  stables  that  are  not  properly 
ventilated. 

As  it  has  been  proved  by  scientists  that  cows  are  subject 
to  certain  diseases  similar  to  human  beings,  it  can  be  readily  per- 
ceived that  unless  due  precaution  is  used  the  germs  can  be  easily 
inoculated  into  the  system. 

Milk  should  never  be  placed  in  brass,  copper  or  glazed  vessels. 
Glass,  tin  and  granite  ware  are  the  best  to  use. 

The  vessel  containing  milk  should  always  be  kept  covered,  to 
keep  out  the  floating  germs  and  the  odors  which  the  milk  steadily 
absorbs.  The  best  material  to  cover  the  vessel  with  is  two  or 
three  layers  of  cheese  cloth  ;  this  will  permit  the  air  to  circulate 
properly,  but  prevent  the  germs  from  entering. 

The  greatest  care  should  be  taken  in  washing  the  pans  that 
are  used  for  milk,  as  the  smallest  quantity  of  impure  or  sour  milk 
will  spoil  all  the  rest.  The  best  way  to  clean  vessels  is  first  to 
rinse  them  separately  in  cold  water,  pouring  the  water  from  one 
to  another  until  they  are  perfectly  clean,  and  then  wash  in  warm 
water,  mixing  in  a  little  bicarbonate  of  soda  ;  then  scald  them  well 
and  wipe  perfectly  dry,  and  invert  the  pans  over  a  warm  stove. 

To  Sterilize  Milk,  to  Keep  for  an  Indefinite  Time.— Take 
the  fresh  milk  and  pour  into  the  fruit  cans  or  patented  milk 
cans,  place  cans  in  a  boiler  of  tepid  water,  screw  on  the  caps 
part  way.  Allow  the  water  to  boil,  and  when  it  comes  to  a  good 
boil  allow  jars  of  milk  to  remain  in  boiler  about  twenty-five  to 
thirty  minutes.  The  water  must  be  boiling  all  that  time,  and 
endeavor  to  keep  an  even  temperature  ;  then  take  out  the  jars 
and  allow  them  to  cool  as  quickly  as  possible.  To  increase  the 
temperature  of  the  water  that  you  sterilize  with,  add  rock  salt  to 
the  water  or  a  saturated  solution  of  either  baking  soda  or  chloride 


500  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

of  sodium.     But  in  using  a  solution  in  the  water  allow  jars  to 
cool  in  the  water,  or  they  will  break. 

To  Sterilize  Milk  for  Immediate  Use.— Fill  your  jars  or 
cans  with  fresh  milk,  place  on  the  covers,  but  not  tight;  set 
them  in  a  boiler  of  tepid  water,  allow  water  to  come  to  about 
155  degrees  Fahrenheit  or  scalding  hot,  and  allow  milk  to  heat 
(not  boil)  for  about  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  have  water  boiling  when  sterilizing  milk  for  im- 
mediate use.  Water  at  155  degrees  Fahrenheit  will  destroy  the 
germs,  and  that  is  all  that  is  necessary.  Take  out  the  jars  or 
cans  and  allow  to  cool  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  use  at  once. 


CREAM. 

Cream  is  best  procured  and  rises  the  quickest  when  the  milk 
is  quite  warm.  The  method  of  scalding  milk  after  it  is  drawn  is 
highly  recommended,  as  it  secures  better  results,  making  the  cream 
rise  quicker  and  destroying  the  germs,  thereby  making  the  milk 
more  healthy  and  preventing  it  from  souring.  The  best  way  to 
accomplish  this  is  to  pour  the  milk,  immediately  after  it  is  drawn, 
into  a  vessel  and  then  set  the  vessel  in  hot  water ;  and  when  the 
milk  is  thoroughly  scalded,  but  not  allowed  to  boil,  it  should  be 
cooled  quickly  by  pouring  the  milk  in  cold  vessels  and  setting 
same  in  a  vessel  of  ice  water  until  reduced  to  a  temperature  of 
about  sixty  to  sixty-five  degrees,  and  allowing  it  to  remain  at  that 
temperature  while  cream  is  rising. 


BUTTER. 

The  making  of  good  butter  depends  upon  the  careful  treat- 
ment of  the  milk  and  cream.  The  milk  should  be  protected  from 
acid  or  souring,  for  as  soon  as  the  milk  sours  the  cream  ceases  to 


Milkt  Cream  and  Butter.  501 

rise.  In  a  clear  dry  atmosphere  the  cream  will  rise  quicker,  and 
better  results  are  obtained  than  in  a  moist  or  damp  atmosphere, 
which  has  a  tendency  to  sour  the  milk. 

Milk  to  be  used  for  butter  should  first  be  strained  through  a 
milk  strainer  covered  with  two  or  three  folds  of  cheese  cloth. 
Cream  skimmed  from  different  milk,  to  be  churned  for  butter  at 
the  same  time,  should  be  mixed  ten  hours  previous  to  churning. 
Cream  should  be  churned  at  a  temperature  of  about  sixty  degrees. 
It  is  best  to  test  it  with  a  thermometer.  If  the  butter  is  too 
soft  it  can  be  hardened  by  adding,  while  working,  a  brine  made 
in  proportion  of  twelve  ounces  of  salt  to  two  and  a  half  gallons 
of  water. 

After  the  butter  has  come,  gather  it  slightly  in  the  churn 
and  drain  out  the  buttermilk,  leaving  the  butter  in  the  churn ; 
then  dash  cold  water  upon  it,  to  rinse  the  buttermilk  out 
thoroughly.  By  treating  the  butter  in  this  manner  the  grain  is 
kept  more  perfect,  which  is  a  very  important  factor.  In  work- 
ing in  the  salt,  the  ladle  should  not  be  allowed  to  slip  on  the  but- 
ter, but  should  be  used  in  a  rolling  motion ;  this  will  retain  the 
grain  more  perfectly. 


HINTS  TO  HOUSEKEEPERS. 


Measuring. — An  important  matter  to  be  observed  in  the 
cooking  of  foods  is  correct  measuring.  Many  failures  are  made 
simply  from  the  lack  of  care  in  this  respect.  As  measures  are 
more  convenient  than  weights,  they  are  more  generally  used. 
The  ordinary  large-sized  coffee  cup,  which  holds  half  a  pint,  is  a 
good  standard  to  go  by.  The  following  are  good  rules  to  follow : 

1st.  Flour,  sugar,  and  salt  that  has  been  packed  should  be 
sifted  before  measuring. 

2d.  A  cupful  of  dry  material  should  be  measured  level  with  the 
top  of  the  cup  without  being  packed  down. 

3d.  A  cupful  of  liquid  should  be  all  the  cup  will  hold  with- 
out overflowing. 

4th.  The  tea  spoon  and  table  spoon  commonly  recommended 
in  cook  books  is  the  silver  spoon  in  general  use. 

For  general  weights  and  measures,  see  page  378. 

Preparing  and  Cooking  Foods. — Vegetables  should  be  free 
from  all  decay  and  should  have  fresh  and  unshriveled  skins. 
Sprouted  vegetables  are  unfit  to  use  for  food,  as  they  contain  a 
poison  similar  to  belladonna.  Green  vegetables  should  be  freshly 
gathered,  as  those  which  have  lain  over  twenty-four  hours  are 
unfit  to  use  ;  stale  vegetables  cause  serious  ailments. 

If  it  is  not  convenient  to  use  the  green  vegetables  the  same 
day  that  they  are  gathered,  lay  them  in  a  cool  dark  place, 
and  do  not  remove  their  outer  leaves  until  ready  to  use.  Never 
keep  them  in  water,  as  that  destroys  some  of  their  juices.  When 


Hints  to  Housekeepers.  503 

some  of  the  stems  are  withered,  the  best  way  is  to  cut  off  a  bit  of 
the  stem  and  set  in  water  the  cut  part  only.  The  vegetables 
will  absorb  enough  water  to  replace  what  has  been  lost  by 
evaporation. 

Vegetables  to  be  kept  for  the  winter  should  be  kept  in  a  cool 
dry  place,  temperature  between  forty-five  and  sixty-five  degrees. 
There  should  be  neither  light,  dampness  nor  warmth  allowed,  as 
they  are  the  cause  of  decay. 

As  vegetables  readily  absorb  all  impurities,  great  care  should 
be  exercised  that  nothing  odorous  or  decomposing  is  left  near 
where  they  are  stored.  They  should  be  sorted  often,  and  those 
bruised  and  decayed  thrown  away. 

Beans  and  peas  should  not  be  shelled  until  needed. 

In  washing  all  kind  of  vegetables  and  greens,  it  is  best  to 
place  them  in  a  colander  and  dip  them  several  times  in  vessels  of 
cold  water  until  they  are  clean. 

It  requires  care  and  skill  to  cook  vegetables  properly,  so  they 
will  retain  their  natural  flavor. 

It  is  best  to  cook  them  in  as  little  water  as  possible,  as  the 
salts  and  the  nutrient  juices  are  mostly  lost  in  the  water,  and  if 
this  must  be  drained  off  most  of  their  nutritious  value  is  lost. 
Vegetables  contain  so  much  water  that  it  is  not  necessary  to  add 
large  quantities  to  cook  them. 

Many  cooks,  from  lack  of  this  knowledge,  convert  some  of  the 
most  nutritious  of  foods  into  dishes  that  are  unfit  to  eat.  Great 
care  should  also  be  exercised  that  they  should  not  be  overdone  or 
not  done  enough,  for  either  destroys  their  natural  flavor. 

Always  pare  potatoes  very  thin.  Much  of  the  most  nutritious 
part  of  the  tuber  lies  next  its  outer  covering ;  so  care  should  be 
taken  to  waste  as  little  as  possible.  Potatoes  cooked  with  the 
skins  on  are  undoubtedly  better  than  those  pared.  The  chief 
mineral  element  contained  in  the  potato  is  potash,  an  important 
constituent  of  the  blood.  Potash  salts  are  freely  soluble  in  water, 


504  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

and  when  the  skin  is  removed  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  these 
salts  from  escaping  into  the  water  in  which  the  potato  is  boiled. 
If  the  potato  is  cooked  in  its  "jacket,"  the  skin,  which  does  not  in 
general  burst  open  until  the  potato  is  nearly  done,  serves  to  keep 
this  valuable  element  largely  inside  the  potato  while  cooking. 
For  the  same  reason  it  is  better  not  to  pare  potatoes  and  put  them 
in  water  to  soak  over  night,  as  many  cooks  are  in  the  habit  of 
doing,  to  have  them  in  readiness  for  cooking  for  breakfast. 

Potatoes  to  be  pared  should  be  first  washed  and  dried.  It  is 
a  good  plan  to  wash  quite  a  quantity  at  one  time,  to  be  used  as 
needed.  After  paring,  drop  at  once  into  cold  water  and  rinse 
them  thoroughly.  It  is  a  careless  habit  to  allow  pared  potatoes 
to  fall  among  the  skins,  as  in  this  way  they  become  stained  and 
appear  black  and  discolored  after  cooking.  Scrubbing  with  a 
vegetable  brush  is  by  far  the  best  means  for  cleaning  potatoes  to 
be  cooked  with  the  skins  on. 

When  boiled  in  their  skins  the  waste  is  about  three  per  cent., 
while  without  them  it  is  not  less  than  fourteen  per  cent,  or  more 
than  two  ounces  in  every  pound.  Potatoes  boiled  without  skins 
should  be  cooked  very  gently. 

Steaming,  roasting,  and  baking  are  much  better  methods  for 
cooking  potatoes  than  boiling,  for  reasons  already  given.  Very 
old  potatoes  are  best  stewed  or  mashed.  When  withered  or 
wilted,  they  are  freshened  by  standing  in  cold  water  for  an  hour 
or  so  before  cooking.  If  diseased  or  badly  sprouted,  potatoes 
are  wholly  unfit  for  food. 

Vegetables  to  be  cooked  by  boiling  should  be  put  into  boiling 
water ;  and  since  water  loses  its  goodness  by  boiling,  vegetables 
should  be  put  in  as  soon  as  the  boiling  begins.  The  process  of 
cooking  should  be  continuous,  and  in  general  gentle  heat  is  best. 
Remember  that  when  water  is  boiling,  the  temperature  is  not  in- 
creased by  violent  bubbling.  Keep  the  cooking  utensil  closely 
covered.  If  water  is  added,  let  it  also  be  boiling  hot 


Hints  to  Housekeepers.  505 

Vegetables  not  of  uniform  size  should  be  so  assorted  that  those 
of  the  same  size  may  be  cooked  together,  or  large  ones  may  be 
divided.  Green  vegetables  retain  their  color  best  if  cooked 
rapidly.  Soda  is  sometimes  added  to  the  water  in  which  the 
vegetables  are  cooked,  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  their  colors, 
but  this  practice  is  very  harmful. 

Steaming  or  baking  is  preferable  for  most  vegetables,  because 
their  finer  flavors  are  more  easily  retained,  and  their  food  value 
suffers  less  diminution.  Particularly  is  this  true  of  tubers. 

The  time  required  for  cooking  depends  much  upon  the  age 
and  freshness  of  the  vegetables,  as  well  as  the  method  of  cooking 
employed.  Wilted  vegetables  require  a  longer  time  for  cooking 
than  fresh  ones. 

Hard  and  Soft  Water. — Different  effects  upon  food  are  pro- 
duced by  the  use  of  hard  and  soft  water.  Peas  and  beans  boiled 
in  hard  water  containing  lime  or  gypsum  will  not  become  tender, 
because  these  chemical  substances  harden  vegetable  casein,  of 
which  element  peas  and  beans  are  largely  composed.  For  ex- 
tracting the  juices  of  meat  and  the  soluble  parts  of  other  foods 
soft  water  is  best,  as  it  more  readily  penetrates  the  tissue ;  but 
when  it  is  desired  to  preserve  the  articles  whole  and  retain  their 
juices  and  flavors,  hard  water  is  preferable.  Foods  should  be 
put  to  cook  in  cold  or  boiling  water,  in  accordance  with  the 
object  to  be  attained  in  their  cooking.  Foods  from  which  it  is 
desirable  to  extract  the  nutrient  properties,  as  for  broths,  extracts, 
etc.,  should  be  put  to  cook  in  cold  water.  Foods  to  be  kept 
intact  as  nearly  as  may  be  should  be  put  to  cook  in  boiling  water. 
Hot  and  cold  water  act  differently  upon  different  food  elements. 
Starch  is  but  slightly  acted  upon  by  cold  water.  When  starch 
is  added  to  several  times  its  bulk  of  hot  water,  all  the  starch 
granules  burst  on  approaching  the  boiling  point,  and  swell  to 
such  a  degree  as  to  occupy  nearly  the  whole  volume  of  the  water, 
forming  a  pasty  mass.  Sugar  is  dissolved  readily  in  either  hot  or 


506  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

cold  water.  Cold  water  extracts  albumen.  Hot  water  coagu- 
lates it 

Adding  Foods  to  Boiling  Liquids.— Much  of  the  sodden- 
ness  of  improperly  cooked  foods  might  be  avoided  if  the  follow- 
ing facts  were  kept  in  mind :  When  vegetables  or  other  foods 
of  ordinary  temperature  are  put  into  the  boiling  water,  the 
temperature  is  lowered  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  and  the 
temperature  of  the  food  thus  introduced,  and  will  not  again  boil 
until  the  mass  of  food  shall  have  absorbed  more  heat  from  the 
fire.  The  result  of  this  is  that  the  food  is  apt  to  become  more  or 
less  water-soaked  before  the  process  of  cooking  begins.  This 
difficulty  may  be  avoided  by  introducing  but  small  quantities  of 
the  food  at  one  time,  so  as  not  to  greatly  lower  the  temperature 
of  the  liquid,  and  then  allowing  the  matter  to  boil  between  the 
introduction  of  each  fresh  supply ;  or  by  heating  the  food  before 
adding  it  to  the  liquid. 

Evaporation — Is  another  principle  often  overlooked  in  the 
cooking  of  food,  and  many  a  sauce  or  gravy  is  spoiled  because 
the  liquid,  heated  in  a  shallow  pan  from  which  evaporation  is 
rapid,  loses  so  much  in  bulk  that  the  amount  of  thickening 
requisite  for  the  given  quantity  of  fluid,  and  which,  had  less  evap- 
oration occurred,  would  have  made  it  of  the  proper  consistency, 
makes  the  sauce  thick  and  unpalatable.  Evaporation  is  much  less 
in  slow  boiling  than  in  more  rapid  cooking. 


MEDICINAL   PROPERTIES   IN    FOODS. 

Celery  is  a  good  tonic  for  the  nervous  system,  and  is  con- 
sidered a  cure  for  rheumatism  and  a  purifier  of  the  blood. 

Spinach  and  dandelion  are  considered  excellent  for  the  kidneys. 
Tomatoes  are  good  for  torpid  liver. 


Hints  to  Housekeepers.  507 

Raw  onions  are  recommended  for  insomnia,  and  cooked  onions 
^r  onion  soup  are  an  excellent  remedy  in  debility  of  the  digestive 
organs. 

Lettuce  and  cucumbers  assist  in  cooling  the  blood. 

Beans  are  considered  one  of  the  most  nutritious  and  strength- 
ening of  vegetables. 

Beets,  turnips  and  potatoes  are  fattening,  and  are  excellent 
appetizers.  In  fact,  all  vegetable  foods  have  more  or  less  medic- 
inal properties. 

PRACTICAL   HINTS   REGARDING   HEALTH. 

Many  people,  especially  the  dyspeptic  and  those  suffering 
from  weak  digestive  powers,  experience  great  distress  and  incon- 
venience from  the  use  of  certain  foods ;  this  is  caused  from  com- 
bining foods  that  are  not  suited  to  one  another. 

Many  foods  that  are  easily  assimilated  when  taken  alone,  if 
they  are  combined  with  other  articles  of  diet  with  which  they  are 
incompatible  will  cause  inconvenience  and  suffering. 

The  sick  and  convalescent  and  those  suffering  from  weak 
stomachs  will  do  well  to  observe  the  following :  Never  combine 
fruits  and  vegetables,  milk  and  meats,  sugar  and  milk;  fats  with 
fruits  or  with  meats,  or  cooked  with  grains  or  cereal  foods. 

The  following  combinations  of  food  are  considered  the  best  : 
Grains  or  cereal  food  and  milk ;  cereal  food  and  eggs ;  cereal 
food  and  fruits ;  cereal  food  and  vegetables ;  cereal  food  and 
meats. 

Food  should  be  cut  in  small  pieces,  especially  meats,  and 
eaten  slowly,  for  if  swallowed  in  large  pieces  and  not  properly 
masticated,  the  digestive  fluids  cannot  readily  act  upon  it;  the 
saliva  will  not  be  sufficient  in  quantity,  consequently  the  starch 
will  not  be  properly  digested,  and  the  stomach  will  not  secrete 
a  sufficient  amount  of  gastric  juice.  All  soft  and  liquid  foods 


508  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

should  be  eaten  with  hard  foods,  so  they  will  receive  the  proper 
mastication.  Drinking  too  freely  at  meals  is  injurious,  for  when 
large  quantities  of  liquid  are  used,  digestion  does  not  begin  until 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  liquid  is  absorbed.  It  is  best  not 
to  drink  while  eating.  Either  before  or  shortly  after  the  meal 
are  the  times  recommended  by  our  leading  physicians. 

Drinking  iced  water,  iced  milk  or  iced  tea  when  eating  hot 
foods  is  very  harmful,  as  the  stomach  is  chilled,  causing  a  longer 
delay  in  the  digestive  process. 

Eating  between  meals  is  extremely  harmful,  and  if  continued 
will  certainly  cause  dyspepsia.  The  stomach,  as  well  as  the  other 
organs  of  the  body,  requires  rest. 

The  simplest  diet  is  the  best;  the  eating  of  too  many  kinds  of 
food  at  a  meal  is  a  common  fault,  and  is  often  the  cause  of  indi- 
gestion and  other  diseases  of  the  digestive  organs.  Hasty  eating 
is  a  common  fault,  and  is  also  the  cause  of  over-eating;  when  food 
is  eaten  so  rapidly,  it  is  crowded  into  the  stomach  so  fast  that 
nature  has  not  time  to  take  away  the  appetite  before  too  much 
has  been  eaten — hence  the  great  distress  and  the  dull  feeling 
after  such  a  meal.  When  an  excess  of  food  is  taken  into  the 
stomach,  it  is  likely  to  sour  before  it  is  digested. 

Every  person  should  be  the  proper  judge  of  the  quantity  of 
food  to  be  eaten  at  each  meal,  and  what  they  are  able  to  digest 
and  utilize.  The  amount  needed  will  vary,  as  it  depends  upon 
the  amount  of  work  done  mentally  or  physically,  or  the  condition 
of  the  weather  and  the  season  of  the  year. 

Distress  of  the  stomach  and  drowsiness  are  indications  of 
excessive  eating,  and  should  be  a  warning  to  discontinue  it. 

A  person  with  an  empty  stomach  should  never  enter  a  room 
where  there  is  a  contagious  disease,  nor  enter  a  sick-room  when 
perspiring. 

A  patient  suffering  from  fever  can  be  made  cool  by  sponging 
them  frequently  with  soda-water. 


Hints  to  Housekeepers.  509 

A  bag  of  hot  sand  relieves  neuralgia  and  other  pains. 

One-half  teaspoonful  of  baking  soda  in  half  a  cupful  of  hot 
water  will  relieve  distress  at  the  stomach  and  sick  headache 
caused  by  indigestion. 

Hemorrhages  of  the  lungs  or  stomach  are  checked  by  tak- 
ing small  doses  of  salt,  and  the  patient  must  be  kept  very  quiet. 

Whooping-cough  paroxysms  are  promptly  checked  by  in- 
haling the  fumes  of  turpentine  and  carbolic  acid. 

The  flavor  of  cod-liver  oil  can  be  changed  to  a  delightful  one, 
if  one  will  drink  a  tumblerful  of  water  poured  from  a  vessel  in 
which  nails  have  been  allowed  to  rust. 

To  bathe  the  eyes  with  a  solution  of  ten  to  fifteen  grains 
of  boracic  acid  to  two  ounces  of  hot  water  is  highly  recom- 
mended ;  boracic  acid  will  not  dissolve  in  cold  water. 

To  cure  a  cold  in  the  head,  powdered  borax  should  be  snuffed 
up  the  nostrils. 

Night  sweats  can  be  arrested  by  sponging  the  body  with  salt 
water  before  going  to  bed. 

If  an  artery  is  severed,  tie  a  small  cord  or  handkerchief 
above  it 


-    -    THE 


Lightning  Fruit  Processor  and  Cooker, 

PRONOUNCED   BY   PHYSICIANS,    EXPERTS,    CANNERS, 

AND    THE    LEADING    CHEFS    TO    BE    THE 

BEST  STEAMER   EVER   PATENTED. 


PATENTED  OCTOBER  31,  1893. 
COPYRIGHTED  1893. 
ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED. 

This  cut  shows  the  Lightning  Fruit  Processor  and  Cooker.  [K]  shows  the 
boiler.  [HJ  the  place  in  which  water  is  filled  into  the  boiler.  [C]  the  cylinder  in 
which  jars  or  buckets  are  placed.  [E]  is  the  wire  rack  in  which  jars  are  placed  be- 
fore putting  into  cylinder.  [D]  is  the  siphon  which  conveys  the  steam  into  the  jar 
marked  [F],  [G]  is  the  bucket  for  cooking  the  foods,  and  [I]  is  the  jacket  which 
covers  all,  compresses  the  steam,  securing  more  pressure  and  increasing  the  temper- 
ature. 

H.    I.    B  LITS, 

INVENTOR. 


METHODS   AND    LECTURE    HIGHLY    ENDORSED. 

Nearly  one  thousand  prominent  ladies  of  Philadelphia  attended  Prof.  Blits' 
lecture  on  the  Canning  of  Fruits,  and  were  enraptured  with  his  formulas  on  preserv- 
ing fruits  and  vegetables  by  his  patented  method  of  utilizing  steam  and  hot  air,  and 
nis  new  system  of  compounding  syrups  to  preserve  berries  whole  and  natural.  The 
samples  exhibited  were  the  perfection  of  the  art  of  preserving,  and  the  results 
obtained  by  many  ladies  present  who  had  successfully  tried  his  methods  with  the  aid 
of  the  Lightning  Fruit  Processor  and  Cooker  were  very  flattering.  Prof.  Blits  is  a 
recognized  authority  in  this  country  on  the  art  of  canning  fruits  and  vegetables,  and 
the  impression  made  was  very  favorable.  The  fruit  is  kept  more  whole  and  natural, 
and  tomatoes,  corn  and  vegetables,  which  it  was  considered  almost  an  impossibility  to 
keep  nicely  in  glass  jars,  are  preserved  very  easily  by  these  methods  and  with  the 
aid  of  this  wonderful  machine.  His  methods  of  canning  strawberries  whole  and 
natural,  so  they  will  retain  their  natural  flavor  and  shape,  was  alone  considered  worth 
the  price  charged. — Philadelphia  Times. 

'  4 

WHAT  CAN  BE  ACCOMPLISHED  BY  THE  LIGHTNING 
FRUIT  PROCESSOR  AND  COOKER. 

You  can  process  all  kinds  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  retain  their  natural  flavor  and 
state  and  save  one-third  the  shrinkage,  in  one-third  the  time ;  cook  all  kinds  of  food, 
sterilize  milk  and  other  liquids  in  one-third  the  time  it  takes  by  the  ordinary  methods 
or  by  using  other  patented  steamers  now  on  the  market.  All  kinds  of  meat,  poultry 
and  game,  no  matter  how  tough,  can  be  made  more  tender  and  palatable  in  one-third 
the  time,  retaining  their  natural  juice  and  flavor.  Fish,  oysters,  clams  and  other  shell- 
fish are  worth  a  king's  ransom  steamed  in  this  cooker.  Barley,  rice,  oatmeal,  hominy 
and  other  cereals  are  more  healthy  cooked  in  this  manner.  All  kinds  of  puddings, 
custards,  sauces,  beans,  brown  bread,  fruit  cake,  and  nearly  everything  that  can  be 
boiled  or  baked  can  be  done  in  this  steamer  with  much  better  results  and  less  time. 
You  can  cook  four  different  foods  in  this  steamer  at  once  without  the  mingling  of 
their  different  odors. 

* 

NEW  YORK,  October  25,  1893. 

This  is  to  certify  that  I  consider  the  Lightning  Fruit  Processor  and  Cooker  one 
of  the  greatest  household  inventions  and  necessities  of  the  age.  I  find  it  retains  the 
natural  flavor  of  the  fruits  and  vegetables,  losing  very  little  by  shrinkage,  and  doing 
the  work  in  less  than  one-third  the  time.  I  find  with  this  machine  it  is  possible  to 
can  from  75  to  100  cans  of  fruit  in  one  day  at  a  cost  of  about  15  to  20  cents  for  fuel. 
For  the  sterilizing  of  milk  and  other  liquids  it  has  no  equal,  and  should  be  adopted 
alone  for  this  purpose,  as  much  sickness  is  caused  by  children  drinking  milk  obtained 
from  diseased  cows.  At  a  trial  test,  made  before  a  number  of  chefs  and  well-known 
housekeepers,  the  food  cooked  in  this  steamer  was  pronounced  far  superior  to  that 
cooked  in  the  ordinary  steamer  or  household  utensil,  and  it  was  accomplished  in  just 
one-third  the  time. — PROF.  L.  N.  GORDON,  Chemist,  East  I4th  Street,  New  York. 


THE  LIGHTNING  FRUIT  PROCESSOR 
AND  COOKER. 


The  Most  Economical  and  Kapid  Fruit  Processor,  Sterilizer 
and  Cooker  ever  Invented. 

Acknowledged  by  the  leading  canners  and  chefs  of  this 
country  to  be  the  most  simple  and  practical  machine  for  the 
canning  of  fruits  and  vegetables  and  for  all  cooking  and  sterilizing 
purposes. 

After  years  of  great  labor  and  study  and  at  great  expense 
the  inventor  has  perfected  a  machine  that  meets  the  require- 
ments of  every  housekeeper.  Its  simplicity  recommends  it  to  all, 
as  there  is  no  complicated  mechanism,  no  escape  tubes,  no  valves 
or  other  appliances  to  get  out  of  order.  The  steamer  is  con- 
structed on  scientific  principles,  giving  concentrated  heat  and 
more  steam  pressure  than  any  machine  used  for  the  purposes 
already  mentioned,  and  can  be  adapted  for  practical  household 
use,  thereby  making  it  an  essential  and  important  factor  in  house- 
hold economy,  conferring  a  blessing  on  every  mother  and  house- 
keeper in  the  land,  and  tending  to  make  canning,  cooking  and  ster- 
ilizing easier — less  work  and  less  expensive.  All  foods  prepared 
by  my  methods  and  with  the  Lightning  Processor  and  Steamer 
are  more  tender,  digestible  and  healthy ;  and  any  system  or 
mechanical  invention  that  tends  to  make  fruit  processing,  cooking 


The  Lightning  Fruit  Processor  and  Cooker.  513 

of  fruit  or  the  sterilizing  of  liquids  less  laborious,  less  expensive 
and  more  agreeable,  is  a  blessing  to  mankind  and  should  be 
adopted  by  every  housekeeper  and  mother  in  the  land. 

Mothers,  no  more  crying  and  worrying  because  you  have  in- 
competent help,  or  no  help  at  all.  It  is  easy  to  manage  and  keep 
clean  ;  no  scouring  of  heavy  pots  and  kettles.  It  requires  very 
little  attention.  No  burning  or  scorching  of  foods  possible.  No 
shrinkage  of  fruits  and  liquids  nor  insipid  tastes,  as  by  the  old 
method  and  old  appliances.  This  is  impossible,  as  this  machine 
is  so  constructed  that  very  little  evaporation  can  take  place.  No 
odors  can  escape,  and  by  the  use  of  the  siphon,  which  is  passed 
into  mouth  of  the  fruit  jar  or  cooking  utensil,  the  air  is  forced  out 
quicker;  the  carbonic  acid  gas  is  destroyed  more  rapidly,  and 
every  minute  a  drop  of  distilled  water  is,  by  condensation,  forced 
into  the  jar,  preventing  the  rapid  shrinkage  of  syrups  as  by  the 
ordinary  canning  methods  of  steamers  now  in  use.  The  juices 
and  flavor  of  all  foods,  meats  and  liquids  are  retained,  making 
food  more  healthy  and  digestible ;  and  this  alone  makes  it  worth 
its  weight  in  gold,  for  statistics  will  prove  that  more  graves  are 
rilled  by  poorly  cooked  and  indigestible  food  than  by  indulgence  in 
strong  drink,  more  divorces  and  separations  effected  than  by  any 
other  cause. 

Vegetables  should  never  be  cooked  in  water.  It  makes  them 
insipid  and  watery.  It  destroys  the  natural  state  and  flavor. 
Fruits  and  vegetables  for  canning  purposes  should  never  be 
stewed  or  cooked.  It  destroys  their  natural  flavor,  causes  too 
much  shrinkage  and  takes  a  long  time,  and  is  far  more  laborious 
and  expensive. 

Nothing  over  which  we  have  control  exerts  so  marked  an 
influence  upon  our  mental  and  physical  condition  as  the  food  we 
eat.  The  brain  and  other  organs  of  the  body  are  affected  by  the 
blood  that  nourishes  them.  So  it  follows  that  poorly  cooked 
food  will  result  in  poor  blood  and  poor  health  in  general;  for 


5  1 4  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

many  of  us  eat  what  gratifies  the  palate  or  is  most  conveniently 
obtained,  without  consideration  or  regard  to  its  dietetic  value. 

The  preserving  and  cooking  of  foods,  when  prepared  by 
scientific  methods  and  with  the  aid  of  the  most  modern  appli- 
ances, ceases  to  be  laborious  work,  but  a  blessing  to  every  house- 
keeper in  the  land. 


Why  it  is  Superior  to  All  Other  Steamers. 

It  is  the  only  steamer  that  is  especially  adapted  for  the  can- 
ning of  fruits  and  vegetables  and  the  sterilizing  of  milk  and  other 
liquids. 

It  alone  has  wire  racks  to  set  the  glass  jars  or  bottles  in,  so 
that  they  will  not  set  on  the  surface  of  boiler.  This  allows  the 
air  to  pass  under  the  jar  and  prevents  their  breakage,  which  is 
often  the  case  in  using  the  wash-boiler  or  the  ordinary  steamers. 
It  is  the  only  steamer  that  has  a  siphon  that  conveys  the  steam 
into  the  jar,  bottle  or  cooking  utensil,  thereby  forcing  out  the 
oxygen  quicker  and  destroving  the  carbonic  acid  gas  more 
rapidly.  As  all  foods  generate  more  or  less  carbonic  acid  gas, 
and  especially  in  the  canning  of  vegetables,  unless  this  is  properly 
treated,  fermentation  sets  in  ;  that  is  the  reason  that  corn  and 
vegetables  are  so  hard  to  keep. 

It  has  a  cap  that  fits  snugly  in  the  cylinder,  and  a  rubber 
packet  (or  gasket)  adjusted  on  rim  of  cap,  which  prevents  all 
vapors  and  odors  from  escaping.  The  rubber  gasket  has  cloth 
in  the  center  and  is  made  of  the  material  that  is  used  in  large 
steamers,  so  that  it  will  stand  a  great  pressure  of  steam  without 
rotting. 

It  is  the  only  Processor  that  has  an  outside  jacket  which  fits 
over  the  closed  cylinder  snugly,  causing  a  greater  degree  of  heat, 
compressing  the  steam  and  thereby  getting  a  greater  steam  pres- 


The  Lightning  Fruit  Processor  and  Cooker.  515 

sure,  and  also  preventing  the  outside  atmosphere  from  reducing 
or  affecting  the  temperature. 

By  this  means  it  will  enable  you  to  can  fruits  and  vegetables 
and  cook  your  foods  in  one-third  the  time  used  by  all  other 
steamers  or  by  the  ordinary  stove  or  range.  Berries  that  take 
fifteen  minutes  to  can  will  take  you  by  my  process  and  steamer 
five  to  ten  minutes  for  every  four  jars. 

Peaches  and  other  soft  fruits  that  take  twenty  minutes  can  be 
done  at  the  rate  of  four  jars  every  ten  to  thirteen  minutes.  Pears 
that  take  twenty- five  to  thirty  minutes  can  be  done  at  the  rate 
four  jars  every  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  The  same  ratio  of  time 
is  used  to  all  other  fruits  and  vegetables. 

In  using  the  Steamer  for  cooking  purposes  you  can  place 
onions  in  one  of  the  cylinders,  potatoes  in  another,  cabbage  in 
the  other  and  turnips  in  the  fourth  cylinder,  and  inclose  same  as 
described  in  directions.  They  will  be  cooked  in  one-third  the 
time  it  takes  you  to  do  them  with  the  ordinary  stoves  or  the 
steamers  now  on  the  market;  of  course,  the  same  degree  of 
heat  and  the  same  size  of  fruits  and  vegetables  must  be  used  in 
the  testing  of  this.  I  should  recommend  a  two-burner  gasoline 
or  gas  stove,  for  if  you  use  one  burner  you  do  not  generate  as 
much  heat ;  one  burner  can  be  used,  but  you  must  not  expect  as 
rapid  work.  In  using  ordinary  wood  or  coal  stoves  or  ranges,  see 
that  you  have  a  good  fire,  and  take  off  one  lid  and  place  steamer 
directly  over  fire.  The  bottom  is  made  of  14-02.  copper  and 
will  not  burn  or  be  damaged  in  the  least.  The  smells  cannot 
escape  or  mingle  with  one  another,  as  the  foods  are  separated  in 
different  cylinders  and  do  not  set  in  vessels  one  above  another. 

By  this  Steamer  you  can  do  potatoes  in  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes,  according  to  the  size  and  degree  of  heat  maintained ; 
ordinary  time,  twenty-two  to  thirty-five  minutes. 

Onions  in  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes ;  ordinary  time,  from 
forty-five  to  sixty  minutes. 


5 1 6  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

Fresh  sweet  corn,  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes ;  ordinary 
time,  twenty  to  thirty  minutes. 

Fresh  peas,  twenty  minutes ;  ordinary  time,  thirty  minutes. 

Young  asparagus  in  eighteen  minutes ;  ordinary  time,  twenty- 
five  minutes. 

Tomatoes  in  twenty-five  to  thirty-five  minutes ;  ordinary  time, 
one  hour  and  longer. 

Young  cabbage  in  forty  minutes ;  ordinary  time,  one  hour. 
Old  cabbage  takes  nearly  one-half  as  long  again. 

Turnips,  forty-five  minutes ;  ordinary  time,  one  hour.  Old, 
one-half  as  long  again ;  and  other  vegetables  in  the  same  ratio  of 
time. 

The  Main  Reason  why  its  Value  is  Inestimable  to  All 
Housekeepers. 

It  will  save  your  health,  thereby  saving  you  many  a  doctor's 
bill.  It  can  be  run  for  ten  hours  on  a  gas  or  gasoline  stove  for 
about  twelve  cents,  saving  you  two-thirds  the  fuel  generally  used. 

You  can  process  four  jars  every  five  to  ten  minutes  for  ber- 
ries, ten  to  fifteen  minutes  for  soft  fruits,  and  four  jars  every 
eighteen  to  twenty-five  minutes  for  hard  fruits.  This  means 
after  steam  is  generated,  which  only  takes  a  few  minutes.  This 
would  make  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  jars  of  fruit  canned 
in  ten  hours. 

Think  of  it,  mothers — you  who  are  compelled  to  do  this  work 
yourselves,  as  you  cannot  trust  your  servants  to  do  it.  What  a 
blessing  it  will  prove  to  you  !  You  can  do  a  whole -season's  can- 
ning of  any  fruit  in  from  one-half  to  one  day  at  an  expense  of  a 
few  cents,  saving  you  a  great  deal  of  money,  time,  worriment  and 
sickness,  and  your  fruits  will  retain  their  natural  flavor  and  state 
and  be  much  healthier  ;  also  saving  you  nearly  one-third  in  shrink- 
age of  fruit.  You  have  never  regretted  paying  forty  to  seventy- 


The  Lightning  Fruit  Processor  and  Cooker.  517 

five  dollars  for  a  sewing  machine,  for  you  found  it  repaid  four- 
fold every  year  ;  and  so  you  will  find  that  the  small  price  charged 
for  this  great  labor-saving  machine  and  my  methods  of  process- 
ing fruits  and  vegetables  will  repay  you  in  one  week,  without 
considering  its  inestimable  value  for  cooking  purposes.  I  also 
give  with  each  machine  my  New  Process  of  Canning  Strawberries 
and  other  Berries  by  simply  using  a  compound  syrup  which  is  put 
over,  the  berries  not  being  cooked  at  all;  the  methods  of  keeping 
tomatoes  whole  by  steaming  for  slicing,  stuffing  or  salad  pur- 
poses ;  the  canning  of  corn,  beans,  peas,  aspargus  and  other  vege- 
tables by  steaming  in  glass  jars,  so  that  they  will  retain  their 
natural  flavor.  Housekeepers  will  admit  this  has  hitherto  been 
impossible  to  do. 

The  testing  of  vinegar  for  pickling  purposes ;  for  if  the  vine- 
gar is  too  strong  it  will  eat  the  pickle  ;  if  too  weak  it  will  not  keep 
them. 

To  test  vinegar  to  see  if  adulterated  with  acid. 

To  give  pickles  a  nice  flavor  and  color  without  using  coloring 
matter. 

The  prevention  of  scum  forming  on  pickles,  and  keeping  them 
without  sealing  them  air-tight. 

How  to  prevent  mincemeat,  ketchup,  chilli  sauce  and  other 
sauces,  also  jellies  and  jams,  from  fermenting. 

To  make  cold  tomato  ketchup,  using  no  heat,  and  keeping  it 
as  long  as  desired ;  and  other  valuable  information. 

These  Steamers  are  made  by  hand  (no  machine  work)  and  of 
the  best  quality  of  tin,  consequently  it  will  outlast  three  of  the 
ordinary  patent  steamers  which  are  made  of  I.  C.  tin,  the  price  of 
which  is  twelve  cents  per  sheet  20x28,  while  the  price  used  in 
this  steamer  is  twenty  cents  per  sheet,  size  20x28. 

The  price  of  this  valuable  machine,  including  four  wire  racks, 
four  tin  buckets,  capacity,  each  two  quarts ;  one  one-half  pint 
funnel ;  including,  also,  the  valuable  information  mentioned,  with 


5  1 8  Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 

my  Patented  Methods  for  Processing  Fruits  and  Vegetables,  in 
pamphlet  form,  is  only  $6.50. 

Persons  ordering  same  will  please  send  P.  O.  money  order 
or  express  money  order,  or  the  machine  will  be  sent  to  your 
address  C.  O.  D.  Please  write  your  name  and  address  legibly. 

Price  of  Wire  Fruit  Racks,  ordered  separately,  $1.75  per 
dozen. 

Price  of  Wire  Fruit  Racks,  ordered  separately,  ninety  cents 
per  half  dozen. 

Price  of  Siphons,  two  for  twenty-five  cents,  or  thirteen  cents 
apiece. 

Price  of  Tin  Buckets,  perforated  or  without  holes,  fifteen 
cents  apiece. 

Agents  wanted  in  all  parts  of  the  United  States,  and  those 
desiring  to  buy  county  rights  will  be  accommodated  at  reason- 
able figures;  from  $10  to  $25  per  day  can  be  made. 

Address, 

NOBTHWESTEfiN  PATENT  EIGHT  AND  PUBLISHING  00,, 

P.  O.  Box  127, 

Milwaukee,  Wis. 


CLASSIFIED     INDEX. 


CANNED   FRUITS. 

Proper  Seasons  for  Canning 4 

Nutritious  Value  of  Fruits 5 

To  Keep  Fruit  Fresh 7 

Gooseberries  and  Rhubarb  in  Cold 

Water 9 

To  Can  Pineapple  Cold 9 

To  Prevent  Fermentation 65 

To  Make  Fruit  Racks 20 

Hot-air  Process  for  Canning  Fruit  IO 

To  Test  if  Jars  are  Air-tight 1 1 

Pears  in  Rock  Candy  Syrup 12 

To  Prevent  Mould 12 

To  Can  Sour  Fruit  in  Syrups 13 

To  Keep  Jars  Air-tight 18 

To  Can  Fruits  by  Steam 22 

To  Can  with  Alcohol,  leaving  no 

taste 42 

CANNED   STRAWBERRIES. 

Wiesbaden  Method  for  Canning. .  14 

Syrup  for  Berries 16 

Directions  of  Importance 16 

Shaker  Methods  for  Berries 17 

Cold  Process  for  Berries 17 

Rule  for  Boiling  Syrup 18 

CANNED  VEGETABLES,  ETC. 

To  Can  Corn 23 

To  Can  Peas  and  Beans 23 

Lima  Beans  and  Succotash 24 

String  Beans  and  Asparagus 24 

Squash  and  Pumpkin 24 

To  Can  Lobster,  Fish,  etc 25 

Hints  to  Housekeepers 27 


CANNED   TOMATOES. 

Tomatoes  by  Hot  Air 12 

Tomatoes  by  Steaming 21 

CRYSTALLIZED  FRUITS,  ETC. 

To  Boil  Sugar 90 

To  Candy  Fruits  and  Nuts 91 

Candied  Chestnuts 91 

To  Crystallize  Fruits 92 

Burned  Sugar 44 

JELLIES. 

To  Prepare  Jellies 29 

Jellies  from  Berries 30 

Jellies  from  Fruits 31 

Grape  Jellies 33 

Orange  Jellies 33 

Apple  Jelly  without  Sugar 33 

Fruit  in  Jelly 34 

Quince  Jelly 35 

Plum  Jelly 35 

Crab  Apple  Jelly 36 

Apple  Jelly 36 

Elderberry  and  Grape  Jelly 37 

Barberry  Jelly 37 

Cranberry  and  Sago  Jelly 38 

Tomato  Jelly 41 

Sherry  Wine  and  Jelly 43 

Apple  Jelly 44 

To  Test  Jelly 46 

BRANDIED   FRUITS. 

To  Brandy  Fruits 32 

To  Brandy  Cherries 32 

To  Brandy  Plums 45 


52O 


Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 


JAMS,  MARMALADE,  ETC. 

Berry  and  Fruit  Jam 32 

Apple  and  Pear  Marmalade 34 

Peach  Marmalade 35 

Raspberry  Preserves 36 

Cherry  Preserves 36 

Plum  Marmalade 38 

Pineapple  Preserves 38 

Apple  Jam 39 

Orange  Marmalade 39 

Tomato-Figs 40 

Tomato  Preserves 40 

Tomato  Jam 41 

Barberry  Jam 41 

Raspberry  Jam 41 

Pear  Preserves 42 

Citron  or  Melon  Preserves 43 

Pear  and  Plum  Jam 46 

Sugared  Quinces 46 

APPLE   BUTTER,  ETC. 

Apple  Butter 47 

Dried  Apple  Butter 47 

Tomato  Butter 47 

ON  VINEGAR. 

To  Make  Vinegar 49~59 

To  Test  Vinegar 48 

PICKLES. 

Formula  for  Pickles 50 

Sweet  Pickles 50,  51 

Cucumbers  Canned 51 

Pickled  String  Beans 52 

Watermelon  Pickles 52 

Citron  Pickles 52 

Tomato  Pickles 53 

Green  Tomato  Pickles 53 

To  Salt  Cucumbers 53 

Pickled  Onions 54 

Mixed  Pickles 60 

Pickled  Grapes 60  j 


PICKLES —  Continued. 

Fruit  Pickles 6c 

Pickled  Plums 6a 

Pickled  Pears 62 

Spanish  Pickles 63 

Pickled  Walnuts 63 

Pickled  Limes  or  Lemons 64 

Cantaloupe  Pickles 64 

Pickled  Berries 64 

About  Pickles  and  Catsup 65 

CHOW-CHOW,  PEPPER  SAUCE. 

Mangoes  or  Peppers 53 

Chow-chow 54 

Pepper  Sauce 55 

CATSUP,  SPICED  FRUIT,  ETC. 

Spiced  Vinegar  for  Fruit 50 

Tomato  Catsup 55 

Currant  Catsup 56 

Spiced  Currants 56 

Mushroom  Catsup 56 

Chilli  Sauce 56 

Cold  Catsup 57 

FRUIT  JUICES,  WINES   AND 
BEVERAGES. 

To  Filter  Juices  and  Syrups 68 

To  Prevent  Cider  and  other  Liquids 

from  Fermenting 75 

To  Make  Fruit  Juices,  Wines  and 

Beverages 68-81  "• 

45  Formulas. 

FRESH   FRUITS. 

How  to  Prepare  and  Serve  Fresh 

Fruits 82-90 

26  Formulas. 

COOKED   FRUITS. 

To  Cook  All  Kinds  of  Fruits. .  .93-101 
34  Formulas. 


Classified  Index. 


521 


KITCHEN,  PANTRY,  ETC. 
The   Kitchen— The   Pantry— The 

Refrigerator — The  Cellar,  107-117 

MARKETING. 

Good  Points  in  Meat— Beef— Veal 
—  Lamb  —  Mutton  —  Pork — 
Poultry— Fish— Vegetables- 
Fruit 118-130 

ETIQUETTE  OF  DINNERS. 
The  proper  etiquette  to  be  observed 
— The  training  of  servants — 
Forms  of  invitation — The  din- 
ner— Entertainment  of  guests 
— Forms  of  menus 131-139 

THE    ETIQUETTE    OF   VARI- 
OUS  ENTERTAINMENTS. 
Large  Breakfasts :  The  recognized 
hours — The  toilet — The  prop- 
er place   to   give  it — To  lay 
table  and  arrange  dining-room 
— The  food  to  be  served  and 
how  to  serve  it — Menu,  or  cor- 
rect bill  of  fare — About  serv- 
ants   140,  141 

The  Family  Breakfast 142 

The  Family  Luncheon 143 

Luncheon  Parties 144 

Afternoon  Receptions 146 

Afternoon  Teas 148 

Gentlemen's  Suppers 150 

Supper  Parties 151 

Evening  Parties 151 

Cinderella  Parties 152 

Card  Parties 152 

Calling  During  Entertainments. . .   153 

New  Year's  Receptions 153 

Wedding  Receptions. 154 

Silver  and  Golden  Weddings 155 

Country  House  Parties 155 


LAYING  AND   SERVING  THE 

TABLE. 

Best  form  of  table — Table  requis- 
ites— On  color  and  lighting — 
Table-cloth  and  other  orna- 
mentation— Service  and  serv- 
ants— Frozen  carafes  and  how 

to  freeze  them 158-163 

Flowers  at  Table 164 

Forms  of  Menus :  English  dinner 
— French  and  English  terms 
— Dinner  a  la  Russe — Amer- 
ican dinner 166-177 

PREPARATION  OF  FOODS. 

Soups 178-191 

46  Formulas. 
Soups  from  Foreign  Chefs. . .  .192-198 

28  Formulas. 
Fish  and  Meat  Sauces 199-205 

30  Formulas. 
Sauces  from  Foreign  Chefs 206-212 

23  Formulas. 

Garnishes 213 

Garnishes  from  Foreign  Chefs,  214-216 

9  Formulas. 
Forcemeats 217,  218 

6  Formulas. 
Fish 219-223 

19  Formulas. 

Fish  from  Foreign  Chefs 223-227 

15  Formulas. 
Oysters  and  other  Shell-fish. .  .228-232 

20  Formulas. 

Shell-fish  from  Foreign  Chefs,  233-236 

13  Formulas. 
Game,  Frogs  and  Terrapin  . . .  237-246 

32  Formulas. 
Poultry 247-249 

13  Formulas. 
Poultry  from  Foreign  Chefs. .  .250-259 

27  Formulas. 


522 


Cooking  and  Housekeeping  Simplified. 


PREPARATION  OF  FOODS — Continued. 
Eggs,  Omelets,  etc 260-266 

20  Formulas. 
Eggs,  etc. ,  from  Foreign  Chefs,  266-268 

8  Formulas. 
Beef 269-275 

24  Formulas. 
Beef  from  Foreign  Chefs 275-280 

1 6  Formulas. 
Veal   281-284 

16  Formulas. 
Veal  from  Foreign  Chefs 285-288 

13  Formulas. 
Lamb  and  Mutton 288-292 

13  Formulas. 
Lamb  from  Foreign  Chefs. . .  .292-297 

1 8  Formulas. 
Pork 297-303 

20  Formulas. 
Hors  d'CEuvres,  Cold 304-306 

11  Formulas. 

Hors  d'CEuvres,  Hot 306-311 

23  Formulas. 
Salades  and  Entremets 312-324 

42  Formulas. 
Potatoes 325-333 

36  Formulas. 

Onions 334,  335 

7  Formulas. 
Tomatoes 335~337 

12  Formulas. 

Cabbage 338-341 

10  Formulas. 
Carrots  and  Turnips 342,  343 

7  Formulas. 
Squash  and  Beets 343,  344 

7  Formulas. 
Parsnips 345,  346 

5  Formulas. 
Corn 346,  347 

7  Formulas. 


PREPARATION  OF  FOODS — Continued. 
Peas 348 

2  Formulas. 

Peas  from  Foreign  Chefs 348-350 

6  Formulas. 
Beans 35O~353 

g  Formulas. 
Asparagus 353,  354 

6  Formulas. 
Cauliflower 355,  356 

6  Formulas. 
Egg  Plant 357,  358 

6  Formulas. 
Mushrooms 358-360 

6  Formulas. 
Celery 360,  361 

5  Formulas. 
Vegetable  Oyster  or  Salsify 362 

3  Formulas. 
Artichokes 363 

3  Formulas. 
Cucumbers 364 

4  Formulas. 

Greens 365-36? 

9  Formulas. 
Hominy  and  Okras 368 

5  Formulas. 

Macaroni  and  Spaghetti 369,  370 

5  Formulas. 
Grains  or  Cereal  Food 37i~377 

19  Formulas. 

Measures  and  Weights 378 

Bread 379-387 

27  Formulas. 
Biscuit,  Rolls,  Muffins,  etc 387-391 

15  Formulas. 
Waffles 391  -394 

13  Formulas. 
French  Recipes 394,  395 

4  Formulas. 
Gingerbread,  Doughnuts,  etc.,  395-400 

27  Formulas. 


Classified  Index. 


523 


PREPARATION  OF  FOODS — Continued. 

Cake 400-407 

39  Formulas. 
Layer  Cakes 408-412 

21  Formulas. 
Coloring  for  Cakes,  etc 412,  413 

3  Formulas. 
Pies 414-426 

47  Formulas. 
Puddings 427-434 

24  Formulas. 
Dumplings 434,  435 

5  Formulas. 

Sauces  for  Puddings 436-441 

29  Formulas. 
Custards  and  Fancy  Desserts,  442-458 

57  Formulas. 
Fancy  Desserts,  French 459-468 

26  Formulas. 

French  Coffee 467 

French  Tea 467 

French  Chocolate 468 

Ice  Cream  and  Water  Ices  . .  .469-472 

1 6  Formulas. 
Ice  Cream,  etc.,  French 472-475 

6  Formulas. 


PREPARATION  OF  FOODS — Continued. 

Candies 476-482 

33  Formulas. 

Food  for  the  Sick  :  Gruels— Milk 
Diet — Jellies  and  Desserts — 
Custards  and  Puddings — Beef 
Tea  and  Broth — Toast. .  .483-492 

Proper  Food  for  Infants 493-496 

Food  for  Young  Children 497 

Milk,  Cream  and  Butter 498-501 

HINTS  TO   HOUSEKEEPERS: 
Medicinal    Properties  in  Foods — 
Practical  Hints  Regarding 
Health 502-509 

LIGHTNING  FRUIT  PROCESS- 
OR AND  COOKER  : 
The  Most  Economical  and  Rapid 
Fruit  Processor,  Sterilizer  and 
Cooker  ever  Invented — Why 
it  is  Superior  to  All  Other 
Steamers — The  Main  Reason 
why  its  Value  is  Inestimable 
to  All  Housekeepers  —  The 
Book  that  is  Supplied  with  it 
— Its  Small  Cost  and  its  Great 
Accomplishments 510-518 


THE  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Santa  Barbara 


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